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THE  EXPEDITIONS  OF 

John  Charles 
Fremont 


VOLUME  1 

Travels  from  1838  to  1844 

EDITED  BY 
DONALD  JACKSON  AND  MARY  LEE  SPENCE 


$22.50 

THE  EXPEDITIONS  OF 

John  Charles  Fremont 

Volume  1 :  Travels  from  1838  to  1844 
and  Map  Portfolio 

EDITED   BY   DONALD   JACKSON 

AND   MARY  LEE   SPENCE 

"Railroads  followed  the  lines  of  his  jour- 
neyings — a  nation  followed  his  maps  to 
their  resting  place — and  cities  have  risen 
on  the  ashes  of  his  lonely  campfires,"  wrote 
Jessie  Benton  Fremont  after  the  death  of 
her  husband.  She  was  speaking  of  a  man 
whose  exploits,  commendable  and  other- 
wise, made  him  one  of  the  best-known  fig- 
ures of  the  last  century. 

John  Charles  Fremont  (1813-90)  ex- 
plored the  American  West  at  a  time  when 
thousands  of  migrants  were  hungry  for  in- 
formation, and  thus  became — with  the 
possible  exception  of  Lewis  and  Clark — 
the  most  acclaimed  traveler  of  the  nine- 
teenth century  in  the  lands  beyond  the 
Missouri  River.  He  married  the  daughter 
of  a  powerful  western  senator,  Thomas 
Hart  Benton,  and  added  the  advantages  of 
family  influence  to  his  own  store  of  in- 
genuity, endurance,  and  courage. 

Fremont's  expeditions  across  the  plains 
and  Rockies  added  much  to  the  nation's 
growing  body  of  knowledge  about  the 
West.  They  also  served  to  involve  him  in 
politics  and  high  finance,  where  he  was  far 
from  successful.  He  was  the  first  presi- 
dential candidate  of  the  new  Republican 
Party  in  1856,  losing  the  race  to  Buchanan. 
He  made  a  fortune  by  developing  gold 
mines  in  California,  only  to  see  it  slip 
away  in  dubious  financial  schemes  after 
the  Civil  War.  He  played  a  major  role  in 
the  conquest  of  California,  then  was  court- 
martialed  for  his  early  failure  to  recognize 
Stephen  Watts  Kearny  as  governor.  His 

(Continued  on  bacl^  flap) 


THE    EXPEDITIONS    OF 

John  Charles  Fremont 


John  Charles  Fremont  as  he  looked  about   1849.  From  a   print  in 
Walter  Colton's  Three  Years  in  California  (New  York,  1850). 


THE  EXPEDITIONS  OF 

John  Charles 
Fremont 


VOLUME  1 

Travels  from  1838  to  1844 

EDITED    BY 

DONALD  JACKSON  AND  MARY  LEE  SPENCE 


UNIVERSITY   OF    ILLINOIS    PRESS 
URBANA,   CHICAGO,   AND   LONDON 


THE    EXPEDITIONS    OF 

John  Charles  Fremont 

ADVISORY  COMMITTEE 

Allan  Nevins  (chairman) 

Herman  R.  Friis 

Robert  W.  Johannsen 

Dale  L.  Morgan 


©  1970  by  the  Board  of  Trustees  of  the  University  of  Illinois. 

Manufactured  in  the  United  States  of  America. 

Library  of  Congress  Catalog  Card  No.  73-100374. 

252  00086  2 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 


The  preparation  of  the  first  volume  and  Map  PortfoUo  of  Fremont's 
travels  began  in  1965.  Since  then  the  editors  have  solicited  advice  and 
assistance  from  scores  of  persons  and  institutions  all  over  the  United 
States— and  a  few  abroad.  To  each  we  are  profoundly  grateful,  but 
we  must  be  content  to  name  specifically  only  those  institutions 
which  provided  funds  for  research  and  publication. 

The  National  Historical  Publications  Commission  gave  its  early 
endorsement  to  the  undertaking,  and  provided  not  only  search  facil- 
ities in  the  National  Archives  but  also  funds  for  the  payment  of 
wages.  The  Research  Board  of  the  University  of  Illinois  gave  gener- 
ously, as  always,  for  the  cost  of  wages,  travel,  photocopies,  and  other 
necessities.  The  University  of  Illinois  Press,  going  beyond  its  tradi- 
tional role  as  publisher,  became  an  actual  sponsor  of  the  project, 
providing  released  time  for  the  senior  editor,  office  space  for  both 
editors,  and  other  considerations. 

We  are  also  grateful  to  Miss  Jessie  Benton  Fremont,  of  Washing- 
ton, D.C.,  the  granddaughter  of  John  Charles  Fremont,  for  repre- 
senting the  family  in  granting  us  permission  to  use  certain  papers 
not  in  government  repositories. 

30  June  1970 

Donald  Jackson 

Mary  Lee  Spence 


vn 


CONTENTS 


Introduction  ^^^^ 

Symbols  xliii 

Early  Years  and  the  1842  Expedition  to  South  Pass 

1.  J.  J.  ABERT  to  FREMONT,  1 6  APRIL  1 838  3 

2.  EXCERPT  FROM  THE  M^Wo/r/,  [1838]  4 

3.  FREMONT  TO  MRS.  ANN  B.  HALE,  6  JUNE   1 838  10 

4.  FREMONT  TO  JOEL  R.  POINSETT,  8  JUNE   1838  12 

5.  EXCERPT  FROM  THE  Mcmoirs,  [1838]  13 

6.  FREMONT  TO  HENRY  H.  SIBLEY,  16  JULY  1 838  20 

7.  FREMONT  TO  JOEL  R.  POINSETT,  5  SEPT.   1 838  21 

8.  J.J.  ABERT  TO  PRATTE,  CHOUTEAU  AND  COMPANY, 

18  OCT.  1838  25 

9.  FRAGMENT  OF  A  FREMONT  JOURNAL,  [22-26  OCT.  1838]  25 

10.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,  26  OCT.   1838  28 

11.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  PRATTE,  CHOUTEAU  AND  COMPANY, 

12  NOV.  1838  28 

12.  JOSEPH  N.  NICOLLET  TO  F.  R.  HASSLER,  26  DEC.   1 838  3O 

13.  FINANCIAL  RECORDS,   1838  3^ 

14.  FREMONT  TO  J.  J.  ABERT,   I   JAN.   1839  44 

15.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,  4  JAN.   1839  44 

16.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,  2  MARCH   1839  45 

17.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  PRATTE,  CHOUTEAU  AND  COMPANY, 

2  MARCH  1839  4" 

18.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  JOSEPH  N.  NICOLLET,  4  MARCH   1 839  47 

19.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,  5  MARCH   1 839  48 

20.  FREMONT  TO  HENRY  H.  SIBLEY,  4  APRIL   1839  48 

21.  GEORGE  M.  BROOKE  TO  FREMONT,  4  APRIL   1839  49 

22.  EXCERPT  FROM  THE  McmoirS,  [1839]  5^ 

23.  FINANCIAL  RECORDS,   1839  69 


IX 


24.  FREMONT  TO  JOEL  R.  POINSETT,  3  JAN.   184O  ^3 

25.  FREMONT  TO  J.  J.  ABERT,   10  NOV.   184O  84 

26.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,   I9  NOV.   184O  85 

27.  FINANCIAL  RECORDS,   184O  ^5 

28.  J.   J.  ABERT  TO  JOEL  R.  POINSETT,  25  JAN.  184I  94 

29.  JOEL  R.  POINSETT  TO  LEVI  WOODBURY,  26  FEB.   1 84 1  95 

30.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,  4  JUNE   184I  9" 

31.  JOSEPH  N.  NICOLLET  TO  FREMONT,   II   JULY  1 84 1  97 

32.  FREMONT  TO  RAMSAY  CROOKS,   12  AUG.   184I  99 

33.  FREMONT  TO  RAMSAY  CROOKS,  I5  SEPT.   184I  100 

34.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,   10  OCT.   184I  lOI 

35.  FERDINAND  H.  GERDES  TO  FREMONT,  J  NOV.   184I  lOI 

36.  FINANCIAL  RECORDS,   1 84 1  IO4 

37.  FREMONT  TO  J.  J.  ABERT,   I4  APRIL   1842,  AND  DES  MOINES 

RIVER  REPORT  115 

38.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,  25  APRIL   1842  121 

39.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,  25  APRIL   1842  122 

40.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,  9  MAY   1842  I23 

41.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,  26  MAY   1842  I23 

42.  CONTRACT  WITH  HONORE  AYOT,  [26  MAY  1842]  I24 

43.  BENJAMIN  CLAPP  TO  ANDREW  DRIPS,  3O  MAY   1 842  I25 

44.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,  8  JULY   1842  I26 

45.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  P.  CHOUTEAU,  JR.,  AND  COMPANY, 

28  JULY  1842  127 

46.  J.J.  ABERT  TO  P.  CHOUTEAU,  JR.,  AND  COMPANY, 

I  AUG.  1842  128 

47.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,   I3  AUG.   1842  I28 

48.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,   16  NOV.   1842  I28 

49.  JOHN  TORREY  TO  ASA  GRAY,  1 8  NOV.   1 842  1 30 

50.  FREMONT  TO  JOSEPH  N.  NICOLLET,  27  NOV.   1842  I3I 

51.  ASA  GRAY  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  [5  DEC.  1 842]  133 

52.  FREMONT  TO  J.  C.  EDWARDS,   10  DEC.   1842  134 

53.  FINANCIAL  RECORDS,   1842  13^ 

54.  ASA  GRAY  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  [fEB.  1843]  15^ 

55.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  THOMAS  H.  BENTON,   10  MARCH   1843  159 

56.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,   10  MARCH   1843  160 

57.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  II  MARCH  1843  161 


58.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,   I4  MARCH   1843  ^^4 

59.  THOMAS  H.  BENTON  TO  FREMONT,  20  MARCH   1843  164 

60.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  21   MARCH   1 843  165 

61.  Report  OF  the  first  expedition,  1843  '^^ 

REPORT  169 
catalogue  of  plants  collected  by  lieutenant  FREMONT 

in  his  expedition  to  the  rocky  mountains, 

by  john  torrey  286 

astronomical  observations  312 

meteorological  observations  317 

The  Expedition  of  1843-44  to  Oregon  and  California 

62.  john  torrey  to  asa  gray,  26  march  1 843  34 1 

63.  j.  j.  abert  to  fremont,  22  april  1 843  342 

64.  j.  j.  abert  to  fremont,  2.6  april  1 843  342 

65.  fremont  to  stephen  watts  kearny,  [ca.  8  may  1843]  343 

66.  p.  chouteau,  jr.,  and  company  to  employees  of  the 

company,  10  may  1843  344 

67.  j,  j.  abert  to  fremont,  i5  may  1843  344 

68.  j.  j.  abert  to  fremont,  22  may  1 843  345 

69.  george  engelmann  to  asa  gray,  4  june  1 843  346 

70.  j.  j.  abert  to  robert  campbell,  22  june  1843  347 

71.  j.  j.  abert  to  jessie  benton  fremont,  23  june  1843  349 

72.  j.  j,  abert  to  robert  campbell,  3  july  1 843  350 

73.  j.  j.  abert  to  thomas  h.  benton,  10  july  1843  350 

74.  jessie  benton  fremont  to  adelaide  talbot, 

16  SEPT.  1843  352 

75.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  ROBERT  CAMPBELL,  18  SEPT.   1 843  353 

76.  FREMONT  TO  J.   J.  ABERT,  24  NOV.   1 843  354 

77.  JESSIE  BENTON  FREMONT  TO  ADELAIDE  TALBOT,  3  DEC.   1843  354 

78.  J.   J.  ABERT  TO  ROBERT  CAMPBELL,   I3  DEC.   1843  355 

79.  JESSIE  BENTON  FREMONT  TO  ADELAIDE  TALBOT,   I   FEB.   1844  356 

80.  JESSIE  BENTON  FREMONT  TO  ADELAIDE  TALBOT,  3  MARCH   1844       358 

81.  JESSIE  BENTON  FREMONT  TO  ADELAIDE  TALBOT, 

24  MARCH  1844  360 

82.  JESSIE  BENTON  FREMONT  TO  ADELAIDE  TALBOT,  I5  JUNE   1844  361 

83.  FREMONT  TO  J.  J.  ABERT,  21   AUG.    [1844]  3^^ 


XI 


84.  FREMONT  TO  WILLIAM  WILKINS,  28  AUG.   1844  363 

85.  RUDOLPH  BIRCHER  TO  FREMONT,   I5  SEPT.   1844  365 

86.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,   I5  SEPT.   1 844  366 

87.  ASA  GRAY  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  I  OCT.    [1844]  3^9 

88.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  6  OCT.   1 844  37O 

89.  FREMONT  TO  GEORGE  ENGELMANN,  22  OCT.   1844  37I 

90.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  28  OCT.   1 844  372 

91.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  21  NOV.   1 844  373 

92.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  3  DEC.   1844  374 

93.  GEORGE  ENGELMANN  TO  ASA  GRAY,  6  DEC.   1844  375 

94.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  3O  DEC.   1844  375 

95.  FINANCIAL  RECORDS,   I   JAN.   1843-3I  DEC.   1844  377 

96.  ASA  GRAY  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  SATURDAY  MORNING   [1845]  39I 

97.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,   12  JAN.   1845  39I 

98.  ASA  GRAY  TO  JOHN  TORREY,   [l2  JAN.   1845.'^]  392 

99.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  JOHN  J.  AUDUBON,  22  JAN.   1845  393 

100.  ASA  GRAY  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  28  JAN.    [1845]  394 

101.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  7  FEB.   1845  395 

102.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,   12  FEB.   1845  395 

103.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  26  FEB.   1845  397 

104.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  26  FEB.   1845  398 

105.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,   I  MARCH   1845  399 

106.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,  5  MARCH  1845  399 

107.  FREMONT  TO  GEORGE  TALCOTT,   10  MARCH  1 845  4OO 

108.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,   I3  MARCH    [1845]  4OO 

109.  FREMONT  TO  [eDWARD  M.  KERn],  20  MARCH  1845  4OI 

110.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  23  MARCH   1845  402 

111.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,  25  MARCH   1 845  4O3 

112.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  27  MARCH   1845  4O3 

113.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  3O  MARCH   1 845  404 

114.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  4  APRIL   1845  4O4 

115.  FREMONT  TO  MRS.  TOWNSEND,  4  APRIL   [1845?]  405 

116.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  7  APRIL   1845  406 

117.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  8  APRIL   1845  406 

118.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,   10  APRIL   1845  407 

119.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  BAILEY,   II  APRIL   1845  408 

120.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,   [CA.  I5  APRIL  1845]  409 


XU 


121.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  l8  APRIL   1845  4IO 

122.  FREMONT  TO  STEPHEN  COOPER,  22  APRIL   1845  4II 

123.  ASA  GRAY  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  23  APRIL   [1845]  412 

124.  THOMAS  H.  BENTON  TO   [wiLLIAM  L.  MARCy],  25  APRIL  1845       414 

125.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,  26  APRIL   1845  415 

126.  FREMONT  TO  EDWARD  M.  KERN,   I  MAY   1845  415 

127.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,  2  MAY   1845  416 

128.  CASPAR  WISTAR  TO  T.  HARTLEY  CRAWFORD,  5  MAY   1845  417 

129.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  7  MAY   1 845  418 

130.  FREMONT  TO  J.  J.  ABERT,  9  MAY  1845  419 

131.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,  I4  MAY   1845  420 

132.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  ASBURY  DICKINS,  I4  MAY   1845  421 

133.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,   I4  MAY   1 845  422 

134.  FREMONT  TO  JOHN  TORREY,   18  MAY  1845  423 

135.  FREMONT  TO  ARCHIBALD  CAMPBELL,  22  MAY   1 845  424 

136.  J.  J.  ABERT  TO  FREMONT,  2.6  MAY   1 845  425 

137.  A  REPORT  OF  THE  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION  TO  OREGON  AND 

NORTH  CALIFORNIA  IN  THE  YEARS   1 843-44  426 

APPENDIX   A.    GEOLOGICAL  FORMATIONS  730 

APPENDIX  B.  ORGANIC  REMAINS  744 
APPENDIX   C.    DESCRIPTIONS  OF  SOME  NEW  GENERA  AND 

SPECIES  OF  PLANTS,  COLLECTED  IN  CAPTAIN 

J.  c.  Fremont's  exploring  expedition  to 

OREGON  AND  NORTH  CALIFORNIA,  IN  THE  YEARS 

1843-44:  BY  JOHN  TORREY 

AND  J.  C.  FREMONT  758 

ASTRONOMICAL  OBSERVATIONS  77^ 
METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS  MADE  DURING  THE  JOURNEY        784 

Bibliography  807 

Index  819 


Xlll 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


hot  springs  gate 
devil's  gate 


JOHN  CHARLES  FREMONT  H 

JESSIE  BENTON  FREMONT  XXXV 

A  LETTER  BY  FREMONT,  IN  HIS  HANDWRITING  xl 
A  LETTER  BY  FREMONT,  IN  THE  HANDWRITING  OF 

JESSIE  BENTON  FREMONT  xll 

CHIMNEY  ROCK  2l6 

FORT  LARAMIE  220 

246 
248 

VIEW  OF  THE  WIND  RIVER  MOUNTAINS  264 

CENTRAL  CHAIN  OF  THE  WIND  RIVER  MOUNTAINS  200 

VIEW  OF  PIKES  PEAK  444 

PASS  OF  THE  STANDING  ROCK  4^^ 

THE  AMERICAN  FALLS  OF  LEWIS  FORK  5^4 

OUTLET  OF  SUBTERRANEAN  RIVER  5^9 

HILL  OF  COLUMNAR  BASALT  ON  THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER  556 

PYRAMID  LAKE  "00 

PASS  IN  THE  SIERRA  NEVADA  OF  CALIFORNIA  636 

FOSSIL  FRESH- WATER  INFUSORIA  FROM  OREGON  74  ^ 

FOSSIL  FERNS,  PLATE  I  747 

FOSSIL  FERNS,  PLATE  2  749 

FOSSIL  SHELLS,  PLATE  3  753 

FOSSIL  SHELLS,  PLATE  4  757 

Prosopis  odorata  7"^ 

Arctomecon  calijornka  7"7 

Fremontia  vermicularis  77^ 

Pinus  monophyllus  775 


XV 


MAPS 


BEAR  RIVER  between  470  and  471 

BEER  SPRINGS  479 

THE  GREAT  SALT  LAKE  507 

RIO  DE  LOS  AMERICANOS  between  662  and  663 


XVI 


INTRODUCTION 


The  career  of  John  Charles  Fremont  was  marred  by  disasters 
large  and  small,  but  his  successes  were  monumental.  His  character 
was  flawed  by  vanity  and  by  hunger  for  recognition  and  financial 
gain,  but  there  was  enough  toughness  of  spirit  to  carry  him  five  times 
across  the  plains  and  Rockies  under  conditions  of  intense  privation, 
leading  bands  of  courageous  men.  In  his  lifetime  some  good  men 
loved  him  and  others  despised  or  mistrusted  him.  Even  today  there 
are  strongly  differing  points  of  view  about  his  motives  and  his 
methods,  but  there  is  less  dispute  about  his  place  in  the  history  of 
his  century. 

Fremont's  activities  in  the  West,  and  his  published  reports,  af- 
fected the  lives  of  thousands  of  migrants  who  plied  the  Oregon  and 
California  trails.  His  success  as  an  explorer,  his  interest  in  politics, 
and  his  marriage  to  the  daughter  of  Senator  Thomas  Hart  Benton 
of  Missouri  made  him  a  familiar  and  sometimes  influential  figure 
in  Washington.  He  played  a  major  role  in  the  conquest  of  Califor- 
nia, only  to  be  court-martialed  for  his  early  failure  to  recognize 
Stephen  Watts  Kearny  as  governor.  He  was  the  first  presidential 
standard  bearer  of  the  newly  formed  Republican  Party  in  1856.  His 
commission  as  major  general  in  the  Civil  War,  and  his  handling  of 
his  two  brief  commands,  involved  him  in  controversy  and  earned 
him  the  disfavor  of  Abraham  Lincoln. 

After  acquiring  great  riches  in  the  development  of  gold  mines  on 
the  Mariposa  grant  in  California,  he  lost  the  Mariposa  and  much  of 
his  wealth  in  financial  schemes  after  the  Civil  War.  At  last  he  was 
surviving  by  means  of  sinecures — such  as  the  governorship  of  Ari- 
zona Territory — and  the  income  from  the  writings  of  his  wife, 
Jessie  Benton  Fremont.  When  he  died  on  13  July  1890  he  was 
nearly  a  pauper.  Fremont's  proudest  legacy  was  what  he  had  done 
before  the  age  of  forty,  exploring  the  West  and  making  it  known — 
through  his  narratives — to  a  nation  hungry  to  know. 


xvii 


These  volumes  will  deal  with  those  first  forty  years  of  his  life,  and 
how  they  affected  the  future  of  the  nation. 

If  one  factor  alone  sets  Fremont  apart  from  his  most  notable  pred- 
ecessors in  the  field  of  U.S.  exploration,  it  is  the  accident  of  time. 
He  was  ready,  and  the  public  was  ready,  to  turn  all  eyes  to  the  West 
and  discover  what  it  had  to  hold  for  the  mass  of  men.  If  Lewis  and 
Clark  had  been  able  to  carry  out  their  travels  under  such  strong 
public  scrutiny,  they,  too,  might  have  been  considered  "dashing 
figures."  They  lacked  the  aid  of  a  blustering  press  agent  such  as 
Thomas  Hart  Benton  (although  having  President  Thomas  Jefferson 
as  a  sponsor  was  not  bad),  but  mainly  they  lacked  an  impatient  pub- 
lic. Their  public  was  curious,  patient,  proud,  but  with  no  thought  in 
1804-6  of  an  Oregon  Trail,  an  ox  team  and  wagon,  or  a  new  life 
waiting  beyond  the  Mississippi  or  the  Rockies. 

Although  time  was  on  Fremont's  side,  and  he  had  strong  sup- 
porters in  Secretary  of  War  Joel  Poinsett  and  Senator  Benton,  he 
brought  attributes  of  his  own  to  the  making  of  the  Fremont  legend. 
He  brought  audacity,  courage,  and  a  quick  mind  which  had  ab- 
sorbed a  good  deal  of  knowledge  in  the  fields  of  natural  history, 
geography,  and  surveying.  He  also  brought  Jessie  into  the  picture — 
a  beautiful  and  talented  girl,  inheritor  of  her  father's  concern  for 
power  and  prestige,  and  with  an  ability  to  write  which  would  pro- 
vide young  Fremont  with  a  lifelong  amanuensis  and  ghost-writer. 

Senator  Benton  aided  the  young  explorer  in  many  ways,  but  no 
one  can  say  that  he  freely  gave  his  daughter  in  marriage;  young  John 
Charles  accomplished  that  on  his  own.  Together,  John  Charles  and 
Jessie  comprised  a  team  such  as  one  does  not  find  again  in  U.S. 
history,  perhaps  until  another  truly  dashing  pair — George  Arm- 
strong Custer  and  his  wife  Elizabeth — appear  upon  the  scene.  And  to 
stretch  the  analogy  just  a  bit,  Charles  and  Anne  Morrow  Lindbergh 
come  to  mind  in  more  recent  times. 

Back  again  to  the  importance  of  the  period,  and  the  social  and 
political  climate  in  which  Fremont  was  to  operate.  It  is  well  known 
that  his  expeditions,  especially  the  first  two,  often  followed  the 
trails  of  other  wagon  trains.  It  is  important,  though,  to  say  some 
wagon  trains,  and  very  early  ones  at  that.  We  present  a  note  (p. 
I73n)  which  indicates  how  really  early  in  the  migration  period  his 
operations  began.  Only  two  emigrant  trains  had  preceded  him:  the 
John  Bartleson  party  to  California  in  1841,  and  the  Elijah  White 
party  to  Oregon  in  1842. 


xvm 


It  is  almost  impossible  to  overstate  the  enthusiasm  with  which  the 
nation  greeted  the  printed  reports  of  the  first  two  western  expedi- 
tions. The  first  publication,  which  in  our  edition  begins  on  p.  168, 
introduced  a  new  kind  of  intelligence  from  the  West:  readable  nar- 
rative combined  with  competent  maps,  both  produced  from  personal 
observation.  But  it  carried  the  reader  only  to  the  Rockies.  It  was  the 
second  report  (p.  426),  with  its  description  of  the  route  via  Laramie, 
Fort  Hall,  and  Walla  Walla  to  the  lush  Oregon  valleys,  then  on 
through  the  length  of  California  and  back  across  the  southwestern 
deserts,  that  made  Fremont's  reputation  secure. 

It  seemed  natural  that  members  of  the  Congress  should  wish  the 
two  reports  issued  as  one  volume,  with  a  single  map  of  the  entire 
area  covered.  The  records  of  Congress  contain  many  a  letter  or 
memorandum  (some  of  which  we  cite)  dealing  with  delays  in  pub- 
lication, changes  in  printing  orders,  urgent  requests  for  copies  before 
they  were  finished.  There  was  a  dispute  in  the  House  over  whether 
members  of  the  previous  Congress,  not  re-elected,  should  receive 
copies — and  the  new  Congress  resolved  that  they  should  not.  And 
there  were  unconfirmed  reports  that  members  of  Congress  or  their 
employees  were  selling  copies  to  the  public. 

The  many  editions  issued  by  trade  publishers  were  not  long  in 
coming.  By  1846,  L.  W.  Hall  in  Syracuse  had  issued  a  version  with 
no  maps  or  illustrations.  At  least  two  Washington  publishers  (Tay- 
lor, Wilde,  &  Co.,  and  H.  Polkinhorn)  published  their  own  editions, 
as  did  H.  E.  Phinney  in  Cooperstown,  N.Y.  Foreign  editions  in- 
cluded those  of  Wiley  &  Putnam,  London,  in  1846,  and  a  German 
version  in  1847. 

The  two  Washington  publishing  houses  which  had  been  awarded 
the  contract  for  the  combined  report  were  Gales  and  Seaton,  printers 
of  the  Daily  National  Intelligencer,  and  Blair  and  Rives,  publishers 
of  the  Congressional  Globe.  Both  of  these  publishers,  having  early 
access  to  the  report,  hastened  to  print  extracts  and  reviews.  The 
Intelligencer,  for  example,  ran  a  total  of  twenty-three  columns  be- 
tween 7  and  26  August  1845.  On  28  August  it  followed  with  three 
columns,  including  an  evaluation  of  the  second  expedition  and  some 
remarks  on  the  third,  which  was  then  in  progress. 

A  laudatory  review  appeared  in  the  July  1845  issue  of  the  United 
States  Magazine  and  Democratic  Review,  in  which  Lewis  and  Clark 
were  compared  unfavorably  to  Fremont: 


XIX 


The  honorary  reward  of  Brevet  Captain  has  been  bestowed  upon  him. 
Lewis  and  Clark  received  something  more  substantial, — double  pay, 
sixteen  hundred  acres  of  land  each,  promotion  to  generals,  appointment 
of  governors,  commission  to  treat  with  Indians,  and  copy-right  in  their 
Journal.  Certainly  as  first  explorers,  they  were  entitled  to  great  merit; 
but  they  lack  the  science  which  Capt.  Fremont  carried  into  his  expedi- 
tions; and,  returning  on  the  same  line  by  which  they  went  out,  their  dis- 
coveries lack  the  breadth  and  variety  which  distinguish  his.  His  work 
was  lacking  [i.e.,  needed]  to  complete  the  view  of  the  great  region  from 
the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific  ocean;  and  it  has  come  at  the  exact  moment 
that  it  was  most  wanted,  and  will  be  most  useful.  Great  events  are  pend- 
ing of  which  Oregon  is  the  subject.  .  .  .  We  assume  to  say  that  the  publi- 
cation of  this  Report  will  increase  the  emigration  to  Oregon,  and  will 
sharpen  the  appetite  of  two  great  nations  [Great  Britain  and  the  U.S.] 
for  the  possession  of  a  river  whose  mouth  happens  to  be  the  only  outlet 
to  the  sea.  .  .  . 

The  reviewer's  allusions  to  Lewis  and  Clark  could  have  profited  by 
a  bit  more  research,  but  his  enthusiasm  for  Fremont  typified  the 
mood  of  the  country. 

Other  great  events  were  to  follow:  the  third  expedition,  resulting 
in  Fremont's  involvement  in  the  conquest  of  California;  his  court- 
martial,  which  did  little  damage  to  his  own  public  image  and  gave 
California  an  untold  wealth  of  publicity;  and  then  the  unsuccessful 
campaign  for  the  presidency. 

Perhaps  the  loss  of  the  election  marked  the  moment  when  the 
bright  star  began  to  fade.  Perhaps  it  was  the  Civil  War,  during 
which  he  proved  to  be  no  military  man.  Somehow  the  years  sped  by, 
riches  came  and  went,  and  at  last  he  was  old.  It  is  certain  that  he  died 
poor,  but  less  certain  that  he  died  entirely  bitter — for  there  were 
bright  memories  to  temper  the  unhappy  ones  and  much  achievement 
mingled  with  his  many  failures.  Among  his  effects  at  the  time  of  his 
death  was  a  scrap  of  paper  bearing  a  poem  he  had  written  near  the 
end  of  his  life  as  he  was  crossing  the  Continental  Divide  on  a  train. 
Part  of  it  reads: 

Long  years  ago  I  wandered  here, 
In  the  midsummer  of  the  year. 

Life's  summer  too. 
A  score  of  horsemen  here  we  rode. 
The  mountain-world  its  glories  showed. 

All  fair  to  view. 


XX 


Now  changed  the  scene,  and  changed  the  eyes 
That  here  once  looked  on  glowing  skies 

When  summer  smiled. 
These  riven  trees  and  wind-swept  plain 
Now  shew  the  winter's  dread  domain — 

Its  fury  wild. 


The  buoyant  hopes  and  busy  life 
Have  ended  all  in  hateful  strife 

And  baffled  aim. 
The  world's  rude  contact  killed  the  rose, 
No  more  its  shining  radiance  shows 

False  roads  to  fame. 


Where  still  some  grand  peaks  mark  the  way 
Touched  by  the  light  of  parting  day 

And  memory's  sun. 
Backward  amid  the  twilight  glow 
Some  lingering  spots  yet  brightly  show 

On  roads  hard  won. 

The  verses  recalled  much,  and  Jessie  saved  them.  Then  she  penned 
a  sentence  of  her  own  which  summed  up  the  labors  of  a  valiant 
traveler  and  the  pride  of  a  devoted  wife.  "Railroads  followed  the 
lines  of  his  journeyings — a  nation  followed  his  maps  to  their  resting 
place — and  cities  have  risen  on  the  ashes  of  his  lonely  campfires 


»'i 


PARENTAGE  AND  EARLY  YEARS 

When  John  Charles  Fremont  was  born,  21  January  1813,  his 
parents  already  had  scandalized  their  community  and  moved  away 
in  disgrace.  The  fact  that  they  never  married  was  to  plague  Fremont 
all  his  life,  but  particularly  during  the  presidential  race  of  1856 


^  The  poem  is  in  the  library  of  the  Southwest  Museum,  Los  Angeles,  and 
Jessie's  quotation  is  from  a  draft  manuscript,  "Great  Events  during  the  Life 
of  Major  General  John  C.  Fremont,"  Bancroft  Library,  Berkeley.  Hereafter, 
libraries  and  other  repositories  will  be  referred  to  by  the  symbols  used  in  the 
National  Union  Catalog  of  the  Library  of  Congress  (see  listing  on  pp. 
xliii-xliv). 

xxi 


when  the  word  "illegitimate"  came  frequently  to  the  lips  of  his 
political  enemies. 

The  father  was  Charles  Fremon,  a  Frenchman  from  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Lyons,  said  to  have  made  his  way  to  Virginia  from  Santo 
Domingo.  One  biographer  says  he  was  on  his  way  to  join  an  aunt  in 
Santo  Domingo,  about  1800,  when  he  was  captured  by  an  English 
man-of-war  and  held  prisoner  for  a  few  years.^  Exactly  when  Fre- 
mon came  to  Virginia  is  not  known,  but  by  the  spring  of  1808  he 
seems  to  have  been  teaching  French  in  the  fashionable  academy 
operated  by  L.  H.  Girardin  and  David  Doyle,  near  Richmond. 
When  he  was  dismissed  after  a  year  on  the  grounds  that  he  was  not 
a  fit  person  to  give  instruction  to  young  ladies,  he  opened  a  night 
school  for  the  French  language  and  tutored  in  private  homes.  He 
later  rejoined  Girardin  at  a  new  location.^ 

By  this  time  he  had  rented  a  small  house  from  John  Pryor  and 
had  soon  alienated  the  affections  of  Mrs.  Pryor,  the  former  Ann 
Beverly  Whiting,  who  was  a  good  deal  younger  than  her  husband. 
One  source  says  the  two  lovers  actually  hoped  for  Pryor's  death  so 
that  they  might  marry.  Richmond  society  was  rocked  by  the  scandal 


^  BiGELow,  11-12.  This  1856  campaign  biography  was  prepared  from  ma- 
terial assembled  by  Jessie.  Some  of  the  problems  she  encountered,  particularly 
with  regard  to  JCF's  mother,  are  reflected  in  letters  to  Elizabeth  Blair  Lee, 
2  July  [1856],  and  to  John  Bigelow,  7  July  [1856],  in  the  Blair-Lee  Papers, 
NjP,  and  Bigelow  Collection,  NN.  Pierre-Georges  Roy,  a  Canadian  archivist, 
believes  that  JCF's  father  was  actually  Louis-Rene  Fremont  of  Quebec,  who 
established  himself  in  Virginia.  See  roy  [1]  and  [2].  It  is  not  clear  when  the 
"t"  was  added  to  the  name;  in  early  newspaper  advertisements  the  father's 
name  is  "Fremon."  In  fact,  receipts  for  French  and  dancing  lessons  in  the 
Wayne-Stites  Anderson  Papers,  GHi,  are  signed  "Jean  Charles  Fremon" 
though  Charles  Fremon  seems  to  have  been  the  common  form.  Young  Fre- 
mont was  variously  called  "J.C.,"  "J.  Charles,"  or  "Charles"  in  his  early  years. 
He  did  not  begin  to  use  the  accented  form  of  "Fremont"  until  he  began  his 
association  with  the  French  scientist  Joseph  N.  Nicollet. 

^  In  an  advertisement  in  the  Richmond  Enquirer  of  8  March  1808,  Girardin 
mentions  "a  well-qualified  native  of  France"  as  his  assistant.  Moncure  Robin- 
son (1802-91),  an  eminent  engineer,  claimed  that  he  studied  French  under 
Charles  Fremon  at  the  College  of  William  and  Mary  (osborne).  It  is  more 
likely  that  he  studied  under  Fremon  at  Girardin's  academy,  which  he  at- 
tended— as  did  also  Thomas  Jefferson's  grandson,  T.  Jefferson  Randolph.  For 
Fremon's  dismissal,  see  letter  of  David  Doyle  to  L.  H.  Girardin  in  the  Vir- 
ginia Patriot,  23  Aug.  1811.  For  Fremon's  proprietorship  of  his  own  school 
and  his  reaffiliation  with  Girardin,  see  advertisements  in  the  Richmond  En- 
quirer, 24,  27,  and  31  Oct.  and  10  and  14  Nov.  1809;  12  June, -27  July,  and  11 
Sept.  1810. 

xxii 


in  July  1811.  Girardin  and  his  current  partner,  John  Wood,  lost  their 
academy  and  feuded  publicly  over  the  responsibility  for  the  hiring 
of  Fremon.  Finally  Mrs.  Pryor  left  her  husband's  bed  and  board 
and  went  with  Fremon  to  Williamsburg,  Norfolk,  and  then  Charles- 
ton. 

In  a  divorce  petition  some  months  later,  Pryor  charged  that  his 
wife  had  left  the  house  voluntarily.  But  Ann  wrote  her  brother-in- 
law  that  she  had  been  "turned  out  of  doors  at  night  and  in  an  ap- 
proaching storm"  and  threatened  with  "the  most  cruel  and  violent 
treatment"  if  she  remained  in  the  house.  She  also  wrote  that  she  and 
Fremon  were  poor,  "but  we  can  be  content  with  little,  for  I  have 
found  that  happiness  consists  not  in  riches."  Pryor's  intention  of 
applying  to  the  Virginia  legislature  for  a  divorce  was  widely  circu- 
lated, and  of  course  Ann  hoped  that  he  would  succeed.  But  the 
House  of  Delegates  rejected  the  petition  13  December  1811  without 
giving  a  reason.'* 

By  the  fall  of  1811,  the  Fremons,  as  we  shall  now  call  the  pair 
although  apparently  they  were  never  able  to  marry,  were  in  Savan- 
nah, Ga.  During  the  next  year  Charles  tried  a  number  of  ways  to 
make  ends  meet:  he  gave  French  lessons,  worked  in  a  dancing 
academy,  took  in  boarders,  opened  his  own  dancing  school,  gave 
cotillion  parties,  and  opened  a  livery  stable  at  his  residence. 

So  it  was  that  John  Charles  Fremont  was  born  into  a  nomadic 


^  John  Pryor  was  a  veteran  officer  of  the  Revolution  who  kept  livery  stables 
in  Richmond  and  gave  the  city  its  first  amusement  resort,  Haymarket  Gar- 
dens. In  1811,  he  was  "far  advanced  in  years,"  according  to  his  divorce 
petition,  and  bigelow,  20,  says  he  was  sixty-two  when  he  married  seventeen- 
year-old  Ann  Whiting  in  1796.  But  he  was  vigorous  enough  to  take  the  field 
against  the  British  in  1813,  and  did  not  die  until  1823  (Richmond  Enquirer, 
9  Feb.  1813,  and  p.  c.  clark).  Ann  Beverly  Whiting  was  the  daughter  of 
the  wealthy  Thomas  Whiting,  a  burgess  for  Gloucester  in  1775-76,  and 
Elizabeth  Sewell.  She  was  born  shortly  before  the  death  of  her  father,  whose 
will  was  dated  15  Oct.  1780.  In  1796,  with  her  "full  consent"  and  that  of  her 
stepfather  and  guardian,  Maj.  Samuel  Carey,  she  was  married  to  Pryor.  See 
BIGELOW,  13-20,  and  Pryor's  manuscript  petition  for  divorce  of  1  Dec.  1811, 
Vi.  For  further  details  of  the  elopement  and  attempted  divorce,  see  letter  of 
John  Wood  to  the  public,  Virginia  Patriot,  26  July  1811;  letter  of  David 
Doyle  to  Girardin,  Patriot,  23  Aug.  1811;  advertisements  by  Wood  and 
Girardin  regarding  their  separation,  Richmond  Enquirer,  12  and  16  July 
1811.  No  surviving  copy  has  been  found  of  a  twenty-eight-page  pamphlet  pub- 
lished by  Girardin,  "pregnant  with  calumny  and  slander"  according  to  Wood. 
Ann's  letter  to  John  Lowry,  28  Aug.  1811,  was  abstracted  by  Pryor  in  support 
of  his  divorce  petition.  For  the  negative  decision  on  the  divorce,  see  Journal 
of  the  Virginia  House  of  Delegates,  181 1-12. 

xxiii 


family  of  unstable  finances  on  21  January  1813.  His  nurse  was  Han- 
nah, a  family  slave  who  had  apparently  been  recovered  after  run- 
ning away  the  previous  year.  We  know  little  about  the  next  few 
years  in  the  life  of  the  family.  They  left  Savannah,  and  a  daughter, 
who  died  in  infancy,  was  born  in  Nashville  in  1814.  From  there  the 
Fremons  apparently  wandered  to  Norfolk,  where  a  second  daugh- 
ter and  a  second  son  were  born  in  1815  and  1817.  After  Charles 
Fremon  died  in  1818,  his  widow  and  her  small  children  stayed  for 
a  time  in  Virginia,  and  John  Charles  received  his  first  schooling 
there.  They  were  in  Charleston  by  1823,  and  in  1826  young  John 
Charles  had  entered  the  law  office  of  John  W.  Mitchell.  Gone  now 
was  the  family  hope  that  he  would  become  an  Episcopal  minister, 
though  in  June  1827  he  was  confirmed  in  St.  Paul's  Church  by 
Bishop  Bowen  for  St.  Philip's  congregation.^ 

The  earliest  Fremont  document  which  has  come  to  our  attention 
derives  from  his  service  with  attorney  Mitchell.  It  is  a  subpoena 
issued  by  Mitchell  to  several  persons  and  given  to  sixteen-year-old 
John  Charles  to  serve.  An  endorsement  on  the  reverse  side  reads: 

J.  C.  Fremont  being  duly  sworn  deponeth  that  he  served  on  the 
within  named  witnesses  personally  this  writ  &  gave  them  tickets — 
except  the  witness  Alphy  Berney  whom  he  could  not  find. 

Sworn  to  before  me  14  July  1828  J.  Charles  Fremont 

J.  W.  Mitchell" 


^  For  sparse  information  about  the  Fremons  during  this  period,  see  ad- 
vertisements in  the  Columbian  Museum  &  Savannah  Advertiser,  3  Oct.  1811, 
and  in  the  Republican  and  Savannah  Evening  Ledger,  7  Dec,  1811;  2  Jan. 
and  31  Oct.  1812;  13  Feb.  1813.  The  assumption  that  the  Fremons  never 
married  is  based  on  the  fact  that  Pryor  did  not  die  until  1823,  five  years 
after  Fremon's  death.  There  is  no  record  that  Pryor  ever  received  his  divorce. 
The  MEMOIRS  and  bigelow  do  not  mention  the  birth  of  a  child  named  Ann  in 
Nashville,  but  see  roy  [1].  bigelow  indicates  that  the  youngest  daughter  (and 
for  him  the  only  daughter)  was  born  in  Nashville.  He  does  not  name  her  or 
the  younger  son.  roy  gives  their  names  as  Elizabeth  and  Thomas-Archibald, 
but  JCF's  letter  to  his  mother  on  8  June  1838  (our  Doc.  No.  3)  refers  to 
"Frank,"  presumably  his  brother. 

A  chronology  of  JCF's  life  in  the  New  York  Times,  21  July  1856,  puts  him 
in  school  in  Virginia  in  1820,  in  school  in  Charleston  in  1823,  and  in  Mitch- 
ell's law  office  in  1826.  His  confirmation  in  St.  Paul's  is  substantiated  by  rec- 
ords inspected  for  us  6  Oct.  1966  by  Sam  T.  Cobb,  rector  of  St.  Philip's. 

^  Subpoena  of  10  July  1828,  in  Mitchell's  hand,  with  JCF's  signature  on  the 
endorsement,  lU. 


XXIV 


Mitchell  apparently  concluded  that  the  pulpit,  rather  than  the 
bar,  might  be  the  better  profession  for  John  Charles  after  all,  and 
took  him  to  the  school  of  J.  Roberton,  who  prepared  boys  for  the 
College  of  Charleston.  It  is  from  Roberton  that  we  have  our  first 
description  of  the  youth.  If  the  memory  of  an  elderly  scholar  some 
twenty-three  years  later  can  be  relied  upon,  he  was  a  boy  of  medium 
size,  "graceful  in  manners,  rather  slender,  but  well  formed,  and 
upon  the  whole,  what  I  would  call  handsome;  of  a  keen,  piercing 
eye,  and  a  noble  forehead  seemingly  the  very  seat  of  genius."  To 
Roberton's  astonishment,  Fremont  within  a  year  had  read  Caesar, 
Nepos,  Sallust,  six  books  of  Virgil,  nearly  all  of  Horace,  two  books  of 
Livy,  Graeca  Minora,  part  of  Graeca  Majora,  and  four  books  of 
Homer's  Iliad.  He  also  made  much  progress  in  mathematics."^ 

Fremont,  who  seems  to  have  continued  working  in  Mitchell's  law 
office  while  reading  the  classics  and  doing  his  calculations,  entered 
the  junior  class  in  the  College  of  Charleston  in  May  1829.  The  col- 
lege records  for  1830  list  him  as  Charles  or  C.  J.  Fremont  in  the 
Scientific  Department.  The  records  also  show  that  he  was  away  dur- 
ing the  first  three  months  of  1830,  "teaching  in  the  country  by 
permission."  He  resumed  his  studies  in  April,  but  as  the  year  ad- 
vanced his  absences  became  frequent  as  he  spent  more  and  more 
time  with  a  Creole  family  who  had  a  beguiling,  black-eyed  daughter 
named  Cecilia.  He  had  fallen  deeply  in  love,  and  though  the  college 
faculty  was  patient  because  of  his  recent  good  scholarship  and  his 
abundant  promise,  he  was  finally  dismissed  5  February  1831  for 
"incorrigible  negligence."  He  missed  graduation  by  three  months. 
But  about  five  years  later  he  applied  to  the  trustees  for  a  B.A.  degree 
and  his  request  was  granted.^ 

That  his  career  seemed  in  jeopardy  was  of  little  concern;  he 
treated  the  period  of  freedom  from  studies  as  a  holiday:  "The  days 


■^ROBERTON,  3-5.  He  does  not  mention  JCF  by  name  but  the  identity  of 
the  student  is  almost  certain;  Roberton  is  quoted  in  bigelow,  the  memoirs, 
and  in  an  item  on  JCF  in  the  New  York  Times,  27  June  1856.  The  Benton 
Papers,  MoSHi,  contain  two  letters  from  Jessie  to  Roberton,  one  of  which 
expresses  the  hope  that  he  will  repeat  his  visits  to  the  Fremonts  and  another 
assuring  him  and  "his  inquiring  friend"  that  JCF  was  born  and  reared  in  the 
Protestant  Episcopal  Church. 

^  For  JCF's  college  record,  see  the  journal  of  the  College  of  Charleston, 
weekly  record,  Jan.  1830-Feb.  1831,  and  for  his  receipt  of  the  B.A.  degree, 
the  journal  of  the  proceedings  of  the  trustees,  19  March  1838,  p.  263.  One  of 
the  trustees  of  the  college  when  JCF  received  his  belated  degree  was  his 
friend  Joel  Poinsett  (easterby,  261). 

XXV 


went  by  on  wings.  In  the  summer  we  [Fremont  and  the  two  boys 
in  the  Creole  family]  ranged  about  in  the  woods,  or  on  the  now 
historic  islands,  gunning  or  picnicking,  the  girls  dangerously  near 
the  breakers  on  the  bar.  I  remember  as  in  a  picture,  seeing  the 
beads  of  perspiration  on  the  forehead  of  my  friend  Henry  as  he 
tugged  frantically  at  his  oar  when  we  had  found  ourselves  one 
day  in  the  suck  of  Drunken  Dick,  a  huge  breaker  that  to  our  eyes 
appeared  monstrous  as  he  threw  his  spray  close  to  the  boat.  For  us 
it  was  really  pull  Dick  pull  Devil." 

Evenings  were  also  spent  with  Cecilia  and  her  brothers,  though 
occasionally  he  absented  himself  to  study  a  work  on  astronomy  or  to 
read  a  chronicle  of  men  "who  had  made  themselves  famous  by 
brave  and  noble  deeds,  or  infamous  by  cruel  and  base  acts."^ 

The  family's  poverty  would  not  permit  Fremont  too  long  a  holi- 
day. He  obtained  positions  as  a  teacher  of  mathematics  in  various 
schools  (including  John  A.  Wooten's  private  school),  and  also  took 
charge  of  an  "Apprentices'  Library,"  a  collection  of  books  with  some 
added  instructional  facilities,  and  labored  as  a  private  surveyor.^" 
The  death  of  his  sister  Elizabeth  in  1832,  and  the  departure  of  his 
brother  to  try  a  career  on  the  stage,  awoke  John  Charles  to  sterner 
realities  and  ended  this  desultory  phase  of  his  life. 

He  now  began  to  come  into  association  with  a  number  of  dis- 
tinguished men.  The  first  to  exert  an  influence  upon  his  career  was 
Joel  Poinsett  (1799-1851),  whose  home  was  on  the  outskirts  of 
Charleston.  Poinsett  had  been  minister  to  Mexico,  and  now  during 
Fremont's  teaching  days  was  a  principal  leader  of  the  Union  men  of 
South  Carolina  in  the  nullification  controversy  of  1830-32.  From 
him,  and  from  Thomas  Hart  Benton  later,  Fremont  imbibed  the 
Unionist  views,  as  opposed  to  sectional  interests,  which  remained 
with  him  all  his  life.  It  was  certainly  through  Poinsett's  influence, 
but  not  with  his  approval,  that  he  obtained  a  civilian  post  as  teacher 
of  mathematics  to  the  midshipmen  on  board  the  U.S.S.  Natchez, 
which  had  been  sent  to  Charleston  to  uphold  the  power  of  the  fed- 
eral government  to  collect  the  tariffs  declared  null  and  void  by  the 
state  of  South  Carolina.  When  compromise  averted  a  possible  out- 
break of  war  between  the  state  and  federal  governments  in  April 
1833,  the  Natchez  returned  to  Hampton  Roads.  The  next  month, 


^  The  period  spent  by  JCF  with  the  Creole  family  is  discussed  in  memoirs, 
20-21. 

^'^  NEViNs,  17;  BENTON  [2];  Ncw  York  Times,  21  July  1856. 


xxvi 


under  the  command  of  Capt.  John  P.  Zantzinger,  she  sailed  with 
Fremont  abroad  for  a  two-year  cruise  in  South  American  waters." 

Fremont,  who  drew  $25.00  a  month  plus  rations,  maintained  that 
the  cruise  had  no  future  bearing  on  his  career,  though  he  "saw  more 
of  the  principal  cities  and  people  than  a  traveller  usually  does."  The 
routine  of  the  ship,  on  which  David  G.  Farragut  was  one  of  the 
lieutenants,  was  broken  by  a  couple  of  duels  while  the  vessel  was 
anchored  off  Rio  de  Janeiro.  In  the  first,  one  of  the  principals  was 
killed;  in  the  other,  Fremont  and  Decatur  Hurst,  the  seconds,  put 
only  powder  in  the  pistols  and  then  rowed  the  duelists  across  the 
bay.  Finding  "a  narrow  strip  of  sandy  beach  about  forty  yards  long 
between  the  water  and  the  mountain,"  they  positioned  their  men 
and  gave  the  word  to  fire.  Of  course  the  men  remained  upright  and 
Fremont  and  Hurst  were  able  to  carry  them  "triumphantly  back  to 
the  ship,  nobody  hurt  and  nobody  wiser."^" 

In  1835,  Congress  provided  for  several  professorships  of  mathe- 
matics in  the  Navy  at  $1,200  a  year.  Fremont  received  such  an  ap- 
pointment on  13  June  1835,  with  pay  retroactive  to  3  March.  When 
the  Natchez  docked  at  New  York,  he  went  home  to  Charleston  and 
wrote  the  following  letter  to  Secretary  of  Navy  Mahlon  Dickerson: 

It  will  not  perhaps  be  unknown  to  you  that,  when  the  U.S.  Ship  Natchez 
arrived  at  New  York,  I  was  attached  to  her  as  Professor  of  Mathematics. 
Immediately  after  information  of  the  passage  of  the  "Navy  Bill"  had  been 
received  on  the  Brazilian  Station,  I  received  from  Commodore  James 
Renshaw — to  whose  ship  the  Natchez,  I  had  been  attached  as  School- 
master from  the  commencement  of  her  cruise — an  appointment  as  "Pro- 
fessor of  Mathematics  in  the  Navy  of  the  United  States,"  bearing  date 
June  13th  1835.  Desirous  of  being  again  ordered  to  sea,  I  am  somewhat 
at  a  loss  to  know  if  you  will  deem  the  above  circumstances  sufficient  for 
that  purpose,  or  whether  references,  with  testimonials  of  character  and 
qualifications,  will  be  thought  previously  requisite.  Should  such  be  the 
case,  I  shall  be  happy  to  forward  them  to  the  Department,  immediately 
on  receiving  a  notification  to  that  effect.  I  should,  however,  suppose  that 
the  fact  of  having  been  appointed  to  my  station  by  Commodore  Renshaw 


11  DNA-45,  muster  roll  of  the  U.S.S.  Natchez,  1833-35,  p.  68. 

12  See  MEMOIRS,  23.  JCF  says  that  Decatur  Hurst  was  a  nephew  of  Com- 
modore Stephen  Decatur  and  later  died  from  wounds  sustained  in  a  duel 
in  Africa,  callahan  lists  a  William  D.  Hurst  but  not  a  Decatur  Hurst.  The 
duelists  were  Robert  P.  Lovell,  Poinsett's  nephew,  and  Enoch  G.  Parrott 
(1815-79),  senior  officer  during  much  of  the  blockade  of  Charleston  in  the 
Civil  War. 


XXVll 


will  be  deemed  sufficient,  and  it  may  not  be  disadvantageous  to  me  to 
state  that  I  received  from  him,  when  the  Natchez  was  on  the  eve  of 
departure,  an  offer  of  being  ordered  to  another  ship  of  the  squadron.  It 
being  to  you,  Sir,  a  matter  of  indifference  to  what  ship  I  am  ordered,  it 
will  not,  I  imagine,  be  considered  out  of  rule  respectfully  to  request  that 
in  the  event  of  being  successful  in  my  application,  I  may  be  attached  to 
the  frigate  United  States,  which  vessel  I  understand  will  be  shortly  sent 
to  the  Mediterranean.  My  situation  not  permitting  me  long  to  remain 
unemployed,  permit  me  to  say,  that,  should  it  entirely  suit  your  con- 
venience, I  would  be  much  gratified  to  be  favored  with  an  early  answer 
to  this  communication.^^ 

Dickerson  acknowledged  Fremont's  request  for  an  appointment, 
saying  that  "When  the  public  interest  shall  require  the  services  of  a 
Professor  of  Mathematics,  it  will  give  me  pleasure  to  recur  to  your 
application."  Impatiently,  Fremont  wrote  again  on  16  January  1836, 
sending  Dickerson  several  enclosures  including  a  testimonial  from 
Captain  Zantzinger.  Again  Dickerson  acknowledged  the  letter  with- 
out offering  much  hope.  But  in  April  he  authorized  Fremont  to  take 
the  examination  for  professor  of  mathematics,  and  sent  him  to 
Baltimore  for  that  purpose.  He  passed  an  examination  conducted  by 
Professors  Edward  C.  Ward  and  P.  I.  Rodriquez,  who  reported: 
"Mr.  J.  C.  Freemont  was  found  qualified,  &  we  take  great  pleasure  in 
stating  that  he  is  a  gentleman  whose  talents  will  be  very  beneficial  to 
the  Midshipmen  of  the  navy."^"* 

That  was  in  June.  By  October  there  still  had  been  no  assignment, 
and  again  Fremont  wrote  to  Dickerson : 

Having  been  informed  that  several  vessels  are  on  the  eve  of  sailing 
from  the  harbors  of  Norfolk  &  New  York  I  have  thought  the  present  a 
fit  opportunity  respectfully  to  request  that  I  may  be  appointed  to  one  of 
them.  Should  it  suit  your  convenience  to  send  me  an  appointment  I 
should  be  much  gratified  to  find  it  for  the  Mediterranean— a  wish  which 
I  am  only  induced  to  express  because  I  understand  no  selections  have  as 
yet  been  made.  A  communication,  with  which  I  had  the  honor  to  be 
favoured  from  yourself  immediately  subsequent  to  having  passed  an 
examination  at  Bake,  informs  me  that  I  shall  be  sent  to  sea  as  soon  as  my 
services  may  be  required.  I  should  in  consequence  not  have  applied  at 


13  JCF  to  Dickerson,  31  Oct.  1835  (MeHi— Fogg  Collection). 

14  Dickerson  to  JCF,  23  April  1836,  DNA-45,  Gen.  Lbk,  22:252;  memo- 
randum of  the  report  of  Ward  and  Rodriquez  on  the  examination  of  profes- 
sors of  mathematics,  3  June  1836,  DNA-45,  Gen.  Lbk,  22:331;  memoirs,  23. 


XXVlll 


present  but  that  I  am  led  to  believe  such  applications  customary  at  the 
times  when  ships  are  being  fitted  out  for  sea.^^ 

Dickerson  annotated  the  letter  by  instructing  his  clerk:  "Inform 
him  that  a  Professor  of  Mathematics  is  already  detailed  for  the 
North  Carolina  but  it  may  be  in  my  power  in  a  short  time  to  assign 
you  duty  in  a  Cruising  Vessel."  He  struck  out  the  words  "probably  in 
a  Ship  destined  to  cruise  on  the  Coast  of  Brazil." 

Not  until  4  April  1837  did  Dickerson  write  Fremont  the  long- 
awaited  orders  to  duty.  "You  will  proceed  to  Boston  and  report  to 
Com.  [John]  Downes  for  duty  as  Professor  of  Mathematics  on  board 
the  U.S.S.  Independence."  But  a  year  and  a  half  of  waiting  had  been 
too  much,  and  the  necessity  of  earning  a  living  had  already  forced 
Fremont  to  seek  other  opportunities.  He  declined  the  appointment.^ 

We  have  been  able  to  trace  in  sketchy  fashion  Fremont's  brief 
naval  career.  More  hazy,  however,  is  his  service  as  a  surveyor  for 
Captain  William  G.  Williams  of  the  U.S.  Corps  of  Topographical 
Engineers,  who  had  been  ordered  to  assist  William  G.  McNeill  in  a 
survey  of  a  route  for  the  projected  Charleston,  Louisville,  and  Cincin- 
nati Railroad.  This  road  would  have  done  much  to  link  the  states 
of  the  West  and  Northwest  with  those  of  the  South.  Leading 
spirits  in  the  enterprise  were  Fremont's  benefactor  Poinsett  and  Rob- 
ert Young  Hayne,  a  prominent  South  Carolina  politician  who  later 
became  president  of  the  railroad  company. 

Fremont  found  the  work  congenial :  "We  were  engaged  in  running 
experimental  lines,  and  the  plotting  of  the  field  notes  sometimes 
kept  us  up  until  midnight.  Our  quarters  were  sometimes  at  a  village 
inn  and  more  frequently  at  some  farmer's  house,  where  milk  and 
honey  and  many  good  things  were  welcome  to  an  appetite  sharp- 
ened by  all  day  labor  on  foot  and  a  tramp  of  several  miles  backward 
and  forward,  morning  ^and  evening.  .  .  .  The  summer  weather  in 
the  mountains  was  fine,  the  cool  water  abundant,  and  the  streams 
lined  with  azaleas.  .  .  .  The  survey  was  a  kind  of  picnic  with  work 
enough  to  give  it  zest,  and  we  were  all  sorry  when  it  was  over 


J»17 


i'^  JCF  to  Dickerson,  19  Oct.  1836,  DNA-45,  Misc.  LR,  No.  69. 

i«  Dickerson  to  JCF,  4  April  1837,  DNA-45,  Letters  to  Officers,  Ships  of 
War,  24:33. 

lUiEMoiRs,  23-24.  See  also  J.  J.  Abert  to  W.  G.  Williams,  17  March  1836, 
DNA-77,  LS,  2:63;  and  the  joint  report  of  the  chief  and  associate  engineers  of 
the  Charleston,  Louisville,  and  Cincinnati  Railroad,  7  Oct.  1837,  Senate  Doc. 
158,  25th  Cong.,  2nd  sess.,  U.S.  Serial  316. 

xxix 


After  the  work  on  the  railroad  survey  was  suspended,  Fremont 
again  was  employed  with  Captain  Williams  as  his  assistant  engi- 
neer in  the  survey  of  the  territory  occupied  by  the  Cherokee  Indians. 
The  land  lay  mainly  in  Georgia,  though  some  cut  across  into  North 
Carolina  and  Tennessee.  Because  the  Cherokees  were  bitterly  op- 
posed to  the  federal  government's  policy  of  transferring  the  major 
tribes  to  the  area  west  of  the  Mississippi  River,  the  War  Department 
felt  that  a  survey  would  aid  military  purposes  if  war  broke  out,  or 
facilitate  the  distribution  of  land  among  the  frontiersmen  if  it  did 
not.  It  was  a  strenuous  survey  of  forest  and  mountain  country  made 
hurriedly  in  mid-winter,  but  here,  Fremont  wrote  many  years  later, 
"I  found  the  path  which  I  was  'destined  to  walk.'  Through  many  of 
the  years  to  come  the  occupation  of  my  prime  of  life  was  to  be 
among  Indians  and  in  waste  places."^^ 

In  December  1837,  Fremont  applied  for  a  commission  in  the  U.S. 
Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers  (Captain  Williams  had  already 
written  a  supporting  letter).  In  February  1838,  Williams  was  in- 
structed to  come  to  Washington  as  soon  as  his  survey  was  completed 
and  to  bring  Fremont  with  him.  In  March,  with  the  job  done,  Fre- 
mont spent  a  few  days  in  Charleston  and  then  proceeded  to  Wash- 
ington. His  friend  Poinsett,  now  Secretary  of  War,  requested  that  the 
twenty-five-year-old  Fremont  be  assigned  as  a  civilian  assistant  to 
the  distinguished  French  scientist  Joseph  Nicolas  Nicollet,  who  was 
about  to  embark  upon  an  examination  of  the  northern  territory  lying 
between  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  rivers.  While  he  was  away  on 
the  first  of  his  two  expeditions  with  Nicollet,  Fremont's  commission 
as  a  lieutenant  in  the  Topographical  Corps  was  approved.^^ 

From  this  point  in  Fremont's  life,  the  documents  tell  the  story. 


^^  MEMOIRS,  50.  It  is  difficult  to  say  just  how  long  ICF  worked  on  the 
Cherokee  survey  in  1837-38,  as  the  documents  are  few.  Some  of  the  field 
notebooks  in  which  he  kept  his  raw  surveying  data  are  in  DNA-77,  and 
there  is  one  voucher  which  may  not  cover  his  complete  service.  Dated  19  April 
1838,  it  lists  payment  for  "Salary  as  Asst.  Engr.  in  the  Cherokee  Nation  N.C. 
&c.  for  43  days,  viz.  from  the  6th  March  to  the  18th  April  1838  inclusively 
at  $1200.00  per  annum,  $141.04."  It  appears  to  have  been  JCF's  final  payment, 
but  may  not  have  been  the  only  one.  DNA-217,  Records  of  the  Third  Auditor, 
Acct.  No.  3649,  Voucher  No.  158. 

^^  The  foregoing  summary  of  ICF's  early  years  is  not  intended  as  a  com- 
plete biography.  For  a  more  detailed  account  of  this  period,  see  nevins,  1-28. 


XXX 


THE  DOCUMENTS  AND  THE  PROJECT 

"It  is  not  a  cheerful  task,  that  of  going  over  and  destroying  old 
letters  and  papers,  but  it  is  better  than  having  them  get  into  wrong 
hands.  ...  I  will  be  thankful  when  I  am  all  through  with  it  for  it 
is  very  hard  to  burn  up  the  letters  of  those  we  love."^^  So  wrote  Fre- 
mont's daughter  Elizabeth  in  1907  as  she  pillaged  what  was  left  of 
her  parents'  literary  remains.  It  is  an  old  story,  and  a  source  of  an- 
guish to  the  historian.  But  papers  tend  to  survive  all  their  natural 
enemies:  not  only  fire,  flood,  and  mildew  but  the  busy  destructive- 
ness  of  descendants.  And  so  public  a  figure  as  Fremont  must  of 
necessity  lodge  a  great  many  documents  in  relatively  safe  places. 

Of  the  mauscript  materials  available  to  the  student  of  Fremont 
and  his  times,  most  are  in  the  National  Archives  and  the  Library  of 
Congress.  Of  the  several  smaller  collections  elsewhere,  a  few  were 
placed  in  the  public  trust  by  members  of  the  family.  There  are,  as 
far  as  we  can  discern,  no  papers  of  John  Charles  or  Jessie  Benton 
Fremont  still  in  family  hands,  but  there  are  many  in  private  collec- 
tions. All  these  sources — the  public  repositories  and  private  holdings 
— have  been  searched  as  thoroughly  as  possible  for  what  is  substan- 
tial and  informative.  A  man  with  as  many  business,  political,  and 
military  interests  as  Fremont  could  not  avoid  producing  much  trivia. 
No  sensible  editor  would  undertake  a  complete  edition  of  Fremont 
papers.  He  would  seize  most  gratefully  upon  every  shred  which 
bears  upon  the  expeditions  of  1838-54,  for  such  documents  are  not 
plentiful.  For  other  activities  of  Fremont,  however,  he  would  find  it 
necessary  to  be  selective — even  in  regard  to  such  vital  events  as  the 
Bear  Flag  Revolt. 

In  this  series  we  combine  unpublished  manuscript  materials  with 
Fremont's  published  reports  and  selections  from  his  Memoirs.  The 
previously  published  works  have  never  been  thoroughly  annotated, 
and  the  hitherto  unpublished  letters  and  documents  provide  much 
new  material  for  such  annotation. 

The  published  documents  upon  which  Fremont's  reputation  came 
to  rest  in  his  own  lifetime  are  here  listed  chronologically.  Joseph  N. 
Nicollet's  map,  but  not  the  Report,  is  included,  and  both  are  dis- 


-°  Elizabeth   Benton   Fremont  to   Sarah   McDowell    Preston,   6   Aug.    1907 
(KyU — Preston  Family  Papers). 


XXXI 


cussed  elsewhere  as  a  factor  in  Fremont's  development  as  an  explorer 
and  scientific  observer. 

1.  Northern  Boundary  of  Missouri,  H.R.  Doc.  38,  27th  Cong.,  3rd 
sess.,  U.S.  Serial  420.  A  report  of  Fremont's  explorations  of  the  Des 
Moines  River,  as  high  as  the  Raccoon  Fork,  in  1841.  The  manuscript 
version  is  used  as  a  text  in  the  present  volume. 

2.  A  Report  on  an  Exploration  of  the  Country  Lying  between  the 
Missouri  River  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the  Line  of  the  Kansas 
and  Great  Platte  Rivers,  Sen.  Doc.  243,  27th  Cong.,  3rd  sess.,  U.S. 
Serial  416. 

3.  Report  of  the  Exploring  Expedition  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  in 
the  Year  1842,  and  to  Oregon  and  North  California  in  the  Years 
1843-44,  Sen.  Exec.  Doc.  174,  28th  Cong.,  2nd  sess.,  U.S.  Serial  461. 

4.  Message  of  the  President  of  the  United  States  Communicating 
the  Proceedings  of  the  Court  Martial  in  the  Trial  of  Lieutenant 
Colonel  Fremont,  Sen.  Exec.  Doc.  33,  30th  Cong.,  1st  sess.,  U.S. 
Serial  507. 

5.  Geographical  Memoir  upon  Upper  California,  in  Illustration  of 
His  Map  of  Oregon  and  California,  Sen.  Misc.  Doc.  148,  30th  Cong., 
1st  sess.,  U.S.  Serial  511. 

6.  Memoirs  of  My  Life,  vol.  1  (no  others  issued),  Chicago  and 
New  York,  1887.  Originally  published  in  ten  parts  in  paper  wrap- 
pers. 

Unfortunately  the  Memoirs  carry  the  story  of  Fremont's  life  only 
to  1847 — through  the  conquest  of  California  and  his  appointment 
by  Robert  F.  Stockton  as  governor  of  that  territory.  "I  close  the 
page,"  he  wrote,  "because  my  path  of  life  led  out  from  among  the 
grand  and  lovely  features  of  nature,  and  its  pure  and  wholesome  air, 
into  the  poisoned  atmosphere  and  jarring  circumstances  of  conflict 
among  men,  made  subtle  and  malignant  by  clashing  interests."  The 
principal  events  of  his  remaining  forty-three  years  of  life  his  wife 
tried  to  chronicle,  often  with  a  view  also  to  justifying  his  sometimes 
controversial  decisions  and  behavior,  in  "Great  Events  during  the 
Life  of  Major  General  John  C.  Fremont."  Intended  as  a  sequel  to  the 
Memoirs,  the  manuscript  was  never  published. 

Although  the  publication  of  the  Memoirs,  which  draws  at  times 
verbatim  on  the  official  Reports  of  his  first  two  expeditions,  was  un- 
doubtedly prompted  by  economic  necessity,  a  book  recounting  his 
daring  and  colorful  achievements  had  long  been  envisioned.  Theo- 
dore Talbot,  about  to  set  out  in  1845  on  the  third  expedition,  wrote 


xxxn 


to  his  mother  that  "Capt.  Fremont  intends  pubHshing  his  3  reports, 
the  two  previous  and  the  coming  one,  in  one  large  and  handsomely 
illustrated  volume.""^  At  one  time,  too,  according  to  Mrs.  Fremont, 
her  husband  and  Senator  Benton  conceived  a  joint  editorship  of  the 
letters  written  by,  to,  and  about  Fremont  from  1842  to  1854,  but 
many  of  the  letters  were  burned  in  the  fire  that  destroyed  Benton's 
home  in  February  1855."" 

Fremont  had  long  been  conscious  of  Baron  Alexander  von  Hum- 
boldt's wish  for  "truth  in  representing  nature,"  and  as  early  as  1842 
had  attempted  to  record  his  explorations  photographically.  On  both 
the  first  and  second  expeditions  he  had  carried  daguerreotype 
cameras,  and  though  he  was  unable  to  use  them  successfully  they  do 
represent  the  first  instances  of  the  employment  of  a  camera  on  west- 
ern expeditions  sent  out  by  the  government.  Edward  M,  Kern  accom- 
panied the  third  expedition  as  an  artist  and  on  the  fifth  Solomon 
Nunes  Carvalho,  an  authority  in  the  whole  field  of  photography 
and  daguerreotyping,  spent  hours  making  "views."  Carvalho's  plates 
survived  the  storms  of  the  Sierras  and  the  perils  of  an  ocean  voyage 
and  were  brought  back  by  Fremont  to  New  York,  where  Mathew 
Brady  was  engaged  to  copy  them  by  the  wet  process  so  that  paper 
prints  could  be  made.  The  paper  prints,  in  turn,  were  used  as  copy 
by  artists  and  engravers  in  preparing  plates  to  illustrate  Fremont's 
proposed  book;  for  he  now  entered  into  a  contract  with  George 
Childs  of  Philadelphia  to  bring  out  the  journals  of  the  various  ex- 
peditions as  a  companion  book  of  American  travel  to  the  Arctic 
journeys  of  Dr.  Elisha  Kent  Kane,  then  being  published  so  profitably 
by  the  same  house.  The  campaign  of  1856  interrupted  the  work.^^ 

Soon  after  the  election,  work  on  the  proposed  book  was  begun 
again,  and  Jessie  wrote  Ehzabeth  Blair  Lee:  "Say  to  your  Father  that 
the  election  looks  ages  back  now  that  we  are  so  interested  in  the 
book  and  if  he  could  see  the  beautiful  pictures  that  are  growing  un- 
der Mr.  [James]  Hamilton's  brush  he  would  like  us  turn  his  back 
on  the  'busy  world'  &  fly  to  the  mountains  on  canvas."  In  April  she 
wrote  Mrs.  Lee,  "The  book  grows  finely — not  the  text  yet  but  the  il- 
lustrations and  all  the  preparatory  work."  And  in  May,  Mrs.  Blair  re- 


21  Theodore  Talbot  to  Adelaide  Talbot  fSt.  Louis],  30  May  1845  (DLC— 
Talbot  Papers). 

22  Jessie   B.  Fremont   to   R.    [U.?]    Johnson,   Los   Angeles,   28   Aug.    1890 
(James  S.  Copley  Collection,  La  Jolla,  Calif.). 

23 


MEMOIRS,  XVI. 


XXXlll 


ceived  the  following  note:  "We  are  at  work  on  the  book  which  is 
our  baby  and  pet — the  summer  plans  are  not  fairly  fixed  as  yet,  we 
keep  this  house  by  the  month  for  the  convenience  of  having  the 
artists  work  under  Mr.  Fremont's  supervision.  They  have  Lizzie's 
former  bedroom  &  have  made  a  grand  collection  of  oily  rags  and 
bad  smelling  bottles  and  paints  but  the  results  are  beautiful.  Frank  & 
Mr.  Fremont  grow  young  together  over  imaginary  buffalo  hunts 
located  in  certain  valleys  which  look  out  upon  them  like  nature 
from  the  canvas." 

On  the  same  day  in  May  she  wrote  Lizzie  Lee,  "All  the  astro- 
nomical &  tedious  part  of  the  work  is  now  finished  as  far  as  Mr.  Fre- 
mont goes  into  it."  A  bit  later  she  wrote,  "Jacob  [presumably  Jacob 
Dodson,  the  Negro  who  had  been  JCF's  servant  on  the  1845  expedi- 
tion] came  on  with  me  &  I  have  had  my  pen  in  hand  as  much  as 
five  hours  &  a  half  at  a  time — We  finish  with  him  today — that  much 
work  is  done."^^ 

But  the  writing  was  interrupted  by  Fremont's  going  to  Califor- 
nia and  Jessie  to  Europe.  After  the  return  of  both  in  the  late  fall  of 
1857,  another  attempt  was  made  at  writing,  but  soon  all  the  Fre- 
monts  were  packing  for  California  and  the  Mariposa.  And  while 
Jessie  hoped  "that  Mr.  Fremont  will  write  as  well  as  direct  his  work 
there,"  the  book  was  not  finished,  the  contract  was  canceled,  and 
George  Childs  had  to  be  reimbursed  for  all  the  expenditures  he  had 
made.  The  Civil  War  and  the  business  schemes  following  it  gave  no 
leisure  for  writing. 


25 


^^  See  letters  of  Jessie  B.  Fremont  to  Elizabeth  Blair  Lee,  Thursday  night 
[1857?],  7  April  1857,  4  May  [1857?],  2  [June?]  1857,  and  to  Mrs.  Blair, 
4  May  1857,  all  in  NjP— Blair-Lee  Papers. 

25  Jessie  B.  Fremont  to  Elizabeth  Blair  Lee,  15  Dec.  [1857?].  JCF  gave 
George  Childs  notes  as  a  guaranty  that  he  would  be  paid  for  the  expenditures 
on  the  book,  and  on  9  Feb.  1864  Childs  sought  the  aid  of  Maj.  Simon  Ste- 
vens to  obtain  an  early  settlement  of  the  notes.  Childs  wrote,  "I  hope  you  are 
arranging  the  Fremont  matter  so  that  I  can  surely  get  the  balance  next  week. 
Impress  upon  the  General  that  it  is  of  vital  importance  for  me  to  have  the 
amount  this  month"  (PPAmP).  Childs  eventually  sold  the  notes  to  Drexels 
(see  George  W.  Childs  to  [Simon  Stevens],  Philadelphia,  20  Jan.  1865,  NHi). 

So  common  was  the  knowledge  that  Fremont  was  preparing  a  book  that 
Gouverneur  Warren,  in  his  Memoir  to  Accompany  the  Map  of  the  Territory 
of  the  United  States  from  the  Mississippi  River  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  at  p.  50 
noted:  "In  press  [1859]  Colonel  J.  C.  Fremont's  Explorations,  prepared  by 
the  author,  and  embracing  all  his  expeditions.  — Childs  &  Peterson,  publishers. 
No.  602  Arch  Street,  Philadelphia." 


xxxiv 


Jessie  Benton  Fremont,  from  the  portrait  by  T.  Buchanan  Read 
Courtesy  of  the  Southwest  Museum 


XXXV 


When  the  Fremonts  left  for  Arizona  in  1878,  the  boxes  containing 
materials  for  the  books  were  placed  in  safes  below  the  pavement  at 
Morrell's  and  were  thus  saved  when  fire  destroyed  that  warehouse 
and  the  many  other  Fremont  treasures  stored  in  it.  In  1886,  perhaps 
inspired  by  the  success  of  General  Grant's  Personal  Memoirs,  work 
was  resumed.  The  Fremonts  took  a  house  in  Washington  so  that 
Mrs.  Fremont  could  use  the  facilities  of  the  Library  of  Congress,  and 
her  daughter  Lily  typed  copy.  Fire  at  the  publishers,  Belford  and 
Clark  and  Co.,  once  more  threatened  the  book,  but  the  plates  were 
not  destroyed  and  publication  was  delayed  only  a  few  weeks.  Com- 
mercially the  work  was  a  disappointment,  but  after  Fremont's  death, 
Jessie — with  the  aid  of  her  son  Frank — continued  what  she  hoped 
would  constitute  the  second  volume  of  the  Memoirs.  She  wrote  Mrs. 
George  Browne,  "I  have  such  fine  offers,  which  will  complete  the 
General's  work,  make  money  for  Lil  and  give  me  a  living  object."^^ 

Such  is  the  long  history  of  the  making  of  the  Memoirs. 

In  many  ways,  an  edition  of  Fremont's  papers  is  not  a  documenta- 
tion of  the  man,  but  rather  of  the  events  in  vvhich  he  participated. 
Occasionally  we  draw  from  the  journals  and  letters  of  other  partici- 
pants in  these  events.  The  disastrous  fourth  expedition  of  1848,  for 
example,  could  not  be  thoroughly  presented  in  any  other  fashion. 
And  the  letters  of  Jessie  Benton  Fremont  are  often  more  important 
than  those  of  her  husband  in  illuminating  the  Fremont  legend.  In- 
deed it  may  be  said  that  because  so  many  of  Fremont's  letters  were 
composed  and  set  to  paper  by  Jessie,  the  documentary  history  of 
these  two  persons  is  but  a  single  subject  of  study. 

ON  THE  ANNOTATION  OF  BOTANICAL  MATTERS 

The  historical  editor  is  taxed  to  make  a  meaningful  contribution 
to  the  botanical  aspects  of  an  expedition.  He  cannot  tell  the  sys- 
tematic botanist  anything — indeed,  must  turn  to  him  for  counsel — 
and  can  give  little  aid  to  the  untrained  reader.  As  a  minimum,  he 
can  attempt  to  give  a  recent  scientific  name,  and  perhaps  a  com- 
monly accepted  colloquial  name,  to  the  plants  enumerated  in  the 
text. 


2^  Jessie  Benton  Fremont  to  Nell,  Los  Angeles,  27  Jan.  1891   (CU-B — Fre- 
mont Papers). 


xxxvi 


Even  this  modest  assignment  becomes  difficult.  Taxonomists  are 
continually  producing  new  combinations,  referring  plants  to  new 
genera,  with  the  result  that  many  possibilities  confront  the  editor 
who  is  looking  for  the  "correct"  modern  designation.  The  task  is 
made  harder  by  the  fact  that  collectors  of  an  earlier  day,  and  even 
the  scientists  who  analyzed  their  findings,  followed  no  stabilized 
pattern.  "For  want  of  anything  better  the  men  in  the  field  employed 
descriptive  phrases  or  had  recourse  to  colloquial  names;  misapplied 
the  Latin  names  of  plants  with  which  they  were  familiar  to  others 
which  to  them  appeared  to  be  the  same;  employed  Latin  epithets 
(at  times  misspelled)  which  subsequently,  because  of  priority  or 
other  rulings,  came  to  be  regarded  as  synonyms"  (mc  kelvey, 
1097). 

After  bringing  our  own  mediocre  botanical  knowledge  to  bear  on 
JCF's  narrative,  we  turned  for  expert  counsel  to  Professor  Joseph 
Ewan,  Tulane  University,  and  his  able  research  assistant,  Nesta 
Dunn  Ewan.  These  two  were  able  to  solve  many  of  the  problems 
that  had  puzzled  us,  and  our  gratitude  to  them  is  sincere  and  sub- 
stantial. Because  we  turned  to  them  while  they  were  researching  at 
the  Royal  Botanic  Gardens,  Kew,  England,  far  from  such  resources 
as  were  available  for  the  writing  of  Professor  Ewan's  Rocky  Moun- 
tain Naturalists  (Denver,  Colo.,  1950),  and  other  works  on  Ameri- 
can botany,  our  request  was  all  the  more  inconvenient. 

When  JCF's  mention  of  a  plant  by  common  or  scientific  name  is 
in  virtually  modern  terminology,  we  let  it  stand  without  augmenta- 
tion. When  a  brief  identification,  either  in  brackets  or  in  a  note,  will 
keep  the  narrative  going  without  undue  intrusion,  we  use  that  de- 
vice. And  when  a  matter  requires  special  comment,  a  somewhat 
longer  note  is  used.  Our  chief  botanical  aid,  however,  is  the  index. 
Here  we  have  placed  every  significant  mention  of  a  plant,  by  bino- 
mial or  common  name,  followed  by  the  accepted  modern  equivalent. 
Thus,  when  both  JCF's  narrative  and  our  running  annotation  fails 
the  reader,  he  may  try  the  index. 

Vernacular  names  are  given  to  species  when  such  are  available,  but 
frequently  the  common  name  of  the  genus  has  necessarily  been  sub- 
stituted. Plants  in  the  montane  area,  especially,  may  have  no  specific 
common  names,  and  such  generic  names  as  aster,  ragwort,  and 
goldenrod  prevail. 


xxxvii 


EDITORIAL  PROCEDURES 
The  Documents 

The  original  text  is  followed  as  closely  as  the  demands  of  typog- 
raphy will  permit,  with  several  departures  based  on  common  sense 
and  the  current  practice  of  scholars.  In  the  matter  of  capitalization 
the  original  is  followed,  unless  the  writer's  intention  is  not  clear,  in 
which  case  we  resort  to  modern  practice.  Occasionally  in  the  inter- 
ests of  clarity,  a  long,  involved  sentence,  usually  penned  or  dictated 
by  a  bare  literate,  is  broken  into  two  sentences.  Missing  periods  at 
the  ends  of  sentences  are  supplied,  dashes  terminating  sentences  are 
supplanted  by  periods,  and  superfluous  dashes  after  periods  are  omit- 
ted. In  abbreviations,  raised  letters  are  brought  down  and  a  period 
supplied  if  modern  usage  calls  for  one.  Words  underscored  in  manu- 
scripts are  italicized.  The  complimentary  closing  is  run  in  with  the 
preceding  paragraph,  and  a  comma  is  used  if  no  other  end  punctua- 
tion is  present.  The  acute  accent  mark  on  the  e  in  Fremont  is  sup- 
plied when  it  appears  in  the  document  and  omitted  where  it  does 
not  appear,  but  it  is  used  in  all  of  our  own  headings  and  references 
to  Fremont,  even  in  the  pre-1838  period.  It  was  probably  Fremont's 
association  with  the  French  scientist,  Joseph  N.  Nicollet,  that 
brought  the  accented  e  to  the  signature.  Procedures  for  dealing  with 
missing  or  illegible  words,  conjectural  readings,  etc.  are  shown  in 
the  list  of  symbols,  pp.  xliii-xliv.  When  in  doubt  as  to  how  to  proceed 
in  a  trivial  matter,  modern  practice  is  silently  followed ;  if  the  question 
is  more  important,  the  situation  is  explained  in  a  note. 

When  a  related  document  or  letter  is  used,  that  is,  not  one  directly 
to  or  from  Fremont,  extraneous  portions  are  deleted  and  the  deletion 
is  indicated  by  a  symbol.  If  a  manuscript  contains  only  a  brief  refer- 
ence to  the  pertinent  subject,  we  are  more  likely  to  quote  the  passage 
in  a  note  to  some  related  letter  than  to  print  it  as  a  separate  docu- 
ment. 

Because  Jessie  B.  Fremont  wrote  and  signed  so  many  of  her  hus- 
band's letters,  we  have  felt  that  there  should  be  some  indication  of 
this  to  the  reader.  Our  solution  to  the  problem  is  set  forth  in  the  list 
of  symbols. 

The  Notes 

The  first  manuscript  indicated  is  the  one  from  which  the  tran- 
scription has  been  made;  other  copies,  if  known,  are  listed  next.  If 

xxxviii 


endorsements  or  addresses  are  routine,  their  presence  is  merely  noted, 
but  if  they  contribute  useful  information,  they  are  quoted  in  full. 
For  example,  see  the  endorsement  on  Fremont's  application  for  a 
mountain  howitzer  for  his  third  expedition,  Vol.  1,  Doc.  No.  130. 

Material  taken  from  printed  texts  is  so  indicated  (printed,  larkin, 
4:239-41),  but  no  attempt  is  made  to  record  other  printed  versions. 

Senders,  receivers,  and  persons  referred  to  in  the  manuscripts  are 
briefly  identified  at  first  mention.  For  senders  and  receivers,  this 
identification  is  made  in  the  first  paragraph  of  the  notes  and  no  ref- 
erence number  is  used.  The  reader  can  easily  find  the  identification 
of  an  individual  by  locating  in  the  index  the  page  on  which  he  is 
first  mentioned. 

No  source  is  cited  for  the  kind  of  biographical  information  to  be 
found  in  standard  directories,  genealogies,  and  similar  aids. 

Names  of  authors  in  small  capitals  are  citations  to  sources  listed 
in  the  bibliography  on  pp.  807-17.  This  device  enables  us  to  keep 
many  long  titles  and  other  impedimenta  out  of  the  notes.  In  the  case 
of  two  or  more  works  by  the  same  author,  a  number  is  assigned  as 
in  J.  D.  Mc  DERMOTT  [1].  When  a  published  work  is  being  discussed, 
not  merely  cited,  we  often  list  it  fully  by  author  and  title  in  the 
notes. 

To  avoid  the  constant  repetition  of  the  Fremont  names,  we  have 
freely  used  the  initials  JCF  and  JBF  for  John  Charles  and  Jessie. 


xxxix 


y^ii^^ ^t.€^^_a^  ^^<»._»-._  >^Scj«-»i 


•^  .^^ 


A  letter  by  Fremont,  in  his  handwriting 


xl 


2^    ^^^.^  ^^    .il.^^.^^'..-^  ^^^?- 


^t^^        ^^  <^!^«<£^Jt^-^  >^l«>*t-^__       .A^>J.-*^  ^^»-»*^^^     *!«- 


^^ 


/y^r^zr~  A-^^^^^  .^^;^^^^--  ^^  ^^^..^^  .^..^^^ 

A  letter  by  Fremont,  in  the  handwriting  of  Jessie  Benton  Fremont 


xli 


SYMBOLS 


Libraries  and  Archives,  as  Designated 

BY  THE  National  Union  Catalog 

OF  THE  Library  of  Congress 

C  California  State  Library,  Sacramento 

CLSM  Southwest  Museum,  Los  Angeles 

CSmH  Henry  E.  Huntington  Library,  San  Marino 

CoU  University  of  Colorado,  Boulder 

CU-B  Bancroft  Library,  University  of  California,  Berkeley 

DLC  Library  of  Congress 

GHi  Georgia  Historical  Society,  Savannah 

lU  University  of  Illinois,  Urbana 

KyLoF  Filson  Club  Library,  Louisville,  Ky. 

KyU  University  of  Kentucky,  Lexington 

MeHi  Maine  Historical  Society,  Portland 

MnHi  Minnesota  Historical  Society,  St.  Paul 

MH-G  Harvard  University,  Gray  Herbarium  Library,  Cambridge, 

Mass. 

MoSB  Missouri  Botanical  Garden  Library,  St.  Louis 

MoSHi  Missouri  Historical  Society,  St.  Louis 

NcU  University  of  North  Carolina,  Chapel  Hill 

NHi  New  York  Historical  Society  Library,  New  York 

NjP  Princeton  University  Library,  Princeton,  N.J. 

NN  New  York  Public  Library,  New  York 

NNNBG  New  York  Botanical  Garden,  Bronx  Park,  New  York 

PHi  Historical  Society  of  Pennsylvania,  Philadelphia 

PPAmP  American  Philosophical  Society,  Philadelphia 

Vi  Virginia  State  Library,  Richmond 

National  Archives  Record  Groups 

DNA-45  Naval  Records  Collection  of  the  Office  of  Naval  Records 

and  Library 


xliii 


DNA-49  Records  of  the  General  Land  Office 

DNA-75  Records  of  the  Bureau  of  Indian  Affairs 

DNA-77  Records  of  the  Office  of  the  Chief  of  Engineers 

DNA-94  Records  of  the  Adjutant  General's  Office 

DNA-107        Records  of  the  Office  of  the  Secretary  of  War 
DNA-156        Records  of  the  Chief  of  Ordnance,  War  Department 
DNA-217        Records  of  the  United  States  General  Accounting  Office 

(T-135  denotes  a  collection  of  microfilm  documents  in  this 

Record  Group.) 


Other  Symbols  and  Editorial  Aids 

AD  Autograph  document 

ADS  Autograph  document,  signed 

ADS-JBF        Autograph  document,  Fremont's  name  signed  by  Jessie 

AL  Autograph  letter 

ALS  Autograph  letter,  signed 

ALS-JBF         Autograph  letter,  Fremont's  name  signed  by  Jessie 

D  Document 

DS  Document,  signed 

DS-JBF  Document,  Fremont's  name  signed  by  Jessie 

JBF  Jessie  Benton  Fremont 

JCF  John  Charles  Fremont 

Lbk  Letterbook  copy 

LR  Letter  received 

LS  Letter  sent 

RC  Receiver's  copy 

RG  Record  Group 

SO  Sender's  copy 

[     ]  Word  or  phrase  supplied  or  corrected.   Editorial  remarks 

within  text  are  italicized  and  enclosed  in  square  brackets. 

[?]  Conjectural  reading,  or  conjectural  identification  of  an  ad- 

dressee. 

[.  .  .]  A  word  or  two  missing  or  illegible.  Longer  omissions  are 

specified  in  footnotes. 

<     >  Word  or  phrase  deleted  from  manuscript,  usually  by  sender. 

The  words  are  set  in  italics. 

....  Unrelated  matter  deleted  by  the  editor.  The  symbol  stands 

alone,  centered  on  a  separate  line. 


xliv 


Early  Years 

and  the  1842  Expedition 

to  South  Pass 


1.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topogrl  Engrs 
Washington  April  16th  1838. 
Sir 

I  am  authorized  by  the  Hon.  Secretary  of  War  to  inform  you  that 
you  will  be  employed  as  a  Civil  Engineer  under  the  law  of  30th 
April  1824,  and  that  you  will  be  and  are  hereby  assigned  as  an  Assis- 
tant to  J.  N.  Nicol[l]et,  Esqre.^ 

Mr.  Nicol[l]et  is  now  on  his  way  to  St.  Louis,  Missouri.  You  will  re- 
pair to  that  place  without  delay  and  report  to  him  for  orders.  With 
the  view  of  relieving  him  in  his  important  duties  from  all  unneces- 
sary details,  you  will  act  as  disbursing  agent  to  the  expedition,  but 
you  will  make  only  such  expenditures  as  he  shall  authorize.  For  this 
purpose  a  requisition  for  One  Thousand  dollars  will  be  this  day 
made  in  your  favour.  Additional  funds  will  be  supplied  on  your 
estimates  and  will  be  sent  to  such  places  as  you  shall  indicate. 

Enclosed  is  a  copy  of  the  regulations  on  the  subject  of  accounts, 
and  you  will  also  receive  herewith  sets  of  blank  vouchers  and  forms. 

Your  compensation  will  be  four  dollars  per  day,  to  commence 
this  day,  with  an  additional  allowance  of  ten  cents  per  mile  for  your 
travelling  expenses.  Respectfully, 

J.  J.  Abert.  Lt.Cl.  Tl.  Eng. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  2:512).  John  James  Abert  (1788-1863)  had  attended 
West  Point,  practiced  law,  made  geodetic  and  topographic  surveys  in  the 
eastern  U.S.,  and  was  now  chief  of  the  Bureau  of  Topographical  Engineers. 
Serving  on  this  assignm.ent  from  1834  to  1861,  he  was  to  oversee  most  of  the 
extensive  surveys  of  the  West  during  this  period. 


1.  Joseph  Nicolas  Nicollet  (1786-1843),  French  astronomer  and  geographer, 
had  come  to  the  U.S.  from  Paris  in  1832  for  the  purpose  of  "making  a  scien- 
tific tour  and  with  the  view  of  contributing  to  the  progressive  increase  of 
knowledge  in  the  physical  geography  of  North  America"  (nicollet,  3).  He 
soon  had  established  a  reputation  as  a  highly  skilled  and  original  scientist,  en- 
joying the  respect  of  such  men  as  Ferdinand  Rudolph  Hassler,  director  of  the 
new  U.S.  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey.  By  1835  he  had  become  interested  in 
making  the  first  accurate  survey  of  the  Mississippi  River.  He  traveled  widely 
— to  New  Orleans,  St.  Louis,  and  other  cities  of  the  Mississippi  Valley — sur- 
veying and  establishing  stations  to  aid  in  the  determination  of  altitudes.  In 
1836,  he  visited  the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi — the  region  around  Lake 
Itasca  in  Minnesota — and  did  some  preliminary  mapping  which  was  to  cul- 
minate later  in  his  important  map,  "Hydrographic  Basin  of  the  Upper 
Mississippi  River." 

Thus  far,  he  had  financed  all  his  own  work.  Now,  through  the  influence  of 
Secretary  of  War  Poinsett,  the  Bureau  of  Topographical  Engineers  was  to  pay 
for  Nicollet's  further  expeditions  and  the  preparation  of  the  map.  Nicollet 
documents  in  this  volume  are  selected  only  to  show  the  role  of  JCF  in  the 
expeditions  of  1838  and  1839,  and  can  do  little  to  depict  the  scope  of  Nicol- 
let's work.  His  map,  but  not  his  historic  Report  Intended  to  Illustrate  a 
Map  of  the  Hydrographical  Basin  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  River,  is  repro- 
duced in  this  volume.  He  deserves  his  own  biographer,  or  an  editor  who  will 
annotate  the  Report  and  accompanying  map  as  a  contribution  to  the  history  of 
science  in  the  U.S.  For  a  paper  summarizing  his  life  and  work,  see  "Joseph 
N.  Nicollet,  Geographer,"  by  Martha  Coleman  Bray,  in  j.  f.  mc  dermott  [1]. 


2.  Excerpt  from  the  Memoirs 

[1838] 

The  Cherokee  survey  was  over.  I  remained  at  home  only  just  long 
enough  to  enjoy  the  pleasure  of  the  return  to  it,  and  to  rehabituate 
myself  to  old  scenes.  While  I  w^as  trying  to  devise  and  settle  upon 
some  plan  for  the  future,  my  unforgetful  friend,  Mr.  Poinsett,  had 
also  been  thinking  for  me.  He  was  now  Secretary  of  War,  and,  at 
his  request,  I  was  appointed  by  President  [Martin]  Van  Buren  a 
second  lieutenant^  in  the  United  States  Topographical  Corps,  and 
ordered  to  Washington.  Washington  was  greatly  different  then 
from  the  beautiful  capital  of  to-day.  Instead  of  many  broad,  well- 
paved,  and  leafy  avenues,  Pennsylvania  Avenue  about  represented 
the  town.  There  were  not  the  usual  resources  of  public  amusement. 
It  was  a  lonesome  place  for  a  young  man  knowing  but  one  person 
in  the  city,  and  there  was  no  such  attractive  spot  as  the  Battery  by 


the  sea  at  Charleston,  where  a  stranger  could  go  and  feel  the  free- 
dom of  both  eye  and  thought. 

Shut  in  to  narrow  limits,  the  mind  is  driven  in  upon  itself  and 
loses  its  elasticity;  but  the  breast  expands  when,  upon  some  hill-top, 
the  eye  ranges  over  a  broad  expanse  of  country,  or  in  face  of  the 
ocean.  We  do  not  value  enough  the  effect  of  space  for  the  eye;  it 
reacts  on  the  mind,  which  unconsciously  expands  to  larger  limits 
and  freer  range  of  thought.  So  I  was  low  in  my  mind  and  lonesome 
until  I  learned,  with  great  relief,  that  I  was  to  go  upon  a  distant  survey 
into  the  West.  But  that  first  impression  of  flattened  lonesomeness 
which  Washington  had  given  me  has  remained  with  me  to  this  day. 

About  this  time,  a  distinguished  French  savant  had  returned  from 
a  geographical  exploration  of  the  country  about  the  sources  of  the 
Mississippi,  the  position  of  which  he  first  established.  That  region 
and  its  capabilities  were  then  but  little  known,  and  the  results  of  his 
journey  were  of  so  interesting  a  nature  that  they  had  attracted  public 
notice  and  comment.  Through  Mr.  Poinsett,  Mr.  Nicollet  was  in- 
vited to  come  to  Washington,  with  the  object  of  engaging  him  to 
make  a  complete  examination  of  the  great  prairie  region  between 
the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  Rivers,  as  far  north  as  the  British  line, 
and  to  embody  the  whole  of  his  labors  in  a  map  and  general  report 
for  public  use. 

Mr.  Nicollet  had  left  France,  intending  to  spend  five  years  in  geo- 
graphical researches  in  this  country.  His  mind  had  been  drawn  to 
the  early  discoveries  of  his  countrymen,  some  of  which  were  being 
obliterated  and  others  obscured  in  the  lapse  of  time.  He  anticipated 
great  pleasure  in  renewing  the  memory  of  these  journeys,  and  in 
rescuing  them  all  from  the  obscurity  into  which  they  had  fallen,  A 
member  of  the  French  Academy  of  Sciences,  he  was  a  distinguished 
man  in  the  circles  to  which  Arago  and  other  savants  of  equal  rank 
belonged."  Not  only  had  he  been  trained  in  science,  but  he  was 
habitually  schooled  to  the  social  observances  which  make  daily  inter- 
course attractive,  and  become  invaluable  where  hardships  are  to  be 
mutually  borne  and  difficulties  overcome  and  hazards  met.  His 
mind  was  of  the  higher  order.  A  musician  as  well  as  a  mathema- 
tician, it  was  harmonious  and  complete. 

The  Government  now  arranged  with  him  to  extend  his  surveys 
south  and  west  of  the  country  which  he  had  already  explored.  Upon 
this  survey  I  was  ordered  to  accompany  him  as  his  assistant. 


It  was  a  great  pleasure  to  me  to  be  assigned  to  this  duty.  By  this 
time  I  had  gone  through  some  world-schoohng  and  was  able  to 
take  a  sober  view  of  the  realities  of  life.  I  had  learned  to  appreciate 
fully  the  rare  value  of  the  friendly  aid  which  had  opened  up  for  me 
such  congenial  employment,  and  I  resolved  that,  if  it  were  in  me  to 
do  so,  I  would  prove  myself  worthy  of  it.  The  years  of  healthy  exer- 
cise which  I  had  spent  in  open  air  had  hardened  my  body,  and  the 
work  I  had  been  engaged  in  was  kindred  to  that  which  I  was  now 
to  have.  Field  work  in  a  strange  region,  in  association  with  a  man  so 
distinguished,  was  truly  an  unexpected  good  fortune,  and  I  went 
off  from  Washington  full  of  agreeable  anticipation. 

At  St.  Louis  I  joined  Mr.  Nicollet.^  This  was  the  last  large  city 
on  the  western  border,  and  the  fitting-out  place  for  expeditions  over 
the  uninhabited  country.  The  small  towns  along  the  western  bank 
of  the  Missouri  made  for  two  or  three  hundred  miles  a  sort  of  fringe 
to  the  prairies.  At  St.  Louis  I  met  for  the  first  time  General  Robert 
E.  Lee,  then  a  captain  in  the  United  States  Engineer  Corps,  charged 
with  improvements  of  the  Mississippi  River."*  He  was  already  an 
interesting  man.  His  agreeable,  friendly  manner  to  me  as  a  younger 
officer  when  I  was  introduced  to  him,  left  a  more  enduring  impres- 
sion than  usually  goes  with  casual  introductions. 

In  St.  Louis  Mr.  Nicollet  had  a  pleasant  circle  of  friends  among 
the  old  French  residents.  They  were  proud  of  him  as  a  distinguished 
countryman,  and  were  gratified  with  his  employment  by  the  Amer- 
ican Government,  which  in  this  way  recognized  his  distinction  and 
capacity.  His  intention,  in  the  prosecution  of  his  larger  work  to  re- 
vive the  credit  due  to  early  French  discoverers,  was  pleasing  to  their 
national  pride. 

His  acquaintances  he  made  mine,  and  I  had  the  pleasure  and  ad- 
vantage to  share  in  the  amiable  intercourse  and  profuse  hospitality 
which  in  those  days  characterized  the  society  of  the  place.  He  was 
a  Catholic,  and  his  distinction,  together  with  his  refined  character, 
made  him  always  a  welcome  guest  with  his  clergy.  And  I  may  say 
in  the  full  sense  of  the  word,  that  I  "assisted"  often  at  the  agreeable 
suppers  in  the  refectory.  The  pleasure  of  these  grew  in  remembrance 
afterward,  when  hard  and  scanty  fare  and  sometimes  starvation  and 
consequent  bodily  weakness  made  visions  in  the  mind,  and  hunger 
made  memory  dwell  upon  them  by  day  and  dream  of  them  by 
night. 

Such  social  evenings  followed  almost  invariably  the  end  of  the 


day's  preparations.  These  were  soon  now  brought  to  a  close  with  the 
kindly  and  efficient  aid  of  the  Fur  Company's^  officers.  Their  per- 
sonal experience  made  them  know  exactly  what  was  needed  on  the 
proposed  voyage,  and  both  stores  and  men  were  selected  by  them; 
the  men  out  of  those  in  their  own  employ.  These  were  principally 
practised  voyageurs,  accustomed  to  the  experiences  and  incidental 
privations  of  travel  in  the  Indian  country. 

The  aid  given  by  the  house  of  Chouteau  was,  to  this  and  succeed- 
ing expeditions,  an  advantage  which  followed  them  throughout 
their  course  to  their  various  posts  among  the  Indian  tribes. 

Our  destination  now  was  a  trading  post  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Mississippi,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Peter's,  now  better  known  as  the 
Minisotah  River.  This  was  the  residence  of  Mr.  Henry  Sibley,"  who 
was  in  charge  of  the  Fur  Company's  interests  in  the  Mississippi 
Valley.  He  gave  us  a  frontier  welcome^  and  heartily  made  his  house 
our  headquarters.  This  was  the  point  of  departure  at  which  the  ex- 
pedition began  its  work.  It  was  on  the  border  line  of  civilization.  On 
the  left  or  eastern  bank  of  the  river  were  villages  and  settlements  of 
the  whites,  and  the  right  was  the  Indian  country  which  we  were 
about  to  visit.  Fort  Snelling  was  on  the  high  bluff  point  opposite 
between  the  Mini-sotah  and  the  Mississippi.  Near  by  was  a  Sioux 
Indian  village,  and  usually  its  Indians  were  about  the  house  grounds. 
Among  these  I  saw  the  most  beautiful  Indian  girl  I  have  ever  met, 
and  it  is  a  tribute  to  her  singular  beauty  that  after  so  many  years  I 
remember  still  the  name  of  "Ampetu-washtoy" — "the  Beautiful 
day." 

The  house  had  much  the  character  of  a  hunting-lodge.  There 
were  many  dogs  around  about,  and  two  large  wolfhounds,  Lion  and 
Tiger,  had  the  run  of  the  house  and  their  quarters  in  it.  Mr.  Sibley 
was  living  alone,  and  these  fine  dogs  made  him  friendly  companions, 
as  he  belonged  to  the  men  who  love  dogs  and  horses.  For  his  other 
dogs  he  had  built  within  the  enclosure  a  lookout  about  fifteen  feet 
high.  Around  its  platform  the  railing  was  usually  bordered  with  the 
heads  of  dogs  resting  on  their  paws  and  looking  wistfully  out  over 
the  prairie,  probably  reconnoitering  for  wolves.  Of  the  two  hounds 
Tiger  had  betrayed  a  temper  of  such  ferocity,  even  against  his  mas- 
ter, as  eventually  cost  him  his  life.  Lion,  though  a  brother,  had,  on 
the  contrary,  a  companionable  and  affectionate  disposition  and  al- 
most human  intelligence,  which  in  his  case  brought  about  a  sepa- 
ration from  his  old  home. 


On  the  marriage  of  Mr.  Sibley,  Lion  so  far  resented  the  loss  of  his 
first  place  that  he  left  the  house,  swam  across  the  Mississippi,  and 
went  to  the  Fort,  where  he  ended  his  days.  Always  he  was  glad  to 
meet  his  master  when  he  came  over,  keeping  close  by  him  and  fol- 
lowing him  to  the  shore,  though  all  persuasion  failed  to  make  him 
ever  recross  the  river  to  the  home  where  he  had  been  supplanted; 
but  his  life-size  portrait  still  hangs  over  the  fireplace  of  Mr.  Sibley's 
library.  These  dogs  were  of  the  rare  breed  of  the  Irish  wolfhound, 
and  their  story  came  up  as  an  incident  in  a  correspondence,  stretch- 
ing from  Scotland  to  Mini-sotah,  on  the  question  as  to  whether  it 
had  not  become  extinct;  growing  out  of  my  happening  to  own  a 
dog  inheriting  much  of  that  strain. 

Cut  off  from  the  usual  resources,  Mr.  Sibley  had  naturally  to  find 
his  in  the  surroundings.  The  prominent  feature  of  Indian  life  en- 
tered into  his,  and  hunting  became  rather  an  occupation  than  an 
amusement.  But  his  hunting  was  not  the  tramp  of  a  day  to  some 
neighboring  lake  for  wild  fowl,  or  a  ride  on  the  prairie  to  get  a  stray 
shot  at  a  wolf.  These  hunting  expeditions  involved  days'  journeys  to 
unfrequented  ranges  where  large  game  was  abundant,  or  in  winter 
to  the  neighborhood  of  one  of  his  trading-posts,  where  in  event  of 
rough  weather  the  stormy  days  could  be  passed  in  shelter.  He  was 
fully  six  feet  in  height,  well  and  strongly  built,  and  this,  together 
with  his  skill  as  a  hunter,  gave  him  a  hold  on  the  admiration  and 
respect  of  the  Indians. 

In  all  this  stir  of  frontier  life  Mr.  Nicollet  felt  no  interest  and  took 
no  share;  horse  and  dog  were  nothing  to  him.  His  manner  of  life 
had  never  brought  him  into  their  companionship,  and  the  congenial 
work  he  now  had  in  charge  engrossed  his  attention  and  excited  his 
imagination.  His  mind  dwelt  continually  upon  the  geography  of  the 
country,  the  Indian  names  of  lakes  and  rivers  and  their  signification, 
and  upon  whatever  tradition  might  retain  of  former  travels  by  early 
French  explorers. 

Some  weeks  had  now  been  spent  in  completing  that  part  of  the 
outfit  which  had  been  referred  to  this  place.  The  intervening  time 
had  been  used  to  rate  the  chronometers  and  make  necessary  observa- 
tions of  the  latitude  and  longitude  of  our  starting-point. 

MEMOIRS,  30-34.  For  a  discussion  of  the  Memoirs  and  how  they  came  to  be 
written,  see  the  introduction,  pp.  xxxii-xxxvi.  Since  much  of  that  work  is  a 
dupUcation  of  other  JCF  publications,  such  as  fremont  [2]  and  fremont  [3], 

8 


the  Memoirs  will  not  appear  intact  in  the  present  series.  Only  extracts  will  be 
used,  as  above,  where  other  documents  do  not  provide  continuity. 

1.  Although  JCF  was  first  employed  as  a  civilian  (see  Doc.  No.  1),  his  ap- 
pointment as  second  lieutenant  in  the  Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers  came 
soon — on  7  July  1838— and  his  letter  of  acceptance  was  written  1  Jan.  1839. 
See  DNA-94,  5309  ACP  1879  John  C.  Fremont. 

2.  Nicollet  was  not  a  member  of  the  French  Academy  of  Sciences,  and 
Dominique  Francois  Arago  (1786-1853)  had  helped  to  block  his  election 
(arago,  194).  Arago  was  an  astronomer  who  eventually  became  secretary  of 
the  academy. 

3.  In  a  letter  of  17  May  1838,  registered  in  the  bureau  but  not  found,  JCF 
reported  his  arrival  in  St.  Louis.  He  was  warmly  welcomed  by  Nicollet,  who 
had  been  worrying  lest  he  not  arrive  in  time  to  serve  the  expedition  as  dis- 
bursing officer.  This  apprehension  had  prompted  Nicollet  to  seek  the  advice 
of  Capt.  Ethan  Allen  Hitchcock  on  the  keeping  of  records  (Hitchcock  to 
Nicollet,  15  May  1838,  DLC— Nicollet  Papers). 

4.  Superintending  the  improvement  of  St.  Louis  harbor,  and  of  the  Missouri 
and  Upper  Mississippi  rivers,  was  the  first  important  independent  Army 
assignment  of  Robert  E.  Lee  (1807-70).  He  was  particularly  concerned  with 
such  obstructions  to  navigation  as  the  rapids  near  the  mouth  of  the  Des 
Moines,  and  near  Rock  Island,  111. 

5.  Because  the  Chouteau  enterprises  will  appear  frequendy  in  this  and  en- 
suing volumes,  a  brief  outline  of  their  various  forms  seems  desirable.  The 
public  called  it  the  American  Fur  Company,  though  legally  speaking  the 
business  was  known  after  1838  as  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company,  sunder 
nicely  avoids  confusion  by  calling  it  Chouteau's  American  Fur  Company. 

In  1826,  an  alliance  had  been  formed  between  John  Jacob  Astor's  great 
American  Fur  Company,  and  Bernard  Pratte  and  Company,  of  St.  Louis,  un- 
der which  the  management  of  the  affairs  of  the  Western  Department  of  the 
American  Fur  Company  were  placed  in  Pratte's  hands.  Upon  Astor's  retire- 
ment in  1834,  the  Western  Department  was  purchased  by  the  St.  Louis  house 
—which  now  called  itself  Pratte,  Chouteau  and  Company.  The  Northern 
Department,  retaining  the  name  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  was  sold  to 
a  company  of  which  merchant  and  fur  trader  Ramsay  Crooks  was  the  princi- 
pal partner. 

In  St.  Louis  in  1838,  Pratte  dropped  from  active  participation  in  the  com- 
pany, and  the  name,  in  becoming  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company,  merely 
reflected  the  power  and  the  business  and  financial  acumen  of  the  leading 
shareholder,  Pierre  Chouteau,  Jr.  (1789-1865).  In  1843,  Crooks  relinquished 
the  Minnesota  trade  and  Chouteau  picked  it  up.  In  this  manner  the  company 
built  a  trading  area  which  came  to  extend  over  an  immense  territory,  em- 
bracing the  whole  country  watered  by  the  Upper  Mississippi  and  Missouri 
rivers,  as  well  as  the  tributaries  of  the  latter  (chittenden,  1:322,  364,  366; 
SUNDER,  3-17). 

6.  Henry  Hastings  Sibley  (1811-91)  was  associated  with  Ramsay  Crooks 
in  the  Northern  Department  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  and  would  later 
become  a  partner  with  Chouteau.  He  was  to  have  a  long  and  notable  career 
in  business  and  politics,  becoming  Minnesota's  first  territorial  delegate  and 
state  governor  (sibley  [2]  and  jorstad). 

7.  Indian  agent  Lawrence  Taliaferro  noted  in  his  journal  that  the  steamer 
Burlington  arrived  at  Fort  Snelling  25  May  1838  with  the  Nicollet  party 
(MnHi). 


3.  Fremont  to  Mrs.  Ann  B.  Hale 

St.  Peters  upper  Mississip 
June  6th  '38 

We  shall  leave  this  place,  Dear  Mother,  on  Saturday  morning,  on 
an  expedition  up  the  river  St.  Peters  &  shall  not  return  here  under  3 
months.  During  that  period  you  will  receive  no  news  from  me  as 
there  is  no  post  communication  whatever,  after  leaving  this  place. 
You  must  however  answer  this  and  write  also  from  time  to  time  as 
there  is  a  possibility  of  our  returning  sooner  &  at  all  events  I  shall  be 
glad  to  find  letters  here  when  we  do  return.  I  have  requested  the 
Post  Master  of  St.  Louis  to  forward  to  Charleston  any  letters  wh. 
may  reach  his  office  to  my  address.  I  do  this  in  order  that  you  may 
receive  Capt.  [William  G.]  Williams  letter  of  information  relative  to 
the  deposit  [in]  the  Bank  of  the  Metropolis  at  Washington.  I  shall 
write  to  him  (the  Captain)  to-day  a  request  that  he  will  [.  .  .]  the 
advice  to  my  address  in  Charleston  so  that  you  will  be  sure  to  receive 
the  necessary  information.  Enclosed  I  send  you  my  signature  to  a 
blank  &  I  suppose  you  will  take  Mr.  McCrady's^  advice  respecting  the 
manner  of  obtaining  the  deposit.  I  had  a  letter  recently  from  the 
gentleman  who  is  to  deposit  with  Capt.  Williams  the  amt.  of  $60.00. 
The  other  amt.  of  $146.14,  I  presume  the  Capt.  has  already  depos- 
ited. Write  particularly  to  me  on  this  subject.  In  writing  to  me  the 
best  plan  will  be  to  put  simply  my  name  on  the  letter  without  direc- 
tion &  enclose  it  or  them  in  an  envelope  to  Mr.  Poinsett  with  a  re- 
quest that  he  will  forward  them.  Get  Mr.  McCrady  to  do  this  for 
you.  This  method  was  recommended  to  Mr.  Nicollet  by  the  Depart- 
ment as  the  proper  method  for  letters  to  reach  us.  I  like  Mr.  Nicollet 
very  much  though  he  is  inclined  to  spare  neither  himself  nor  us  as 
regards  labor,  he  yet  takes  every  means  to  make  us  comfortable.  He 
is  a  real  Frenchman  in  this  &  you  know  exacdy  what  they  are. 
He  has  provided  a  nice  little  store  of  Coffee,  Chocolate,  Tea,  pre- 
pared Soup  &c  in  addition  to  the  more  substantial  articles  of  food. 
He  has  got  a  store  of  medicine  too  &  makes  me  take  some  pills  occa- 
sionally. As  far  as  regards  Science  I  am  improving  under  him  daily 
&  my  health  under  the  influence  of  this  delicious  climate  has  become 
excellent.  In  addition  to  myself  Mr.  N.  has  with  him  on  his  own  ac- 
count a  young  gentleman  of  N.Y.  whose  name  is  Flandin  &  a  Ger- 
man Botanist,  a  Mr.  Geyer,^  both  very  amiable  &  agreeable.  We 

10 


journey  up  this  river  in  a  large  boat  manned  with  9  men.  As  soon  as 
we  reach  the  point  at  which  we  leave  the  river,  we  put  ourselves, 
provisions,  instruments,  tents  &c  into  wagons  &  with  our  company 
of  13  in  all,  take  to  the  prairies.  I  anticipate  an  interesting  &  delight- 
ful expedition.  In  the  mean  time  I  trust  you  are  enjoying  good 
health  &  will  make  yourself  happy  until  we  meet  again.  Is  Frank^ 
with  you  ?  If  he  is  make  him  &  his  wife  both  put  something  in  your 
letter  to  me.  I  wd.  like  them  to  write  separate  letters,  but  I  don't  like 
to  send  too  large  a  package  to  Mr.  P.  Give  my  love  to  all  our  friends 
but  particularly  to  Lane.  Tell  her  if  [she]  sees  or  communicates 
with  Mr.  Poinsett  to  tell  him  not  to  forget  to  put  me  in  the  Topi. 
Corps.  I  must  stop  now  &  leave  room  for  blanks. 

Yr.  Affectionate  Son — Ch. 

Copy,  reproduced  from  a  typescript  in  MnHi;  original  not  available.  En- 
dorsed, "Fort  Snelling  June  9  [?]";  addressed,  "Mrs.  Ann  B.  Hale  Care  of 
Edwd.  McCrady  Esqr.  Charleston  S.  Carolina."  JCF's  mother  had  remarried, 
but  no  information  concerning  her  third  husband  or  the  date  of  the  marriage 
has  come  to  hand.  In  1844,  Jessie  Benton  Fremont  refers  to  her  as  a  widow- 
all  alone  except  for  her  son.  Certainly  no  husband  was  present  at  her  burial 
on  20  Sept.  1847,  and  JCF  took  the  body  to  Charleston  for  interment.  See 
St.  Thaddeus'  Church  [Aiken,  S.C],  church  record  book  for  1847,  p.  379, 
and  the  diary  or  journal  of  the  Rev.  John  Hamilton  Cornish,  Southern  His- 
torical Collection,  NcU. 

1.  Though  Edward  McCrady  (1802-92)  was  some  eleven  years  older  than 
the  explorer,  JCF  claimed  him  as  a  friend  and  named  a  stream  in  California 
and  Oregon  after  him  (memoirs,  483).  McCrady  was  appointed  U.S.  district 
attorney  for  the  Charleston  area  in  1839,  at  the  request  of  Joel  R.  Poinsett.  In 
1856,  politics  and  the  publication  of  an  old  private  letter  brought  a  rift  in  the 
friendship  (see  Jessie's  manuscript,  "Great  Events  during  the  Life  of  Major 
General  John  C.  Fremont,"  CU-B). 

2.  J.  Eugene  Flandin  was  a  youth  of  nineteen,  the  son  of  New  York  mer- 
chant Pierre  Flandin.  After  serving  with  Nicollet  on  this  expedition  he  re- 
turned to  New  York  to  visit  his  family  with  the  idea  of  going  out  again  with 
Nicollet  in  1839,  but  he  only  went  as  far  as  St.  Louis  (see  Doc.  No.  20). 
However,  his  association  with  Fremont  lasted  for  several  years;  the  New  York 
Times,  19  Feb.  1852,  reported  that  he  had  engineered  the  sale  of  JCF's  Mari- 
posa estate  to  Thomas  Denny  Sargent  for  a  million  dollars.  Charles  A.  Geyer 
(1809-53)  had  come  from  Dresden  in  1834  to  explore  the  plant  life  of  North 
America.  He  had  met  Nicollet  at  St.  Louis  after  an  expedition  up  the  Mis- 
souri, and  was  asked  to  accompany  him  on  both  the  1838  and  1839  ventures. 
Although  he  lost  his  principal  collection  of  plants,  Nicollet's  Report  does  con- 
tain Geyer's  list  of  plants  as  edited  by  botanist  John  Torrey.  See  also  nute, 

DRURY    [1],  and   MC  KELVEY. 

3.  Frank  is  JCF's  younger  brother.  He  left  home  at  fifteen  to  pursue  a 
career  on  the  stage,  but  several  years  later  an  injury  received  during  a  riot 
in  Buffalo,  N.Y.,  forced  him  to  return  to  his  mother  in  Charleston.  He  died 

II 


in  1840  or  1841,  before  the  birth  of  his  daughter  Nina,  who  became  JCF's 
ward  (bigelow,  29;  memoirs,  56;  e.  b.  fremont,  62,  106,  182).  The  girl 
named  Lane,  mentioned  a  few  lines  later,  is  unidentified. 


4.  Fremont  to  Joel  R.  Poinsett 

St.  Peters,  Upper  Mississippi 
8  June  1838 
Dear  Sir 

Our  preparations  are  at  last  entirely  completed  &  tomorrow  we 
follow  the  steps  of  the  Pilgrim  of  Science  into  the  Prairie  Wilder- 
ness. I  can  scarcely  tell  you  how  delighted  I  am  in  having  been 
placed  under  him  in  this  Expedition.  Every  day — almost  every  hour 
I  feel  myself  sensibly  advancing  in  professional  knowledge  &  the 
confused  ideas  of  Science  &  Philosophy  wh  my  mind  has  been  oc- 
cupied are  momently  arranging  themselves  into  order  &  clearness. 
I  admire  Mr.  Nicollet  very  much,  not  only  for  his  extraordinary  & 
highly  cultivated  capacity,  but  for  his  delightful  manner — his  deli- 
cacy &  his  almost  extravagant  enthusiasm  in  the  object  of  his  present 
enterprise  wh  he  seems  to  think  the  sole  object  of  his  existence.  The 
unsetded  &  excited  state  of  the  Indians  has  been  the  cause  of  great 
difficulty  in  procuring  men:  even  old  voyageurs  &  hunters  being  at 
this  time  afraid  to  venture  among  them.  Mr.  Nicollet's  good  man- 
agement however  &  his  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  character  of 
the  people  have  overcome  all  difficulties  &  I  have  found  new  occasion 
to  admire  him  for  the  rigid  economy  at  which  these  arrangements 
have  been  made.  Every  instant  of  our  time  has  however  been  occupied 
in  astronomical  &  Geological  observations — so  closely  indeed  that  we 
have  scarcely  been  able  to  avail  ourselves  of  the  kind  hospitality  & 
attentions  of  the  Garrison  at  Fort  Snelling  &  at  this  moment  I  write 
in  the  haste  of  a  stolen  interval.  Mr.  Nicollet  I  am  aware  has  made 
you  acquainted  with  all  details  connected  with  the  expedition  &  I  can 
add,  I  presume,  nothing  to  what  Mr.  Taliaferro^  &  others  have  com- 
municated to  you  relative  to  the  Indians.  Our  party,  tho'  small,  is 
well  armed,  at  least  sufficiently  so  to  secure  us  in  the  event  of  an  ac- 
cidental rencontre  &  Mr.  Nicollet's  knowledge  of  the  Indians  justi- 
fies us  in  believing  that  we  shall  meet  with  no  serious  difficulty. 
Everything  wh  could  facilitate  our  business  &  all  manner  of  kind- 

12 


nesses  have  been  offered  to  us  by  Mr.  H.H.  Sibley,  one  of  the  Part- 
ners of  the  American  N.W.  Fur  Comp.,  residing  at  this  place."  We 
are  living  with  him  &  shall  probably  do  so  whenever  we  chance  to 
be  at  this  place  in  the  intervals  of  our  excursions.  He  has  been 
obliged  to  withdraw  several  of  his  posts  on  account  of  the  bad  con- 
duct of  the  Indians.  At  Lake  Travers,  one  of  the  Posts  withdrawn, 
one  of  his  clerks  has  been  killed,  another  wounded  &  numbers  of 
horses  &  cattle  destroyed. 

I  hope  that  your  health  has  been  by  this  time  thoroughly  restored. 
In  company  wh  Capt.  Williams  I  called  on  you  when  at  Washing- 
ton, but  you  had  not  yet  sufficiently  recovered  to  receive  visits,  which 
I  extremely  regretted.  I  was  anxious  among  other  things  to  tell  you 
of  the  extreme  solicitude  wh  your  illness  had  excited  throughout  the 
South— it  must  have  been  extremely  gratifying  to  you.  I  certainly 
think  that  this  delightful  [.  .  .]  be  extremely  beneficial  to  you.  Will 
you  have  the  kindness  to  present  my  regards  to  Mrs.  Poinsett?  I 
shall  find  something  in  this  country  to  add  to  her  collection  &  I  will 
certainly  allow  myself  the  pleasure  of  bringing  them  to  her  on  my 
return.  I  am,  most  Respectfully,  Dear  Sir,  yr  obt  Servt. 

C.  Fremont 

ALS,  RC  (PHi— Poinsett  Papers).  Addressed  from  "Fort  Snelling  June  19" 
to  "Hon.  Joel  R.  Poinsett.  Secretary  of  War.  Washington  City  D.C." 

1.  Lawrence  Taliaferro  (1794-1871),  the  Indian  agent  at  St.  Peters  (Fort 
Snelling),  spent  many  years  trying  to  keep  peace  between  the  Sioux  and  their 
traditional  enemies,  the  Chippewas.  He  left  the  agency  in  1840. 

2.  It  was  Sibley  who  procured  the  voyageurs  for  Nicollet  and  became  re- 
sponsible as  agent  of  the  American  Fur  Company  for  their  reimbursement 
(see  Memo,  of  Agreement  between  H.  H.  Sibley  and  certain  voyageurs, 
[June  1838],  MnHi,  and  our  Doc.  No.  13,  voucher  no.  8). 


5.  Excerpt  from  the  Memoirs 

[1838] 

At  length  we  set  out.^  As  our  journey  was  to  be  over  level  and  un- 
broken country  the  camp  material  was  carried  in  one-horse  carts, 
driven  by  Canadian  voyageurs,  the  men  usually  employed  by  the 
Fur  Company  in  their  business  through  this  region.  M.  de  Mont- 
mort,"  a  French  gentleman  attached  to  the  legation  at  Washington, 

13 


and  Mr.  Eugene  Flandin,  a  young  gentleman  belonging  to  a  French 
family  of  New  York,  accompanied  the  party  as  friends  of  Mr.  Nicol- 
let. These  were  pleasant  travelling  companions,  and  both  looked  up 
to  Mr.  Nicollet  with  affectionate  deference  and  admiration.  No 
botanist  had  been  allowed  to  Mr.  Nicollet  by  the  Government, 
but  he  had  for  himself  employed  Mr.  Charles  Geyer,  a  botanist 
recently  from  Germany,  of  unusual  practical  knowledge  in  his  pro- 
fession and  of  companionable  disposition. 

The  proposed  surveys  of  this  northwestern  region  naturally  di- 
vided themselves  into  two:  the  present  one,  at  this  point  connecting 
with  Mr.  Nicollet's  surveys  of  the  upper  Mississippi,  was  to  extend 
westward  to  the  waters  of  the  Missouri  Valley;  the  other,  intended 
for  the  operations  of  the  succeeding  year,  was  to  include  the  valley 
of  the  Missouri  River,  and  the  northwestern  prairies  as  far  as  to  the 
British  line. 

Our  route  lay  up  the  Mini-sotah  for  about  a  hundred  and  fifteen 
miles,  to  a  trading-post  at  the  lower  end  of  the  Traverse  des  Sioux; 
the  prairie  and  river  valley  being  all  beautiful  and  fertile  country. 
We  travelled  along  the  southern  side  of  the  river,  passing  on  the  way 
several  Indian  camps,  and  establishing  at  night  the  course  of  the 
river  by  astronomical  observations.  The  Traverse  des  Sioux  is  a  cross- 
ing-place about  thirty  miles  long,  where  the  river  makes  a  large  rec- 
tangular bend,  coming  down  from  the  northwest  and  turning 
abruptly  to  the  northeast;  the  streams  from  the  southeast,  the  south, 
and  southwest  flowing  into  a  low  line  of  depression  to  where  they 
gather  into  a  knot  at  the  head  of  this  bend,  and  into  its  lowest  part 
as  into  a  bowl.  In  this  great  elbow  of  the  river  is  the  Marah-tanka  or 
Big  Swan  Lake,  the  summer  resort  of  the  Sissiton  Sioux.  Our  way 
over  the  crossing  lay  between  the  lake  and  the  river.  At  the  end  of 
the  Traverse  we  returned  to  the  right  shore  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Waraju  or  Cottonwood  River,  and  encamped  near  the  principal  vil- 
lage of  the  Sissitons.  Their  lodges  were  pitched  in  a  beautiful  situa- 
tion, under  large  trees.  It  needs  only  the  slightest  incident  to  throw 
an  Indian  village  into  a  sudden  excitement  which  is  startling  to  a 
stranger.  We  are  occupied  quietly  among  the  Indians,  Mr.  Nicollet, 
as  usual,  surrounded  by  them,  with  the  aid  of  the  interpreter  getting 
them  to  lay  out  the  form  of  the  lake  and  the  course  of  the  streams 
entering  the  river  near  by,  and,  after  repeated  pronunciations,  enter- 
ing their  names  in  his  note-book ;  Geyer,  followed  by  some  Indians, 


14 


curiously  watching  him  while  digging  up  plants;  and  I,  more  nu- 
merously attended,  pouring  out  the  quicksilver  for  the  artificial 
horizon,  each  in  his  way  busy  at  work;  when  suddenly  everything 
started  into  motion,  the  Indians  running  tumultuously  to  a  little  rise 
which  commanded  a  view  of  the  prairie,  all  clamor  and  excitement. 
The  commotion  was  caused  by  the  appearance  of  two  or  three  elk 
on  the  prairie  horizon.  Those  of  us  who  were  strangers,  and  igno- 
rant of  their  usages,  fancied  there  must  be  at  least  a  war-party  in 
sight. 

From  this  point  we  travelled  up  the  Waraju  River  and  passed  a 
few  days  in  mapping  the  country  around  the  Pelican  Lakes,  and 
among  the  lower  spurs  of  the  Coteau  des  Frames,  a  plateau  which 
separates  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  Rivers.  This  is 
the  single  elevation  separating  the  prairies  of  the  two  rivers.  Ap- 
proaching it,  the  blue  line  which  it  presents,  marked  by  wooded 
ravines  in  contrast  with  the  green  prairie  which  sweeps  to  its  feet, 
suggested  to  the  voyageurs  the  name  they  gave  it,  of  the  Prairie 
Coast.  At  this  elevation,  about  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  the 
prairie  air  was  invigorating,  the  country  studded  with  frequent  lakes 
was  beautiful,  and  the  repose  of  a  few  days  was  refreshing  to  men 
and  animals  after  the  warmer  and  moister  air  of  the  lower  valley. 
Throughout  this  region,  the  rivers  and  lakes,  and  other  noticeable 
features  of  the  country,  bear  French  and  Indian  names,  Sioux  or 
Chippewa,  and  sometimes  Shayan  [Cheyenne].  Sometimes  they 
perpetuate  the  memory  of  an  early  French  discoverer,  or  rest  upon 
some  distinguishing  local  character  of  stream  or  lake;  and  some- 
times they  record  a  simple  incident  of  chase  or  war  which  in  their 
limited  history  were  events. 

We  now  headed  for  our  main  object  in  this  direction,  the  Red 
Pipe  Stone  Quarry,  which  was  to  be  the  limit  of  our  western  travel ; 
from  there  we  were  to  turn  directly  north.  All  this  country  had  been 
a  battle-ground  between  the  Sioux  and  Sacs  and  Foxes.  Crossing  the 
high  plains  over  which  our  journey  now  lay,  we  became  aware  that 
we  were  followed  by  a  party  of  Indians.  Guard  at  night  was  neces- 
sary. But  it  was  no  light  thing,  after  a  day's  work  of  sketching  the 
country,  to  stand  guard  the  night  through,  as  it  now  fell  to  me 
among  others  to  do.  When  we  would  make  the  noon  halt  I 
promptly  took  my  share  of  it  under  the  shade  of  a  cart  in  deep  sleep, 
which  the  fragrant  breeze  of  the  prairie  made  delightful. 


Our  exaggerated  precautions  proved  useless,  as  the  suspected  hos- 
tile party  were  only  friendly  Sioux  who,  knowing  nothing  about  us, 
were  on  their  side  cautiously  watching  us. 

The  Indians  have  a  belief  that  the  Spirit  of  the  Red  Pipe  Stone 
speaks  in  thunder  and  lightning  whenever  a  visit  is  made  to  the 
Quarry.  With  a  singular  coincidence  such  a  storm  broke  upon  us  as 
we  reached  it,  and  the  confirmation  of  the  legend  was  pleasing  to 
young  Renville^  and  the  Sioux  who  had  accompanied  us. 

As  we  came  into  the  valley  the  storm  broke  away  in  a  glow  of 
sunshine  on  the  line  of  red  bluff  which  extended  for  about  three 
miles.  The  day  after  our  arrival  the  party  of  Indians  we  had  been 
watching  came  in.  We  spent  three  friendly  days  together;  they  were 
after  the  red  pipe  stone,  and  we  helped  them,  by  using  gunpowder, 
to  uncover  the  rock. 

It  was  in  itself  a  lovely  place,  made  interesting  by  the  mysterious 
character  given  to  it  by  Indian  tradition,  and  because  of  the  fact  that 
the  existence  of  such  a  rock  is  not  known  anywhere  else.  It  is  on  the 
land  of  the  Sissiton  Sioux,  but  the  other  Indians  make  to  it  annual 
pilgrimages,  as  it  is  from  this  they  make  their  images  and  pipes. 
This  famous  stone,  where  we  saw  it,  was  in  a  layer  about  a  foot  and 
a  half  thick,  overlaid  by  some  twenty-six  feet  of  red-colored  indu- 
rated sand-rock;  the  color  diminishing  in  intensity  from  the  base  to 
the  summit.  The  water  in  the  little  valley  had  led  the  buffalo 
through  it  in  their  yearly  migration  from  north  to  south,  and  the 
tradition  is  that  their  trail  wore  away  the  surface  and  uncovered  the 
stone. 

There  was  a  detached  pedestal  standing  out  a  few  feet  away  from 
the  bluff,  and  about  twenty-five  feet  high.  It  was  quite  a  feat  to 
spring  to  this  from  the  bluff,  as  the  top  was  barely  a  foot  square  and 
uneven,  and  it  required  a  sure  foot  not  to  go  further.  This  was  a 
famous  place  of  the  country,  and  nearly  all  of  us,  as  is  the  custom  in 
famous  places  the  world  over,  carved  our  names  in  the  stone.  It 
speaks  for  the  enduring  quality  of  this  rock  that  the  names  remain 
distinct  to  this  day. 

When  the  position  had  been  established  and  other  objects  of  the 
visit  accomplished,  we  took  up  the  northern  line  of  march  for  the 
Lac  qui  park,  the  trading-post  and  residence  of  the  Renville  family. 

On  our  way  we  passed  through  and  mapped  the  charming  lake 
country  of  the  Coteau  des  Prairies. 

The  head  of  the  Renville  family,^  a  French  Canadian,  was  a 

i6 


border  chief.  Between  him  and  the  British  Hne  was  an  unoccupied 
region  of  some  seven  hundred  miles.  Over  all  the  Indian  tribes 
which  ranged  these  plains  he  had  a  controlling  influence;  they 
obeyed  himself  and  his  son,  who  was  a  firm-looking  man  of  decided 
character.  Their  good  will  was  a  passport  over  this  country. 

The  hospitable  reception  which  is  the  rule  of  the  country  met  us 
here.  I  take  pleasure  in  emphasizing  and  dwelling  on  this,  because 
it  is  apart  from  the  hospitality  of  civilized  life.  There  is  lively  satis- 
faction on  both  sides.  The  advent  of  strangers  in  an  isolated  place 
brings  novelty  and  excitement,  and  to  the  stranger  arriving,  there  is 
great  enjoyment  in  the  change  from  privations  and  watchful  unrest, 
to  the  quiet  safety  and  profusion  of  plenty  in  such  a  frontier  home. 
Our  stay  here  was  made  very  agreeable.  We  had  abundance  of  milk 
and  fresh  meat  and  vegetables,  all  seasoned  with  a  traveller's  appetite 
and  a  hearty  welcome. 

To  gratify  us  a  game  of  Lacrosse  was  played  with  spirit  and  skill 
by  the  Indians.  Among  the  players  was  a  young  half-breed  of  un- 
usual height,  who  was  incomparably  the  swiftest  runner  among 
them.  He  was  a  relation  of  the  Renvilles  and  seemed  to  have  some 
recognized  family  authority,  for  during  the  play  he  would  seize  an 
Indian  by  his  long  hair  and  hurl  him  backward  to  the  ground  to 
make  room  for  himself,  the  other  taking  it  as  matter  of  course. 

Some  time  was  spent  here  in  visiting  the  various  lakes  near  by, 
fixing  their  position  and  gathering  information  concerning  the  char- 
acter of  the  country  and  its  Indians.  This  over,  and  the  limit  of  the 
present  journey  attained,  we  turned  our  faces  eastward  and  started 
back  to  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Peter's. 

While  Mr.  Nicollet  was  occupied  in  making  a  survey  of  the 
Lesueur  River,  and  identifying  localities  and  verifying  accounts  of 
preceding  travellers,  I  was  sent  to  make  an  examination  of  the  Man- 
kato  or  Blue  Earth  River,  which  bore  upon  the  subjects  he  had  in 
view.  The  eastern  division  of  the  expedition  now  closed  with  our 
return  to  Mr.  Sibley's. 

Among  the  episodes  which  gave  a  livelier  coloring  to  the  instruc- 
tive part  of  this  campaign,  was  a  hunting  expedition  on  which  I 
went  with  Mr.  Sibley.'"^  With  him  also  went  M.  Faribault,*''  a  favorite 
companion  of  his  on  such  occasions.  It  was  a  royal  hunt.  He  took 
with  him  the  whole  of  Red  Dog's  village — men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren. The  hunting-ground  was  a  number  of  days'  journey  to  the 
south,  in  loway,  where  game  was  abundant;  many  deer  and  some 

17 


elk.  It  was  in  November,  when  the  does  are  in  their  best  condition. 
The  country  was  well  timbered  and  watered,  stretches  of  prairie  in- 
terspersed with  clumps  and  lines  of  woods. 

Early  in  the  morning  the  chief  would  indicate  the  camping- 
ground  for  the  night,  and  the  men  sally  out  for  the  hunt.  The 
women,  with  the  camp  equipage,  would  then  make  direct  for  the 
spot  pointed  out,  ordinarily  some  grove  about  nine  miles  distant. 
Toward  nightfall  the  hunters  came  in  with  their  game. 

The  day's  tramp  gave  a  lively  interest  to  the  principal  feature 
which  the  camp  presented;  along  the  woods  bright  fires,  where  fat 
venison  was  roasting  on  sticks  before  them,  or  stewing  with  corn  or 
wild  rice  in  pots  hanging  from  tripods;  squaws  busy  over  the  cook- 
ing and  children  rolling  about  over  the  ground.  No  sleep  is  better 
or  more  restoring  than  follows  such  a  dinner,  earned  by  such  a  day. 

On  the  march  one  day,  a  squaw  dropped  behind,  but  came  into 
camp  a  little  later  than  the  others,  bringing  a  child  a  few  hours  old. 
By  circumstance  of  birth  he  should  have  become  a  mighty  hunter, 
but  long  before  he  reached  man's  age  he  had  lost  birthright,  he  and 
his  tribe,  and  I  doubt  if  he  got  even  the  mess  of  pottage  for  which 
Esau  bartered  his.  During  the  hunt  we  had  the  experience  of  a 
prairie  fire.  We  were  on  a  detached  excursion,  Sibley,  Faribault  and 
I.  After  midnight  we  were  aroused  from  a  sound  sleep  by  the  crack- 
ling noise,  and  springing  to  our  feet,  found  ourselves  surrounded, 
without  a  minute  to  lose.  Gathering  in  our  animals,  we  set  fire  to 
the  grass  near  our  tent,  transferring  quickly  animals  and  baggage  to 
the  cleared  ground.  The  fire  swept  past,  and  in  a  few  seconds  struck 
a  grove  of  aspens  near  by  and  leaped  up  the  trees,  making  a  wall  of 
flame  that  sent  a  red  glow  into  the  sky  brighter  even  than  the  waves 
of  fire  that  rolled  over  the  prairie.  We  lost  nothing,  only  tent  and 
belongings  a  little  blackened  with  the  smouldering  grass;  but  the 
harm  was  to  the  woods  and  the  game. 

The  work  of  the  year  and  in  this  quarter  was  now  finished,  and 
we  returned  to  St.  Louis,  to  prepare  for  the  survey  of  the  more  west- 
ern division  in  the  succeeding  year. 


MEMOIRS,  34-38. 

1.  The  route  which  JCF  now  describes  took  the  expedition  southwest  from 
Fort  Snelling,  at  present  Minneapolis  and  St.  Paul,  Minn.,  along  the  Minne- 
sota River  to  the  vicinity  of  Mankato,  then  westward  to  the  Cottonwood  River 
near  New  Ulm.  Ascending  the  Cottonwood  and  its  tributaries,  the  party 
reached  the  Lake  Shetek  complex  in  Murray  County — and  one  of  the  smaller 

l8 


lakes  in  the  group  is  now  called  Lake  Fremont.  After  visiting  the  pipestone 
quarry  at  Pipestone,  Minn.,  the  expedition  headed  north  toward  Lac  qui  Parle. 
JCF  says  the  party  traveled  due  north  over  the  high  plains,  but  the  map  is- 
sued with  Nicollet's  Report  shows  the  group  swinging  to  the  west  as  far  as 
the  Big  Sioux  River,  then  approaching  Lac  qui  Parle  from  the  west.  From  this 
point  the  route  followed  the  Minnesota  back  down  to  Fort  Snelling,  except 
for  a  couple  of  diversions  which  JCF  mentions. 

2.  The  Count  de  Montmort  was  attached  to  the  French  legation  in  Wash- 
ington until  1841.  It  is  clear  that  he  traveled  with  Nicollet  during  a  part 
of  this  expedition,  but  he  returned  to  Washington  sometime  in  1838.  He  did 
not  go  out  again  in  the  spring  of  1839  (almanac,  1840,  1841).  Besides  Flan- 
din,  there  appears  to  have  been  still  another  French  adventurer  with  the  ex- 
pedition. According  to  the  vouchers  for  the  1838  expedition,  a  captain  named 
Belligny  traveled  with  the  party  for  about  forty  days — paying  his  own  way.  It 
is  not  certain  where  Belligny  joined  Nicollet.  In  a  letter  of  2  July  1838,  Fred- 
erick Gebhardt  and  Co.  of  New  York  introduced  Gaspard  de  Belligny  to 
Ramsay  Crooks,  saying  he  was  from  Lyons  and  wished  to  tour  the  U.S.  and 
see  the  Indians,  and  asked  for  letters  to  Detroit  and  St.  Louis  for  him. 
(amer.  fur  CO.,  1:  item  4721).  Another  letter,  written  20  Aug.  1838  by 
Gabriel  Franchere  (MnHi— Sibley  Papers)  calls  Belligny  "a  French  gende- 
man  who  travels  the  country  for  his  amusement  and  information."  But  by  the 
time  these  letters  were  written  the  work  of  the  expedition  was  well  under 
way.  There  is  no  documentation  for  JCF's  statement  (p.  53)  that  Belligny 
was  with  the  1839  expedition. 

3.  Joseph  Renville,  Jr.,  son  of  Joseph  Renville  of  Lac  qui  Parle,  served  as 
guide  and  interpreter  to  Nicollet.  For  his  services  and  the  use  of  Renville's 
wagons  and  horses  he  was  given  a  horse  and  a  $40.00  double-barreled  gun 
(see  voucher  no.  14,  our  p.  40,  and  ackermann). 

4.  Joseph  Renville  (1779-1846)  had  been  in  the  Sioux  country  most  of  his 
life  (his  mother  was  a  Sioux)  and  had  served  as  an  interpreter  in  1805-6  when 
Zebulon  Pike  explored  the  Upper  Mississippi.  After  serving  as  a  British  army 
captain  in  the  War  of  1812,  he  entered  the  service  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, then  helped  to  organize  the  Columbia  Fur  Company.  When  his  com- 
pany was  sold  he  moved  to  Lac  qui  Parle,  built  a  trading  post,  and  spent  the 
rest  of  his  life  there  (ackermann;  chittenden,  1:323-37). 

5.  The  hunting  expedition  described  here  may  not  have  occurred  until  1839. 
Taliaferro  saw  JCF  with  the  Nicollet  party  28  Oct.  1838  bound  for  St.  Louis, 
according  to  his  journal  (MnHi).  On  the  other  hand,  Nicollet  had  to  wait  for 
JCF  at  Prairie  du  Chien  the  following  autumn  when,  presumably,  he  was 
hunting  with  Sibley.  Sibley  himself  says  that  he  accompanied  JCF  to  Prairie 
du  Chien  after  the  hunt — but  he  erroneously  dates  it  1840  (sibley  [3]).  Al- 
though he  does  not  mention  Fremont  in  the  letter  he  wrote  to  his  father  from 
Prairie  du  Chien  on  5  Nov.  1839,  Sibley  does  say  he  had  just  arrived  in  that 
river  town  from  having  conducted  "a  party  of  Sioux  down  to  the  Red  Cedar 
River  (a  tributary  of  the  Lower  Iowa)  on  the  west  of  the  Mississippi  on  a 
hunting  excursion"  of  one  month  (MnHi — Sibley  Papers).  He  had  come  to 
Prairie  du  Chien  to  meet  Ramsay  Crooks,  who  incidentally  arrived  back  in  St. 
Louis  in  time  to  go  east  with  Nicollet. 

6.  Alexander  Faribault  (1806-82)  was  long  a  prominent  factor  for  the 
American  Fur  Company,  established  several  trading  posts  in  the  Cannon 
River  area,  and  founded  the  city  of  Faribault,  Minn.  He  became  a  representa- 
tive in  the  territorial  legislature  in  1851  (sibley  [2];  minn.  coll.,  vol.  14). 

19 


6.  Fremont  to  Henry  H.  Sibley 

Lac  qui  Parle,  Sioux  Country 

16  July  38 
Dear  Sir 

I  avail  myself  of  the  opportunity  offered  by  Mr.  Browns  departure 
this  afternoon  to  acquaint  you  with  the  success  of  the  expedition 
thus  far  &  at  the  same  time  so  express  my  regret  that  in  our  contem- 
plated excursion  to  the  Devil's  Lake  we  cannot  hope  to  enjoy  the 
society  of  yourself,  Capt.  Scott,  Marryatt  &c.  The  chief  of  the  Yanc- 
tons  who  has  been  waiting  for  us  here  &  who  accompanies  us  in  a 
visit  to  Lac  Travers  &  the  Riviere  a  Jaques  says  that  unless  we  are 
fond  of  walking  it  will  not  be  wise  to  go  to  Lac  du  Diable  at  present. 
The  Indians  from  the  Missouri  460  Lodge  of  Tetons  &  300  of  the 
Yanctons  are  there  at  present — amounting  as  we  are  told  to  probably 
4000  warriors,  all  with  the  old  hate  of  the  Americans  &  the  small- 
pox. They  will  winter  there  so  that  it  is  not  probable  that  Marryatt 
will  give  us  next  summer  anything  in  [James  Fenimore]  Cooper's 
line,  tho'  I  am  sure  that  he  has  told  you  something  of  such  a  design. 
I  would  give  much  to  know  if  you  are  determined  to  carry  your  plan 
into  execution  &  go  there  in  September.  Mr.  Nicollet  they  tell  us 
cannot  with  any  sort  of  prudence  go  now,  tho'  as  we  shall  shortly 
be  within  8  days  journey  of  the  Lake  I  should  not  be  surprised  if  his 
anxiety  to  visit  that  section  of  the  country  induced  him  to  attempt  it. 
We  will  be  somewhat  emboldened  too  by  the  favorable  circum- 
stances which  have  hitherto  attended  us.  Until  yesterday  we  had  not 
had  two  hours  rain  in  all  our  journey  skies  without  a  cloud  the  nights 
delightfully  cool  &  the  thermometer  sometimes  as  low  as  45°  +  not 
an  evening  lost  to  astronomical  observations.  The  scenery  too  was  oc- 
casionally surpassingly  beautiful — &  I  never  tho'  something  of  a 
Traveller  had  my  love  of  the  beautiful  in  nature  more  completely 
gratified  than  when  we  reached  the  Pelican  group  of  Lakes.  It  is  al- 
together of  the  character  which  the  French  term  gracieux  &  I  believe 
we  have  nothing  so  in  our  language  to  express  it  more  justly — we 
afterwards  met  with  Lake  scenery  more  beautiful  perhaps  but  with 
me  none  excited  such  emotions  as  the  first.  We  have  visited  the  pipe 
Quarry  &  I  should  have  been  satisfied  if  we  had  made  the  journey 
merely  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  it.  I  could  compare  it  to  nothing 
perhaps  more  justly  than  to  the  Ruins  of  some  Porphyritic  city 

20 


standing  on  the  verge  of  a  desolate  plain  which  had  once  been  cov- 
ered w^ith  luxuriant  farms  &  splendid  villas — we  passed  the  5  lodges 
without  difficulty  &  are  now  quiet  here  but  busily  at  work  for  a  day 
or  two.  Mr.  Nicollet  begged  me  in  writing  for  myself  to  write  for 
him  also,  with  his  regards  he  sends  you  a  Box  of  Sardines  &  part  of 
a  saucisson — the  sardines  I  can  assure  you  are  really  excellent  &  you 
must  enjoy  them.  Will  you  have  the  kindness  to  present  my  regards 
to  the  Officers  of  the  Garrison  particularly  to  Major  Plympton's  & 
Lieut.  Smith's  families.  Remember  me  if  you  please  to  the  gentle- 
men of  your  family.  We  shall  be  with  you  about  the  15th  of  next 
month.  With  much  respect,  Yours  truly, 

C.  Fremont 

P.S.  We  find  it  hard  that  you  sent  us  not  even  a  word  by  Mr.  Brown 
— not  one  word — all  the  party  join  in  presenting  their  regards  to  you 
— you  were  too  much  occupied  with  [.  .  .]  to  think  of  us — excuse 
haste,  etc. 

ALS,  RC  (MnHi — Sibley  Papers).  Addressed  to  Sibley  at  St.  Peters.  Per- 
sons mentioned  in  this  letter  include  Joseph  Renshaw  Brown  (1805-70),  a 
trader  with  the  Sioux  who  had  come  to  Minnesota  as  a  boy  with  the  troops 
that  built  Fort  Snelling;  Capt.  Martin  Scott  (1788-1847),  who  was  stationed 
at  Fort  Snelling  from  about  1821  to  1840  (williams  [2]);  Capt.  Frederick 
Marryat  (1792-1848),  British  author  who  stopped  for  a  brief  time  with  Sibley 
when  he  visited  the  U.S.  in  1837-38  and  gave  an  account  of  his  tour  in  A 
Diary  in  America  (London,  1838);  Maj.  Joseph  Plympton  (d.  1860),  the 
commandant  at  Fort  Snelling,  1837-41;  and  Lieut.  E.  Kirby  Smith,  stationed 
therein  1837  and  1838. 


7.  Fremont  to  Joel  R.  Poinsett 


St.  Peters  Wisconsin  Territory 
Sepr.  5th  1838— 
Dear  Sir 

I  hasten  to  give  you  immediately  on  our  arrival  a  brief  account  of 
our  recent  campaign.  We  have  returned  without  having  a  single  tale 
of  danger  or  suffering  to  relate — no  one  sick  no  accident — we  have 
not  even  starved  a  little  &  starvation  is  the  most  common  accident  in 
this  country.  On  the  contrary  we  are  here  in  fine  health  &  exuberant 
spirits  &  in  the  exultation  of  the  most  complete  success.  I  should  be 

21 


glad  to  relate  to  you  some  of  the  many  interesting  incidents  of  our 
journey,  but  in  the  narrow  limits  of  a  letter  it  is  impossible  to  do 
justice  to  any  of  the  events  wh.  which  every  day  was  crowded.  It 
seemed  as  if  it  were  the  will  of  Providence  that  the  magnificent 
country  we  have  traversed  should  no  longer  be  without  an  inhabi- 
tant, so  highly  favored  by  circumstances  that  it  seemed  as  if  an  in- 
visible hand  smoothed  &  prepared  our  way.  Mr.  Nicollet  has  several 
times  suffered  such  an  opinion  to  escape  him,  for  mingled  with  his 
zeal  for  science  &  warmed  by  the  enthusiasm  characteristic  of  his 
countrymen,  he  cherishes  the  most  exalted  religious  feeling.  For  39 
days  out  of  a  journey  of  85,  we  travelled  on  without  the  loss  of  an 
hour  &  meeting  wh.  scarcely  2  hours  rain — during  the  bright  skies 
whose  heat  was  tempered  by  winds  like  those  from  the  sea  sweeping 
over  the  prairies  &  cloudless  nights,  offering  us  every  facility  for  our 
numerous  astronomical  observations.  Told  before  our  departure  that 
dangers  wd.  beset  every  step,  wh.  gloomy  accounts  of  hostile  tribes 
whose  country  we  were  obliged  to  traverse — we  were  every  where 
received  with  the  warmest  demonstrations  of  welcome  &  hospitality. 
On  our  arrival  in  the  Indian  country  proper,  Mr.  Nicollet  sent  a 
messenger  to  a  formidable  tribe  which  lay  in  our  route,  of  his  inten- 
tion to  pass  thro'  their  country.  With  our  messenger  returned  their 
chief,  a  man  nearly  7  ft.  in  height  &  in  proportion  a  study  for  a  stat- 
uary. "I  heard  of  your  arrival,"  said  he,  "&  tho'  wounded  I  could  not 
rest  in  my  Lodge,  but  have  flown  to  welcome  you  to  our  country. 
You  are  going  to  visit  that  country  &  where  you  go  our  enemies 
throng.  I  must  go  with  you.  My  first  wish  is  to  die  for  the  whites." 
You  may  be  sure  that  his  proffer  of  friendship  was  warmly  met,  but 
we  told  him  how  impossible  it  was  for  him  to  travel  in  such  a  state  & 
at  last  induced  him  reluctantly  to  abandon  his  intention.  "But  I  give 
you  then  my  Son,"  said  he,— "he  is  to  me  the  dearest  thing  on  earth, 
but  my  heart  will  be  rejoiced  if  he  dies  fighting  for  the  whites."  "I 
will  answer  for  his  life  with  mine,"  said  Mr.  N.  &  I  believe  that  each 
present  formed  a  silent  determination  to  bring  back  that  Indian  or 
remain  on  the  prairie  wh  him.  We  had  a  council  on  that  evening, 
when  Mr.  N.  explained  to  the  indians  the  purpose  of  his  coming 
among  them.  He  was  already  known  to  them  as  the  Great  French 
Spirit.  "I  come,  as  you  know,  from  the  nation  beyond  the  great  Salt 
Lake  whose  chief  many  years  ago  was  your  Father.  My  Grandfather 
then  came  to  visit  the  Sioux  &  to  do  them  some  good  &  the  Sioux  all 
treated  him  well.  My  people  &  yours  were  then  brothers.  My  an- 


22 


cestors  returned  to  their  own  country,  but  they  did  not  forget  their 
brethren  the  Sioux  &  spoke  often  of  them  to  their  children.  Their 
children  did  not  forget  the  words  of  the  old  men  &  they  are  anxious 
to  hear  from  their  friends  the  Sioux  &  to  know  if  they  are  happy  & 
have  plenty  of  Bufifalos.  So  I  have  come  to  know  these  things.  But  I 
went  first  to  shake  the  hand  wh  your  great  Father  at  Washington,  & 
he  said,  "Go  to  my  children  the  Sioux.  They  live  so  far  from  me  that 
I  do  not  know  what  they  want.  Go  &  look  at  their  country  &  count 
their  lodges.  Take  them  something  to  eat  &  do  them  some  good,  & 
tell  my  children  that  I  send  you  to  them  &  that  when  you  come  back 
&  bring  good  words  of  them,  I  will  make  their  Fires  very  large  as 
they  were  long  ago,  &  my  children  shall  be  happy."  It  was  affecting 
to  hear  that  chief's  reply,  spoken  with  natural  eloquence  &  an  abrupt 
energy  peculiar  to  the  savage  &  always  startling  to  the  listener.  He 
spoke  of  his  nation,  of  the  earlier  and  happier  periods  of  its  history 
&  contrasted  these  with  its  present  poverty  &  rapid  decay.  "Then," 
said  he,  "the  Buffalo  covered  the  plains.  Our  enemies  fled  before  us 
&  the  blaze  of  our  Fires  was  seen  from  afar,  but  they  have  dwindled 
away  until  their  light  is  almost  extinguished.  There  is  no  more 
games  &  my  people  are  few  &  our  enemies  press  us  on  every  side. 
We  thought  that  we  were  to  die  when  the  snow  comes  but  you  come 
&  bring  us  life.  Our  sky  was  covered  with  clouds  &  dark  with  storm, 
but  you  came  &  again  the  sun  shines  bright  in  the  blue  heavens  &  we 
are  happy."  Mr.  N.  has  always  labored  to  prevent  these  people  from 
going  to  war.  "I  give  you  this  powder,"  he  wd.  tell  them,  "to  kill 
game  for  the  support  of  your  women  &  children  &  to  pay  your  debts 
to  the  Traders,  but  do  not  dare  to  go  to  war  with  it — with  it  you 
will  be  successful  in  the  chase,  but  your  scalp  will  hang  in  your 
enemy's  lodge  if  you  carry  it  with  you  to  war."  He  always  repre- 
sented himself  [to]  these  people  as  specially  sent  by  the  President  to 
enquire  into  their  condition  with  a  view  of  improving  it — endeavor- 
ing in  every  way  to  promote  the  interests  of  the  U.  States.  The  tact  & 
judgment  displayed  in  his  intercourse  wh  them  has  been  eminently 
successful,  &  I  could  not  dwell  too  much  upon  his  superb  manage- 
ment of  the  expedition — not  an  article  lost  or  broken  throughout  our 
long  journey,  not  a  horse  injured  or  stolen,  a  set  of  the  most  ungov- 
ernable men  in  the  world  reduced  in  less  than  a  week  to  perfect 
order  &  obedience,  the  whole  party  cheerful  &  contented  &  all  con- 
ducted wh  the  strictest  regard  to  economy,  superintending  in  person 
the  most  trifling  details  of  duty — giving,  himself,  the  Reveille  at  4  in 

23 


the  morning,  travelling  all  day  pencil  in  hand  sketching  &  noting 
everything — physical  and  descriptive  Geography,  Geology,  Meteo- 
rology, terrestrial  magnetism,  study  of  the  resources  of  the  country 
in  relation  to  its  future  political  condition — nothing  but  the  most 
extraordinary  devotion  to  the  cause  of  science  could  have  supported 
him  under  such  unremitted  labor — night  came  but  brought  v/h  it  no 
cessation  of  toil,  our  astronomical  observations  were  frequently  pro- 
tracted beyond  the  turn  of  the  night  &  every  fourth  night  one  of  the 
officers  kept  watch  until  daylight.  Mr.  N.  taking  his  turn  among  the 
rest — "C'est  bien,"  he  wd.  sometimes  say  with  exultation,  when  after 
the  toils  were  over,  we  stood  to  converse  a  little  at  our  midnight 
fires,  our  frames  exhausted  &  our  blood  fevered  with  the  merciless 
attacks  of  the  mosquitoes — c'est  bien  n'est-ce  pas  ?  so  much  is  done. 
No  matter  what  happens,  if  we  die  tonight,  we  shall  have  done 
something  good  for  science. 

After  having  explored  the  Coteaux  des  Prairies  in  length  140  miles, 
visited  extensively  the  region  of  the  Red  Pipe  Stone  quarry  &  the 
region  watered  by  the  Blue  Earth  Riv.  &  its  numerous  Forks,  we  go 
now  to  take  advantage  of  the  few  days  that  remain  of  the  favorable 
season  to  explore  the  wild  &  broken  region  that  lies  immediately 
west  of  the  Mississippi  &  south  of  the  St.  Peters. 

I  have  the  pleasure  to  thank  you  for  my  appointment  to  the  Topi. 
Engineers.  Major  Plympton  informed  me  of  it  on  my  arrival  here  & 
showed  me  my  name  on  the  list.  I  do  not  transmit  to  the  Depart- 
ment an  acceptance  form,  because  I  have  not  yet  received  any  com- 
munication on  that  subject — indeed  we  are  all,  expecially  Mr. 
Nicollet,  extremely  disappointed  in  having  received  no  letters  from 
any  quarter  on  our  arrival  after  a  somewhat  long  absence. 

We  have  been  transacting  our  money  affairs  thro'  the  Am.  Fur 
Co.  &  as  we  close  our  business  with  that  company  at  St.  Louis,  we 
have  to  request  that  two  or  three  thousand  dollars  may  be  trans- 
mitted to  that  place,  which  we  shall  probably  reach  in  the  latter  days 
of  October.  Mr.  N.  told  me  that  it  is  not  necessary  to  make  a  formal 
requisition.  I  leave  this  letter  with  Mr.  H.  Sibley,  of  the  Am.  Fur 
Co.,  to  be  forwarded  by  the  first  steamboat.  Very  Respectfully  Dear 
Sir,  Your  Obt.  Servt. 

C.  Fremont 

ALS,  RC  (PHi— Poinsett  Papers). 


24 


8.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Pratte,  Chouteau  and  Company 

Bureau  of  Top.  Engineers 
Washington,  Octr.  18th.  1838. 
Gentlemen, 

Your  letter  of  the  5th  inst.  has  been  duly  received. 

By  the  enclosed  extract  from  the  instructions  to  Lieut.  Freemont, 
who  is  with  Mr.  Nicollet,  you  will  perceive  that  he  is  the  disbursing 
agent  of  the  expedition,  and  that  all  its  accounts  will  have  to  be  set- 
tled by  him.  As  Mr.  Nicollet  was  fully  aware  of  this  arrangement 
before  he  left  St.  Louis,  that  he  did  not  apprize  you  of  it  could  have 
been  only  from  an  oversight.  Lieut.  Freemonts  application  for  funds 
will  be  immediately  complied  with.  He  will  adjust  your  account  if 
approved  by  Mr.  Nicollet,  but  as  neither  of  these  gentlemen  are 
probably  fully  aware  of  the  exactness  required  by  our  accounting 
officers  in  the  final  adjustments  of  accounts,  you  will  pardon  me  in 
suggesting  the  propriety  of  your  charges  being  sustained  by  special 
statements  of  quantities  &  prices.  Very  respectfully, 

J.  J.  Abert,  C.T.E. 
Lbk(DNA-77,LS,  2:627). 


9.  Fragment  of  a  Fremont  Journal 


[22-26  Oct.  1838] 

Oct.  22d.  1838.  This  morning  an  Indian  from  M.  Nicollet— to  my 
great  surprise  he  is  at  Sibley's — has  made  a  voyage  full  of  success  but 
attended  wh.  hardship — 12  jours  [.  .  •]  par  la  faim  et  I'incendre  des 
prairies — says  that  in  3  days  at  farthest  he  will  start  to  join  me — 
despatched  Baptisier^  at  8  a.m.  to  Wells,"  ^  days  journey  on  Lake 
Pepin,  in  search  of  Flour,  Sugar,  &c.  Evening — this  day  passed  as  the 
others,  in  walking  among  the  neighboring  hills,  reading  &c.  Snow 
still  covers  the  high  prairies.  I  find  nothing  remarkable  in  Geology, 
Limestone  &  Sandstone  with  some  handsome  conglomerates  &  occa- 
sionally a  granite  Boulder.  I  believe  that  I  have  forgotten  to  mention 
in  its  proper  place  a  large  granite  Boulder  on  the  shore  of  Lake 

25 


Pepin  when  the  wind  compelled  me  to  encamp  during  the  13th  & 
14th  ult.  The  soil  being  excellent,  all  the  vegetables  I  have  seen  are 
very  large  &  fairly  flavoured,  Turnips,  Potatoes,  carrots  &c.  Roque"* 
might  have  a  beautiful  &  comfortable  farm,  he  has  Cows,  Oxen, 
Horses,  all  the  material — but  the  spirit  of  Indian  indolence  seems  to 
pervade  all  here  &  provided  there  is  enough  to  satisfy  the  wants  of 
the  present  moment,  they  do  not  look  beyond.  4  Indian  Lodges  en- 
camped here  yesterday  &  they  have  been  a  little  troublesome  to  us 
today — they  began  to  congregate  around  our  fire  at  supper  time,  but 
our  good  cook  routed  them,  &  they  betook  themselves  to  Roque's 
family  fire  &  in  a  few  moments  more  than  a  Dozen  were  assembled 
there — their  kettle  hanging  over  the  fire  &  a  close  array  of  wild 
Ducks  en  appolas  encircling  it. 

Oct.  23d.  The  day  has  opened  beautifully — a  bright  spring  sun 
shining  in  a  clear  sky  for  the  first  time  since  the  10th  ult.  The  lake 
&  the  river,  notwithstanding  its  swift  current,  smooth  as  a  mirror. 
Above  and  below  this  place  the  river  freezes,  but  immediately  in 
front  of  the  house,  never.  Why  ?  After  Breakfast  walked  wh.  Flan- 
din  on  the  road  by  wh.  Baptisier  was  to  return  &  ascended  one  of  the 
mountains  near  the  entrance  of  the  lake  &  walked  for  a  short  dis- 
tance along  the  [three  words  illegible]  snow  on  summit.  Flandin 
took  off  his  coat  on  reaching  the  summit  (instead  of  Buttoning  it)  & 
lost  a  little  work  on  astronomy,  a  present  from  M.  Verrot*  of  Bait. 
Fine  view  here — think  that  the  Riv.  aux  Boeufs  is  a  mouth  of  the 
Riv.  des  Sauteurs — the  whole  intervening  space  from  the  Cote  to 
latter  being  occupied  by  channels  &  marais — very  nearly  the  same  as 
the  Riv.  aux  Embarras  &  the  Riv.  a  I'eau  Blanche.  Day  passed  as 
usual,  much  pleased  wh.  "La  Perfectibilite  humaine."  Towards  Eve- 
ning Maxime"'  returned  wh.  6  fine  Ducks  &  shortly  after  came  Bap- 
tisier— he  had  purchased  Flour,  Coflfee,  tea  &  sugar  to  the  amount  of 
4.50  &  had  lost,  he  said,  2.50.  I  was  informed  after  his  departure  yes- 
terday that  he  never  lost  an  opportunity  to  become  intoxicated  &  he 
had  enjoyed  this  at  Wells'.  Supped  well  &  slept  well.  After  supper 
sat  up  some  time  listening  to  Augustin's  account  of  Indian  feuds  &c. 

Oct.  24.  Mr.  N.  not  yet  arrived.  Rains  constantly  wh.  high  wind 
from  the  north  during  the  night  but  wh.  the  morning  the  rain — the 
sun  broke  out  gloriously  among  the  clouds,  though  the  wind  rose 
higher.  It  sweeps  down  river  wh.  is  so  ruffled  as  to  look  like  a  rapid 
today,  &  the  little  lake  is  angry  &  white.  1  P.M.  have  returned  from  a 
walk  to  the  hills.  The  snow  still  lies  in  sheltered  places — the  wind  is 

26 


blowing  Keenly  &  the  sky  covered  wh.  dark,  hard  clouds  threaten- 
ing snow.  Maxime  has  retd.  from  the  chase  bringing  wh.  him  10 
Ducks  &  a  large  &  very  fat  Goose.  I  take  much  pleasure  in  listening 
to  his  narrations  of  these  expeditions.  The  colour  of  the  goose  is 
body  gray,  neck  &  head  black,  the  latter  having  a  white  band.  About 
5  O'clock  a  party  of  Americans,  5  in  number  came  to  the  house  & 
requested  permission  to  stay  the  night,  which  was  cold,  raw  & 
windy — granted  of  course — displayed  a  full  measure  of  that  trouble- 
some curiosity  &  intolerable  ill  manners  peculiar  to  the  \several 
words  cut  from  paper]  very  much  annoyed  by  them.  They  were 
from  the  Mile  or  Chippeway  river  bound  to  the  Prairie  du  Chien — 
they  left  us  next  morning  after  breakfast. 

Oct.  25  Thursday.  M.  N.  not  arrived.  Spent  the  day  in  reading, 
mapping  &  walking.  Maxime  startfed]  for  the  chase  at  daylight 
this  morning  &  return [ed]  at  Breakfast  time  wh.  2  very  fat  Geese  & 
2  [.  .  .].  The  Post  Boy  arrived — informed  us  that  Mr.  N.  had  passed 
Danton's*'  on  the  23rd — he  will  certainly  arrive  tomorrow. 

Oct.  26.  Prepared  a  fine  breakfast  in  expectation  of  enjoying  the 
society  of  our  friends  at  that  meal.  Th[ey]  did  not  come.  After 
Breakfast  walked  to  the  summit  of  a  mountain  overlooking  the  lake, 
about  2  miles  hence.  Just  as  I  reached  the  summit,  saw  the  Barge  on 
the  lake  at  foot  of  hill — they  were  under  sail  &  reached  the  house 
before  me.  Messrs.  Geyer  &  Montmort  looking  well.  Mr.  N.  very 
thin.  Mr.  Montmort  escaped  drowning  in  the  morning.  Mr.  N's  re- 
mark [.  .  .]  alive  to  want  of  calculation.  Are  all  men  unjust?  Much 
excited — walked  in  the  cold  wind  for  an  hour  or  so,  wh.  had  a  cool- 
ing effect.  Will  the  resolutions  formed  in  that  hour  be  adhered  to? 
Returned  to  the  house.  Maxime  not  yet  arrived — hope  he  will  come 
in  time  for  supper.^ 

AD  (CLSM).  This  fragment  of  JCF's  record  of  the  1838  expedition  is 
found  in  a  small  notebook,  the  cover  of  which  bears  the  initials  "C.  F."  and 
the  title,  in  his  hand,  "Cahier  d'Observations  Astronomique."  The  document 
contains  astronomical  data  in  JCF's  hand. 

1.  Probably  Jean  Baptiste  Gea,  who  appears  in  the  financial  vouchers  for 
Nov.  1838. 

2.  James  Wells  (d.  1863)  was  a  prominent  trader  when  Sibley  went  to 
Minnesota  in  1834  (siblev  [3]). 

3.  Probably  Augustin  Rocque,  a  trader  whose  house  was  about  three  miles 
below  Lake  Pepin — said  to  have  been  the  only  house  in  1834  between  Prairie 
du  Chien  and  the  mouth  of  the  Minnesota  River  (sibley  [3]). 

4.  Jean  Marcel  Pierre  Auguste  Verot  (1805-76),  of  the  Sulpician  order, 
taught  at  St.  Mary's  Seminary  in  Baltimore  where  Nicollet  had  stayed.  He 

27 


became  vicar-apostolic  of  Florida  in  1858  and  bishop  of  St.  Augustine  in  1870. 

5.  Maxime  Maxwell,  listed  in  the  1838  financial  vouchers  as  a  voyageur. 

6.  Samuel  Dentan  and  Daniel  Gavin,  missionaries  from  Lausanne,  had  es- 
tablished themselves  at  the  head  of  Lake  Pepin  where  a  small  band  of  Sioux 
lived  in  what  was  commonly  known  as  Red  Wing's  village  (folwell, 
1:203-4). 

7.  Two  days  later,  agent  Taliaferro  noted  in  his  journal  that  his  steamboat 
overtook  the  Nicollet  party  of  seven  on  a  barge  below  Mt.  Trempeleau.  "We 
could  not  hail  or  have  a  word  with  them  as  I  wished"  (MnHi). 


10.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topogrl.  Engineers 
Washington,  Oct.  26th  1838 
Sir, 

A  requisition  for  three  thousand  dollars  has  been  this  day  made  in 
your  favor.  The  amount  will  be  sent  to  you  at  St.  Louis.  Respectfully, 

}.  J.  Abert  C.T.E. 
Lbk  (DNA-77,LS,  3:5). 


1 1.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Pratte,  Chouteau  and  Company 

Bureau  of  Topogrl.  Engineers 
Washington,  Novr.  12th  1838. 
Gentlmn. 

Your  letter  of  the  31  Octr.  {not  found]  has  this  moment  been  re- 
ceived. 

I  cannot  see  what  possible  difference  it  can  make  by  whom  or 
through  whom  your  advances  on  account  of  the  expedition  under 
Mr.  Nicollet  are  paid.  In  case  of  advance  of  money,  the  advance  will 
be  refunded,  in  case  of  sales  of  goods,  the  goods  will  be  paid  for,  but 
for  the  reason  in  my  last  &  its  inclosure  Lt.  Fremont  was  made  the 
monied  agent  of  the  expedition.  All  this  was  known  (to  Mr.  Nicol- 
let) before  his  departure  and,  of  course,  before  you  had  advanced  a 
dollar.  Mr.  Nicollets  drafts  will  without  doubt  be  paid  by  Lt.  Fre- 
mont, and  to  enable  him  to  meet  these  and  other  engagements  of 

28 


the  expedition,  a  requisition  for  S3000  to  be  placed  at  his  disposal  at 
St.  Louis  was  made  on  the  26th  of  October. 

On  many  days  previous  to  the  departure  of  Mr.  Nicollet  from  this 
place  and  for  many  after,  the  illness  of  Mr.  Poinsett  was  such,  that 
no  business  intercourse  was  had  with  him.  The  expedition  was 
therefore  organized  entirely  by  this  office,  in  a  way  presumed  to 
coincide  with  his  views,  and  in  conformity  with  the  general  custom 
in  such  cases.  But  in  my  letter  to  you  of  the  18th  you  are  informed 
that  Lt.  Fremonts  application  for  funds  would  be  immediately  com- 
plied with.  He  will  adjust  your  accounts  if  approved  by  Mr.  Nicollet. 
Mr.  Nicollet  could  of  course  approve  of  your  cash  advances  on  his 
draft,  there  could  therefore  be  no  difficulty  or  delay  in  the  adjust- 
ment. And  to  prevent  the  possibility  of  delay,  in  anticipation  of  the 
wants  of  the  expedition,  the  amount  of  $3000  as  before  stated  was 
sent  on  the  26th  of  last  month.  You  will  perceive  therefore  that  to 
meet  your  cash  advances  every  arrangement  has  already  been  made 
&  without  any  knowledge  in  this  office  of  the  assurances  of  the 
Secretary  to  which  you  refer,  those  assurances  have  been  fully  met. 

It  was  not  possible  for  the  Department  to  send  funds  to  you  in 
order  to  meet  Mr.  Nicollets  drafts  on  your  firm;  it  could  only  have 
paid  such  drafts  drawn  on  the  Department  in  your  favour.  Then  the 
draft  would  have  been  charged  to  Nicollet  and  he  would  have  had 
to  have  accounted  for  the  expenditures  of  the  amount.  Had  the 
money  have  been  sent  to  you  to  meet  Nicollet's  drafts  then  you 
would  have  been  charged  with  the  amount  on  the  book  of  the  Trea- 
sury, and  you  would  have  had  to  have  accounts  for  the  expenditure. 
Either  of  these  courses  would  have  put  Mr.  Nicollet  or  yourself  to 
great  inconvenience.  On  these  accounts  Lt.  Fremont  was  made  the 
agent,  and  as  he  was  directed  to  pay  any  account  that  Mr.  Nicollet 
should  approve  it  preserves  the  customary  form  and  kept  Mr.  Nicol- 
let at  the  head.  I  have  made  these  explanations  to  satisfy  you  that 
the  arrangement  is  proper  and  that  every  proper  result  be  relied 
upon  with  confidence. 


J.  J.  Abert  CI.  Tl.  En. 


Lbk  (DNA-77,LS,  3:10-11). 


29 


12.  Joseph  N.  Nicollet  to  F.  R.  Hassler 

St.  Louis,  26  December  1838 
My  dear  friend, 

Mr.  Charles  Fremont,  who  will  give  you  this  letter,  is  the  lieuten- 
ant of  the  topographic  corps  who  accompanied  me  in  my  expedition 
as  first  assistant.  I  present  him  to  you  as  a  special  friend,  very  eager 
to  make  your  acquaintance,  and  very  capable  of  appreciating  your 
great  work.  He  will  give  you  all  the  details  of  my  campaign  which 
was  very  happy,  and  will  explain  to  you  the  reasons  which  keep  me 
here  another  several  weeks.  I  am  in  a  hurry  to  see  you  again  and  am 
exceedingly  vexed  at  the  forced  delay  I  face  in  getting  myself  im- 
mediately to  Washington.  It  was  impossible  to  give  you  word  of 
myself  earlier,  having  been  constantly  away  from  all  means  of  com- 
munication with  civilization.  I  had  news  of  you  through  Col.  Abert, 
when  I  arrived  at  the  place  where  mail  awaited  me.  But  nothing 
more  recent  than  the  month  of  August.  I  am  making  a  vow  that  we 
will  find  each  other  under  the  same  roof  to  spend  together  those 
moments  of  conversation  that  are  so  dear  to  me.  In  the  hope  of  see- 
ing you  again  soon,  I  abstain  from  writing  you  more  lengthily,  hav- 
ing much  to  do  to  send  off  Mr.  Fremont  to  Washington  with  all 
my  paperwork. 

Adieu,  my  dear  friend,  my  best  to  all  your  family,  and  to  you 

more  than  ever, 

J.  N.  Nicollet 

ALS,  RC  (NN— Hassler  Papers).  Addressed.  The  original  is  in  French. 
Ferdinand  Rudolph  Hassler  (1770-1843)  had  come  to  die  U.S.  from  Switzer- 
land in  1805  and  was  now  superintendent  of  the  U.S.  Coast  and  Geodetic 
Survey.  He  would  soon  be  inviting  his  good  friend  Nicollet,  and  young  JCF, 
to  make  some  nighttime  astronomical  observations  atop  his  house  in  Wash- 
ington (CAJORI;  KEVINS,  48-50). 


13.  Financial  Records,  1838 

[31  Dec.  1838] 

Editorial  note:  The  value  of  financial  records  in  historical  docu- 
mentation is  nearly  self-evident.  In  the  case  of  exploring  expeditions, 

30 


these  records  provide  more  than  just  fiscal  information:  they  list 
equipment  and  supplies,  and  the  suppliers  dealt  with;  they  present 
a  rough  chronology  of  an  expedition ;  and  they  provide  a  usually  re- 
liable roster  of  the  personnel  and  the  period  of  employment  for  each 
man.  It  is  not  uncommon  for  the  name  of  an  engage  or  other  em- 
ployee to  appear  nowhere  but  in  the  financial  records. 

It  is  necessary,  however,  to  be  selective  in  presenting  such  records. 
The  most  useful  items  are  the  individual  vouchers  which  go  to  make 
up  the  quarterly  reports  of  the  man  charged  with  disbursing  the 
funds.  We  shall  concentrate  upon  these,  citing  other  documents 
when  they  provide  useful  information.  And  we  shall  do  a  good  deal 
of  normalizing  and  summarizing,  feeling  that  a  slavish  attempt  to 
reproduce  all  the  myriad  bits  of  documentation  in  utter  faithfulness 
to  capitalization,  spelling,  and  format  cannot  serve  any  historio- 
graphic  purpose. 

In  some  cases,  wording  has  been  simplified  or  omitted  but  the 
meaning  has  not  been  altered.  Prices  of  individual  items  are  usually 
omitted  if  they  can  easily  be  determined  by  the  total  price. 

JCF's  accounts  are  fairly  complete  in  the  National  Archives,  us- 
ually compiled  on  a  yearly  basis — each  quarter  occasionally  reported 
separately — and  with  all  the  documents  folded  in  thirds  and  tied 
with  ribbon.  Each  of  these  packets  is  a  "consolidated  file,"  contain- 
ing, besides  the  vouchers  which  represent  JCF's  disbursements,  var- 
ious summaries,  abstracts  of  disbursements,  and  a  statement  of 
account  current.  Supporting  letters  are  sometimes  present,  and  will 
be  quoted  or  given  in  full  when  they  contribute  information. 

JCF's  accounts  for  the  four  quarters  of  1838  are  in  DNA-217, 
Third  Auditor's  Reports  and  Accounts,  Account  No.  10954. 

Voucher  No.  1,  St.  Louis,  17  May  1838 
U.S.  to  Henry  Chouteau 

15  May  1838 

Bill  for  medicine  chest  19.87 

21  bbls.  biscuit  @  2.50,  keg  250  9.00 

100  lbs.  dried  beef  @  12^0,  box  250  12.75 

3|  tablettes  de  bouillon  14.00 

117  lbs.  sausages  15.00 

4  boxes  sardines  6.00,  and  10  lbs.  chocolate  7.50  13.50 

2  lbs.  arrowroot  @  .75,  box  .75  2.25 

31 


4  lbs.  tea  4.00 

Lantern,  candles,  sugar,  tobacco,  etc.  11.50 

10  lbs.  Mocha  coffee  2.20 

8  hams,  lOli  lbs.  12.68 

1  keg  butter  7.00 

1  doz.  port  wine  12.00 

4  bottles  Cognac  brandy  4.00 

Sugar  8.50 

34  lbs.  salt  1.02 

Box  500, 3  tin  canisters  1.00,  dray  age  250  1.75 
17  May  1838 

1  box  sperm  candles,  36  lbs.  @  450,  box  250  16.45 

167.47 

Rect.  17  May  by  ].  Richardson.  Certified  by  JCF.  Endorsed  by  J.  F.  A.  San- 
ford:  "I  certify  that  J.  Richardson  is  an  Employe  in  the  service  of  H.  Chou- 
teau Grocer  &  Compy.  Merchants,  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  and  as  such,  is  in  the  habit 
of  receipting  for  any  money  due  to  Chouteau.  Merchants  in  that  country 
always  give  their  clerks  this  authority."  In  an  unknown  hand:  "The  Bill  & 
receipt  for  Medicine  Chest  wanting  $19.87."  Later  endorsement  by  JCF:  "The 
man  from  whom  the  Medicine  Chest  was  purchased  could  not  be  found  on 
our  return  to  St.  Louis,  from  the  Western  Country,  &  as  it  was  actually  pur- 
chased by  me  from  Mr.  Chouteau,  I  supposed  that  his  receipt  would  be  re- 
garded as  satisfactory.  C.  Fremont."  Henri  P.  Chouteau  (1805-55),  a 
wholesale  grocer  and  commission  and  forwarding  merchant,  was  located  at  39 
N.  Front  Street,  St.  Louis,  in  1839  (j.  f.  mc  dermott  [2],  176).  John  F.  A. 
Sanford  was  associated  with  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company,  acting  mainly 
as  a  liaison  between  St.  Louis  and  the  East  (sunder,  6-7). 

Many  of  the  vouchers  accumulated  valuable  information  in  the  process  of 
being  receipted,  certified,  and  endorsed.  In  such  cases,  the  information  will 
be  noted.  But  many  are  routinely  receipted  at  the  place  and  on  the  date  drawn, 
by  the  person  to  whom  the  money  was  owing,  and  are  routinely  certified  by 
JCF  as  having  "been  received  by  me  and  used,  or  intended  to  be  used,  etc." 
Where  nothing  is  to  be  learned  from  the  receipting,  certification,  and  endorse- 
ment, they  are  omitted. 

Voucher  No.  2,  St.  Peters,  13  Sept.  1838 
U.S.  to  American  Fur  Company 

16  July  through  3  Aug. 

Sundry  articles  furnished  Mr.  Nicollet  at  Lac  qui  Parle,  viz.: 

Binding  and  lead  10-1^ 

1  sheep,  6.00,  9  lbs.  shot,  10  lbs.  tobacco  10.75 

45  lbs.  lead,  10  lbs.  tobacco,  20  lbs.  pemmican  10.62 

45  lbs.  sugar,  4  plates,  4  spoons,  and  4  forks  12.25 

32 


canoe,  15.00,  30  lbs.  flour,  2.10  17.10 

1  basket  and  bag  for  mess  4.00 

soap  3.00 

67.85 

Rect.  13  Sept.  1838  at  St.  Peters  by  H.  H.  Sibley,  as  agent  for  the  American 
Fur  Company. 

Voucher  No.  3,  St.  Peters,  13  Sept.  1838 
U.S.  to  American  Fur  Company 

10  Sept.  1838 

To  advances  of  sundry  necessaries  to  men  at  Lac  qui  Parle  15.20 

less:  by  amount  received  for  1  vv^ooden  canoe  12.00 

3.20 

Rect.  13  Sept.  1838  by  H.  H.  Sibley  as  agent  for  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany. Certified  by  JCF  and  endorsed  by  him:  "The  particulars  of  the  Bill  are 
of  such  a  nature  that  they  could  not  be  specified  in  detail,  such  as  a  pound  of 
beef  to  one  man,  a  few  potatoes  to  another  &  so  on  with  the  rest.  C.  Fremont." 

Voucher  No.  4,  St.  Peters,  13  Sept.  1838 
U.S.  to  Stambaugh  and  Sibley 

5  June  1838 

For  articles  furnished  Mr.  Nicollet's  expedition  at  Fort 

Snelling 

115  lbs.  bacon  28.75,  2  lbs.  tea  3.00,  4  lbs.  coffee  1.00  32.75 

20  lbs.  rice,  2.50,  3  bed  cords  1.50  4.00 

1  pair  shoe  brushes  50(^,  2  boxes  blacking  250  .75 

6  tin  cups  750,  1  set  knives  and  forks  4.00,  6  spoons  1.38  6.13 
\  doz.  teaspoons  500,  \  doz.  plates  6/,  1  tin  pan  750  2.00 

1  frying  pan  1.50,  1  tea  pot  1.00,  1  tea  kettle  4.50  7.00 

2  lbs.  candles  1.00,  2  bars  soap  12/,  1  tin  basin  690  3.19 
1  candlestick  620,  1  loaf  salt,  440,  1  teapot  1.00  2.06 
1  piece  tape  250,  1  fish  line  250  .50 
29  Aug. 

6  lead  pencils  900,  1^  quires  paper  750  1.65 

1  Sept. 

2|  gals,  wine  to  me  5.50 

1  bottle  port  wine  1.00  Paid  Mrs.  Campbell  for  washing  1.87        2.87 

68.40 


33 


Rect.  13  Sept.  1838  at  St.  Peters  by  H.  H.  Sibley  as  agent  for  the  American 
Fur  Company.  Certified  by  JCF.  Endorsed:  "I  certify  that  H.  H.  Sibley  whose 
name  is  affixed  to  the  within  receipt,  is  the  agent  of  the  Am.  Fur  Co.  West 
Depart,  and  that  he  is  authorized  to  receipt  for  them,  or  Stambaugh  &  Sibley. 
J.  F.  A.  Sanford."  Samuel  C.  Stambaugh  and  Sibley  were  partners  in  the 
sutlership  at  Fort  Snelling.  Stambaugh,  the  former  publisher  of  a  county 
newspaper  in  Pennsylvania,  had  been  appointed  to  the  Indian  agency  at  Green 
Bay  in  1832.  When  his  appointment  was  rejected  by  the  Senate,  President 
Andrew  Jackson  sent  him  to  Wisconsin  as  a  special  agent  (jones,  186;  mar- 
tin). Mrs.  Campbell  may  be  Marguerite  Menager  Campbell,  the  wife  of  Scott 
Campbell,  who  was  an  interpreter  at  Fort  Snelling  for  some  twenty-five  years 

(WILLIAMS  [1],  134;  HOFFMANN,  35-37,  42). 

Voucher  No.  5,  St.  Peters,  13  Sept.  1838 
U.S.  to  American  Fur  Company 

YJ  June 

For  sundries  furnished  Mr.  Nicollet  at  Traverse  des  Sioux,  viz: 

3  pieces  fancy  calico,  96f  yds.  24.00 

1  tin  kettle  14/,  1  gun  $6.00  7.75 

2  tin  pans  10/,  1  piece  ribbon  6/  2.00 
10  lbs.  powder  @  5/,  32  lbs.  lead  @  10^^  9.45 
10  lbs.  tobacco,  1^  coffee  2.25 
30  lbs.  Hour  @  6<^,  2  lbs.  sugar  @  200  2.20 
4^  lbs.  rice  @  1/;  amt.  paid  Provencalle  per  request  12.00  12.53 
8  lbs.  tobacco  @  20^,  12  lbs.  lead  @  100  2.80 
12  lbs.  salt  @  50,  1  cod  line  8/  1.60 

64.58 

Rect.  13  Sept.  1838  at  St.  Peters  by  H.  H.  Sibley  as  agent  for  the  American 
Fur  Company.  Certified  by  JCF.  Auditor's  comment  on  endorsement  sheet: 
"The  Bill  &  Receipt  for  the  Amt.  paid  Provencalle  wanting,  $12.00."  Added 
comment  by  JCF:  "The  same  remarks  applicable  to  this  as  to  other  bills  of 
Am.  Fur  Compy.  Agents.  C.  F."  Louis  Provencalle  (ca.  1780-ca.  1850)  was  a 
Minnesota  trader  for  more  than  twenty-five  years.  He  was  in  charge  of  the 
post  at  Traverse  des  Sioux  when  Sibley  made  his  first  inspection  there  in 
1835  (babcock). 

Voucher  No.  6,  St.  Peters,  13  Sept.  1838 
U.S.  to  American  Fur  Company 

25  Aug.  1838 

6  lbs.  powder  4.50,  13  lbs.  lead  13/  6.13 

20  lbs  flour  1.50,  2  lbs.  tobacco  6/  2.25 

1  keg  powder,  25  lbs.  13.00,  1  bag  corn  4.00  17.00 

^  yd.  ticking  1/,  thread  60,  paid  for  bark  canoe  35.00  35.19 

34 


i  bag  corn  2.00,  26  lbs.  bacon  6.50  8.50 

1  lb.  turtle  twine  5/,  1  lb.  candles  2/,  22  lbs.  flour  1.65  2.53 
Repairing  frying  pan  6/,  2  lbs.  Tobacco  4/  1.25 
paid  Benjamin  Dyonne  81  days  service  @  1.00  81.00 
hire  of  6  horses  &  carts  57  days  from  18  June  to  13  Aug.,  and 

of  2  horses  &  carts  63  days  from  18  June  to  19  Aug.,  in  all 

468  days  @  750  per  diem  351.00 

Paid  Joseph  Laframboise  for  a  calf  furnished  by  him  10.00 

Paid  Mrs.  Perry  for  washing  7.13 

521.98 

Rect.  13  Sept.  1838  at  St.  Peters  by  H.  H.  Sibley  as  agent  for  the  American 
Fur  Company.  Certified  by  JCF.  Auditor's  note  states  bills  and  receipts  lack- 
ing for  canoe  and  for  money  to  Dyonne  and  Laframboise.  Endorsement  by 
JCF:  "These  things  were,  as  others,  purchased  of  the  Am.  Fur  Compy.  from 
whom  the  receipt  was  obtained.  C.F."  The  name  of  Benjamin  Dyomme  ap- 
pears frequently  in  the  ledgers  and  daybooks  of  the  American  Fur  Company, 
1835-45.  Joseph  Laframboise  had  been  an  American  Fur  Company  agent  at 
Lake  of  the  Two  Woods  on  the  Coteau  des  Prairies  in  1835,  but  that  post 
was  now  abandoned  and  he  was  serving  as  a  guide  to  Nicollet,  sibley  [3] 
and  WILSON  provide  information  on  his  life  and  trading  activities.  Mrs.  Perry 
is  probably  Mary  Ann  Perry  (d.  1859),  wife  of  Swiss  watchmaker  Abraham 
Perry,  who  had  come  to  Fort  Snelling  in  1827  (williams  [1],  66-67,  101). 
But  as  Sophy  Perry  collected  the  money  (Mendota  Day  Book,  23  June  1838, 
Sibley  Papers)  it  is  possible  that  "Mrs.  Perry"  is  the  daughter-in-law  of  the 
elder  Perrys,  though  we  suspect  she  is  one  of  Mary  Ann's  six  daughters  collect- 
ing the  money  for  her  mother. 

Voucher  No.  7,  St.  Peters,  [  ]  Sept.  1838 
U.S.  to  Americaji  Fur  Company 

28  May  1838 

2  barrels  flour  22.00,  1  barrel  pork  22.00  44.00 
freight  of  1300  lbs.  to  Traverse  des  Sioux  6.50 
30  May 

2  lbs  tobacco  8/,  1  bag  shot  2.75  3.75 

1  2-quire  blank  book  12/,  23  yds.  mosquito  netting  8.63  10.13 

8  yds.  cotton  20/,  thread  2/,  knife  6/,  needles  2/  3.75 

4  June 

thread  2/,  2  yds.  stroud  6.00,  8  lbs.  tobacco  1.60  7.85 

8  June 

14  lbs.  sugar  2.80,  3  pair  3-pt.  blankets  30.00  32.80 

1  pair  2fpt.  blankets  9.00,  12  bushel  corn  18.00,  6  bags  12/  28.50 

4  barrels  flour  44.00,  3  barrels  pork  66.00,  large  kettle  3.00  113.00 

35 


6  guns  58.50,  1  crow  bar  3.00  61.50 

3  drills  &  hammer  3.00,  1  axe  3.00,  1  yd.  cotton  2/,  1  hatchet 

6/  7.00 
paid  for  making  mosquito  bar  1.50,  1  quire  ruled  cap 

paper  4/  2.00 

1  patent  gimlet  1  /6,  36  lbs.  navy  bread  3.60,  40  lbs.  flour  3.00  6.79 

327.57 

Rect.  [  ]  Sept.  1838  at  St.  Peters  by  H.  H.  Sibley  as  agent  for  the  Ameri- 
can Fur  Company.  Certified  by  JCF. 

Voucher  No.  8,  St.  Peters,  [     ]  Sept.  1838 
U.S.  to  American  Fur  Company 

4  June  1838 

40  lbs.  pork  7.50,  20  flints  3/,  12  gun  worms  6/  8.63 

30  June 

1  barrel  flour  12.00,  1  barrel  pork  24.00,  57  lbs.  sugar  11.50         47.50 

2  bags  corn  240  lbs.  7.50,  2  bags  to  contain  4/  8.00 
9  July 

amount  of  Majese  Ascaud's  [Arcand's]  wages  25  days  @  1.00     25.00 

9  Aug. 

2  lbs.  soap  -^7 

25  Aug. 

Service  of  Joseph  Laframboise  as  guide  and  interpreter 

78  days  @  2.50  per  diem  195.00 

Paid  Laframboise  for  use  of  horse  for  43  days  43.00 

James  Clewett  services  as  voyageur  83  days  @  1.00  83.00 

Eusebe  Lanctot  same,  87  days  87.00 

Maxime  Maxwell  same,  81  days  81.00 

Pierre  Boucher  same,  86^  days  86.50 

Joseph  Brunelle  same,  80|  days  80.50 

Francois  Dezirie  for  services  as  cook  lQO-25 

845.75 

Rect.  [  ]  Sept.  1838  at  St.  Peters  by  H.  H.  Sibley  as  agent  for  the  American 
Fur  Company.  Certified  by  JCF.  Auditor's  note  inquires  about  absence  of 
supporting  documents.  Endorsement  by  JCF:  "The  same  remarks  are  appli- 
cable to  this  as  to  other  bills  from  agent  of  American  Fur  Compy.  C.  F." 
Arcand,  Lanctot,  and  Boucher  are  not  identified,  although  their  names  appear 
frequendy  in  the  ledgers  and  daybooks  kept  at  Mendota.  Brunelle,  a  voyageur 
and  scout,  was  said  to  be  more  than  one  hundred  years  old  when  he  died  in 

36 


1912  (letter  of  L.  J.  Carpenter,  11  Feb.  1935,  Historical  Information  File, 
MnHi).  James  Reuben  Clewett  (b.  1810),  an  Englishman,  came  to  Minnesota 
from  Canada  as  a  voyageur  and  clerk  for  the  American  Fur  Company,  work- 
ing first  at  the  post  below  Lake  Pepin  and  later  at  Lake  Traverse  (williams 
f  1],  88-89).  Fran(;ois  Dezirie  is  undoubtedly  Desire  Fronchet,  who  boasted  of 
having  been  a  soldier  under  Napoleon.  He  may  have  served  in  the  U.S.  Army 
at  Fort  Snelling,  and  in  1836  had  been  employed  by  Nicollet  during  the  ex- 
pedition to  the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  (nicollet,  92;  jones,  169; 
WILLIAMS  [1],  63). 

Voucher  No.  9,  Prairie  du  Chien,  26  Nov.  1838 
U.S.  to  American  Fur  Company 

19  Nov. 

3  blank  books  6/,  9  steel  pens  &  2  handles  12/  3.75 

8  skeins  twine  1/,  1  box  caps  3/,  1  lb.  shot  1/  1.50 

1  pair  blue  blankets  3^  pt.  16.00 

1  fine  pen  knife  1.50 
26  Nov. 

paid  H.  Francis  for  board  of  party  20.25 

Cash  paid  Lieut.  Fremont  500.00 

543.00 

Rect.  at  Prairie  du  Chien  26  Nov.  1838  by  H.  L.  Dousman  as  agent  for  the 
American  Fur  Company.  Certified  by  JCF.  Auditor's  note  states  the  $500.00 
will  be  credited  to  account  of  JCF  for  first  quarter  1839.  Subvoucher  lack- 
ing for  amount  paid  H.  Francis.  Endorsement  by  JCF:  "This  is  a  bill  of 
Mr.  Dousman's  which  I  knew  to  be  correct,  and  paid  under  the  supposition 
that  he  was  the  only  person  with  whom  I  could  be  considered  as  dealing. 
C.  F."  Hercules  L.  Dousman  (1800-1868)  was  a  partner  of  Joseph  Rolette  at 
the  American  Fur  Company  station.  The  two  men  made  the  establishment  a 
powerful  one,  controlling  trade  over  a  wide  area  to  the  north  and  west  (sib- 
ley  [1]).  H.  Francis  is  not  identified. 

Voucher  No.  10,  St.  Louis,  3  Jan.  1839 
U.S.  to  Pratte,  Chouteau  and  Company 

For  advances  to  J.  N.  Nicollet  on  account  of 

Exploring  expedition 
24  May  1838 

Paid  for  sundry  articles  of  merchandise  for  Indian  presents  317.23 
Paid  for  tent  26.50 

1  June 
Paid  for  sundry  merchandise  as  presents  to  Renville's  family 

at  Lake  Traverse  73.86 


37 


24  Sept. 

Paid  draft  in  favor  of  H.  Sibley  1899.33 

18  Nov. 

Paid  draft  in  favor  of  H.  L.  Dousman  1312.40 

17  Dec. 

Paid  draft  in  favor  of  H.  L.  Dousman  539.50 

Paid  postage  .50 

31  Dec. 

Paid  draft  in  favor  of  Lt.  Fremont  500.00 

4669.32 

Rect.  at  St.  Louis,  3  Jan.  1839,  by  Pratte,  Chouteau  and  Co.  Certified  by 
JCF.  Auditor's  note  indicates  subvouchers  lacking.  Endorsement  by  JCF:  "As 
Mr.  Chouteau  was  the  only  person  concerned  with  me  in  the  transactions 
specified  on  the  face  of  the  acct.  I  did  not  think  it  necessary  to  require  of  him 
certificates  as  to  the  amount  which  he  paid  for  the  several  articles  on  the  bill. 
C.  F." 

Voucher  No.  11,  St.  Louis,  1  Jan.  1839 
U.S.  to  John  Charles  Fremont 

1838 

Transportation  of  party,  instruments  and  baggage  under 
the  command  of  J.  N.  Nicollet  from  Prairie  du  Chien 
to  St.  Louis  300.47 

1  chronometer  guard  chain  8.00 
Repair  of  sextant                                                                            2.50 

2  thermometers  5.00 

315.97 

Rect.  at  St.  Louis  1  Jan.  1839  by  JCF.  Certified  by  JCF.  Auditor  notes  that 
subvouchers  are  missing.  Endorsement  by  JCF:  "The  expenditures  for  trans- 
portation of  the  party  &c.  were  made  little  by  little  in  a  wild  country  and  to  a 
people  unacquainted  with  such  things  as  accounts.  Vouchers  in  form  for  every 
expenditure  could  only  have  been  obtained  at  the  sacrifice  of  public  interest 
by  the  delay  which  it  would  have  occasioned.  The  guard  chain,  thermometers, 
and  repair  of  sextant  were  paid  by  Mr.  Nicollet  whose  certificate  is  hereunto 
annexed.  C.  Fremont."  Endorsement  by  Nicollet  certifying  to  his  purchase  of 
the  equipment. 

Voucher  No.  12,  Washington,  1  Feb.  1839 
U.S.  to  John  Charles  Fremont 

1838 

To  services  rendered  in  the  capacity  of  assistant  engineer 

38 


in  a  geographical  expedition  under  command  of  J.  N. 
Nicollet  from  15  April  to  31  Dec.  inclusively  at  four 
dollars  per  diem  1036.00 

To  travelling  expenses  at  10  cents  per  mile,  2520  miles, 
viz.:  from  Washington  to  St.  Louis,  thence  to  Fort  Snel- 
ling,  and  from  St.  Louis  to  Washington  252.00 


1288.00 


Rect.  1  Feb.  1839  at  Washington,  D.C.,  by  JCF.  Certified  by  JCF. 


Voucher  No.  13,  Prairie  du  Chien,  7  Nov.  1838 
U.S.  to  America?i  Fur  Company 

14  Sept. 

1  cod  line  8/,  1  bed  cord  5/,  1  bbl.  flour  14.00,  1  bbl.  pork 

26.00  41.63 

1  box  blacking  2/,  1  auger  6/,  1  drawing  knife  10/  2.25 

1  hand  saw  16/,  3  tin  dippers  9/,  rope  8/  4.13 

24  lbs  bacon  6.00,  difference  on  robes,  2.00,  22  lbs.  flour  1.65  9.65 
17  Sept. 

Paid  A.  Ferribault  for  horse  120.00,  9  lbs  pork  1.38  121.38 
5  Oct. 

Paid  Indian  guide,  Nez  Coupee  10.00 
20  Oct. 

Amt.  of  account  with  Stambaugh  &  Sibley  42.35 

difference  on  blankets  3.00,  corn  and  pork  5.50 

1  bushel  potatoes  4/,  looking  glass  2/,  20  lbs.  sugar  4.00  4.75 

Hire  of  horse,  3  carts,  3  harness,  36^  days  54.50 

1  mule  killed  by  Indians  or  stolen  30.50 

Paid  D.  Ferribault  for  33  days  service  as  interpreter  @  2.50  82.50 
1  bbl.  pork  30.00, 1  bushel  potatoes  4/,  5  lbs.  pork  6/,  5  lbs. 

salt  2/  31.50 

Paid  A.  Ferribault  for  33  days  hire  of  horse  @  6/  24.75 

465.39 

Rect.  at  Prairie  du  Chien  7  Nov.  1838  by  H.  L.  Dousman  as  agent  for  the 
American  Fur  Company.  Certified  by  JCF.  Auditor  notes  lack  of  subvouchers  for 
several  items.  Endorsement  by  JCF:  "As  to  those  things  for- which  subvouchers 
are  required,  I  can  only  say  that  Mr.  Dousman  was  the  man  from  whom  the 
actual  purchase  was  made  and  I  cannot  see  that  it  is  requisite  that  I  should 
furnish  the  receipt  of  the  person  from  whom  he   purchased.   C.  Fremont." 

39 


David  Faribault  (d.  ca.  1886)  was  the  young  son  of  Jean  Baptiste  Faribault. 
Like  his  father  and  his  brothers,  Alexander  and  Oliver,  he  also  became  a 
trader. 


Voucher  No.  14,  Prairie  du  Chien,  7  Nov.  1838 
U.S.  to  American  Fur  Company 

9  Sept.  1838 

4  lbs.  tobacco  12/,  1  lb.  twine  5/,  2  quires  paper  8/  3.13 

4  papers  matches  8/,  2  fish  lines  2/,  10  lbs.  flour  6/,  6  lbs. 
pork  900  2.91 

13  Sept. 

soap  7/6,  1  pair  brushes  6/,  1  box  blacking  2/,  1  lb  twine  6/         2.56 

14  Sept. 

1  horse  50.00  and  double  barreled  gun  40.00,  presented  to  J. 
Renville  Jr.  for  services  as  guide  and  interpreter  and  for 

loan  of  wagons,  horses,  etc.  90.00 

32  lbs.  tobacco  8.00,  2  kettles  34/,  6  forks  18/,  6  spoons  3/  14.88 

1  sickle  12/,  6  tin  cups  6/,  2  lbs.  nails  3/,  3^  yds.  cotton  8/  3.63 

1  frying  pan  6/,  2  bags  4/,  1  axe  helve  2/  1.50 

1  bbl.  flour  13.00,  1  bbl.  mess  pork  30.00  43.00 

1  plough  line  3/,  pd.  Mrs.  Latourville  for  mending,  5.00  5.38 

1  blue  cloth  capot  6.00,  1  yd.  ribbon  130  6.13 
paid  wages  of  men  with  provisions  during  Mr.  Nicollet's 

stay  at  St.  Peters  43.00 

216.12 

Rect.  at  Prairie  du  Chien  7  Nov.  1838  by  H.  L.  Dousman  as  agent  for  the 
American  Fur  Company.  Certified  by  JCF.  Auditor  questions  lack  of  sub- 
vouchers.  Endorsement  by  JCF:  "With  the  exception  of  the  sanction  of  the 
Secy,  of  War  for  the  present  to  Renville  this  acct.  is  of  the  same  nature  of  the 
others  of  Mr.  Dousman's.  C.  F."  Mrs.  Latourville  is  not  identified. 

Voucher  No.  15,  Prairie  du  Chien,  [  ]  Nov.  1838 
U.S.  to  American  Fur  Company 

3  Nov. 

2  pocket  flasks  @  4/,  3  quires  paper  3/  2.13 
paid  Joseph  Rolette  for  1  wood  canoe  20.00 
12  mackerels  @  1/,  3  lbs.  rice  @  22/,  2  loaves  bread  @  1/  2.12 

1  lb.  chocolate  3/,  2  thermometers  @  22/,  1  bottle  ink  3/  6.25 

2  steel  pens  @  1/,  3  lead  pencils  @  1/  -63 

40 


9  Nov. 

5  steel  pens  &  handles  6/,  1  sheet  drawing  paper  1/ 

4  lead  pencils  @  1/,  1  doz.  quills  3/ 

2  cakes  soap  5/,  1  yd.  diaper  2/,  1|  yds.  gauze  6/,  1  lb.  soap 

2/ 
1  scarlet  belt  4/,  4  lbs.  lead  4/,  1  plough  line  3/ 
14  sheets  envelope  paper 
Sundry  provisions  and  supplies  furnished  to  the  party 


.87 

.88 

1.88 

1.37 

.25 

70.25 

106.63 


Rect.  at  Prairie  du  Chien  [  ]  Nov.  1838  by  H.  L.  Dousman  as  agent  for 
the  American  Fur  Company.  Certified  by  JCF.  Endorsed  by  JCF:  "The  same 
remarks  are  appHcable  to  this  as  to  the  other  bill  of  Mr.  Dousman's  for 
$465.39.  C.  F."  Joseph  Rolette  (1781-1842),  a  fur  trader  and  land  speculator 
at  Prairie  du  Chien,  was  associated  with  Hercules  L.  Dousman  in  the  Ameri- 
can Fur  Company  after  1826  (dict.  wis.  bigg.).  Zebulon  Pike  met  him  (and 
archly  declined  a  gift  of  brandy,  coffee,  and  sugar)  during  his  expedition  of 
1805-6. 

Voucher  No.  16,  Prairie  du  Chien,  [  ]  Nov.  1838 
U.S.  to  American  Fur  Company 

20  Oct. 

Paid  D.  Ferribault  for  a  blanket  6.00  and  a  double  barreled 

gun  20.00,  presented  to  Indian  guide  26.00 

[  ]  Nov. 

Paid  the  following  for  services 

George  Cournoyer  61.00 

Joseph  Brunelle  80.75 

Jean  Baptiste  Gea  70.00 

Maxime  Maxwell  73.00 

Chs.  Prevost  51.51 

Pierre  Lanoix  60.00 

Louis  Quenon  74.25 

Paid  Louis  Rock  for  services  as  guide  and  interpreter  37 

days  @  1.50,  and  for  powder,  lead,  and  potatoes,  72.75. 

Credit  1  double-barrelled  gun  45.00  27.75 

524.26 

Rect.  at  Prairie  du  Chien  [  ]  Nov.  1838  by  H.  L.  Dousman  as  agent  for 
the  American  Fur  Company.  Certified  by  JCF.  Auditor's  note  questions  lack 
of  subvouchers.  Endorsement  by  JCF:  "Same  explanation  as  to  other  accts.  of 
Mr.  D's.  C.  F."  George  Cournoyer  was  listed  as  a  resident  of  St.  Paul  in  1850 
(wiLLiAMs  [1],  267).  Louis  Rock  [Rocque]  was  the  son  of  Augustin  Rocque, 
the  trader  living  below  Lake  Pepin.  Prevost,  Lanoix,  and  Quenon  not  identi- 

41 


32.50 


fied;  but  obviously  Nicollet  thought  highly  of  Lanoix  as  he  requested  that  Sib- 
ley bring  him  and  George  Cournoyer  to  Lac  qui  Pade  (Nicollet  to  Sibley,  St. 
Louis,  18  March  1839,  MnHi— Sibley  Papers).  Gea  is  referred  to  elsewhere 
as  "Baptisier." 

Voucher  No.  17  [not  present^ 

Voucher  No.  18,  St.  Louis,  6  Dec.  1838 
U.S.  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 

Bill  A  [see  below]  51.75 

Bill  B  [see  below]  46.00 

L  India  rubber,  for  canoe  coverings,  to  secure  provisions, 

instruments,  etc. 

2.  Transportation  of  instruments  and  baggage  from  Balti- 
more to  St.  Louis,  by  stages  and  steamboats  48.50 

3.  Nautical  almanac,  American  almanac  6.50 

4.  Paid  to  w^atchmaker  for  a  chronometer  box,  to  secure  a 
valuable  chronometer  that  belongs  to  U.S.  2.25 

N.B.  1  to  4,  no  receipts.  At  the  time  I  paid  out  those  articles 
I  was  ignorant  of  the  rules  to  be  observed  on  keeping  pub- 
lic accounts,  and  the  accounting  officer  of  the  expedition 
had  not  yet  joined  with  me.  187.50 

Rect.  at  St.  Louis  6  Dec.  1838  by  J.  N.  Nicollet.  Certified  by  JCF. 

Bill  A,  U.S.  to  George  Engelmann,  M.D.,  17  May  1838 
Vaccine  matter  19.00 

Camphor,  peppermint  and  other  drugs  2.25 

apparatus  for  geological  surveys   (hammers,  chisel,  punch, 

and  a  big  knife)  9.50 

paper,  8  reams,  for  preserving  plants 
boxing  up  the  same 


18.00 
1.00 


Bill  B,  U.S.  to  J.  &  S.  Hawken,  17  May  1838 
One  fine  American  fowling  piece,  double  barrel,  with  leather 
case 


51.75 


46.00 


For  a  note  on  Dr.  George  Engelmann,  of  St.  Louis,  see  under  Doc.  No.  31. 
The  Hawken  brothers,  Jacob  (1786-1849)  and  Samuel  (b.  1792),  were  St. 
Louis  gunmakers  whose  "Hawken  rifle"  was  famous  from  the  Alleghenies 
to  the  Rockies.  It  was  the  weapon  in  common  use  by  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany (scHARF,  1:809-10). 

42 


Voucher  No.  19,  Baltimore,  18  April  1838 
U.S.  to  ]ames  Green 

12  April 

Repairing  barometer  12.00 

repairing  microscope  -75 

repairing  magnetic  compass,  brass  needle  1.50 

2  mountain  barometers  50.00 

2  cases  for  same  5.50 
6  pocket  thermometers  15.00 
6  dark  glasses  2.25 

3  magnifiers  2.25 

8925 

discount  2.00 

8725 


Certified  by  J.  N.  Nicollet.  Dr.  George  Engelmann  noted  that  for  forty 
years  he  had  used  instruments  made  by  James  (iree-n,  of  Baltimore  and  New 
York  (bek,  pt.  4,  p.  85).  In  1840,  Green  was  located  at  1  S.  Liberty  Street, 
Baltimore. 

1.  In  addition  to  the  vouchers  presented  above,  one  small  subvoucher  is 
present,  a  bill  from  the  steamboat  Burlington  for  freight  from  St.  Louis  to 
St.  Peters,  924  pounds  @  1.00  per  cwt,  totaling  $13.86.  Rect.  at  St.  Peters  26 
May  1838  in  a  clerk's  hand. 

The  collection  of  vouchers  assembled  here  represents  JCF's  first  encounter 
with  the  rigorous  requirements  of  the  War  Department  in  the  keeping  of 
accounts.  Not  only  was  he  new  at  the  task,  but  he  had  a  natural  aversion  to 
such  niceties  which  was  to  bring  him  into  conflict  with  bookkeepers  and 
auditors  throughout  all  his  service  for  the  government.  Given  Nicollet's  own 
naive  approach  to  such  formalities,  the  two  men  combined  must  have  put 
despair  into  the  hearts  of  the  Washington  staff.  Colonel  Abert  was  to  find 
many  an  occasion  to  justify,  to  the  auditors,  the  informality  of  JCF's  ac- 
counts. He  first  attempted  it  in  a  letter  (filed  with  these  accounts)  of  16  Dec. 
1840  to  Secretary  of  War  Joel  R.  Poinsett:  "The  U.S.  had  no  funds  for 
the  Survey,  and  this  [American  Fur]  Company  had  to  advance  and  pay  for 
everything,  which  it  did  at  the  request  of  the  War  Department.  The  high 
character  of  this  Company  for  integrity,  puts  that  point  beyond  question.  And 
in  reference  to  items  in  the  bills  of  the  Company,  in  which  they  charge  an 
amount  as  being  paid  for  an  article,  and  which  is  objected  to  for  the  want  of 
a  subvoucher,  it  appears  to  me  that  this  is  an  exactness  without  adequate  ob- 
ject. The  remark  in  the  bill,  if  it  proves  anything,  proves  that  the  Company 
had  not  the  article  for  sale,  procured  it  for  the  U.S.  and  charged  for  it  no 
more  than  it  cost  them.  .  .  .  The  Company  are  not  manufacturers.  Every- 
thing they  sell  was  bought  from  some  one,  but  articles  procured  by  them  and 
not  in  their  line  were  furnished  to  the  U.S.  without  profit.  No  subvoucher 
was  in  my  judgment,  more  necessary  in  such  cases  than  for  any  other  article." 
By  way  of  further  explanation,   Abert   wrote  to   the   Treasury   Department: 

43 


"There  is  a  circumstance  connected  with  the  expenditures  under  Lieut.  Fre- 
mont, and  of  which  the  Comptroller  was  probably  not  aware,  which  places 
the  American  Fur  Company  so  frequently  in  the  attitude  of  an  original  pay- 
master. It  is,  that  having  no  funds  at  the  time,  appropriated  for  the  expedi- 
tion, it  was  sustained  entirely  (and  at  the  request  of  the  War  Department)  by 
the  resources  and  means  of  that  company.  In  fact,  that  company  supplied 
every  thing  and  had  to  await  an  appropriation  before  it  was  paid"  (Lbk, 
DNA-77,  LS,  4:319). 

JCF  was  still  explaining,  in  a  letter  of  26  Feb.  1841  to  the  Second  Comp- 
troller of  the  Treasury  (filed  with  the  above  financial  accounts),  why  he  did 
not  have  proper  receipts  from  the  engages  who  were  paid  by  Pierre  Chouteau, 
Jr.  "The  causes,  arising  from  the  nature  of  the  service  in  an  uncivilized  re- 
gion, which  led  to  so  loose  a  method  of  keeping  accounts,  and  my  own 
inexperience  in  such  matters,  I  have,  heretofore,  explained  in  remarks  ac- 
companying the  several  vouchers  for  my  expenditures.  .  .  ." 


14.  Fremont  to  J.  J.  Abert 

St.  Louis  1  Jany.  1839 


Sir 


I  have  the  honor  to  accept  the  appointment  which  has  been  con- 
ferred upon  me  of  2d  Lieutenant  in  the  Corps  of  Topographical 
Engineers.  Respectfully  Sir  Your  Obt.  Servt., 

C.  Fremont 

ALS,  RC  (DNA-94,  5309  ACP  file  1879  John  C.  Fremont).  Endorsed; 
reed.  26  Jan.  1839. 


15.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topi.  Engrs. 
Washington,  Jany.  4th  1839 
Sm, 

I  have  received  your  letter  of  the  21st^  and  congratulate  you  on 
your  safe  return  to  St.  Louis.  This  with  one  from  Prairie  du  Chien  at 
the  termination  of  your  first  expedition,  and  the  two  brought  by  Mr. 
Montmort  are  the  only  letters  which  have  been  received  from  either 


44 


Mr.  Nicollet  or  yourself  since  your  departure,  last  spring,  from  St. 
Louis. 

I  hope  you  may  not  be  so  truly  unfortunate  as  to  lose  the  Geologi- 
cal and  botanical  collection. 

If  you  should  have  occasion  to  make  a  draft  in  order  to  close  your 
accounts  with  Pratt  Chouteau  &  Co.  please  to  draw  it  on  this  Bureau. 
Respectfully, 

J.  J.  Abert.  CI.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  3:40). 

1.  JCF's  21  Dec.  1838  letter,  referred  to  here  by  Abert,  was  listed  in  the 
Register  of  Letters  Received,  but  is  no  longer  present  in  the  National  Archives. 
This  is  true  also  of  his  19  Nov.  1838  letter,  written  from  Prairie  du  Chien,  in 
which  he  reported  Nicollet  was  ill. 


16.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 


Bureau  Topi.  Enginrs. 
Washington,  March  2d  1839 
Sir 

You  will  repair  to  St.  Louis  as  soon  as  practicable,  &  there  join- 
ing Mr.  Nicollet,  will  aid  him  in  his  geographl.  operations. 

The  experience  which  you  have  had  with  your  accts.,  will,  I  hope, 
prevent  the  encountering  of  similar  difficulties  hereafter,  &  impress 
upon  your  mind  the  necessity  of  bills  in  detail  and  receipts.  You  can 
procure  the  materials  for  a  small  flag  and  have  it  made. 

The  Secretary  agrees  to  the  recommendation  of  Mr.  Nicollet  in 
reference  to  Mess.  Geyers  &  Flandin  &  you  are  therefore  authorized 
to  pay  them  for  the  expedition  of  the  present  year  a  compensation  of 
two  dollars  per  day  to  each  in  full  for  their  services. 

In  addition  to  the  requisition  for  $500  to  be  paid  to  you  at  this 
place,  another  for  $1500  has  been  this  day  made  in  your  favour  to  be 
sent  to  St.  Louis  &  Mess.  Pratt  Chouteau  &  Co.  will  be  written  to  & 
requested  to  credit  your  demands  to  the  amount  of  $5000. 

Whether  Mess.  Pratt  Chouteau  &  Co.  credit  to  you  will  be  liqui- 
dated by  sending  money  to  St.  Louis,  or  by  authorizing  you  to  draw 
on  the  Bureau  for  the  amt.  when  the  expedition  has  terminated  can- 


45 


not  now  be  decided,  but  will  be  by  the  time  you  will  close  your  acct. 
with  them. 

The  compensation  to  Mr.  Nicollet  &  to  Mess.  Geyer  and  Flandin 
will  be  paid  by  you,  as  required  by  them,  as  far  as  practicable  out  of 
the  funds  sent  to  you  &  for  which  you  will  have  credit  with  Mess. 
Pratt  Chouteau  &  Co. 

The  plan  of  the  expedition  for  the  present  year,  as  indicated  in  a 
letter  from  Mr.  Nicollet  to  you,  of  the  9th  of  Jany.  (on  file  in  this 
ofhce)  is  fully  approved  by  the  Secretary.^  Respectfy, 

J.  J.  Abert.  CI.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  3:98-99). 

1.  JCF  submitted  Nicollet's  plan  for  the  1839  operation  in  a  letter  to  the 
bureau,  23  Feb.  1839.  It  was  registered  as  received,  but  is  no  longer  present. 
What  Nicollet  proposed  was  to  continue  the  operation  now  being  called  "Mil- 
itary and  Geographical  Survey  of  the  Country  West  of  the  Mississippi  and 
North  of  the  Missouri."  He  and  JCF  were  preparing  to  depart  in  the  spring, 
first  ascending  the  Missouri  by  steamboat.  Since  the  vessel  was  scheduled  to 
leave  St.  Louis  in  March,  it  was  necessary  for  the  bureau  to  send  them  off  be- 
fore funds  had  been  appropriated  (see  Doc.  No.  17).  Documents  which  fol- 
low are  selected  to  outline  the  course  of  the  expedition  and  JCF's  role  in  it, 
but  Nicollet's  official  Report  is  not  presented. 


17.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Pratte,  Chouteau  and  Company 

Bureau  of  Topi.  Engineers 
Washington  March  2d  1839 
Gentn. 

I  am  directed  by  the  Hon.  Secrety.  of  War  to  inform  you  that  he 
has  approved  of  the  expedition  to  the  West  for  the  present  year,  as 
indicated  by  Mr.  Nicollet,  &  I  am  also  authorized  to  request  you  to 
meet  the  demands  of  the  expedition  for  an  amount  of  $5000.  Lt. 
Fremont  is  the  disbursing  agent  of  the  expedition. 

In  liquidating  such  advances  &  credits  as  you  shall  give,  the  Dept. 
w^ill  either  transmit  funds  to  you  at  St.  Louis  or  authorize  Lt.  Fre- 
mont to  draw  bills  on  the  Dept.,  payable  here,  after  the  expedition 
has  terminated,  but  I  cannot  novi^  say  which  course  it  will  be  in  its 
power  to  adopt.  I  am  however  at  liberty  to  assure  you  that  it  will 
adopt  whichever  course  shall  be  found  agreeable  to  you  &  which 

46 


shall  not  militate  against  the  necessary  regulations  of  the  Treasury 
Dept.  Respectfully, 

J.  J.  Abert,  CI.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  3:98).  Once  again  it  became  necessary  for  the  govern- 
ment to  relv  upon  private  interests  to  finance  an  expedition.  Having  received 
authorization  from  the  Secretary  of  War  and  assurances  from  Congress  that 
the  necessary  appropriations  would  be  made,  Abert  was  embarrassed  by  a  sub- 
stantial oversight.  After  the  adjournment  of  Congress,  while  the  expedition 
was  under  way,  it  was  found  that  the  appropriation  for  the  survey  had  "es- 
caped attention."  In  his  annual  report  of  30  Dec.  1839,  it  was  necessary  for 
Abert  to  plead  for  the  money,  and  to  suggest  that  funds  be  provided  for  ad- 
ditional surveys.  "Our  operations  have  been  heretofore  limited  to  the  region 
north  of  the  Missouri  and  west  of  the  Mississippi  but  not  extending  west- 
wardly  to  the  Rocky  mountains.  It  is  extremely  desirable  that  means  to  fill 
up  the  hiatus  south  of  the  Missouri  and  to  extend  the  observations  to  the 
Rocky  mountains  should  now  be  granted.  It  would  really  be  questioning  the 
known  intelligence  of  the  country  were  one  to  reason  upon  the  advantages  of 
correct  geographical  knowledge,  or  of  the  national  benefit  of  obtaining  now 
in  time  of  peace,  a  knowledge  of  so  vast  a  region  bordering  upon  so  extensive 
a  line  of  our  settlements  inhabited  by  a  numerous,  warlike  and  well-armed 
race  .  .  ."  (Abert  to  Sec.  of  War,  DNA-77,  LS,  3:399-400).  Thus  the  Bureau 
of  Topographical  Engineers  began  to  maneuver  for  the  authority  which 
would  send  JCF  to  the  Rockies  in  1842. 


18.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Joseph  N.  Nicollet 

Bureau  of  Topi  Engins. 
Washington,  Mrch  4th  1839 
Sir 

I  am  directed  by  the  Hon.  Secretary  of  War  to  inform  you  that 
your  plan  of  operations  for  the  ensuing  year  as  indicated  in  your  let- 
ter of  the  9th  Jany.  to  Lt.  Fremont  is  fully  approved.  Arrangements 
to  make  the  same  effectual  have  been  adopted  as  you  will  be  ap- 
prized by  a  letter  of  the  2d.  instt.  to  Lt.  Fremont  sent  open  to  you  for 
your  perusal. 

The  circulars  you  desire  to  have  from  the  commandg.  general  and 
from  the  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs  are  herewith  inclosed. 
Respectfy, 

J.  J.  Abert  CI.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  3:100).  The  nature  of  the  circulars  Nicollet  had  asked 
for  is  not  known. 

47 


19.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topi.  Engineers 
Washington,  March  5th  1839 
Sir. 

Before  your  departure  with  the  expedition  of  the  present  year,  you 
will  transmit  to  the  Bureau  your  accounts  &  vouchers  to  the  time  of 
your  present  expenditures,  in  order  that  the  balances  with  which  you 
stand  charged  may  be  reduced  as  much  as  possible,  and  in  order  to 
save  from  the  hazard  of  the  contemplated  expedition  the  evidences 
of  the  expenditures  which  you  have  already  made. 

In  addition  to  the  advice  given  in  my  letter  of  the  2d  instt.  in  ref- 
erence to  your  accounts  allow  me  also  to  advise  that  you  provide 
yourself  with  full  explanation  of  expenditures  of  an  unusual  kind, 
and  correct  statements  of  the  circumstances  under  which  presents 
are  made  to  Indians  that  in  all  cases  in  which  the  discretionary  au- 
thority of  the  Department  has  to  be  invoked  in  favour  of  a  voucher 
every  desirable  explanation  may  be  submitted  to  its  consideration. 
Respectfy, 

J.  J.  Abert  Cl.  T.  E. 

Lbk(DNA-77,LS,  3:101). 


20.  Fremont  to  Henry  H.  Sibley 

St.  Louis  April  4th.  1839 
My  Dear  Sir 

We  leave  this  place  today  in  the  steamboat  Antelope  for  the  Mis- 
souri River,  intending  if  possible  to  be  at  Lac  qui  Parle  by  the  end  of 
June  where  Mr.  Nicollet  requests  me  to  say,  he  shall  be  most  happy 
to  see  you. 

He  intends  proceeding  from  that  place  directly  to  Devil's  Lake. 
Our  party  will  be  composed  of  the  same  persons  as  last  year  with  the 
exception  of  Mr.  Flandin  who  came  with  us  as  far  as  St.  Louis  but 
left  us  there  having  a  fine  opportunity  of  going  to  Europe  where  he 
may  spend  some  few  years.^ 

48 


We  have  left  in  charge  of  Messrs.  P.  Chouteau  &  Co.  a  case  di- 
rected to  you  in  which  you  will  find  two  Boxes  of  Cigars,  which  we 
send  you  to  smoke  with  your  friends,  as  I  have  heard  of  no  steam- 
boat going  up  your  way  &  suppose  you  must  be  in  want  of  Cigars — 
also  a  small  Box  directed  to  J.  Renville  at  Lac  qui  Parle.  All  the 
gentlemen  of  our  party  unite  in  tending  you  their  warmest  remem- 
brances &  hope  to  see  you  in  July  at  Renvilles.  You  must  not  fail  to 
come — previously  to  that  time  you  will  hear  from  us  again  in  which 
we  will  be  able  to  fix  a  more  definite  period.  Very  Respy.  yr.  obt. 

servt., 

C.  Fremont 

ALS,  RC  (MnHi— Sibley  Papers).  Addressed  to  Sibley  at  Fort  Snelling. 
Endorsed. 

1.  If  Flandin  did  go  to  Europe,  he  had  returned  by  1843,  for  in  that  year  he 
was  in  his  father's  New  York  store  furnishing  foodstuffs  to  JCF  for  his  second 
western  expedition  (DNA-217,  T-135,  voucher  no.  2,  3  March  1843). 


21.  George  M.  Brooke  to  Fremont 


Fort  Crawford  April  4th  1839. 
My  Dear  Sir 

I  had  the  pleasure,  to  receive,  this  morning,  your  letter  of  the  19th 
Ultimo,  and  have  sent  the  things  by  the  [Lamden?]  accordingly, 
and  hope  they  may  arrive  in  time.  I  have  enclosed  the  bill  of  lading, 
in  this  letter,  as  it  is  sent  by  a  friend  of  mine,  who  will  put  it  in  the 
post  office,  as  I  do  not  know,  at  what  house  you  may  lodge.  I  am 
sorry  to  say,  that  I  did  not  succeed,  in  the  transfer  of  Lt.  [?],  and  of 
course,  that  we  have  been  deprived  of  their  society.  I  regret  to  in- 
form you,  of  the  death  of  Capt.  Lacey^  on  the  1st  Inst. 

We  have  been  well  enough,  this  winter,  no  visitors  &  very  little 
news. 

Please  make  my  best  regards  to  Mr.  Nicollet,  and  the  Gentlemen, 
with  you.  Wishing  you  all,  a  pleasant,  and  safe  tour  I  remain  very 
much  yr.  friend, 

Geo.  M.  Brooke 

ALS,  RC  (CU-B — Fremont  Papers).  Addressed,  "For  Lt.  C.  Fremont,  to  the 
care  of  Pratte  &  Chouteau,  St.  Louis"  with  the  added  notation,  "Favd.  by  Mr. 

49 


W.  Wright."  Wright  operated  a  ferry  across  the  Wisconsin  near  Prairie  du 
Chien.  Brig.-Gen.  George  M.  Brooke,  who  was  to  sit  on  the  court-martial 
board  which  tried  JCF  in  1847-48,  was  at  this  time  commanding  Fort  Craw- 
ford, the  military  post  at  Prairie  du  Chien.  He  may  have  met  the  young  lieu- 
tenant in  1838,  when  the  Nicollet  expedition  stopped  at  his  post,  although  he 
was  absent  from  the  fort  during  the  spring  of  1838  and  again  in  November 
when  JCF  was  there  (mahan,  218-19). 

1.  Capt.  Edgar  Martin  Lacey,  5th  Infantry,  commanded  Fort  Crawford  in 
Nov.  1838  while  General  Brooke  was  absent  (mahan,  332).  He  died  2  April 
1839,  according  to  heitman. 


22.  Excerpt  from  the  Memoirs 

[1839] 

A  partial  equipment  for  the  expedition  to  the  northwest  prairies 
was  obtained  in  St.  Louis.  Arrangements  had  previously  been  made 
at  Lac  qui  parle,  during  the  preceding  journey,  for  a  reinforcement 
of  men  to  meet  the  party  at  an  appointed  time  on  Riviere  a  Jacques 
[James  River],  a  tributary  to  the  Missouri  River,  At  St.  Louis  five 
men  were  engaged,  four  of  them  experienced  in  prairie  and  moun- 
tain travel;  one  of  them  Etienne  Provost,  known  as  Vhomme  des 
montagnes.  The  other  man  was  Louis  Zindel,  who  had  seen  service 
as  a  non-commissioned  officer  of  Prussian  artillery,  and  was  skilled 
in  making  rockets  and  fireworks.^  We  left  St.  Louis  early  in  April, 
1839,  on  board  the  Antelope,  one  of  the  American  Fur  Company's 
steamboats,  which,  taking  its  customary  advantage  of  the  annual  rise 
in  the  Missouri  from  the  snows  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  was  about 
starting  on  its  regular  voyage  to  the  trading-post  on  the  upper  waters 
of  the  river.^ 

For  nearly  two  months  and  a  half  we  were  struggling  against  the 
current  of  the  turbid  river,  which  in  that  season  of  high  waters  was 
so  swift  and  strong  that  sometimes  the  boat  would  for  moments 
stand  quite  still,  seeming  to  pause  to  gather  strength,  until  the  power 
of  steam  asserted  itself  and  she  would  fight  her  way  into  a  smooth 
reach.  In  places  the  river  was  so  embarrassed  with  snags  that  it  was 
difficult  to  thread  a  way  among  them  in  face  of  the  swift  current  and 
treacherous  channel,  constantly  changing.  Under  these  obstacles  we 
usually  laid  up  at  night,  making  fast  to  the  shore  at  some  convenient 
place,  where  the  crew  could  cut  a  supply  of  wood  for  the  next  day.  It 

50 


was  a  pleasant  journey,  as  little  disturbed  as  on  the  ocean.  Once 
above  the  settlements  of  the  lower  Missouri,  there  were  no  sounds  to 
disturb  the  stillness  but  the  echoes  of  the  high-pressure  steam-pipe, 
which  travelled  far  along  and  around  the  shores,  and  the  incessant 
crumbling  away  of  the  banks  and  bars,  which  the  river  was  steadily 
undermining  and  destroying  at  one  place  to  build  up  at  another. 
The  stillness  was  an  impressive  feature,  and  the  constant  change  in 
the  character  of  the  river  shores  offered  always  new  interest  as  we 
steamed  along.  At  times  we  travelled  by  high  perpendicular  escarp- 
ments of  light  colored  rock,  a  gray  and  yellow  marl,  made  pictur- 
esque by  shrubbery  or  trees;  at  others  the  river  opened  out  into  a 
broad  delta-like  expanse,  as  if  it  were  approaching  the  sea.  At 
length,  on  the  seventieth  day  we  reached  Fort  Pierre,  the  chief  post 
of  the  American  Fur  Company.'^  This  is  on  the  right  or  western  bank 
of  the  river,  about  one  thousand  and  three  hundred  miles  from  St. 
Louis.  On  the  prairie,  a  few  miles  away,  was  a  large  village  of  Yank- 
ton Sioux.  Here  we  were  in  the  heart  of  the  Indian  country  and  near 
the  great  Buffalo  ranges.  Here  the  Indians  were  sovereign. 

This  was  to  be  our  starting-point  for  an  expedition  northward 
over  the  great  prairies,  to  the  British  line.  Some  weeks  were  spent 
in  making  the  remaining  preparations,  in  establishing  the  position 
and  writing  up  journals,  and  in  negotiations  with  the  Indians.  After 
the  usual  courtesies  had  been  exchanged  our  first  visit  to  their  vil- 
lage was  arranged.  On  our  way  we  were  met  by  thirty  of  the  prin- 
cipal chiefs,  mounted  and  advancing  in  line.  A  noble-looking  set  of 
men  showing  to  the  best  advantage,  their  fine  shoulders  and  breasts 
being  partly  uncovered.  We  were  conducted  by  them  to  the  village, 
where  we  were  received  with  great  ceremony  by  other  chiefs,  and  all 
their  people  gathered  to  meet  us.  We  were  taken  into  a  large  and 
handsome  lodge  and  given  something  to  eat,  an  observance  with- 
out which  no  Indian  welcome  is  complete.  The  village  covered  some 
acres  of  ground,  and  the  lodges  were  pitched  in  regular  lines.  These 
were  large,  of  about  twenty  skins  or  more.  The  girls  were  noticeably 
well  clothed,  wearing  finely  dressed  skins  nearly  white,  much  em- 
broidered with  beads  and  porcupine  quills  dyed  many  colors;  and 
stufifs  from  the  trading-post  completed  their  dress.  These  were  the 
best  formed  and  best  looking  Indians  of  the  plains,  having  the  free 
bearing  belonging  with  their  unrestrained  life  in  sunshine  and  open 
air.  Their  mode  of  life  had  given  them  the  uniform  and  smooth  de- 
velopment of  breast  and  limb  which  indicates  power,  without  knots 

51 


of  exaggerated  muscle,  and  the  copper-bronze  of  their  skins,  burnt 
in  by  many  suns,  increased  the  statue-hke  effect.  The  buffalo  and 
other  game  being  near,  gave  them  abundant  food  and  means  to  ob- 
tain from  the  trading-post  what  to  them  were  luxuries. 

Having  made  the  customary  and  expected  presents  which  ratified 
the  covenants  of  good  will  and  free  passage  over  their  country,  we 
left  the  village,  escorted  half-way  by  the  chiefs. 

A  few  days  after  our  visit  to  the  village,  one  of  the  chiefs  came  to 
the  fort,  bringing  with  him  a  pretty  girl  of  about  eighteen,  hand- 
somely dressed  after  the  manner  I  have  described.  Accompanied  by 
her  and  the  interpreter,  he  came  to  the  room  opening  on  the  court 
where  we  were  employed  over  our  sketch-books  and  maps,  and 
formally  offered  her  to  Mr.  Nicollet  as  a  wife  for  him.  This  placed 
our  chief  for  a  moment  in  an  embarrassing  position.  But,  with  ready 
and  crafty  tact  he  explained  to  the  chief  that  he  already  had  one,  and 
that  the  Great  Father  would  not  permit  him  to  have  two.  At  the 
same  time  suggesting  that  the  younger  chief,  designating  me,  had 
none.  This  put  me  in  a  worse  situation.  But  being  at  bay,  I  promptly 
replied  that  I  was  going  far  away  and  not  coming  back,  and  did  not 
like  to  take  the  girl  away  from  her  people;  that  it  might  bring  bad 
luck;  but  that  I  was  greatly  pleased  with  the  offer,  and  to  show  that 
I  was  so,  would  give  the  girl  a  suitable  present.  Accordingly,  an  at- 
tractive package  of  scarlet  and  blue  cloths,  beads,  a  mirror,  and  other 
trifles  was  made  up,  and  they  left  us;  the  girl  quite  satisfied  with  her 
trousseau,  and  he  with  other  suitable  presents  made  him.  Meantime 
we  had  been  interested  by  the  composure  of  the  girl's  manner,  who 
during  the  proceedings  had  been  quietly  leaning  against  the  door- 
post, apparently  not  ill-pleased  with  the  matrimonial  conference. 

All  was  now  ready.  The  rating  of  the  chronometers  had  been  veri- 
fied. Our  observations  had  placed  Fort  Pierre  in  latitude,  44°  23'  28'', 
longitude,  100°  12'  30",  and  elevation  above  the  sea  1456  feet.  Horses, 
carts,  and  provisions  had  been  obtained  at  the  fort  and  six  men 
added  to  the  party;  Mr.  May,  of  Kentucky,  and  a  young  man  from 
Pembinah  had  joined  us.  They  were  on  their  way  to  the  British 
Colony  of  the  Red  River  of  the  North.  William  Dixon  and  Louison 
Freniere  had  been  engaged  as  interpreters  and  guides.  Both  of  these 
were  half-breeds,  well  known  as  fine  horsemen  and  famous  hunters, 
as  well  as  most  experienced  guides.  The  party  now  consisted  of  nine- 
teen persons,  thirty-three  horses,  and  ten  carts.  With  Mr.  Nicollet, 
Mr.  Geyer,  who  was  again  our  botanist,  and  myself,  was  an  officer  of 

52 


the  French  army,  Captain  BelUgny,  who  wished  to  use  so  good  an  oc- 
casion to  see  the  Indian  country/  We  reached  the  eastern  shore  with 
all  our  equipage  in  good  order,  and  made  camp  for  the  night  at  the 
foot  of  the  river  hills  opposite  the  fort.  The  hills  leading  to  the  prai- 
rie plateau,  about  five  hundred  feet  above  the  river,  were  rough  and 
broken  into  ravines.  We  had  barely  reached  the  upland  when  the 
hunters  came  galloping  in,  and  the  shout  of  la  vac  he!  la  vachel  rang 
through  the  camp,  everyone  repeating  it,  and  everyone  excited. 

A  herd  of  buffalo  had  been  discovered,  coming  down  to  water.  In 
a  few  moments  the  buffalo  horses  were  saddled  and  the  hunters 
mounted,  each  with  a  smooth-bore,  single  or  double-barrelled  gun, 
a  handkerchief  bound  fillet-like  around  the  head,  and  all  in  the 
scantiest  clothing.  Conspicuous  among  them  were  Dixon  and  Lou- 
ison.  To  this  latter  I  then,  and  thereafter,  attached  myself. 

My  horse  was  a  good  one,  an  American,  but  grass-fed  and  prairie- 
bred.  Whether  he  had  gained  his  experience  among  the  whites  or 
Indians  I  do  not  know,  but  he  was  a  good  hunter  and  knew  about 
buffalo,  and  badger  holes  as  well,  and  when  he  did  get  his  foot  into 
one  it  was  not  his  fault. 

Now  I  was  to  see  the  buffalo.  This  was  an  event  on  which  my 
imagination  had  been  dwelling.  I  was  about  to  realize  the  tales  the 
mere  telling  of  which  was  enough  to  warm  the  taciturn  Renville 
into  enthusiastic  expression,  and  to  rouse  all  the  hunter  in  the  ex- 
citable Freniere. 

The  prairie  over  which  we  rode  was  rolling,  and  we  were  able  to 
keep  well  to  leeward  and  out  of  sight  of  the  herd.  Riding  silently  up 
a  short  slope,  we  came  directly  upon  them.  Not  a  hundred  yards  be- 
low us  was  the  great,  compact  mass  of  animals,  moving  slowly 
along,  feeding  as  they  went,  and  making  the  loud  incessant  grunt- 
ing noise  peculiar  to  them.  There  they  were. 

The  moment's  pause  that  we  made  on  the  summit  of  the  slope 
was  enough  to  put  the  herd  in  motion.  Instantly  as  we  rose  the  hill, 
they  saw  us.  There  was  a  sudden  halt,  a  confused  wavering  move- 
ment, and  then  a  headlong  rout;  the  hunters  in  their  midst.  How  I 
got  down  that  short  hillside  I  never  knew.  From  the  moment  I  saw 
the  herd  I  never  saw  the  ground  again  until  all  was  over.  I  remem- 
ber, as  the  charge  was  made,  seeing  the  bulls  in  the  rear  turn,  then 
take  a  few  bounds  forward,  and  then,  turning  for  a  last  look,  join 
the  headlong  flight. 

As  they  broke  into  the  herd  the  hunters  separated.  For  some  in- 

53 


stants  I  saw  them  as  they  showed  through  the  clouds  of  dust,  but  I 
scarcely  noticed  them.  I  was  finding  out  what  it  was  to  be  a  prairie 
hunter.  We  were  only  some  few  miles  from  the  river,  hardly  clear  of 
the  breaks  of  the  hills,  and  in  places  the  ground  still  rough.  But  the 
only  things  visible  to  me  in  our  flying  course  were  the  buffalo  and 
the  dust,  and  there  was  tumult  in  my  breast  as  well  as  around  me. 
I  made  repeated  ineffectual  attempts  to  steady  myself  for  a  shot  at  a 
cow  after  a  hard  struggle  to  get  up  with  her;  and  each  time  barely 
escaped  a  fall.  In  such  work  a  man  must  be  able  to  forget  his  horse, 
but  my  horsemanship  was  not  yet  equal  to  such  a  proof.  At  the  out- 
set, when  the  hunters  had  searched  over  the  herd  and  singled  out 
each  his  fattest  cow,  and  made  his  dash  upon  her,  the  herd  broke 
into  bands  which  spread  over  the  plain.  I  clung  to  that  where  I 
found  myself,  unwilling  to  give  up,  until  I  found  that  neither  horse 
nor  man  could  bear  the  strain  longer.  Only  some  straggling  groups 
were  in  sight,  loping  slowly  off,  seemingly  conscious  that  the  chase 
was  over.  I  dismounted  and  reloaded,  and  sat  down  on  the  grass  for 
a  while  to  give  us  both  a  rest.  I  could  nowhere  see  any  of  my  com- 
panions, and,  except  that  it  lay  somewhere  to  the  south  of  where  I 
was,  I  had  no  idea  where  to  look  for  the  camp.  The  sun  was  getting 
low,  and  I  decided  to  ride  directly  west,  thinking  that  I  might  reach 
the  river  hills  above  the  fort  while  there  was  light  enough  for  me  to 
find  our  trail  of  the  morning.  In  this  way  I  could  not  miss  the  camp, 
but  for  the  time  being  I  was  lost. 

My  horse  was  tired  and  I  rode  slowly.  He  was  to  be  my  compan- 
ion and  reliance  in  a  long  journey,  and  I  would  not  press  him.  The 
sun  went  down,  and  there  was  no  sign  that  the  river  was  near. 
While  it  was  still  light  an  antelope  came  circling  round  me,  but  I 
would  not  fire  at  him.  His  appearance  and  strange  conduct  seemed 
uncanny  but  companionable,  and  the  echo  to  my  gun  might  not  be  a 
pleasant  one.  Long  after  dark  I  struck  upon  a  great  number  of  paths, 
deeply  worn,  and  running  along  together  in  a  broad  roadway.  They 
were  leading  directly  toward  the  river,  and  I  supposed,  to  the  fort. 
With  my  anxieties  all  relieved  I  was  walking  contentedly  along, 
when  I  suddenly  recognized  that  these  were  buffalo-trails  leading  to 
some  accustomed  great  watering-place.  The  discovery  was  some- 
thing of  a  shock,  but  I  gathered  myself  together  and  walked  on.  I 
had  been  for  some  time  leading  my  horse.  Toward  midnight  I 
reached  the  breaks  of  the  river  hills  at  a  wooded  ravine,  and  just 
then  I  saw  a  rocket  shoot  up  into  the  sky,  far  away  to  the  south. 

54 


That  was  camp,  but  apparently  some  fifteen  miles  distant,  impossible 
for  me  to  reach  by  the  rough  way  in  the  night  around  the  ravines. 
So  I  led  my  horse  to  the  brink  of  the  ravine,  and  going  down  I 
found  water,  which,  a  plusieurs  reprises,  I  brought  up  to  him,  using 
my  straw  hat  for  a  bucket.  Taking  off  his  saddle  and  bridle,  and 
fastening  him  by  his  long  lariat  to  one  of  the  stirrups,  I  made  a  pil- 
low of  the  saddle  and  slept  soundly  until  morning.  He  did  not  dis- 
turb me  much,  giving  an  occasional  jerk  to  my  pillow,  just  enough 
to  let  me  see  that  all  was  right. 

At  the  first  streak  of  dawn  I  saddled  up.  I  had  laid  my  gun  by 
my  side  in  the  direction  where  I  had  seen  the  rocket,  and  riding 
along  that  way,  the  morning  was  not  far  advanced  when  I  saw  three 
men  riding  toward  me  at  speed.  They  did  not  slacken  their  pace 
until  they  came  directly  up  against  me,  when  the  foremost  touched 
me.  It  was  Louison  Freniere.  A  reward  had  been  promised  by  Mr. 
Nicollet  to  the  first  who  should  touch  me,  and  Louison  won  it.  And 
this  was  the  end  of  my  first  buffalo  hunt. 

The  camp  gathered  around  all  glad  to  see  me.  To  be  lost  on  the 
prairie  in  an  Indian  country  is  a  serious  accident,  involving  many 
chances,  and  no  one  was  disposed  to  treat  it  lightly.  Our  party  was 
made  up  of  men  experienced  in  prairie  and  in  mountain  travel,  ex- 
posed always  to  unforeseen  incidents. 

When  Freniere  left  the  camp  in  search  of  me  he  had  no  hesitation 
about  where  to  look.  In  the  rolling  country  over  which  the  hunt  lay 
it  would  have  been  merely  an  accident  to  find  either  camp  or  water. 
He  knew  I  would  not  venture  the  chance,  but  would  strike  directly 
for  the  river;  and  so  in  leaving  camp  he  kept  the  open  ground  along 
the  heads  of  the  ravines,  confident  that  he  would  either  find  me  or 
my  trail.  He  was  sure  I  would  remain  on  the  open  ground  at  the 
first  water  I  found.  He  knew,  too,  as  I  did  not,  that  from  the  Fort 
the  valley  of  the  river  trended  to  the  northwest,  by  this  increasing 
the  distance  I  had  to  travel;  still  farther  increased  by  a  large  bend  in 
which  the  river  sweeps  ofT  to  the  westward.  On  the  maps  in  com- 
mon use  it  was  nearly  north  and  south,  and  had  it  really  been  so  in 
fact  I  should  have  reached  the  breaks  while  it  was  still  light  enough 
for  me  to  see  the  Fort  or  recognize  our  crossing-place,  and  perhaps 
to  find  my  way  to  the  camp.  All  the  same  I  had  made  an  experience 
and  it  had  ended  well. 

The  camp  equipage  being  carried  in  carts,  and  not  packed  upon 
mules,  the  gearing  up  was  quickly  done;  but  meanwhile  I  had  time 

55 


for  a  fine  piece  of  fat  buffalo-meat  standing  already  roasted  on  a 
stick  before  the  fire,  and  a  tin  cup  of  good  coffee.  My  horse  and  I  did 
a  fair  share  of  walking  on  this  day's  march,  and  at  every  unusually 
good  spot  of  grass  I  took  the  bit  from  his  mouth  and  let  him  have 
the  chance  to  recruit  from  the  night  before. 

We  were  now  on  the  upland  of  the  Coteau  du  Missouri,  here  1,960 
feet  above  the  sea.  Travelling  to  the  northeastward  our  camp  for  the 
night  was  made  by  a  fork  of  the  Medicine  Bow  River  [Medicine 
Creek],  the  last  running  water  our  line  would  cross  until  we  should 
reach  the  waters  of  the  Riviere  a  Jacques  on  the  eastern  slopes  of  the 
plateau.  On  the  open  plains  water  is  found  only  in  ponds;  not  al- 
ways permanent,  and  not  frequent. 

From  the  top  of  the  hill  [Medicine  Butte]  which  gives  its  name 
to  the  stream  where  we  had  encamped  the  view  was  over  great 
stretches  of  level  prairie,  fading  into  the  distant  horizon,  and  un- 
broken except  by  the  many  herds  of  buffalo  which  made  on  it  dark 
spots  that  looked  like  groves  of  timber;  here  and  there  puffs  of  dust 
rising  from  where  the  bulls  were  rolling  or  fighting.  On  these  high 
plains  the  buffalo  feed  contentedly,  and  good  buffalo  grass  usually 
marks  the  range  where  they  are  found.  The  occasional  ponds  give 
them  water,  and,  for  them,  the  rivers  are  never  far  away. 

This  was  the  Fourth  of  July.^  I  doubt  if  any  boy  in  the  country 
found  more  joy  in  his  fireworks  than  I  did  in  my  midnight  rocket 
with  its  silent  message.  Water  and  wood  to-night  were  abundant, 
and  with  plenty  in  camp  and  buffalo  all  around  we  celebrated  our 
independence  of  the  outside  world. 

Some  days  were  now  occupied  in  making  the  crossing  of  the  pla- 
teau; our  line  being  fixed  by  astronomical  positions,  and  the  level 
prairie  required  no  sketching.  I  spent  these  days  with  Freniere 
among  the  buffalo.  Sometimes  when  we  had  gotten  too  far  ahead  of 
our  caravan  it  was  an  enjoyment  to  lie  in  careless  ease  on  the  grass 
by  a  pond  and  be  refreshed  by  the  breeze  which  carried  with  it  the 
fragrance  of  the  prairie.  Edged  with  grasses  growing  into  the  clear 
water,  and  making  a  fresh  border  around  them,  these  resting-spots 
are  rather  lakelets  than  ponds. 

The  grand  simplicity  of  the  prairie  is  its  peculiar  beauty,  and  its 
occurring  events  are  peculiar  and  of  their  own  kind.  The  uniformity 
is  never  sameness,  and  in  his  exhilaration  the  voyager  feels  even  the 
occasional  field  of  red  grass  waving  in  the  breeze  pleasant  to  his  eye. 


56 


And  whatever  the  object  may  be — whether  horseman,  or  antelope, 
or  buffalo — that  breaks  the  distant  outline  of  the  prairie,  the  sur- 
rounding circumstances  are  of  necessity  always  such  as  to  give  it  a 
special  interest.  The  horseman  may  prove  to  be  enemy  or  friend,  but 
the  always  existing  uncertainty  has  its  charm  of  excitement  in  the 
one  case,  and  the  joy  of  the  chase  in  the  other.  There  is  always  the 
suspense  of  the  interval  needed  to  verify  the  strange  object;  and, 
long  before  the  common  man  decides  anything,  the  practised  eye 
has  reached  certainty.  This  was  the  kind  of  lore  in  which  Freniere 
was  skilled,  and  with  him  my  prairie  education  was  continued 
under  a  master.  He  was  a  reckless  rider.  Never  troubling  himself 
about  impediments,  if  the  shortest  way  after  his  buffalo  led  through 
a  pond  through  it  he  plunged.  Going  after  a  band  on  one  of  these 
days  we  came  upon  a  long  stretch  of  shallow  pond  that  we  had  not 
seen,  and  which  was  thickly  sown  with  boulders  half  hidden  in  tall 
grass  and  water.  As  I  started  to  go  around  he  shouted,  "In  there — in! 
Tout  droit!  faut  pas  craindre  le  cheval."  And  in  we  went,  flounder- 
ing through,  happily  without  breaking  bones  of  ourselves  or  our 
horses.  It  was  not  the  horse  that  I  was  afraid  of;  I  did  not  like  that 
bed  of  rocks  and  water. 

Crossing  the  summit  level  of  the  plateau  we  came  in  sight  of  the 
beautiful  valley,  here  about  seventy  miles  broad,  of  the  Riviere  a 
Jacques,  its  scattered  wooded  line  stretching  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach.  Descending  the  slope  we  saw  in  the  distance  ahead  moving 
objects,  soon  recognized  as  horsemen;  and  before  these  could  reach 
us  a  clump  of  lodges  came  into  view.  They  proved  to  be  the  encamp- 
ment of  about  a  hundred  Indians,  to  whom  Dixon  and  Freniere 
were  known  as  traders  of  the  Fur  Company.  After  an  exchange  of 
friendly  greetings  our  camp  was  pitched  near  by.  Such  a  rare  meet- 
ing is  an  exciting  break  in  the  uneventful  Indian  life;  and  the  mak- 
ing of  presents  gave  a  lively  expression  to  the  good  feeling  with 
which  they  received  us,  and  was  followed  by  the  usual  Indian  re- 
joicing. After  a  conference  in  which  our  line  of  travel  was  indicated, 
the  chief  offered  Mr.  Nicollet  an  escort,  the  country  being  uncertain, 
but  the  offer  was  declined.  The  rendezvous  for  our  expected  rein- 
forcement was  not  far  away,  and  Indians  with  us  might  only  prove 
the  occasion  for  an  attack  in  the  event  of  meeting  an  unfriendly 
band.  They  had  plenty  of  good  buffalo-meat  and  the  squaws  had 
gathered  in  a  quantity  of  the  pommes  des  prairies,  or  prairie  turnips 


57 


{Psoralia  esculenta),  which  is  their  chief  vegetable  food,  and  abun- 
dant on  the  prairie.  They  sHce  and  dry  this  for  ordinary  and  winter 
use. 

Travelhng  down  the  slope  of  the  coteau,  in  a  descent  of  750  feet 
we  reached  the  lake  of  "The  Scattered  Small  Wood,"  a  handsome 
but  deceptive  bit  of  water,  agreeable  to  the  eye,  but  with  an  unpleas- 
ant brackish  taste. 

About  two  years  ago  I  received  a  letter,  making  of  me  some  in- 
quiries concerning  this  beautiful  lake  country  of  the  Northwest. 
In  writing  now  of  the  region  over  which  I  had  travelled,  I  propose 
to  speak  of  it  as  I  had  seen  it,  preserving  as  far  as  possible  its  local 
coloring  of  the  time;  shutting  out  what  I  may  have  seen  or  learned 
of  the  changes  years  have  wrought.  But,  since  the  time  of  which  I 
am  writing,  I  have  not  seen  this  country.  Looking  over  it,  in  the 
solitude  where  I  left  it,  its  broad  valleys  and  great  plains  untenanted 
as  I  saw  and  describe  them,  I  think  that  the  curiosity  and  interest 
with  which  I  read  this  letter,  will  also  be  felt  by  any  who  accompany 
me  along  these  pages.  Under  this  impression,  and  because  the  writer 
of  the  letter  had  followed  our  trail  to  this  point — the  "Lake  of  the 
Scattered  Small  Wood" — I  give  it  here: 

"lowA  City,  Ia.,  February  13,  1884. 
....  "This  I  write  feeling  that  as  you  have  devoted  your  life  to 
engineering  and  scientific  pursuits,  it  will  be  at  least  a  gratification 
to  receive  a  letter  upon  such  subjects  as  are  connected  with  what  you 
have  done.  It  has  been  my  fortune  to  locate  and  construct  railway 
lines  for  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern  Railway  in  Minnesota  and 
Dakota,  in  doing  which  I  have  surveyed  not  less  than  three  thou- 
sand miles  of  line,  and  in  so  doing  have  passed  over  a  very  large  extent 
of  the  surface  of  that  region.  While  doing  this  work  I  have  been  led 
to  inquire  into  the  climate  of  that  remarkable  region.  I  visited  many 
places  which  you  in  1838  discovered  and  named.  Among  these  are 
Lakes  Benton  and  Hendricks,  the  first  about  twenty  miles  north  of 
the  famous  'Red  Pipe  Stone  Quarry,'  a  very  fine  sheet  of  water, 
along  the  south  shore  of  which  I  located  the  railroad,  and  there  has 
sprung  up  a  fine  town  called  Lake  Benton.  West  of  this,  in  Dakota, 
and  on  the  west  side  of  the  Big  Sioux  River,  is  a  lake  region,  to 
many  of  the  lakes  in  which  you  gave  names,  and  it  is  to  this  locality 
that  I  wish  to  particularly  call  your  attention.  These  lakes  bear  the 
names   of   Thompson,   Whitewood,    Preston,    Te-tonka-ha,    Abert 

58 


(now  changed  to  Albert),  Poinsett,  and  Kampeska.  The  last  named 
is  at  the  head  of  the  Big  Sioux,  and  Poinsett  a  few  miles  to  the  south- 
ward. 

"When  I  constructed  the  Dakota  Central  Railway  in  1879-80,  all 
these  lakes  excepting  Thompson,  Poinsett,  and  Kampeska,  were  dry; 
and  it  took  me  a  long  time  and  no  small  research  to  ascertain  when 
they  last  held  water.  They  had  been  known  to  be  dry  for  the  twenty- 
five  years  preceding  1879,  or  at  least  persons  who  had  lived  there  or  in 
the  vicinity  for  twenty-five  years  said  that  the  lakes  were  dry  when 
they  came  into  the  locality,  and  had,  with  numerous  smaller  ones, 
been  dry  ever  since;  and  all  who  knew  about  them  had  a  theory 
that  they  had  dried  up  long  since,  and  that  they  never  would  fill 
again ;  but  I  found  old  Frenchmen  who  had  seen  these  lakes  full  of 
water  in  1843-46,  and  I,  in  studying  over  the  matter,  found  that  you 
had  seen  and  named  them  in  1836-38  [1838-39],  and  I  would  thank 
you  very  much  if  you  will  take  the  time  and  trouble  to  describe  them 
to  me  as  you  saw  them  then. 

"I  came  very  near  locating  the  railroad  line  through  Lake  Preston, 
for  the  head  men  of  the  railroad  company  believed  that  it  had  dried 
up  for  all  time;  but  on  my  presenting  the  testimony  of  certain  reli- 
able voyageurs,  they  allowed  me  to  go  around  it.  It  was  well  that 
they  did,  for  the  winter  of  1880-81  gave  a  snow-fall  such  as  had  not 
been  seen  since  the  years  1843-44,  and  in  the  spring  of  1881  all  these 
lakes  filled  up,  bank  full,  and  have  continued  so  ever  since.  I  had  the 
pleasure  of  comparing  my  engineer's  levels  for  elevation  above  the 
sea  with  your  barometer  determination  at  Fort  Pierre  on  the  Mis- 
souri River.  Your  altitude  was  1,450  feet,  mine  was  1,437,  the  differ- 
ence 13  feet.  My  determination  is  within  the  limits  of  —  6  feet. 
The  distance  over  which  my  levels  were  taken  was  680  miles, 
and  were  well  checked.  I  also  followed  up  your  trail  as  you  marched 
from  Fort  Pierre  northeasterly  to  the  'Scattered  Small  Wood  Lake.' 
I  was  so  successful  as  to  verify  your  barometer  reading  in  several  in- 
stances by  checking  with  mine,  and  in  no  case  found  over  15  feet 
difference  between  us,  and  that  always  in  the  same  relation  as  at 
Fort  Pierre.  Hoping  that  you  will  excuse  this  long  letter,  and  that 
you  may  be  able  to  tell  me  if  those  lakes  were  dry  when  you  saw 
them,  or  otherwise,  and  add   any  other  information   you  see  fit, 

"I  am,  truly  yours, 

"C.  W.  Irish,'  C.  E.  " 


59 


The  next  day  we  reached  the  Riviere  a  Jacques,  at  the  Talle  de 
Chenes,  a  clump  of  oaks  which  was  the  rendezvous  where  our  ex- 
pected reinforcement  was  to  meet  us.  The  river  valley  here  is  about 
seventy  miles  wide.  Observations  made  during  the  four  days  that 
we  remained  at  the  Talle  de  Chenes  place  it  in  latitude  45°  16'  34'", 
longitude  98°  7  45",  and  the  elevation  above  the  sea  1,341  feet.  At 
the  end  of  this  time,  no  one  appearing,  the  party  again  took  up  the 
line  of  march,  and,  following  the  right  bank,  on  the  evening  of  the 
14th  encamped  near  the  mouth  of  Elm  River.  This  river  and  its 
forks  are  well  timbered,  and  for  the  reason  that  they  furnish  lire- 
wood  and  shelter,  Indian  hunting  parties  make  it  their  winter  cross- 
ing-place on  the  way  westward  after  buffalo  on  the  Missouri  plateau. 

On  the  high  plains  the  winter  storms  are  dangerous.  Many  tales 
are  told  of  hunters  caught  out  in  a  poudrerie  with  no  timber  near, 
when  it  is  impossible  to  see  one's  way,  and  every  landmark  is  oblit- 
erated or  hidden  by  the  driving  snow.  At  such  times  the  hunter 
has  no  other  resource  than  to  dig  for  himself  a  hole  in  the  snow, 
leaving  only  a  breathing-place  above  his  head,  and  to  remain  in  it 
wrapped  in  his  blankets  until  the  storm  passes  over;  when,  putting 
on  the  dry  socks  and  moccasins  which  he  always  carries,  he  makes 
for  the  nearest  wood. 

The  bufifalo  herds,  when  caught  in  such  storms  and  no  timber  in 
sight,  huddle  together  in  compact  masses,  all  on  the  outside  crowd- 
ing and  fighting  to  get  to  the  inside;  and  so,  kept  warm  by  the 
struggling,  incessant  motion,  the  snow  meanwhile  being  stamped 
away  under  their  feet,  protect  themselves  from  the  fiercest  storms. 

For  several  days  we  travelled  up  the  valley  of  the  Jacques,  making 
astronomical  stations,  and  collecting  material  for  Mr.  Nicollet's 
map.  Occasionally,  to  the  same  end,  I  was  detached,  with  Dixon  or 
Freniere,  on  topographical  excursions,  which  gave  me  a  good  gen- 
eral knowledge  of  the  country  along  the  route.  At  the  Butte  aux  Os 
(Bone  Hill),  in  latitude  46°  2/37",  longitude  98°  8'  elevation  above 
the  sea  1,400  feet,  we  left  the  Riviere  a  Jacques,  or  Chaii-sansan ,  its 
valley  extending  apparently  far  in  a  course  to  west  of  north,  and  in 
a  few  miles  we  reached  the  height  of  land  which  separates  it  from 
the  Shayen  [Sheyenne]  River.  This  is  a  tributary  to  the  Red  River 
of  the  North,  and  was  formerly  the  home  of  the  Shayens,  to-day 
written  Cheyennes.  In  the  incessant  wars  between  the  various  tribes 
of  this  region  the  Shayens  were  driven  from  their  country  over  the 
Missouri  River  south  to  where  they  now  are. 

6o 


The  summit  of  the  plateau  was  only  1,460  feet  above  the  sea.  Here 
we  regained  the  great  prairie  plains,  and  here  we  saw  in  their  mag- 
nificent multitudes  the  grand  buffalo  herds  on  their  chief  range. 
They  were  moving  southwestwardly,  apparently  toward  the  plains 
of  the  upper  Missouri.  For  three  days  we  were  in  their  midst,  travel- 
ling through  them  by  day  and  surrounded  by  them  at  night.  We 
could  not  avoid  them.  Evidently  some  disturbing  cause  had  set  them 
in  motion  from  the  north.  It  was  necessary  to  hobble  some  of  our 
animals  and  picket  them  all,  and  keep  them  close  in  to  prevent  any 
of  them  from  making  off  with  the  buffalo,  when  they  would  have 
been  irretrievably  lost.  Working  through  the  herds  it  was  decided, 
in  order  to  get  more  out  of  their  way,  to  make  a  temporary  halt  for 
a  day  or  two  on  the  Tampa,  a  small  stream  flowing  into  the  Shayen. 
On  the  second  day  after,  Dixon  and  Freniere  came  in  with  three 
Indians  from  a  party  which  had  been  reconnoitring  our  camp.  They 
belonged  to  a  hunting  village  of  some  three  hundred  lodges,  who 
were  out  making  buffalo-meat  and  were  just  about  arranging  for  a 
grand  "surround."  It  would  have  been  dangerous  to  risk  breaking 
in  upon  this,  as  might  easily  happen  in  our  ignorance  of  the  locality 
and  their  plans.  To  avert  mischief  Freniere,  on  the  third  day,  rode 
over  to  the  village  with  a  message  requesting  their  chiefs  to  indicate 
the  time  and  route  for  our  march.  In  consequence  we  were  invited 
to  come  on  to  their  encampment.  Pushing  our  way  through  the 
crowds  of  buffalo,  we  were  met  in  the  afternoon  by  two  of  the  chiefs 
who  escorted  us  to  the  village  and  pointed  out  the  place  for  our 
camp.  We  found  the  encampment  made  up  of  about  three  hundred 
lodges  of  various  tribes — Yanktons,  Yankton [ais],  and  Sissitons — 
making  about  two  thousand  Indians. 

The  representations  of  our  guides  had  insured  us  a  most  friendly 
reception.  We  were  invited  to  eat  in  the  lodges  of  different  chiefs; 
the  choicest,  fattest  pieces  of  buffalo  provided  for  us,  and  in  return 
they  were  invited  to  eat  at  our  camp.  The  chiefs  sat  around  in  a 
large  circle  on  buffalo  robes  or  blankets,  each  provided  with  a  deep 
soup  plate  and  spoon  of  tin.  The  first  dish  was  a  generous  pot-au-feu, 
principally  of  fat  bufl^alo  meat  and  rice.  No  one  would  begin  until 
all  the  plates  were  filled.  When  all  was  ready  the  feast  began.  With 
the  first  mouthful  each  Indian  silently  laid  down  his  spoon,  and 
each  looked  at  the  other.  After  a  pause  of  bewilderment  the  inter- 
preter succeeded  in  having  the  situation  understood.  Mr.  Nicollet 
had  put  among  our  provisions  some  Swiss  cheese,  and  to  give  flavor 

6i 


to  the  soup  a  liberal  portion  of  this  had  been  put  into  the  kettles. 
Until  this  strange  flavor  was  accounted  for  the  Indians  thought  they 
were  being  poisoned;  but,  the  cheese  being  shown  to  them,  and  ex- 
planation made,  confidence  was  restored;  and  by  the  aid  of  several 
kettles  of  water  well  sweetened  with  molasses,  and  such  other  tempt- 
ing delicatessen  as  could  be  produced  from  our  stores,  the  dinner 
party  went  on  and  terminated  in  great  good  humor  and  general 
satisfaction. 

The  next  day  they  made  their  surround.  This  was  their  great 
summer  hunt  when  a  provision  of  meat  was  made  for  the  year,  the 
winter  hunting  being  in  smaller  parties.  The  meat  of  many  fat  cows 
was  brought  in,  and  the  low  scaffolds  on  which  it  was  laid  to  be  sun- 
dried  were  scattered  over  all  the  encampment.  No  such  occasion  as 
this  was  to  be  found  for  the  use  of  presents,  and  the  liberal  gifts  dis- 
tributed through  the  village  heightened  their  enjoyment  of  the  feast- 
ing and  dancing,  which  was  prolonged  through  the  night.  Friendly 
relations  established,  we  continued  our  journey. 

Having  laid  down  the  course  of  the  river  by  astronomical  stations, 
during  three  days'  travel;  we  crossed  to  the  left  bank  and  directed 
our  road  toward  the  Devil's  Lake,  which  was  the  ultimate  object  of 
the  expedition.  The  Indian  name  of  the  lake  is  Mini-wakan,  the  En- 
chanted Water;  converted  by  the  whites  into  Devil's  Lake. 

Our  observations  placed  the  river  where  we  left  it  in  latitude  47 
46' 29",  longitude  98°  13' 30",  and  elevation  above  the  sea  1,328  feet; 
the  level  of  the  bordering  plateaus  being  about  one  hundred  and 
sixty  feet  above  the  river. 

In  our  journey  along  this  river,  mosquitoes  had  infested  the  camp 
in  such  swarms  and  such  pertinacity  that  the  animals  would  quit 
feeding  and  come  up  to  the  fires  to  shelter  themselves  in  the  smoke. 
So  virulent  were  they  that  to  eat  in  any  quiet  was  impossible,  and  we 
found  it  necessary  to  use  the  long  green  veils,  which  to  this  end  had 
been  recommended  to  us  by  the  fur  traders.  Tied  around  our  straw 
hats  the  brims  kept  the  veils  from  our  faces,  making  a  space  within 
which  the  plates  could  be  held;  and  behind  these  screens  we  con- 
trived to  eat  without  having  the  food  uncomfortably  flavored  by 
mosquito  sauce  piquante. 

After  a  short  day's  march  of  fourteen  miles  we  made  our  first 
camp  on  this  famous  war  and  hunting  ground,  four  miles  from  the 
Mini-wa\an.  Early  in  the  day's  march  we  had  caught  sight  of  the 
woods  and  hills  bordering  the  lake,  among  them  being  conspicuous 

62 


a  heart-shaped  hill  near  the  southern  shore.  The  next  day  after  an 
hour's  march  we  pitched  our  camp  at  the  head  of  a  deep  bay  not  far 
from  this  hill.  To  this  the  Indians  have  given  the  name  of  the 
"Heart  of  the  Enchanted  Water','  by  the  v^^hites  translated  "Heart  of 
the  Devil's  Lake." 

At  a  wooden  lake  of  fresh  water  near  last  night's  camp  on  the 
plateau  we  had  found  traces  of  a  large  encampment  which  had  been 
recently  abandoned.  The  much-trodden  ground  and  trails  all  round 
showed  that  a  large  party  had  been  here  for  several  weeks.  From 
many  cart-wheel  tracks  and  other  signs  our  guides  recognized  it  as 
a  hunting  camp  of  the  Metis,  or  Bois-Brules,  of  the  Red  River  of  the 
North;  and  the  deep  ruts  cut  by  the  wheels  showed  that  the  carts 
had  received  their  full  load,  and  that  the  great  hunt  of  the  year  was 
over.  It  was  this  continuous  and  widespread  hunt  that  had  put  in 
motion  the  great  herds  through  which  we  had  passed. 

Among  other  interesting  features  of  the  northwest  we  had  heard 
much  from  our  guides  about  these  people  and  their  buffalo  hunts; 
and  to  have  just  missed  them  by  a  few  days  only  was  quite  a  dis- 
appointment. 

The  home  of  the  Half-breeds  is  at  Pembina  in  British  North 
America.  They  are  called  indifferently  Metis  or  Half-breeds,  Bois- 
Brules,  and  Gens  litres  or  Free  People  of  the  North.  The  Half- 
breeds  themselves  are  in  greater  part  the  descendants  of  French 
Canadian  traders  and  others  who,  in  the  service  of  the  Fur  Com- 
pany, and  principally  of  the  Northwest  Company  of  Montreal,  had 
been  stationed  at  their  remote  forts,  or  scattered  over  the  northwest 
Indian  country  in  gathering  furs.  These  usually  took  local  wives 
from  among  the  Indian  women  of  the  different  tribes,  and  their 
half  Indian  children  grew  up  to  a  natural  life  of  hunting  and  kin- 
dred pursuits,  in  which  their  instincts  gave  them  unusual  skill. 

The  Canadian  engages  of  the  company  who  had  remained  in  the 
country  after  their  term  of  service  had  expired  were  called  Free 
Canadians;  and,  from  their  association  with  the  Half-breeds  came 
also  the  name  of  Gens  litres.  They  were  prominently  concerned  in  a 
singular  event  which  occurred  in  British  America  about  a  quarter  of 
a  century  before  the  time  of  which  I  am  writing.  In  the  rivalry  be- 
tween the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  and  the  Northwest  Fur  and 
Trading  Company  of  Montreal,  the  Half-breeds  were  used  by  the 
Northwest  Company  in  their  successful  attempts  to  destroy  a  Scotch 
colony  which  had  been  planted  by  the  Earl  of  Selkirk^  on  the  Red 

63 


River  of  the  North  at  its  confluence  with  the  Assiniboine,  about 
forty  miles  above  Lake  Winnipeg.  The  colony  was  founded  upon  a 
grant  of  land  made  to  the  Earl  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  in 
1811;  and  about  a  hundred  immigrants  were  settled  at  the  Forks  in 
1812,  reaching  to  some  two  hundred  in  1814.  This  was  called  the 
Kildonan  settlement,  from  a  parish  in  the  County  of  Sutherland 
which  had  been  the  home  of  the  immigrants.  In  August  of  1815  it  was 
entirely  broken  up  by  the  Northwest  Company,  and  the  settlers 
driven  away  and  dispersed.  During  the  following  winter  and  spring 
the  colony  was  re-established,  and  in  prosperous  condition  when  it  was 
attacked  by  a  force  of  Half-breeds,  under  officers  of  the  Northwest 
Company,  and  some  twenty  unresisting  persons  killed;  includ- 
ing Mr.  [Robert]  Semple,  the  Governor  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany and  five  of  his  officers.  In  the  course  of  this  contest  there  were 
acts  of  a  savage  brutality,  not  repugnant,  perhaps,  to  the  usages  of 
the  Indian  country  where  they  were  perpetrated,  but  unknown 
among  civilized  men.  The  opposition  made  to  the  colony  by  the 
Northwest  Company  was  for  the  declared  reason  that  "Colonization 
was  unfavorable  to  the  Fur  Trade:"  their  policy  was  to  hold  the 
great  part  of  a  continent  as  a  game  preserve  for  the  benefit  solely  of 
their  trade. 

The  colony  was  revived  when  the  Northwest  was  merged  in  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  reoccupied  its  old  site  at  the  Forks  of 
Red  River;  the  settlements  extending  gradually  southward  along 
the  banks  of  the  river.  The  grants  of  land  which  had  been  made  to 
the  colonists  by  the  Earl  of  Selkirk  held  good  under  the  general 
grant  made  to  him  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  in  1811,  and  have 
been  so  maintained. 

Meantime  the  Half-breeds  had  been  increasing  in  number;  and, 
as  the  buffalo  have  receded  before  the  settlements  in  British  America, 
they  made  their  hunting  expeditions  to  the  plains  around  the  Devil's 
Lake.  With  them,  the  two  important  events  of  the  year  are  the 
buffalo  hunts  which  they  come  to  these  plains  to  make.  They  bring 
with  them  carts  built  to  carry  each  the  meat  of  ten  buffalo,  which 
they  make  into  pemmican.  This  consists  of  the  meat  dried  by  fire  or 
sun,  coarsely  pounded  and  mixed  with  melted  fat,  and  packed  into 
skin  sacks.  It  is  of  two  qualities;  the  ordinary  pemmican  of  com- 
merce, being  the  meat  without  selection,  and  the  finer,  in  small 
sacks,  consisting  of  the  choicest  parts  kneaded  up  with  the  marrow. 


64 


Buffalo  tongues,  pemmican,  and  robes,  constitute  chiefly  their  trade 
and  support. 

When  making  their  hunts  the  party  is  usually  divided;  one-half 
to  hunt,  the  other  to  guard  the  camp.  Years  ago  they  were  much 
harassed  by  the  Indians  of  the  various  tribes  who  frequented  these 
buffalo  grounds  as  much  to  fight  as  to  hunt.  But  as  a  result  of  these 
conflicts  with  the  Half-breeds  the  Indians  were  always  obliged  to  go 
into  mourning;  and  gradually  they  had  learned  to  fight  shy  of  these 
people  and  of  late  years  had  ceased  to  molest  them.  They  are  good 
shots  and  good  riders,  and  have  a  prairie-wide  reputation  for  skill 
in  hunting  and  bravery  in  fighting. 

We  remained  on  the  Devil's  Lake  over  a  week,  during  which 
three  stations  were  made  along  the  southern  shore,  giving  for  the 
most  northern  latitude  47°  59^  29",  and  for  longitude  98°  28'.  Our  ba- 
rometer gave  for  the  top  of  the  "Enchanted  Hill"  1,766  feet  above 
the  sea,  for  the  plateau  1,486  feet,  and  for  the  lake  1,476  feet.  It  is  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  the  shores  being  broken  into  pleasing  ir- 
regularity by  promontories  and  many  islands.  As  in  some  other 
lakes  on  the  plateau,  the  water  is  brackish,  but  there  are  fish  in  it; 
and  it  is  doubtless  much  freshened  by  the  rains  and  melting  snows  of 
the  spring.  No  outlet  was  found,  but  at  the  southern  end  there  are  low 
grounds  by  which  at  the  season  of  high  waters  the  lake  may  discharge 
into  the  Shayen  River.  This  would  put  it  among  the  sources  of  the  Red 
River.  The  most  extended  view  of  its  waters  obtainable  from  any 
of  the  surrounding  hills  seemed  to  reach  about  forty  miles  in  a 
northwesterly  direction.  Accompanied  by  Dixon  or  Freniere,  I  was 
sent  off  on  several  detached  excursions  to  make  out  what  I  could  of 
the  shape  and  size  of  the  lake.  On  one  of  these  I  went  for  a  day's 
journey  along  the  western  shore,  but  was  unable  in  the  limited  time 
to  carry  my  work  to  the  northern  end.  Toward  nightfall  we  found 
near  the  shore  good  water  and  made  there  our  camp  in  open 
ground.  Nothing  disturbed  our  rest  for  several  hours,  when  we 
were  roused  by  a  confused  heavy  trampling  and  the  usual  grunting 
sounds  which  announced  buffalo.  We  had  barely  time  to  get  our 
animals  close  in  and  to  throw  on  dry  wood  and  stir  up  the  fire  be- 
fore the  herd  was  upon  us.  They  were  coming  to  the  lake  for  water, 
and  the  near  ones  being  crowded  forward  by  those  in  the  rear  and 
disregarding  us,  they  were  nigh  going  directly  over  us.  By  shouting 
and  firing  our  pieces,  we  succeeded  in  getting  them  to  make  a  little 


65 


space,  in  which  they  kept  us  as  they  crowded  down  into  the  lake. 
The  brackish,  salty  water,  is  what  these  animals  like,  and  to  turn  the 
course  of  such  a  herd  from  water  at  night  would  be  impossible. 

Unwieldy  as  he  looks,  the  buffalo  bull  moves  with  a  suddenness 
and  alertness  that  make  him  at  close  quarters  a  dangerous  antago- 
nist. Freniere  and  I  being  together  one  day,  we  discovered  a  bull 
standing  in  the  water  of  a  little  lake  near  the  shore,  and  we  rode  up 
to  see  what  he  was  doing  there  alone.  "He  may  be  sick,"  said 
Freniere.  As  we  approached  we  noticed  that  he  was  watching  us 
inquiringly,  his  head  high  up,  with  intention,  as  a  bull  in  an  arena. 
As  we  got  abreast  of  him  within  a  few  yards,  he  made  two  or 
three  quick  steps  toward  us  and  paused.  "Ohol  bonjour  camarade," 
Freniere  called  out,  and  moved  his  horse  a  little  away.  My  attention 
for  an  instant  was  diverted  to  my  riata,  which  was  trailing,  when  the 
bull  made  a  dash  at  us.  I  made  an  effort  to  get  out  of  his  range,  but 
my  horse  appeared  to  think  that  it  was  in  the  order  of  proceeding 
for  me  first  to  fire.  A  rough  graze  to  his  hind  quarters  which  stag- 
gered him  made  him  see  that  the  bull  had  decided  to  take  this  par- 
ticular affair  into  his  own  hands,  or  horns,  and  under  the  forcible 
impression  he  covered  a  rod  or  two  of  ground  with  surprising  celer- 
ity; the  bull  meanwhile  continuing  his  course  across  the  prairie 
without  even  turning  his  head  to  look  at  us.  Concluding  that  it  was 
not  desirable  to  follow  up  our  brief  acquaintance,  we  too  continued 
our  way.  A  good  hunter  does  not  kill  merely  for  the  sake  of  killing. 

The  outward  line  of  the  expedition  being  closed,  our  route  was 
now  turned  eastward  across  the  plateau  toward  the  valley  of  the  Red 
River  of  the  North.  The  first  night  was  passed  at  a  small  fresh-water 
lake  near  the  Lake  of  the  Serpents,  which  is  salt;  and  on  August  7th 
we  encamped  again  on  the  Shayen-oju.  Continuing  east,  we  crossed 
next  day  the  height  of  land  at  an  elevation  of  1,500  feet  above  sea 
level,  and  a  few  miles  farther  came  in  view  of  the  wide-spread  valley 
of  the  Red  River,  its  greea  wooded  line  extending  far  away  to  the 
north  on  its  way  to  British  America.  From  this  point,  travelling 
southerly,  a  week  was  spent  in  sketching  and  determining  positions 
among  the  head-waters  of  its  tributaries;  and  on  August  14th  we 
descended  again  to  the  valley  of  the  Shayen  and  recrossed  that  river 
at  an  elevation  of  1,228  feet  above  the  sea,  its  course  not  many 
miles  below  curving  northeast  to  the  Red  River.  Two  days  later  we 
reached  the  Lake  of  the  Four  Hills,  about  a  hundred  feet  above  the 
river.  This  lake  is  near  the  foot  of  the  ascent  to  the  Reipahan,  or 

66 


Head  of  the  Coteau  des  Prairies.  We  ascended  the  slope  to  the  high- 
est point  at  the  head  of  the  Coteau,  where  the  elevation  was  2,000 
feet  above  the  sea  and  the  width  of  the  Coteau  about  twenty  miles. 
In  its  extension  to  the  south  it  reaches,  in  about  a  hundred  and  fifty 
miles,  a  breadth  of  forty  miles;  sloping  abruptly  on  the  west  to  the 
great  plains  of  the  Riviere  a  Jacques,  and  on  the  east  to  the  prairies 
of  the  Mini-sotah  River.  Here  we  spent  several  days  in  the  basin  of 
the  beautiful  lakes  which  make  the  head-waters  of  the  Mini-sotah  of 
the  Mississippi  River,  and  the  Tchankasndata  or  Sioux  River  of  the 
Missouri.  The  two  groups  of  lakes  are  near  together,  occupying  ap- 
parently the  same  basin,  with  a  slight  rise  between;  the  Mini-sotah 
group  being  the  northern.  They  lie  in  a  depression  or  basin,  from 
150  to  300  feet  below  the  rim  of  the  Coteau,  full  of  clear  living  water, 
often  partially  wooded;  and,  having  sometimes  a  sandy  beach  or 
shore  strewed  with  boulders,  they  are  singularly  charming  natural 
features.  These  were  pleasant  camping-grounds — wood  was  abun- 
dant, the  water  was  good,  and  there  were  fish  in  the  lakes. 

From  the  lake  region  we  descended  800  or  900  feet  to  the  lower 
prairies,  and  took  up  our  march  for  the  residence  of  our  friends  the 
Renvilles. 

Some  well  employed  time  was  devoted  here  to  make  examinations 
of  the  Big  Stone  and  other  lakes,  and  to  making  observations  and 
collecting  materials  to  render  Mr.  Nicollet's  projected  map  of  this 
region  as  nearly  complete  as  practicable.  In  all  these  excursions  we 
had  the  effective  aid  of  the  Renvilles,  whose  familiar  knowledge  of 
the  country  enabled  us  to  economize  both  labor  and  time. 

The  autumn  was  far  advanced  when  we  took  our  leave  of  this 
post.  That  year  the  prairie  flowers  had  been  exceptional  in  lux- 
uriance and  beauty.  The  rich  lowlands  near  the  house  were  radiant 
with  asters  and  golden-rod,  and  memory  chanced  to  associate  these 
flowers,  as  the  last  thing  seen,  with  the  place.  Since  then  I  have  not 
been  in  that  country  or  seen  the  Renvilles;  but  still  I  never  see  the 
golden-rod  and  purple  asters  in  handsome  bloom,  without  thinking 
of  that  hospitable  refuge  on  the  far  northern  prairies. 

Some  additional  examinations  on  the  water-shed  of  the  Mini-sotah 
and  along  the  Mississippi  closed  the  labors  of  these  expeditions;  and 
at  nightfall  early  in  November  I  landed  at  Prairie  du  Chien  in  a 
bark  canoe,  with  a  detachment  of  our  party.^  A  steamboat  at  the 
landing  was  firing  up  and  just  about  starting  for  St.  Louis,  but  we 
thought  it  would  be  pleasant  to  rest  a  day  or  two  and  enjoy  comfort- 

67 


able  quarters  while  waiting  for  the  next  boat.  But  the  next  boat 
was  in  the  spring,  for  next  morning  it  was  snowing  hard,  and  the 
river  was  frozen  from  bank  to  bank.  I  had  time  enough  while  there 
to  learn  two  things:  one,  how  to  skate;  the  other,  the  value  of  a  day. 
After  some  weeks  of  wagon  journey  through  Illinois,  in  a  severe 
winter,  we  reached  St.  Louis;  when,  after  the  party  had  been  cared 
for,  I  went  on  to  Washington  to  assist  Mr.  Nicollet  in  working  up 
the  material  collected  in  the  expeditions. 

MEMOIRS,  38-54. 

1.  Etienne  Provost  (ca.  1782-1850),  one  of  the  best  known  of  the  mountain 
men  of  his  time.  His  name  is  spelled  many  ways  (as  in  Provo,  Utah),  and  as 
he  did  not  write,  we  do  not  know  his  preference.  He  was  with  the  Chouteau- 
DeMun  trading  venture  to  the  Rockies  in  1815-17,  exploiting  the  fur  re- 
sources of  the  Platte  and  upper  Arkansas  rivers.  A  few  years  later  he  had 
moved  to  the  Great  Basin,  and  he  has  been  credited  with  the  discovery  of 
Great  Salt  Lake — though  men  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  may  have 
preceded  him.  He  had  contacts  with  William  H.  Ashley  but  was  never  associ- 
ated with  him  as  a  partner,  and  was  employed  by  the  American  Fur  Company 
for  a  number  of  years.  He  ascended  the  Missouri  with  John  James  Audubon 
in  1843.  For  biographies,  see  anderson,  343-51,  and  l.  hafen  [3],  6:371-85. 
Louis  Zindel  was  a  new  immigrant  when  he  signed  on  with  Nicollet.  Upon 
returning  to  St.  Louis  he  opened  a  grocery  store  at  128  Market  Street,  but 
joined  JCF  again  in  1843  for  his  expedition  to  California  and  Oregon.  He 
made  tents  for  the  expedition  of  1845  but  did  not  join  it,  and  later  moved  to 
Keokuk,  Iowa,  to  continue  in  the  grocery  trade.  From  an  examination  of  the 
vouchers,  it  seems  probable  that  the  other  three  men  who  signed  on  at  St. 
Louis  were  Joseph  Fournaise,  Francois  Latulippe,  and  Joseph  Chartran. 

2.  The  Antelope  was  making  her  second  voyage  up  the  Missouri,  having 
gone  as  far  as  Fort  Union  the  previous  year.  But  she  drew  too  much  water 
for  the  shallow  reaches  of  the  upper  river,  and  on  this  trip  she  would  fall  400 
miles  short  of  her  destination— Fort  Union  again  (sunder,  21).  Besides  the 
Nicollet  party,  she  carried  fur  company  officials  John  F.  A.  Sanford,  William 
Laidlaw,  and  James  Kipp.  The  famed  missionary,  Father  Pierre-Jean  de 
Smet,  would  board  at  Council  Bluffs  to  ride  as  far  as  the  Vermillion  River 
(NICOLLET,  41-42).  A  second  vessel,  the  Pirate,  which  started  up  river  ahead 
of  the  Antelope  carrying  supplies  for  the  Nicollet  party,  struck  a  snag  and 
sank  a  few  miles  below  Council  Bluffs.  A  chart  of  the  river  prepared  by 
Nicollet  and  JCF,  now  in  the  Nicollet  Papers,  DLC,  indicates  the  location  of 
the  wreck. 

3.  At  the  present  site  of  Pierre,  S.D.  While  there  is  no  journal  of  the  voyage 
to  this  point,  the  large-scale  charts  of  the  river  give  a  good  account  of  the  trip, 
as  they  show  dates  and  places  of  encampment. 

4.  The  men  mentioned  by  JCF  include  William  F.  P.  May  (ca.  1797-1855), 
an  independent  fur  trader  for  more  than  thirty  years  on  the  upper  Missouri, 
the  Platte,  and  apparently  in  the  Santa  Fe  trade  ( Christopher  &  hafen). 
William  Dickson,  a  son  of  fur  trader  Robert  Dickson,  served  as  an  Indian 
interpreter  among  the  Sioux  at  times,  and  in  1835  was  in  charge  of  an  Ameri- 
can Fur  Company  post  near  the  James  River.  JCF  notes  its  location  on  the 

68 


charts  of  the  river  in  the  DNA.  Louison  Freniere  had  been  hired  10  July 
1838  by  P.  D.  Papin  as  a  clerk  and  interpreter.  He  was  a  Sioux  half-breed, 
later  to  serve  as  interpreter  for  the  upper  Missouri  agency.  It  is  doubtful 
that  Captain  Belligny  was  on  this  expedition  (see  Doc.  No.  5,  note  2). 

5.  Near  Blunt,  in  Hughes  County,  S.D.  The  expedition  will  now  strike  off 
to  the  northeast,  passing  south  of  the  Scatterwood  Lakes  in  Faulk  County, 
and  reaching  the  James  River  10  July.  By  14  July  they  will  reach  Sand  Lake 
in  Brown  County,  cross  into  present  North  Dakota  on  16  July,  and  two  days 
later  leave  the  James  and  strike  out  northeast  toward  the  Sheyenne  River. 
Then  they  will  proceed  northward,  first  along  the  Sheyenne  and  then  over- 
land (passing  a  lake  which  they  will  name  Lake  Jessie  when  they  eventually 
make  their  map)  and  arriving  in  the  Devils  Lake  area  of  North  Dakota  on 
27  July.  From  here  the  party  will  head  south  again,  following  along  the 
eastern  side  of  the  Coteau,  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Minnesota.  The  Nicollet 
map  does  not  show  dates  or  routes  from  this  point,  but  JCF  says  the  party 
visited  again  with  the  Renvilles  at  Lac  qui  Parle,  investigating  lakes  in  the 
area,  and  that  the  autumn  was  well  advanced  when  they  started  down  the  Min- 
nesota for  Fort  Snelling.  For  detailed  comment  on  the  route  in  the  Dakotas, 

see  STEVENS. 

6.  Charles  W.  Irish  (1834-1904),  pioneer  setder  in  Iowa  City,  not  only 
surveyed  and  supervised  the  construction  of  many  railroad  lines,  but  also 
served  under  President  Grover  Cleveland  as  chief  of  the  Bureau  of  Irrigation. 
He  later  became  deputy  mining  surveyor  of  Nevada  (see  obituary  notice, 
Annals  of  Iowa,  ser.  3,  6  [1903-5]  :639). 

7.  Thomas  Douglas,  fifth  Earl  of  Selkirk  (1771-1820). 

8.  Nicollet  had  reached  Prairie  du  Chien  before  14  Oct.  and  was  expecting  to 
descend  the  Mississippi  with  JCF,  who  would  arrive  in  two  or  three  days  (Nicol- 
let to  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Co.,  14  Oct.  1839,  MoSHi).  The  coming  of  winter, 
however,  seems  to  have  forced  him  to  proceed  to  St.  Louis  without  Fremont  as  he 
feared  ice  would  close  the  river  as  it  had  in  Nov.  1838  (see  letters  of  Nicollet 
to  Sibley,  Washington,  26  April  1840,  and  Hercules  L.  Dousman  to  Sibley,  20 
Nov.  1838,  MnHi— Sibley  Papers). 


23.  Financial  Records,  1839 

[31  Dec.  1839] 

Quarter  Ending  31  March  1839 

Voucher  No.  1,  Baltimore,  9  Feb.  1839 
U.S.  to  Brantz  Mayer 

1  Troughton's  reflecting  circle  and  stand  150.00 

Brantz  Mayer   (1809-79),   a   Baltimore  lawyer,  historian,  and   one   of  the 
founders  of  the  Maryland  Historical  Society. 

69 


Voucher  No.  2,  New 

York. 

27  Feb.  1839 

U.S.  to  A. 

Bininger 

&Co. 

20  lbs  Dresden  chocolate 

20.00 

1  boxes  sardines 

7.50 

1  Stilton  cheese 

6.25 

2  boxes  Andoulettes 

4.00 

3  lbs  Bermuda  arrowroot 

3.31 

8  bottles  superior  old  port 
4  bottles  brandy 
2  bottles  raspberry  brandy 
2  bottles  fleur  d'orange 

8.00 
4.00 
1.50 
1.25 

55.81 

In  1846-47,  A.  Bininger  &  Co.  was  a  firm  of  grocers  at  141  Broadway,  New 
York. 


Voucher  No.  3,  New  Yor\,  27  Feb.  1839 
U.S.  to  E.  &  G.  W.  Blunt 

1  chronometer  balance  watch  by  Amdd  [.'^]  &  Dent,  No. 
4632  220.00 

Edmund  and  George  W.  Blunt  specialized  in  books  and  charts,  and  handled 
all  nautical  instruments  of  American  manufacture.  In  1846-47,  the  firm  was 
located  at  179  Water  Street,  New  York, 


Voucher  No.  4  {U.S.  to  E.  &■  G.  W.  Blunt)  [not  present^ 

Voucher  No.  5,  New  Yor\,  27  Feb.  1839 
U.S.  to  E.  &  G.  W.  Blunt 

1  camera  lucida  18.00 


Voucher  No.  6,  New  YorJ^,  27  Feb.  1839 
U.S.  to  E.  &  G.  W.  Blunt 

1  English  nautical  almanac  for  1839  2.50 

1  American  nautical  almanac  for  1839  1.50 

1  English  nautical  almanac  for  1840  2.50 

"650 


70 


Voucher  No.  7,  New  York,  27  Feb.  1839 
U.S.  to  E.  dr  G.  W.  Blunt 

1  variation  chart  3.00 


Voucher  No.  8,  Baltimore,  4  March  1839 
U.S.  to  James  Green 

8  pocket  thermometers  16.00 

2  of  the  same  5.00 

1  compass  in  gimbals  5.00 

5  lbs.  quicksilver  8.75 

3475 


Voucher  No.  9,  {Baltimore^,  4  March  1839 
U.S.  to  Edward  ]en}{ins  and  Sons 

20  yards  gum  elastic  cloth  25.00 

In  1839,  the  Baltimore  firm  of  Edward  Jenkins  and  Sons,  "importers  of 
saddlery,"  was  at  147  and  148  Baltimore  Street.  Some  sixty  years  later  the  firm 
was  still  in  business,  located  at  21  Hanover. 


Voucher  No.  10,  Baltimore,  4  March  1839 
U.S.  to  Fielding  Lucas,  Jr. 

2  airtight  ink  stands  2.00 

1  doz.  Cohen's  pencils  1.25 

I  ea.  3H  and  4H  Jackson's  pens  2.62^ 
9  pieces  India  rubber  .37^ 

1  bunch  quills  1.00 

4  2-quire  cap  quartos  1.50 

1  3-quire  cap  No.  1  paper  1.50 
1  quire  super  quarto  port  [folio]  .37^ 

1  each  2-  and  3-quire  demi  quarto  3.00 

2  small  blank  books  .75 
logarithm  tables,  Callet  5.00 

19.37i 

Fielding  Lucas,  Jr.  (1781-1854),  a  publisher  of  fine  books  and  maps,  sup- 
plier of  "every  article  used  in  books,  newspaper,  and  job  offices,"  had  earlier 
been  a  partner  in  the  Baltimore  firm  of  Conrad,  Lucas,  and  Co.,  book  pub- 
lishers. See  FOSTER. 

71 


Voucher  No.  11,  Baltimore,  5  March  1839 
U.S.  to  Stockton,  Falls  &  Co. 

Freight  of  instruments  and  stores  from  Baltimore  to  Wheeling    13.00 

In  1842,  the  general  stage  offices  of  Stockton  and  Falls  and  Co.  were  at  the 
Baltimore  &  Ohio  depot  on  Pratt  Street. 

Voucher  No.  12,  St.  Louis,  20  March  1839 
U.S.  to  Collier  &  Pettus 

153  lbs.  dried  beef  19.89 

4  half  bbls.  pilot  bread  10.00 

1  box  .50 

30.39 

Collier  &  Pettus  were  wholesale  grocers  and  forwarding  and  commission 
merchants,  14  Front  Street,  St.  Louis, 

Voucher  No.  13,  St.  Louis,  22  March  1839 
U.S.  to  S.  W.  Meech 

\  ream  blue  wove  cap  1.50 

\  ream  white  letter  1.38 

2  quires  envelope  paper  .75 
1  4-quire  half-bound  record  1.50 
1  2-quire  1 /bound  blanks  2.00 
1  card  steel  pens  1.00 
1  box  wafers  .13 

1  screw  top  ink  stand  .75 
4  bottles  Japan  ink  1.00 
6  reams  mapping  paper  12.00 

2  rulers  .50 
4  papers  of  ink  powder  -50 

1  4-quire  demy  record  4.00 
4  binder's  boards  covered  with  leather  3.00 
covering  two  boards  with  leather  .75 

2  binder's  boards  .25 
binding  2  vols,  geology  &  botany  1.87 
box  for  packing  mapping  paper  1.00 

33.88 

S.  W.  Meech  was  proprietor  of  the  Franklin  Bookstore,  St.  Louis. 

72 


Voucher  No.  14,  St.  Louis,  22  March  1839 
U.S.  to  Mueller  &  Ktngpeter 

21  March  1839 

1  trunk  4.50 

1  case  for  telescope  2.25 

6  straps  for  herbarium  1.50 

825 

This  St.  Louis  firm  was  listed  in  1840-41  as  Miller  &  Kinzpeter,  saddlers 
and  harnessmakers,  at  53  S.  Second  Street. 


Voucher  No.  15,  St.  Louis,  21  March  1839 
U.S.  to  A.  W.  Kruger 

1  German  cavalry  bridle,  martingale  and  crupper  15.00 

A.  W.  Kruger  not  identified. 

Voucher  No.  16,  St.  Louis,  22  March  1839 
U.S.  to  H.  L.  Zierlein 

1  rifle  20.00 

Henry  L.  Zierlein  (1799-1864),  a  Prussian,  became  one  of  the  first  German 
hardware  merchants  in  St.  Louis. 

Voucher  No.  17,  St.  Louis,  23  March  1839 
U.S.  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 

On  account  of  services  rendered  as  chief  of  the  North  West 
Exploring  Expedition  1000.00 

Voucher  No.  18,  St.  Louis,  19  March  1839 
U.S.  to  R.  Simpson 

24  lbs.  chocolate  4.80 

This  merchant  may  be  Dr.  Robert  Simpson  (1785-1873),  who  operated 
a  store  in  this  period  but  who  earlier  had  served  in  the  Army  as  a  surgeon.  He 
had  come  to  the  Mississippi  Valley  in  1809  from  Maryland,  ordered  to  serve 
the  troops  at  the  newly  constructed  Fort  Madison.  After  resigning  in  1812 
he  started  a  medical  practice  in  St.  Louis,  and  also  operated  a  drug  store.  See 
scHARF,  2:1520;  billon,  244,  341;  jackson  [3],  25-26. 

73 


Voucher  No.  19,  St.  Louis,  23  March  1839 
U.S.  to  ].  E.  Flandin 

Transportation  of  stores  and  instruments  from  New  York  to 
Baltimore  3.75 


Voucher  No.  20,  St.  Louis,  25  March  1839 
U.S.  to  Charles  Reshiner 

23  Jan.  1839 

1  sextant  cleaned  and  varnished  20.00 

1  magnifying  glass  and  movement  5.00 

1  mahogany  box  8.00 

2  barometers  filled,  and  new^  tubes  5.00 

15  Feb. 

1  brass  frame  to  magnifying  glass  .75 

1  magnifying  glass  with  wood  frame  1.00 

16  March 

1  artificial  horizon  repaired  1.00 
cleaning  vertical  circle  3.00 
22  March 

cleaning  telescope  .75 

magnifying  glass  and  tube  to  small  sextant  2.50 

2  leather  cases  for  barometers  4.00 
2  leather  cases  altered  1.00 
1  leather  case  for  sextant  4.00 

56.00 

We  have  not  identified  Charles  Reshiner  or  Ryhiner,  or  F.  Ryhiner   (see 
voucher  no.  15  below^). 


Voucher  No.  21,  St.  Louis,  25  March  1839 
U.S.  to  Chas.  A.  Geyer 

For  services  100.00 

Endorsed  by  JCF:  "Mr.  Geyer  was  appointed  by  the  War  Department  as 
assistant  to  J.  N.  Nicollet  Esqr.,  appointment  bearing  date  1st  March  1839." 
In  another  hand:  "at  $2.00  per  day  from  the  10th  March  to  the  29th  April 
inclusive."  Another  endorsement  by  JCF:  "The  amount  was  paid  in  advance 
to  enable  Mr.  Geyer  to  procure  his  outfit.  .  .  ." 

74 


Voucher  No.  22,  St.  Louis,  25  March  1839 
U.S.  to  H.  H  el  gen  berg 

1  sledge  hammer  2.50 

1  small  hammer  1-00 

1  small  grubbing  hoe  2.00 

2  stone  chisels  2.00 
1  pruning  [  ?]  rod  1-^0 

9.00 

Certified:  "I  certify  that  the  above  amount  is  Correct.  C.  Fremont."  Both 
the  certification  and  signature  are  in  the  hand  of  Jessie  Benton  Fremont,  and 
probably  were  not  added  until  at  least  late  1841.  Henry  Helgenberg  first  ap- 
pears in  a  St.  Louis  directory  in  1842,  listed  as  a  grocer  on  Carondelet  Avenue 
between  Bridge  and  Wood. 

Voucher  No.  23,  St.  Louis,  22  March  1839 
U.S.  to  Charles  A.  Geyer 

For  services  16.00,  drayage  1.00  17.00 

With  endorsements  similar  to  those  for  no.  21,  indicating  service  at  2.00 
per  day  from  1  to  8  March  inclusive. 

Voucher  No.  24,  St.  Louis,  28  March  1839 
U.S.  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 

On  account  of  services  rendered  as  chief  of  the  North  West 
Exploring  Expedition.  100.00 

Voucher  No.  25,  St.  Louis,  29  March  1839 
U.S.  to  f.  S.  Page 

1  cord  and  tassels  for  flag  .87| 

No  firm  by  this  name  is  listed  in  the  St.  Louis  directory  for  1838-39,  and  it 
may  be  an  error  for  J.  S.  Pease  &  Company — importers  and  dealers  in  hard- 
ware, cutlery,  etc.  at  20  N.  First  Street. 

Voucher  No.  26,  St.  Louis,  29  March  1839 
U.S.  to  Henry  Chouteau 

1  box  hams  and  bacon  43.50 

1  keg  butter  11.20 

1  box  port  wine,  12  bottles  8.00 

75 


1  box  sperm  candles  14.88 

drayage  -25 


77.83 


Voucher  No.  27,  St.  Louis,  29  March  1839 
U.S.  to  Chouteau  &  Barlow 

25  March  1839 

3  bed  cords  1.50 

2  tea  kettles  3.50 

2  [boxes]  percussion  caps  1.25 

2  frying  pans  2.00 

2  cork  screws  .75 

2  doz.  knives  and  forks  4.00 

3  loaves  sugar  4.10 
1  tin  cup  -75 

4  canisters  2.00 

1  [  ]  plates  1.00 

2  coffee  pots  3.00 

2  lanterns  1-00 

3  lbs.  saleratus  .75 
2  doz.  matches  1.00 

1  doz.  spoons  1.12 

2  wash  basins  .75 
2  sauce  pans  2.00 

1  saw  1.25 

2  spades  2.50 

34.22 

Chouteau  and  Barlow,  grocers  and  dry  goods  and  commission  merchants, 
were  at  Front  and  Market  Streets,  St.  Louis,  in  1838-39. 


Voucher  No.  28,  St.  Louis,  29  March  1839 
U.S.  to  E.  &  J.  C.  Bredell 

1  crimson  scarf  1.75 

Edward  and  John  C.  Bredell,  brothers,  were  dry  goods  merchants  at  Main 
and  Market  Streets,  St.  Louis. 

76 


Voucher  No.  29,  St.  Louis,  29  March  1839 
U.S.  to  Gaty,  Coonce  &-  Beltshoover 

[An  illegible  voucher  involving  materials  for  making  rockets, 
including  brass  items,  three  rammers,  and  other  items,  total- 
ing 28.75]. 

Samuel  Gaty  (b.  1811)  was  chief  partner  in  a  foundry  firm  known  vari- 
ously as  Gaty  &  Coonce;  Gaty,  Coonce  &  Morton;  and  Gaty,  Coonce  &  Belt- 
shoover. Gaty  made  the  first  casting  in  St.  Louis  and  the  first  steam  engine 
west  of  the  Mississippi  (scharf,  1:666-68). 

Voucher  No.  30,  St.  Louis,  30  March  1839 
U.S.  to  Mrs.  E.  Lyons 

Making  2  mosquito  bars  3.00 

making  liner  for  same  1.50 

making  scarf  for  flag  1.00 

^50 

In  1840,  an  E.  Lyons  family  ran  a  fancy  goods  store  at  24  Market  Street, 
St.  Louis. 

Voucher  No.  31,  St.  Louis,  29  March  1839 
U.S.  to  Taylor  &  Marshall 

J  yard  Tibet  merino  1.25 

In  1841,  Taylor  and  Marshall  were  dealers  in  staple  and  fancy  dry  goods, 
Main  and  Pine  Streets,  St.  Louis. 

Voucher  No.  32,  St.  Louis,  30  March  1839 
U.S.  to  George  Engelmann,  M.D. 

Set  of  chemical  tests  in  a  box  with  blowpipe  8.50 

6  [.  .  .]  18.00 

medicines,  emetics,  pills  3.50 

bottle  of  camphor  1.50 

31.50 

Voucher  No.  33,  St.  Louis,  30  March  1839 
U.S.  to  Jaccard  &•  Co. 

Cleaning  and  repairing  one  gold  patent  duplex  watch  8.00 

3  common  keys  .37^ 

77 


1  guard  chain  3>1\ 

2  watch  glasses  2.00 
cleaning  and  repairing  silver  watch                                               4.00 

1475" 

Until  1848,  Louis  Jaccard  was  a  principal  owner  of  the  jewelry  house  of 
Jaccard  &  Co.,  St.  Louis  (scharf,  2:1320). 


Second,  Third,  and  Fourth  Quarters,  1839 


Voucher  No.  1,  St.  Louis,  1  April  1839 
U.S.  to  Carstens  &  Schuetze 

[Illegible  bill,  including  15  lbs.  saltpeter  for  3.00,  and  2  lbs. 
sulfur.]  4.81 

Carstens  and  Schuetze,  168  Main  Street,  St.  Louis,  were  wholesale  druggists 
and  apothecaries. 


Voucher  No.  2,  St.  Louis,  1  April  1839 
U.S.  to  S.  Wing  &  Co. 

30  tin  grenade  cases  11.25 

S.  Wing  &  Co.,  21  N.  First  Street,  is  listed  as  tin  manufacturer  and  dealer 
in  the  St.  Louis  directory  for  1842. 


Voucher  No.  3,  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  2  April  1839 
U.S.  to  Mead  &  Adriance 

2  pair  gilt  flag  tassels  7.00 

In  1839,  Mead  and  Adriance  were  dealers  in  clocks,  watches,  jewelry,  and 
military  and  fancy  goods,  at  the  corner  of  First  and  Pine  Streets,  St.  Louis. 


Voucher  No.  4,  St.  Louis,  3  April  1839 
U.S.  to  George  Engelmann,  M.D. 

2  bottles  soda  of  tartaric  acid  2.00 

sharpening  lancets  -25 

225 

78 


Voucher  No.  5,  St.  Louis,  3  April  1839 
U.S.  to  Grimsley  &  Young 

2  Spanish  saddles  15.00 

1  bridle  2.50 

1  black  leather  belt  ^ 

18.00 

Grimsley  and  Young  made  saddles,  harness,  and  trunks  for  the  wholesale 
and  retail  trade,  37  Main  Street,  St.  Louis. 

Voucher  No.  6,  St.  Louis,  4  April  1839 
U.S.  to  J.  E.  Flan  din 

To  cash  advanced  for  paper,  etc.  2.00 

cleaning  rifle  2.50 

tent  poles  H-OO 

drayage  1-50 

powder  __l 

16.75 

Voucher  No.  7,  St.  Louis,  5  April  1839 
U.S.  to  J.  E.  Flandin 

gun  and  case  55.00 

compensation  for  service  from  4  March  to  5  April  @  2.00  66.00 

121.00 

Voucher  No.  8,  Fort  Pierre,  25  June  1839 
U.S.  to  J.  Baptiste  Dorion 

1  bay  horse  140.00 

Jean  Baptiste  Dorion,  the  interpreter  at  Fort  Pierre  when  the  Nicollet  party 
stopped  there,  was  the  son  of  Pierre  Dorion  (ca.  1750-1810),  who  served  with 
Lewis  and  Clark,  and  the  brother  of  Pierre  Dorion,  Jr.,  who  guided  the 
Astorians  to  Oregon  and  was  killed  there  by  Indians  in  1813  (robinson, 
13:46-48). 

Voucher  No.  9,  Lac  du  Brochet,  18  Aug.  1839 
U.S.  to  Louison  Frenier 

For  services  rendered  as  guide,  61  days  @  2.50  152.50 

Freniere's  mark  witnessed  by  William  Dickson. 

79 


Voucher  No.  10,  Lac  du  Brocket,  18  Aug.  1839 
U.S.  to  Pierre  Dorion 

For  services  as  hunter,  61  days  @  1.00  per  diem  61.00 

Dorion's  mark  witnessed  by  William  Dickson.  Dorion  was  the  son  of  Jean 
Baptiste,  who  is  identified  under  voucher  no.  8. 

Voucher  No.  11,  Coteau  du  Prairie,  22  Aug.  1839 
U.S.  to  Wm.  Dickson 

For  service  as  interpreter  and  guide,  96  days  @  4.00  384.00 

1  bridle  2.00 

386.00 

Voucher  No.  12,  Traverse  des  Sioux,  13  Sept.  1839 
U.S.  to  Joseph  Renville 

1  3-pt.  blanket  7.00 

1-3/4  [.  .  .]  6.50 

f  yds.  same  2.00 

107  lbs.  lead  13.37i 

50  lbs.  powder  37.50 

80  lbs.  beef  6.40 

100  lbs.  flour  6.50 

4  lbs.  white  sugar  1-00 

equipment  30.00 

1  canneau  [  ?]  15.00 

10  lbs.  tobacco  2.50 

3  lbs.  tobacco  -75 

50  lbs.  meal  3.25 

30  lbs.  lard  7.50 

15  lbs.  sugar  3.75 
For  7  days  of  service  as  guide  and  interpreter  from  5  Sept. 

through  11  Sept.  @  2.50  17.50 

160.52 


Voucher  No.  13,  St.  Peters,  1  Nov.  1839 
U.S.  to  American  Fur  Company 

Shoeing  1  horse  3.00,  1  cast  steel  axe  with  handle  3.37  6.37 

2  lbs.  sugar  400,  \  lb.  tea  5/,  28  lbs.  pork  4.20  5.22 

2i  lbs.  soap  5/,  cash  80.00,  4  lbs.  tobacco  1.00  81.63 

8o 


1  hemp  bed  cord  5/,  6  lbs.  shot  6/,  20  lbs.  sugar  4.00  5.38 
15  lbs.  pemmican  2.10,  50  lbs.  pork  7.50  9.60 
96  lbs.  flour  7.00,  ^  gallon  molasses  6.00  7.75 
4  lbs.  coffee  80^,  13-pt.  blanket  6.00,  1  surcingle  8/  7.80 
Amount  paid  for  hire  of  1  man  with  horse  and  cart  from  St. 
Peters  to  Prairie  du  Chien  with  allowance  of  time  for  re- 
turn, say  50  days  @  2.00  per  day  100.00 


223.75 


Rect.  by  H.  H.  Sibley  for  the  American  Fur  Company. 


Voucher  No.  14,  Prairie  du  Chien,  3  Nov.  1839 
U.S.  to  American  Fur  Company 

113  lbs.  pork  @  1210,  8  lbs.  coffee  @  25^  16.13 

40  loaves  bread  @  \2\(t,  25  lbs.  sugar  4.25  9.25 

1  quire  paper  50(Z',  1  gal.  pease  25^  .75 

1  box  matches,  250,  1  lb.  tea  1.25  1.50 

paid  Augt.  Rock  for  provisions  5.00 

1  paper  tacks  250,  1  lb.  cut  nails  .44 

amount  paid  M.  Richards  for  provisions  38.00 

7L07 

Rect.  by  H.  L.  Dousman  for  the  American  Fur  Company.  M.  Richards,  in 
the  last  line,  is  not  identified — but  a  man  named  Milo  Richards  was  selected 
for  the  grand  jury  at  the  3  Jan.  1842  meeting  of  the  Crawford  County  Board  of 
Commissioners  (wis.  his.  rec.  sur.,  95). 


Voucher  No.  15,  St.  Louis,  2  Dec.  1839 
U.S.  to  Estate  of  C.  Ryhiner 

Repair  1  telescope  3.00 

Rect.  by  F.  Ryhiner,  administrator. 


Voucher  No.  16,  St.  Louis,  6  Dec.  1839 
U.S.  to  L.  Zindel 

For  services  rendered,  17  days  @  1.00,  from  18  Nov.  to  5 
Dec.  inclusive  17.00 

8i 


Voucher  No.  17,  Pittsburgh,  17  Dec.  1839 
U.S.  to  May  &  H annas 

Freight  on  12  packs  from  St.  Louis  to  Pittsburgh 

2  packing  boxes 

receiving,  forwarding  &  drayage  on  17  packs 


10.00 
1.50 

2.00 

"1350 


In  1839,  May  and  Hannas  were  wholesale  grocers  and  commission  and  for- 
warding merchants  in  Pittsburgh. 


Voucher  No.  18,  Pittsburgh,  18  Dec.  1839 
U.S.  to  L.  Ackcrman 

Transportation  per  stage  coach  of  instruments  and  one  trunk 
containing  manuscripts  and  field  notes 

L.  Ackerman  not  identified. 


15.00 


Voucher  No.  19,  St.  Louis,  18  Dec.  1839 
U.S.  to  Charles  A.  Geyer 

For  services  rendered  as  assistant  to  J.  N.  Nicollet  from 
28  April  to  14  Dec.  1839  @  2.00  per  diem 


462.00 


Subvoucher,  St.  Louis,  4  Dec.  1839 
U.S.  to  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company 

For  advances  at  St.  Louis  to  Lt.  Fremont  on  a/c  of 

Exploring  Expedition 
19  March  1839 

To  cash  paid  Lt.  Fremont's  order 
To  cash  paid  Flandin 
To  cash  paid  the  same 
To  cash  paid  the  same 
To  cash  paid  Dorion 
To  cash  paid  Freniere 
To  cash  paid  for  advertising  lost  boxes 
To  cash  paid  Dousman 
To  cash  paid  Dickson 
To  cash  paid  Lt.  Fremont's  order 
To  cash  paid  same 
To  wages  paid  Jacques  Fournaise 


600.00 

50.00 

83.00 

15.00 

39.00 

102.00 

6.00 

600.00 

386.00 

200.00 

2000.00 

165.00 


82 


To  wages  paid  Frangois  Latulippe  185.00 

To  wages  paid  Joseph  Chartran  191.00 

To  wages  paid  Louis  Zindell  207.00 

To  wages  paid  Etienne  Provost  778.00 

To  cash  paid  Lt.  Fremont's  order  300.00 

5907.00 

Rect.  at  St.  Louis  4  Dec.  1839  by  Pierre  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  certified  by  JCF. 
Endorsed  in  the  auditor's  office:  "Private  with  the  exception  of  an  item  for 
advertising  boxes."  Persons  not  previously  identified  include  Joseph  Fournaise, 
who  may  be  Jacques  Fournais,  dit  Pino.  Fournais  went  to  the  mountains  in 
1827  for  W.  H.  Ashley  &  Co.  and  was  with  Robert  Campbell  in  the  Flathead 
country  in  1827-28.  He  apparently  was  a  man  of  extreme  age  at  his  death  at 
Kansas  City  in  1871,  perhaps  as  old  as  124  years,  and  reportedly  had  been 
refused  service  with  Andrew  Jackson  in  the  War  of  1812  because  of  his  age 
( ASHLEY,  290-91).  Warren  Ferris  described  some  of  his  unusual  experiences 
in  Indian  country  without  a  weapon  (ferris,  221-30).  Francois  Latulippe, 
who  is  carried  in  the  Chouteau  ledgers  both  as  Latulipe  Monbleau  and 
Francois  Latulipe,  would  join  JCF's  expedition  in  1842  as  a  voyageur  and  go 
as  far  as  Fort  John  on  the  Platte  River.  See  pp.  182-84.  Joseph  Chartran, 
whom  we  have  not  identified,  is  listed  elsewhere  as  Joseph  Chartrand. 

The  location  of  the  foregoing  documents  is  DNA-217,  Third  Auditor's 
Reports  and  Accounts,  Acct.  No.  10954. 


24.  Fremont  to  Joel  R.  Poinsett 

Baltimore,  Jany  3d  '40 


Dear  Sir 


Expecting  to  find  Mr.  Nicollet  detained  by  his  friends  at  this 
place  I  left  Washington  on  the  27th  ult.  to  tell  him  how  much 
time  was  pressing  &  how  pleased  you  would  be  to  see  him.  Up  to 
this  time,  however,  he  has  not  made  his  appearance  &  we  have  re- 
ceived no  letter  nor  any  other  intelligence  from  him.  Remember- 
ing that  I  left  him  in  bad  health,  not  yet  recovered  from  a  rather 
severe  attack,  &  knowing  that  he  would  not  fail  to  do  the  same  for 
me,  I  would  certainly  set  out  in  search,  but  that  my  funds  are  so 
completely  low  as  to  prevent  me.  He  may  be  sick  at  some  little 
roadside  inn  &  wd.  be  glad  to  see  a  friend. 

I  can  do  nothing  in  the  way  of  work  without  him  and  therefore 
I  think  I  am  excusable  in  remaining  here  until  his  arrival  &  shall 
do  so  if  I  do  not  receive  an  order  to  the  contrary.  I  was  hoping  that 

83 


Mrs.  Poinsett's  Buffalo  tongues  would  have  been  in  time  for  the 
New  Year  Dinner,  but  the  state  of  the  roads,  I  suppose,  prevented 
their  arrival.  I  hope  that  she  is  well.  Will  you  have  the  kindness  to 
present  to  her  my  respectful  regards  with  my  New  Year  wishes  for 
the  enjoyment  of  uninterrupted  health  &  happiness  ? 

I  am  receiving  a  great  deal  of  very  agreeable  attention  here.  Some 
of  their  friendship  for  Mr.  N,  is  reflected  on  me,  I  suppose.  I  hope 
soon  to  be  able  to  give  you  notice  of  his  arrival.  Very  Respectfully 
Dear  Sir,  Your  Obt.  Servt. 

Charles  Fremont 

ALS,  RC  (PHi — Poinsett  Papers).  Addressed  and  endorsed. 


25.  Fremont  to  J.  J.  Abert 

Washington  City  Novr.  10th  1840 


Sir, 


It  becomes  necessary  for  us  soon  to  give  up  the  rooms  which  we 
now  occupy  in  the  Coast  Survey  &  Weights  and  Measures  building, 
which  will  oblige  us  to  hire  rooms  for  our  own  work.  I  have  made 
the  requisite  enquiries  and  find  that  rooms  can  be  obtained  on  4^ 
street  for  $18  per  month  each. 

We  shall  want  three  rooms  and  the  necessary  fuel,  and  I  have 
now  to  submit  the  application  to  your  consideration.  Very  respect- 
fully &c. 

Chs.  Fremont 

Copy  (DNA-217,  Third  Auditor's  Reports  and  Accounts,  Acct.  No.  12245). 
Endorsed:  "Col.  Abert  respectfully  recommends  no  greater  allowance  than 
for  each  room  per  month,  $10  for  an  attendant  with  the  requisite  fuel. 
Approved,  J.  R.  P[oinsett  |." 


84 


26.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 


Bureau  of  Topogrl.  Engrs. 
Washington,  Novbr.  19th  1840 
Sir 

Your  letter  of  the  10th  instt.  has  been  duly  submitted  to  the  War 
Department,  and  in  reply  I  am  authorized  to  state  that  you  can  en- 
gage three  rooms  at  a  charge  not  exceeding  ten  dollars  for  each 
room  per  month.  An  attendant  upon  the  rooms  at  a  charge  not 
exceeding  ten  dollars  pr.  month,  and  you  can  also  procure  the 
necessary  fuel.  The  expenditures  on  these  accounts  will  have  to  be 
paid  out  of  the  appropriation  for  the  Survey  upon  which  you  are 
employed.  The  entire  balance  left  in  the  Treasury  is  $1742.20  and 
I  am  particularly  charged  to  direct  that  on  no  account  is  the  balance 
to  be  exceeded,  so  as  to  create  arrearages  in  case  no  additional  ap- 
propriations should  be  made.  Respectfully, 

J.  J.  Abert  CI.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  4:296-97). 


27.  Financial  Records,  1840 

[31  Dec.  1840] 

First,  Second,  and  Third  Quarters,  1840 

Voucher  No.  1,  St.  Louis,  [1  July  1840] 
U.S.  to  Charles  A.  Geyer 

For  services  rendered  to  the  U.S.  as  assistant  to  J.  N. 

Nicollet  from  14  Dec.  1839  to  1  July  1840  @  2.00  per  diem  396.00 

For  transportation  as  follows: 

Fort  Pierre  to  Oak  Wood  on  the  James  River,  118  mi.  11.80 

Oak  Wood  to  Devil's  Lake,  362  mi.  36.20 

Devil's  Lake  to  Lac  qui  Parle,  520  mi.  52.00 

Lac  qui  Parle  to  St.  Peters,  470  mi.  47.00 

St.  Peters  to  St.  Louis,  694  mi.  69.40 

612.40 
85 


Voucher  No.  2,  St.  Louis,  19  Nov.  1839 
U.S.  to  Joseph  Fournaise 

For  services  to  J.  N.  Nicollet  as  an  engage,  1  March  to  16 

Nov.  1839  @  1.00  per  diem  261.00 

Less  cash  received  on  account  163.13 

97.87 

Signed  with  Fournaise's  mark  and  witnessed  by  M[ichel]  S[ylvestre]  Cerre, 
a  member  of  a  family  well  known  in  the  fur  trade  of  the  West.  Cerre  had 
been  a  member  of  the  "French  Company"  or  P.  D.  Papin  Co.  which  Kenneth 
McKenzie  eliminated  from  the  trade  in  1830.  He  had  also  been  principal  as- 
sistant to  Captain  Bonneville  (chittenden,  1:309,  405;  abel,  xxvi,  202).  After 
1835,  Cerre's  time  was  spent  mainly  in  St.  Louis.  In  1848,  he  was  the  only 
Whig  representative  from  that  city  elected  to  the  state  legislature.  He  served 
as  sheriff  of  St.  Louis  County  from  Aug.  1858  until  his  death  in  1860  (  Ander- 
son, 281-83). 

Voucher  No.  3,  St.  Louis,  19  Nov.  1839 
U.S.  to  Francis  Latulipe 

For  services  to  J.  N.  Nicollet  as  an  engage,  1  March  to  16 

Nov.  1839  @  1.00  per  diem  261.00 

Less  cash  received  on  account  96.50 

164.50 

Signed  with  Latulippe's  mark  and  witnessed  by  M.  S.  Cerre. 

Voucher  No.  4,  St.  Louis,  19  Nov.  1839 
U.S.  to  Joseph  Chartrand 

For  services  to  J.  N.  Nicollet  as  an  engage,  1  March  to  16 

Nov.  1839  261.00 

Less  cash  received  on  account  152.00 

109.00 

Signed  with  Chartrand's  mark  and  witnessed  by  M.  S.  Cerre. 

Voucher  No.  5,  St.  Louis,  19  Nov.  1839 
U.S.  to  Louis  Zindel 

For  services  to  J.  N.  Nicollet  as  an  engage,  1  March  to  16 

Nov.  1839  261.00 

Less  cash  received  on  account  56.00 

205.00 

Signed  with  Zindel's  mark  and  witnessed  by  M.  S.  Cerre. 

86 


Voucher  No.  6,  St.  Louis,  20  Nov.  1839 
U.S.  to  Etienne  Provinceau  [Provost] 

For  services  to  J.  N.  Nicollet  as  a  guide,  1  March  to  16  Nov. 

1839  @  3.00  per  diem  783.00 

Less  cash  received  on  account  33.00 

750.00 

Voucher  No.  7,  St.  Louis,  20  Nov.  1839 
U.S.  to  ].  N.  Nicollet 

To  amount  expended  in  the  purchase  of  provisions  and 
other  necessaries  required  in  a  survey  of  the  Mississippi 
during  a  portion  of  the  months  of  October  and  Novem- 
ber 1839  183.00 

Endorsed  by  Nicollet:  "These  expenditures  were  for  a  separate  Survey  un- 
der me,  and  were  for  provisions  &  hire  of  hands,  provisions  bought  as  wanted 
from  the  inhabitants.  I  certify  that  the  expenses  were  actually  made  as  stated, 
that  vouchers  could  not  have  been  procured  but  in  a  few  cases  and  that  I  was 
not  aware  of  their  necessity,  and  that  the  amount  charged  was  paid  on  public 
account." 

Voucher  No.  8,  St.  Louis,  23  Nov.  1839 
U.S.  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 

On  account  of  geographical  surveys  west  of  the  Mississippi      2000.00 

Voucher  No.  9,  St.  Louis,  29  Nov.  1839 
U.S.  to  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company 

For  sundries  furnished  Lt.  Fremont  at  Fort  Pierre: 

226  lbs.  sugar  113.00 

112  lbs.  coflee  56.00 

2\  lbs.  tea  6.75 

368  lbs.  tobacco  184.00 

10  3-pt.  blue  blankets  100.00 

2  3-pt.  H.  B.  [Hudson  Bay]  blankets  20.00 

8  2i  pt.  H.  B.  blankets  64.00 

5  2-pt.  white  blankets  35.00 

58  pieces  dry  meat  29.00 

211  lbs.  lead  52.75 

28^  lbs.  powder  21.38 

21  lbs.  balls  5.25 

87 


3  buffalo  robes  9.00 

8  bu.  white  agate  beads  32.00 

i  lb.  fine  garnishing  250,  20  bu.  blue  beads  $40.00  40.25 

20  bu.  white  beads  40.00,  12  bu.  blue  agate  beads  48.00  88.00 

10  bu.  barley  corn  30.00,  4  strings  beads  2.00  32.00 

25  lbs.  biscuit  5.00,  8  lbs.  thread  20.00  25.50 

6  lbs.  fish  hooks  6.00,  12|  doz.  Crambo  combs  12.13  18.13 

2  gross  Indian  awls  8.00,  2  gross  gun  worms  5.00  13.00 

19  snaffle  bridles  23.75 

5  half-plate  bridles  17.50 

2  full-plate  bridles  6.67 
^  lb.  candle  wick  250,  30-|  lbs.  arrow  points  10.38  10.63 
1  piece  [.  .  .]  cloth  60.75 
1  yd.  blue  Stroud  2.50,  1  piece  cloth  10.00  12.50 
1  piece  scarlet  cloth  65.25 
l^  yds.  red  flannel  14.25,  1  yd.  fine  blue  cloth  7.00  21.25 

6  pair  scissors  3.00,  1  box  soap  14.10  17.10 

3  surcingles  3.00  1  fort  [  ?]  flag  50.00  53.00 

1  American  ensign  15.00, 1  capot  16.00  31.00 
3  leather  halters  6.00,  173  yds.  calico  86.50  92.50 

2  wooden  bowls  2.00,  1  padlock  1.00  3.00 
2  japanned  kettles  13.75,  2  tin  kettles  5.00  18.75 

1  iron  chain  3.00,  11  large  cords  5.00,  1  drawing  knife  1.75  9.75 

2  shirts  3.50,  5  lbs.  tallow  750,  2  pieces  stirrup  iron  3.00  7.25 

1  barrel  navy  bread,  24.00,  3  parchments,  3.00  27.00 
12%  2  doz.  knives  76.50 
6  chopping  axes  18.00,  1  Assiniboin  lance  3.00  21.00 
8  lbs.  sturgeon  line  24.00,  4  doz.  looking  glasses  6.00  30.00 
10|  lbs.  Vermillion  43.00 

3  gross  coat  buttons  12.00,  1  doz.  small  [?]  3.00  15.00 
3  gross  finger  rings  9.00,  2  elk  skins  5.00  14.00 
3  antelope  skins  5.00,  5  bu.  corn  &  bags  15.50  20.50 
150  lbs.  salt  18.75,  6  lbs.  gun  flints  12.00  30.75 
6  pieces  ribbon  18.00,  |  gross  Highland  gartering  5.00  23.00 
3  [?]  brass  nails  6.00 
5  lbs.  verdigris  15.00,  5  doz.  fire  steels  10.00  25.00 
75  lbs.  nails  18.75,  10  papers  hawk  bells  15.00  33.75 
12  papers  needles  3.00,  1  leather  bag  1.00  4.00 

2  grizzly  bear  skins  6.00,  3  black  silk  handkerchiefs  6.00  12.00 


88 


9  undressed  cowskins 

18.00 

1  large  skin 

5.00 

1  ermine  [  ?] 

1.96 

paid  Dorion 

32.00 

paid  L.  Frenier 

30.00 

paid  H.  Tillot  [not  identified 

3.00 

3  kegs  for  sugar  1.25,  1  bag  500,  1  packing  box  4.00 

5.75 

1  keg  for  coflfee  2.00,  1  10-gallon  keg  2.00 

4.00 

1876.87 


Voucher  No.  10,  St.  Louis,  29  Nov.  1839 
U.S.  to  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company 

15  March 

36  yds.  mosquito  netting  9.00 
28  March 

65  yds.  bed  ticking  18.25 

6  barrels  flour  48.00 

110  lbs.  sugar  11.00 

100  lbs.  rice  8.50 

13  lbs.  tea  9.75 

150  lbs.  powder  48.00 

125  lbs.  shot  12.00 

160  lbs.  small  bar  lead  10.40 

2  lbs.  pepper  .33 

3  hatchets  2.25 

4  sickles  2.00 
6  axes  with  handles  12.00 
2  barrels  lyed  corn,  7  bushels  7.87 
2  April 

2  pieces  Russia  sheeting  18.00 

3  barrels  mess  pork  72.00 
2  kegs  white  lead  6.00 

5  gals,  linseed  oil  7.25 

37  oz.  red  lead,  keg  25^  4.88 
1  bottle  Japan  varnish  .75 
drayage  1.25 

309.48 


89 


Voucher  No.  11,  St.  Louis,  29  Nov.  1839 
U.S.  to  the  Steamboat  Antelope 

5  April 

For  freight  and  passage  of  Lt.  Fremont  and  party: 
freight  to  Fort  Pierre  322.20 

4  cabin  passages  300.00 

6  men  on  deck  120.00 

742.20 

Certified  by  E.  Chouteau,  master. 

Voucher  No.  12,  St.  Louis,  4  Dec.  1839 
U.S.  to  Papin  &  Halsey  {for  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company) 

For  sundries  furnished  Lt.  Fremont  at  Fort  Pierre: 

1  Sept. 

4  carts  and  harness  complete  220.00 

4  mules  320.00,  1  horse  70.00  390.00 

4  Indian  horses  240.00 

4  Northwest  guns  80.00 

1  fowling  gun  25.00,  3  powder  horns  1.50  26.50 

2  months'  time  of  5  men  @  25.00  per  month  250.00 
62  days'  hire  of  6  carts,  3  horses,  3  mules,  and  harness,  each 

cart  per  day  1.50  558.00 

62  days'  hire  of  2  used  guns  and  3  horns  2.75 

62  days'  hire  of  3  Northwest  guns  15.00 

1782.25 

Certified  by  P.  D.  Papin  and  JCF,  and  receipted  by  Pierre  Chouteau,  Jr., 
and  Co.  Pierre  Didier  Papin  (b.  1798)  was  an  agent  of  Chouteau  at  Fort 
Pierre,  along  with  Jacob  Halsey  (d.  1842).  Papin  would  be  assigned  to  take 
charge  of  Fort  Laramie  in  1845,  and  thus  have  further  dealings  with  JCF. 

Voucher  No.  13,  Washington,  8  July  1840 
U.S.  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 

For  transportation  from  Washington  to  St.  Louis,  911  mi. 
In  Northwest  Territory  from  9  June  to  26  Aug.,  78  days 

at  18  mi.  per  day,  1404  mi. 
From  14  Sept.  to  26  Oct.,  43  days  at  18  mi.  per  day,  774  mi. 
From  St.  Peters  to  St.  Louis,  694  mi. 
Fort  Pierre  to  Oak  Wood  on  James  River,  118  mi. 

90 


James  River  to  Devil's  Lake  362  mi. 
Devil's  Lake  to  Lac  qui  Parle,  520  mi. 
Lac  qui  Parle  to  St.  Peters,  470  mi. 
St.  Peters  to  St.  Louis,  694  mi. 
St.  Louis  to  Washington,  911  mi. 

Total,  6858  mi.  @  10^  per  mi.  685.80 

Endorsed  by  JCF:  "The  number  of  miles  daily  made  in  the  N.  W.  Terry, 
could  not  be  exactly  ascertained.  An  average  was  taken.  C.  Fremont." 

Voucher  No.  14,  Washington,  8  July  1840 
US.  to  /.  N.  Nicollet 

For  services  rendered  in  making  geographical  surveys  of 
the  country  west  of  the  Mississippi,  from  7  April  1838 

to  7  July  1840,  inclusive,  823  days  @  8.00  per  diem  6584.00 

Amount  reed,  of  Lt.  C.  Fremont  on  account  1000.00 

Amount  reed,  of  Lt.  C.  Fremont  on  account  100.00 

Amount  reed,  of  Lt.  C.  Fremont  on  account  2000.00 

3484.00 

Voucher  No.  15,  Washington,  21  July  1840 
U.S.  to  Ludolph  Mailer 

For  services  as  assistant  calculator  on  reduction  of  maps 
from  North  West  Surveys  for  70  days,  from  12  May  to  20 
July  @  2.00  per  diem  140.00 

Ludolph  Miiller,  whom  JCF  hired  to  assist  him  with  the  preparation  of  the 
Nicollet  map,  does  not  appear  in  the  various  Washington,  D.C.,  directories 
for  the  1830s  and  1840s. 

Voucher  No.  16,  Washington,  19  Aug.  1840 
U.S.  to  William  Fischer 

10  Aug. 

1  card  mapping  pens  1.25 

1  stick  India  ink  .37^ 

^  doz.  Roohs  pencils  1.00 

china  cup  .06^ 

2.68i 

William  Fischer,  stationer,  was  located  at  Stationer's  Hall,  Washington, 
D.C.  JCF  has  made  a  small  error  in  addition,  and  the  total  should  be  $2.69. 

91 


Voucher  No.  17,  Washington,  20  Aug.  1840 
U.S.  to  Geo.  &■  T.  Parser 

7  June 

1  box  candles  17.61 

20  Aug. 

1  box  candles  17.48 

3108 

In  1843,  George  and  T.  Parker  were  grocers  on  the  north  side  of  the  Centre 
Market  Place,  between  Seventh  and  Eighth  W.,  Washington. 


Voucher  No.  18,  Washington,  20  Aug.  1840 
U.S.  to  Franck^  Taylor 

1  Colton's  map  of  Iowa  2.75 

1  Colton's  map  of  Missouri  .62^ 

3.37i 

Franck   Taylor,  a   book   dealer,   advertised   in  the   Daily  National  Intelli- 
gencer, 24  Dec.  1839,  that  he  was  "four  doors  east  of  Gadsby's  Hotel." 


Voucher  No.  19,  Washington,  30  Sept.  1840 
U.S.  to  Ludolph  MUller 

For  services  as  assistant  to  }.  N.  Nicollet  from  1  Aug.  to  30 
Sept.  @  2.00  per  diem  122.00 

Fourth  Quarter,  1840 

Voucher  No.  1,  Washington,  28  Sept.  1840 
U.S.  to  Post  Office  Department 

Postage  on  one  letter  weighing  2  oz.  2.00 


Voucher  No.  2,  Washington,  1  Oct.  1840 
U.S.  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 

For  services  rendered  as  superintendent  of  the  government 
surveys  in  the  Northwestern  Country,  from  8  July  to 
30  Sept.  1840  @  8.00  per  diem  680.00 

92 


Voucher  No.  3,  Washington 

,  30  Nov.  1840 

U.S.  to  Thomas  Triplett 

29  Oct. 

6  yds.  cotton  for  a  map 

1.00 

pasting  paper  on  same 
6  yds.  linen  for  maps 

2.00 
2.00 

pasting  paper  on  same 
sewing  the  linen  for  the  maps 
6  yds.  linen 

4.00 
.50 
1.871 

1  paste  brush 

1.00 

12.371 

Thomas  Triplett,  a  bookbinder,  was  on  Massachusetts  Avenue  between 
Sixth  and  Seventh  in  1846. 

Voucher  No.  4,  Washington,  20  Dec.  1840 
U.S.  to  William  King,  Jr. 

For  repairing  3  instrument  boxes  8.25 

William  King,  Jr.,  may  be  the  son  of  the  cabinet  maker  William  King, 
listed  in  Benjamin  Roman's  Directory  of  Georgetown,  D.C.,  as  being  on 
Congress  Street,  near  Water  [31st  near  K  Street]. 

Voucher  No.  5,  Washington,  30  Dec.  1840 
U.S.  to  C.  M.  Eaf{in 

For  1  box  of  colors  to  be  used  in  construction  of  map  of  North 
Western  Surveys  7.50 

Constant  M.  Eakin  was  an  assistant  in  the  Coast  Survey. 

Voucher  No.  6,  Washington,  30  Dec.  1840 
U.S.  to  Ludolph  Mailer 

For  37  days  work,  assisting  in  the  office  on  detail  drawings, 
from  24  Nov.  to  30  Dec.  1840  @  2.00  per  diem  74.00 

Voucher  No.  7,  Washington,  31  Dec.  1840 
U.S.  to  Charles  Renard 

12  sheets  drawing  paper  for  maps  11.00 

6  yds.  linen  1.50 

sewing  for  2  maps  1.12^ 


2 


93 


bookbinder  work  1.62^ 

tacks  -10 

15.35 

Charles  Renard,  according  to  cajori,   179,  was  also  one  of  Ferdinand   R. 
Hassler's  assistants. 

The  documents  presented  above  are  in  DNA-217,  Third  Auditor's  Reports 
and  Accounts,  Acct.  No.  10954. 


28.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Joel  R.  Poinsett 

Bureau  of  Topol.  Engrs. 
Washington,  Jany.  25th  1841 
Sir 

I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  your  direction  to  report  upon 
that  part  of  a  Resolution  of  the  Military  Committee  of  the  House 
of  Representatives  in  reference  to  the  amount  required  to  extend 
the  Surveys,  and  to  publish  the  map  lately  made  by  Mr.  Nicollet. 

For  the  amount  required  to  extend  the  Survey,  allow  me  to  refer 
to  the  estimate  which  accompanied  the  annual  report  from  this 
office,  12th  Novbr.  1840,  in  which  there  is  an  item: 

"for  continuing  the  military  and  geographical  surveys  west  of  the 
Mississippi  .  .  .  $20,000.00." 

In  reference  to  the  cost  of  publishing  the  map  already  made,  I  sub- 
mit a  letter  from  Mr.  Stone.^  The  map  ought  to  be  engraved  on 
the  same  scale  on  which  it  is  drawn,  for,  if  reduced,  justice  will 
not  be  done  to  the  work,  as  many  highly  interesting  details  would 
have  to  be  omitted.  I  hope,  therefore,  that  no  reduction  of  the  Scale 
will  be  authorized. 

In  a  work  of  the  importance  of  this  involving  as  well  the  repu- 
tation of  the  War  Department  by  which  it  was  directed,  as  that  of 
the  officer  by  whom  the  Survey  has  been  made,  it  is  proper  that 
some  person  should  be  held  responsible  for  its  accuracy.  I  hope, 
therefore,  that  any  direction  to  print  the  same  will  also  contain 
authority  for  its  being  done  under  the  direction  of  this  office. 

The  map  should  be  engraved,  as  the  best,  the  most  economical, 
and  the  most  creditable  method  of  exhibiting  work  of  that  char- 

94 


acter;  the  price  stated  by  Mr.  Stone  is  not  beyond  a  rigid  valuation  of 
a  moderate  compensation  for  the  materials,  talents  and  labors  which 
the  engraving  will  require;  and  as  the  plates  will  belong  to  the 
U.S.,  future  editions  of  the  map  can  be  issued,  at  no  greater  cost 
than  for  the  labor  of  printing  and  for  the  paper  required,  and  future 
additions  can  be  engraved  upon  the  same  plates. 

There  is  a  report  in  preparation  which  should  accompany  the 
map,  and  for  the  printing  of  which  it  is  also  desirable  to  have 
authority. 

The  direction  might  be  to  have  these  laid  before  Congress  during 
its  next  session,  as  it  is  not  possible  to  have  them  in  time  for  the 
present.  Very  respectfully, 

J.  J.  Abert 
CI.  C.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  4:359-60). 

1.  W.  }.  Stone  (1798-1865),  London-born  engraver  and  lithographer  who 
spent  more  than  fifty  years  in  Washington.  The  estimate  he  sent  to  Abert  has 
not  been  found. 


29.  Joel  R.  Poinsett  to  Levi  Woodbury 

February  26-1841 
i     Sir, 

I  have  the  honor  to  request  that  certain  township  plats  on  file  in 
the  General  Land  Office,  which  will  be  designated  by  the  bearer, 
Lieut.  Fremont,  may  be  delivered  to  him  to  be  used  for  a  few  days, 
to  aid  in  filling  up  the  details  of  a  map  of  the  North  Western  terri- 
tory, now  being  constructed  under  the  direction  of  this  department. 

JRP. 

Lbk  (DNA-107,  LS,  23:224).  Levi  Woodbury  (1789-1851)  was  Secretary 
of  the  Treasury  and  would  soon  serve  as  a  U.S.  senator  from  New  Hampshire. 


95 


30.  }.  }.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topographical  Eng. 
Washington,  June  4th.  1841 
Sir. 

You  will  repair  without  delay  to  the  mouth  of  the  Rac[c]oon  fork 
of  the  Des  Moines,  in  order  to  determine  that  position,  and  the  To- 
pography of  the  adjacent  country.  You  will  also  make  a  survey  of  the 
Des  Moines,  from  the  Rac[c]oon  fork  to  its  mouth. 

As  this  information  is  wanted  for  the  map  of  the  Western  Coun- 
try now  being  made,  you  will  infuse  all  the  industry  in  your  power 
in  the  execution  of  the  duty ;  and  if  practicable,  be  back  to  this  city 
early  in  August.  Respectfully, 

J.  J.  Abert 
Col.  C.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  4:480).  In  the  role  of  legend-makers,  the  Fremonts  per- 
petuated the  story  that  JCF  had  been  sent  to  survey  the  Des  Moines  River  to 
get  him  away  from  Washington  and  the  charms  of  young  Jessie  Benton.  His 
campaign  biographer,  John  Bigelow,  mentions  a  "mysterious  but  inexorable 
order"  to  survey  the  river  (bigelow,  34),  and  JCF's  own  memoirs  say, 
"Whether  or  not  this  detachment  from  Washington  originated  with  Mr. 
Nicollet  or  not  I  do  not  know,  but  I  was  loath  to  go"  (memoirs,  68).  Actually 
the  boundary  between  Missouri  and  Iowa  Territory  was  in  dispute  and  per- 
haps Benton  hoped  JCF's  survey  of  the  lower  course  of  the  Des  Moines 
would  bolster  the  expansionist  claims  of  the  Missourians.  Furthermore,  the 
Nicollet  map  would  be  more  valuable  with  such  a  survey.  The  area  around  the 
Raccoon  Forks  (where  the  Raccoon  joins  the  Des  Moines)  had  been  surveyed  by 
the  1st  Dragoons  when  exploring  for  a  wagon  road  between  Fort  Leaven- 
worth and  Fort  Snelling  in  1838.  Field  notes  and  a  journal  kept  by  one  of  the 
surveying  officers  are  in  DNA-77,  Box  64.  But  there  apparently  was  no  continu- 
ous and  extensive  survey  of  the  entire  river  below  the  forks,  although  Lieut. 
Albert  M.  Lea  (1808-91)  had  been  in  the  area  with  the  Dragoons  in  1835 
and  had  done  some  mapping.  His  Notes  on  the  Wisconsin  Territory,  Partic- 
ularly with  Reference  to  the  Iowa  District  or  Blac{  Haw\  Purchase  was  pub- 
lished in  Philadelphia  in  1836. 

One  further  survey,  ordered  by  Abert  in  Dec.  1840,  had  limited  objectives 
and  a  small  budget,  and  appears  to  have  been  concerned  mainly  with  obstruc- 
tions to  navigation,  which  in  itself  had  boundary  overtones.  See  the  report  of 
Capt.  William  B.  Guion,  of  the  Topographical  Engineers,  9  Oct.  1841, 
DNA-77,  LR,  2:70. 

If,  as  the  story  goes.  Senator  Thomas  Hart  Benton  had  JCF  sent  out  of 
Washington  so  that  he  might  forget  about  Jessie,  there  is  a  note  of  irony  in 
the  incident.  When  JCF  submitted  his  report  on  the  Des  Moines  in  the  fol- 
lowing spring  (see  Doc.  No.  37),  the  entire  document  except  the  maps  was  in 
Jessie's  hand. 

96 


I 


31.  Joseph  N.  Nicollet  to  Fremont 


Washington,  July  11, 1841 
My  dear  Fremont, 

I  have  received  with  joy  your  letter  dated  St.  Louis,  23rd  of  June 
past,  and  I  was  happy  to  learn  that  all  was  going  according  to  your 
wishes  to  assure  the  success  of  your  short  and  interesting  mission. 
I  assure  you  that  your  absence  is  no  less  sad  to  me  here  than  mine 
had  been  to  you  in  St.  Louis.  I  thank  you  for  the  touching  memento 
of  your  friendship.  No  day  passes  when  I  do  not  accompany  you  in 
heart  and  thought  in  all  your  moves.  I  calculate  your  arrival  in 
Racoon  fork,  and  I  see  with  sorrow  that  the  moon  is  going,  and 
that  we  won't  have  much  distance  from  the  moon  to  the  stars,  un- 
less you  can  stand  upright  after  midnight.  But  you  have  the  dis- 
tances in  the  sun  during  the  day,  and  I  know  you  won't  lose  them.  I 
am  glad  that  you  have  taken  Mr.  Geyer  to  help  you.  You  had  not 
left  Baltimore  when  the  idea  came  to  me  and  I  would  have  written 
to  St.  Louis  to  give  you  the  idea,  if  I  had  not  thought  that  Mr. 
Geyer  was  probably  involved  in  work  and  that  he  could  not  have 
accepted  your  offer.  I  am  deeply  distressed  with  what  you  tell  me  of 
his  situation.  Unfortunately,  I  cannot  do  all  that  you  ask  me  for 
him.  I  can  do  only  half,  and  I  am  writing  to  Mr.  Chouteau  to  give 
him  the  sum  of  100  dollars  for  me,  until  I  can  do  something  more. 
It  would  not  be  convenient  for  me  to  send  this  money  to  his  land- 
lord, and  for  the  sake  of  Geyer  I  should  not  do  it,  either.  It  would 
be  better  for  him  to  arrange  his  own  affairs  without  his  landlord 
knowing  what  goes  on  between  us,  between   friends.   Besides,  I 
would  not  have  another  way  of  sending  this  money  except  by  Mr. 
Chouteau,  with  whom  I  have  an  account,  and  who  will  advance  me 
the  sum.  But  Mr.  Chouteau,  to  whom  I  am  writing  for  this,  doesn't 
know  for  what  reason  I  am  sending  this  sum  to  Mr.  Geyer,  thus  the 
latter  need  have  no  qualms  in  presenting  himself  to  receive  it  and 
give  an  acknowledgment.  I  am  writing  a  short  note  to  Mr.  Geyer, 
being  very  hurried,  but  explain  all  of  this  to  him  and  tell  him  that 
it  is  with  great  pleasure  that  I  come  to  his  aid,  but  with  great  regret 
not  to  be  able  to  do  more.^  Moreover,  I  shall  see  Mr.  Geyer  in  the 
month  of  September  next.  My  health,  while  better,  is  not  strong, 
and  I  need  two  months  of  leave,  that  I  will  take  sometime  after 

97 


your  return  here,  for  it  is  indispensable  that  one  of  the  two  of  us  be 
here. 

We  have  worked  very  hard,  I  don't  go  out  anymore,  all  continues 
to  be  fine,  even  very  fine,  with  our  superiors,  the  Col.  and  Mr.  Bell. 
The  revision  of  the  copy  of  the  map  took  us  26  days.  All  the  names 
are  written;  it  lacks  only  your  work  on  the  Desmoines,  and  to  finish 
the  topography.  I  will  not  change  anything  of  your  admirable  Mis- 
souri. Two  small  errors  in  your  drawing,  and  two  errors  in  the 
computations  reconciled  the  whole  business.  I  can't  tell  you  the 
chagrin  I  felt  at  first  in  destroying  the  beautiful  Piece  of  the  Mis- 
souri. Later,  what  joy!  when  I  saw  that  nothing  would  be  changed. 
The  Map  has  not  yet  come  back  from  Stone's,  and  Mr.  Scammon'' 
has  still  not  been  able  to  do  anything  on  the  topography.  But  it 
will  soon  be  here.  Don't  forget  that  I  am  counting  on  you  for  my 
Coteau  des  Prairies  and  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi  rivers.  So  come 
as  promptly  as  possible,  everyone  here  and  in  Baltimore  asks  for 
you,  even  at  Mr.  B  .  .  .  's,^  each  time  I  go  there.  The  young  ladies 
arrived  the  day  before  yesterday,  in  the  evening,  ten  days  later  than 
they  were  expected,  because  of  the  Grandma  who  died  the  moment 
when  they  were  to  start  out  to  return  to  Washington.  Everything  is 
fine,  you  are  happily  and  impatiently  awaited. 

I  am  beginning  to  enjoy  the  pleasure  of  thinking  that  you  are  at 
the  end  of  your  work,  and  that  you  have  succeeded  at  least  in  the 
main  points.  Mr.  Chouteau  will  be  glad  to  see  you  again.  He  spent 
two  weeks  here.  Have  you  gathered  any  fossils  ?  I  would  be  pleased 
if  Mr.  Geyer  could  gather  some  around  St.  Louis,  such  as  Gravel, 
Fluorspar,  with  some  specimens  of  the  rock  to  which  they  belong, 
all  labeled  in  order  of  superposition.  If  he  can  do  that  for  me,  pay, 
I  beg  you,  expenses  and  his  time  for  me.  I  would  also  like  some 
specimens  of  the  limestone  on  which  the  city  of  St.  Louis  rests, 
from  Market  Street  all  the  way  to  the  bottom  of  the  Mississippi,  if 
it's  possible.  I  need  that  to  complete  my  collection,  having  lost  part 
of  that  which  I  had  gathered  in  1837. 

You  haven't  told  me  anything  of  the  commissions  which  I  gave 
you  for  our  friend,  Dr.  Engelmann.^  Give  him  my  best,  and  tell  him 
that  I  will  bring  him  his  Barometer.  Mr.  Goebel's  [record  of]  the 
eclipse  [is  not]  necessary  to  me,  but  I  would  be  relieved  to  have  the 
local  information  that  I  asked  him  in  order  to  put  his  observatory 
on  the  map  and  to  make  his  work  known.*'  I  haven't  heard  anything 
about  that  yet.  I  am  at  the  end  of  my  paper,  I  would  Hke  to  chat 

98 


I 


with  you  again,  but  I  don't  recall  anything  of  importance.  If  any- 
thing comes  to  me,  I  will  write  you  again.  I  await  you  with  open 
arms  to  embrace  and  to  congratulate  you.  All  the  best, 

J.  N.  Nicollet 

Ask  our  friend  Dr.  Engelmann  to  send  the  enclosed  note  to  Mr. 
Goebel. 

ALS,  RC  (lU — Fremont  Papers).  This  letter,  in  French,  was  presented  to 
the  University  of  Illinois  by  Allan  Nevins,  who  received  it  from  the  Fremont 
family.  Addressed,  "Lieut.  Chs.  Fremont  of  the  Topographical  Corps  St. 
Louis  (Mo.)." 

L  The  gist  of  this  passage  seems  to  be  that  botanist  Charles  A.  Geyer  is  in 
financial  difficulties,  although  it  is  not  completely  clear  whether  Nicollet  is 
lending  or  giving  him  $100.00.  Taking  Geyer  along  on  the  Des  Moines  River 
survey  seems  to  have  been  JCF's  idea.  Although  Geyer  obviously  went  for 
the  sake  of  making  plant  collections,  JCF  could  only  hire  him  as  an  engage 
and  boat  hand  (see  Doc.  No.  36)  at  $1.50  per  day. 

2.  Colonel  Abert  and  John  Bell,  who  served  briefly  as  Secretary  of  War  un- 
der President  Harrison  in  184L 

3.  Lieut.  Eliakim  Scammon  (d.  1894),  of  the  Corps  of  Topographical 
Engineers. 

4.  The  home  of  Senator  Thomas  Hart  Benton.  The  last  sentence  in  the  para- 
graph is,  of  course,  a  veiled  reference  to  the  friendship  between  JCF  and 
Jessie. 

5.  A  German  emigrant,  Dr.  George  Engelmann  (1809-84)  practiced  medi- 
cine in  St.  Louis  but  was  mainly  known  as  a  botanist  and  pioneer  meteorol- 
ogist. He  corrresponded  widely  with  other  scientists,  and  his  strategic  location 
at  the  edge  of  the  frontier  put  him  in  an  excellent  position  to  observe  and 
participate  in  scientific  advances  in  new  geographical  areas. 

6.  David  Goebel  (1787-1872)  had  come  to  Missouri  from  Coburg,  Ger- 
many, in  1834,  becoming  a  farmer,  teacher,  and  surveyor.  The  information 
which  Nicollet  mentions  is  apparendy  to  be  found  in  a  notebook  now  at  the 
State  Historical  Society  of  Missouri,  containing  astronomical  observations, 
barometric  pressures,  and  thermometric  readings  made  in  eastern  Missouri 
from  1840  to  1844  {Mo.  Hist.  Rev.,  35:613). 


32.  Fremont  to  Ramsay  Crooks 

Washington  City 
August  12th  1841 
My  Dear  Sir. 

Mr.  [John  F.  A.]  Sanford  has  had  the  kindness  to  take  charge  of 
a  very  interesting  collection  of  minerals  which  he  proposes  to  for- 

99 


ward  to  us  through  you.  Mr.  Nicollet  joins  me  in  requesting  that 
you  will  have  the  kindness  to  send  it  to  the  care  of  the  Revd.  Mr. 
Raymond/  President  of  St.  Mary's  College,  Baltimore,  Md.  In  pre- 
senting his  warm  regards  to  you  Mr.  N.  desires  me  to  say  that  he 
expects  to  have  the  pleasure  of  seeing  you  about  the  20th  in  New 
York,  He  has  had  a  severe  attack  of  illness  &  his  health  is  at  present 
quite  bad.  Annexed  I  send  you  a  Draft  for  the  amt.  you  had  the 
kindness  to  advance  for  which  I  beg  leave  to  repeat  my  acknowl- 
edgements. Most  Respectfully  &  truly  Yr.  Obt.  Servt. 

J.  Ch.  Fremont 

ALS,  RC  (NHi — American  Fur  Company  Papers).  Addressed,  "Ramsay 
Crooks  Esqre.  Rear  39  Ann  St.  New  York  N.Y."  Endorsed;  reed.  14  Aug. 
and  answered  14  Aug.  Crooks'  reply  acknowledged  receipt  of  a  check  for 
$100  and  assured  JCF  that  the  minerals  would  be  sent  to  Baltimore  when  they 
arrived  (Lbk,  17:134). 

1.  Father  Gilbert  Raymond,  later  president — in  1850 — of  St.  Charles'  Col- 
lege for  boys,  fifteen  miles  from  Baltimore  (cath.  almanac). 


33.  Fremont  to  Ramsay  Crooks 

Washington  D.C.  Sepr.  15th.  1841 


Dear  Sir 


Your  esteemed  favor  of  Uth  Currt.  came  safely  to  hand  yesterday. 
I  am  quite  glad  to  receive  intelligence  of  the  Box,  respecting  which 
I  had  begun  to  feel  some  anxiety.  May  I  so  far  trespass  on  your 
kindness  as  to  beg  that  you  will  have  it  sent  to  this  place  per  Rail 
Road,  accompanied  by  Charges  ?  I  hope  you  will  excuse  the  trouble 
I  sincerely  regret  giving  &  which  I  could  not  well  avoid. 

It  gives  me  pleasure  to  hear  that  Mr.  Nicollet's  health  is  improving 
so  much.  I  trust  that  you  are  regaining  yours  as  rapidly  &  with  the 
warmest  regards  for  yourself  remain  Very  truly  &  Respectfully  Dr. 
Sir  Yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont 

ALS,  RC  (NHi — American  Fur  Company  Papers).  Addressed;  endorsed; 
reed.  19  Sept.,  answered  5  Oct.  Crooks'  letter  of  11  Sept.  advised  JCF  that 
fur  company  agents  in  New  Orleans  had  received  a  box  addressed  from  St. 
Louis,  and  were  shipping  it  on  to  New  York.  He  asked  for  instructions  about 
the  disposal  of  the  package  and  made  brief  comments  on  Nicollet's  recent 

100 


visit  to  New  York  and  the  improved  state  of  the  scientist's  health  (Lbk, 
17:254).  On  5  Oct.,  Crooks  was  able  to  inform  JCF  that  the  box  had  arrived, 
that  it  had  been  sent  on  to  Washington,  and  that  the  charges  were  $1.25  (Lbk, 
17:348). 


34.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  to  Topographical  Engineers 
Washington,  Octr.  10th.  1841 
Sm, 

Your  letter  of  the  9th  inst.  has  just  been  received.  The  Resolution 
of  the  Senate,  in  reference  to  the  Map  to  which  you  allude,  places 
the  Superintendance  of  its  publication  under  this  office;  your  course 
therefore,  in  reporting  your  fears  upon  the  subject  is  correct  and  ap- 
proved. 

The  work  of  the  drawing  should  long  since  have  been  removed  to 
this  office,  that  a  knowledge  of  its  progress,  as  well  as  that  of  the 
Engraver,  could  have  been  known. 

You  will  therefore,  without  delay,  remove  your  work  as  indicated, 
where  the  Engraver  will  be  sent  for,  and  the  matter  of  your  letter 
fully  enquired  into.  Very  Respectfully,  &c. 

J.  J.  Abert 
Col.  C.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  5:37).  JCF's  letter  of  9  Oct.,  to  which  this  is  a  reply,  is 
not  registered  in  the  bureau's  records  and  has  not  been  found. 


35.   Ferdinand  H.  Gerdes  to  Fremont 

Washington  7  Novb.  1841 
My  dear  Mr.  Fremont. 

Your  letter  dated  Balto.  I  have  received  in  due  time,  and,  would 
not  have  delayed  my  answer  on  this  particular  occasion  for  an  hour, 
if  it  had  not  been  for  breaking  up  my  camp  and  leaving  for  Wash- 
ington. I  have  arrived  here  on  Friday  morning,  and  now  I  hasten  to 
offer  you  my  best  congratulations  and  beg  you  to  accept  my  most 

lOI 


sincere  wishes  for  your  future  happiness.  Perhaps  you  have  noticed, 
Mr.  Fremont,  that  I  am  not  very  fond  of  much  and  big  talk,  but  so 
much  I  can  assure  you,  that  none  of  your  friends — (you  have  per- 
mitted me  to  class  myself  amongst  them) — feel  a  w^armer  interest 
for  you  then  I  do,  that  no  one  wishes  more  truly  and  cordial,  that  those 
expectations  of  a  blessed  domestic  happiness,  w[h]ich  you  naturally 
must  have  formed,  may  sooti  and  continually  be  realized.  I  hope  you 
will  not  think  it  to  great  a  liberty,  when  I  repeat  the  words  "soon". 
— Although  my  dear  Mr.  Fr.  I  can  not  judge  in  this  particular  case 
clearly,  yet  I  would  venture  to  say,  that  any  delay  of  an  open  decla- 
ration, w[h]ich  some  time  or  another  must  follow,  makes  your  ex- 
cuse less  well,  as  this  declaration  itself,  much  more  difficult.  Beside 
the  possibility  of  an  accidental  discovery  is  very  strong! — Why  don't 
you  go,  manly  and  open  as  you  are,  forward  and  put  things  by  a 
single  step  to  right — never  mind  in  what  this  step  consists — only  act 
now  and  you  will  soo7i  get  over  little  disturbances  w[h]ich  might 
arise  at  first.  Nothing  very  serious  can  happen  now  more  to  you — 
the  prize  is  secured  and  the  rest  will  soon  be  smoothed  by  help  of 
time  and  mutual  affection  and  love. 

If  I  am  mistaken  in  my  suggestion,  it  is  for  want  of  information, 
and  then  I  beg  to  forgive  me.  It  is  friendship  that  makes  me  write  so. 
Anyhow,  I  symp[ath]ize  with  you — and  entertain  no  fears  for  a 
fortunate  conclusion. 

I  arrived  here  on  Friday  morning  and  am  perfectly  happy  in  the 
society  of  my  lovely  girl.  I  don't  like  it  much  you  beat  me  so  de- 
cidedly, but  I  hope  now  to  follow  soon,  and  then  if  I  should  go  out 
in  Spring  again,  I  will  not  have  to  leave  her  behind  me.  I  had  no 
time  in  Balto.  to  call  on  you,  beside  I  did  not  know  your  residence 
alto'  supposing  it  be  Barnums. 

Mrs.  Cummings  and  Mary^  desire  to  be  remembered  to  you  and  I 
conclude  with  the  assurance  of  friendship  and  personal  esteem. 
Yours  very  truly, 

F.  H.  Gerdes 

When  walking  last  night  with  my  Mary  &  Mrs.  C.  we  met  Mrs.  F. 
I  had  a  glimpse  at  her,  and  thought  she  looked  very  well  and  happy. 
Excuse  all  the  blots,  neither  pen  nor  ink  are  good  for  anything. 

ALS,  RC  (CU-B — Fremont  Papers).  Addressed,  "Lieut.  J.  C.  Freemont  I 
U.S.  Topogr.  Engineers  Baltimore."  From  Baltimore  the  letter  was  forwarded  ' 
to  Charleston,  S.C. 

102 


The  letter  requires  a  longer  note  than  its  importance  might  indicate.  It  is 
one  of  the  few  extant  personal  letters  to  JCF  in  this  period,  and  has  been 
quoted  before  (as  in  nevins,  69-70),  but  the  writer  has  not  previously  been 
identified.  His  signature  is  very  poor  and  has  usually  been  rendered  "F.  W. 
Gody."  Because  he  mentions  "breaking  up  my  camp  and  leaving  for  Wash- 
ington," it  is  not  surprising  that  he  has  been  considered  a  frontiersman  whom 
JCF  may  have  met  in  the  Mississippi  or  Missouri  valleys.  He  is  obviously  of 
JCF's  generation  and  feels  qualified  to  speak  of  such  personal  matters  as  the 
secret  marriage  of  the  Fremonts. 

The  writer's  reference  to  "Mrs.  Cummings  and  Mary"  wishing  to  be  re- 
membered to  JCF,  and  the  fact  that  he  had  been  out  walking  "with  my  Mary  & 
Mrs.  C,"  provided  the  first  lead.  The  financial  records  had  already  revealed 
that  JCF  was  renting  rooms  for  the  work  of  the  Survey  from  Mary  J.  Cum- 
mings. It  occurred  to  us  that  the  writer  of  the  letter  might  be  courting  a  girl 
named  Mary,  the  daughter  of  JCF's  landlady.  So  we  instituted  a  search  of 
marriage  records  in  the  District  of  Columbia  for  several  months  after  the 
letter  was  written,  and  found  that  on  26  May  1842  Miss  Mary  Cummings 
had  indeed  been  married — to  Ferdinand  H.  Gerdes.  And  then  the  signature 
began  to  look  like  "F.  H.  Gerdes." 

Born  in  Germany,  young  Gerdes  (1809-84)  was  an  assistant  in  the  U.S. 
Coast  and  CJeodetic  Survey.  He  was  engaged  in  primary  triangulation  in  New 
Jersey  and  Maryland,  and  in  topographical  work  on  the  Delaware  River,  be- 
tween 1841  and  1844.  And  of  course  he  would  have  had  a  further  occasion 
to  become  acquainted  with  JCF  through  his  superintendent,  F.  R.  Hassler. 
During  the  Civil  War,  Gerdes  served  on  special  duty  with  the  Gulf  Squadron 
under  Farragut,  then  did  surveying  in  western  waters.  For  an  obituary  no- 
tice, see  COAST  and  geodetic  survey,  15-16. 

JCF  and  the  seventeen-year-old  Jessie  Benton  were  married  secretly  on  19 
Oct.  1841  by  a  Catholic  priest.  Father  Van  Horseigh,  after  two  Protestant 
clergymen  had  refused  to  perform  the  ceremony.  For  Senator  Benton's  rage  on 
returning  from  a  western  trip  and  finding  the  couple  married,  and  for  his 
refusal  to  permit  a  second  marriage  by  a  Protestant  minister  as  Jessie's  mother 
wished,  see  the  letters  of  Jessie  to  Elizabeth  Blair  Lee,  23  July  [1856],  NjP — 
Blair-Lee  Papers,  and  Sarah  Simpson  (Hart)  Thompson  to  Nathaniel  Hart, 
19  Jan.  1842,  KyLoF — Edmund  T.  Halsey  Collection.  Mrs.  Simpson  writes 
that  Benton  would  not  let  Jessie  remain  in  his  house.  "The  marriage  was  pub- 
lished &  Fremont  took  his  wife  to  his  lodgings."  At  Mrs.  Benton's  request, 
intermediaries  finally  got  the  senator  to  treat  the  couple  with  "passing 
civility." 


103 


36.  Financial  Records,  1841 

[31  Dec.  1841] 
First  Quarter,  1841 

Voucher  No.  1,  Washington,  28  Feb.  1841 
U.S.  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 

For  services  rendered  as  superintendent  of  Northwestern 
Surveys  from  1  Oct.  1840  to  28  Feb.  1841,  151  days  at  8.00 
per  diem.  1208.00 

Voucher  No.  2,  Washington,  13  March  1841 
U.S.  to  A.  Shepherd 

J  ton  of  coal  delivered  6.25 

Endorsed  by  JCF:  "The  above  expenditure  was  authorized  by  the  Secretary 
of  War.  See  letter  from  Col.  J.  J.  Abert  appended  to  Voucher  No.  4."  The 
letter  is  our  Doc.  No.  26.  A.  Shepherd  advertised  in  the  Daily  National  In- 
telligencer, 1  Sept.  1841,  that  he  sold  coal,  firewood,  and  building  lumber  on 
Seventh  Street,  Washington. 

Voucher  No.  3,  Washington,  20  March  1841 
U.S.  to  Mary  J.  Cummin gs 

For  3  rooms  at  30  dollars  per  month  from  20  Nov.  1840  to  20 
March  1841.  120.00 

Endorsement  by  JCF  same  as  with  preceding  voucher. 

Voucher  No.  4,  Washington,  25  March  1841 
U.S.  to  Geo.  McDuell 

2  Nov. 

1  cord  hickory  wood  7.00 

2  cords  green  oak  11.00 
1  cord  seasoned  oak  5.50 

27  Nov. 

I  ton  coal  6.75 

28  Nov. 

I  ton  coal  6.75 

I  ton  coal  6.75 

1  cord  pine  wood  4.50 

104 


30  Nov. 

1  cord  oak  5.50 

26  Dec. 

I  ton  coal  6.75 

28  Dec. 

1  ton  coal  6.75 
25  Jan. 

1^  tons  coal  13.50 

Sawing  and  portage  5.75 

86.50 

George  McDuell  had  a  wood  and  coal  yard  "on  the  Tiber  or  Canal,"'  near 
Fourteenth  Street,  Washington. 

Voucher  No.  5,  Washington,  31  March  1841 
U.S.  to  Christopher  Kraft 

For  4  months'  attendance  upon  rooms  from  20  Nov.  1840  to 
20  March  1841,  @  10  per  month  40.00 

Christopher  Kraft,  a  servant,  not  further  identified. 

Second  Quarter,  1841 

Voucher  No.  1,  Washington,  20  May  1841 
U.S.  to  John  Hitz 

2  doz.  fillers  .25 
crucibles  of  different  sizes  and  descriptions  3.35 
iron  muflfle  supports  and  muffles  2.25 
chemical  reagents,  furnaces,  coal  and  all  the  necessary  labo- 
ratory implements  39.50 

4535 

John  Hitz,  a  Swiss  emigrant  and  formerly  employed  in  the  gold  mines  of 
Virginia,  had  been  engaged  by  Ferdinand  R.  Hassler  in  1835  to  make  the 
brass  that  was  necessary  for  the  standards  (cajori,  159). 

Voucher  No.  2,  Washington,  20  May  1841 
U.S.  to  John  Hitz 

For  services  rendered  to  the  United  States  as  assistant  to  J.  N. 
Nicollet  in  analysing  the  ores  and  minerals  of  the  North 
Western  Expedition,  for  15  days  from  3  May  to  17  May  @ 
4.00  per  day.  60.00 

105 


Voucher  No.  3,  Baltimore,  31  May  1841 
U.S.  to  James  Green 

30  Jan. 

1  dipping  needle  apparatus,  stand  and  case  115.00 

1  magnetic  needle  2.00 

1  double  magnifier  1.50 
29  May 

repairing  mountain  barometer  7.00 

repairing  barometer  in  tripod  7.00 

132.50 

Voucher  No.  4,  Washington,  31  May  1841 
U.S.  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 

For  services  rendered  the  U.S.  as  superintendent  of  North- 
western Surveys,  from  1  March  to  31  May  1841,  92  days  @ 
8.00  per  day.  736.00 

Voucher  No.  5,  Baltimore,  8  ]une  1841 
U.S.  to  James  Green 

1  June 

1^  lbs.  mercury  3.00 

1  thermometer  2.00 

1  compass  2.50 

750 

Voucher  No.  6,  Washington,  7  June  1841 
U.S.  to  William  Fischer 

31  May 

6  sheets  antiquarian  for  engraving  maps  6.00 

4  June 

4  sheets  antiquarian  for  same  4.00 

lOOO 

Voucher  No.  7,  Washington,  21  June  1841 
U.S.  to  Dinnies  &  Radford 

2  blank  books,  quarto  2.00 
1  blank  book  .50 
1  penknife  .50 

io6 


6  lead  pencils  .62 

1  paper  ink  powder  .12 

374 

This  voucher  was  probably  drawn   in   St.  Louis,  not  Washington,  where 
Dinnies  and  Radford  offered  books,  stationery,  and  pianos  for  sale. 

Voucher  No.  8,  St.  Louis,  22  July  1841 
U.S.  to  Steamboat  Monsoon 

For  2  sick  passengers  4.00 

Endorsed  by  JCF:   "I  certify  that  the  two  men  for  whom   transportation 
was  paid  as  above  were  in  the  service  of  the  United  States." 

Voucher  No.  9,  St.  Louis,  23  June  1841 
U.S.  to  Edward  Ploudre 

1  gray  horse  sixteen  hands  high  75.00 

Edward  Ploudre  not  identified. 

Voucher  No.  10,  St.  Louis,  23  June  1841 
U.S.  to  Jacob  Kenner 

For  making  1  box  to  serve  as  case  for  mercurial  horizon  1.62 

repairing  gun  .75 

making  box  for  geological  specimens  .75 

3I2 

Jacob  Kenner  not  identified. 

Voucher  No.  11,  St.  Louis,  23  June  1841 
U.S.  to  J.  J.  Humbert 

1  mosquito  bar  9.00 

John    J.   Humbert,  upholsterer,  born  in  Frankfurt-am-Main  and  living  in 
St.  Louis  by  1836  (van  ravenswaay). 

Voucher  No.  12,  St.  Louis,  23  June  1841 
U.S.  to  Adolphus  Meier 

21  June 

1  measuring  tape  2.50 

\  doz.  knives  and  forks  .75 

^  doz.  iron  tablespoons  .44 

107 


1  axe  and  handle,  1  hatchet  3.25 

1  frying  pan,  1  teakettle  1.75 

2  [.  .  .]  1.25 
2  [.  .  .]  .37 
1  tin  lanthorn  .50 
4  cups  .25 
1  wash  basin  .50 
4  tin  plates  .50 
1  screwdriver  .25 
1  box  .50 
Drayage  .50 

T331 

Adolphus  Meier  &  Co.,  importer  of  hardware  and  cudery,  guns,  pistols,  and 
looking  glasses,  23  Main  Street,  St.  Louis. 

Voucher  No.  13,  St.  Louis,  23  June  1841 
U.S.  to  Angelrodt,  Eggers  &  Barth 

6  lbs.  sperm  candles  3.00 

25  lbs.  coffee  3.75 

4  lbs  Imp.  tea  5.00 

2j  lbs.  soap  .25 

16  lbs.  sugar  2.91 

50  lbs.  rice  3.25 

1  can  rifle  powder  1.00 

I  barrel  crackers  2.50 

34  lbs.  chewing  tobacco  8.50 

4  lbs.  chocolate  1.00 

1  box  .25 

6  boxes  matches  .19 

1  ream  paper  2.75 

1435 

Angelrodt,  Eggers,  and  Barth,  165  Main  Street,  St.  Louis,  were  importers 
and  dealers  in  groceries,  liquors,  wines,  and  cigars. 

Voucher  No.  14,  St.  Louis,  25  June  1841 
U.S.  to  Jaccard  &  Co, 

cleaning  and  repairing  chronometer  5.00 

1  card  steel  pens  1.00 

6!00 

io8 


Voucher  No.  15,  St.  Louis,  25  ]une  1841 
U.S.  to  Grimsley  &  Young 

1  Spanish  saddle  7.00 

1  fine  bridle  4.50 

1  martingale  1.00 

12.50 

Voucher  No.  16,  St.  Louis,  25  June  1841 
U.S.  to  B.  W.  Ayres 

Keeping  1  horse  2  days,  23  to  25  June,  @  500  per  diem  1.00 

B.  W.  Ayres  kept  the  Green  Tree  Tavern  at  68  Second,  St.  Louis. 

Voucher  No.  17,  St.  Louis,  25  June  1841 
U.S.  to  Grimsley  &  Young 

3  side  hobbles  2.25 

Voucher  No.  18,  St.  Louis,  25  June  1841 
U.S.  to  Jacob  Blattner 

1  spyglass  made  by  Franzenhofer,  Munich  50.00 

Jacob  Blattner  made  and  sold  an  assortment  of  mathematical,  optical,  and 
physical  instruments.  In  1841,  he  moved  his  establishment  from  Chestnut  to 
34  Olive  Street,  St.  Louis. 

Voucher  No.  19,  Churchville,  Mo.,  26  June  1841 
U.S.  to  Steamboat  Monsoon 

Passage  for  one  from  St.  Louis  to  Churchville  5.00 

2  deck  passages  for  Chas.  A.  Geyer  and  C,  Lambert  [  ?]  4.00 
Freight  on  8  packages  merchandise  .75 

975 

For  a  note  on  Clement  Lambert,  see  under  voucher  no.  3,  third  quarter, 
below. 

Voucher  No.  20,  Washington,  5  June  1841 
U.S.  to  Polkjnhorn  &  Campbell 

1  leather  cover  for  sextant  3.50 

Polkinhorn  and  Campbell  are  listed  as  harness  and  trunk  makers  in  the 
Washington  directory  for  1843. 

109 


Voucher  No.  21,  Washingto?j,  20  June  1841 
U.S.  to  Jane  Cummin gs 

Hire  of  3  rooms  and  servant  to  attend  same  at  40.00  per 
month  for  3  months,  20  March  to  20  June  1841  120.00 


Third  Quarter,  1841 

Voucher  No.  1,  Churchville ,  Mo.,  20  July  1841 
U.S.  to  L.  B.  Mitchell 

For  furnishing  a  wagon,  2  mules  and  driver  for  transporta- 
tion of  party  engaged  in  the  Survey  of  the  Des  Moines 
River,  from  Churchville,  Mo.,  to  the  trading  post  of  the 
American  Fur  Co.  in  the  Sac  and  Fox  Indian  country.  34.93 

For  additional  transportation  of  two  men  between  same 
places  who  were  likewise  engaged  in  same  Survey.  20.00 

54.93 

Endorsed  by  JCF:  "In  both  cases  a  customary  allowance  was  made  to  defray 
expenses  of  wagon,  horses,  &c.  during  their  return  from  the  trading  post."  A 
man  named  L.  B.  Mitchell  crossed  the  plains  to  California  in  1850  in  com- 
pany with  A.  W.  Harlan,  who  was  emigrating  from  southeast  Iowa  (harlan). 

Voucher  No.  2,  Churchville,  Mo.,  21  July  1841 
U.S.  to  Packesayso  {SauJ{  Indian) 

For  services  as  boatman  for  21  days  from  4  July  to  24  July 
1841  @  .75  per  diem  15.75 

Signed  with  Packesayso's  mark;  no  witness. 

Voucher  No.  3,  St.  Louis,  23,  July  1841 
U.S.  to  Clement  Lambert 

For  services  to  the  U.S.  as  engage  on  the  Survey  of  the  Des 
Moines  River,  33  days  @  1.75  per  diem,  23  June  to  22  July 
1841  52.50 

For  extra  duty  as  cook  for  the  party  @  500  per  diem,  3  July 
to  20  July  _8^ 

6050 

After  serving  JCF  as  engage  and  cook  on  the  Des  Moines  River  survey, 
Clement  Lambert  served  on  the  1842  expedition  as  a  camp  conductor;  in  1845, 

IIO 


he  aided  in  preparations  for  JCF's  third  western  expedition  but  did  not  ac- 
company it.  Well  known  as  a  mountaineer  and  guide,  he  was  about  seventy- 
four  when  he  died  in  Decatur  City,  Nebr.  See  his  obituary  in  the  St.  Louis 
Missouri  Republican,  8  March  1880. 

Voucher  No.  4,  St.  Louis,  23  July  1841 
U.S.  to  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company 

22  June 

1  pair  4-pt.  blue  blankets  furnished  to  Lt.  J.  C.  Fremont  on 
his  expedition  to  the  Des  Moines  River  12.50 

Voucher  No.  5,  St.  Louis,  24  July  1841 
U.S.  to  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company 

For  the  following  articles  furnished  to  Lt.  Fremont  for  ex- 
pedition to  the  Des  Moines  River: 

8  lbs.  shot  1.00, 1  lb.  pov^^der  1.63,  salt  250  2.88 

36^  yds.  bed  ticking  13.69,  2  tin  pans  1.25,  2  same  500  15.44 

Tin  cups,  tin  kettle,  fire  steel  .67 

{illegible^  6.12 

8^  lbs.  lead  1.06,  1  barrel  flour  8.00  9.06 

65  lbs.  flour  2.60,  139  lbs.  pork  15.90  18.50 

paid  for  making  tent  4.50 

1  dressed  skin  1.00,  1  bear  skin  2.00  3.00 

18  lbs.  lard  2.25, 1  canoe  10.00  12.25 

18  days  use  of  a  mule  18.00,  18  days  use  of  v^^agon  5.00                 23.00 

5  lbs.  sugar  (iM,  20  lbs.  flour  800,  8  lbs.  lard  1.00  2.43 

transportation  of  party  from  mouth  of  the  Des  Moines  to 

Sauk  and  Fox  village  10.00 

paid  Lt.  Fremont  25.00 
hire  of  the  following  men : 

Packesayso  11.00 

Cameron  for  self  &  horse  20.00 

Vessar  [Vauchard?]  for  services  as  pilot  36.00 

A.  Netherson  [.?]  24.00 

223.85 

Filed  with  voucher  no.  24  is  a  memorandum  of  22  Feb.  1842  from  JCF, 
explaining  the  lack  of  subvouchers  for  some  of  his  expenditures  and  detailing 
once  more  his  relationship  with  the  American  Fur  Company  through  Pierre 
Chouteau,  Jr.  The  memorandum  is  in  Jessie  Benton  Fremont's  hand,  but 
signed  by  JCF.  "The  funds  to  defray  the  expenses  of  the  Des  Moines  survey 

III 


were  deposited  as  usual  in  the  Bank  at  St.  Louis,  &  on  leaving  that  place  for 
the  Des  Moines  river,  I  was  furnished  by  the  house  of  Chouteau  &  Co.  with 
letters  to  the  agent  in  the  Indian  country  requesting  him  to  furnish  me  with 
men  &  other  necessaries.  On  my  return  to  St.  Louis  at  the  close  of  the  Survey, 
payment  was  made  for  the  assistance  obtained  in  men  &  provisions  above,  to 
the  house  of  Chouteau  &  Co.,  &  a  voucher  taken  accordingly.  .  .  ."  The  men 
named  in  the  voucher  are  not  further  identified,  though  it  is  clear  that  "Vessar" 
operated  the  trading  house  on  the  Des  Moines  which  JCF  mentions  in  his 
report  (our  Doc.  No.  37).  Two  brothers  who  were  traders,  Louis  and  Charles 
Vauchard,  are  frequently  mentioned  in  the  David  Adams  Papers,  MoSHi. 

Voucher  No.  6,  St.  Louis,  24  July  1841 
U.S.  to  Charles  A.  Geyer 

For  services  rendered  the  U.S.  as  an  engage  and  boat  hand 
on  the  Survey  of  the  Des  Moines  River  from  22  June  to  22 
July,  31  days  @  1.50  per  diem.  46.50 

To  amount  expended  in  purchase  of  provisions  for  party  dur- 
ing march  from  Churchville,  Mo.,  to  the  Indian  agency  on 
the  Des  Moines  1-50 

48.00 


Voucher  No.  7,  Washington,  19  Aug.  1841 
U.S.  to  f.  N.  Nicollet 

For  services  rendered  the  U.S.  as  superintendent  of  North 
Western  Surveys,  from  1  to  31  July  1841,  31  days  @  8.00 
per  diem  248.00 

Voucher  No.  8,  Washington,  19  Aug.  1841 
U.S.  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 

For  services  rendered  the  U.S.  as  superintendent  of  North 
Western  Surveys,  from  1  to  30  June  1841,  30  days  @  8.00 
per  diem  240.00 

Voucher  No.  9,  Washington,  20  Sept.  1841 
U.S.  to  Jane  Cummin gs 

To  hire  of  3  rooms  and  servant  at  40  per  month,  3  months 
from  20  June  to  20  Sept.  1841  120.00 

Endorsed  by  J.  J.  Abert  with  the  explanation  that  Secretary  of  War  Poinsett 
had  approved  the  hire  of  the  rooms. 

112 


Fourth  Quarter,  1841 

Voucher  No.  1,  Springfield,  Mass.,  22  Oct.  1841 
U.S.  to  Wm.  Bond  &  Son 

For  a  new  detent  spring,  new  ruby  pellet,  adjusting  and 
cleaning  a  silver  pocket  chronometer  20.00 

Voucher  taken  by  Capt.  W.  H.  Swift,  Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers, 
who  was  then  paid  by  JCF.  A  manuscript  business  directory  of  Springfield 
for  1820-53,  in  the  possession  of  the  Springfield  Library  and  Museums  As- 
sociation, shows  no  listing  for  William  Bond  &  Son.  We  cannot  connect  this 
firm  with  William  Cranch  Bond  (1789-1859),  who  had  a  private  observatory 
in  Dorchester,  Mass.,  before  moving  to  Cambridge  in  1839  to  establish  the 
Harvard  Observatory. 

Voucher  No.  2,  Washington,  20  Oct.  1841 
U.S.  to  A.  D.  Melcher 

To  taking  down,  repairing,  and  moving  drawing  table  2.70 

A.  D.  Melcher  not  identified. 

Voucher  No.  3,  Washington,  13  Dec.  1841 
U.S.  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 

For  services  rendered  to  the  U.S.  as  superintendent  of  Sur- 
veys West  of  the  Mississippi  from  1  Aug.  to  30  Nov,  1841, 
122  days  @  8.00  per  diem  976.00 

Voucher  No.  4,  Washington,  13  Dec.  1841 
U.S.  to  ].  N.  Nicollet 

For  traveling  expenses  incurred  in  the  following  journey, 

performed  under  the  direction  of  the  Secretary  of  War: 

From  Washington  to  New  York,  225  mi.  22.50 

To  Albany,  151  mi.  15.10 

To  Oswego  via  Syracuse,  172  mi.  17.20 

To  Kingston  and  return,  120  mi.  12.00 

To  Niagara,  120  mi.  12.00 

To  Buffalo,  26  mi.  2.60 

To  Chicago  round  the  northern  lake,  1000  mi.  100.00 
Exploration  of  the  south  end  of  Lake  Michigan  and  return 

to  Chicago,  325  mi.  32.50 

Chicago  and  Illinois  Canal  to  Peru,  102  mi.  10.20 

"3 


Exploration  of  the  Illinois  coal  region,  415  mi.  41.50 
From  Peru  to  St.  Louis,  400  mi.  40.00 
Exploration  of  the  American  Bottom  and  shale  mineral  re- 
gion in  the  state  of  Missouri,  380  mi.  38.00 
From  Meramec  to  White  River  on  the  Mississippi,  624  mi.  62.40 
To  the  mouth  of  Ohio  River,  462  mi.  46.20 
To  Wheeling,  887  mi.  88.70 
To  Washington,  264  mi.  26.40 

567.30 

Endorsement  by  Albert  M.  Lea:  "It  appears  that  there  was  no  written 
authority  or  orders  given  to  Mr.  Nicollet  for  the  travelling  charged  for  in  the 
within  account,  and  it  has  been  submitted  to  me,  as  the  late  Chief  Clerk  of  the 
War  Department,  for  a  statement  of  the  intentions  or  directions  of  the  late 
Secretary  of  War  on  the  subject.  A  representation  made  to  the  Secretary  of 
War  that  Mr.  Nicollet's  duties  would  not  necessarily  require  his  presence  in 
the  city  during  the  Autumn  of  1841,  and  that  it  was  important  to  the  com- 
pleteness of  the  work  then  under  preparation  by  him,  the  Secretary  in  per- 
son and  through  me  directed  Mr.  Nicollet  to  perform  a  tour  of  observation 
and  exploration.  ...  It  was  intended  by  the  Secretary  at  the  time  that  all  Mr. 
Nicollet's  necessary  expenses  should  be  paid  by  the  government.  .  .  .  Wash- 
ington, D.C.,  Feby.  21,  1842." 

Albert  M.  Lea,  mentioned  briefly  in  our  note  for  Doc.  No.  30,  served  for 
a  time  as  chief  clerk  of  the  War  Department  under  Secretary  John  Bell,  and 
was  also  Acting  Secretary  for  six  weeks  under  President  Tyler. 

Voucher  No.  5,  Baltimore,  18  Dec.  1841 
U.S.  to  Auguste  Richard 

1  Buquet's  [}]  chronometer  320.00 

Auguste  Richard  was  a  watchmaker  on  Fayette  Street,  Baltimore,  in  1842; 
by  1850  his  name  had  disappeared  from  the  directories. 

Voucher  No.  6,  Washington,  24  Dec.  1841 
U.S.  to  Lemuel  Williams 

To  making  slat  for  drawing  table  1.00 

Lemuel  Williams  not  identified. 

Voucher  No.  7 ,  Washington,  10  Jan.  1842 
U.S.  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 

For  services  to  the  U.S.  as  superintendent  of  Surveys  West 
of  the  Mississippi,  for  31  days,  1  Dec.  to  31  Dec.  1841,  @ 
8.00  per  diem  248.00 

114 


Voucher  No.  8,  Washifigton,  9  Oct.  1841 
U.S.  to  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Railroad 

For  transportation  and  charges  on  the  box  containing  geo- 
logical specimens  from  the  Des  Moines  River,  from  Balti- 
more to  Washington.  .75 

Charges  paid  in  Baltimore  2.62 

The  vouchers  presented  above  are  in  DNA-217,  Third  Auditor's  Reports 
and  Accounts,  Acct.  Nos.  12245,  13327,  and  14900. 


37.  Fremont  to  J.  J.  Abert 

Washington  City  D.C.  April  14th  1842 


Sir, 


Herewith  I  have  the  honor  to  enclose  a  brief  Report,  accompanied 
by  a  Map,^  of  the  Survey  of  the  Des  Moines  river,  from  the  Racoon 
Fork  to  the  mouth,  made  conformably  to  your  directions  in  July 
1841.  Very  respectfully  Sir  your  Obdt.  Servt. 

J.  C.  Fremont 
2d  Lieut.  Topi.  Engineers 

[Enclosure^ 
Sir, 

In  pursuance  of  orders  received  at  this  city  in  June  1841,  I  left  on 
the  27th  of  the  same  month  the  small  settlement  of  Churchville,"  on 
the  west  Bank  of  the  Mississippi,  a  few  hundred  yards  below  the 
mouth  of  the  Des  Moines  river.  The  road  for  about  nine  miles  lay 
over  a  luxuriant  prairie  bottom,  bordered  by  the  timber  of  the  Fox 
&  Des  Moines  Rivers,^  &  covered  with  a  profusion  of  flowers,  among 
which  the  characteristic  plant  was  Psoralia  Orobrychis  [scurf  pea]. 
Ascending  the  Bluffs  &  passing  about  two  miles  through  a  wood 
where  the  prevailing  growth  was  Quercus  nigra  mixed  with  im- 
bricaria  [Q.  marilandica,  black  jack  oak,  and  Q.  imbricaria,  shingle 
oak],  we  emerged  on  a  narrow  level  prairie,  occupying  the  summit 
of  the  ridge  between  the  Fox  &  Des  Moines  rivers.  It  is  from  one  and 
a  half  miles  to  three  miles  in  width,  limited  by  the  timber  which 
generally  commences  with  the  descent  of  the  river  hills.  Journeying 

"5 


along  this,  the  remainder  of  the  day  &  the  next  brought  us  at  eve- 
ning to  a  Farm  house  on  the  verge  of  the  prairie  about  two  miles  &  a 
half  from  Chiquest  [Chequest]  Creek.  The  route  next  morning  led 
among,  or  rather  over  the  river  hills,  which  were  broken,  wooded  & 
filled  with  the  delicate  fragrance  of  the  Ceanothus  [redroot],  which 
grew  here  in  great  quantities.  Crossing  Chiquest  about  four  miles 
from  the  mouth,  we  forded  the  Des  Moines  at  the  little  town,  Port- 
land, about  ten  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  creek.  The  road  now 
led  along  the  northern  bank,  which  was  fragrant  &  white  with  elder 
[Sambucus  canadensis  L.]  &  a  ride  of  about  twelve  miles  brought  us 
to  the  little  village  of  lowaville,  lying  on  the  line  which  separates  the 
Indian  lands  from  those  to  which  their  title  has  already  been  extin- 
guished. After  leaving  this  place  we  began  to  fall  in  with  parties  of 
Indians  on  horseback,  &  here  and  there  scattered  along  the  river 
bank,  under  tents  of  blankets  stretched  along  the  boughs,  were  In- 
dian families,  the  men  lying  about  smoking  &  the  women  engaged 
in  making  baskets  &  cooking — apparently  as  much  at  home  as  if 
they  had  spent  their  lives  on  the  spot.  Late  in  the  evening  we  arrived 
at  the  Post  of  Mr.  Phelps,  one  of  the  partners  of  the  American  Fur 
Company.^  Up  to  this  point  there  are  three  plants  which  more  es- 
pecially characterize  the  Prairies  &  which  were  all  in  their  places 
very  abundant.  The  Psoralia  Orobrychis,  which  prevailed  in  the  bot- 
tom near  the  mouth  of  the  Des  Moines,  gave  place  on  the  higher 
prairies  to  a  species  of  casalia,''  which  was  followed,  on  its  disappear- 
ance farther  up,  by  Parthenium  integrifolium.  The  Prairie  bottoms 
bordering  the  river  were  filled  with  Lyatris  pycnostachya  &  a  few 
miles  above  Portland,  on  the  north  Bank  of  the  river,  were  quanti- 
ties of  Liatris  resinosa  mingled  with  Rudbackia  digitata. 

On  the  Bluflfs  here  the  growth  was  principally  Quercus  alba,  inter- 
spersed with  tunctoria  &  macrocarpa  &  sometimes  carya  alba.  All 
these  now  and  then  appear  in  the  bottoms,  with  carya  oliveformis 
&  Tilia.  Ulmus  americana  &  fulvia,  Betula  rubra  with  ostrya  virgi- 
nica  &  Gymnocladus  canadensis  are  found  on  the  bottom  land  of  the 
creeks.  Populus  canadensis  &  Salix  form  groves  in  the  inundated 
river  bottoms,  &  the  Celtis  occidentalis  is  found  every  where. 

Having  been  furnished  with  a  guide  &  other  necessaries  by  the 
uniform  kindness  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  we  resumed  our 
journey  on  the  morning  of  the  first  of  July  &  late  in  the  evening 
reached  the  house  of  Mr.  Jameson,*'  another  of  the  Company's  Posts, 


ii6 


about  twenty  miles  higher  up.  Making  here  the  necessary  prepara- 
tions, I  commenced  on  the  morning  of  the  third,  a  survey  of  the 
river  valley. 

A  canoe  with  Instruments  &  Provisions  &  manned  by  five  men, 
proceeded  up  the  river  while  in  conformity  to  Instructions  which 
directed  my  attention  more  particularly  to  the  Topography  of  the 
Southern  side,  I  forded  the  river  &  proceeded  by  land.  The  char- 
acter of  the  river  rendered  the  progress  of  the  boat  necessarily 
slow  &  enabled  me  generally  to  join  them  at  night,  after  having 
made  during  the  day  a  satisfactory  examination  of  the  neighbouring 
country.  Proceeding  in  this  way  we  reached  the  Racoon  Fork  '  on 
the  evening  of  the  ninth  of  July.  I  had  found  the  whole  region 
densely  &  luxuriantly  timbered.  From  Mule  Creek  to  the  Eastward 
as  far  as  Chiquest  the  forests  extend  with  only  the  interruption  of  a 
narrow  prairie  between  the  latter  &  Soap  Creek.  The  most  open 
country  is  on  the  uplands  bordering  Cedar  River,  which  consists  of 
a  prairie  with  a  rich  soil,  covered  with  the  usual  innumerable  flowers 
&  copses  of  hazel  &  wild  plum.  This  prairie  extends  from  the  mouth 
of  Cedar  river  to  the  top  of  the  Missouri  dividing  ridge,  which  is 
here  at  its  nearest  approach  to  the  Des  Moines  river,  the  timber  of  the 
Chariton  or  Southern  Slope,  being  not  more  than  twelve  miles  dis- 
tant. From  this  point  to  the  Racoon  Fork  the  country  is  covered  with 
heavy  &  dense  bodies  of  timber,  with  a  luxuriant  soil  &  almost  im- 
penetrable undergrowth. 

Acer  saccharinum  of  an  extraordinary  size,  Juglans  cathartica,  & 
nigra,  with  Celtis  crassifolia,^  were  among  the  prevailing  growth, 
flourishing  as  well  on  the  broken  slopes  of  the  bluffs  as  on  the  up- 
lands. With  the  occasional  exception  of  a  small  prairie  shut  up  in 
the  forests,  the  only  open  land  is  between  the  main  tributaries  of  the 
Des  Moines,  towards  which  narrow  strips  of  prairie  run  down  from 
the  main  ridge.  The  heaviest  bodies  lie  on  the  three  rivers  where  it 
extends  out  to  the  top  of  the  main  ridge,  about  thirty  miles.  On  the 
northern  side  of  the  Des  Moines  the  ridge  appeared  to  be  continuously 
wooded,  but  with  a  breadth  of  only  three  to  five  miles  as  the  streams 
on  that  side  are  all  short  creeks.  A  very  correct  idea  of  the  relative 
quantity  &  disposition  of  Forest  land  &  Prairie  will  be  conveyed  by 
the  rough  sketch  annexed  [not  printed]. 

Having  determined  the  position  of  the  Racoon  Fork,  which  was 
one  of  the  principal  objects  of  my  visit  to  this  country,  I  proceeded 


117 


to  make  a  survey  of  the  Des  Moines  river  thence,  to  the  mouth.  In 
the  course  of  the  survey  which  occupied  me  until  the  twenty  second 
of  July,  I  was  enabled  to  fix  four  additional  astronomical  positions, 
which  I  should  have  preferred  had  time  permitted,  to  place  at  the 
mouth  of  the  principal  tributaries. 

From  the  Racoon  fork,  to  its  mouth,  the  Des  Moines  winds  a  cir- 
cuitous length  of  two  hundred  &  three  miles  through  the  level  &  rich 
alluvium  of  a  valley  a  hundred  &  forty  miles  long  &  varying  in 
breadth  from  one  to  three  &  sometimes  four  miles. 

Along  its  whole  course  are  strips  of  dense  wood,  alternate  with 
rich  prairies  entirely  beyond  the  reach  of  the  highest  waters,  which 
seldom  rise  more  than  eight  feet  above  the  low  stage.  Acer  eriocar- 
pum  ^  which  is  found  on  the  banks  of  such  rivers  as  have  a  gravelly 
bed,  is  seen  almost  constantly  along  the  shore,  next  to  the  salix  and 
populus  canadensis,  which  border  the  water's  edge. 

The  bed  of  the  river  is  sand  &  gravel  &  sometimes  rock,  of  which 
the  rapids  generally  consist.  All  of  these  which  presented  themselves, 
deserving  the  name,  will  be  found  noted  on  the  accompanying  map 
&  two  of  the  more  important  are  represented  on  a  large  scale.  After 
these,  the  most  considerable  rapid  above  the  Great  Bend  is  at  the 
head  of  the  island  above  Keokuck's  village.  The  bend  in  the  river 
here  is  very  sharp,  the  water  swift,  with  a  fall  of  about  one  foot,  &  a 
bottom  of  loose  rocks  with  a  depth  of  two  feet  at  the  lowest  stage. 
At  the  mouth  of  Tohlman's  creek^*^  is  a  rocky  rapid  used  as  a  ford, 
whose  depth  at  low  water  is  only  one  foot.  The  rapid  of  the  Great 
Bend,^^  ^  miles  below  Chiquest  creek  has  a  fall  of  twelve  inches  & 
so  far  as  I  could  ascertain  had  formerly  a  depth  of  eighteen  inches 
at  low  water.  A  Dam  has  been  built  at  this  place  &  the  river  passes 
through  an  opening  of  about  forty  feet.  Another  dam  has  been  built 
at  a  rapid  twelve  miles  lower  down,  where  the  river  is  six  hundred 
&  fifty  feet  wide.  The  fall,  which  I  had  no  means  to  ascertain  cor- 
rectly was  represented  to  me  as  slight,  with  a  depth  of  eighteen 
inches  at  lowest  water.  Four  &  a  half  miles  lower  down,  at  Farming- 
ton,^"  another  dam  &  mill  are  in  course  of  construction,  but  the  rapid 
here  is  inconsiderable  &  the  low  water  depth  greater  than  at  the 
other  two. 

I  regret  that  I  had  neither  the  time  nor  the  Instruments  requisite, 
to  determine  accurately,  the  velocity  &  fall  of  the  river,  which  I  esti- 
mated at  six  inches  per  mile  making  a  total  fall  of  about  one  hun- 
dred feet  from  the  Racoon  to  the  mouth.  It  is  three  hundred  &  fifty 

ii8 


feet  wide  between  the  perpendicular  banks  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ra- 
coon, from  which  it  receives  about  one  third  its  supply  of  water  & 
which  is  two  hundred  feet  wide  a  little  above  the  mouth.  Its  width 
increases  very  regularly  to  over  six  hundred  feet  at  Mr.  Phelp's  post, 
between  which,  &  seven  hundred  feet  it  varies  until  it  enters  the 
Mississippi  bottom  near  Francisville^^  where  it  becomes  somewhat 
narrower  &  deeper.  At  the  time  of  my  visit,  the  water  was  at  one  of 
its  lowest  stages,  &  at  the  shallowest  place  above  Cedar  river,  known 
as  such  to  the  Fur  Company  boatmen,  I  found  a  depth  of  twenty 
inches.  The  principal  difficulties  in  the  navigation,  more  especially 
above  the  Cedar  consist  in  the  sand-bars.  These,  which  are  very 
variable  in  position,  sometimes  extend  entirely  across  the  river  &  often 
terminate  abruptly,  changing  from  a  depth  of  a  few  inches,  to  eight  & 
twelve  feet.  From  my  own  observations,  joined  to  the  information 
obtained  from  Mr.  Phelps  who  has  resided  about  twenty  years  on 
this  river  &  who  has  kept  boats  upon  it  constantly  during  that  period,  I 
am  enabled  to  present  the  following,  relative  to  the  navigation,  as 
data  that  may  be  relied  upon. 

Steamboats  drawing  four  feet  water,  may  run  to  the  mouth  of 
Cedar  river  from  the  1st  of  April  to  the  middle  of  June,  &  keel  boats 
drawing  two  feet,  from  the  20th  of  March  to  the  1st  of  July,  &  those 
drawing  twenty  inches  again  from  the  middle  of  October  to  the  20th 
of  November.  Mr.  Phelps  ran  a  Mississippi  Steamer  to  his  post,  a  dis- 
tance of  eighty-seven  miles  from  the  mouth,  &  a  company  are  now 
engaged  in  building  one  to  navigate  the  river.  From  these  observa- 
tions it  will  be  seen  that  this  river  is  highly  susceptible  of  improve- 
ment, presenting  no  where  any  obstacles  that  would  not  yield  read- 
ily &  at  slight  expense.  The  removal  of  loose  stone  at  some  points,  & 
the  construction  of  artificial  banks  at  some  few  others,  to  destroy 
the  abrupt  bends,  would  be  all  that  is  required.  The  variable  nature 
of  the  bed  &  the  velocity  of  the  current  would  keep  the  channel 
constantly  clear. 

The  Botany  &  Geology  of  the  region  visited,  occupied  a  consider- 
able share  of  my  attention.  Should  it  be  required  by  the  Bureau  these 
may  form  the  subject  of  a  separate  report.  In  this  I  have  noticed  the 
prevailing  growth  &  characteristic  plants,  &  those  places  at  which 
coal  beds  presented  themselves  will  be  found  noted  on  the  map. 
Very  Respectfully  Sir  Your  Obdt.  Servt. 

J.  C.  Fremont. 
2d.  Lt.  Topi.  Engineers. 

119 


Table  of  Distances. 


Miles     Miles 


131 

9 

22| 

% 

28 

16f 

44| 

% 

54 

^ 

62i 

3| 

66 

11 

77 

From  Racoon  Fork  to  Upper  3  Rivers  [North  R.] 
Upper  3  Rivers  to  Middle  3  Rivers  [Middle  R.] 
Middle  3  Rivers  to  Lowest  3  Rivers  [South  R.] 
Lowest  3  Rivers  to  Red  Rock  Rapids 
Red  Rock  Rapids  to  White  Breast  River 

[White  Breast  Creek] 
White  Breast  River  to  Eagle  Nest  Rapids 
Eagle  Nest  Rapids  to  English  River^'* 
English  River  to  Cedar  River  [Cedar  Creek] 
Cedar  River  to  Vessar's  Trading  House, 

A.  F.  C.  17  94 

Vessar's  Trading  house,  A.F.C.  to  Phelp's 

Trading  House,  A.F.C.  22  116 

Phelps  T,  H.,  A.F.C.  to  Soap  Creek 
Soap  Creek  to  Shoal  Creek  [Lick  Creek] 
Shoal  Creek  to  Dam  at  Rapid  of  the 

Great  Bend 
Dam  at  Rapid  of  the  Great  Bend  to 

Second  Dam 
Second  Dam  to  Indian  Creek 
Indian  Creek  to  Sweet  Home  [  ?  ] 
Sweet  home  to  [St.]  Francisville  landing 
Francisville's  landing  to  Sugar  or 

Half  breed  Creek 
Half  Breed  Creek  to  the  Mouth 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (DNA-77,  LR).  Now  that  John  and  Jessie  are  married,  the 
phrase  "autograph  letter,  signed"  becomes  a  rather  vague  term.  Jessie  now 
begins  the  lifetime  task  of  writing  nearly  all  of  JCF's  letters;  she  does  not 
hesitate  to  sign  them  "J.  C.  FVemont"  and  let  the  recipient  assume  they  are 
in  her  husband's  hand.  She  will  even  certify  Army  vouchers,  at  a  later  time, 
and  sign  his  name  to  the  certification.  Our  solution  is  to  coin  a  symbol,  ALS- 
JBF,  meaning  a  letter  purportedly  written  and  signed  by  JCF  but  actually 
produced  in  its  entirety  by  Jessie  Benton  Fremont.  Where  variants  are  signifi- 
cant, they  will  be  noted. 

1.  JCF  is  referring  to  the  large  map  drawn  to  a  scale  of  1:200,000  and 
labeled,  "A  Survey  of  the  Des  Moines  River  from  the  Racoon  Fork  to  the 
Mouth  Made  in  July  1841  by  Lieut.  J.  C.  Fremont,  Corps  Topi.  Engineers." 
The  original  is  in  the  cartographic  records  of  DNA-77,  designated  as  map 
Q7-1.  It  is  not  reproduced  here. 

2.  A  village  no  longer  extant,  between  Alexandria,  Mo.,  and  Keokuk,  Iowa. 

120 


121 

128| 

151 

144i 

8 

152i 

12 

164i 

6 

170i 

7i 

1771 

% 

1871 

n 

19^ 

9 

203i 

3.  The  Fox  enters  the  Mississippi  from  the  west,  just  below  the  Des  Moines. 
The  Des  Moines  is  a  major  river,  draining  a  large  portion  of  the  state  of 
Iowa  and  entering  the  Mississippi  below  Keokuk,  Iowa.  All  of  JCF's  survey 
was  made  in  the  state  of  Iowa. 

4.  A  trading  house  near  the  Indian  village  headed  by  Keokuk,  titular 
leader  of  the  Sauk  and  Fox  tribes.  William  Phelps  was  in  charge  of  this  one, 
and  his  brother  Sumner  had  a  similar  establishment  in  Kansas.  For  Indian 
complaints  against  William,  and  against  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company,  see 
Annals  of  Iowa,  ser.  3,  15:256-57.  Listed  as  residing  in  Clark  County,  Mo., 
he  was  one  of  the  creditors  of  the  confederated  Sauk  and  Fox  tribes  at  a  treaty 
signed  with  the  Indians  11  Oct.  1842  (ibid.,  12:335-81). 

5.  Cacalia  tuberosa,  Indian  plantain.  }CF  adopted  tree  names  from  Michaux, 
North  American  Sylva.  Other  plants  mentioned  in  this  paragraph  and 
the  next  include:  Parthenium  integrijolium,  wild  quinine;  Liatris  pycno- 
stachya  and  Liatris  spicata  var.  resinosa,  blazing  star;  Rudbec\ia  sp.,  cone- 
flower;  Quercus  alba,  white  oak;  0.  velutina,  black  oak;  Q.  macrocarpa,  bur 
oak;  Carya  ovata,  shagbark  hickory,  or  C.  glabra,  pignut  hickory;  C.  illi- 
noensis,  pecan;  Tilia  americana,  basswood;  JJlmus  amencana,  American  elm; 
JJ .  rubra,  slippery  elm;  Betula  nigra,  river  birch;  Ostrya  virginiana,  ironwood; 
Gymnodadus  dioicus,  Kentucky  coffee  tree;  Populus  deltoides,  eastern  cotton- 
wood;  Salix,  willow;  Celtis  occidentalis,  hackberry. 

6.  We  have  not  identified  Mr.  Jameson,  but  he  must  surely  turn  up  some 
day  in  the  Chouteau  or  American  Fur  Company  papers  if  the  name  is  correct. 
JCF's  map  shows  "Vessar's"  trading  house  about  where  Jameson's  would  be, 
near  present  Ottumwa,  Iowa,  and  the  vouchers  show  a  payment  to  a  man 
named  Vessar  fVauchard?],  first  name  not  given. 

7.  The  Raccoon  River  joins  the  Des  Moines  from  the  west  within  the  city 
limits  of  Des  Moines,  Iowa. 

8.  For  sugar  maple,  Acer  saccharum,  JCF  followed  Michaux  in  "Acer 
saccharinum";  Juglans  cinerea,  butternut,  and  /.  nigra,  black  walnut;  Celtis 
occidentalis,  hackberry. 

9.  Michaux's  name  for  A.  saccharinum,  silver  maple. 

10.  Perhaps  Holcomb  Creek,  entering  the  Des  Moines  from  the  west  in 
Van  Buren  Countv,  Iowa. 

11.  This  bend  is  a  convolution  of  the  Des  Moines  in  Van  Buren  County. 
The  town  of  Keosauqua  is  located  about  midway  in  the  so-called  Great  Bend. 

12.  In  Van  Buren  County. 

13.  Now  called  St.  Francisville,  in  Clark  County,  Mo. 

14.  Not  identified.  The  present  English  River  is  farther  north,  the  largest 
affluent  of  the  Iowa. 


38.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topogrl.  Engineers 
Washington,  April  25.  1842 
Sir 

You  will  repair  as  soon  as  practicable  to  Fort  Leavenworth  in  order 
to  make  a  Survey  of  the  Platte  or  Nebraska  river,  up  to  the  head  of 

121 


the  Sweetwater.  Having  been  already  employed  on  such  duties,  and 
being  well  acquainted  with  the  kind  of  Survey  required,  it  is  not 
necessary  to  enumerate  the  objects  to  which  your  attention  will  be 
directed. 

After  having  completed  the  Survey  of  the  Platte,  should  the  sea- 
son be  favorable,  you  will  make  a  similar  survey  of  the  Kansas. 
These  duties  being  completed,  you  will  return  to  this  place  in  order 
to  prepare  the  drawings  &  report. 

You  will  submit  without  delay  the  requisite  estimate  for  these 
duties.  Very  Respectfully, 

J.  J.  Abert.  C.  C.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  5:325).  Apparently  it  was  now  clear  to  all  concerned 
that  the  ailing  Nicollet,  originally  scheduled  to  lead  this  survey,  no  longer 
had  the  strength  for  such  an  undertaking. 

Going  to  the  head  of  the  Sweetwater  would  lead  JCF  to  South  Pass  on  the 
Continental  Divide,  and  plainly  this  is  one  object  of  the  orders.  No  other  set 
of  orders  has  been  found  in  letterbooks  of  the  bureau.  But  in  later  years, 
Thomas  Hart  Benton  claimed  that  the  original  orders  had  been  too  restrictive 
and  that  JCF  himself  had  found  it  necessary  to  get  them  altered:  "Col.  Abert, 
the  chief  of  the  corps,  gave  him  an  order  to  go  to  the  frontier  beyond  the  Mis- 
sissippi. That  order  did  not  come  up  to  his  [JCF's]  views.  After  receiving  it 
he  carried  it  back,  and  got  it  altered,  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  inserted  as  an 
object  of  his  exploration,  and  the  South  Pass  in  those  mountains  named  as  a 
particular  point  to  be  examined,  and  its  position  fixed  by  him"  (benton  [1], 
2:478). 


39.  }.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 


Sir 


Bureau  of  Topi.  Engineers 
Washington,  April  25th  1842 


I  have  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  estimate  of  funds  for 
the  Survey  of  the  Platte  or  Nebraska  &  Kansas  rivers,  and  to  inform 
you  that  a  requisition  has  been  this  day  made  in  your  favor  for 
$4000,  to  be  remitted  to  you  at  St.  Louis  Missr.  Very  Respectfully, 

J.  J.  Abert  CL.  C.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  5:325-26).  JCF's  estimate,  bearing  the  same  date,  is 
registered  in  the  bureau  files  but  not  found.  The  register  entry  states  he  esti- 
mated the  cost  of  his  survey  of  the  Platte  and  Kansas  at  $4,000. 

122 


I 

I 


40.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 


Bureau  of  Topi.  Engineers 
Washington,  May  9th  1842 
Sir 

I  have  just  received  your  letter  of  the  5th  instt.;  there  are  two 
errors  in  it,  which  it  is  proper  to  bring  to  your  notice. 

1st.  You  have  no  authority  to  purchase  instruments:  There  is  an 
order  prohibiting  purchases  of  this  kind  without  a  requisition  for 
the  same  being  previously  submitted  &  approved. 

2nd.  You  have  no  authority  to  draw  for  money,  and  without 
special  authority  for  drawing;  the  practice  is  strictly  prohibited. 

Presuming  you  to  be  unacquainted  with  these  matters,  the  pur- 
chase of  the  chronometer  is  approved  and  the  draft  will  be  paid; 
but  hereafter  you  must  not  expect  similar  indulgence.  Very  re- 
spectflly, 

J.  J.  Abert.  C.  C.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  5:342).  Entered  in  the  bureau's  register  but  not  found, 
JCF's  letter  of  5  May  in  which  he  writes  that  he  has  purchased  a  box 
chronometer  and  drawn  on  Abert  for  $310.  Also  registered  is  the  transmittal 
of  the  draft  by  Arthur  Stewart,  on  7  May,  asking  that  the  amount  be  re- 
mitted. 


41.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 


Bureau  of  Topi.  Engineers 
Washington,  May  26th  1842 
Sir 

You  stand  charged  on  the  books  of  this  office  with  the  following 
instruments  recvd.  from  Cpt.  [W.  G.]  Williams,  and  no  return  has 
been  received  from  you  since: 

1  Sextant 

1  Theodolite 

2  Surveyor's  compasses 

123 


2  Boxes  drawing  instruments 

Your  immediate  attention  to  this  matter  is.  desirable.  Very  respect- 
fully, 

J.  J.  Abert,  CI.  C.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  5:375).  JCF  may  have  had  these  instruments  since 
his  work  with  WilHams  on  the  Cherokee  survey  in  1838.  In  military  parlance, 
a  "return"  is  a  periodic  inventory  of  equipment,  supplies,  or  personnel. 


42.  Contract  with  Honore  Ayot 

[26  May  1842] 

Before  the  [blanl{]  the  undersigned  was  present. 

Honore  Ayot  who  has  voluntarily  committed  himself  and  com- 
mits himself  by  these  presents  to  /.  C.  Fremont  at  this  time  and  ac- 
cepting for  his  first  assignment  to  leave  this  post  in  the  capacity  of 
voyageur-hunter  in  order  to  make  the  trip,  both  out  and  back,  and 
to  winter  during  the  space  of  some  months  more  or  less,  to  go  on 
the  Missouri  and  into  the  mountains,  free  upon  his  return  to  St. 
Louis,  subsisting  on  Indian  corn  or  other  sustenance  obtained  in  the 
wilderness. 

And  to  have  well  and  duly  taken  care  of,  on  the  road  and  once  at 
the  said  place,  all  merchandise,  furs,  victuals,  utensils,  and  all  things 
necessary  for  the  journeys,  trading,  and  wintering:  to  serve,  obey 
and  faithfully  execute  all  that  the  said  /.  C.  Fremont,  or  all  persons 
to  whom  the  said  Fremont  authorizes  by  these  presents  to  transfer 
this  commitment,  will  order  him  to  make  his  profit  legal  and  honest, 
avoid  doing  harm,  warn  him  of  all  things  touching  his  interest 
which  come  to  his  knowledge,  work  in  the  posts,  cities,  villages  and 
countrysides  not  considered  as  wilderness,  so  required  and  gener- 
ally all  that  a  good  [blanl{\  should,  and  is  obligated  to  do,  with- 
out providing  for  the  carrying  out  of  trade  for  his  own  person, 
neither  with  the  whites  nor  with  the  Indians,  nor  absenting  himself 
nor  leaving  the  said  service,  under  the  penalties  provided  by  the  laws 
and  the  loss  of  his  wages. 

This  commitment  thus  made,  for  and  depending  upon  the  sum 

124 


of  twenty  piastres,  money  of  the  United  States,  that  the  said  /.  C. 
Fremont  or  to  whomever  this  commitment  is  transferred  promises 
and  binds  himself  to  lease  and  pay  to  the  said  [blan]{\  one  month 
after  its  term  has  passed. 

Made  and  dispatched  at  St.  Louis  the  twenty-sixth  of  May  in  the 
year  one  thousand  eight  hundred  forty-two  and  signed,  with  the 
exception  of  said  [blanf{\  having  declared  not  to  know  how  to  sign, 
has  made  his  usual  mark  after  cognizance  taken 

In  the  presence  of  the  witness 

M.  S.  Cerre^  his 

HoNORE    X    Ayot 
mar^ 

DS  (CLSM).  The  original  is  in  French.  A  printed  form,  obviously  in  com- 
mon use  for  the  employment  of  voyageurs,  etc.  In  the  translation  above, 
penned-in  words  are  shown  in  italics.  For  a  facsimile  reproduction  of  the 
original,  see  wheat  [2].  No  biographical  information  is  available  for  Honore, 
but  probably  a  brother  or  a  cousin  was  Alexis  Ayot,  who  was  with  JCF  on  the 
expedition  of  1843-44  and  lost  a  leg  as  the  result  of  a  gunshot  wound  (Ru- 
dolph Bircher  to  JCF,  15  Sept.  1844,  Sen.  Doc.  329,  29th  Cong.,  1st  sess., 
Serial  476). 

1.  For  a  note  on  Michel  Sylvestre  Cerre,  see  under  Doc.  No.  27. 


43.   Benjamin  Clapp  to  Andrew  Drips 

Saint  Louis  30  May  1842 
Dear  Sir. 

This  will  be  presented  by  our  friend  Lieut.  J.  C.  Fremont  of  the 
U.  S.  Army,  now  on  his  route  to  the  interior  to  make  certain  Sur- 
veys, &ct.  by  direction  of  the  Government,  whom  we  beg  to  intro- 
duce to  your  acquaintance. 

As  this  Gentleman  will  need  some  person  acquainted  with  the 
country,  the  mode  of  voyaging  &c.  we  have  recommended  that  he 
avail  of  your  good  services  for  that  purpose,  &  trust  you  will  consent 
to  accompany  him — With  this  view,  &  to  that  effect,  we  wrote  you 
a  few  lines  the  other  day  by  the  men  who  went  up  with  Mr.  Fre- 
mont's Horses. 


125 


You  will  of  course  make  your  own  arrangements  as  regards  com- 
pensation &c. — Very  truly  yours  &c. 

P.  Chouteau  Junr.  &  Co. 
Ben  J.  Clapp 

ALS,  RC  (MoSHi — Drips  Papers).  The  letter  was  directed  to  Drips  at 
Westport;  the  earlier  one  mentioned  in  the  second  paragraph  is  not  on  file. 
Benjamin  Clapp  (1790-1849)  was  one  of  the  associates  of  P.  Chouteau,  Jr., 
and  Company,  having  come  to  St.  Louis  in  1838.  He  had  earlier  been  affiliated 
with  John  Jacob  Astor  and,  at  Mackinac,  with  Crooks,  Abbott  &  Company 
(St.  Louis  Weekly  Reveille,  2  July  1849).  Andrew  Drips  (1789-1860)  was 
born  in  Westmoreland  County,  Pa.,  and  after  service  in  the  War  of  1812  had 
migrated  to  St.  Louis.  After  connections  with  several  firms,  he  may  have 
worked  for  a  time  as  clerk  for  the  Missouri  Fur  Company.  By  1822,  he  was 
associated  with  fur  trader  William  H.  Vanderburgh.  His  career  in  the  Mis- 
souri country  was  a  long  one.  JCF  planned  to  hire  him  but,  while  en  route  up 
the  Missouri  and  before  seeing  Drips,  he  met  and  hired  Christopher  Carson 
instead.  Probably  Drips  would  have  hesitated  to  go  anyway,  as  he  had  an 
application  for  special  Indian  agent  for  the  Upper  Missouri  pending  with  the 
government.  He  learned  of  his  appointment  29  Aug.  1842,  while  JCF  was  in 
the  field  (anderson,  292-96).  See  also  sunder.  For  a  note  on  Carson,  see  p. 
15L 


44.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 


Bureau  of  Topi.  Engineers 
Washington,  July  8th  1842. 
Sir 

Your  letter  of  the  25th  May  submitting  an  estimate  for  four  thou- 
sand dollars  has  been  duly  received.  Such  estimates  are  inadmissible. 
It  is  necessary  to  state  in  some  detail  the  objects  of  the  estimate,  that 
the  Bureau  may  be  able  to  judge  of  the  propriety  of  the  expenditures 
contemplated,  and  whether  or  not  they  are  kept  strictly  within  the 
orders  which  you  have  received  and  the  duties  which  have  been  as- 
signed to  you,  as  it  is  only  to  that  extent  that  your  expenditures  can 
be  approved.  Very  respectfully, 

J.  J.  Abert.  CI.  C.T.E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  5:417).  In  a  letter  registered  by  the  bureau  but  no 
longer  present,  JCF  had  written  that  his  original  estimate  of  $4,000  for  the 
survey  would  not  be  sufficient,  and  asked  for  an  additional  $4,000. 

126 


45.  J.  J.  Abert  to  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company 

Bureau  of  Topi.  Engineers 
Washington,  July  28th  1842 
Gentn. 

I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  letter  of  the 
17th  instt.^ 

Lieut.  Fremont  has  not  furnished  this  office  with  the  least  inti- 
mation, direct  or  indirect,  of  any  advances  made  by  you.  I  have  no 
doubt  the  advances  was  made,  upon  your  statement,  and  am  fully 
sensible  of  your  frequent  kindnesses  in  this  respect.  But  Lieut.  Fre- 
mont should  not  have  called  upon  you,  as  there  was  a  sufficiency  of 
funds  to  meet  his  wants,  and  he  was  supplied  with  4000$  more  on 
the  25th  of  May,  but  it  was  not  sent,  for  reasons  which  were  com- 
municated to  him  by  letter  and  because  it  was  known  that  he  would 
be  absent  if  it  were  sent.^ 

The  only  duties  assigned  to  him  were  the  Surveys  of  the  Kansas 
and  the  Platte,  and  if  he  makes  these  cost  the  amount  of  his  requisi- 
tions, it  will  be  nearly  equal  to  much  larger  expeditions,  and  much 
more  extensive  Surveys  in  that  quarter. 

As  soon  as  Lt.  Fremont  returns  and  makes  a  proper  application 
for  funds  it  will  be  complied  with.  Believe  me  to  be 

J.  J.  Abert,  CI.  C.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,LS,  5:440-41). 

1.  This  letter,  calling  the  Topographical  Bureau's  attention  to  the  necessity 
of  providing  means  to  meet  the  expenses  of  JCF's  expedition  upon  his  re- 
turn to  St.  Louis,  was  entered  in  the  register  but  not  found. 

2.  Abert  seems  to  mean  that  the  money  was  allocated  on  the  basis  of  JCF's 
request  of  25  May,  but  held  up  until  the  need  for  it  could  be  clarified. 


127 


46.  J.  J.  Abert  to  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company 

Bureau  of  Topogrl.  Engineers 
Washington,  August  1st  1842 
Gentn. 

Please  to  inform  me  when  you  think  Lt.  Fremont  will  return  to 
St.  Louis,  and  what  amount  will  be  required  to  enable  him  to  close 
his  accounts.    Very  respectfully, 

J.  J.  Abert,  CI.  C.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  5:443).  In  a  letter  registered  but  not  found,  the  Chou- 
teau firm  replied  11  Aug.  that  JCF  was  expected  back  in  St.  Louis  by  1 
Oct.,  and  that  he  would  need  about  $4,000  to  close  his  accounts. 


47.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 


Sm 


Bureau  of  Topi.  Engineers 
Washington  Aug.  13th  1842 


I  have  to  inform  you  that  a  requisition  has  been  this  day  made  in 
your  favor  for  3000$  to  meet  your  payments  on  account  of  the  Sur- 
veys of  the  Platte  &  Kansas  river.    Very  respectfully, 

J.  J.  Abert.  CI.  C.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  5:455).  Abert  has  trimmed  by  $1,000  JCF's  estimate  of 
additional  funds  needed  to  complete  his  survey — an  estimate  confirmed  by 
P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company  which  had  provided  the  money. 


48.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  D.  C.  Novr.  16th  1842 


Sir 


I  transmit  to  you  by  to-day's  Cars  a  Collection  of  Plants  which  I 
have  made  during  the  present  year  in  the  course  of  a  Geographical 
Exploration  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  region,  over  which  the 

128 


collection  was  made,  extends  from  the  39th  to  the  43d.  degree  of 
North  Latitude  &  from  about  the  95th  to  the  112th  degree  West 
Longitude.  The  labels  which  are  affixed  to  the  plants  will  enable  us 
to  assign  them  their  exact  localities  on  a  Topographical  Map  of  the 
country  which  I  am  now  engaged  in  constructing,  based  upon  numer- 
ous Astronomical  positions,  &  the  Barometrical  observations  which 
I  succeeded  in  to  the  top  of  the  Mountains,  will  give  us  their  limits. 
In  their  present  state  I  am  afraid  you  will  find  it  almost  impossible 
to  fix  localities  from  the  labels  &  I  regret  that  I  have  no  means  at 
present  to  render  them  more  clear. 

I  think  that  you  will  already  have  heard  from  Professor  Jeager^ 
on  this  subject.  It  will  be  necessary  for  me  to  annex  a  catalogue  of 
the  plants  to  my  report,  which  will  be  required  for  the  use  of  the  Con- 
gress early  in  the  Session.  Mr.  Jeager  informed  me  that  it  would  suit 
your  present  engagements  to  give  the  necessary  time  to  this  examina- 
tion &  that  he  felt  assured  you  would  furnish  me  with  a  Catalogue  in 
a  few  weeks.  Should  these  plants  possess  any  interest  for  you,  I  trust 
that  they  will  be  an  apology  for  the  liberty  I  have  taken.  It  is  prob- 
able that  next  year  I  shall  be  sent  to  continue  these  Explorations  to 
the  Pacific,  &  I  shall  be  very  much  gratified  if  you  will  take  some 
interest  in  my  researches  &  enable  me  to  give  to  any  thing  I  may  find 
interesting  in  your  science,  the  authority  of  your  name. 

The  Box  will  be  left  to  your  order  at  Mr.  Ernest  Berthoud's,^  No. 
8  Pine  St.  When  your  leisure  will  permit,  I  shall  be  happy  to  hear 
from  you  &  in  the  mean  time,  am  Very  Respectfully, 

J.  C.  Fremont 
Lieut.  Topi.  Engineers 

ALS,  RC  (NNNBG).  Endorsed,  "Reed.  Nov.  18."  As  far  as  we  are  aware, 
this  is  the  earliest  surviving  letter  written  after  JCF  returned  from  his  expedi- 
tion. Now  that  he  is  back  in  Washington,  it  would  seem  logical  to  present  his 
report  of  the  expedition  at  this  point:  but  there  are  compelling  reasons  to 
present  the  documents  in  chronological  order — and  JCF  did  not  complete  his 
report  and  submit  it  to  Abert  until  1  March  1843.  It  is  presented  as  our  Doc. 
No.  61,  beginning  on  p.  168. 

John  Torrey  (1796-1873),  professor  of  chemistry  at  Columbia  and  Prince- 
ton and  "father"  of  the  New  York  Botanical  Garden  and  the  United  States 
National  Herbarium,  was  a  pioneer  taxonomic  botanist.  His  name  is  often 
linked  to  that  of  another  well-known  botanist,  Asa  Gray,  because  the  two 
worked  for  long  years  to  classify  and  describe  plant  specimens  brought  back 
from  the  West.  They  also  collaborated  on  a  monumental .  flora  of  North 
America.  See  torrey  &  gray,  and  for  biographies  of  Torrey,  see  rodgers  and 
c.  c.  robbins. 


129 


1.  Benedict  Jaeger  (1789-1869)  was  professor  of  German  and  Italian,  and 
lecturer  on  natural  history,  at  Princeton  (wertenbaker,  121,  127;  meisel, 
3:455,  456,  604). 

2.  Ernest  Berthoud  not  identified. 


49.  John  Torrey  to  Asa  Gray 

New  York,  Novr.  18th  1842 
My  dear  friend — 


A  few  days  ago  I  reed,  a  letter  from  Jaeger — formerly  of  Prince- 
ton, giving  me  an  account  of  some  plants  collected  towards  the 
Rocky  Mountains  by  a  Lt.  Fremont  in  the  U.  S.  service.  He  advised 
the  gentleman  to  send  the  whole  to  me — &  this  morning  a  letter 
arrived  from  the  gentleman  himself — informing  me  that  the  box  was 
dispatched  from  Washington  on  the  16th.  It  is  by  this  time  in  N. 
York.  The  specimens  were  collected,  he  says  "the  present  year,  in  the 
course  of  a  geographical  exploration  to  the  Rocky,  Mountains.  The 
region  over  which  the  collection  was  made,  extends  from  the  39th  to 
the  43d  degree  of  N.  Latitude  &  from  the  95th  to  the  112  deg.  W. 
Longitude.  The  labels  which  are  affixed  to  the  specimens  will  en- 
able us  to  assign  them  their  exact  localities  on  a  topographical 
map  of  the  country  which  I  am  now  engaged  in  constructing,  based 
upon  numerous  Astronomical  positions,  &  the  Barometrical  observa- 
tions which  I  succeeded  in  to  the  top  of  the  mountains,  will  give  us 
their  limits."  He  writes  something  like  a  foreigner,  but  he  signs  him- 
self J.  C.  Fremont,  Lt.  Topog.  Engineers.  He  expects,  next  year,  to 
continue  the  exploration  to  the  Pacific  &  offers  me  what  he  collects. 
So  here  is  a  chance  for  you  to  get  seeds  &c.  How  would  it  do  to  send 
a  collector  with  him.  Leavenworth^  wishes  to  go  somewhere — & 
this  place  might  suit  him — but  not  us — in  all  respects.  When  I  get 
the  box,  I  will  send  you  the  Composhae  &  such  duplicates  of  the 
other  (if  there  be  any)  as  you  may  desire  for  your  own  herbm. 

•  •  •  • 

Yours  affectionately, 

J.  ToRREY 

ALS,  RC  (MH-G).  Asa  Gray  (1810-88),  professor  of  natural  history  at 
Harvard  from  1842  until  his  death,  was  a  founder  of  the  National  Academy 

130 


of  Sciences  and  a  regent  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution.  In  addition  to  the 
Flora  he  produced  with  Torrey,  he  is  best  known  for  a  work  entitled  Manual 
of  the  Botany  of  the  Northern  United  States.  First  published  in  1848,  it  is 
still  in  use  today,  in  revised  form,  as  Gray's  Manual  of  Botany.  For  a  bi- 
ography, see  DUPREE. 

1.  Melines  C.  Leavenworth  (1796-1862),  a  botanist  and  Army  surgeon  who 
had  collected  in  the  South  during  his  military  career.  He  had  resigned  from 
the  Army  in  1840  and  was  therefore  available  "to  go  somewhere"  (heitman; 
RODGERs,  125,  155,  175-76,  210,  298). 


50.  Fremont  to  Joseph  N.  Nicollet 

Washington,  D.C.  Nov.  27th  1842 
My  Dear  Mr.  Nicollet 

I  have  deferred  writing  to  you  until  I  should  have  something  to 
say  decisive  of  the  fate  of  the  Map^ — immediately  after  the  receipt  of 
yours  of  the  10th  [not  foufid]  I  called  on  Col.  A.  &  in  an  incidental 
conversation  he  informed  that  he  intended  to  publish  the  Map  for 
the  present  Congress,  but  seemed  to  have  no  objection  whatever  to 
engraving  the  leading  Ridges  &  prominent  features  of  the  Country, 
&  said  he  would  send  for  Mr.  Stone  &  see  if  sufficient  time  remained 
for  the  Execution  of  that  part  of  the  work.  After  the  lapse  of  some 
days  I  received  a  note  from  him,  directing  me  to  call  on  Mr.  Stone. 
The  latter  informed  me  that  it  is  entirely  impossible  to  engrave  any 
part  of  the  Topography,  &  that  it  had  been  determined  to  publish 
what  had  been  engraved,  on  the  common  thin  paper,  for  the  com- 
meficement  of  this  Session ;  &  that  an  estimate  for  the  Engraving  of 
the  Topographical  part  would  be  submitted  &  if  the  money  could  be 
obtained,  that  work  would  be  executed  in  the  coming  year.  In  an- 
swer to  my  enquiry,  why  the  work  had  not  been  executed  during 
the  past  summer,  he  told  me  that  you  would  not  permit  the  Mississippi 
Sources  nor  the  Southern  part  of  the  Map  to  be  engraved,  &  that  it 
was  impossible  for  him  to  engrave  one  portion  of  the  Map  without 
the  other,  so  that  you  had  prevented  the  engraving  of  the  Topog- 
raphy— This  is  in  substance  what  passed  &  will  put  you  clearly  in 
possession  of  the  position  of  affairs.  He  gave  me  one  of  the  sheets  for 
correction,  which  I  made  &  returned  to  him  the  next  day.  I  also  cor- 
rected the  Missouri  at  Leavenworth,  &  think  that  I  could  improve 
that  river  if  I  had  here  the  large  Book  which  contains  the  survey;  I 

131 


could  then  compare  places  with  my  late  survey,  which  on  the  scale 
of  the  map  is  not  possible,  or  rather  is  very  difficult.^  Write  to  me  on 
these  subjects  &  think  if  I  can  be  of  any  service  to  the  Map — Now  of 
other  afTairs,  I  have  the  pleasure  to  tell  you  that  I  have  a  fine  little 
daughter,^  eleven  days  old  to-day.  Jessie  is  sitting  up  &  has  got 
through  with  her  sickness  very  well  indeed.  The  family  send  all 
their  regards  to  you,  Col.  Benton  proposes  to  go  to  Baltimore,  prob- 
ably in  the  morning  &  told  me  that  he  will  call  to  see  you.  Can  you 
have  an  occultation  calculated  for  me  so  that  I  can  get  the  result  next 
week  ?  If  so  I  will  send  the  data  immediately  &  be  very  much  obliged 
to  you.  Give  our  regards  to  Dr.  Ducaters"*  family  &  write  me  as  soon 
as  you  can — Most  truly  yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont 

ALS,  RC  (PHi — Gratz  Collection).  On  the  back  of  the  letter  in  Benton's 
hand:  "With  the  best  wishes  of  Mr.  Benton,  and  the  hope  that  Mr.  Nicollet 
will  soon  be  able  to  see  his  friends  in  Washington."  Addressed  to  the  care  of 
Dr.  J.  T.  Ducatel  on  Franklin  Street,  Baltimore. 

1.  Two  versions  of  the  Nicollet  map  were  produced:  one  dated  1842,  printed 
at  a  scale  of  1:600,000  and  distributed  to  the  Senate  in  an  edition  of  300 
copies;  a  second  one,  completely  recalculated  and  re-engraved,  done  at  a 
scale  of  1:1,200,000  to  accompany  the  1843  Report.  The  1842  map  is  quite 
scarce;  we  note  one  copy  in  DNA  and  two  in  DLC  and  have  made  no  effort 
to  locate  others.  The  1843  map  is  reproduced  in  the  Map  Portfolio.  It  is  also 
available  with  Nicollet's  Report  and  in  a  version  reprinted  from  the  original 
plates  by  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society  in  1965. 

For  manuscript  maps  in  the  cartographic  records  of  DNA-77  which  pro- 
vided copy  for  the  engravers,  see: 

U.S.  41.  "Sources  of  the  Mississippi  and  North  Red  River,"  based  on 
Nicollet's  surveys  of  1836  and  1837.  One  sheet. 

U.S.  131.  Two  maps  bearing  the  same  file  number,  each  in  four  sheets,  one 
map  measuring  75  X  61  inches  and  the  other  78  X  62^  inches,  each  entided 
"Map  of  the  Hydrographical  Basin  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  River." 

2.  The  "large  Book"  is  the  chart  of  the  Missouri.  JCF's  "late  survey"  is  his 
1842  expedition  to  South  Pass. 

3.  Elizabeth  Benton  Fremont,  born  13  Nov.  1842  in  Washington. 

4.  Julius  Timoleon  Ducatel  (1796-1849),  a  friend  of  Nicollet's  who  was 
later  to  become  state  geologist  of  Maryland.  With  J.  H.  Alexander  he  made  a 
new  map  and  geological  survey  of  the  state  (meisel,  2:553-57,  619). 


132 


51.  Asa  Gray  to  John  Torrey 

[5  Dec.  1842] 

•  •  •  • 

Saturday  afternoon 

The  parcel  of  Compositae  &c.  of  the  Far  West  has  only  just  come 
in.  I  have  looked  over  the  Compos,  with  some  excitement.  Some  few 
new,  and  the  old  help  out  Nuttall's^  scraps  &c.  very  well.  Tetra- 
dymia's  [horsebrush]  this  side  of  the  Rocky  Mts.!!  Some  new  Sen- 
ecio's  [ragworts],  especially  from  the  Mountain  near  the  snow  line. 
How  I  would  like  to  botanize  up  there!  I  will  give  you  an  account  of 
these  Compos,  soon,  and  send  back  the  spec,  as  you  desire,  selecting 
one  for  myself  where  it  will  bear  it.  Pray  remember  me  in  this 
matter  as  regards  the  other  families  of  this  collection. 


'2 


Monday  morning 

I  meant  to  have  sent  this  today  in  a  parcel  containing  Carey's 
Compos.  (Senecio's  &  Thistles)  from  Nuttall:  but  I  will  retain  them 
longer,  as  I  shall  want  to  compare  some  of  Nuttall's  bits  of  Arte- 
misia's [wormwood]  &c. — with  those  of  this  new  collection.  I  hope 
to  send  it  next  week.  Is  the  Lieutenant's  name  Fremont? 

I  have  just  looked  over  the  parcel  of  Lupinus,  Rosa  &  Oenothera.'^ 
I  know  nearly  all,  except  the  Lupines.  If  I  do  not  send  sooner,  I  shall 
hope  to  bring  them  all  back  to  you  sometime  next  month.  .  .  . 

•  •  •  • 

I  wish  we  had  a  collector  to  go  with  Fremont.  It  is  a  great  chance. 
If  none  are  to  be  had,  Lieut.  F.  must  be  indoctrinated ,  &  taught  to 
collect  both  dried  spec.  &  seeds.  Tell  him  he  shall  be  immortalized 
by  having  the  999th  Senecio  called  S.  Fremonti,  that's  pos.,  for  he  has 
at  least  two  new  ones.  .  .  .  This  letter  you  see  has  no  beginning,  as 
I  have  scribbled  down  memoranda  for  a  day  or  two  past,  as  they  oc- 
curred to  me.  ...  I  am  deep  among  thistles,  which  are  thorny.  .  .  . 

With  kind  remembrances  to  all  at  Princeton — when  you  see  them 
— I  remain.  Yours  affectionately, 

A.  Gray 
Cambridge,  5th  Dec.  1842 

ALS,  RC  (NNNBG).  Addressed,  "Prof.  John  Torrey,  Medical  College,  67 
Crosby  St.,  New  York." 


1.  Thomas  Nuttall  (1786-1859),  naturalist,  botanist,  and  ornithologist,  had 
explored  along  the  Missouri,  Arkansas,  and  Red  rivers,  and  with  the  Wyeth 
expedition  of  1834-35  had  gone  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  He  became 
professor  of  botany  at  Harvard  and  curator  of  its  botanical  garden.  Much  of 
JCF's  botanizing  on  his  1842  expedition  was  in  an  area  already  covered  by 
Nuttall,  as  the  catalogue  of  plants  (p.  286)  will  indicate. 

2.  John  Carey,  a  good  friend  of  Asa  Gray's,  had  come  from  England  in 
1830  to  dabble  in  business  and  botany.  He  had  botanized  with  Gray  in 
Virginia  and  North  Carolina  in  1841,  and  worked  on  the  sedges  and  willows 
for  Gray's  manual.  After  a  fire  that  destroyed  his  herbarium  and  took  the  life 
of  his  son,  he  returned  to  England  (dupree,  54,  97,  172,  201,  327). 

3.  Lupine  or  blue  bonnet,  wild  rose,  and  evening  primrose  (Oenothera). 


52.  Fremont  to  J.  C.  Edwards 


Washington  City,  December  10,  1842 
Sir: 

It  will  be  a  reply  to  a  greater  part  of  the  questions  contained  in 
your  favor  of  the  7th,  to  say  that  the  survey  which  I  made  of  the  Des 
Moines  in  July,  1841,  was  simply  geographical,  and  principally  to 
determine  some  astronomical  positions,  particularly  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Rackoon  Fork.  Any  examination,  therefore,  of  the  rapids,  or 
other  obstructions  to  the  navigation,  would  be  merely  incidental; 
and  to  those  within  the  territorial  line  more  especially  the  rapids  of 
the  Great  Bend,  which  had  been  made  the  subject  of  a  particular 
survey,  I  gave  very  little  attention.  There  are  some  10  or  12  rapids  in 
the  space  between  the  Rackoon  Fork  and  the  Great  Bend,  a  distance 
of  145  miles.  Of  the  two  largest,  the  Eagle  Nest  and  Red  Rock 
rapids,  you  will  find  drawings  on  an  enlarged  scale  on  the  map 
which  accompanies  my  report;  the  former  is  108  and  the  latter  90 
miles  above  the  rapids  of  the  Great  Bend.  At  this  last  place,  I  esti- 
mated the  perpendicular  fall  to  be  12  inches;  and  it  is  very  probable 
not  less  than  two  feet  in  80  or  100  yards.  The  rapid  at  Lexington  is 
two  miles  and  1,000  yards  south  of  that  at  the  Great  Bend,  and  by  the 
river  11|  miles  below.  Heavy  and  continuous  rains  had  occasioned  a 
rise  of  some  feet  when  I  made  the  survey  of  the  lower  part  of  the 
river,  and  the  rapid  at  Farmington,  which  is  15^  miles  below  that  at 
the  Great  Bend,  and  5\  miles  south  of  it,  was  then  scarcely  a  ripple, 
and  below  this  point  I  remarked  no  rapids  worthy  the  name. 

134 


In  the  course  of  surveys  on  the  western  tributaries  of  the  upper 
Mississippi,  I  found,  among  their  numerous  shoals,  and  in  the  lower 
part  of  their  course,  one  to  which  was  usually  given  the  name  of  falls 
or  rapids,  by  way  of  distinction.  The  "St.  Peter's  rapids,"  which  form 
a  serious  obstruction  to  the  navigation  of  that  river,  occur  about  60 
miles  from  the  mouth.  Those  of  the  Embarras  river,  of  which  there 
are  two,  about  one  mile  apart,  with  a  perpendicular  fall  of  three  feet 
each,  are  within  the  distance  above  mentioned  from  the  mouth  of 
the  river.  To  this  line  of  falls,  extending  across  these  rivers  from 
north  to  south,  and  occasioned  perhaps  by  a  change  in  the  formation, 
I  supposed  that  the  rapids  at  the  Great  Bend  might  belong. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  C.  Fremont 
Lieut.  Top.  Efigineers 

Printed,  "Northern  Boundary  of  Missouri,"  H.R.  Doc.  38,  at  pp.  19-20,  27th 
Cong.,  3rd  sess.,  Serial  420.  Democratic  Representative  John  Cummins  Ed- 
wards (1804-88)  was  from  Missouri  and  served  as  governor  in  1844  (biog.  dir. 

CONG.). 

Also  printed  in  H.R.  Doc.  38  are  JCF's  report  of  his  survey;  the  report  of 
W.  Bowling  Guion  of  9  Oct.  1841  which  came  as  a  result  of  his  instructions 
of  1  Dec.  1840  to  make  a  survey  of  the  Des  Moines  and  Iowa  rivers;  and  the 
report  of  Albert  M.  Lea,  19  Jan.  1839,  to  the  commissioner  of  the  General 
Land  Office.  The  object  of  all  this  interest  was  the  northern  boundary  of  Mis- 
souri, which  was  in  dispute  because  of  the  error  of  John  C.  Sullivan,  a  govern- 
ment surveyor,  in  marking  in  1816  the  boundaries  designated  in  the  Osage 
Indian  treaty  of  1808.  A  confusion  of  language  and  perhaps  faulty  knowledge 
of  geography  also  was  involved,  as  Congress  had  authorized  the  northern 
boundary  to  be  the  Sullivan  line,  describing  it  as  passing  through  "the  rapids 
of  the  river  Des  Moines."  Missourians  and  lowans  disputed  for  twelve  years 
the  meaning  of  the  term:  rapids  in  the  Des  Moines,  or  the  better-known 
rapids  in  the  Mississippi  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Des  Moines?  In  1849, 
the  Supreme  Court  finally  decreed  that  the  old  Sullivan  line  should  stand. 

There  is  no  evidence  in  our  records  to  show  that  JCF's  survey  was  instigated 
as  a  result  of  this  dispute,  but  we  suspect  that  it  was — and  that  Senator 
Benton  of  Missouri  was  somehow  involved  in  having  the  survey  made — just 
as  he  surely  must,  of  necessity,  have  been  involved  in  the  boundary  dispute. 


135 


53.  Financial  Records,  1842 

[31  Dec.  1842] 
First  and  Second  Quarters,  1842 

Voucher  No.  1,  Washington,  11  Feb.  1842 
U.S.  to  Charles  Preuss 

For  services  rendered  to  the  U.S.  as  assistant  draughtsman  in 
the  Topographical  Bureau  @  2.60  per  diem,  31  days  from 
10  Jan.  to  10  Feb.  1842  80.60 

Charles  Preuss  (1803-54),  a  German  cartographer,  had  worked  for  Fer- 
dinand Hassler  before  joining  Nicollet  and  JCF  early  in  1842.  His  association 
with  JCF  was  to  extend  over  many  years,  and  he  was  to  prove  himself  a 
highly  skilled  and  conscientious  mapmaker.  He  was  not  a  happy  or  well- 
adjusted  man — he  hanged  himself  in  1854 — but  the  extent  of  his  frequent 
miseries  was  not  revealed  until  the  translation  and  publication  of  his  western 
diaries  in  1958  (preuss).  There  he  comes  through  as  a  dour  traveler,  unhappy 
with  JCF,  unhappy  with  hardship  and  inclement  weather.  Assuming  that  his 
diaries  are  in  part  catharsis,  we  can  place  some  credence  in  JCF's  own  recol- 
lections of  the  man  (memoirs,  70  and  passim)  as  one  who  had  served  him 
willingly  and  well.  Quotations  from  the  Preuss  diaries  will  appear  as  notes  in 
this  and  subsequent  volumes.  Erwin  G.  and  Elisabeth  K.  Gudde  present  the 
best  available  biographical  sketch  in  their  preface  to  his  diaries. 

Voucher  No.  2,  Washington,  14  Feb.  1842 
U.S.  to  E.  &  G.  W.  Blunt 

1  sextant  120.00 

1  circle  150.00 

box,  freight,  etc.  2.00 

272.00 

Voucher  No.  3,  Baltimore,  1  March  1842 
U.S.  to  James  Green 

18  Aug.  1841 

1  mountain  barometer  repaired  6.00 

1  ditto  3.00 

1  ditto  3.50 

1  thermometer  1.50 

1  ditto  .50 

136 


2  leather  cases  for  barometer  5.00 

20  Aug. 

repairing  sextant,  3  shades,  eyepiece,  &c.  4.00 

Case  for  dipping  needle  3.00 

23  Aug.  1841 

Strap  for  leather  case  .50 

25  Aug. 

1  hydrometer,  Beaume  1.00 

1  March  1842 

repairing  sextant,  regraduating,  &c.  18.00 

repairing  horizon  box  ,50 

packing  box  .37^ 


2 


46.871 


Voucher  No.  4,  Washington,  25  March  1842 
U.S.  to  John  A.  Blake 

Repairing  and  binding  2  maps  4.25 

John  A.  Blake  was  often  engaged  by  the  government  to  bind  books  and 
official  documents.  He  may  be  the  same  John  A.  Blake  who,  in  the  Daily  Na- 
tional Intelligencer  for  24  Dec.  1839,  advertised  himself  as  an  auctioneer  and 
commission  merchant,  with  a  variety  of  goods  for  sale  at  Centre  Market 
Place. 


Voucher  No.  5,  Washington,  25  March  1842 
U.S.  to  William  King,  Jr. 

Taking  down  and  removing  a  large  drawing  table  from  the 
office  of  the  Coast  Survey,  on  20  March  3.50 


Voucher  No.  6,  Washington,  28  March  1842 
V.S.  to  E.  &  G.  W.  Blunt 

1  Troughton  sextant  and  case  88.00 


Voucher  No.  7 ,  Washington,  1  April  1842 
U.S.  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 

For  services  rendered  to  the  U.S.  as  superintendent  of  the 
Surveys  West  of  the  Mississippi  for  90  days,  1  Jan.  to  31 
March  1842,  @  8.00  per  diem  720.00 

137 


Voucher  No.  8,  Washington,  1  April  1842 
U.S.  to  Charles  Preuss 

For  services  rendered  the  U.S.  as  assistant  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 
@  2.60  per  diem,  49  days  from  11  Feb.  to  31  March  1842       127.40 

Endorsed  by  JCF:  "The  Hon.  J.  C.  Spencer,  Sec.  at  War,  authorized  J.  N. 
Nicollet  to  employ  the  above  named  Charles  Preuss  as  assistant  in  his  astro- 
nomical &  other  calculations  &  drawings." 

Voucher  No.  9,  Philadelphia,  21  April  1842 
U.S.  to  Wm.  H.  C.  Riggs 

[  ]  March 

Refitting  the  hook  inside  the  main  spring,  resetting  by  brazing 
anew  the  cock  diamond,  polishing  pivots,  poising  the  bal- 
ance, cleaning,  reducing,  and  ascertaining  rate  of  Chro- 
nometer by  Brockbank  No.  739  15.00 

William  H.  C.  Riggs,  watchmaker  and  chronometer  maker,  was  located  in 
1847  at  126  S.  Front  Street  and  13  Dock  Street,  Philadelphia. 

Voucher  No.  10,  Washington,  26  April  1842 
U.S.  to  Thomas  R.  Gedney 

1  Massey's  patent  log  40.00 

Thomas  R.  Gedney  (d.  1857),  a  naval  commander,  lived  on  F  Street  N. 
near  Nineteenth  W.,  Washington.  He  had  been  an  assistant  in  the  Coast 
Survey  and  by  direction  of  Ferdinand  R.  Hassler  had  surveyed  New  York 
harbor  and  discovered  a  new  channel. 

Voucher  No.  11,  Washington,  27  April  1842 
U.S.  to  F.  W.  Naylor 

1  tin  case  for  maps  2.62 

In  1843,  Francis  Naylor,  a  turner,  was  located  at  4i  Street  W.  near  C  Street 
S.,  Washington. 

Voucher  No.  12,  Washington,  28  April  1842 
U.S.  to  William  Wiirdemann 

repairing  and  cleaning  a  sextant  for  J.  N.  Nicollet  5.50 

making  1|  doz.  silver  and  German  silver  draughting  pens  2.70 

additions  to  a  camera  lucida  2.50 

138 


German  silver  scale  of  /4o  meters  divided  for  Hoo,ooo  6.00 

20  spiral  springs  for  chronometer  box  1.50 

1820 

In  1846,  William  Wiirdemann  was  a  mathematical  instrument  maker  on  the 
west  side  of  Delaware  Avenue,  between  B  and  C,  in  Washington.  He  had 
done  much  work  for  Hassler  in  the  Coast  Survey. 


Voucher  No.  13,  Washington,  28  April  1842 
U.S.  to  William  Fischer 

7  ream  Southworth's  linen  quarto,  ruled  2.75 

4  lead  pencils  .50 

India  rubber  .06 

inkstand  75^,  ink  190  .94 

sealing  wax  25^,  1  stick  India  ink  370  .62 

2  cards  Hayden's  pens  .75 

2  cards  mapping  pens  2.00 

7^62 


Voucher  No.  14,  Washington,  29  April  1842 
U.S.  to  John  A.  Blake 

lining  with  cotton  10  sheets  largest  size  drawing  paper  12.50 

binding  1  small  quarto  volume  in  half  morocco  1.00 

l350 


Voucher  No.  IS,  Washington,  29  April  1842 
U.S.  to  Pol /{in  horn  &  Campbell 

2  cases  for  instruments  7.00 

1  case  for  spyglass  1.00 

8^00 


Voucher  No.  16,  New  York,,  30  April  1842 
U.S.  to  E.  &  G.  W.  Blunt 

1  English  nautical  almanac  2.50 

1  new  [.  .  .],  new  balance  staff  and  cleaning  chronometer  11.00 

1350 


139 


Voucher  No.  17,  Washington,  30  April  1842 
U.S.  to  Charles  Preuss 

For  services  rendered  to  the  U.S.  as  assistant  to  J.  N.  Nicollet, 
@  2.75  per  diem  for  30  days,  1  April  to  30  April  1842  82.50 

Voucher  No.  18,  Washington,  30  April  1842 
U.S.  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 

For  services  rendered  the  U.S.  as  superintendent  of  the  Sur- 
veys West  of  the  Mississippi  for  30  days,  1  April  to  30 
April  240.00 

Voucher  No.  19,  Washington,  1  May  1842 
U.S.  to  William  King,  Jr. 

13  Oct.  1841 

mirror  for  camera  obscura  .75 

portable  box  to  form  the  above  8.00 
30  April  1842 

packing  box  for  instruments  11.00 

packing  6  instrument  boxes  3.00 

1  pine  table  arranged  to  pack  in  box,  for  camp  use  9.00 

packing  the  same  in  a  box  1.50 

moving  table  to  Coast  Survey  office  2.00 

3525 

Voucher  No.  20,  New  York,  4  May  1842 
U.S.  to  Arthur  Stewart 

1  first  class  2-day  London  chronometer  by  French,  No.  7810      300.00 
1  land-carriage  outside  box,  with  extra  pillows,  cushion,  &c.        10.00 

310.00 

In    1846,    Arthur    Stewart's   firm,    listed    as    "chronometers,    merchant    ex- 
change," was  on  William  at  the  corner  of  Wall  Street,  New  York. 

Voucher  No.  21,  New  Yor\,  5  May  1842 
U.S.  to  American  Fur  Company 

1  three-breadths  brown  Russia  sheeting  tent  20.00 

Rect.  by  Ramsay  Crooks  as  president  of  the  company. 

140 


Voucher  No.  22,  New  Yor\,  5  May  1842 
US.  to  E.  &  G.  W.  Blunt 

3  May 

1  mountain  barometer  in  leather  case  35.00 

4  best  thermometers  in  mahogany  case,  graduated  to  order  9.00 

2  lbs.  best  refined  quicksilver  2.00,  box  and  bottle  25(z!  4.25 

4825 


Voucher  No.  23,  New  Yor\,  4  May  1842 
U.S.  to  A.  Bininger  &  Co. 

6  lbs.  Dresden  chocolate  4.50 


Voucher  No.  24,  New  YorI{,  5  May  1842 
U.S.  to  Horace  H.  Day 

1  air  army  boat  or  floater  150.00 

2  pieces  India  rubber  cloth  39.98 
2  pots  rubber  composition  1.00 

190.98 

Horace  H.  Day  had  opened  a  small  factory  at  New  Brunswick,  N.J.,  to 
manufacture  rubber  fabrics  in  1839.  His  interests  soon  conflicted  with  those  of 
Charles  Goodyear,  who  patented  a  vulcanization  process  in  1844.  After  a 
series  of  law  suits,  Day  was  permanently  enjoined  from  further  rubber  man- 
ufacture in  1852.  For  JCF's  unfortunate  experiences  with  the  rubber  boat,  see 
below,  pp.  275-79. 


Voucher  No.  25,  New  York,,  5  May  1842 
U.S.  to  Betijamin  Pike  &  Sons 

1  mountain  barometer  25.00 

1  leather  case  for  same  2.00 

1  boat  compass  3.00 

3000 

Benjamin  Pike  &  Sons  were  opticians  at  166  Broadway,  New  York. 


141 


Voucher  No.  26,  New  York,,  6  May  1842 
U.S.  to  Moore,  Baker  &  Co. 

1  pair  fine  pistols  in  case  50.00 

powder,  caps,  &c.  1.00 

5L00 

Moore,  Baker  &  Co.  had  a  gun  and  saddlery  shop  at  204  Broadway,  New 
York. 

Voucher  No.  27,  Chicago,  15  May  1842 
U.S.  to  Frink  Walker  &  Co. 

To  furnishing  an  exclusive  extra  post  coach  for  2  persons  and 

14  cases  containing  instruments  from  Chicago  to  Peru  50.00 

Frink,  Walker,  &  Co.  was  a  stage  proprietor  at  the  corner  of  Lake  and 
Dearborn  Streets,  Chicago. 

Voucher  No.  28,  St.  Louis,  25  May  1842 
U.S.  to  E.  M.  Buckingham 

For  making  1  spirit  gas  field  lamp  3.00 

E.  M.  Buckingham  was  a  dealer  in  stoves  and  hollow- ware  at  130  N.  First 
Street,  St.  Louis. 

Voucher  No.  29,  St.  Louis,  26  May  1842 
U.S.  to  Dinnies  &  Radford 

6  half-bound  blank  books  10.75 

1  doz.  pencils,  lead  1-25 

1  penknife  -75 

1  card  steel  pens  1-00 

1  bottle  black  ink  .62 

1  piece  Indian  rubber  ^l^ 

15.00 

Voucher  No.  30,  St.  Louis,  26  May  1842 
U.S.  to  Hendrick  Tisius 

2  pair  ice  shoes  10.00 
2  pair  iron  plates  and  heels  with  steel  nails  4.00 


2  steel  pins  for  sticks 


50 


14.50 

Hendrick  Tisius  not  further  identified.  When  the  purchase  of  these  items 

142 


was  questioned  by  the  government  auditors,  JCF  wrote  in  an  accompanying 
explanation:  "The  articles  in  this  account  were  for  use  among  the  ice-fields 
in  the  Survey  of  the  Wind  River  Mts." 

Voucher  No.  31,  St.  Louts,  27  May  1842 
U.S.  to  Carstens  &  Schuetze 

1  lb.  Jamaica  arrowroot  .50 

1  lb.  [.  .  .]  .25 

3  oz.  purg[ative]  pills  4.50 

4  oz.  laudanum  .75 
3% 6  oz.  pure  quicksilver  8.00 
1  oz.  iodine  .75 

1  oz.  nitric  acid  .38 

2  lbs.  sulphur  .50 
24  doses  emetic  3.00 
24  doses  Dover's  pow^der  3.00 

2  lancets  2.00 

2l63 

Voucher  No.  32,  St.  Louis,  29  May  1842 
U.S.  to  Jacob  Blatttier 

1  best  quality  French  pocket  compass  12.00 

1  German  pocket  compass  12.00 

1  common  pocket  compass  4.00 

1  best  quality  thermometer  9.00 

1  magnifying  glass  .75 

1  pair  forceps  .75 

1  magnet  1.50 

40.00 

Voucher  No.  33,  Baltimore,  1  June  1842 
U.S.  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 

For  services  to  the  U.S.  as  superintendent  of  the  North  West- 
ern Surveys  for  31  days  @  8.00  per  diem  from  1  May  to  31 
May  1842  248.00 

Voucher  No.  34,  Westport,  Mo.,  4  June  1842 
U.S.  to  the  Steamboat  Rowena 

3  June 

passage  for  17  men  from  St.  Louis  to  Westport  114.75 

143 


freight  on  468  lbs.  17.50 

freight  on  3  kegs  powder  1.50 

freight  on  8  French  carts  [  ?]  24.00 

157.75 


Voucher  No.  35,  St.  Louis,  10  June  1842 
U.S.  to  C.  &  F.  Chouteau 

Bought  of  Boone  &  Hamilton: 

1  double-barreled  shotgun  35.00 

2  rifles  30.00 
1  coil  rope  10.50 
6  halters  9.00 
12  tug  ropes  3.00 
8  dressed  deerskins  16.00 
12  boxes  percussion  caps  3.00 
6  twilled  bags  6.00 
repairing  guns  4.21 

158.71 

This  document  is  a  subvoucher  rendered  at  Westport  on  15  June  1842.  The 
main  voucher  is  nearly  illegible,  but  consists  of  sundries  such  as  those  shown 
in  voucher  no.  31  for  the  second  and  third  quarters,  1842.  One  entry  reads: 
"amount  assumed  to  Boone  &  Hamilton,  158.71."  The  total  is  $503.00. 

Cyprian  and  Francis  Chouteau,  sons  of  Pierre  Chouteau,  Sr.,  by  Osage 
mothers,  together  and  separately  maintained  a  number  of  posts  on  the  Kansas 
River  for  trade  with  the  Indians.  One  joint  enterprise  was  "Four  Houses," 
established  between  1813  and  1821  at  the  site  of  Bonner  Springs,  Kan.  In 
1825,  the  brothers  built  a  post  on  the  south  side  of  the  Kansas,  about  seven 
miles  from  Westport,  Mo.,  and  in  1828-29,  Cyprian  located  a  post  for  trade 
with  the  Delawares  and  Shawnees  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  six  miles 
west  of  the  Missouri  line.  It  was  from  this  last  house  that  JCF  organized  his 
first  expedition,  and  it  was  also  the  main  outfitting  station  for  caravans  en- 
gaged in  the  Santa  Fe  trade  {Kan.  State  Hist.  Coll.,  9:573-74). 

Albert  G.  Boone,  grandson  of  frontiersman  Daniel  Boone,  had  taken  his 
family  to  Westport  about  1838.  With  James  G.  Hamilton,  his  partner,  he  ob- 
tained a  license  in  1843  to  trade  with  the  Potawatomis,  Weas,  Ottawas,  and 
Piankeshaws  (barry,  pt.  10,  29:153,  pt.  12,  29:474-75). 

Voucher  No.  36,  Westport,  Mo.  Terr.,  10  June  1842 
U.S.  to  P.  M.  Chouteau 

4  mules  bought  of  L.  Maxwell  160.00 

1  barrel  sugar  286  lbs.  28.60 

1  sack  coffee  188  lbs.  23.70 


144 


to  blacksmithing  6.95 

amount  assumed  to  Boone  &  Hamilton  79.37 

298.62 

A  subvoucher  is  present  for  the  purchase  of  sundries  from  Boone  &  Hamil- 
ton. JCF's  endorsement  explains  that  some  of  the  purchases  from  that  firm 
were  personal  items  for  his  men,  "but  these  bills  did  not  reach  my  hands 
until  after  I  had  paid  off  my  men,  &  I  respectfully  submit  that  the  accidental 
loss  may  not  fall  upon  me." 

P.  M.  Chouteau  is  probably  Pierre  Menard  Chouteau,  son  of  Francis  Ges- 
seau  Chouteau  (b.  1797).  He  had  settled  in  Westport. 

Voucher  no.  6,  third  and  fourth  quarters  of  1842  below,  shows  Maxwell 
employed  as  a  hunter  for  152  days  on  the  expedition.  Lucien  Bonaparte  Max- 
well (1818-75)  was  the  grandson  of  trader  Pierre  Menard  of  Illinois,  was  re- 
lated to  the  Chouteaus,  and  was  a  friend  of  Kit  Carson.  Probably  in  1844, 
he  married  the  heiress  of  the  vast  Beaubien-Miranda  tract  in  New  Mexico, 
and  eventually  became  its  sole  owner.  He  would  accompany  JCF  on  his  ex- 
pedition to  California  in  1845  and  play  a  role  in  the  conquest  of  California 
( DUNHAM  [2];  PEARSON,  10).  DUNHAM  says  that  Maxwell  had  accompanied  the 
Nicollet  expedition  of  1839  and  already  was  acquainted  with  JCF;  but  his 
name  does  not  appear  in  the  vouchers  for  that  expedition.  A  voyageur  named 
Maxime  Maxwell  was  present  on  the  1838  expedition,  which  may  be  the 
source  of  some  confusion. 

Voucher  No.  37,  Kansas  Ford,  Mo.  Terr.,  15  June  1842 
U.S.  to  Louis  Pepin 

20  lbs.  coffee  5.00 

a  quantity  of  pumpkins  and  beans  3.00 

8!00 

Signed  with  Pepin's  mark  and  witnessed  by  C.  Lambert.  Pepin  not  further 
identified.  The  name  may  be  "Papin,"  and  possibly  he  is  the  brother  of 
Joseph  Papin,  who  operated  a  ferry  at  the  site  of  Topeka  from  1840. 

Subvoucher,  New  Yor\,  6  May  1842 
U.S.  to  James  R.  Chilton 

1  set  of  Daguerreotype  apparatus  40.00 

25  polished  Daguerreotype  plates  37.50 

1  pocket  microscope  .75 

7825 

This  document  is  handled  as  a  subvoucher  because  it  is  not  carried  in  the 
regular  abstract  of  vouchers  for  the  quarter.  Dr.  James  R.  Chilton,  a  physician 
and  chemist  at  263  Broadway,  New  York,  supplied  daguerreotype  apparatus 
to  JCF  for  the  expeditions  of  1842  and  1843-44.  The  device  was  still  very 
new,  and  there  is  little  doubt  that  JCF  was  among  the  first  to  attempt  to 
photograph  the  West  with  such  equipment.  Some  of  the  lithographs  appearing 

145 


in  the  Reports  and  Memoirs  are  undoubtedly  based  upon  daguerreotypes  or 
on  negatives  copied  by  Mathew  Brady  and  others.  Apparently  no  originals 
have  survived. 

Charles  Preuss,  in  a  belittling  mood  as  always,  had  no  patience  when  JCF 
tinkered  with  the  gadget.  "Yesterday  afternoon  and  this  morning  Fremont 
set  up  his  daguerreotype  to  photograph  the  rocks;  he  spoiled  five  plates  that 
way.  Not  a  thing  was  to  be  seen  on  them.  That's  the  way  it  often  is  with 
these  Americans.  They  know  everything,  can  do  everything,  and  when  they 
are  put  to  a  test,  they  fail  miserably"  (2  Aug.  1842,  preuss,  32).  When  JCF 
tried  again  on  5  Aug.,  Preuss  wrote,  "Today  he  said  the  air  up  here  is  too 
thin;  that  is  the  reason  his  daguerreotype  was  a  failure.  Old  boy,  you  don't 
understand  the  thing,  that  is  it"  (preuss,  35). 


Third  and  Fourth  Quarters,  1842 

Voucher  No.  1,  Fort  John,  Platte  River,  17  July  1842 
U.S.  to  Registe  Larente 

For  services  as  voyageur  48  days  @  1.00  per  diem,  27  May  to 
13  July  1842  48.00 

Signed  with  Larente's  mark  and  witnessed  by  C.  Lambert.  Larente  ap- 
parently was  the  only  employee  who  chose  to  leave  the  expedition  when  JCF 
outlined  the  dangers  which  lay  ahead  (see  p.  226). 

Voucher  No.  2,  Fort  Bissonette,  Laramie  For1{,  1  Sept.  1842 
U.S.  to  Sibille,  Adams  &  Co. 

20  July 

1  tomahawk  1.00 

3  Aug. 

A.  Lucier  and  his  mule  8  days  (^  2.00  16.00 

Joseph  Bissonnette  for  guide  and  interpreter,  8  days  @  13.00 

per  diem  104.00 

1  horse  paid  to  an  Indian  36.00 

1  Sept. 
12  cups  coffee  18.00,  6  cups  sugar  9.00  27.00 

254.00 
Less  1  cow  and  calf  50.00 

204.00 

Jean  Sibille  and  David  Adams  had  been  licensed  to  trade  with  the  Indians 
in  the  vicinity  of  Laramie  as  early  as  1841,  and  by  Jan.  1842  had  started  a  post 
they  called  Fort  Adams,  apparently  upstream  from  Fort  John.  They  then 
purchased  a  new  establishment  of  Lancaster  P.  Lupton's,  called  Fort  Platte. 

146 


Thereafter,  one  hears  no  more  of  Fort  Adams,  and  the  new  owners  had 
finished  construction  of  Fort  Platte  by  Oct.  1842.  A  fragmentary  diary  kept 
by  Adams  records  finding  the  fort  "oil  finished  and  oil  the  boys  well  on  27 
October."  He  also  refers  to  another  partner  in  the  firm,  John  Richard;  to  "mr. 
besonat  [  Bissonette]";  and  "mr.  shatraw  [Chartrain],"  a  clerk. 

Dale  L.  Morgan,  who  has  supplied  the  above  information  from  the  Adams 
Papers,  MoSHi,  also  reports  that  A.  Lucier  had  been  an  employee  of  the 
Sibille  &  Adams  firm.  Joseph  Bissonette  (1818-94),  born  in  St.  Louis,  had 
come  to  the  Platte  region  at  the  age  of  eighteen  and  married  into  the  Sioux 
tribe.  He  worked  variously  as  a  company  trader  and  free  trader,  and  as  an 
interpreter  for  Indian  agents.  He  is  said  to  have  worked  as  late  as  1875  in 
persuading  Sioux  chiefs  Red  Cloud  and  Spotted  Tail  to  relinquish  the  Black 
Hills  in  Dakota  Territory  (j.  d.  mc  dermott  [2]). 


Voucher  No.  3,  Bellevue,  Mo.  Terr.,  4  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  P.  A.  Sarpy 

An  almost  illegible  voucher  for  goods  received  between  26  Sept.  and  3 
Oct.  1842,  including  food,  the  use  of  four  horses  and  men  for  four  days,  etc. 
The  largest  item  is  for  a  mackinaw  boat,  $166.00.  Total  charges,  $348.28.  In 
explaining  the  cost  of  such  items,  JCF  wrote:  "In  that  country  we  often  found 
a  difficulty  in  getting  anything  to  eat,  &  were  obligfd  to  take  what  we  could 
get  at  any  cost."  Peter  A.  Sarpy  (1805-65),  brother  of  John  B.  Sarpy  and  a 
skillful  barterer  with  the  Indians,  was  in  charge  of  the  post  at  Bellevue,  just 
north  of  the  junction  of  the  Platte  and  Missouri  rivers.  For  a  biography,  see 

WICKMAN. 


Voucher  No.  4,  St.  Louts,  17  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Clement  Lambert 

For  the  following  articles  furnished  to  Lt.  Fremont's  party 
of  25  men  on  their  voyage  down  the  Missouri  River,  from 
Bellevue  to  St.  Louis: 

apples  1.25,  3  tin  cups  25^,  1  lantern  1.00,  coffee  mill  1.25  3.75 

eggs  and  milk  1.25,  chickens  1.37^,  pork  1.00  3.62^ 

beef  2.00, 2  forks  25^,  butter  500,  milk  250  3.00 

turnips  37^0,  coffee  2.00,  sugar  1.00,  apples  1.00  4.37^ 

bread  1.75,  milk  500,  eggs  750,  coffee  750  3.75 

chickens  1.25,  honey  250,  milk  37-^  1.87^ 

poultry  2.00,  butter  750,  eggs  62^0,  honey  750  4.25 

milk  500,  whiskey  1.37^,  bacon  3.00  4.87^ 

sugar  1.25,  bread  1.00,  whiskey  500  2.75 

chickens,  eggs,  milk,  potatoes,  cabbage  1.75 

onions  500,  whiskey  1.00,  candles  750,  poultry  2.00  4.25 

147 


eggs  750,  butter  1.25,  milk  50^,  bread  1.00  3.25 

whiskey  2.00,  bread  1%,  coffee  1.25,  milk  750  4.75 

eggs  1.00,  whiskey  1.00  2.00 


48.25 


Voucher  No.  5,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Benjamin  Clapp 

1  barometer  35.00 


Voucher  No.  6,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Lucien  Maxwell 

For  services  as  hunter  @  1.66^  per  diem  for  152  days,  from  1 

July  to  31  Oct.  1842  234.75 

1  horse  70.00 

2  mules  90.00 

414.75 


Voucher  No.  7,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  /.  B.  L'Esperance 

For  12  days'  time  and  expenses  going  to  Lexington,  Mo.,  to 
collect  a  draft  for  $3,000  drawn  by  the  U.S.  on  the  Receiver 
of  Public  Moneys  at  Lexington  in  favor  of  Lt.  Fremont  66.25 

Endorsed  by  JCF:  "I  was  not  able  to  cash  the  above  draft  in  St.  Louis,  &  was 
obliged  to  hire  a  trustworthy  person  to  proceed  to  Lexington  as  it  was  neces- 
sary to  pay  off  my  men  as  soon  as  possible."  J.  B.  L'Esperance  not  further 
identified. 


Voucher  No.  8,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Jean  B.  Lefevre 

For  service  as  voyageur  @  81|0  per  diem,  153  days  from 
26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842.  125.07 

Signed  with  Lefevre's  mark  and  witnessed  by  F.  V.  Pfister.  Pfister  was  a 
clerk  on  Laurel  Street  in  St.  Louis,  probably  working  for  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and 
Company. 

148 


( 


Voucher  No.  9,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  ]ean  B.  Lefevre 

Transportation  of  19  horses  and  a  party  of  men  from  St. 
Louis  to  Chouteau's  Landing,  300  mi.  38.00 

Signed  with  Lefevre's  mark  and  witnessed  by  B.  Clapp. 

Voucher  No.  10,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Benjamin  Potra 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  66^  per  diem  for  153  days,  26 
May  to  26  Oct.  1842  100.98 

Signed  with  Potra's  mark  and  witnessed  by  John  B.  Sarpy.  Sarpy  (1798- 
1857)  was  one  of  the  most  active  and  influential  citizens  of  St.  Louis,  a  partner 
of  Pierre  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  an  original  projector  of  the  Missouri  Pacific 
Railroad  (scharf,  1:580-83). 

Voucher  No.  11,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Louis  Guion 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  87^^  per  diem  for  102  days, 

20  July  to  31  Oct.  1842  89.25 

2  horses  @  70.00  each  140.00 

229.25 

Signed  with  Guion's  mark  and  witnessed  by  John  B.  Sarpy. 

Voucher  No.  12,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  ]ean  Baptiste  Dumes 

For  services  as  cook  @  75^  per  diem  for  153  days,  26  May 
to  26  Oct.  1842  114.75 

No  further  information  on  Dumes;  voucher  not  signed  or  witnessed. 

Voucher  No.  13,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Basil  Lajeunesse 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  75jz!  per  diem  for  153  days,  from 

26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842  114.75 

1  overcoat  lost  in  the  Platte  River,  in  the  service  of  the  U.S.         5.00 

119.75 

Signed  with  Basil  Lajeunesse's  mark  and  witnessed  by  John  B.  Sarpy.  La- 
jeunesse also  accompanied  JCF  on  his  second  expedition  as  far  as  Fort  Hall, 

149 


and  on  the  1845  expedition.  He  was  killed  by  the  Modocs  at  Klamath  Lake 
in  1846.  A  brother,  Francois,  who  had  been  one  of  Sir  William  Drummond 
Stewart's  employees  on  his  journey  of  1837,  was  with  JCF  in  1843-44. 


Voucher  No.  14,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Franfois  Tessier 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  62^0  per  diem  for  153  days, 
from  26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842  95.621 

Signed  with  Tessier's  mark  and  witnessed  by  John  B.  Sarpy.  No  further 
information  on  Tessier. 


Voucher  No.  15,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Benjamin  Cadot 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  62^0  per  diem  for  153  days, 
from  26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842  95.62^ 

Signed  with  Cadot's  mark  and  witnessed  by  John  B.  Sarpy.  A  man  named 
Benjamin  Cadot,  thirty-seven  years  of  age  and  of  Canadian  birth,  was  listed 
in  the  census  of  1860  at  the  Yankton  agency  (see  South  Dakota  Historical 
Collections,  10:436). 


Voucher  No.  16,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Joseph  Clement 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  66\(^  per  diem  for  153  days, 
from  26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842  101.75 

Signed  with  Clement's  mark  and  witnessed  by  John  B.  Sarpy.  Clement  not 
further  identified. 


Voucher  No.  17,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Daniel  Simonds 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  62^0  per  diem  for  153  days, 
from  26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842  95.62^ 

Signed  with  Simonds'  mark  and  witnessed  by  John  B.  Sarpy.  The  David 
Adams  Papers,  MoSHi,  contain  a  contract  between  Sibille  &  Adams  and 
"Daniel  Simons,"  in  which  Simons  signs  on  as  a  "common  hand"  for  a  Rocky 
Mountain  expedition.  He  signed  by  mark  in  Aug.  1841,  came  down  from  the 
mountains  with  Adams  in  the  spring  of  1842,  and  evidently  signed  on  with 
JCF  shortly  thereafter. 

150 


Voucher  No.  18,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Leonard  Benoist 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  750  per  diem  for  153  days,  26 
May  to  26  Oct.  1842  114.75 

Benoist  not  further  identified. 

Voucher  No.  19,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Christopher  Carson 

For  services  as  guide  and  hunter  @  100.00  per  month  for 

3  months,  from  1  June  to  1  Sept.  1842  300.00 

1  mule  40.00 

340.00 

Signed  with  Carson's  mark  and  witnessed  by  F.  V.  Pfister.  The  acquisition 
of  Christopher  Carson  (1809-68)  as  a  guide  was  a  stroke  of  luck  for  JCF  and 
the  beginning  of  a  long  friendship  between  the  young  explorer  and  the  ex- 
perienced Scotch-Irish  trapper  and  Indian  fighter.  Although  at  this  time  he 
was  unable  to  write  his  name,  he  could  converse  in  French,  Spanish,  and  sev- 
eral Indian  languages.  Later  he  would  share  honors  as  a  guide  with  his 
former  fellow  trapper,  Thomas  "Broken  Hand"  Fitzpatrick,  on  JCF's  sec- 
ond expedition,  and  as  a  member  of  the  third  venture  he  would  participate 
in  the  conquest  of  California.  After  the  Mexican  War  and  the  refusal  of  the 
Senate  to  confirm  his  commission  in  the  regular  Army,  Carson  settled  in 
Taos,  New  Mexico  Territory,  served  as  Indian  agent  for  the  Utes,  and  dictated 
the  story  of  his  life  to  John  Mostin,  probably  at  the  persuasion  of  Jesse  B. 
Turley.  For  biographical  background,  see  sabin  and  carson. 

Voucher  No.  20,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Michel  Marly 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  62^0  per  diem  for  153  days, 
from  26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842  95.62^ 

Michel  Marly,  born  in  St.  Louis  in  1820;  no  further  information. 

Voucher  No.  21,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Baptiste  Bernier 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  1.00  per  diem  for  153  days,  from 
26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842  153.00 

Signed  with  Bernier's  mark  and  witnessed  by  John  B.  Sarpy.  It  is  probably 
to  Baptiste  Bernier  that  Lucien  Fontenelle  referred  when  he  wrote  Andrew 
Drips  from  Fort  William,  1  Aug.  1835:  "young  Provost,  Bernier,  Bellaire  and 
others  are  hired  as  trappers"  (MoSHi — Drips  Papers). 


Voucher  No.  22,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Honore  Ayot 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  830  per  diem  for  153  days, 
from  26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842  126.99 

Signed  with  Ayot's  mark  and  witnessed  by  John  B.  Sarpy.  For  Ayot's  con- 
tract with  JCF,  see  Doc.  No.  42. 


Voucher  No.  23,  Fort  John,  Platte  River,  2  Sept.  1842 
U.S.  to  Franfois  Latulipe 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  1.00  per  diem  for  63  days,  from 

29  June  to  1  Sept.  1842  63.00 

For  one  horse  30.00 

12  buffalo  robes  for  pack  horses  25.00 

118.00 

Signed  with  Latulippe's  mark  and  witnessed  by  C.  Lambert. 


Voucher  No.  24,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Franfois  Badeau 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  1.00  per  diem  for  153  days, 
from  26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842  153.00 

Signed  with  Badeau's  mark  and  witnessed  by  John  B.  Sarpy.  Badeau,  who 
also  went  on  the  second  expedition  and  was  described  by  JCF  as  being  one 
of  his  "most  faithful  and  efficient  men,"  was  accidentally  killed  by  his  own 
gun,  23  May  1844,  as  the  expedition  was  returning  home  and  was  buried  on 
the  banks  of  the  Sevier  River.  See  p.  697. 


Voucher  No.  25,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Louis  Menard 


For  services  as  voyageur  @  81|0  per  diem  for  153  days, 
from  26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842  125.07| 

The  name  Louis  Menard  is  so  common  that  it  is  difficult  to  identify  this 
man,  but  he  is  probably  the  same  Louis  L.  Menard  who  contracted  his 
services  as  a  boatman  on  the  upper  Missouri  in  May  1852  (MoSHi — P.  Chou- 
teau Maffitt  Collection).  Louis  Menard  was  also  on  Fremont's  second  expedi- 
tion. 


152 


Voucher  No.  26,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  C.  Lambert 

For  services  as  camp  conductor  @  1.85|^  per  diem  for 
153  days,  26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842  278.07 

Voucher  No.  27,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Joseph  Ruelle 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  66^0  per  diem  for  153  days, 
26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842  101.75 

Signed  with  Ruelle's  mark  and  witnessed  by  John  B.  Sarpy.  The  name 
appears  often  in  the  records  of  Chouteau's  American  Fur  Company  (vols.  X 
and  GG)  from  1835  to  1845,  in  the  upper  Missouri  area.  According  to  g.  r. 
BROOKS  he  had  been  with  Robert  Campbell  in  1833  and  may  also  be  the  Joseph 
Ruel  who  married  Jeanne  Pichereau  on  3  July  1838  in  St.  Louis.  Ruelle  ob- 
tained a  judgment  in  St.  Louis,  21  Nov.  1844,  of  $40.75  against  Fremont  for 
a  gun  lost  on  the  expedition  (DNA-217,  T-135,  Statement  of  Differences  on 
Settlement  of  Fremont's  Accounts,  6  June  1849,  No.  7624,  p.  6). 

Voucher  No.  28,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Auguste  Janisse 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  87^0  per  diem  for  153  days, 
from  26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842  133.87^ 

Signed  with  Janisse's  mark  and  witnessed  by  John  B.  Sarpy.  The  name  ap- 
pears as  Auguste  Janis  in  the  CjG  ledger  of  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company. 
PREUss  and  his  editors  call  him  Johnny  Auguste  Janisse,  and  the  editors  say 
he  was  the  only  Negro  or  mulatto  among  JCF's  men  on  this  expedition.  He 
was  also  with  Stansbury  in  1849. 

Voucher  No.  29,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Moise  Chardonnais 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  75^  per  diem  for  153  days, 
from  26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842  144.75 

Signed  with  Chardonnais'  mark  and  witnessed  by  John  B.  Sarpy.  No  fur- 
ther identification  of  Chardonnais. 

Voucher  No.  30,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Raphael  Proue 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  75)^  per  diem  for  153  days,  from 
26  May  to  26  Oct.  1842  114.75 

The  faithful  Raphael  Proue  |  Proulx,  Proux]  would  continue  with  JCF  on 

153 


his  second  and  third  ventures  as  well  as  the  disastrous  fourth  expedition  of 
1848  and  would  freeze  to  death  9  Jan.  1849  in  the  San  Juan  Mountains  of 
southwest  Colorado. 


Voucher  No.  31,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company 

8  French  carts  280.00 

10  Spanish  saddles  60.00 

10  bridles  7.50 
30  halters  37.50 
30  white  oak  stakes  30.00 

11  saddle  blankets  8.25 
8  sets  harness  for  shaft  100.00 
8  sets  harness  for  French  carts  68.00 
4  Spanish  saddles  28.00 

3  bridles  and  martingales  9.75 
1  3-pt.  blue  blanket  10.00 
1  piece  Russia  sheeting  13.00 
1  lb.  patent  thread,  1.00,  1  bundle  cord,  75^  1.75 
1  blank  memorandum  book  .50 

1  box  tobacco,  148  lbs.  14.80 
10  lbs.  Vermillion  30.00 

4  doz.  fire  steels,  7.00,  1  gross  Indians  awls  2.20  9.20 
6  scalping  knives  18.00,  500  gun  flints  2.50  20.50 

2  buffalo  tongues,  12.00,  6  hams,  100  lbs.,  6.25  18.25 
310  lbs.  common  bacon  12.40 

2  barrels  pork  15.00,  2  barrels  flour  10.00  25.00 
4  barrels  pilot  bread  16.00,  1  barrel  butter  crackers  5.00  21.00 
50  lbs.  coffee  7.75 
6  lbs.  tea  6.00 
100  lbs.  sugar  and  keg  7.75 
23  lbs.  rice  and  keg  1.69 

3  loaves  white  sugar,  11^  lbs.  @  20^  2.30 
1  keg  50  proof  port  wine,  4  gals.  11.50 

1  keg  brandy,  4  gallons  11.50 
10  lbs.  common  soap  1.00 

2  lbs.  castile  soap  .75 
100  lbs.  bar  lead  5.00,  50  lbs.  gunpowder  15.00  20.00 
1  bag  shot  1.75, 1  ball  twine  250,  2  doz.  tent  pins  750  2.75 


154 


11  yds.  Russia  sheeting  4.37 

spades  2.50,  1  coffee  mill  1.50  4.00 

J  doz.  mustard  3.00,  11  lbs.  sperm  candles  5,50  8.50 

6  lbs.  assorted  nails  600,  1  keg  tar  1.00  1.60 

1  can  100  proof  spirits  of  wine,  4  gals.  4.13 

J  doz.  matches  .25 

3  reams  wrapping  paper  7.50 
1  file  250,  1  pair  nippers  1.00,  2  doz.  spoons  750  2.00 
1  piece  canvas  for  cart  covers,  33|  yds.  5.03 

1  box  macaroni  5.38 

4  lead  lines  2.50 
3  bands  for  bacon  1 .87 
3  sheet  iron  kettles  6.60 

2  tin  kettles  1.50 

2  tin  pans  1.00,  1  doz.  tin  plates  1.50  2.50 
1  doz.  cups  630,  1  coffee  boiler  and  1  lantern  1.00  1.63 
6  knives  and  forks  1.25,  1  lb.  pepper  160,  2  augers  880  2.29 
1  drawing  knife  750,  1  hand  saw  1.25  2.00 
1  hatchet  1.50,  3  Collins  axes,  3.75  5.25 

3  balls  twine  750,  1  teakettle  1.00,  1  ball  lampwick  250  2.00 
1  bag  salt  400,  1  pineapple  cheese  1.25  '  1.65 
1  oven  and  lid  1.25 
1  frying  pan  .75 
paid  for  making  tent  15.00 

5  lbs.  saleratus  1.00 
1  can  linseed  oil,  2  gals.  4.00 
10  lbs.  Spanish  brown  paint  1.00,  1  brush  1.12  2.12 

1  rifle  given  to  Preuss  20.00 

2  mosquito  bars  8.00 
1  powder  horn  1.25 
drayages  1.50 

1005.85 

Commission  48.83 

1054.68 

Endorsed  by  JCF:  "At  the  time  when  this  expenditure  was  incurred  I  had 

not  yet  received  sufficient  funds  &  as  the  advanced  season  of  the  year  did 
not  permit  me  [to]  delay  the  setting  out  of  the  expedition,  I  had  recourse  to 
the  house  of  Chouteau  &  Co.  who  advanced  me  money,  transacted,  my  busi- 
ness &  charged  a  commission." 


155 


Voucher  No.  32,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company 

\7  horses  and  2  mules  970.62 

13  mules  520.00 

transportation  of  the  above  103.75 

1591.37 

Voucher  No.  33,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Bent,  St.  Vrain  &  Co. 

3  mules  135.00 

2  horses  50.00 

bunting  for  flag  25.00 

5  lb.  coffee  10.00 

1  comb  -50 

1  piece  rope  1-QQ 

221.50 

Bent,  St.  Vrain  &  Co.,  with  a  branch  post  (Fort  St.  Vrain)  on  the  South 
Platte  and  Bent's  Fort  on  the  Arkansas,  ranked  next  to  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and 
Company  in  the  amount  of  business  transacted  during  this  period.  The  busi- 
ness included  trading  with  the  Indians  and  raising  horses  and  mules. 

Voucher  No.  34,  St.  Louis,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  J.  &  S.  Hawken 

For  splicing  gun  stock  1-50 

fly  on  lock  -50 

cleaning  double-barreled  gun  -75 

hind  sight  on  rifle  -50 

3.25 


Voucher  No.  35,  Washington,  1  Nov.  1842 
U.S.  to  Charles  Preuss 

For  transportation  of  13  boxes  containing  instruments  for 

surveys  from  Washington  to  New^  York  2.37^ 

from  New  York  to  Buffalo  6.2 ^ 

from  Buffalo  to  Chicago  3.27^ 

from  Chicago  to  St.  Louis  3.37^ 

15.231 

156 


Voucher  No.  36,  Washitigton,  31  Oct.  1842 
U.S.  to  Charles  Preuss 

For  services  rendered  to  the  U.S.  as  assistant  to  Lt.  J.  C. 
Fremont  in  the  survey  of  the  Platte  and  Kansas  rivers  for 
184  days,  from  1  May  to  1  Nov.  1842,  @  3.00  per  diem  552.00 

Voucher  No.  37,  Washington,  24  Nop.  1842 
U.S.  to  Thomas  W.  Burch 

for  making  1  drawing  table  and  shelves  7.00 

Thomas  W.  Burch  not  further  identified. 

Voucher  No.  38,  Washington,  1  Dec.  1842 
U.S.  to  Charles  Preuss 

For  services  rendered  to  the  U.S.  as  assistant  to  Lt.  J.  C.  Fre- 
mont in  constructing  maps  of  surveys  west  of  the  Missis- 
sippi for  30  days,  from  1  to  30  Nov.  1842  90.00 

Voucher  No.  39,  Baltimore,  5  Dec.  1842 
U.S.  to  J.  N.  Nicollet 

For  services  rendered  to  the  U.S.  as  superintendent  of  Sur- 
veys West  of  the  Mississippi  for  92  days,  from  1  Aug.  to 
31  Oct.  1842,  @  8.00  per  diem  736.00 

Voucher  No.  40,  St.  Louis,  28  Dec.  1842 
U.S.  to  Osea  Harmiyo 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  50<z'  per  diem  for  113  days,  from  9 
July  to  31  Oct.  1842  36.50 

Signed  with  Harmiyo's  mark  and  witnessed  by  Hfenry]  R.  Brant.  The 
spelling  is  phonetic  for  Jose  Armijo,  a  young  Spaniard  hired  at  Fort  St.  Vrain. 
See  below,  pp.  204-5.  Henry  B.  Brant,  the  nineteen-year-old  son  of  Lieut. 
Col.  Joshua  B.  and  Sarah  Benton  Brant,  of  St.  Louis,  accompanied  the  expedi- 
tion as  far  as  Fort  Laramie — together  with  John  Randolph  Benton,  the  twelve- 
year-old  brother  of  Jessie.  Here  the  two  young  men  were  left  because  of 
possible  encounters  with  hostile  Indians.  In  the  fall,  when  the  expedition 
returned  to  the  settlements,  JCF  sold  at  public  auction  in  Bellevue  much  of 
the  equipment  that  was  still  intact — such  as  carts,  harnesses,  horses,  mules, 
rifles,  and  saddles — and  it  was  Henry  B.  Brant  who  later  swore  to  the  correct- 
ness of  the  $910  bill  of  sale  (see  Bill  of  Sale,  DNA-217,  T-135,  9  Feb.  1843). 

157 


Voucher  No.  2,  St.  Louis,  16  Jan.  1843 
U.S.  to  Joseph  Bougar 

For  services  as  voyageur  @  $1.00  per  diem,  for  144  days, 
from  9  June  to  31  October  1842  144.00 


Signed  with  Joseph  Bougar's  mark  and  witnessed  by  H.  B.  Brant.  Bougar 
is  not  listed  in  JCF's  reports  or  the  Memoirs  as  being  a  part  of  the  expedi- 
tion; yet  he  must  have  joined  just  as  the  party  was  ready  to  leave  Cyprian 
Chouteau's  trading  house  on  the  Kansas  River.  An  order  of  William  Kenceleur 
to  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company,  to  pay  Bougar  |82.00  indicates  that  he  was 
at  the  Vermillion  Post  [Kansas]  on  11  May  1842  (MoSHi — P.  Chouteau 
Maffitt  Collection). 

All  the  above  documents  are  in  DNA-217,  Third  Auditor's  Reports  and  Ac- 
counts, Acct.  No.  16962,  except  voucher  nos.  35  and  36  in  the  first  and  second 
quarters,  no.  31  and  no.  40  in  third  and  fourth  quarters,  and  the  subvoucher 
to  Chilton,  all  of  which  are  on  roll  No.  1  of  DNA  microfilm  T-135 — a 
special  consolidated  file  of  JCF  accounts. 


54.  Asa  Gray  to  John  Torrey 

Monday  Morning  [Feb.  1843],  Cambridge 
My  Dear  Friend 

I  conclude  to  send  you  a  small  parcel  instead  of  a  letter.  Enclosed 
is  a  hasty  determination  of  the  Fremont  plants  now  in  my  hands.  I 
found  ripe  seeds  of  the  first  two  of  the  list,  which  I  hope  to  grow. 
Both  are  worthy  of  being  figured,  although  the  first  only  is  showy. 

I  found  Hooker's^  letter  [not  found]  dated  so  far  back  as  Nov.  10, 
and  send  it  for  your  perusal,  I  think  some  arrangement  such  as  he 
desires  may  be  made  respecting  the  Antarctic  collections.  The  Ore- 
gon and  Califn.  I  hope  will  somehow  tumble  into  our  hands.  Please 
send  back  his  letter  (by  mail  if  you  are  not  sending  a  parcel)  early 
next  week,  as  I  must  answer  it  on  the  1st  prox.  .  .  . 

Engelmann  writes  about  his  friend  Dr.  Lindheimer,  who  wants  to 
collect  in  Texas  &c. — and  offer  plants  for  sale,  at  $8-10  per  hundred. 
he  Sm  I  to  vouch  for  generic  names. — advertise  in  Silliman. — I  shall 
write  to  him  on  the  subject,  securing  that  all  shall  pass  thro'  our 
hands.  I  think  I  will  advise  him  to  send  him  to  Rky.  Mts.  with  some 
of  the  parties  that  will  be  sure  to  be  going  if  the  Oregon  bill 
passes.  As  he  is  a  Doctor — a  pretty  good  botanist,  I  guess,  and  makes 

158 


very  good  specimens  of  the  right  kind — flowers — fruit  &c. — why  not 
recommend  him  to  Fremont  &  Col.  Abert,  and  get  him  a  place?  I 
think  we  cannot  do  better.  If  you  think  so  please  act  upon  the  sug- 
gestion without  delay.  The  more  collectors  we  can  get  into  the  field 
the  better,  Buckley"  &  all. 

•  •  •  • 

Your  affectionate, 

A.  Gray 


ALS,  RC  (NNNBG). 

1.  Sir  William  Jackson  Hooker  (1785-1865),  director  of  Kew  Gardens  in 
London  and  a  highly  respected  English  botanist.  He  had  published  a  well 
known  work  on  North  American  botany,  Flora  Boreali- Americana  (London, 
1829-40). 

2.  Persons  mentioned  in  this  paragraph  include  Dr.  Ferdinand  Jakob  Lind- 
heimer  (1801-79),  a  German  botanist  who  was  visiting  in  St.  Louis.  He  had 
fought  in  the  war  for  Texan  independence  and,  encouraged  by  Engelmann, 
was  about  to  return  to  Texas  on  a  collecting  expedition  (geiser).  Benjamin 
Silliman  (1779-1864)  was  publisher  of  the  ArHerican  Journal  of  Science  and 
Arts,  a  pioneer  work  of  its  kind  in  the  United  States.  Samuel  Botsford  Buck- 
ley (1809-83),  botanist  and  field  naturalist,  later  became  state  geologist  of 
Texas.  Gray  held  Buckley  in  low  esteem  (particularly  for  daring  to  publish 
new  species,  some  considered  valid  today,  on  his  own!)  and  his  remark 
twitches  with  feeling. 

Asa  Gray  had  proposed  that  Lindheimer  be  sent  to  the  Rockies  and  Oregon 
for  further  collecting,  possibly  with  JCF.  "Fremont  will  not  take  Geyer;  but  I 
believe  he  wants  some  one.  The  interesting  region  (the  most  so  in  the  world) 
is  the  high  Rocky  Mountains  about  the  sources  of  the  Platte  &  thence  South!!" 
(Gray  to  Engelmann,  13  Feb.  1843,  MoSB).  Gray's  enthusiasm  for  western 
flora  contributed  much  to  botanical  knowledge  of  the  region,  but  it  was  not 
until  1872  that  he  was  able  to  go  to  the  Rockies  himself  and  see  the  vegetation 
that  he  had  studied  for  a  lifetime. 


55.  J.  J.  Abcrt  to  Thomas  H.  Benton 


Bureau  of  Topographical  Engr. 
Washington  March  10th  1843 
Sir 

I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  letter  of  the 
7th  inst.  and  to  thank  you  for  your  suggestions  in  reference  to  the 
Survey  now  required  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Be  as- 
sured that  they  will  receive  the  greatest  attention.  A  sketch  embrac- 

159 


ing  your  views  has  been  enclosed  to  Mr.  Fremont  in  order  to  obtain 
from  him  the  customary  estimate.  Very   Respectfully  Your  Obt. 

Servt. 

J.  J.  Abert 

CI.  C.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  6:152).  Benton's  letter  is  not  found,  but  the  "sketch"  is 
an  enclosure  with  Doc.  No.  56. 


56.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topographical  Engs. 
Washington  March  10th  1843 
Sir 

You  will  please  to  give  immediate  attention  to  your  accounts,  as  it 
is  necessary,  both  by  the  laws  &  regulations  that  these  should  be  ad- 
justed. Before  the  Bureau  can  decide  upon  any  orders  for  your  duties 
during  the  ensuing  season,  it  is  necessary  that  you  should  submit  an 
estimate  in  detail  of  the  probable  expence,  embracing  the  whole  or  a 
part  of  the  sketch  of  duties  a  copy  of  which  is  enclosed.  Very  Re- 
spectfully Your  Obt.  Servt. 

J.  J.  Abert 
C.  C.  T.  E. 
[Enclosure] 

To  proceed  to  the  main  forks  of  the  Kansas  river,  determine  their 
position  and  thence  survey  the  main  stream  to  its  head.  From  the 
head  of  the  Kansas  to  fall  directly  on  to  the  Arkansas  and  survey  it 
to  its  head,  crossing  the  mountains  by  that  prong  which  forms  the 
boundary  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico.  Continuing  along 
the  western  base  of  the  mountains  and  crossing  the  heads  of  all  the 
streams  which  take  their  rise  in  that  portion  of  the  mountains,  join 
on  to  your  positions  of  1842  on  the  Colorado  of  the  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia. Thence  continuing  north-westwardly  across  the  waters  of  the 
Columbia,  turn  westwardly  into  the  Flat-head  Country,  and  join  on 
to  Lieut.  Wilkes'  Survey.  From  that  point  to  return  by  the  Oregon 
road,  and  on  again  reaching  the  mountains,  diverge  a  litde  and  make 
a  circuit  of  the  Wind  river  chain,  which  is  about  eighty  miles  long. 

i6o 


This  circuit  would  embrace  within  its  Umits  the  heads  of  the  Colo- 
rado, the  Columbia,  some  of  the  heads  of  the  Missouri  proper,  the 
Yellowstone  and  the  Platte. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  6:151).  Senator  Benton's  influence  upon  Colonel  Abert, 
and  his  role  as  the  man  behind  the  scenes  in  the  rise  of  JCF's  career,  is  evi- 
dent here.  Benton  writes  JCF's  orders,  obviously  after  consultation  with  the 
young  lieutenant,  and  Abert — in  a  sense — merely  ratifies  them.  But  Abert  is 
not  a  cipher,  as  Benton  and  the  Fremonts  later  portrayed  him;  his  views 
happened  to  correspond  to  Benton's  in  the  matter  of  western  expansion. 
"Abert  could  not,  as  did  Senator  Benton,  intrigue  on  behalf  of  a  special  policy 
of  imperial  aggrandizement,  nor  could  he  initiate  a  legislative  policy  for  the 
West"  (goetzmann,  66). 

These  are  the  orders  for  JCF's  expedition  of  1843-44  which  will  take  him 
into  California.  Yet  nothing  in  the  orders  indicates  that  he  has  this  discretion; 
he  is,  in  fact,  to  return  down  the  eastern  side  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains 
in  Wyoming — having  explored  the  western  slopes  in  1842, 

Charles  Wilkes  (1798-1877),  naval  officer  and  explorer,  had  just  completed 
a  long  voyage  which  had  begun  in  Aug.  1838  and  had  taken  him  to  the 
Antarctic,  certain  islands  of  the  Pacific,  and  the  northwest  coast  of  North 
America.  Benton's  interest  in  Oregon  makes  him  eager  to  extend  Wilkes' 
coastal  observations  into  the  interior. 


57.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  City  March  11th  1843 
My  dear  Sir, 

Your  favor  of  the  27th  with  the  enclosure  came  safely  to  hand.  I 
think  that  it  would  be  unjust  to  you  were  I  to  write  a  preface  to  the 
catalogue  of  plants  and  would  be  assuming  for  myself  a  knowledge 
that  I  do  not  possess.  I  claim  no  other  credit  than  what  may  be  due 
to  having  collected  them  under  circumstances  of  considerable  hard- 
ship and  privation.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  river  to  the  Red 
buttes,  I  had  with  me  a  number  of  carts  which  afforded  means  to 
transport  the  plants  conveniently,  but  from  that  place  our  examina- 
tion of  the  country  was  made  on  horseback.  To  accomplish  the  ex- 
ploration on  which  I  had  been  sent  required  very  rapid  movements 
and  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  give  to  the  plants  the  time  necessary  to 
arrange  them  properly.  We  were  in  a  savage  and  inhospitable  coun- 
try, sometimes  annoyed  by  the  Indians  and  frequently  in  great  dis- 
tress from  want  of  provisions,  and  when  you  join  to  these  things  the 

i6i 


various  duties  which  were  constantly  claiming  my  attention,  you 
will  readily  make  an  allowance  for  the  bad  condition  of  the  collec- 
tion I  sent  you.  It  was  made  under  very  unfavorable  circumstances, 
and  in  the  intervals  of  very  pressing  duties. 

Casting  your  eye  on  the  small  sketch  I  sent  you,  you  will  see  that 
our  line  of  road  is  generally  along  the  bottoms  of  the  Kansas  tribu- 
taries and  sometimes  over  the  upper  prairies.  The  soil  of  the  river 
bottoms  is  always  rich,  and  generally  well  timbered,  though  the 
whole  region  is  what  is  called  a  prairie  country.  The  upper  prairies 
are  an  immense  deposit  of  sand  and  gravel,  covered  with  a  good  and 
very  generally  a  rich  soil.  Along  the  road  on  reaching  the  little 
stream  called  Sandy  creek,  the  soil  became  more  sandy.  The  geologi- 
cal formation  of  this  position  is  lime — and  sand-stone.  The  Amorpha 
was  the  characteristic  plant,  in  many  places  being  as  abundant  as  the 
grass.  From  its  mouth  to  the  junction  of  its  main  forks  the  valley  of 
the  Platte  generally  about  four  miles  broad  is  rich  and  well  timbered, 
covered  with  luxuriant  grasses.  The  large  purple  Aster  ?  was  here  the 
characteristic,  flourishing  in  great  magnificence.  From  the  junction 
to  Laramie's  fork  the  country  may  be  called  a  sandy  one;  the  valley 
of  the  stream  is  without  timber,  but  still  the  grasses  are  fine  and 
plants  abundant.  On  our  return  in  September  the  whole  valley 
looked  like  a  garden.  It  was  yellow  with  fields  of  sunflower  which 
was  the  characteristic. 

Between  these  two  main  forks  of  the  Platte,  and  from  the  junction 
to  Laramie's  fork  the  formation  consists  of  a  calcareous  marl,  a  soft 
earthy  limestone,  and  a  granitic  sandstone.  In  the  region  traversed 
from  Laramie's  fork  to  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  water  river  the  soil 
is  generally  sandy,  the  formation  consisting  of  a  variety  of  sandstones 
— yellow  and  gray  sandstones  a  red  argillaceous  sandstone  with  com- 
pact gypsum  or  alabaster  and  fine  conglomerates.  The  Sweet  Water 
valley  is  a  sandy  plain  about  120  miles  long,  and  generally  about  5 
miles  broad,  bounded  by  ranges  of  granitic  mountains  between 
which  the  valley  formation  consists  near  the  Devil's  gate  of  a  grayish 
micaceous  sandstone  and  fine  grained  conglomerate  with  a  fine 
grained  white  sandstone.  Proceeding  twenty  or  thirty  miles  up  the 
valley  we  find  a  white  sandstone  alternating  with  white  clay  and 
white  clayey  sandstone.  At  our  encampment  of  August  5th-6th  we 
found  a  fine  white  clayey  sandstone — a  coarse  sandstone  or  pud- 
dingstone  and  white  calcareous  sandstone.  A  few  miles  to  the  west 


162 


of  that  position  we  reached  a  point  where  the  sandstone  reposed  im- 
mediately upon  the  granite,  which  thenceforward  along  our  line  of 
route  alternated  with  a  compact  clay  slate. 

We  crossed  the  dividing  ridge  on  the  8th  of  August  &  found  the 
soil  of  the  plains  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  on  the  western  side  to 
be  sandy,  being  the  decomposition  of  the  neighbouring  granite 
mountains.  From  Laramie's  fork  to  this  point  Artemesia  was  the 
characteristic  plant,  occupying  the  place  of  the  grasses,  and  filling 
the  air  with  its  odour  of  camphor  and  spirits  of  turpentine.  On  the 
morning  of  the  10th  we  entered  the  defile  of  the  Wind  river  moun- 
tains. 

I  hope  that  what  I  have  hastily  said  above  will  enable  you  to  write 
a  short  preface  to  the  catalogue  and  I  would  be  exceedingly  indebted 
to  you  if  you  could  send  it  with  the  2d  part  of  the  catalogue  in  order 
that  I  may  introduce  it  into  the  report.  The  work  is  now  in  the 
hands  of  the  printer  but  I  will  delay  its  publication  some  days  until 
I  hear  from  you.  Should  you  find  it  proper  to  refer  in  your  preface 
to  heights  above  the  sea  I  will  fill  up  any  blanks  you  may  leave.  In 
a  few  days  I  will  reply  to  some  other  points  in  your  letter  and  in  the 
mean  time  beg  you  to  let  me  hear  from  you  as  soon  as  will  suit  your 
convenience,  as  I  am  exceedingly  pressed  &  should  be  very  sorry  to 
publish  the  catalogue  incomplete.  Very  truly  yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont, 
I  had  just  written  the  above  when  I  received  your  note  with  the 
2d  part  of  the  catalogue.  I  am  sure  I  need  not  tell  you  how  much 
gratified  I  am  that  it  has  arrived  in  time  for  publication.  I  will  put  it 
to-day  in  the  hands  of  the  printer  and  the  proofs  shall  be  forwarded 
to  you  at  Princeton  as  soon  as  they  are  struck.  This  letter  is  already 
very  long  &  I  will  not  add  to  it  by  expressing  my  thanks  of  which 
you  are  I  know  assured.  Believe  me  yours  truly, 

J.  C.  Fremont. 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (NNNBG).  While  many  letters  from  JCF  to  Torrey  have 
survived,  we  have  only  a  printed  excerpt  of  a  letter  from  Torrey  to  JCF 
(July  1848).  Torrey 's  27  Feb.  suggestion  that  Fremont  write  the  preface  to  the 
catalogue  of  plants  was  a  courteous  one,  but  as  the  document  indicates,  JCF 
refused.  Torrey  did  write  the  preface,  presented  with  his  catalogue  as  an 
addendum  to  the  report  of  the  expedition  (our  Doc.  No.  61). 


I 


163 


58.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topographical  Engineers 
Washington  March  14th  1843 
Sir 

I  have  to  inform  you  that  a  requisition  has  been  this  day  made  in 
your  favor  for  twelve  hundred  Dollars. 

You  will  please  pay  Mr.  Nicollet  the  amount  that  may  be  due  him 
for  services  to  the  10th  inst.  inclusive,  on  which  day  his  employment 
terminated. 

You  will  repair  to  Baltimore  in  order  to  adjust  Mr.  Nicollet's  ac- 
count and  to  receive  from  him  the  public  instruments  which  he  has 
to  return  for  which  you  will  please  to  give  the  customary  receipts, 
after  which  you  will  return  to  this  place  and  report.  Very  Respect- 
fully Your  Obt.  Servt. 

J.  J.  Abert 
Col.  C.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,LS,  6:161). 


59.  Thomas  H.  Benton  to  Fremont 

Washington  City,  March  20.  1843. 
Dear  Sir, 

In  the  very  important  expedition  which  you  are  fitting  out  to  the 
region  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  to  complete  the  gap  in 
the  Surveys  between  the  South  Pass  and  the  head  of  tidewater  in  the 
Columbia,  the  officer  in  command  has  to  appear  to  the  Indians  as 
the  representative  of  the  government,  and  not  as  the  officer  of  a  bu- 
reau. To  them  he  represents  the  government,  and  as  such  he  must 
make  presents,  or  bring  both  himself  and  his  government  into  con- 
tempt. This  is  an  expense  which  belongs  to  the  Indian  department 
more  than  to  the  Topographical  bureau,  and  I  repeat  to  you,  as  my 
opinion,  that  you  should  apply  to  the  Secretary  at  War  for  a  part  of 
the  contingencies,  or  a  part  of  the  appropriations  for  Indian  presents, 
for  this  object.  There  is  no  danger  of  getting  too  much,  and  one  or 

164 


two  thousand  dollars  would  be  quite  small  for  the  number  of  In- 
dians who  will  be  encountered.  On  any  account,  both  as  it  concerns 
the  success  of  the  expedition,  the  respectability  of  the  government, 
and  the  future  friendship  of  the  Indians,  it  is  indispensable  that  the 
officer  who  carries  the  flag  of  the  U.  States  into  these  remote  regions, 
should  carry  presents.  All  savages  expect  them:  they  even  demand 
them;  and  they  feel  contempt  &  resentment  if  disappointed.  Respect- 
fully, Sir  Yr.  Obt.  Servant, 

Thomas  H.  Benton 

ALS,  RC  (CSmH). 


60.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  City  March  21st  1843 


My  dear  Sir, 


Yours  of  the  14th  with  the  enclosure  came  safely  to  hand  yester- 
day— I  beg  you  to  accept  my  thanks  for  the  preface  to  your  Cata- 
logue, which  I  find  exceedingly  interesting,  &  am  happy  to  say  is  in 
time  for  the  printer.  Herewith  I  send  you  a  corrected  sheet,  which 
has  still  some  errors,  but  I  think  you  will  find  it  more  free  from 
them,  than  proof  sheets  generally  are.  The  printer  desires  me  to  say, 
that  having  no  Greek  characters,  he  has  supplied  their  place  for  the 
moment  with  the  usual  letters,  but  has  sent  to  Baltimore  for  them, 
and  you  will  find  them  inserted  in  the  final  sheets,  together  with 
some  other  omissions.  It  will  give  me  pleasure  to  furnish  you  with 
the  number  of  Catalogues  you  mention. 

There  was  an  error  in  my  letter,  relative  to  the  fact  of  the  clay 
slate  alternating  with  granite;  it  should  have  been  mica  slate,  which 
is  one  of  the  predominant  rocks  in  that  quarter.  In  Equisetum  ar- 
vense  of  the  Catalogue,  is  "arvense"  right?  Among  the  plants  col- 
lected on  the  Sandy  river,  (branch  of  the  Colorado)  on  our  return, 
was  a  portion  of  an  artemisia  (?)  can  you  tell  me  if  this  is  an  arte- 
misia,  &  if  so,  what  one?  I  am  anxious  to  know,  as  this  is  the  plant 
with  the  odour  of  camphor  &  spirits  of  turpentine,  which  I  men- 
tioned in  my  letter  as  being  highly  characteristic.  There  is  one  plant 
among  the  collection  of  which  I  am  very  desirous  to  know  the 

165 


name;  I  met  with  in  fields  in  full  bloom  filling  the  air  with  fra- 
grance, &  almost  entirely  covering  the  bottom  land  of  the  South 
Fork  of  the  Platte,  within  some  twenty  miles  of  the  Rocky  Mts.  &  at 
an  elevation  of  between  5,  and  6000  feet.  I  did  not  see  it  again  until  I 
reached  the  valley  of  the  Sweetwater  near  the  Devils  Gate,  which  is 
at  about  the  same  elevation.  I  cannot  describe  it  to  you  from  mem- 
ory, although  I  should  recognize  it  immediately.  It  is  about  the  size 
of  the  amorpha  &  the  predominant  colour  of  the  flowers,  is  the  pur- 
ple hue  of  the  amorpha.  One  perfectly  white,  which  is  however  seen 
but  rarely,  amid  the  fields  of  purple  flowers,  and  one  of  a  light  blue, 
almost  as  frequent  as  the  purple  colour.  Is  it  "Lupinus  leucophyllus" 
or  is  it  perhaps  an  amorpha  ? 

I  have  purposely  delayed  replying  to  an  occasional  enquiry  in 
some  of  your  letters  as  to  whether  or  not  I  should  be  able  to  take 
with  me  a  botanist,  in  order  that  I  might  be  in  possession  of  infor- 
mation, which  would  enable  me  to  give  you  a  definite  answer.  I  find 
for  various  strong  reasons,  that  I  shall  not  be  able  to  do  so,  but  still  I 
contemplate  doing  something  for  your  favourite  science.  Can  we  not 
do  something  together  ?  Is  it  not  customary  sometimes  for  collectors, 
unskilled  as  myself  to  publish  their  plants  in  partnership  with,  &  un- 
der the  shadow  of,  the  standard  names  in  the  science.  I  do  not  know 
if  I  am  asking  too  much,  but  if  I  am  not,  I  should  be  glad  if  you 
would  write  to  me  on  the  subject,  and  I  think  something  good 
may  be  done.^  The  following  is  a  brief  outline  of  my  expedition  for 
the  present  year.  I  shall  leave  this  city  about  the  5th  of  April  &  be- 
fore the  1st  of  May  shall  be  beyond  the  western  frontier  of  Missouri. 
I  propose  crossing  the  mountains  to  the  South  of  the  Great  Pass, — 
range  along  their  western  bases, — visit  the  mountainous  region  of 
the  Flathead  country,  probably  go  as  far  down  as  Fort  Vancouver, 
and  return  by  the  heads  of  the  Missouri.  This  you  will  see,  aflfords  a 
fine  range  for  botanical  researches,  and  should  my  veiws  meet  your 
approbation,  a  few  words  of  instruction  from  you  would  be  very 
beneficial  to  me.  By  the  time  you  return  the  proof  sheets  of  the 
Catalogue  the  whole  report  will  be  ready  for  the  Binder. 

I  should  be  glad  to  hear  from  you  on  the  subject  of  this  letter,  &  in 
the  meanwhile  I  am  Very  truly  yours, 

J.  Charles  Fremont 

ALS-JBF,RC(NHi). 

1.  JCF's  reluctance  to  take  professional  scientists  on  his  expeditions,  and 

i66 


his  desire  to  collaborate  with  men  such  as  Torrey  in  describing  and  naming 
his  collections,  eventually  became  a  topic  of  comment.  Asa  Gray  wrote  to 
Torrey  on  8  March  1845  that  he  believed  JCF  wanted  all  the  scientific  glory. 
"He  ought  to  be  above  it,  and  to  aim  higher;  but  indeed,  it  is  hardly  to  be 
expected"  (NNNBG). 


167 


61.  Report  of  the  First  Expedition,  1843 

Editorial  note:  This  account  was  first  published  in  1843  as  Senate 
Doc.  243,  27th  Cong.,  3rd  sess.,  under  the  title:  A  Report  of  an  Ex- 
ploration of  the  Country  Lying  between  the  Missouri  River  and  the 
Roc\y  Mountains  on  the  Line  of  the  Kansas  and  Great  Platte  Rivers. 
It  was  speedily  sent  to  the  Senate  after  JCF  had  completed  the  man- 
uscript, for  it  had  been  long  delayed.  JCF  presented  it  to  Colonel 
Abert  on  1  March  1843,  and  on  the  following  day  it  went  directly 
to  Secretary  of  War  John  Canfield  Spencer.  In  a  covering  letter, 
Abert  explained  that  the  delay  "was  not  owing  to  any  want  of  in- 
dustry on  the  part  of  Lieut.  Fremont,  but  to  the  great  amount  of 
matter  which  had  to  be  introduced  in  the  report  and  the  many  cal- 
culations which  had  to  be  made,  of  the  astronomical  &  barometrical 
observations,  the  necessary  labor  on  these  accounts  has  delayed  the 
completion  of  the  report  until  today"  (DNA-77,  LS,  6:141). 

On  2  March  the  Senate  ordered  the  report  to  be  printed,  and  the 
next  day  a  resolution  provided  that  "nine  hundred  additional  copies 
be  furnished  for  the  use  of  the  Senate,  and  one  hundred  copies  for 
the  use  of  the  Topographical  Bureau."  It  was  later  to  be  combined 
with  the  report  of  the  1843-44  expedition  and  widely  distributed  by 
trade  publishers. 

"I  write  more  easily  by  dictation,"  JCF  said  many  years  later,  and 
".  .  .  therefore  the  labor  of  amanuensis,  commencing  at  this  early 
time,  has  remained  with  Mrs.  Fremont"  (memoirs,  163).  We  have 
already  noted  that  Jessie  did  indeed  produce  a  great  number  of  the 
documents  attributed  to  her  husband.  There  is,  however,  a  surviving 
manuscript  draft  of  this  report  in  the  National  Archives  (DNA-77) 
which  is  much  less  a  joint  effort  than  JCF's  comment  would  indi- 
cate. The  first  nineteen  sheets  are  in  Jessie's  hand,  and  the  remainder 
in  JCF's  with  some  corrections  and  refinements  in  Jessie's.  Where 

i68 


the  manuscript  draft  differs  materially  from  the  printed  version,  we 
indicate  the  difference  in  a  note. 

In  a  brief  explanation  to  the  reader  at  the  beginning  of  the  report, 
JCF  explains:  "For  the  Mineralogical  Character  of  the  Rocks  men- 
tioned in  the  course  of  the  following  report,  I  am  indebted  to  Mr. 
James  D.  Dana,  of  the  late  Exploring  Expedition  to  the  South  Seas. 
The  Collection  of  Plants  made  during  my  exploration  was  placed  in 
the  hands  of  Dr.  John  Torrey,  who  prepared  the  catalogue  which 
is  annexed  to  the  narrative."  James  Dwight  Dana  (1813-95)  had 
recently  returned  from  serving  with  Charles  Wilkes.  He  was  a  pro- 
fessor at  Yale,  author  of  standard  works  in  geology,  and  editor  of 
the  American  Journal  of  Science. 

Despite  our  usual  adherence  to  the  policy  of  presenting  documents 
in  chronological  order,  we  have  placed  this  report  slightly  out  of 
order  so  that  it  may  appear  at  the  end  of  this  division  of  the  volume. 

REPORT 

Washington,  March  1,  1843 
To  CoL.  J.  J.  Abert, 

Chief  of  the  Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers: 

Sir:  Agreeably  to  your  orders  to  explore  and  report  upon  the 
country  between  the  frontiers  of  Missouri  and  the  South  Pass  in  the 
Rocky  mountains,  and  on  the  line  of  the  Kansas  and  Great  Platte 
rivers,  I  sat  out  from  Washington  city  on  the  2d  day  of  May,  1842, 
arrived  at  St.  Louis,  by  way  of  New  York,  the  22d  of  May,  where 
the  necessary  preparations  were  completed,  and  the  expedition  com- 
menced. I  proceeded  in  a  steamboat  to  Chouteau's  Landing,  about 
400  miles  by  water  from  St.  Louis,  and  near  the  mouth  of  the  Kan- 
sas river,  whence  we  proceeded  twelve  miles  to  Mr.  Cyprian  Chou- 
teau's trading  house,  where  we  completed  our  final  arrangements 
for  the  expedition. 

Bad  weather,  which  interfered  with  astronomical  observations, 
delayed  us  several  days  in  the  early  part  of  June  at  this  post,  which  is 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Kansas  river,  about  ten  miles  above  the 
mouth,  and  six  beyond  the  western  boundary  of  Missouri.  The  sky 
cleared  off  at  length,  and  we  were  enabled  to  determine  our  position, 
in  longitude  94°  39^  16",  and  latitude  39°  5'  57".  The  elevation  above 
the  sea  is  about  700  feet.  Our  camp,  in  the  meantime,  presented  an 

169 


animated  and  busding  scene.  All  were  busily  occupied  in  completing 
the  necessary  arrangements  for  our  campaign  in  the  wilderness,  and 
profiting  by  this  short  delay  on  the  verge  of  civilization,  to  provide 
ourselves  with  all  the  little  essentials  to  comfort  in  the  nomadic  life 
we  were  to  lead  for  the  ensuing  summer  months.  Gradually,  how- 
ever, everything,  the  materiel  of  the  camp,  men,  horses,  and  even 
mules,  settled  into  its  place,  and  by  the  10th  we  were  ready  to  depart; 
but,  before  we  mount  our  horses,  I  will  give  a  short  description  of 
the  party  with  which  I  performed  this  service. 

I  had  collected  in  the  neighborhood  of  St.  Louis  twenty-one  men, 
principally  Creole  and  Canadian  voyageurs,  who  had  become  famil- 
iar with  prairie  life  in  the  service  of  the  fur  companies  in  the  Indian 
country.  Mr.  Charles  Preuss,  a  native  of  Germany,  was  my  assistant 
in  the  topographical  part  of  the  survey.  L.  Maxwell,  of  Kaskaskia, 
had  been  engaged  as  hunter,  and  Christopher  Carson,  more  famil- 
iarly known,  for  his  exploits  in  the  mountains,  as  Kit  Carson,  was 
our  guide.  The  persons  engaged  in  St.  Louis,  were: 

Clement  Lambert,  J.  B.  L'Esperance,  J.  B.  Lefevre,  Benjamin 
Potra,  Louis  Gouin,  J.  B.  Dumes,  Basil  Lajeunesse,  Francois  Tessier, 
Benjamin  Cadotte,  Joseph  Clement,  Daniel  Simonds,  Leonard  Benoit, 
Michel  Morly,  Baptiste  Bernier,  Honore  Ayot,  Francois  Latulippe, 
Frangois  Badeau,  Louis  Menard,  Joseph  Ruelle,  Moise  Chardonnais, 
Auguste  Janisse,  Raphael  Proue. 

In  addition  to  these,  Henry  Brant,  son  of  Col.  J.  B.  Brant,  of  St. 
Louis,  a  young  man  of  nineteen  years  of  age,  and  Randolph,  a  lively 
boy  of  twelve,  son  of  the  Hon.  Thomas  H.  Benton,  accompanied  me, 
for  the  development  of  mind  and  body  which  such  an  expedition 
would  give.^  We  were  all  well  armed  and  mounted,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  eight  men,  who  conducted  as  many  carts,  in  which  were 
packed  our  stores,  with  the  baggage  and  instruments,  and  which 
were  each  drawn  by  two  mules.  A  few  loose  horses,  and  four  oxen, 
which  had  been  added  to  our  stock  of  provisions,  completed  the 


1.  All  the  men  on  the  expedition  have  been  mentioned  earlier,  and  some 
biographical  information — usually  scant — has  been  presented.  In  the  present 
listing,  JCF  does  not  mention  Registe  Larente,  who  went  only  as  far  as  Fort 
John  near  the  mouth  of  the  Laramie;  Osea  Harmiyo  [Jose  Armijo],  hired  at 
Fort  St.  Vrain  on  9  July;  or  a  man  named  Descoteaux  who  is  not  mentioned 
here  or  in  the  vouchers  but  is  named  later  in  the  report.  Latulippe  did  not 
start  with  the  expedition,  but  was  encountered  with  some  comrades  on  29 
June,  laden  with  robes,  and  was  hired  on  the  spot.  He  had  been  with  Nicollet 
and  JCF  on  the  1839  expedition. 

170 


train.  We  sat  out  on  the  morning  of  the  10th,  which  happened  to  be 
Friday,  a  circumstance  which  our  men  did  not  fail  to  remember  and 
recall  during  the  hardships  and  vexations  of  the  ensuing  journey. 
Mr.  Cyprian  Chouteau,  to  whose  kindness  during  our  stay  at  his 
house  we  were  much  indebted,  accompanied  us  several  miles  on  our 
way,  until  we  met  an  Indian,  whom  he  had  engaged  to  conduct  us 
on  the  first  thirty  or  forty  miles,  where  he  was  to  consign  us  to  the 
ocean  of  prairie,  which,  we  were  told,  stretched  without  interrup- 
tion almost  to  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

From  the  belt  of  wood  which  borders  the  Kanzas,  in  which  we 
had  passed  several  good-looking  Indian  farms,  we  suddenly  emerged 
on  the  prairies,  which  received  us  at  the  outset  with  some  of  their 
striking  characteristics;  for  here  and  there  rode  an  Indian,  and  but 
a  few  miles  distant,  heavy  clouds  of  smoke  were  rolling  before  the 
fire.  In  about  ten  miles  we  reached  the  Santa  Fe  road,  along  which 
we  continued  for  a  short  time,  and  encamped  early  on  a  small 
stream,  having  travelled  about  eleven  miles.'  During  our  journey. 


2.  JCF  is  reconnoitering,  not  trailblazing,  and  there  is  little  need  to  docu- 
ment every  mile  of  his  progress  along  an  already  established  trail.  When 
he  reaches  the  South  Pass  area  and  strikes  out  to  the  north  on  his  own,  we 
shall  feel  justified  in  following  him  more  closely.  A  word  is  required  about 
our  approach  to  the  identification  of  topographical  features,  campsites,  and 
other  matters  of  geographical  interest.  With  an  expedition  as  early  as,  say, 
the  Lewis  and  Clark  expedition  of  1804-6,  where  every  bend  of  the  river 
brought  the  men  into  view  of  hitherto  unknown  and  unnamed  features  of  the 
land,  the  places  where  they  camped  and  the  names  they  devised  are  of  great 
historical  importance.  But  JCF,  half  a  century  later,  is  no  pathfinder — never 
personally  claimed  to  be — and  his  eyes  seldom  fall  upon  a  mountain  range  or 
a  lake  not  known  by  an  earlier  traveler.  This  is  particularly  true  when  he  is 
on  the  Oregon  Trail. 

While  we  do  not  feel  compelled  to  annotate  every  river,  lake,  or  other 
feature  described  by  JCF,  we  do  it  frequently  and  perhaps  not  always  con- 
sistently. We  do  it  to  keep  track  of  the  expedition  on  the  map,  to  identify 
landmarks  which  have  special  interest,  and  to  provide  modern  nomenclature 
for  certain  place-names  which  have  changed  through  the  years.  We  are  more 
attentive  to  this  responsibility  when  JCF  is  not  following  well-worn  trails.  For 
detailed  information  on  the  early  trails,  see  George  R.  Stewart,  The  California 
Trail  (New  York,  1962),  Jay  Monaghan,  The  Overland  Trail  (Indianapolis, 
1947),  Irene  D.  Paden,  The  Wa\e  of  the  Prairie  Schooner  (New  York,  1943), 
and  the  "Introductions"  by  Dale  L.  Morgan  to  The  Overland  Diary  of 
James  A.  Pritchard  from  Kentucky  to  Calfornia  in  1849  (Denver,  Colo., 
1959)  and  by  David  Potter  to  Trail  to  California  (New  Haven,  Conn.,  1945). 
A  recent  and  authoritative  work,  but  following  the  trail  along  the  Platte  and 
North  Platte  only  as  far  as  Fort  Laramie,  is  Merrill  J.  .Mattes,  The  Great 
Platte  River  Road  (Lincoln,  Nebr.,  1969). 

171 


it  was  the  customary  practice  to  encamp  an  hour  or  two  before  sun- 
set, when  the  carts  were  disposed  so  as  to  form  a  sort  of  barricade 
around  a  circle  some  eighty  yards  in  diameter.  The  tents  were 
pitched,  and  the  horses  hobbled  and  turned  loose  to  graze;  and  but 
a  few  minutes  elapsed  before  the  cooks  of  the  messes,  of  which  there 
were  four,  were  busily  engaged  in  preparing  the  evening  meal.  At 
night  fall,  the  horses,  mules,  and  oxen,  were  driven  in,  and  picketted 
— that  is,  secured  by  a  halter,  of  which  one  end  was  tied  to  a  small 
steel-shod  picket,  and  driven  into  the  ground;  the  halter  being 
twenty  or  thirty  feet  long,  which  enabled  them  to  obtain  a  little 
food  during  the  night.  When  we  had  reached  a  part  of  the  country 
where  such  a  precaution  became  necessary,  the  carts  being  regularly 
arranged  for  defending  the  camp,  guard  was  mounted  at  eight 
o'clock,  consisting  of  three  men,  who  were  relieved  every  two  hours; 
the  morning  watch  being  horse  guard  for  the  day.  At  daybreak,  the 
camp  was  roused,  the  animals  turned  loose  to  graze,  and  breakfast 
generally  over  between  six  and  seven  o'clock,  when  we  resumed  our 
march,  making  regularly  a  halt  at  noon  for  one  or  two  hours.  Such 
was  usually  the  order  of  the  day,  except  when  accident  of  country 
forced  a  variation,  which,  however,  happened  but  rarely.  We  travelled 
the  next  day  along  the  Santa  Fe  road,  which  we  left  in  the  after- 
noon, and  encamped  late  in  the  evening  on  a  small  creek,  called  by 
the  Indians  Mishmagwi.  Just  as  we  arrived  at  camp,  one  of  the 
horses  set  off  at  full  speed  on  his  return,  and  was  followed  by  others. 
Several  men  were  sent  in  pursuit,  and  returned  with  the  fugitives 
about  midnight,  with  the  exception  of  one  man,  who  did  not  make 
his  appearance  until  morning.  He  had  lost  his  way  in  the  darkness 
of  the  night,  and  slept  on  the  prairie.  Shortly  after  midnight  it  be- 
gan to  rain  heavily,  and  as  our  tents  were  of  light  and  thin  cloth, 
they  offered  but  little  obstruction  to  rain;  we  were  all  well  soaked, 
and  glad  when  morning  came.  We  had  a  rainy  march  on  the  12th, 
but  the  weather  grew  fine  as  the  day  advanced.  We  encamped  in  a 
remarkably  beautiful  situation  on  the  Kanzas  BluiTs,  which  com- 
manded a  fine  view  of  the  river  valley,  here  from  three  to  four  miles 
wide.  The  central  portion  was  occupied  by  a  broad  belt  of  heavy 
timber,  and  nearer  the  hills  the  prairies  were  of  the  richest  verdure. 
One  of  the  oxen  was  killed  here  for  food. 
We  reached  the  ford  of  the  Kanzas^  late  in  the  afternoon  of  the 


3.  One   of   the   well-known    fording    places    on    the    Kansas    River,    in    the 
vicinity  of  present  Topeka.  JCF's  route  thus  far  has  been  the  traditional  one, 

172 


14th,  where  the  river  was  two  hundred  and  thirty  yards  wide,  and 
commenced  immediately  preparations  for  crossing.  I  had  expected 
to  find  the  river  fordable,  but  it  had  been  swollen  by  the  late  rains, 
and  was  sweeping  by  with  an  angry  current,  yellow  and  turbid  as 
the  Missouri.  Up  to  this  point,  the  road  we  had  travelled  was  a  re- 
markably fine  one,  well  beaten,  and  level,  the  usual  road  of  a  prairie 
country.  By  our  route  the  ford  was  one  hundred  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Kanzas  river.  Several  mounted  men  led  the  way  into 
the  stream  to  swim  across.  The  animals  were  driven  in  after  them, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  all  had  reached  the  opposite  bank  in  safety, 
with  the  exception  of  the  oxen,  which  swam  some  distance  down 
the  river,  and,  returning  to  the  right  bank  were  not  got  over  until 
the  next  morning.  In  the  meantime,  the  carts  had  been  unloaded 
and  dismantled,  and  an  India-rubber  boat,  which  I  had  brought 
with  me  for  the  survey  of  the  Platte  river,  placed  in  the  water.  The 
boat  was  twenty  feet  long,  and  five  broad,  and  on  it  was  placed  the 
body  and  wheels  of  a  cart,  with  the  load  belonging  to  it,  and  three 
men  with  paddles. 

The  velocity  of  the  current,  and  the  inconvenient  freight,  ren- 
dering it  difficult  to  be  managed,  Basil  Lajeunesse,  one  of  our  best 
swimmers,  took  in  his  teeth  a  line  attached  to  the  boat,  and  swam 
ahead  in  order  to  reach  a  footing  as  soon  as  possible,  and  assist  in 
drawing  her  over.  In  this  manner,  six  passages  had  been  successfully 
made,  and  as  many  carts  with  their  contents,  and  a  greater  portion 
of  the  party  deposited  on  the  left  bank ;  but  night  was  drawing  near, 
and  in  our  anxiety  to  have  all  over  before  darkness  closed  in,  I  put 
upon  the  boat  the  remaining  two  carts,  with  their  accompanying 
load.  The  man  at  the  helm  was  timid  in  water,  and  in  his  alarm 


starting  out  along  the  Santa  Fe  Trail  to  avoid  some  bad  crossings,  then  veer- 
ing northward  in  the  direction  of  the  Platte.  The  creek  he  calls  "Mishmagwi" 
may  be  Bull  Creek  or  Captain  Creek.  After  his  crossing  of  the  Kansas  he  will 
be  traveling  north  and  west,  across  northern  tributaries  of  the  Little  Blue, 
until  he  reaches  (Jrand  Island  at  the  Platte. 

The  hunter  who  visited  camp  on  the  evening  of  17  June  brought  news  of 
one  of  the  very  earliest  wagon  trains  to  journey  to  Oregon.  Dr.  Elijah  White 
(d.  1879),  of  New  York,  had  gone  to  the  Willamette  Valley  by  sea  in  1837, 
on  behalf  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church.  Returning  to  Washington, 
D.C.,  he  was  appointed  Indian  agent  with  the  understanding  that  he  was  to 
return  to  Oregon.  At  the  time  of  his  departure  he  was  anticipating  the  passage 
of  a  bill  authorizing  the  president  to  appoint  agents  for  the  territory  west  of 
Iowa.  (The  bill  did  not  pass  and  White's  appointment  failed,  but  this  was  not 
known  in  Oregon  until  the  fall  of  1843.) 

173 


capsized  the  boat.  Carts,  barrels,  boxes,  and  bales,  were  in  a  moment 
floating  down  the  current,  but  all  the  men  who  were  on  the  shore 
jumped  into  the  water,  without  stopping  to  think  if  they  could 
swim,  and  almost  every  thing,  even  heavy  articles,  such  as  guns  and 
lead,  were  recovered. 

Two  of  the  men  who  could  not  swim  came  nigh  being  drowned, 
and  all  the  sugar  belonging  to  one  of  the  messes  wasted  its  sweets  on 
the  muddy  waters;  but  our  heaviest  loss  was  a  bag  of  cofTee,  which 
contained  nearly  all  our  provision.  It  was  a  loss  which  none  but  a 
traveller  in  a  strange  and  inhospitable  country  can  appreciate;  and 
often  afterward,  when  excessive  toil  and  long  marching  had  over- 
come us  with  fatigue  and  weariness,  we  remembered  and  mourned 
over  our  loss  in  the  Kanzas.  Carson  and  Maxwell  had  been  much 
in  the  water  yesterday,  and  both  in  consequence  were  taken  ill.  The 
former  continuing  so,  I  remained  in  camp.  A  number  of  Kanzas 
Indians  visited  us  to-day.  Going  up  to  one  of  the  groups  who  were 
scattered  among  the  trees,  I  found  one  sitting  on  the  ground  among 
some  of  the  men,  gravely  and  fluently  speaking  French,  with  as 
much  facility  and  as  little  embarrassment  as  any  of  my  own  party, 
who  were  nearly  all  of  French  origin. 

On  all  sides  was  heard  the  strange  language  of  his  own  people, 
wild,  and  harmonizing  well  with  their  appearance.  I  listened  to  him 
for  some  time  with  feelings  of  strange  curiosity  and  interest.  He  was 
now  apparently  thirty-five  years  of  age;  and,  on  inquiry,  I  learned 
that  he  had  been  at  St.  Louis  when  a  boy,  and  there  had  learned  the 
French  language.  From  one  of  the  Indian  women  I  obtained  a  fine 
cow  and  calf  in  exchange  for  a  yoke  of  oxen.  Several  of  them 
brought  us  vegetables,  pumpkins,  onions,  beans,  and  lettuce.  One  of 
them  brought  butter,  and  from  a  half-breed  near  the  river  I  had  the 
good  fortune  to  obtain  some  twenty  or  thirty  pounds  of  coffee.  The 
dense  timber  in  which  we  had  encamped  interfered  with  astronomi- 
cal observations,  and  our  wet  and  damaged  stores  required  exposure 
to  the  sun.  Accordingly,  the  tents  were  struck  early  the  next  morn- 
ing, and,  leaving  camp  at  six  o'clock,  we  moved  about  seven  miles 
up  the  river  to  a  handsome,  open  prairie  some  twenty  feet  above  the 
water,  where  the  fine  grass  afforded  a  luxurious  repast  to  our  horses. 

During  the  day  we  occupied  ourselves  in  making  astronomical 
observations,  in  order  to  lay  down  the  country  to  this  place,  it  being 
our  custom  to  keep  up  our  map  regularly  in  the  field,  which  we 
found  attended  with  many  advantages.  The  men  were  kept  busy  in 

174 


drying  the  provisions,  painting  the  cart  covers,  and  otherwise  com- 
pleting our  equipage,  until  the  afternoon,  v^hen  powder  was  distrib- 
uted to  them,  and  they  spent  some  hours  in  firing  at  a  mark.  We 
were  now  fairly  in  the  Indian  country,  and  it  began  to  be  time  to 
prepare  for  the  chances  of  the  wilderness. 

Friday,  ]une  17. — The  weather  yesterday  had  not  permitted  us  to 
make  the  observations  I  was  desirous  to  obtain  here,  and  I  therefore 
did  not  move  to-day.  The  people  continued  their  target  firing.  In  the 
steep  bank  of  the  river  here  were  nests  of  innumerable  swallows, 
into  one  of  which  a  large  prairie  snake  had  got  about  half  his  body, 
and  was  occupied  in  eating  the  young  birds.  The  old  ones  were  fly- 
ing about  in  great  distress,  darting  at  him,  and  vainly  endeavoring 
to  drive  him  ofT.  A  shot  wounded  him,  and,  being  killed,  he  was  cut 
open,  and  eighteen  young  swallows  were  found  in  his  body.  A  sud- 
den storm  that  burst  upon  us  in  the  afternoon  cleared  away  in  a 
brilliant  sunset,  followed  by  a  clear  night,  which  enabled  us  to  deter- 
mine our  position  in  longitude  96°  10'  06",  and  in  latitude  39°  06'  40". 

A  party  of  emigrants  to  the  Columbia  river,  under  the  charge  of 
Dr.  White,  an  agent  of  the  Government  in  Oregon  Territory,  were 
about  three  weeks  in  advance  of  us.  They  consisted  of  men,  women, 
and  children.  There  were  sixty-four  men  and  sixteen  or  seventeen 
families.  They  had  a  considerable  number  of  cattle,  and  were  trans- 
porting their  household  furniture  in  large  heavy  wagons.  I  under- 
stood that  there  had  been  much  sickness  among  them,  and  that  they 
had  lost  several  children.  One  of  the  party  who  had  lost  his  child, 
and  whose  wife  was  very  ill,  had  left  them  about  one  hundred  miles 
hence  on  the  prairies;  and  as  a  hunter  who  had  accompanied  them 
visited  our  camp  this  evening,  we  availed  ourselves  of  his  return  to 
the  States  to  write  to  our  friends. 

The  morning  of  the  18th  was  very  unpleasant.  A  fine  rain  was  fall- 
ing, with  cold  wind  from  the  north,  and  mists  made  the  river  hills 
look  dark  and  gloomy.  We  left  our  camp  at  seven,  journeying  along 
the  foot  of  the  hills  which  border  the  Kansas  valley,  generally  about 
three  miles  wide,  and  extremely  rich.  We  halted  for  dinner,  after  a 
march  of  about  thirteen  miles,  on  the  banks  of  one  of  the  many  little 
tributaries  to  the  Kansas,  which  look  like  trenches  in  the  prairie, 
and  are  usually  well  timbered.  After  crossing  this  stream,  I  rode  off 
some  miles  to  the  left,  attracted  by  the  appearance  of  a  cluster  of  huts 
near  the  mouth  of  the  [Little]  Vermillion.  It  was  a  large  but  de- 
serted Kansas  village,  scattered  in  an  open  wood  along  the  margin 

175 


of  the  stream,  on  a  spot  chosen  with  the  customary  Indian  fondness 
for  beauty  and  scenery.  The  Pawnees  had  attacked  it  in  the  early 
spring.  Some  of  the  houses  were  burnt,  and  others  blackened  with 
smoke,  and  weeds  were  already  getting  possession  of  the  cleared 
places.  Riding  up  the  [Little]  Vermillion  river,  I  reached  the  ford 
in  time  to  meet  the  carts,  and  crossing,  encamped  on  its  western 
side.  The  weather  continued  cool,  the  thermometer  being  this  evening 
as  low  as  49°,  but  the  night  was  sufficiently  clear  for  astronomical 
observations,  which  placed  us  in  longitude  96°  36'  40",  and  latitude 
39°  15'  19".^  At  sunset,  the  barometer  was  at  28,845,  thermometer  64°. 

We  breakfasted  the  next  morning  at  half  past  five,  and  left  our 
encampment  early.  The  morning  was  cool,  the  thermometer  being  at 
45°.  Quitting  the  river  bottom,  the  road  ran  along  the  uplands,  over 
a  rolling  country,  generally  in  view  of  the  Kansas,  from  eight  to 
twelve  miles  distant.  Many  large  boulders  of  a  very  compact  sand- 
stone of  various  shades  of  red,  some  of  them  four  or  five  tons  in 
weight,  were  scattered  along  the  hills;  and  many  beautiful  plants 
in  flower,  among  which  the  amorpha  canescens  was  a  characteristic, 
enlivened  the  green  of  the  prairie.  At  the  heads  of  the  ravines  I 
remarked  occasionally  thickets  of  salix  longifolia,  the  most  com- 
mon willow  of  the  country.  We  travelled  nineteen  miles,  and  pitched 
our  tents  at  evening  on  the  head  waters  of  a  small  creek,  now 
nearly  dry,  but  having  in  its  bed  several  fine  springs.  The  barom- 
eter indicated  a  considerable  rise  in  the  country — here  about  fourteen 
hundred  feet  above  the  sea — and  the  increased  elevation  appeared 
already  to  have  some  slight  influence  upon  the  vegetation.  The 
night  was  cold,  with  a  heavy  dew,  the  thermometer  at  ten  stand- 
ing at  46°,  barometer  28,483.  Our  position  was  in  longitude  96° 
48'  05",  and  latitude  39°  30'  40". 

The  morning  of  the  20th  was  fine,  with  a  southerly  breeze  and  a 


4.  In  the  manuscript  draft,  the  longitude  is  the  same  as  that  given  here, 
but  in  the  1845  edition  it  is  changed  to  96°  04'  07".  Although  JCF's  latitudes 
remain  fairly  constant  in  the  various  versions,  the  longitudes — more  difficult 
to  fix — were  frequently  changed  by  later  findings  or  calculations.  In  a  note 
on  his  observations  written  after  his  1843-44  expedition,  and  placed  in  the 
1845  edition,  he  explains  that  his  earlier  longitudes  were  thrown  too  far  to  the 
westward  by  the  use  of  an  occultation  "which  experience  has  recently  shown 
to  be  deserving  of  little  comparative  confidence."  He  then  adjusted  all  these 
1842  longitudes  by  referring  them  chronometrically  to  those  established  in 
1843-44.  His  corrected  longitudes  usually  lie  to  the  west  of  modern  readings. 
The  readings  used  here  for  the  1842  expedition  will  be  those  first  published 
by  JCFindie  1843  report. 

176 


bright  sky,  and  at  7  o'clock  we  were  on  the  march.  The  country 
to-day  was  rather  more  broken,  rising  still,  and  covered  every  where 
with  fragments  of  siliceous  limestone,  particularly  on  the  summits, 
where  they  were  small,  and  thickly  strewed  as  pebbles  on  the  shore 
of  the  sea.  In  these  exposed  situations  grew  but  few  plants;  though, 
whenever  the  soil  was  good  and  protected  from  the  winds,  in  the 
creek  bottoms  and  ravines,  and  on  the  slopes,  they  flourished  abun- 
dantly; among  them,  the  amorpha'  still  retaining  its  characteristic 
place.  We  crossed,  at  10,  the  Big  Vermillion  [Black  Vermillion], 
which  has  a  rich  bottom  of  about  one  mile  in  breadth,  one  third  of 
which  is  occupied  by  timber.  Making  our  usual  halt  at  noon,  after 
a  day's  march  of  twenty-four  miles,  we  reached  the  Big  Blue,  and 
encamped  on  the  uplands  of  the  western  side,  near  a  small  creek, 
where  was  a  fine  large  spring  of  very  cold  water.  This  is  a  clear  and 
handsome  stream,  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  wide,  run- 
ning, with  a  rapid  current,  through  a  well-timbered  valley.  To-day 
antelope  were  seen  running  over  the  hills,  and  at  evening  Carson 
brought  us  a  fine  deer.  Long,  of  the  camp  97°  06'  58",  lat.  39°  45'  08". 
Thermometer  at  sunset  75°.  A  pleasant  southerly  breeze  and  fine 
morning  had  given  place  to  a  gale,  with  indications  of  bad  weather, 
when,  after  a  march  of  ten  miles,  we  halted  to  noon  on  a  small 
creek,  where  the  water  stood  in  deep  pools.  In  the  bank  of  the 
creek,  limestone  made  its  appearance  in  a  stratum  about  one  foot 
thick.  In  the  afternoon,  the  people  seemed  to  suffer  for  want  of 
water.  The  road  led  along  a  high  dry  ridge;  dark  lines  of  timber 
indicated  the  heads  of  streams  in  the  plains  below;  but  there  was  no 
water  near,  and  the  day  was  very  oppressive,  with  a  hot  wind,  and 
the  thermometer  at  90°.  Along  our  route,  the  amorpha  has  been  in 
very  abundant  but  variable  bloom:  in  some  places,  bending  be- 
neath the  weight  of  purple  clusters;  in  others,  without  a  flower. 
It  seems  to  love  best  the  sunny  slopes,  with  a  dark  soil  and  southern 
exposure.  Every  where  the  rose  is  met  with,  and  reminds  us  of 
cultivated  gardens  and  civilization.  It  is  scattered  over  the  prairies 
in  small  bouquets,  and,  when  glittering  in  the  dews  and  waving  in 
the  pleasant  breeze  of  the  early  morning,  is  the  most  beautiful  of  the 
prairie  flowers.  The  artemisia,  absinthe,  or  prairie  sage,  as  it  is 
variously  called,  is  increasing  in  size,  and  glitters  like  silver,  as  the 


5.  The  manuscript  draft  reads,  "among  them  the  Coreopsis  palmata  began  to 
cluster  in  larger  yellow  patches  but  the  Amorpha  still  retained  its  character- 
istic place." 

177 


southern  breeze  turns  up  its  leaves  to  the  sun.  All  these  plants  have 
their  insect  inhabitants,  variously  colored;  taking  generally  the  hue 
of  the  flower  on  which  they  live.  The  artemisia  has  its  small  fly  ac- 
companying it  through  every  change  of  elevation  and  latitude;  and 
wherever  I  have  seen  the  asclepias  tuherosa,  I  have  always  remarked, 
too,  on  the  flower,  a  large  butterfly,  so  nearly  resembling  it  in  color, 
as  to  be  distinguishable  at  a  little  distance  only  by  the  motion  of  its 
wings.*'  Travelling  on  the  fresh  traces  of  the  Oregon  emigrants  re- 
lieves a  little  the  loneliness  of  the  road ;  and  to-night,  after  a  march 
of  twenty-two  miles,  we  halted  on  a  small  creek,  which  had  been 
one  of  their  encampments.  As  we  advance  westward,  the  soil  appears 
to  be  getting  more  sandy,  and  the  surface  rock,  an  erratic  deposite 
of  sand  and  gravel,  rests  here  on  a  bed  of  coarse  yellow  and  gray 
and  very  friable  sandstone.  Evening  closed  over  with  rain  and  its 
usual  attendant,  hordes  of  mosquitoes,  with  which  we  were  annoyed 
for  the  first  time. 

]une  11. — We  enjoyed  at  breakfast  this  morning  a  luxury  very 
unusual  in  this  country,  in  a  cup  of  excellent  coffee,  with  cream 
from  our  cow.  Being  milked  at  night,  cream  was  thus  had  in  the 
morning.  Our  mid-day  halt  was  at  Wyeth's  creek,  in  the  bed  of 
which,  were  numerous  boulders  of  dark  ferruginous  sandstone, 
mingled  with  others  of  the  red  sandstone  already  mentioned.  Here 
a  pack  of  cards,  lying  loose  on  the  grass,  marked  an  encampment  of 
our  Oregon  emigrants;  and  it  was  at  the  close  of  the  day  when  we 
made  our  bivouac  in  the  midst  of  some  well-timbered  ravines  near 
the  Little  Blue,  twenty-four  miles  from  our  camp  of  the  preceding 
night.  Crossing  the  next  morning  a  number  of  handsome  creeks, 
with  clear  water  and  sandy  beds,  we  reached,  at  10,  a  very  beautiful 
wooded  stream,  about  thirty-five  feet  wide,  called  Sandy  creek,  and, 
sometimes,  as  the  Otoes  frequently  winter  there,  the  Otoe  fork.  The 
country  has  become  very  sandy,  and  the  plants  less  varied  and  abun- 
dant, with  the  exception  of  the  amorpha,  which  rivals  the  grass  in 
quantity,  though  not  so  forward  as  it  has  been  found  to  the  eastward. 


6.  In  the  manuscript  draft,  a  blank  is  left  for  A.  tuherosa,  and  "butterfly" 
reads  "red  butterfly."  Inserted  after  the  next  sentence:  "This  party  consists  of 
above  100  persons,  with  cattle,  horses,  carts,  &c."  Throughout  the  remainder 
of  the  manuscript  version,  many  of  the  scientific  names  of  plants  are  missing, 
JCF  having  left  blanks  to  be  filled  in  after  Torrey  had  made  the  necessary 
determinations.  All  of  the  plants  collected  by  JCF  are  catalogued,  beginning  on 
p.  290,  and  we  make  few  comments  on  them  in  the  notes. 

178 


At  the  Big  Trees,  where  we  had  intended  to  noon,  no  water  was 
to  be  found.  The  bed  of  the  Httle  creek  was  perfectly  dry,  and  on  the 
adjacent  sandy  bottom,  cacti  [prickly  pear],  for  the  first  time,  made 
their  appearance.  We  made  here  a  short  delay  in  search  of  water; 
and,  after  a  hard  day's  march  of  twenty-eight  miles,  encamped,  at 
five  o'clock,  on  the  Little  Blue,  where  our  arrival  made  a  scene  of 
the  Arabian  desert.  As  fast  as  they  arrived,  men  and  horses  rushed 
into  the  stream,  where  they  bathed  and  drank  together  in  common 
enjoyment.  We  were  now  in  the  range  of  the  Pawnees,  who  were 
accustomed  to  infest  this  part  of  the  country,  stealing  horses  from 
companies  on  their  way  to  the  mountains,  and,  when  in  sufficient 
force  openly  attacking  and  plundering  them,  and  subjecting  them 
to  various  kinds  of  insult.  For  the  first  time,  therefore,  guard  was 
mounted  to  night.  Our  route  the  next  morning  lay  up  the  valley, 
which,  bordered  by  hills  with  graceful  slopes,  looked  uncommonly 
green  and  beautiful.  The  stream  was  about  fifty  feet  wide  and  three 
or  four  deep,  fringed  by  cotton  wood  and  willow,  with  frequent 
groves  of  oak  tenanted  by  flocks  of  turkeys.  Game  here,  too,  made  its 
appearance  in  greater  plenty.  Elk  were  frequently  seen  on  the  hills, 
and  now  and  then  an  antelope  bounded  across  our  path,  or  a  deer 
broke  from  the  groves.  The  road  in  the  afternoon  was  over  the  up- 
per prairies,  several  miles  from  the  river,  and  we  encamped  at  sunset 
on  one  of  its  small  tributaries,  where  an  abundance  of  prele  {equi- 
setum)  afforded  fine  forage  to  our  tired  animals.  We  had  travelled 
thirty-one  miles.  A  heavy  bank  of  black  clouds  in  the  west  came  on 
us  in  a  storm  between  nine  and  ten,  preceded  by  a  violent  wind.  The 
rain  fell  in  such  torrents  that  it  was  difficult  to  breathe  facing  the 
wind,  the  thunder  rolled  incessantly,  and  the  whole  sky  was  trem- 
ulous with  lightning;  now  and  then  illuminated  by  a  blinding 
flash,  succeeded  by  pitchy  darkness.  Carson  had  the  watch  from  ten 
to  midnight,  and  to  him  had  been  assigned  our  young  compagnons 
de  voyage,  Messrs.  Brant  and  R.  Benton.  This  was  their  first  night  on 
guard,  and  such  an  introduction  did  not  augur  very  auspiciously  of 
the  pleasures  of  the  expedition.  Many  things  conspired  to  render 
their  situation  uncomfortable;  stories  of  desperate  and  bloody  Indian 
fights  were  rife  in  the  camp;  our  position  was  badly  chosen,  sur- 
rounded on  all  sides  by  timbered  hollows,  and  occupying  an  area  of 
several  hundred  feet,  so  that  necessarily  the  guards  were  far  apart; 
and  now  and  then  I  could  hear  Randolph,  as  if  relieved  by  the  sound 
of  a  voice  in  the  darkness,  calling  out  to  the  sergeant  of  the  guard,  to 

179 


I 


direct  his  attention  to  some  imaginary  alarm;  but  they  stood  it  out, 
and  took  their  turn  regularly  afterward. 

The  next  morning  we  had  a  specimen  of  the  false  alarms  to  which 
all  parties  in  these  wild  regions  are  subject.  Proceeding  up  the  valley, 
objects  were  seen  on  the  opposite  hills,  which  disappeared  before  a 
glass  could  be  brought  to  bear  upon  them.  A  man^  who  was  a  short 
distance  in  the  rear  came  spurring  up  in  great  haste,  shouting  In- 
dians! Indians!  He  had  been  near  enough  to  see  and  count  them, 
according  to  his  report,  and  had  made  out  twenty-seven.  I  im- 
mediately halted,  arms  were  examined  and  put  in  order;  the  usual 
preparations  made;  and  Kit  Carson,  springing  upon  one  of  the  hunt- 
ing horses,  crossed  the  river,  and  galloped  off  into  the  opposite  prai- 
ries to  obtain  some  certain  intelligence  of  their  movements. 

Mounted  on  a  fine  horse,  without  a  saddle,  and  scouring  bare- 
headed over  the  prairies.  Kit  was  one  of  the  finest  pictures  of  a 
horseman  I  have  ever  seen.  A  short  time  enabled  him  to  discover 
that  the  Indian  war  party  of  twenty-seven  consisted  of  six  elk,  who 
had  been  gazing  curiously  at  our  caravan  as  it  passed  by,  and  were 
now  scampering  off  at  full  speed.  This  was  our  first  alarm,  and  its 
excitement  broke  agreeably  on  the  monotony  of  the  day.  At  our 
noon  halt,  the  men  were  exercised  at  a  target ;  and  in  the  evening  we 
pitched  our  tents  at  a  Pawnee  encampment  of  last  July.  They  had 
apparently  killed  buffalo  here,  as  many  bones  were  lying  about,  and 
the  frames  where  the  hides  had  been  stretched  were  yet  standing. 
The  road  of  the  day  had  kept  the  valley,  which  is  sometimes  rich 
and  well  timbered,  though  the  country  is  generally  sandy.  Mingled 
with  the  usual  plants,  a  thistle  {carduus  leucographus)  had  for  the 
last  day  or  two  made  its  appearance;  and  along  the  river  bottom, 
tradescantia  {virginica)  and  milk  plant  {asclepias  syriaca*)  in  con- 
siderable quantities.^ 

*  "This  plant  is  very  odoriferous,  and  in  Canada  charms  the  traveller,  espe- 
cially when  passing  through  woods  in  the  evening.  The  French  there  eat  the 
tender  shoots  in  the  spring,  as  we  do  asparagus.  The  natives  make  a  sugar 
of  the  flowers,  gathering  them  in  the  morning  when  they  are  covered  with 
dew,  and  collect  the  cotton  from  the  pods  to  fill  their  beds.  On  account  of  the 
silkiness  of  this  cotton,  Parkinson  calls  the  plant  Virginian  silk."^ — Loudon's 
Encyclopedia  of  Plants.  The  Sioux  Indians  of  the  Upper  Platte  eat  the  young 
pods  of  this  plant,  boiling  them  with  the  meat  of  the  buffalo. 


7.  PREuss,  13,  says  this  man  was  Henry  Brant. 

8.  At  this  point  in  the  text,  the  manuscript  draft  contains  the  following  de- 
leted paragraphs: 

i8o 


Our  march  to-day  had  been  twenty-one  miles,  and  the  astronomi- 
cal observations  gave  us  a  chronometric  longitude  of  98°  54' 07",  and 
latitude  40°  26'  50".  We  w^ere  moving  forward  at  seven  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  in  about  five  miles  reached  a  fork  of  the  Blue,  where  the 
road  leaves  that  river,  and  crosses  over  to  the  Platte.  No  water  was  to 
be  found  on  the  dividing  ridge,  and  the  casks  were  filled  and  the 
animals  here  allowed  a  short  repose.  The  road  led  across  a  high  and 
level  prairie  ridge,  where  were  but  few  plants,  and  those  principally 
thistle  {carduus  leucographus),  and  a  kind  of  dwarf  artemisia.  Ante- 
lope were  seen  frequently  during  the  morning,  which  was  very 
stormy.  Squalls  of  rain,  with  thunder  and  lightning,  were  around  us 
in  every  direction;  and  while  we  were  enveloped  in  one  of  them,  a 
flash,  which  seemed  to  scorch  our  eyes  as  it  passed,  struck  in  the 
prairie  within  a  few  hundred  feet,  sending  up  a  column  of  dust. 

Crossing  on  the  way  several  Pawnee  roads  to  the  Arkansas,  we 
reached,  in  about  twenty-one  miles  from  our  halt  on  the  Blue,  what 
is  called  the  coast  of  the  Nebraska,  or  Platte  river.  This  had  seemed 
in  the  distance  a  range  of  high  and  broken  hills,  but  on  a  nearer  ap- 
proach were  found  to  be  elevations  of  forty  to  sixty  feet,  into  which 
the  wind  had  worked  the  sand.  They  were  covered  with  the  usual 
fine  grasses  of  the  country,  and  bordered  the  eastern  side  of  the 
ridge  on  a  breadth  of  about  two  miles.  Change  of  soil  and  country 
appeared  here  to  have  produced  some  change  in  the  vegetation. 
Cacti  were  numerous,  and  all  the  plants  of  the  region  appeared  to 
flourish  among  the  warm  hills.  Among  them  the  amorpha,  in  full 
bloom,  was  remarkable  for  its  large  and  luxuriant  purple  clusters. 
From  the  foot  of  the  coast,  a  distance  of  two  miles  across  the  level 


"Our  cook  was  very  dilatory  &  I  had  been  obliged  to  give  him  an  assistant. 
He  thought  rather  that  men  lived  to  eat  than  that  they  ate  to  live,  had  no  idea 
of  the  value  of  time  &  was  never  known  to  hurry  except  when  eating  an 
omelette  souffle  which  was  a  dish  he  said  that  couldn't  bear  to  wait. 

"Descouteaux,  the  man  I  had  given,  was  an  excellent  cook  &  though  but 
a  prairie  artist  one  on  whom  the  mantle  of  Ade  [?]  had  fallen  most  becom- 
ingly. They  did  not  agree  very  well  &  this  evening  a  professional  dispute 
broke  into  an  open  fight,  with  which  I  did  not  interfere  as  it  was  conducted 
with  their  natural  weapons,  frying-pans  &  gridirons.  Unwilling  to  fatigue  and 
annoy  the  men  by  restraining  their  natural  freedom  in  the  ettiquette  of  small 
observances,  I  had  determined  to  enforce  only  those  points  of  discipline  which 
really  regarded  our  preservation  in  a  remote  country  &  the  success  of  the  Ex- 
pedition &  so  long  as  in  their  disputes  they  had  no  recourse  to  arms  I  fol- 
lowed the  custom  of  the  country  &  in  no  wise  interfered  with  their  amuse- 
ments." 

i8i 


bottom  brought  us  to  our  encampment  on  the  shore  of  the  river, 
about  twenty  miles  below  the  head  of  Grand  island,  which  lay  ex- 
tended before  us,  covered  with  dense  and  heavy  woods.  From  the 
mouth  of  the  Kansas,  according  to  our  reckoning,  we  had  travelled 
three  hundred  and  twenty-eight  miles;  and  the  geological  formation 
of  the  country  we  had  passed  over  consisted  of  lime  and  sandstone, 
covered  by  the  same  erratic  deposite  of  sand  and  gravel  which  forms 
the  surface  rock  of  the  prairies  between  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi 
rivers;  except  in  some  occasional  limestone  boulders,  I  had  met  with 
no  fossils.  The  elevation  of  the  Platte  valley  above  the  sea  is  here 
about  two  thousand  feet.  The  astronomical  observations  of  the  night 
placed  us  in  longitude  99°  17  M'\  latitude  40°  41'  06''. 

]une  27. — The  animals  were  somewhat  fatigued  by  their  march  of 
yesterday,  and  after  a  short  journey  of  eighteen  miles  along  the  river 
bottom,  I  encamped  near  the  head  of  Grand  island,^  in  longitude, 
by  observation,  99°  37'  45",  latitude  40°  39'  32".  The  soil  here  was 
light  but  rich,  though  in  some  places  rather  sandy;  and,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  scattered  fringe  along  the  bank,  the  timber,  consisting 
principally  of  poplar  {populus  monilifera),  elm,  and  hackberry  {celtts 
crassifolid),  is  confined  almost  entirely  to  the  islands. 

]une  28. —  We  halted  to  noon  at  an  open  reach  of  the  river,  which 
occupies  rather  more  than  a  fourth  of  the  valley,  here  only  about 
four  miles  broad.  The  camp  had  been  disposed  with  the  usual  pre- 
caution, the  horses  grazing  at  a  little  distance,  attended  by  the  guard, 
and  we  were  all  sitting  quietly  at  our  dinner  on  the  grass,  when  sud- 
denly we  heard  the  startling  cry  "du  monde!"  In  an  instant,  every 
man's  weapon  was  in  his  hand,  the  horses  were  driven  in,  hobbled 
and  picketted,  and  horsemen  were  galloping  at  full  speed  in  the 
direction  of  the  new  comers,  screaming  and  yelling  with  the  wildest 
excitement.  "Get  ready,  my  lads!"  said  the  leader  of  the  approaching 
party  to  his  men,  when  our  wild-looking  horsemen  were  discovered 
bearing  down  upon  them;  "nous  allo?is  attraper  des  coups  de  ba- 
guette." They  proved  to  be  a  small  party  of  fourteen,  under  the 


9.  At  the  site  of  present  Grand  Island,  Nebr.  When  William  Marshall 
Anderson  camped  there  in  1834,  he  described  it  as  "the  longest  fresh  water 
river  island,  perhaps  in  America.  ...  It  commences  indeed,  God  knows 
where,  &  ends  God  knows  where"  (anderson,  204).  It  still  does,  as  the  chan- 
nelings  of  the  river  have  broken  it  into  many  segments.  Early  travelers  esti- 
mated its  length  at  anywhere  from  50  to  120  miles.  But  it  was  never  much 
more  than  a  band,  splitting  the  river  into  two  main  channels  (mattes,  194). 

182 


charge  of  a  man  named  John  Lee,  and  with  their  baggage  and  pro- 
visions strapped  to  their  backs,  were  making  their  way  on  foot  to  the 
frontier.  A  brief  account  of  their  fortunes  will  give  some  idea  of 
navigation  in  the  Nebraska.  Sixty  days  since  they  had  left  the 
mouth  of  Laramie's  fork,  some  three  hundred  miles  above,  in  barges 
laden  with  the  furs  of  the  American  Fur  Company.  They  started 
with  the  annual  flood,  and  drawing  but  nine  inches  water,  hoped  to 
make  a  speedy  and  prosperous  voyage  to  St,  Louis;  but,  after  a  lapse 
of  forty  days,  found  themselves  only  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles 
from  their  point  of  departure.  They  came  down  rapidly  as  far  as 
Scott's  blufTs,  where  their  difficulties  began.  Sometimes  they  came 
upon  places  where  the  water  was  spread  over  a  great  extent,  and 
here  they  toiled  from  morning  until  night,  endeavoring  to  drag  their 
boat  through  the  sands,  making  only  two  or  three  miles  in  as  many 
days.  Sometimes  they  would  enter  an  arm  of  the  river,  where  there 
appeared  a  fine  channel,  and  after  descending  prosperously  for  eight 
or  ten  miles,  would  come  suddenly  upon  dry  sands,  and  be  com- 
pelled to  return,  dragging  their  boat  for  days  against  the  rapid  cur- 
rent; and  at  others,  they  came  upon  places  where  the  water  lay  in 
holes,  and  getting  out  to  float  ofT  their  boat,  would  fall  into  water  up 
to  their  necks,  and  the  next  moment  tumble  over  against  a  sandbar. 
Discouraged  at  length,  and  finding  the  Platte  growing  every  day 
more  shallow,  they  discharged  the  principal  part  of  their  cargoes  one 
hundred  and  thirty  miles  l3elow  Fort  Laramie,  which  they  secured 
as  well  as  possible,  and  leaving  a  few  men  to  guard  them,  attempted 
to  continue  their  voyage,  laden  with  some  light  furs  and  their 
personal  baggage.  After  fifteen  or  twenty  days  more  struggling  in 
the  sands,  during  which  they  made  but  one  hundred  and  forty  miles, 
they  sunk  their  barges,  made  a  cache  of  their  remaining  furs  and 
property,  in  trees  on  the  bank,  and,  packing  on  his  back  what  each 
man  could  carry,  had  commenced,  the  day  before  we  encountered 
them,  their  journey  on  foot  to  St.  Louis. 

We  laughed  then  at  their  forlorn  and  vagabond  appearance,  and 
in  our  turn  a  month  or  two  afterwards  furnished  the  same  occasion 
for  merriment  to  others.^*'  Even  their  stock  of  tobacco,  that  sine  qua 


10.  Deleted  from  the  manuscript  draft  at  this  point:  "In  their  parti- 
coloured &  motley  dresses  one  was  strongly  reminded  of  Hogarth's  picture 
of  the  Beggars,  rendered  somewhat  dingy  by  time."  Among  the  forlorn  and 
vagabond  of  John  Lee's  party  was  Rufus  B.  Sage  (1817-93),  a  young  Con- 
necticut-born newspaperman.  He  had  gone   west  to  trap  and  trade  and   to 

183 


non  of  a  voyageur,  without  which  the  night  fire  is  gloomy,  was  en- 
tirely exhausted.  However,  we  shortened  their  homeward  journey  by 
a  small  supply  from  our  own  provision.  They  gave  us  the  welcome 
intelligence  that  the  Buffalo  were  abundant  some  two  days'  march 
in  advance,  and  made  us  a  present  of  some  choice  pieces,  which  were 
a  very  acceptable  change  from  our  salt  pork.  In  the  interchange  of 
news,  and  the  renewal  of  old  acquaintanceships,  we  found  where- 
withal to  fill  a  busy  hour,  then  we  mounted  our  horses,  and  they 
shouldered  their  packs,  and  we  shook  hands  and  parted.  Among 
them,  I  had  found  an  old  companion  on  the  northern  prairie,  a 
hardened  and  hardly  served  veteran  of  the  mountains,  who  had  been 
as  much  hacked  and  scarred  as  an  old  moustache  of  Napoleon's  "old 
guard."  He  flourished  in  the  sobriquet  of  La  Tulipe,^^  and  his  real 
name  I  never  knew.  Finding  that  he  was  going  to  the  States  only 
because  his  company  was  bound  in  that  direction,  and  that  he  was 
rather  more  willing  to  return  with  me,  I  took  him  again  into  my 
service.  We  travelled  this  day  but  seventeen  miles. 

At  our  evening  camp,  about  sunset,  three  figures  were  discovered 
approaching,  which  our  glasses  made  out  to  be  Indians.  They  proved 
to  be  Cheyennes,  two  men  and  a  boy  of  thirteen.  About  a  month 
since,  they  had  left  their  people  on  the  south  fork  of  the  river,  some 
three  hundred  miles  to  the  westward,  and  a  party  of  only  four  in 
number  had  been  to  the  Pawnee  villages  on  a  horse  stealing  excur- 
sion, from  which  they  were  returning  unsuccessful.  They  were  miser- 
ably mounted  on  wild  horses  from  the  Arkansas  plains,  and  had  no 
other  weapons  than  bows  and  long  spears;  and  had  they  been  dis- 
covered by  the  Pawnees,  could  not,  by  any  possibility,  have  escaped. 
They  were  mortified  by  their  ill  success,  and  said  the  Pawnees  were 
cowards  who  shut  up  their  horses  in  their  lodges  at  night.  I  invited 


gather  material  for  an  intended  book  which  he  pubhshed  in  1846  under  the 
title  Scenes  in  the  Roc\y  Mountains.  .  .  .  The  book  went  through  many 
printings.  The  first  edition  included  3,000  copies  paperbound  and  500  cloth- 
bound.  Some  copies  of  the  clothbound  volume  included  a  map  which  was  ap- 
parently adapted  from  Fremont's  Report.  Sage  married  in  1847  and  setded 
down  in  the  small  Connecticut  town  of  his  birth,  Upper  Middletown,  where 
he  farmed  until  his  death  (sage,  1:1-27,  2:41). 

11.  Francois  Latulippe,  previously  identified.  Perhaps  as  an  added  induce- 
ment, JCF  bought  twelve  buffalo  hides  from  him  (voucher  no.  23,  p.  152). 
According  to  Sage  a  pack  of  buffalo  robes  generally  embraced  ten  skins  and 
weighed  about  eighty  pounds  (sage,  2:19n).  Latulippe  was  paid  off  at  Fort 
John  on  the  return  trip. 

184 


them  to  supper  with  me,  and  Randolph  and  the  young  Cheyenne, 
who  had  been  eyeing  each  other  suspiciously  and  curiously,  soon  be- 
came intimate  friends.  After  supper  we  sat  down  on  the  grass,  and  I 
placed  a  sheet  of  paper  between  us,  on  which  they  traced  rudely,  but 
with  a  certain  degree  of  relative  truth,  the  watercourses  of  the  coun- 
try which  lay  between  us  and  their  villages,  and  of  which  I  desired 
to  have  some  information.  Their  companions,  they  told  us,  had 
taken  a  nearer  route  over  the  hills,  but  they  had  mounted  one  of  the 
summits  to  spy  out  the  country,  whence  they  had  caught  a  glimpse 
of  our  party,  and,  confident  of  good  treatment  at  the  hands  of  the 
whites,  hastened  to  join  company.  Latitude  of  the  camp  40°  39'  51". 

We  made  the  next  morning  sixteen  miles.  I  remarked  that  the 
ground  was  covered  in  many  places  with  an  efflorescence  of  salt,  and 
the  plants  were  not  numerous.  In  the  bottoms  was  frequently  seen 
tradescantia,  and  on  the  dry  benches  were  carduus,  cactus,  and  amor- 
pha.  A  high  wind  during  the  morning  had  increased  to  a  violent 
gale  from  the  northwest,  which  made  our  afternoon  ride  cold  and 
unpleasant.  We  had  the  welcome  sight  of  two  buffaloes  on  one  of 
the  large  islands;  and  encamped  at  a  clump  of  timber  about  seven 
miles  from  our  noon  halt,  after  a  day's  march  of  twenty-two  miles. 

The  air  was  keen  the  next  morning  at  sunrise,  the  thermometer 
standing  at  44°,  and  it  was  sufficiently  cold  to  make  overcoats  very 
comfortable.  A  few  miles  brought  us  into  the  midst  of  the  Buffalo, 
swarming  in  immense  numbers  over  the  plains,  where  they  had  left 
scarcely  a  blade  of  grass  standing.  Mr.  Preuss,  who  was  sketching  at 
a  little  distance  in  the  rear,  had  at  first  noted  them  as  large  groves  of 
timber.  In  the  sight  of  such  a  mass  of  life,  the  traveller  feels  a  strange 
emotion  of  grandeur.  We  had  heard  from  a  distance  a  dull  and  con- 
fused murmuring,  and  when  we  came  in  view  of  their  dark  masses, 
there  was  not  one  among  us  who  did  not  feel  his  heart  beat  quicker. 
It  was  the  early  part  of  the  day,  when  the  herds  are  feeding;  and 
every  where  they  were  in  motion.  Here  and  there  a  huge  old  bull 
was  rolling  in  the  grass,  and  clouds  of  dust  rose  in  the  air  from  vari- 
ous parts  of  the  bands,  each  the  scene  of  some  obstinate  fight.  Indians 
and  buffalo  make  the  poetry  and  life  of  the  prairie,  and  our  camp 
was  full  of  their  exhilaration.  In  place  of  the  quiet  monotony  of 
the  march,  relieved  only  by  the  cracking  of  the  whip,  and  an 
"avance  done!  enjant  de  garcel"  shouts  and  songs  resounded  from 
every  part  of  the  line,  and  our  evening  camp  was  always  the  com- 
mencement of  a  feast,  which  terminated  only  with  our  departure  on 

185 


the  following  morning.  At  any  time  of  the  night  might  be  seen 
pieces  of  the  most  delicate  and  choicest  meat,  roasting  en  appolas,  on 
sticks  around  the  fire,  and  the  guard  were  never  without  company. 
With  pleasant  weather  and  no  enemy  to  fear,  an  abundance  of  the 
most  excellent  meat,  and  no  scarcity  of  bread  or  tobacco,  they  were 
enjoying  the  oasis  of  a  voyageur's  life.  Three  cows  were  killed  to- 
day. Kit  Carson  had  shot  one,  and  was  continuing  the  chase  in  the 
midst  of  another  herd,  when  his  horse  fell  headlong,  but  sprang  up 
and  joined  the  flying  band.  Though  considerably  hurt,  he  had  the 
good  fortune  to  break  no  bones,  and  Maxwell,  who  was  mounted 
on  a  fleet  hunter,  captured  the  runaway  after  a  hard  chase.  He  was 
on  the  point  of  shooting  him  to  avoid  the  loss  of  his  bridle,  a  hand- 
somely mounted  Spanish  one,  when  he  found  that  his  horse  was  able 
to  come  up  with  him.  Animals  are  frequently  lost  in  this  way;  and 
it  is  necessary  to  keep  close  watch  over  them,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
buffalo,  in  the  midst  of  which  they  scour  oflf  to  the  plains,  and  are 
rarely  retaken.  One  of  our  mules  took  a  sudden  freak  into  his  head, 
and  joined  a  neighboring  band  to-day.  As  we  were  not  in  a  condi- 
tion to  lose  horses,  I  sent  several  men  in  pursuit  and  remained  in 
camp,  in  the  hope  of  recovering  him,  but  lost  the  afternoon  to  no 
purpose,  as  we  did  not  see  him  again.  Astronomical  observations 
placed  us  in  longitude  100°  38'  10",  latitude  40°  49'  55". 

]uly  1. — Along  our  road  to-day  the  prairie  bottom  was  more 
elevated  and  dry,  and  the  hills  which  border  the  right  side  of  the 
river  higher  and  more  broken  and  picturesque  in  the  outline.  The 
country  too  was  better  timbered.  As  we  were  riding  quietly  along 
the  bank,  a  grand  herd  of  buffalo,  some  seven  or  eight  hundred  in 
number,  came  crowding  up  from  the  river,  where  they  had  been  to 
drink,  and  commenced  crossing  the  plain  slowly,  eating  as  they 
went.  The  wind  was  favorable,  the  coolness  of  the  morning  invited 
to  exercise,  the  ground  was  apparently  good,  and  the  distance  across 
the  prairie,  two  or  three  miles,  gave  us  a  fine  opportunity  to  charge 
them  before  they  could  get  among  the  river  hills.  It  was  too  fine  a 
prospect  for  a  chase  to  be  lost,  and,  halting  for  a  few  moments,  the 
hunters  were  brought  up  and  saddled,  and  Kit  Carson,  Maxwell,  and 
I,  started  together.  They  were  now  somewhat  less  than  half  a  mile 
distant,  and  we  rode  easily  along  until  within  about  three  hundred 
yards,  when  a  sudden  agitation,  a  wavering  in  the  band,  and  a  gal- 
loping to  and  fro  of  some  which  were  scattered  along  the  skirts,  gave 
us  the  intimation  that  we  were  discovered.  We  started  together  at  a 

i86 


hand  gallop,  riding  steadily  abreast  of  each  other,  and  here  the  in- 
terest of  the  chase  became  so  engrossingly  intense,  that  we  were 
sensible  to  nothing  else/"  We  were  now  closing  upon  them  rapidly, 
and  the  front  of  the  mass  was  already  in  rapid  motion  for  the  hills, 
and  in  a  few  seconds  the  movement  had  communicated  itself  to  the 
whole  herd. 

A  crowd  of  bulls,  as  usual,  brought  up  the  rear,  and  every  now 
and  then  some  of  them  faced  about,  and  then  dashed  on  after  the 
band  a  short  distance,  and  turned  and  looked  again,  as  if  more  than 
half  inclined  to  stand  and  fight.  In  a  few  moments,  however,  dur- 
ing which  we  had  been  quickening  our  pace,  the  rout  was  universal, 
and  we  were  going  over  the  ground  like  a  hurricane.  When  at  about 
thirty  yards  we  gave  the  usual  shout,  the  hunter's  pas  de  charge, 
and  broke  into  the  herd.  We  entered  on  the  side,  the  mass  giving 
way  in  every  direction  in  their  heedless  course.  Many  of  the  bulls, 
less  active  and  less  fleet  than  the  cows,  paying  no  attention  to  the 
ground,  and  occupied  solely  with  the  hunter,  were  precipitated  to 
the  earth  with  great  force,  rolling  over  and  over  with  the  violence 
of  the  shock,  and  hardly  distinguishable  in  the  dust.  We  separated 
on  entering,  each  singling  out  his  game. 

My  horse  was  a  trained  hunter,  famous  in  the  west  under  the 
name  of  Proveau,  and  with  his  eyes  flashing,  and  the  foam  flying 
from  his  mouth,  sprang  on  after  the  cow  like  a  tiger.  In  a  few  mo- 
ments he  brought  me  alongside  of  her,  and  rising  in  the  stirrups,  I 
fired  at  the  distance  of  a  yard,  the  ball  entering  at  the  termination  of 
the  long  hair,  and  passing  near  the  heart.  She  fell  headlong  at  the 
report  of  the  gun,  and  checking  my  horse,  I  looked  around  for  my 
companions.  At  a  little  distance  Kit  was  on  the  ground,  engaged  in 
tying  his  horse  to  the  horns  of  a  cow  which  he  was  preparing  to  cut 
up.  Among  the  scattered  bands  at  some  distance  below  I  caught  a 
glimpse  of  Maxwell;  and  while  I  was  looking,  a  light  wreath  of 
white  smoke  curled  away  from  his  gun,  of  which  I  was  too  far  to 
hear  the  report.  Nearer,  and  between  me  and  the  hills,  towards 
which  they  were  directing  their  course,  was  the  body  of  the  herd, 
and  giving  my  horse  the  rein,  we  dashed  after  them.  A  thick  cloud 
of  dust  hung  upon  their  rear,  which  filled  my  mouth  and  eyes,  and 


12.  After  this  sentence,  a  prudent  deletion  in  the  manuscript  draft:  "Fifty 
Indians  might  have  charged  upon  us  and  not  been  seen  until  they  were  at 
our  bridles." 

187 


nearly  smothered  me.  In  the  midst  of  this  I  could  see  nothing,  and 
the  buffalo  were  not  distinguishable  until  within  thirty  feet.  They 
crowded  together  more  densely  still  as  I  came  upon  them,  and 
rushed  along  in  such  a  compact  body,  that  I  could  not  obtain  an 
entrance — the  horse  almost  leaping  upon  them.  In  a  few  moments 
the  mass  divided  to  the  right  and  left,  the  horns  clattering  with  a 
noise  heard  above  every  thing  else,  and  my  horse  darted  into  the 
opening.  Five  or  six  bulls  charged  on  us  as  we  dashed  along  the 
line,  but  were  left  far  behind,  and  singling  out  a  cow,  I  gave  her  my 
fire,  but  struck  too  high.  She  gave  a  tremendous  leap,  and  scoured  on 
swifter  than  before.  I  reined  up  my  horse,  and  the  band  swept  on 
like  a  torrent,  and  left  the  place  quiet  and  clear.^^  Our  chase  had  led 
us  into  dangerous  ground.  A  prairie-dog  village  so  thickly  settled 
that  there  were  three  or  four  holes  in  every  twenty  yards  square, 
occupied  the  whole  bottom  for  nearly  two  miles  in  length.  Looking 
around,  I  saw  only  one  of  the  hunters,  nearly  out  of  sight,  and  the 
long  dark  line  of  our  caravan  crawling  along,  three  or  four  miles 
distant.  After  a  march  of  twenty-four  miles,  we  encamped  at  night- 
fall, one  mile  and  a  half  above  the  lower  end  of  Brady's  island." 
The  breadth  of  this  arm  of  the  river  was  eight  hundred  and  eighty 
yards,  and  the  water  nowhere  two  feet  in  depth.  The  island  bears 
the  name  of  a  man  killed  on  this  spot  some  years  ago.  His  party  had 
encamped  here,  three  in  company,  and  one  of  the  number  went  ofT 
to  hunt,  leaving  Brady  and  his  companion  together.  These  two  had 
frequently  quarrelled,  and  on  the  hunter's  return  he  found  Brady 
dead,  and  was  told  that  he  had  shot  himself  accidentally.  He  was 
buried  here  on  the  bank,  but,  as  usual,  the  wolves  had  torn  him  out, 
and  some  human  bones  that  were  lying  on  the  ground  we  supposed 
were  his.  Troops  of  wolves  that  were  hanging  on  the  skirts  of  the 
buffalo,  kept  up  an  uninterrupted  howling  during  the  night,  ven- 
turing almost  into  camp.  In  the  morning,  they  were  sitting  at  a  short 
distance,  barking,  and  impatiently  waiting  our  departure,  to  fall 
upon  the  bones. 
July  2. — The  morning  was  cool  and  smoky.  Our  road  led  closer  to 


13.  Deleted  from  the  manuscript  draft  at  this  point:  "I  looked  around  & 
saw  only  one  of  the  hunters  nearly  out  of  sight,  &  the  long  dark  line  of  our 
caravan  crawling  slowly  along,  three  or  four  miles  distant." 

14.  Brady's  Island,  about  fifteen  miles  long,  lies  just  below  North  Platte, 
Nebr.  It  apparently  was  named  after  a  man  called  Brada  or  Brady,  variously 
reported  to  have  been  killed  in  1827  or  1833  (anderson,  190n). 

i88 


the  hills,  which  here  increased  in  elevation,  presenting  an  outline  of 
conical  peaks  three  hundred  to  five  hundred  feet  high.  Some  timber, 
apparently  pine,  grew  in  the  ravines,  and  streaks  of  clay  or  sand 
whiten  their  slopes.  We  crossed  during  the  morning  a  number  of 
hollows,  timbered  principally  with  box  elder  (acer  jiegundo),  poplar 
and  elm.  Brady's  island  is  well  wooded,  and  all  the  river  along 
which  our  road  led  to-day  may,  in  general,  be  called  tolerably  well 
timbered.  We  passed  near  an  encampment  of  the  Oregon  emigrants, 
where  they  appear  to  have  reposed  several  days.  A  variety  of  house- 
hold articles  were  scattered  about,  and  they  had  probably  disbur- 
dened themselves  here  of  many  things  not  absolutely  necessary.  I  had 
left  the  usual  road  before  the  mid-day  halt,  and  in  the  afternoon, 
having  sent  several  men  in  advance  to  reconnoitre,  marched  directly 
for  the  mouth  of  the  South  fork.  On  our  arrival,  the  horsemen  were 
sent  in  and  scattered  about  the  river  to  search  the  best  fording  places, 
and  the  carts  followed  immediately.  The  stream  is  here  divided  by 
an  island  into  two  channels.  The  southern  is  four  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  wide,  having  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  water  in  the  deepest 
places.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  dry  bars,  the  bed  of  the  river  is 
generally  quicksands,  in  which  the  carts  began  to  sink  rapidly  so 
soon  as  the  mules  halted,  so  that  it  was  necessary  to  keep  them  con- 
stantly in  motion. 

The  northern  channel,  2,250  feet  wide,  was  somewhat  deeper,  hav- 
ing frequently  three  feet  water  in  the  numerous  small  channels,  with 
a  bed  of  coarse  gravel.  The  whole  breadth  of  the  Nebraska  [Platte], 
immediately  below  the  junction,  is  5,350  feet.  All  our  equipage  had 
reached  the  left  bank  safely  at  six  o'clock,  having  to-day  made 
twenty  miles.  We  encamped  at  the  point  of  land  immediately  at  the 
junction  of  the  North  and  South  forks.  Between  the  streams  is  a 
low  rich  prairie,  extending  from  their  confluence  18  miles  west- 
wardly  to  the  bordering  hills,  where  it  is  5|  miles  wide.  It  is  covered 
with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  grass,  and  along  the  banks  is  a  slight  and 
scattered  fringe  of  cottonwood  and  willow.  In  the  buffalo  trails  and 
wallows,  I  remarked  saline  efflorescences,  to  which  a  rapid  evapora- 
tion in  the  great  heat  of  the  sun  probably  contributes,  as  the  soil  is 
entirely  unprotected  by  timber.  In  the  vicinity  of  these  places  there 
was  a  bluish  grass,  which  the  cattle  refuse  to  eat,  called  by  the 
voyageurs  "herbe  sake,"  (salt  grass).  The  latitude  of  the  junction  is 
41°  4'  47",  and  longitude  by  chronometer  and  lunar  distances, 
10r21'24".  The  elevation  above  the  sea  is  about  2,700  feet.  The 

189 


hunters  came  in  with  a  fat  cow,  and,  as  we  had  labored  hard,  we  en- 
joyed well  a  supper  of  roasted  ribs  and  boudins,  the  chej  d'ceuvre  of 
a  prairie  cook.  Mosquitoes  thronged  about  us  this  evening;  but,  by 
10  o'clock,  when  the  thermometer  had  fallen  to  47°,  they  had  all 
disappeared/^ 

]uly  3. — As  this  was  to  be  a  point  in  our  homeward  journey,  I 
made  a  cache  (a  term  used  in  all  this  country  for  what  is  hidden  in 
the  ground)  of  a  barrel  of  pork.  It  was  impossible  to  conceal  such  a 
proceeding  from  the  sharp  eyes  of  our  Cheyenne  companions,  and  I 
therefore  told  them  to  go  and  see  what  it  was  they  were  burying. 
They  would  otherwise  have  not  failed  to  return  and  destroy  our 
cache,  in  expectation  of  some  rich  booty;  but  pork  they  dislike  and 
never  eat.  We  left  our  camp  at  9,  continuing  up  the  South  fork,  the 
prairie  bottom  affording  us  a  fair  road;  but  in  the  long  grass  we 
roused  myriads  of  mosquitoes  and  flies,  from  which  our  horses  suf- 
fered severely.  The  day  was  smoky,  with  a  pleasant  breeze  from,  the 
south,  and  the  plains  on  the  opposite  side  were  covered  with  bufiFalo. 
Having  travelled  twenty-five  miles  we  encamped  at  6  in  the  evening, 
and  the  men  were  sent  across  the  river  for  wood,  as  there  is  none 
here  on  the  left  bank.  Our  fires  were  partially  made  of  the  hois  de 
vache,  the  dry  excrement  of  the  bufTalo,  which  like  that  of  the  camel 
in  the  Arabian  deserts,  furnishes  to  the  traveller  a  very  good  sub- 
stitute for  wood,  burning  like  turf.  Wolves  in  great  numbers  sur- 
rounded us  during  the  night,  crossing  and  recrossing  from  the 
opposite  herds  to  our  camp,  and  howling  and  trotting  about  in  the 
river  until  morning. 

luly  4. — The  morning  was  very  smoky,  the  sun  shining  dimly  and 
red,  as  in  a  thick  fog.  The  camp  was  roused  with  a  salute  at  day- 
break, and  from  our  scanty  store  a  portion  of  what  our  Indian 
friends  called  the  "red  fire  water"  served  out  to  the  men.  While  we 
were  at  breakfast,  a  buffalo  calf  broke  through  the  camp,  followed 
by  a  couple  of  wolves.  In  its  fright,  it  had  probably  mistaken  us  for 
a  band  of  bufTalo.  The  wolves  were  obliged  to  make  a  circuit  around 
the  camp,  so  that  the  calf  got  a  little  the  start,  and  strained  every 
nerve  to  reach  a  large  herd  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  about  two  miles 
distant;  but  first  one  and  then  another  and  another  wolf  joined  in 
the  chase,  until  his  pursuers  amounted  to  twenty  or  thirty,  and  they 


15.  Here  the  manuscript  draft  carries  the  phrase,  "Characteristic  Plants,' 
but  none  are  named. 

190 


ran  him  down  before  he  could  reach  his  friends.  There  were  a  few 
bulls  near  the  place,  and  one  of  them  attacked  the  wolves  and  tried  to 
rescue  him;  but  was  driven  off  immediately,  and  the  little  animal  fell 
an  easy  prey,  half  devoured  before  he  was  dead.  We  watched  the 
chase  with  the  interest  always  felt  for  the  weak,  and  had  there  been 
a  saddled  horse  at  hand,  he  would  have  fared  better.  Leaving  camp, 
our  road  soon  approached  the  hills  in  which  strata  of  a  marl  like 
that  of  the  chimney  rock,  hereafter  described,  make  their  appear- 
ance. It  is  probably  of  this  rock  that  the  hills  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Platte,  a  little  below  the  junction,  are  composed,  and  which  are 
worked  by  the  winds  and  rains  into  sharp  peaks  and  cones,  giving 
them,  in  contrast  to  the  surrounding  level  region,  something  of  a 
picturesque  appearance.  We  crossed  this  morning  numerous  beds  of 
the  small  creeks  which,  in  the  time  of  rains  and  melting  snow,  pour 
down  from  the  ridge,  bringing  down  with  them  always  great  quan- 
tities of  sand  and  gravel,  which  have  gradually  raised  their  beds 
four  to  ten  feet  above  the  level  of  the  prairie  which  they  cross,  mak- 
ing each  one  of  them  a  miniature  Po.  Raised  in  this  way  above  the 
surrounding  prairie,  without  any  bank,  the  long  yellow  and  wind- 
ing line  of  their  beds  resembles  a  causeway  from  the  hills  to 
the  river.  Many  spots  on  the  prairie  are  yellow  with  sunflower 
{helianthus). 

As  we  were  riding  slowly  along  this  afternoon,  clouds  of  dust  in 
the  ravines  among  the  hills  to  the  right,  suddenly  attracted  our  at- 
tention, and  in  a  few  minutes  column  after  column  of  buffalo  came 
galloping  down,  making  directly  to  the  river.  By  the  time  the  lead- 
ing herds  had  reached  the  water,  the  prairie  was  darkened  with  the 
dense  masses.  Immediately  before  us,  when  the  bands  first  came 
down  into  the  valley,  stretched  an  unbroken  line,  the  head  of  which 
was  lost  among  the  river  hills  on  the  opposite  side,  and  still  they  poured 
down  from  the  ridge  on  our  right.  From  hill  to  hill  the  prairie  bot- 
tom was  certainly  not  less  than  two  miles  wide,  and  allowing  the 
animals  to  be  ten  feet  apart,  and  only  ten  in  a  line,  there  were  al- 
ready 11,000  in  view.  Some  idea  may  thus  be  formed  of  their  number 
when  they  had  occupied  the  whole  plain.  In  a  short  time  they  sur- 
rounded us  on  every  side,  extending  for  several  miles  in  the  rear,  and 
forward,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  leaving  around  us  as  we  ad- 
vanced, an  open  space  of  only  two  or  three  hundred  yards.  This 
movement  of  the  bufifalo  indicated  to  us  the  presence  of  Indians  on 
the  North  fork. 


191 


I  halted  earlier  than  usual,  about  forty  miles  from  the  junction, 
and  all  hands  were  soon  busily  engaged  in  preparing  a  feast  to  cele- 
brate the  day.  The  kindness  of  our  friends  at  St.  Louis  had  provided 
us  with  a  large  supply  of  excellent  preserves  and  rich  fruit  cake;  and 
when  these  were  added  to  a  macaroni  soup  and  variously  prepared 
dishes  of  the  choicest  buffalo  meat,  crowned  with  a  cup  of  coffee, 
and  enjoyed  with  prairie  appetite,  we  felt,  as  we  sat  in  barbaric 
luxury  around  our  smoking  supper  on  the  grass,  a  greater  sensation 
of  enjoyment  than  the  Roman  epicure  at  his  perfumed  feast.  But 
most  of  all  it  seemed  to  please  our  Indian  friends,  who  in  the  unre- 
strained enjoyment  of  the  moment,  demanded  to  know  if  our  "med- 
icine days  came  often."  No  restraint  was  exercised  at  the  hospitable 
board,  and,  to  the  great  delight  of  his  elders,  our  young  Indian  lad 
made  himself  extremely  drunk. 

Our  encampment  was  within  a  few  miles  of  the  place  where  the 
road  crosses  to  the  North  fork,  and  various  reasons  led  me  to  divide 
my  party  at  this  point.  The  North  fork  was  the  principal  object  of 
my  survey,  but  I  was  desirous  to  ascend  the  South  branch,  with  a 
view  of  obtaining  some  astronomical  positions,  and  determining  the 
mouths  of  its  tributaries  as  far  as  St.  Vrain's  fort,  estimated  to  be 
some  two  hundred  miles  further  up  the  river,  and  near  to  Long's 
peak.  There  I  hoped  to  obtain  some  mules,  which  I  found  would  be 
necessary  to  relieve  my  horses.  In  a  military  point  of  view,  I  was 
desirous  to  form  some  opinion  of  the  country  relative  to  the  estab- 
lishment of  posts  on  a  line  connecting  the  settlements  with  the 
South  pass  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  by  way  of  the  Arkansas,  the 
South  and  Laramie  forks  of  the  Platte.  Crossing  the  country  north- 
westwardly from  St.  Vrain's  fort,  to  the  American  company's  fort  at 
the  mouth  of  Laramie,  would  give  me  some  acquaintance  with  the 
affluents  which  head  in  the  mountains  between  the  two;  I  therefore 
determined  to  set  out  the  next  morning,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Preuss 
and  four  men.  Maxwell,  Bernier,  Ayot,  and  Basil  Lajeunesse.  Our 
Cheyennes,  whose  village  lay  up  this  river,  also  decided  to  accom- 
pany us.  The  party  I  left  in  charge  of  Clement  Lambert,  with  orders 
to  cross  to  the  North  fork ;  and  at  some  convenient  place,  near  to  the 
Coulee  des  Frenes  [Ash  Hollow],  make  a  cache  of  every  thing  not 
absolutely  necessary  to  the  further  progress  of  our  expedition.  From 
this  point,  using  the  most  guarded  precaution  in  his  march  through 
the  country,  he  was  to  proceed  to  the  American  [Fur]  company's  fort 
at  the  mouth  of  Laramie's  fork,  and  await  my  arrival,  which  would 

192 


be  prior  to  the  16th,  as  on  that  and  the  following  night  would  occur 
some  occultations  which  I  was  desirous  to  obtain  at  that  place. 

July  5. — Before  breakfast  all  was  ready.  We  had  one  led  horse  in 
addition  to  those  we  rode,  and  a  pack  mule,  destined  to  carry  our 
instruments,  provisions,  and  baggage;  the  last  two  articles  not  being 
of  very  great  weight.  The  instruments  consisted  of  a  sextant,  artifi- 
cial horizon,  &c.,  a  barometer,  spy  glass,  and  compass.  The  chronom- 
eter I  of  course  kept  on  my  person.  I  had  ordered  the  cook  to  put  up 
for  us  some  flour,  cofTee,  and  sugar,  and  our  rifles  were  to  furnish  the 
rest.  One  blanket,  in  addition  to  his  saddle  and  saddle  blanket,  fur- 
nished the  materials  for  each  man's  bed,  and  every  one  was  provided 
with  a  change  of  linen.  All  were  armed  with  rifles  or  double  bar- 
relled guns;  and,  in  addition  to  these,  Maxwell  and  myself  were  fur- 
nished with  excellent  pistols.  Thus  accoutred,  we  took  a  parting 
breakfast  with  our  friends,  and  set  forth. 

Our  journey  the  first  day  afforded  nothing  of  any  interest.  We 
shot  a  buffalo  toward  sunset,  and  having  obtained  some  meat  for  our 
evening  meal,  encamped  where  a  little  timber  afforded  us  the  means 
of  making  a  fire.  Having  disposed  our  meat  on  roasting  sticks,  we 
proceeded  to  unpack  our  bales  in  search  of  coffee  and  sugar,  and 
flour  for  bread.  With  the  exception  of  a  little  parched  coffee,  un- 
ground,  we  found  nothing.  Our  cook  had  neglected  to  put  it  up,  or 
it  had  been  somehow  forgotten.  Tired  and  hungry,  with  tough  bull 
meat  without  salt,  for  we  had  not  been  able  to  kill  a  cow,  and  a  little 
bitter  coffee,  we  sat  down  in  silence  to  our  miserable  fare,  a  very 
disconsolate  party;  for  yesterday's  feast  was  yet  fresh  in  our  mem- 
ories, and  this  was  our  first  brush  with  misfortune.  Each  man  took 
his  blanket,  and  laid  himself  down  silently;  for  the  worst  part  of 
these  mishaps  is,  that  they  make  people  ill-humored.  To-day  we  had 
travelled  about  thirty-six  miles. 

]uly  6. — Finding  that  our  present  excursion  would  be  attended 
with  considerable  hardship,  and  unwilling  to  expose  more  persons 
than  necessary,  I  determined  to  send  Mr.  Preuss  back  to  the  party. 
His  horse,  too,  appeared  in  no  condition  to  support  the  journey,  and 
accordingly,  after  breakfast,  he  took  the  road  across  the  hills  attended 
by  one  of  my  most  trusty  men,  Bernier.  The  ridge  between  the  rivers 
is  here  about  fifteen  miles  broad,  and  I  expected  he  would  probably 
strike  the  fork  near  their  evening  camp.  At  all  events,  he  would  not 
fail  to  find  their  trail  and  rejoin  them  the  next  day. 

We  continued  our  journey,  seven  in  number,  including  the  three 


b 


193 


Cheyennes.  Our  general  course  was  southwest,  up  the  valley  of  the 
river,  which  was  sandy,  bordered  on  the  northern  side  of  the  valley 
by  a  low  ridge,  and  on  the  south,  after  seven  or  eight  miles,  the  river 
hills  became  higher.  Six  miles  from  our  resting  place  we  crossed  the 
bed  of  a  considerable  stream,  now  entirely  dry,  a  bed  of  sand.  In  a 
grove  of  willows,  near  the  mouth,  were  the  remains  of  a  considerable 
fort,  constructed  of  trunks  of  large  trees.  It  was  apparently  very  old, 
and  had  probably  been  the  scene  of  some  hostile  encounter  among 
the  roving  tribes.  Its  solitude  formed  an  impressive  contrast  to  the 
picture  which  our  imaginations  involuntarily  drew  of  the  busy  scene 
which  had  been  enacted  here.  The  timber  appeared  to  have  been 
much  more  extensive  formerly  than  now.  There  were  but  few  trees, 
a  kind  of  long-leaved  willow,  standing;  and  numerous  trunks  of 
large  trees  were  scattered  about  on  the  ground.  In  many  similar 
places  I  had  occasion  to  remark  an  apparent  progressive  decay  in  the 
timber.  Ten  miles  farther  we  reached  the  mouth  of  Lodge  Pole 
creek,^^  a  clear  and  handsome  stream,  running  through  a  broad 
valley.  In  its  course  through  the  bottom  it  has  a  uniform  breadth  of 
twenty-two  feet,  and  six  inches  in  depth.  A  few  willows  on  the 
banks  strike  pleasantly  on  the  eye,  by  their  greenness,  in  the  midst  of 
the  hot  and  barren  sands. 

The  amor p ha  was  frequent  among  the  ravines,  but  the  sunflower 
{heUanthus)  was  the  characteristic;  and  flowers  of  deep  warm  colors 
seem  most  to  love  the  sandy  soil.  The  impression  of  the  country 
travelled  over  to-day  was  one  of  dry  and  barren  sands.  We  turned  in 
towards  the  river  at  noon,  and  gave  our  horses  two  hours  for  food 
and  rest.  I  had  no  other  thermometer  than  the  one  attached  to  the 
barometer,  which  stood  at  89°,  the  height  of  the  column  in  the 
barometer  being  26.235,  at  meridian.  The  sky  was  clear,  with  a  high 
wind  from  the  south.  At  2,  we  continued  our  journey;  the  wind  had 
moderated,  and  it  became  almost  unendurably  hot,  and  our  animals 
suffered  severely.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  the  wind  rose  sud- 
denly, and  blew  hard  from  the  southwest,  with  thunder  and  light- 
ning and  squalls  of  rain ;  these  were  blown  against  us  with  violence 
by  the  wind,  and,  halting,  we  turned  our  backs  to  the  storm  until  it 
blew  over.  Antelope  were  tolerably  frequent,  with  a  large  gray  hare; 
but  the  former  were  shy,  and  the  latter  hardly  worth  the  delay  of 


16.  Called  Pole  Creek  on  his  map,  but  now  Lodgepole  Creek,  entering  the 
South  Platte  from  the  north  at  Julesburg,  Colo. 

194 


stopping  to  shoot  them ;  so,  as  the  evening  drew  near,  we  again  had 
recourse  to  an  old  bull,  and  encamped  at  sunset  on  an  island  in  the 
Platte. 

We  ate  our  meat  with  good  relish  this  evening,  for  we  were  all  in 
fine  health,  and  had  ridden  nearly  all  of  a  long  summer's  day,  with 
a  burning  sun  reflected  from  the  sands.  My  companions  slept  rolled 
up  in  their  blankets,  and  the  Indians  lay  in  the  grass  near  the  fire, 
but  my  sleeping  place  generally  had  an  air  of  more  pretension.  Our 
rifles  were  tied  together  near  the  muzzle,  the  butts  resting  on  the 
ground,  and  a  knife  laid  on  the  rope,  to  cut  away  in  case  of  an 
alarm.  Over  this,  which  made  a  kind  of  frame,  was  thrown  a  large 
India-rubber  cloth,  which  we  used  to  cover  our  packs.  This  made  a 
tent  sufficiently  large  to  receive  about  half  of  my  bed,  and  was  a 
place  of  shelter  for  my  instruments;  and  as  I  was  careful  always  to 
put  this  part  against  the  wind,  I  could  lie  here  with  a  sensation  of 
satisfied  enjoyment,  and  hear  the  wind  blow  and  the  rain  patter 
close  to  my  head,  and  know  that  I  should  be  at  least  half  dry.  Cer- 
tainly, I  never  slept  more  soundly.  The  barometer  at  sunset  was 
26.010,  thermometer  81°,  and  cloudy;  but  a  gale  from  the  west 
sprang  up  with  the  setting  sun,  and  in  a  few  minutes  swept  away 
every  cloud  from  the  sky.  The  evening  was  very  fine,  and  I  re- 
mained up  to  take  some  astronomical  observations,  which  made  our 
position  in  latitude  40°  51'  17",  and  longitude  103°  35' 04". 

]uly  7. — At  our  camp  this  morning,  at  6  o'clock,  the  barometer  was 
at  26.183,  thermometer  69°,  and  clear,  with  a  light  wind  from  the 
southwest.  The  past  night  had  been  squally,  with  high  winds,  and 
occasionally  a  few  drops  of  rain.  Our  cooking  did  not  occupy  much 
time,  and  we  left  camp  early.  Nothing  of  interest  occurred  during 
the  morning.  The  same  dreary  barrenness,  except  that  a  hard  marly 
clay  had  replaced  the  sandy  soil.  Buffalo  absolutely  covered  the  plain 
on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  whenever  we  ascended  the  hills,  scat- 
tered herds  gave  life  to  the  view  in  every  direction.  A  small  drove  of 
wild  horses  made  their  appearance  on  the  low  river  bottoms,  a  mile 
or  two  to  the  left,  and  I  sent  off  one  of  the  Indians  (who  seemed 
very  eager  to  catch  one)  on  my  led  horse,  a  spirited  and  fleet  animal. 
The  savage  manoeuvred  a  little  to  get  the  wind  of  the  horses,  in 
which  he  succeeded;  approaching  within  a  hundred  yards  without 
being  discovered.  The  chase  for  a  few  minutes  was  animated  and  in- 
teresting. My  hunter  easily  overtook  and  passed  the  hindmost  of  the 
wild  drove,  which  the  Indian  did  not  attempt  to  lasso;  all  his  efforts 

195 


being  directed  to  the  capture  of  the  leader.  But  the  strength  of  the 
horse,  weakened  by  the  insufficient  nourishment  of  grass,  failed  in  a 
race,  and  all  the  drove  escaped.  We  halted  at  noon  on  the  bank  of  the 
river,  the  barometer  at  that  time  being  26.192,  and  the  thermometer 
103°,  with  a  light  air  from  the  south  and  clear  weather. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  dust  rising  among  the  hills  at  a 
particular  place,  attracted  our  attention,  and  riding  up  we  found 
a  band  of  eighteen  or  twenty  buffalo  bulls  engaged  in  a  desperate 
fight.  Though  butting  and  goring  were  bestowed  liberally  and  with- 
out distinction,  yet  their  efforts  were  evidently  directed  against  one, 
a  huge  gaunt  old  bull,  very  lean,  while  his  adversaries  were  all  fat 
and  in  good  order.  He  appeared  very  weak,  and  had  already  received 
some  wounds,  and  while  we  were  looking  on  was  several  times 
knocked  down  and  badly  hurt,  and  a  very  few  moments  would  have 
put  an  end  to  him.  Of  course  we  took  the  side  of  the  weaker  party, 
and  attacked  the  herd,  but  they  were  so  blind  with  rage  that  they 
fought  on,  utterly  regardless  of  our  presence,  although  on  foot  and 
on  horseback  we  were  firing  in  open  view  within  twenty  yards  of 
them.  But  this  did  not  last  long.  In  a  very  few  seconds  we  created  a 
commotion  among  them.  One  or  two  which  were  knocked  over  by 
the  balls  jumped  up  and  ran  ofT  into  the  hills,  and  they  began  to 
retreat  slowly  along  a  broad  ravine  to  the  river,  fighting  furiously  as 
they  went.  By  the  time  they  had  reached  the  bottom  we  had  pretty 
well  dispersed  them,  and  the  old  bull  hobbled  off,  to  lie  down  some- 
where. One  of  his  enemies  remained  on  the  ground  where  we  had 
first  fired  upon  them,  and  we  stopped  there  for  a  short  time  to  cut 
from  him  some  meat  for  our  supper.  We  had  neglected  to  secure  our 
horses,  thinking  it  an  unnecessary  precaution  in  their  fatigued  con- 
dition; but  our  mule  took  it  into  his  head  to  start,  and  away  he  went, 
followed  at  full  speed  by  the  pack  horse,  with  all  the  baggage  and 
instruments  on  his  back.  They  were  recovered  and  brought  back, 
after  a  chase  of  a  mile.  Fortunately  every  thing  was  well  secured,  so 
that  nothing,  not  even  the  barometer,  was  in  the  least  injured. 

The  sun  was  getting  low,  and  some  narrow  lines  of  timber  four  or 
five  miles  distant,  promised  us  a  pleasant  camp,  where,  with  plenty 
of  wood  for  fire,  and  comfortable  shelter,  and  rich  grass  for  our 
animals,  we  should  find  clear  cool  springs,  instead  of  the  warm  water 
of  the  Platte.  On  our  arrival  we  found  the  bed  of  a  stream  fifty  to 
one  hundred  feet  wide,  sunk  some  thirty  feet  below  the  level  of  the 
prairie,  with  perpendicular  banks,  bordered  by  a  fringe  of  green 

196 


Cottonwood,  but  not  a  drop  of  water.  There  were  several  small  forks 
to  the  stream  all  in  the  same  condition.  With  the  exception  of  the 
Platte  bottom,  the  country  seemed  to  be  of  a  clay  formation,  dry,  and 
perfectly  devoid  of  any  moisture,  and  baked  hard  by  the  sun.  Turn- 
ing off  towards  the  river,  we  reached  the  bank  in  about  a  mile,  and 
were  delighted  to  find  an  old  tree,  with  thick  foliage  and  spreading 
branches,  where  we  encamped.  At  sunset,  the  barometer  was  at 
25,950,  thermometer  81°,  with  a  strong  wind  from  S.  20°  E.,  and  the 
sky  partially  covered  with  heavy  masses  of  cloud,  which  settled  a 
little  towards  the  horizon  by  10  o'clock,  leaving  it  sufficiently  clear 
for  astronomical  observations,  which  placed  us  in  latitude  40°  33'  26", 
and  longitude  104°  02'  13". 

July  8. — The  morning  was  very  pleasant.  The  breeze  was  fresh 
from  S.  50°  E.  with  few  clouds;  the  barometer  at  6  o'clock  standing 
at  25,970,  and  the  thermometer  at  70°.  Since  leaving  the  forks,  our 
route  had  passed  over  a  country  alternately  clay  and  sand,  each  pre- 
senting the  same  naked  waste.  On  leaving  camp  this  morning,  we 
struck  again  a  sandy  region,  in  which  the  vegetation  appeared  some- 
what more  vigorous  than  that  which  we  had  observed  for  the  last  few 
days,  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  were  some  tolerably  large 
groves  of  timber. 

Journeying  along,  we  came  suddenly  upon  a  place  where  the 
ground  was  covered  with  horses'  tracks,  which  had  been  made  since 
the  rain,  and  indicated  the  immediate  presence  of  Indians  in  our 
neighborhood.  The  bufFalo,  too,  which  the  day  before  had  been  so 
numerous,  were  nowhere  in  sight,  another  sure  indication  that  there 
were  people  near.  Riding  on,  we  discovered  the  carcass  of  a  buffalo 
recently  killed,  perhaps  the  day  before.  We  scanned  the  horizon 
carefully  with  the  glass,  but  no  living  object  was  to  be  seen.  For  the 
next  mile  or  two  the  ground  was  dotted  with  buffalo  carcasses, 
which  showed  that  the  Indians  had  made  a  surround  here,  and  were 
in  considerable  force.  We  went  on  quickly  and  cautiously,  keeping 
the  river  bottom,  and  carefully  avoiding  the  hills;  but  we  met  with 
no  interruption,  and  began  to  grow  careless  again.  We  had  already 
lost  one  of  our  horses,  and  here  Basil's  mule  showed  symptoms  of 
giving  out,  and  finally  refused  to  advance,  being  what  the  Canadians 
call  reste.  He  therefore  dismounted,  and  drove  her  along  before  him, 
but  this  was  a  very  slow  way  of  travelling.  We  had  inadvertently  got 
about  half  a  mile  in  advance,  but  our  Cheyennes,  who  were  gener- 
ally a  mile  or  two  in  the  rear,  remained  with  him.  There  were  some 

197 


dark  looking  objects  among  the  hills,  about  two  miles  to  the  left, 
here  low  and  undulating,  which  we  had  seen  for  a  little  time,  and 
supposed  to  be  buffalo  coming  in  to  water;  but  happening  to  look 
behind,  Maxwell  saw  the  Cheyennes  whipping  up  furiously,  and  an- 
other glance  at  the  dark  objects  showed  them  at  once  to  be  Indians 
coming  up  at  speed. 

Had  we  been  well  mounted  and  disencumbered  of  instruments, 
we  might  have  set  them  at  defiance,  but  as  it  was,  we  were  fairly 
caught.  It  was  too  late  to  rejoin  our  friends,  and  we  endeavored  to 
gain  a  clump  of  timber  about  half  a  mile  ahead;  but  the  instruments 
and  the  tired  state  of  our  horses  did  not  allow  us  to  go  faster  than  a 
steady  canter,  and  they  were  gaining  on  us  fast.  At  first  they  did  not 
appear  to  be  more  than  fifteen  or  twenty  in  number,  but  group  after 
group  darted  into  view  at  the  top  of  the  hills,  until  all  the  little 
eminences  seemed  in  motion,  and  in  a  few  minutes  from  the  time 
they  were  first  discovered,  two  or  three  hundred,  naked  to  the 
breech  cloth,  were  sweeping  across  the  prairie.  In  a  few  hundred 
yards  we  discovered  that  the  timber  we  were  endeavoring  to  make 
was  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  before  we  could  reach  the 
bank,  down  came  the  Indians  upon  us. 

I  am  inclined  to  think  that  in  a  few  seconds  more  the  leading 
man,  and  perhaps,  some  of  his  companions,  would  have  rolled  in  the 
dust,  for  we  had  jerked  the  covers  from  our  guns,  and  our  fingers 
were  on  the  triggers ;  men  in  such  cases  generally  act  from  instinct, 
and  a  charge  from  three  hundred  naked  savages  is  a  circumstance 
not  well  calculated  to  promote  a  cool  exercise  of  judgment.  Just  as  he 
was  about  to  fire.  Maxwell  recognized  the  leading  Indian,  and 
shouted  to  him  in  the  Indian  language.  You're  a  fool,  God  damn 
you,  don't  you  know  me  ?  The  sound  of  his  own  language  seemed  to 
shock  the  savage,  and,  swerving  his  horse  a  little,  he  passed  us  like 
an  arrow.  He  wheeled,  as  I  rode  out  toward  him,  and  gave  me  his 
hand,  striking  his  breast  and  exclaiming,  Arapaho!  They  proved  to 
be  a  village  of  that  nation  among  whom  Maxwell  had  resided  as  a 
trader  a  year  or  two  previously,  and  recognized  him  accordingly.  We 
were  soon  in  the  midst  of  the  band,  answering  as  well  as  we  could 
a  multitude  of  questions,  of  which  the  very  first  was,  of  what  tribe 
were  our  Indian  companions  who  were  coming  in  the  rear?  They 
seemed  disappointed  to  know  that  they  were  Cheyennes,  for  they 
had  fully  anticipated  a  grand  dance  around  a  Pawnee  scalp  that 
night. 

198 


The  chief  showed  us  his  village  at  a  grove  on  the  river  six  miles 
ahead,  and  pointed  out  a  band  of  Buffalo,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Platte  immediately  opposite  us,  which  he  said  they  were  going  to 
surround.  They  had  seen  the  band  early  in  the  morning  from  their 
village,  and  had  been  making  a  large  circuit  to  avoid  giving  them 
the  wind,  when  they  discovered  us.  In  a  few  minutes  the  women 
came  galloping  up,  astride  on  their  horses,  and  naked  from  their 
knees  down,  and  the  hips  up.  They  followed  the  men  to  assist  in  cut- 
ting up  and  carrying  ofif  the  meat. 

The  wind  was  blowing  directly  across  the  river,  and  the  chief  re- 
quested us  to  halt  where  we  were,  for  a  while,  in  order  to  avoid  rais- 
ing the  herd.  We,  therefore,  unsaddled  our  horses,  and  sat  down  on 
the  bank  to  view  the  scene,  and  our  new  acquaintances  rode  a  few 
hundred  yards  lower  down,  and  began  crossing  the  river.  Scores  of 
wild  looking  dogs  followed,  looking  like  troops  of  wolves,  and  hav- 
ing, in  fact,  but  very  little  of  the  dog  in  their  composition.  Some  of 
them  remained  with  us,  and  I  checked  one  of  the  men,  whom  I 
found  aiming  at  one,  which  he  was  about  to  kill  for  a  wolf.  The  day 
had  become  very  hot.  The  air  was  clear,  with  a  very  slight  breeze,  and 
now,  at  twelve  o'clock,  while  the  barometer  stood  at  25.920,  the  at- 
tached thermometer  was  at  108°.  Our  Cheyennes  had  learned  that 
with  the  Arapaho  village,  were  about  twenty  lodges  of  their  own,  in- 
cluding their  own  families;  they,  therefore,  immediately  commenced 
making  their  toilette.  After  bathing  in  the  river,  they  invested  them- 
selves in  some  handsome  calico  shirts,  which  I  afterward  learned  they 
had  stolen  from  my  own  men,  and  spent  some  time  in  arranging  their 
hair  and  painting  themselves  with  some  vermillion  I  had  given 
them.  While  they  were  engaged  in  this  satisfactory  manner,  one  of 
their  half  wild  horses,  to  which  the  crowd  of  prancing  animals 
which  had  just  passed  had  recalled  the  freedom  of  her  existence 
among  the  wild  droves  on  the  prairie,  suddenly  dashed  into  the  hills 
at  the  top  of  her  speed.  She  was  their  pack  horse,  and  had  on  her 
back  all  the  worldly  wealth  of  our  poor  Cheyennes,  all  their  ac- 
coutrements, and  all  the  little  articles  which  they  had  picked  up 
among  us,  with  some  few  presents  I  had  given  them.  The  loss  which 
they  seemed  to  regret  most  were  their  spears  and  shields,  and  some 
tobacco  which  they  had  received  from  me.  However,  they  bore  it  all 
with  the  philosophy  of  an  Indian,  and  laughingly  continued  their 
toilette.  They  appeared,  however,  a  little  mortified  at  the  thought  of 
returning  to  the  village  in  such  a  sorry  plight.  "Our  people  will 

199 


laugh  at  us,"  said  one  of  them,  "returning  to  the  village  on  foot,  in- 
stead of  driving  back  a  drove  of  Pawnee  horses."  He  demanded  to 
know  if  I  loved  my  sorrel  hunter  very  much,  to  which  I  replied  he 
was  the  object  of  my  most  intense  affection.  Far  from  being  able  to 
give,  I  was  myself  in  want  of  horses,  and  any  suggestion  of  parting 
with  the  few  I  had  valuable,  was  met  with  peremptory  refusal.  In 
the  mean  time  the  slaughter  was  about  to  commence  on  the  other 
side.  So  soon  as  they  reached  it,  the  Indians  separated  into  two 
bodies.  One  party  proceeded  directly  across  the  prairie  toward  the 
hills  in  an  extended  line,  while  the  other  went  up  the  river;  and  in- 
stantly as  they  had  given  the  wind  to  the  herd,  the  chase  commenced. 
The  buffalo  started  for  the  hills,  but  were  intercepted  and  driven 
back  toward  the  river,  broken  and  running  in  every  direction.  The 
clouds  of  dust  soon  covered  the  whole  scene,  preventing  us  from  hav- 
ing any  but  an  occasional  view.  It  had  a  very  singular  appearance  to 
us  at  a  distance,  especially  when  looking  with  the  glass.  We  were  too 
far  to  hear  the  report  of  the  guns,  or  any  sound,  and  at  every  instant, 
through  the  clouds  of  dust  which  the  sun  made  luminous,  we  could 
see  for  a  moment  two  or  three  buffalo  dashing  along,  and  close  be- 
hind them  an  Indian  with  his  long  spear,  or  other  weapon,  and 
instantly  again  they  disappeared.  The  apparent  silence,  and  the 
dimly  seen  figures  flitting  by  with  such  rapidity,  gave  it  a  kind  of 
dreamy  effect,  and  seemed  more  like  a  picture  than  a  scene  of  real 
life.  It  had  been  a  large  herd  when  the  cevfie  commenced,  probably 
three  or  four  hundred  in  number;  but,  though  I  watched  them 
closely,  I  did  not  see  one  emerge  from  the  fatal  cloud  where  the 
work  of  destruction  was  going  on.  After  remaining  here  about  an 
hour,  we  resumed  our  journey  in  the  direction  of  the  village. 

Gradually,  as  we  rode  on,  Indian  after  Indian  came  dropping 
along,  laden  with  meat;  and  by  the  time  we  had  neared  the  lodges, 
the  backward  road  was  covered  with  the  returning  horsemen.  It  was 
a  pleasant  contrast  with  the  desert  road  we  had  been  travelling.  Sev- 
eral had  joined  company  with  us,  and  one  of  the  chiefs  invited  us  to 
his  lodge.  The  village  consisted  of  about  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  lodges,  of  which  twenty  were  Cheyennes;  the  latter  pitched  a 
little  apart  from  the  Arapahoes.  They  were  disposed  in  a  scattering 
manner  on  both  sides  of  a  broad  irregular  street,  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  wide,  and  running  along  the  river.  As  we  rode  along, 
I  remarked  near  some  of  the  lodges  a  kind  of  tripod  frame,  formed  of 


200 


three  slender  poles  of  birch,  scraped  very  clean,  to  which  were  affixed 
the  shield  and  spear,  with  some  other  weapons  of  a  chief.  All  were 
scrupulously  clean,  the  spear  head  was  burnished  bright,  and  the 
shield  white  and  stainless.  It  reminded  me  of  the  days  of  feudal 
chivalry;  and  when  as  I  rode  by  I  yielded  to  the  passing  impulse, 
and  touched  some  of  the  spotless  shields  with  the  muzzle  of  my 
gun,  I  almost  expected  a  grim  warrior  to  start  from  the  lodge  and 
resent  my  challenge.  The  master  of  the  lodge  spread  out  a  robe  for 
me  to  sit  upon,  and  the  squaws  set  before  us  a  large  wooden  dish  of 
buffalo  meat.  He  had  lit  his  pipe  in  the  meanwhile,  and  when  it  had 
been  passed  around,  we  commenced  our  dinner  while  he  continued 
to  smoke.  Gradually,  five  or  six  other  chiefs  came  in,  and  took  their 
seats  in  silence.  When  we  had  finished,  our  host  asked  a  number  of 
questions  relative  to  the  object  of  our  journey,  of  which  I  made  no 
concealment;  telling  him  simply  that  I  had  made  a  visit  to  see  the 
country,  preparatory  to  the  establishment  of  military  posts  on  the 
way  to  the  mountains.  Although  this  was  information  of  the  highest 
interest  to  them,  and  by  no  means  calculated  to  please  them,  it  ex- 
cited no  expression  of  surprise,  and  in  no  way  altered  the  grave 
courtesy  of  their  demeanor.  The  others  listened  and  smoked.  I  re- 
marked, that  in  taking  the  pipe  for  the  first  time,  each  had  turned 
the  stem  upward,  with  a  rapid  glance,  as  in  offering  to  the  Great 
Spirit,  before  he  put  it  in  his  mouth.  A  storm  had  been  gathering 
for  the  past  hour,  and  some  pattering  drops  on  the  lodge  warned  us 
that  we  had  some  miles  to  our  camp.  Some  Indian  had  given  Max- 
well a  bundle  of  dried  meat,  which  was  very  acceptable,  as  we  had 
nothing,  and,  springing  upon  our  horses,  we  rode  off  at  dusk  in  the 
face  of  a  cold  shower  and  driving  wind.  We  found  our  companions 
under  some  densely  foliaged  old  trees,  about  three  miles  up  the 
river.  Under  one  of  them  lay  the  trunk  of  a  large  cottonwood,  to 
leeward  of  which  the  man  had  kindled  a  fire,  and  we  sat  here  and 
roasted  our  meat  in  tolerable  shelter.  Nearly  opposite  was  the  mouth 
of  one  of  the  most  considerable  affluents  of  the  South  fork,  la 
Fourche  aux  Castors  (Beaver  fork)/'  heading  off  in  the  ridge  to 
the  southeast. 

]uly  9. — This  morning  we  caught  the  first  faint  glimpse  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  about  sixty  miles  distant.  Though  a  tolerably 


17.  Beaver  Creek,  entering  from  the  south  near  Brush,  Colo. 


201 


bright  day,  there  was  a  sHght  mist,  and  we  were  just  able  to  discern 
the  snowy  summit  of  "Long's  peak,"  {"les  deux  oreilles"  of  the 
Canadians,)  showing  like  a  small  cloud  near  the  horizon.  I  found 
it  easily  distinguishable,  there  being  a  perceptible  difference  in  its 
appearance  from  the  white  clouds  that  were  floating  about  the  sky. 
I  was  pleased  to  find  that  among  the  traders  and  voyageurs  the 
name  of  "Long's  peak"  had  been  adopted  and  become  familiar  in 
the  country.^^  In  the  ravines  near  this  place,  a  light  brown  sandstone 
made  its  first  appearance.  About  8,  we  discerned  several  persons  on 
horseback  a  mile  or  two  ahead  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 
They  turned  in  towards  the  river,  and  we  rode  down  to  meet  them. 
We  found  them  to  be  two  white  men,  and  a  mulatto  named  Jim 
Beckwith,^^  who  had  left  St.  Louis  when  a  boy,  and  gone  to  live 
with  the  Crow  Indians.  He  had  distinguished  himself  among  them 
by  some  acts  of  daring  bravery,  and  had  risen  to  the  rank  of  a  chief, 
but  had  now,  for  some  years,  left  them.  They  were  in  search  of  a 
band  of  horses  that  had  gone  ofif  from  a  camp  some  miles  above,  in 
charge  of  Mr.  Chabonard.^"  Two  of  them  continued  down  the  river, 
in  search  of  the  horses,  and  the  American  turned  back  with  us,  and 
we  rode  on  towards  the  camp.  About  eight  miles  from  our  sleeping 
place  we  reached  Bijou's  fork  [Bijou  Creek],  an  affluent  of  the  right 
bank.  Where  we  crossed  it,  a  short  distance  from  the  Platte,  it  has  a 
sandy  bed  about  four  hundred  yards  broad;  the  water  in  various 
small  streams,  a  few  inches  deep.  Seven  miles  further  brought  us  to 


18.  Long's  Peak  in  north  central  Colorado  is,  at  14,255  feet,  the  highest 
peak  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  National  Park.  It  is  named  for  Stephen  H.  Long, 
whose  1820  expedition  to  the  Rockies  was  the  second  U.S.  Army  reconnais- 
sance (the  first  was  Zebulon  Pike's  in  1806-7)  of  that  general  region. 

19.  James  P.  Beckwourth  (1798-1866)  lived  among  the  Crows  from  about 
1829  to  1831,  then  traded  among  them  for  the  American  Fur  Company.  He 
operated  on  the  Upper  Missouri  until  28  June  1836,  when  F.  A.  Chardon 
reported  his  departure  from  Fort  Clark  at  the  Mandan  villages.  He  was  trad- 
ing on  the  upper  Arkansas  and  South  Platte  when  JCF  encountered  him. 

20.  Jean  Baptiste  Charbonneau  (1805-66),  son  of  Toussaint  Charbonneau 
and  his  Shoshoni  wife  Sacagawea,  had  accompanied  his  mother  and  father  on 
the  Lewis  and  Clark  expedition  as  a  child,  starting  at  the  Mandan  villages. 
After  the  expedition,  William  Clark  undertook  to  educate  young  Jean  Bap- 
tiste, and  there  are  records  of  Clark's  involvement  as  late  as  1820.  After  a  stay 
in  Europe  (1823-29)  with  Prince  Paul,  Duke  of  Wiirttemburg,  he  returned 
to  the  West  and  became  an  employee  of  various  fur  companies.  In  1843,  he 
would  accompany  Sir  William  Drummond  Stewart  part  way  to  the  Rockies, 
and  in  1846  help  guide  the  Mormon  Battalion  across  New  Mexico  and 
Arizona  (a.  hafen  [1];  anderson,  283-88). 

202 


a  camp  of  some  four  or  five  whites,  New  Englanders,  I  believe, 
who  had  accompanied  Captain  Wyeth^^  to  the  Columbia  river,  and 
were  independent  trappers.  All  had  their  squaws  with  them,  and 
I  was  really  surprised  at  the  number  of  little  fat  buffalo-fed  boys, 
that  were  tumbling  about  the  camp,  all  apparently  of  the  same  age, 
about  three  or  four  years  old.  They  were  encamped  on  a  rich  bot- 
tom, covered  with  a  profusion  of  fine  grass,  and  had  a  large  number 
of  fine-looking  horses  and  mules.  We  rested  with  them  a  few  min- 
utes, and  in  about  two  miles  arrived  at  Chabonard's  camp,  on  an 
island  in  the  Platte.  On  the  heights  above,  we  met  the  first  Spaniard 
I  had  seen  in  the  country.  Mr.  Chabonard  was  in  the  service  of  Bent 
and  St.  Vrain's  company,  and  had  left  their  fort  some  forty  or  fifty 
miles  above,  in  the  spring,  with  boats  laden  with  the  furs  of  the  last 
year's  trade.  He  had  met  the  same  fortune  as  the  voyageurs  on  the 
North  fork,  and  finding  it  impossible  to  proceed,  had  taken  up  his 
summer's  residence  on  this  island,  which  he  had  named  St.  Helena. 
The  river  hills  appeared  to  be  composed  entirely  of  sand,  and  the 
Platte  had  lost  the  muddy  character  of  its  waters,  and  here  was  tol- 
erably clear.  From  the  mouth  of  the  South  fork,  I  had  found  it  oc- 
casionally broken  up  by  small  islands,  and  at  the  time  of  our 
journey,  which  was  at  a  season  of  the  year  when  the  waters  were 
at  a  favorable  stage,  it  was  not  navigable  for  anything  drawing  six 
inches  water.  The  current  was  very  swift — the  bed  of  the  stream  a 
coarse  gravel. 

From  the  place  at  which  we  had  encountered  the  Arapahoes,  the 
Platte  had  been  tolerably  well  fringed  with  timber,  and  the  island 
here  had  a  fine  grove  of  very  large  cottonwoods,  under  whose  broad 
shade  the  tents  were  pitched.  There  was  a  large  drove  of  horses  in 
the  opposite  prairie  bottom;  smoke  was  rising  from  the  scattered 
fires,  and  the  encampment  had  quite  a  patriarchal  air.  Mr.  C.  re- 
ceived us  hospitably.  One  of  the  people  was  sent  to  gather  mint, 
with  the  aid  of  which  he  concocted  very  good  julep;  and  some 
boiled  buffalo  tongue,  and  cofTee  with  the  luxury  of  sugar,  were  soon 
set  before  us.  The  people  in  his  employ  were  generally  Spaniards, 
and  among  them  I  saw  a  young  Spanish  woman  from  Taos,  whom 
I  found  to  be  Beckwith's  wife. 


21.  Capt.  Nathaniel  Jarvis  Wyeth  (1802-56),  the  builder  of  Fort  William 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Willamette  and  Fort  Hall  on  the  Snake  River  in  Idaho, 
had  made  two  overland  journeys  to  Oregon  and  had  done  much  to  publicize 
the  region. 

203 


I 


]uly  10. — We  parted  with  our  hospitable  host  after  breakfast  the 
next  morning,  and  reached  St.  Vrain's  fort,""  about  forty-five  miles 
from  St.  Helena,  late  in  the  evening.  The  post  is  situated  on  the 
South  fork  of  the  Platte,  immediately  under  the  mountains,  about 
seventeen  miles  east  of  Long's  peak.  It  is  on  the  right  bank,  on  the 
verge  of  the  upland  prairie,  about  forty  feet  above  the  river,  of 
which  the  immediate  valley  is  about  six  hundred  yards  wide.  The 
stream  is  divided  into  various  branches  by  small  islands,  among 
which  it  runs  with  a  swift  current.  The  bed  of  the  river  is  sand  and 
gravel,  the  water  very  clear,  and  here  may  be  called  a  mountain 
stream.  This  region  appears  to  be  entirely  free  from  the  limestones 
and  marls  which  give  to  the  lower  Platte  its  yellow  and  dirty  color. 
The  Black  hills""^  lie  between  the  stream  and  the  mountains,  whose 
snowy  peaks  glitter  a  few  miles  beyond.  At  the  fort  we  found  Mr. 
St.  Vrain,"^  who  received  us  with  much  kindness  and  hospitality. 
Maxwell  had  spent  the  last  two  or  three  years  between  this  post 
and  the  village  of  Taos,  and  here  he  was  at  home  and  among  his 
friends.  Spaniards  frequently  came  over  in  search  of  employment, 
and  several  came  in  shortly  after  our  arrival.  They  usually  obtain 
about  six  dollars  a  month,  generally  paid  to  them  in  goods.  They 
are  very  useful  in  a  camp  in  taking  care  of  horses  and  mules,  and  I 
engaged  one,  who  proved  to  be  an  active,  laborious  man,  and  was 
of  very  considerable  service  to  me."^  The  elevation  of  the  Platte  here 
is  5,400  feet  above  the  sea.  The  neighboring  mountains  did  not  ap- 
pear to  enter  far  the  region  of  perpetual  snow,  which  was  generally 
confined  to  the  northern  side  of  the  peaks.  On  the  southern  I  re- 
marked very  little.  Here  it  appeared,  so  far  as  I  could  judge  in  the 


22.  Fort  St.  Vrain,  about  twelve  miles  below  the  mouth  of  St.  Vrain  Creek, 
was  first  called  Fort  Lookout  and  was  also  sometimes  called  Fort  George.  It 
was  probably  completed  after  1837  and  closed  in  1845,  although  Bent,  St. 
Vrain  &  Co.  made  temporary  and  seasonal  use  of  it  for  several  years  (carter 

[2]). 

23.  Dale  L.  Morgan  has  suggested,  and  the  matter  is  worth  further  study, 
that  JCF  conceived  of  this  entire  area  from  Fort  Laramie  south  to  the  Cache 
la  Poudre  as  comprising  a  general  range  of  "Black  Hills."  (There  are  other 
formations  bearing  this  name,  of  course,  such  as  those  in  South  Dakota.)  For 
support  of  Morgan's  suggestion,  see  Map  2  in  the  Portfolio,  showing  such  a 
range  extending  on  as  far  as  the  Red  Buttes. 

24.  Marcellin  St.  Vrain  (1815-71),  younger  brother  of  the  better  known 
Ceran  St.  Vrain,  had  taken  charge  of  the  fort  about  1837  (carter  [2]). 

25.  This  is  the  man  listed  in  the  vouchers  as  Osea  Harmiyo  |  Jose  Armijo], 
who  continued  on  with  the  exploring  party. 

204 


distance,  to  descend  but  a  few  hundred  feet  below  the  summits. 
I  regretted  that  time  did  not  permit  me  to  visit  them;  but  the 
proper  object  of  my  survey  lay  among  the  mountains  further  north; 
and  I  looked  forward  to  an  exploration  of  their  snowy  recesses  with 
great  pleasure.  The  piney  region  of  the  mountains  to  the  south  was 
enveloped  in  smoke,  and  I  was  informed  had  been  on  fire  for  several 
months.  Pike's  peak  is  said  to  be  visible  from  this  place,  about  100 
miles  to  the  southward,  but  the  smoky  state  of  the  atmosphere  pre- 
vented my  seeing  it.  The  weather  continued  overcast  during  my  stay 
here,  so  that  I  failed  in  determining  the  latitude,  but  obtained  good 
observation  for  time  on  the  mornings  of  the  11th  and  12th.  An 
assumed  latitude  of  40°  22'  30"  from  the  evening  position  of  the 
12th,  enabled  me  to  obtain,  for  a  tolerably  correct  longitude,  105° 

45'  ir. 

July  12.— The  kindness  of  Mr.  St.  Vrain  had  enabled  me  to  obtain 
a  couple  of  horses  and  three  good  mules,  and,  with  a  further  addi- 
tion to  our  party  of  the  Spaniard  whom  I  had  hired,  and  two  others, 
who  were  going  to  obtain  service  at  Laramie's  fork,  we  resumed  our 
journey  at  10,  on  the  morning  of  the  12th.  We  had  been  able  to  pro- 
cure nothing  at  the  post  in  the  way  of  provision.  An  expected  supply 
from  Taos  had  not  yet  arrived,  and  a  few  pounds  of  coffee  was  all 
that  could  be  spared  to  us.  In  addition  to  this,  we  had  dried  meat 
enough  for  the  first  day;  on  the  next  we  expected  to  find  bufTalo. 
From  this  post,  according  to  the  estimate  of  the  country,  the  fort 
at  the  mouth  of  Laramie's  fork,  which  was  our  next  point  of  des- 
tination, was  nearly  due  north,  distant  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  miles. 

For  a  short  distance,  our  road  lay  down  the  valley  of  the  Platte; 
which  resembled  a  garden  in  the  splendor  of  fields  of  varied  flowers, 
which  filled  the  air  with  fragrance.  The  only  timber  I  noticed  con- 
sisted of  poplar,  birch  [alder],  cotton  wood,  and  willow.  In  some- 
thing less  than  three  miles,  we  crossed  Thompson's  creek  [Thomp- 
son River],  one  of  the  affluents  to  the  left  bank  of  the  South  fork, 
a  fine  stream  about  sixty-five  feet  wide  and  three  feet  deep.  Journey- 
ing on,  the  low  dark  line  of  the  Black  hills  lying  between  us  and 
the  mountains  to  the  leit,  in  about  ten  miles  from  the  fort,  we 
reached  Cache  a  la  Poudre  [River],  where  we  halted  to  noon.  This 
is  a  very  beautiful  mountain  stream,  about  one  hundred  feet  wide, 
flowing  with  a  full  swift  current  over  a  rocky  bed.  We  halted  under 
the  shade  of  some  cottonwoods,  with  which  the  stream  is  wooded 

205 


I 


scatteringly.  In  the  upper  part  of  its  course,  it  runs  amid  the  wildest 
mountain  scenery,  and  breaking  through  the  Black  Hills  falls  into 
the  Platte  about  ten  miles  below  this  place.  In  the  course  of  our 
late  journey,  I  had  managed  to  become  the  possessor  of  a  very  untrac- 
table  mule,  a  perfect  vixen,  and  her  I  had  turned  over  to  my  Span- 
iard. It  occupied  us  about  half  an  hour  to-day  to  get  the  saddle  upon 
her;  but,  once  on  her  back  Jose  could  not  be  dismounted,  realizing 
the  accounts  given  of  Mexican  horses  and  horsemanship;  and  we 
continued  our  route  in  the  afternoon. 

At  evening,  we  encamped  on  Crow  (?)  creek,  having  travelled 
about  twenty-eight  miles.  None  of  the  party  were  well  acquainted 
with  the  country,  and  I  had  great  difficulty  in  ascertaining  what  were 
the  names  of  the  streams  we  crossed  between  the  North  and  South 
forks  of  the  Platte.  This  I  supposed  to  be  Crow  creek."^  It  is 
what  is  called  a  salt  stream,  and  the  water  stands  in  pools,  having 
no  continuous  course.  A  fine  grained  sandstone  made  its  appearance 
in  the  banks.  The  observations  of  the  night  placed  us  in  a  latitude 
40°  42',  longitude  105°  33'  27".  The  barometer  at  sunset  was  25.231 ; 
attached  thermometer  at  66°.  Sky  clear,  except  in  the  east,  with  a 
light  wind  from  the  north. 

July  13. — There  being  no  wood  here,  we  used  last  night  the  bois 
de  vache,  which  is  very  plentiful.  At  our  camp  this  morning,  the 
barometer  was  at  25.235,  the  attached  thermometer  60°.  A  few 
clouds  were  moving  through  a  deep  blue  sky,  with  a  light  wind 
from  the  west.  After  a  ride  of  twelve  miles,  in  a  northerly  direction, 
over  a  plain  covered  with  innumerable  quantities  of  cacti,  we 
reached  a  small  creek  in  which  there  was  water,  and  where  several 
herds  of  buffalo  were  scattered  about  among  the  ravines,  which 
always  afford  good  pasturage.  We  seem  now  to  be  passing  along 
the  base  of  a  plateau  of  the  Black  hills,  in  which  the  formation  con- 
sists of  marls,  some  of  them  white  and  laminated,  the  country  to  the 
left  rising  suddenly,  and  falling  off  gradually  and  uniformly  to  the 
right.  In  five  or  six  miles  of  a  northeasterly  course,  we  struck  a  high 


26.  Not  likely.  To  reach  Crow  Creek  in  one  day,  by  the  route  they  are 
taking,  they  must  travel  to  the  latitude  of  Cheyenne,  Wyo. — an  impossible 
distance.  JCF's  own  reading  of  latitude  is  of  no  help,  putting  him  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Thompson  River.  Until  he  strikes  the  North  Platte,  we  shall 
have  no  clear  indication  of  his  location.  He  is  traveling  north  by  northeast, 
across  Crow,  Lodgepole,  and  Horse  creeks,  and  through  the  Goshen  Hole 
country  of  Goshen  County,  Wyo. 

206 


ridge,  broken  into  conical  peaks,  on  whose  summits  large  boulders 
were  gathered  in  heaps.  The  magnetic  direction  of  the  ridge  is 
northwest  and  southeast,  the  glittering  white  of  its  precipitous  sides 
making  it  visible  for  many  miles  to  the  south.  It  is  composed  of  a 
soft  earthy  limestone,  and  marls  resembling  that  hereafter  described, 
in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Chimney  Rock,  on  the  North  fork  of 
the  Platte,  easily  worked  by  the  winds  and  rains,  and  sometimes 
moulded  into  very  fantastic  shapes.  At  the  foot  of  the  northern  slope 
was  the  bed  of  a  creek  some  forty  feet  wide,  coming  by  frequent 
falls  from  the  bench  above.  It  was  shut  in  by  high  perpendicular 
banks,  in  which  were  strata  of  white  laminated  marl.  Its  bed  was 
perfectly  dry,  and  the  leading  feature  of  the  whole  region  is  one  of 
remarkable  aridity,  and  perfect  freedom  from  moisture.  In  about 
six  miles  we  crossed  the  bed  of  another  dry  creek;  and  continuing 
our  ride  over  a  high  level  prairie,  a  little  before  sundown  we  came 
suddenly  upon  a  beautiful  creek,  which  revived  us  with  a  feeling  of 
delighted  surprise  by  the  pleasant  contrast  of  the  deep  verdure  of  its 
banks,  with  the  parched  desert  we  had  passed.  We  had  suffered 
much  to-day,  both  men  and  horses,  for  want  of  water;  having  met 
with  it  but  once  in  our  uninterrupted  march  of  forty  miles,  and  an 
exclusive  meat  diet  creates  much  thirst. 

"Las  bestias  tiene?i  mucha  hambre,"  said  the  young  Spaniard,  in- 
quiringly; "y  la  gente  tambien,"  said  I,  "amigo,  we'll  camp  here." 
A  stream  of  good  and  clear  water  ran  winding  about  through  the 
little  valley,  and  a  herd  of  buffalo  were  quietly  feeding  a  little  dis- 
tance below.  It  was  quite  a  hunter's  paradise;  and  while  some  ran 
down  toward  the  band  to  kill  one  for  supper,  others  collected  bois 
de  vache  for  a  fire,  there  being  no  wood ;  and  I  amused  myself  with 
hunting  for  plants  among  the  grass. 

It  will  be  seen,  by  occasional  remarks  on  the  geological  forma- 
tion, that  the  constituents  of  the  soil  in  these  regions  are  good,  and 
every  day  served  to  strengthen  the  impression  in  my  mind,  con- 
firmed by  subsequent  observation,  that  the  barren  appearance  of  the 
country,  is  due  almost  entirely  to  the  extreme  dryness  of  the  climate. 
Along  our  route,  the  country  had  seemed  to  increase  constantly  in 
elevation.  According  to  the  indication  of  the  barometer,  we  were 
at  our  encampment,  5,440  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  evening  was  very  clear,  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  the  south, 
50°  east.  The  barometer  at  sunset  was  24.862,  the  thermometer  at- 
tached showing  68°.  I  supposed  this  to  be  a  fork  of  Lodge  Pole 

207 


creek,  so  far  as  I  could  determine  from  our  uncertain  means  of  in- 
formation. Astronomical  observations  gave  for  the  camp  a  longitude 
of  105°  13' 38",  and  latitude  41°  08' 31". 

July  14. — The  wind  continued  fresh  from  the  same  quarter  in  the 
morning,  the  day  being  clear  vi^ith  the  exception  of  a  few  clouds  in 
the  horizon.  At  our  camp  at  six  o'clock,  the  height  of  the  barometer 
was  24.830,  the  attached  thermometer  61°.  Our  course  this  morning 
was  directly  north,  by  compass,  the  variation  being  15°  or  16°  east- 
erly. A  ride  of  four  miles  brought  us  to  Lodge  Pole  creek,  which  we 
had  seen  at  its  mouth  on  the  South  fork;  crossing  on  the  way  two 
dry  streams,  in  eighteen  miles  from  our  encampment  of  the  past 
night,  we  reached  a  high  bleak  ridge,  composed  entirely  of  the  same 
earthy  limestone  and  marl  previously  described.  I  had  never  seen 
anything  which  impressed  so  strongly  on  my  mind  a  feeling  of 
desolation.  The  valley  through  which  ran  the  waters  of  Horse  creek, 
lay  in  view  to  the  north,  but  too  far  to  have  any  influence  on  the  im- 
mediate view.  On  the  peak  of  the  ridge  where  I  was  standing,  some 
six  or  seven  hundred  feet  above  the  river,  the  wind  was  high  and 
bleak ;  the  barren  and  arid  country  seemed  as  if  it  had  been  swept  by 
fires,  and  in  every  direction  the  same  dull  ash-colored  hue,  derived 
from  the  formation,  met  the  eye.  On  the  summits  were  some  stunted 
pines,  many  of  them  dead,  all  wearing  the  same  ashen  hue  of  desola- 
tion.^^ We  left  the  place  with  pleasure;  and  after  we  had  descended 
several  hundred  feet,  halted  in  one  of  the  ravines,  which,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  every  mile  or  two,  cut  the  flanks  of  the  ridge  with  little 
rushing  streams,  wearing  something  of  a  mountain  character.  We 
had  already  begun  to  exchange  the  comparatively  barren  lands  for 
those  of  a  more  fertile  character.  Though  the  sandstone  formed  the 
broken  banks  of  the  creek,  yet  they  were  covered  with  a  thin  grass; 
and  the  fifty  or  sixty  feet  which  formed  the  bottom  land  of  the  little 
stream,  was  clothed  with  very  luxuriant  grass,  among  which  I  re- 
marked willow  and  cherry,  {cerasus  virginiana;)  and  a  quantity  of 
gooseberry  and  currant  bushes  occupied  the  greater  part. 

The  creek  was  three  or  four  feet  broad,  and  about  six  inches  deep, 
with  a  swift  current  of  clear  water,  and  tolerably  cool.  We  had 


27.  Deleted  from  the  manuscript  draft  at  this  point:  "It  gave  a  body  to  the 
foetid  creations  of  the  internal  Regions,  &  the  poet's  words  come  strongly  to 
my  mind." 


208 


struck  it  too  low  down  to  find  the  cold  water,  which  we  should  have 
enjoyed  nearer  to  its  sources.  At  2  P.  M.,  the  barometer  was  at  25.050, 
the  attached  thermometer  104°.  A  day  of  hot  sunshine,  with  clouds, 
and  a  moderate  breeze  from  the  south.  Continuing  down  the  stream, 
in  about  four  miles  we  reached  its  mouth,  at  one  of  the  main 
branches  of  Horse  creek.  Looking  back  upon  the  ridge,  whose  direc- 
tion appeared  to  be  a  little  to  the  north  of  east,  we  saw  it  seamed  at 
frequent  intervals  with  the  dark  lines  of  wooded  streams,  affluents 
of  the  river  that  flowed  so  far  as  we  could  see  along  its  base.  We 
crossed,  in  the  space  of  twelve  miles  from  our  noon  halt,  three  or 
four  forks  of  Horse  creek,  and  encamped  at  sunset  on  the  most 
easterly. 

The  fork  on  which  we  encamped  appeared  to  have  followed  an 
easterly  direction  up  to  this  place;  but  here  it  makes  a  very  sudden 
bend  to  the  north,  passing  between  two  ranges  of  precipitous  hills, 
called,  as  I  was  informed,  Goshen's  hole.  There  is  somewhere  in  or 
near  this  locality  a  place  so  called,  but  I  am  not  certain  that  it  was 
the  place  of  our  encampment.  Looking  back  upon  the  spot,  at  the 
distance  of  a  few  miles  to  the  northward,  the  hills  appear  to  shut  in 
the  prairie,  through  which  runs  the  creek,  with  a  semi-circular 
sweep,  which  might  very  naturally  be  called  a  hole  in  the  hills.  The 
geological  composition  of  the  ridge  is  the  same  which  constitutes  the 
rock  of  the  Court-house  and  Chimney  on  the  North  fork,  which 
appeared  to  me  a  continuation  of  this  ridge.  The  winds  and  rains 
work  this  formation  into  a  variety  of  singular  forms.  The  pass  into 
Goshen's  hole  is  about  two  miles  wide,  and  the  hill  on  the  western 
side  imitates,  in  an  extraordinary  manner,  a  massive  fortified  place, 
with  a  remarkable  fulness  of  detail.  The  rock  is  marl  and  earthy 
limestone,  white,  without  the  least  appearance  of  vegetation,  and 
much  resembles  masonry  at  a  little  distance;  and  here  it  sweeps 
around  a  level  area  two  or  three  hundred  yards  in  diameter,  and  in 
the  form  of  a  half  moon,  terminating  on  either  extremity  in  enor- 
mous bastions.  Along  the  whole  line  of  the  parapets  appear  domes 
and  slender  minarets,  forty  or  fifty  feet  high,  giving  it  every  appear- 
ance of  an  old  fortified  town.  On  the  waters  of  White  river,  where 
this  formation  exists  in  great  extent,  it  presents  appearances  which 
excite  the  admiration  of  the  solitary  voyageur,  and  form  a  frequent 
theme  of  their  conversation  when  speaking  of  the  wonders  of  the 
country.  Sometimes  it  offers  the  perfectly  illusive  appearances  of  a 


209 


I 


large  city,  with  numerous  streets  and  magnificent  buildings,  among 
which  the  Canadians  never  fail  to  see  their  cabaret;  and  sometimes 
it  takes  the  form  of  a  solitary  house,  with  many  large  chambers,  into 
which  they  drive  their  horses  at  night,  and  sleep  in  these  natural 
defences  perfectly  secure  from  any  attack  of  prowling  savages.  Be- 
fore reaching  our  camp  at  Goshen's  hole,  in  crossing  the  immense 
detritus  at  the  foot  of  the  Castle  rock,  we  were  involved  amidst 
winding  passages  cut  by  the  waters  of  the  hill;  and  where,  with  a 
breadth  scarcely  large  enough  for  the  passage  of  a  horse,  the  walls 
rise  thirty  and  forty  feet  perpendicularly.  This  formation  supplies 
the  discoloration  of  the  Platte.  At  sunset,  the  height  of  the  mercurial 
column  was  25.500,  the  attached  thermometer  80°,  and  wind  mod- 
erate from  S.  38°  E.  Clouds  covered  the  sky  with  the  rise  of  the 
moon,  but  I  succeeded  in  obtaining  the  usual  astronomical  observa- 
tions, which  placed  us  in  latitude  41°  40' 13'',  and  longitude  104° 
59'  23". 

]uly  15. — At  6  this  morning,  the  barometer  was  at  25.515,  the 
thermometer  72°,  the  day  was  fine,  with  some  clouds  looking  dark 
on  the  south,  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  the  same  quarter.  We  found 
that  in  our  journey  across  the  country  we  had  kept  too  much  to  the 
eastward.  This  morning  accordingly  we  travelled  by  compass  some 
15  or  20°  to  the  west  of  north,  and  struck  the  Platte  some  thirteen 
miles  below  Fort  Laramie.  The  day  was  extremely  hot,  and  among 
the  hills  the  wind  seemed  to  have  just  issued  from  an  oven.  Our 
horses  were  much  distressed,  as  we  had  travelled  hard,  and  it  was 
with  some  difficulty  that  they  were  all  brought  to  the  Platte;  which 
we  reached  at  1  o'clock.  In  riding  in  towards  the  river,  we  found  the 
trail  of  our  carts,  which  appeared  to  have  passed  a  day  or  two  since. 

After  having  allowed  our  animals  two  hours  for  food  and  repose, 
we  resumed  our  journey,  and  towards  the  close  of  the  day  came  in 
sight  of  Laramie's  fork.  Issuing  from  the  river  hills,  we  came  first 
in  view  of  Fort  Platte,"^  a  post  belonging  to  Messrs.  Sybille,  Adams  & 
Co.,  situated  immediately  in  the  point  of  land  at  the  junction  of 
Laramie  with  the  Platte.  Like  the  post  we  had  visited  on  the  South 
fork,  it  was  built  of  earth,  and  still  unfinished,  being  enclosed  with 
walls,  or  rather  houses,  on  three  of  the  sides,  and  open  on  the  fourth 
to  the  river.  A  few  hundred  yards  brought  us  in  view  of  the  post 


28.  Fort  Platte,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Laramie  and  the  North  Platte,  was 
built  in  1841  by  Lancaster  P.  Lupton,  sold  in  the  spring  of  1842  to  Sibille  & 
Adams,  and  abandoned  in  1845. 


210 


29 


of  the  American  Fur  Company,  called  Fort  John,  or  Laramie. 
This  was  a  large  post,  having  more  the  air  of  military  construction 
than  the  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  It  is  on  the  left  bank,  on 
a  rising  ground  some  twenty-five  feet  above  the  water;  and  its 
lofty  walls,  whitewashed  and  picketed,  with  the  large  bastions  at  the 
angles,  gave  it  quite  an  imposing  appearance  in  the  uncertain  light 
of  evening.  A  cluster  of  lodges,  which  the  language  told  us  belonged 
to  Sioux  Indians,  was  pitched  under  the  walls,  and,  with  the  fine 
back  ground  of  the  Black  Hills  and  the  prominent  peak  of  Laramie 
mountain,  strongly  drawn  in  the  clear  light  of  the  western  sky, 
where  the  sun  had  already  set,  the  whole  formed  at  the  moment 
a  strikingly  beautiful  picture.  From  the  company  at  St.  Louis  I  had 
letters  for  Mr.  Boudeau,^"  the  gentleman  in  charge  of  the  post,  by 
whom  I  was  received  with  great  hospitality  and  an  efficient  kindness, 
which  was  invaluable  to  me  during  my  stay  in  the  country.  I  found 
our  people  encamped  on  the  bank,  a  short  distance  above  the  fort. 
All  were  well,  and  in  the  enjoyment  of  a  bountiful  supper,  which 
cofiFee  and  bread  made  luxurious  to  us,  we  soon  forgot  the  fatigues 
of  the  last  ten  days. 

July  16. — I  found  that,  during  my  absence,  the  situation  of  affairs 
had  undergone  some  change;  and  the  usual  quiet  and  somewhat 
monotonous  regularity  of  the  camp  had  given  place  to  excitement 
and  alarm.  The  circumstances  which  occasioned  this  change  will  be 
found  narrated  in  the  following  extract  from  the  journal  of  Mr. 


29.  William  Marshall  Anderson  provides  an  eye-witness  account  of  the 
establishment  of  Fort  Laramie's  predecessor,  Fort  William.  It  was  founded  in 
1834  by  William  L.  Sublette  (of  Sublette  &  Campbell)  and  was  named  both 
for  Sublette  and  his  guest,  Anderson.  The  fort  was  known  for  a  while  as  Fort 
Lucien  after  its  sale  in  1835  to  [Lucien]  Fontenelle,  Fitzpatrick  &  Co.,  but 
the  name  Fort  William  hung  on.  After  the  American  Fur  Company  took  over 
the  interests  of  the  owners,  it  was  rebuilt  as  an  adobe  structure  and  renamed 
Fort  John.  It  probably  was  rebuilt  on  the  same  site,  though  this  has  not  yet 
been  determined  archeologically.  As  JCF  indicates,  the  name  Laramie  was  also 
in  use,  and  when  the  Army  purchased  the  structure  in  1849  it  officially  became 
Fort  Laramie.  There  are  many  accounts  of  the  post  and  its  history,  including 
JCF's  description,  p.  218.  For  William  Marshall  Anderson's  account  of  its 
founding  as  Fort  William,  see  anderson,  35  and  passim. 

30.  James  Bordeaux  (1814-78),  fur  trader  and  interpreter,  had  come  to 
the  Platte  region  from  Fort  Pierre  where  he  had  worked  for  the  American 
Fur  Company.  He  served  more  than  once  as  bourgeois  at  Fort  Laramie,  and 
operated  a  number  of  trading  posts  in  the  area  (trenholm;  j.  d.  mc  dermott 

[I])- 

211 


Preuss,  which  commences  with  the  day  of  our  separation  on  the 
South  fork  of  the  Platte. 


31 


Extract  from  the  Journal  of  Mr.  Preuss^ 

"July  6. — We  crossed  the  plateau  or  highland  between  the  two 
forks  in  about  six  hours.  I  let  my  horse  go  slow  as  he  liked,  to  in- 
demnify us  both  for  the  previous  hardship;  and  about  noon  we 
reached  the  North  fork.  There  was  no  sign  that  our  party  had 
passed ;  we  rode,  therefore,  to  some  pine  trees,  unsaddled  the  horses, 
and  stretched  our  limbs  on  the  grass,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  our 
company.  After  remaining  here  two  hours,  my  companion  [Ber- 
nier]  became  impatient,  mounted  his  horse  again,  and  rode  off  down 
the  river  to  see  if  he  could  discover  our  people.  I  felt  so  marode 
[sic]  yet,  that  it  was  a  horrible  idea  to  me  to  bestride  that  saddle 
again,  so  I  lay  still.  I  knew  they  could  not  come  any  other  way,  and 
then  my  companion,  one  of  the  best  men  of  the  company,  would  not 
abandon  me.  The  sun  went  down;  he  did  not  come;  uneasy  I  did 
not  feel,  but  very  hungry;  I  had  no  provisions,  but  I  could  make  a 
fire;  and  as  I  espied  two  doves  in  a  tree,  I  tried  to  kill  one;  but  it 
needs  a  better  marksman  than  myself  to  kill  a  little  bird  with  a 
rifle.  I  made  a  large  fire,  however,  lighted  my  pipe — this  true  friend 
of  mine  in  every  emergency — laid  down,  and  let  my  thoughts  wan- 
der to  the  far  East.  It  was  not  many  minutes  after  when  I  heard  the 
tramp  of  a  horse,  and  my  faithful  companion  was  by  my  side.  He 
had  found  the  party,  who  had  been  delayed  by  making  their  cache, 
about  seven  miles  below.  To  the  good  supper  which  he  brought  with 
him  I  did  ample  justice.  He  had  forgotten  salt,  and  I  tried  the  sol- 
dier's substitute  in  time  of  war,  and  used  gunpowder;  but  it  answered 
badly — bitter  enough,  but  no  flavor  of  kitchen  salt,^^  I  slept  well; 


31.  Preuss  apparently  produced  two  accounts,  at  least  for  this  period.  His 
principal  journal  covering  all  his  travels  with  JCF,  the  original  manuscript 
of  which  is  in  DLC  and  available  in  translation  (preuss),  is  quite  different 
for  his  journey  to  Fort  Laramie.  His  editors  conjecture  that  Preuss  simply 
gave  JCF  the  information  to  cover  his  trip,  and  that  JCF  wrote  the  "abstract" 
to  harmonize  with  the  rest  of  his  report.  This  is  quite  probably  true. 

32.  In  his  "other"  account,  Preuss  is  in  his  usual  dour  and  ungrateful  mood: 
"After  we  had  walked  back  to  the  cedar  tree,  he  exhibited  his  wares:  meat, 
tongue,  bread,  and  the  remainder  of  Fremont's  Fourth  of  July  keg.  What  a 
joy,  what  a  delight!  Yet  a  person  is  never  satisfied.  When  I  was  eating  I 
thought  that  those  people  could  have  sent  along  a  little  salt  if  they  had  had 
anything  of  a  cultured  taste"  (preuss,  20). 

212 


and  was  only  disturbed  by  two  owls,  which  were  attracted  by  the 
fire,  and  took  their  place  in  the  tree  under  which  we  slept.  Their 
music  seemed  as  disagreeable  to  my  companion  as  to  myself;  he 
fired  his  rifle  twice,  and  then  they  let  us  alone. 

"]uly  7. — At  about  10  o'clock,  the  party  arrived;  and  we  contin- 
ued our  journey  through  a  country  which  offered  but  little  to  in- 
terest the  traveller.  The  soil  was  much  more  sandy  than  in  the  valley 
below  the  confluence  of  the  forks,  and  the  face  of  the  country  no 
longer  presented  the  refreshing  green  which  had  hitherto  character- 
ized it.  The  rich  grass  was  now  found  only  in  dispersed  spots,  on 
low  grounds,  and  on  the  bottom  land  of  the  streams.  A  long 
drought,  joined  to  extreme  heat,  had  so  parched  up  the  upper 
prairies,  that  they  were  in  many  places  bald,  or  covered  only  with 
a  thin  growth  of  yellow  and  poor  grass.  The  nature  of  the  soil  ren- 
ders it  extremely  susceptible  to  the  vicissitudes  of  the  climate.  Be- 
tween the  forks,  and  from  their  junction  to  the  Black  Hills,  the 
formation  consists  of  marl  and  a  soft  earthy  limestone,  with  granitic 
sandstone.  Such  a  formation  cannot  give  rise  to  a  sterile  soil;  and  on 
our  return  in  September,  when  the  country  had  been  watered  by 
frequent  rains,  the  valley  of  the  Platte  looked  like  a  garden;  so  rich 
was  the  verdure  of  the  grasses,  and  so  luxuriant  the  bloom  of  abun- 
dant flowers.  The  wild  sage  begins  to  make  its  appearance,  and 
timber  is  so  scarce  that  we  generally  made  our  fires  of  the  bois  de 
vache.  With  the  exception  of  now  and  then  an  isolated  tree  or  two, 
standing  like  a  light-house  on  the  river  bank,  there  is  none  what- 
ever to  be  seen.^^ 

"]uly  8. — Our  road  to-day  was  a  solitary  one.  No  game  made  its 
appearance,  not  even  a  bufiFalo  or  a  stray  antelope;  and  nothing  oc- 
curred to  break  the  monotony  until  about  5  o'clock,  when  the  cara- 
van made  a  sudden  halt.  There  was  a  galloping  in  of  scouts  and 
horsemen  from  every  side — a  hurrying  to  and  fro  in  noisy  con- 
fusion; rifles  were  taken  from  their  cover;  bullet  pouches  examined: 
in  short,  there  was  the  cry  of  "Indians,"  heard  again.  I  had  become 
so  much  accustomed  to  these  alarms,  that  now  they  made  but  little 
impression  on  me;  and,  before  I  had  time  to  become  excited,  the 
new  comers  were  ascertained  to  be  whites.  It  was  a  large  party 
of  traders  and  trappers,  conducted  by  Mr.  Bridger,  a   man   well 


33.  The  entry  for  this  day  in  his  published  diary  reads  only:  "Nothing  new 
under  this  sun"  (preuss,  20). 

213 


known  in  the  history  of  the  country.^*  As  the  sun  was  low,  and  there 
was  a  fine  grass  patch  not  far  ahead,  they  turned  back  and  encamped 
for  the  night  with  us,  Mr.  Bridger  was  invited  to  supper;  and,  after 
the  table  cloth  was  removed,  we  listened  with  eager  interest  to  an 
account  of  their  adventures.  What  they  had  met,  we  would  be  likely 
to  encounter;  the  chances  which  had  befallen  them,  would  prob- 
ably happen  to  us;  and  we  looked  upon  their  life  as  a  picture  of 
our  own.  He  informed  us  that  the  condition  of  the  country  had  be- 
come exceedingly  dangerous.  The  Sioux,  who  had  been  badly  dis- 
posed, had  broken  out  into  open  hostility,  and  in  the  preceding 
autumn  his  party  had  encountered  them  in  a  severe  engagement, 
in  which  a  number  of  lives  had  been  lost  on  both  sides.  United  with 
the  Cheyenne  and  Gros  Ventre  Indians,  they  were  scouring  the  up- 
per country  in  war  parties  of  great  force,  and  were  at  this  time  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Red  Buttes,  a  famous  landmark,  which  was 
directly  on  our  path.  They  had  declared  war  upon  every  liv- 
ing thing  which  should  be  found  westward  of  that  point;  though 
their  main  object  was  to  attack  a  large  camp  of  whites  and  Snake 
Indians,  who  had  a  rendezvous  in  the  Sweet  Water  valley.  Availing 
himself  of  his  intimate  knowledge  of  the  country,  he  had  reached 
Laramie  by  an  unusual  route  through  the  Black  Hills,  and  avoided 
coming  into  contact  with  any  of  the  scattered  parties.  This  gentleman 
offered  his  services  to  accompany  us  so  far  as  the  head  of  the  Sweet 
Water;  but  the  absence  of  our  leader,  which  was  deeply  re- 
gretted by  us  all,^''  rendered  it  impossible  for  us  to  enter  upon  such 
an  arrangement.  In  a  camp  consisting  of  men  whose  lives  had  been 
spent  in  this  country,  I  expected  to  find  every  one  prepared  for  oc- 
currences of  this  nature;  but,  to  my  great  surprise,  I  found,  on  the 
contrary,  that  this  news  had  thrown  them  all  into  the  greatest  con- 
sternation, and,  on  every  side,  I  heard  only  one  exclamation,  "II  ny 
aura  pas  de  vie  pour  nous."  All  the  night  scattered  groups  were  as- 
sembled around  the  fires,  smoking  their  pipes,  and  listening  with 
the  greatest  eagerness  to  exaggerated  details  of  Indian  hostilities; 


34.  Jim  Bridger  (1804-81),  the  famous  frontiersman  and  scout  who  had 
been  connected  with  northwestern  fur  companies  since  1822,  would  in  the 
course  of  the  next  year  establish  a  way-station  in  southwestern  Wyoming.  For 
a  biography,  see  alter. 

35.  These  can  hardly  be  Preuss'  own  words.  His  published  diary  says: 
"I  feel  better  because  of  Fremont's  absence"  (preuss,  21). 


214 


and  in  the  morning  I  found  the  camp  dispirited,  and  agitated  by  a 
variety  of  conflicting  opinions.  A  majority  of  the  people  were  strongly 
disposed  to  return  ;^^  but  Clement  Lambert,  with  some  five  or  six 
others,  professed  their  determination  to  follow  Mr.  Fremont  to  the 
uttermost  limit  of  his  journey.  The  others  yielded  to  their  remon- 
strances; and,  somewhat  ashamed  of  their  cowardice,  concluded  to 
advance  at  least  so  far  as  Laramie  fork,  eastward  of  which  they  were 
aware  no  danger  was  to  be  apprehended.  Notwithstanding  the  con- 
fusion and  excitement,  we  were  very  early  on  the  road,  as  the  days 
were  extremely  hot,  and  we  were  anxious  to  profit  by  the  freshness 
of  the  morning.  The  soft  marly  formation,  over  which  we  were  now 
journeying  frequently  offers  to  the  traveller  views  of  remarkable 
and  picturesque  beauty.  To  several  of  these  localities  where  the 
winds  and  the  rain  have  worked  the  bluffs  into  curious  shapes,  the 
voyageurs  have  given  names  according  to  some  fancied  resemblance. 
One  of  these,  called  the  Courthouse,  we  passed  about  six  miles  from 
our  encampment  of  last  night,  and  toward  noon  came  in  sight  of 
the  celebrated  Chimney  RochJ'  It  looks,  at  this  distance  of  about 
thirty  miles,  like  what  it  is  called,  the  long  chimney  of  a  steam-fac- 
tory establishment,  or  a  shot-tower  in  Baltimore.  Nothing  occurred 
to  interrupt  the  quiet  of  the  day;  and  we  encamped  on  the  river, 
after  a  march  of  twenty-four  miles.  Buffalo  had  become  very 
scarce,  and  but  one  cow  had  been  killed,  of  which  the  meat  had  been 
cut  into  thin  slices,  and  hung  around  the  carts  to  dry. 

"]uly  10. — We  continued  along  the  same  fine,  plainly  beaten  road, 
which  the  smooth  surface  of  the  country  afforded  us  for  a  distance 
of  six  hundred  and  thirty  miles,  from  the  frontiers  of  Missouri  to 


36.  And  so  was  Preuss,  who  says  in  his  pubhshed  diary:  "It  would  be 
ridiculous  to  risk  the  lives  of  twenty-five  people  just  to  determine  a  few 
longitudes  and  latitudes  and  to  find  out  the  elevation  of  a  mountain  range" 
(pREuss,  21-22). 

37.  Courthouse  Rock  and  Chimney  Rock,  both  famous  landmarks  on  the 
trail  along  the  south  bank  of  the  North  Platte,  in  Morrill  County,  Nebr.,  bear 
some  relevance  to  the  JCF  expedition.  A  study  of  trail  landmarks  by  Dale  L. 
Morgan  indicates  that  the  name  of  Courthouse  Rock  was  unknown  in  the 
literature  before  JCF's  first  Report  was  issued,  and  the  general  and  early 
acceptance  of  that  name  is  one  more  indication  of  the  impact  his  Report  had 
on  an  America  looking  westward.  As  for  Chimney  Rock,  Preuss  made  a 
sketch  (p.  216)  which  is  the  second  oldest  on  record  (mattes,  385),  and 
said  it  looked  like  the  chimney  of  a  factory  or  "a  shot-tower  in  Baltimore." 
Preuss  appears  to  have  been  the  first  to  use  the  name  Chimney  Rock. 


215 


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the  Laramie  fork.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  met  some  whites,  who 
were  following  along  in  the  train  of  Mr.  Bridger;  and,  after  a  day's 
journey  of  twenty-four  miles,  encamped  about  sunset  at  the  Chim- 
ney Rock,  of  which  the  annexed  drawing  [p.  216]  will  render  any 
description  unnecessary.  It  consists  of  marl  and  earthy  limestone, 
and  the  weather  is  rapidly  diminishing  its  height,  which  is  now 
not  more  than  two  hundred  feet  above  the  river.  Travellers  who 
visited  it  some  years  since  placed  its  height  at  upwards  of  five  hun- 
dred feet. 

"July  11.— The  valley  of  the  North  fork  is  of  a  variable  breadth, 
from  one  to  four  and  sometimes  six  miles.  Fifteen  miles  from  the 
Chimney  Rock  we  reached  one  of  those  places  where  the  river 
strikes  the  bluffs  and  forces  the  road  to  make  a  considerable  circuit 
over  the  uplands.  This  presented  an  escarpment  on  the  river  of  about 
nine  hundred  yards  in  length,  and  is  familiarly  known  as  Scott's 
blufls.^^  We  had  made  a  journey  of  thirty  miles  before  we  again 
struck  the  river,  at  a  place  where  some  scanty  grass  afforded  an  in- 
sufficient pasturage  to  our  animals.  About  twenty  miles  from  the 
Chimney  Rock  we  had  found  a  very  beautiful  spring  of  excellent 
and  cold  water;  but  it  was  in  such  a  deep  ravine,  and  so  small,  that 
the  animals  could  not  profit  by  it,  and  we  therefore  halted  only 
a  few  minutes,  and  found  a  resting  place  ten  miles  further  on.  The 
plain  between  Scott's  bluffs  and  Chimney  Rock  was  almost  entirely 
covered  with  drift  wood,  consisting  principally  of  cedar,  which,  we 
were  informed,  had  been  supplied  from  the  Black  Hills,  in  a  flood 
five  or  six  years  since. 

"]uly  12. — Nine  miles  from  our  encampment  of  yesterday  we 
crossed  Horse  creek,  a  shallow  stream  of  clear  water,  about  seventy 
yards  wide,  falling  into  the  Platte  on  the  right  bank.  It  was  lightly 
timbered,  and  great  quantities  of  drift  wood  were  piled  up  on  the 
banks,  appearing  to  be  supplied  by  the  creek  from  above.  After  a 
journey  of  twenty-six  miles,  we  encamped  on  a  rich  bottom,  which 
afforded  fine  grass  to  our  animals.  Buffalo  have  entirely  disappeared, 
and  we  live  now  upon  the  dried  meat  which  is  exceedingly  poor 
food.  The  marl  and  earthy  limestone,  which  constituted  the  forma- 
tion for  several  days  past,  had  changed  during  the  day  into  a  com- 


38.  Scotts  Bluf?,  south  of  the  river  near  Scottsbluff,  Nebr.,  is  a  national 
monument  maintained  by  the  National  Park  Service.  Portions  of  the  old 
wagon  trail  are  still  visible  near  by. 

217 


pact  white  or  grayish  white  hmestone,  sometimes  containing  horn- 
stone;  and  at  the  place  of  our  encampment  this  evening,  some  strata 
in  the  river  hills  cropped  out  to  the  height  of  thirty  or  forty  feet, 
consisting  of  a  fine-grained  granitic  sandstone;  one  of  the  strata 
closely  resembling  gneiss. 

"July  13. — To-day,  about  four  o'clock,  we  reached  Fort  Laramie, 
where  we  were  cordially  received;  we  pitched  our  camp  a  little 
above  the  fort,  on  the  bank  of  Laramie  river,  in  which  the  pure 
and  clear  water  of  the  mountain  stream  looked  refreshingly  cool, 
and  made  a  pleasant  contrast  to  the  muddy,  yellow  waters  of  the 
Platte."^' 

I  walked  up  to  visit  our  friends  at  the  fort,  which  is  a  quadrangu- 
lar structure,  built  of  clay,  after  the  fashion  of  the  Mexicans,  who 
are  generally  employed  in  building  them.  The  walls  are  about  fif- 
teen feet  high,  surmounted  with  a  wooden  palisade,  and  form  a  por- 
tion of  ranges  of  houses,  which  entirely  surround  a  yard  of  about 
one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  square.  Every  apartment  has  its  door 
and  window,  all,  of  course,  opening  on  the  inside.  There  are  two 
entrances  opposite  each  other  and  midway  the  wall,  one  of  which 
is  a  large  and  public  entrance,  the  other  smaller  and  more  private: 
a  sort  of  postern  gate.  Over  the  great  entrance  is  a  square  tower,  with 
loopholes;  and,  like  the  rest  of  the  work,  built  of  earth.  At  two  of 
the  angles,  and  diagonally  opposite  each  other,  are  large  square 
bastions,  so  arranged  as  to  sweep  the  four  faces  of  the  walls. 

This  post  belongs  to  the  American  Fur  Company,  and,  at  the  time 
of  our  visit,  was  in  charge  of  Mr.  Boudeau.  Two  of  the  company's 
clerks,  Messrs.  Galpin  and  Kellogg,^^  were  with  him,  and  he  had 
in  the  fort  about  sixteen  men.  As  usual,  these  had  found  wives 


39.  The  end  of  the  so-called  abstract  from  the  Preuss  journal.  His  published 
version  merely  reads,  "Nothing  new,  except  that  we  arrived  at  the  Fort  to- 
day" (preuss,  23). 

40.  Charles  E.  Galpin  (d.  ca.  1870),  was  for  many  years  connected  with  the 
fur  trade  on  the  upper  Missouri,  and  was  in  charge  at  Fort  Pierre  when  it 
was  sold  to  the  U.S.  government.  Fort  Pierre  was  a  depot  for  Fort  Laramie 
at  this  time  (see  South  Dahota  Historical  Collections,  1:364-65).  The  other 
clerk  apparently  was  Philander  Kellogg  (1810-ca.  1848).  When  he  went  to 
the  North  Platte  region  is  uncertain,  but  his  brothers  Florentine  and  Benja- 
min Kellogg  encountered  him  unexpectedly  on  the  trail  during  a  trip  to 
California  in  1846  (korns,  153).  A  letter  from  Fort  Pierre,  19  Aug.  1845, 
from  A.  R.  Bonis  to  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company,  sheds  some  light  on 
Kellogg's  activities  and  also  illustrates  how  Fort  Pierre  served  as  a  shipping 

2l8 


among  the  Indian  squaws;  and,  with  the  usual  accompaniment  of 
children,  the  place  had  quite  a  populous  appearance.  It  is  hardly 
necessary  to  say,  that  the  object  of  the  establishment  is  trade  with  the 
neighboring  tribes,  who,  in  the  course  of  the  year,  generally  make 
two  or  three  visits  to  the  fort.  In  addition  to  this,  traders,  with  a 
small  outfit,  are  constantly  kept  amongst  them.  The  articles  of  trade 
consist  on  the  one  side  almost  entirely  of  buffalo  robes,  and  on  the 
other,  of  blankets,  calicoes,  guns,  powder,  and  lead,  with  such  cheap 
ornaments  as  glass  beads,  looking-glasses,  rings,  vermilion  for 
painting,  tobacco,  and  principally,  and  in  spite  of  the  prohibition, 
of  spirits,  brought  into  the  country  in  the  form  of  alcohol,  and  di- 
luted with  water  before  sold.  While  mentioning  this  fact,  it  is  but 
justice  to  the  American  Fur  Company  to  state,  that,  throughout  the 
country,  I  have  always  found  them  strenuously  opposed  to  the  intro- 
duction of  spirituous  liquors.  But  in  the  present  state  of  things,  when 
the  country  is  supplied  with  alcohol,  when  a  keg  of  it  will  purchase 
from  an  Indian  every  thing  he  possesses — his  furs,  his  lodge,  his 
horses,  and  even  his  wife  and  children — and  when  any  vagabond 
who  has  money  enough  to  purchase  a  mule  can  go  into  a  village 
and  trade  against  them  successfully — without  withdrawing  entirely 
from  the  trade,  it  is  impossible  for  them  to  discontinue  its  use.  In 
their  opposition  to  this  practice,  the  company  is  sustained,  not  only 
by  their  obligation  to  the  laws  of  the  country  and  the  welfare  of  the 
Indians,  but  clearly,  also,  on  grounds  of  policy;  for,  with  heavy  and 
expensive  outfits,  they  contend  at  manifestly  great  disadvantage 
against  the  numerous  independent  and  unlicensed  traders,  who  enter 
the  country  from  various  avenues,  from  the  United  States  and  from 
Mexico,  having  no  other  stock  in  trade  than  some  kegs  of  liquor, 
which  they  sell  at  the  modest  price  of  thirty-six  dollars  per  gallon. 
The  difference  between  the  regular  trader  and  the  coureur  des  bois, 
as  the  French  call  the  itinerant  or  peddling  traders,  with  respect  to 
the  sale  of  spirits,  is  here  as  it  always  has  been,  fixed  and  permanent, 
and  growing  out  of  the  nature  of  their  trade.  The  regular  trader 
looks  ahead,  and  has  an  interest  in  the  preservation  of  the  Indians, 


point  for  Fort  Laramie.  "Messrs.  Lurty,  Harper  &  Farwell  arrived  yesterday 
from  Fort  John  |  Laramie].  They  left  Mr.  Kellogg  on  White  River  with  13 
wagons  and  carts  laden  with  387  Pack  Robes.  He  is  progressing  hut  slowly. 
...  I  expect  him  here  by  1st  September,  and  soon  as  possible  alter  his  arrival, 
I  will  start  two  mackinaw  boats  .  .  .  with  550  packs  for  St.  Louis"  (deland, 
205). 

219 


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220 


and  in  the  regular  pursuit  of  their  business,  and  the  preservation  of 
their  arms,  horses,  and  every  thing  necessary  to  their  future  and  per- 
manent success  in  hunting:  the  coureur  des  bois  has  no  permanent 
interest,  and  gets  what  he  can,  and  for  what  he  can,  from  every  In- 
dian he  meets,  even  at  the  risk  of  disabHng  him  from  doing  any 
thing  more  at  hunting. 

The  fort  had  a  very  cool  and  clean  appearance.  The  great  en- 
trance, in  which  I  found  the  gentlemen  assembled,  and  which  was 
floored,  and  about  fifteen  feet  long,  made  a  pleasant,  shaded  seat, 
through  which  the  breeze  swept  constantly;  for  this  country  is 
famous  for  high  winds.  In  the  course  of  conversation,  I  learned 
the  following  particulars,  which  will  explain  the  condition  of  the 
country:  For  several  years  the  Cheyennes  and  Sioux  had  gradually 
become  more  and  more  hostile  to  the  whites,  and  in  the  latter  part 
of  August,  1841,  had  had  a  rather  severe  engagement  with  a  party 
of  sixty  men,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Frapp,'*^  of  St.  Louis.  The 
Indians  lost  eight  or  ten  warriors,  and  the  whites  had  their  leader 
and  four  men  killed.  This  fight  took  place  on  the  waters  of  Snake 
river;  and  it  was  this  party,  on  their  return  under  Mr.  Bridger, 
which  had  spread  so  much  alarm  among  my  people.  In  the  course 
of  the  spring,  two  other  small  parties  had  been  cut  off  by  the  Sioux; 
one  on  their  return  from  the  Crow  nation,  and  the  other  among  the 
Black  Hills.  The  emigrants  to  Oregon  and  Mr.  Bridger's  party  met 
here,  a  few  days  before  our  arrival.  Division  and  misunderstandings 
had  grown  up  among  them;  they  were  already  somewhat  disheart- 
ened by  the  fatigue  of  their  long  and  wearisome  journey,  and  the 
feet  of  their  cattle  had  become  so  much  worn  as  to  be  scarcely  able 
to  travel.  In  this  situation,  they  were  not  likely  to  find  encourage- 
ment in  the  hostile  attitude  of  the  Indians,  and  the  new  and  unex- 
pected difficulties  which  sprang  up  before  them.  They  were  told  that 


41.  Henry  Fraeb,  who  had  been  one  of  the  founders  and  proprietors  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company.  After  that  company  was  dissolved  in  1834, 
Fraeb  engaged  in  trade  both  independently  and  in  partnership  with  various 
men.  In  1840-41  his  partner  was  Jim  Bridger.  JCF's  report  of  the  number  of 
men  killed  when  Fraeb  skirmished  with  the  Cheyennes,  Arapahos,  and  Sioux 
is  only  one  of  many  differing  reports  (l.  hafen  [2|).  In  Dale  L.  Morgan's 
sketch  of  Fraeb  (anderson,  312-15),  he  corrects  JCF  by  pointing  out  that  the 
Fraeb  skirmish  probably  occurred  early  in  August,  not  the  "latter  part."  The 
scene  was  the  stream  now  called  the  Little  Snake,  and  JCF  has  considerably 
exaggerated  the  effect  of  the  attack  on  emigration  and  the  morale  of  emigrants 
who  learned  of  the  affair. 


221 


the  country  was  entirely  swept  of  grass,  and  that  few  or  no  buffalo 
were  to  be  found  on  their  line  of  route;  and  with  their  weakened 
animals,  it  would  be  impossible  for  them  to  transport  their  heavy 
wagons  over  the  mountain.  Under  these  circumstances,  they  dis- 
posed of  their  wagons  and  cattle  at  the  forts;  selling  them  at  the 
prices  they  had  paid  in  the  States,  and  taking  in  exchange  coffee  and 
sugar  at  one  dollar  a  pound,  and  miserable  worn  out  horses,  which 
died  before  they  reached  the  mountains.  Mr.  Boudeau  informed  me 
that  he  had  purchased  thirty,  and  the  lower  fort  eighty  head  of  fine 
cattle,  some  of  them  of  the  Durham  breed.  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,'*'  whose 
name  and  high  reputation  are  familiar  to  all  who  interest  themselves 
in  the  history  of  this  country,  had  reached  Laramie  in  company  with 
Bridger;  and  the  emigrants  were  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  his 
services  to  guide  them  as  far  as  the  British  post  of  Fort  Hall,  about 
two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  beyond  the  South  Pass  of  the  moun- 
tains. They  had  started  for  this  post  on  the  4th  of  July,  and  im- 
mediately after  their  departure,  a  war  party  of  three  hundred  and 
fifty  braves  sat  out  upon  their  trail.  As  their  principal  chief  or  par- 
tisan had  lost  some  relations  in  the  recent  fight,  and  had  sworn  to 
kill  the  first  whites  on  his  path,  it  was  supposed  that  their  intention 
was  to  attack  the  party,  should  a  favorable  opportunity  offer;  or,  if 
they  were  foiled  in  their  principal  object  by  the  vigilance  of  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick,  content  themselves  with  stealing  horses  and  cutting  off 
stragglers.  These  had  been  gone  but  a  few  days  previous  to  our 
arrival. 

The  effect  of  the  engagement  with  Mr.  Frapp  had  been  greatly  to 
irritate  the  hostile  spirit  of  the  savages;  and  immediately  subse- 
quent to  that  event,  the  Gros  Ventre  Indians  had  united  with  the 
Oglallahs  and  Cheyennes,  and  taken  the  field  in  great  force,  so  far 
as  I  could  ascertain,  to  the  amount  of  eight  hundred  lodges.  Their 
object  was  to  make  an  attack  on  a  camp  of  Snake  and  Crow  Indians, 


42.  Thomas  Fitzpatrick  (1799-1854),  called  "Broken  Hand"  by  the  Indians, 
was  an  Irish  immigrant  who  became  one  of  the  greatest  of  the  "mountain 
men."  With  Bridger,  Fraeb,  and  others  he  had  organized  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tain Fur  Company  in  1830;  but  when  the  beaver  were  depleted  he  quit  trap- 
ping to  serve  as  a  guide  to  early  emigrant  trains  or  expeditions.  He  guided  the 
White-Hastings  party  to  Fort  Hall  from  Fort  Laramie  in  1842.  In  1843-45, 
he  would  serve  as  a  guide  for  ICF,  and  would  in  1846  become  an  Indian 
agent  for  tribes  on  the  upper  Platte  and  the  Arkansas  (DNA-75,,  LS,  38:357). 
See  the  biography  by  hafen  &  ghent. 


222 


and  a  body  of  about  one  hundred  whites,  who  had  made  a  rendez- 
vous somewhere  in  the  Green  river  valley,  or  on  the  Sweet  Water. 
After  spending  some  time  in  buffalo  hunting  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the  Medicine  Bow  mountain,  they  were  to  cross  over  to  the  Green 
river  waters,  and  return  to  Laramie  by  way  of  the  South  Pass  and 
the  Sweet  Water  valley.  According  to  the  calculation  of  the  Indians, 
Mr.  Boudeau  informed  me  they  were  somewhere  near  the  head 
of  the  Sweet  Water.  I  subsequently  learned  that  the  party  led  by  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick  were  overtaken  by  their  pursuers,  near  Rock  Inde- 
pendence, in  the  valley  of  the  Sweet  Water;  but  his  skill  and  reso- 
lution saved  them  from  surprise,  and  small  as  his  force  was,  they  did 
not  venture  to  attack  him  openly.  Here  they  lost  one  of  their  party 
by  an  accident,  and,  continuing  up  the  valley,  they  came  suddenly 
upon  the  large  village.  From  these  they  met  with  a  doubtful  recep- 
tion. Long  residence  and  familiar  acquaintance  had  given  to  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick  great  personal  influence  among  them,  and  a  portion  of 
them  were  disposed  to  let  him  pass  quietly;  but  by  far  the  greater 
number  were  inclined  to  hostile  measures;  and  the  chiefs  spent  the 
whole  of  one  night,  during  which  they  kept  the  little  party  in  the 
midst  of  them,  in  council,  debating  the  question  of  attacking  them 
the  next  day;  but  the  influence  of  "the  Broken  Hand,"  as  they 
called  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  (one  of  his  hands  having  been  shattered  by 
the  bursting  of  a  gun),  at  length  prevailed,  and  obtained  for  them 
an  unmolested  passage;  but  they  sternly  assured  him  that  this  path 
was  no  longer  open,  and  that  any  party  of  whites  which  should 
hereafter  be  found  upon  it,  would  meet  with  certain  destruction. 
From  all  that  I  have  been  able  to  learn,  I  have  no  doubt  that  the 
emigrants  owe  their  lives  to  Mr.  Fitzpatrick. 

Thus  it  would  appear  that  the  country  was  swarming  with  scat- 
tered war  parties;  and  when  I  heard  during  the  day,  the  various  con- 
tradictory and  exaggerated  rumors  which  were  incessantly  repeated 
to  them,  I  was  not  surprised  that  so  much  alarm  prevailed  among 
my  men.  Carson,  one  of  the  best  and  most  experienced  mountain- 
eers, fully  supported  the  opinion  given  by  Bridger  of  the  dangerous 
state  of  the  country,  and  openly  expressed  his  conviction  that  we 
could  not  escape  without  some  sharp  encounters  with  the  Indians 


43 


43.  The  draft  manuscript  has  Carson  saying  that  "all  of  us  should  never 
see  that  fort  again." 


223 


In  addition  to  this,  he  made  his  will,  and  among  the  circumstances 
which  were  constantly  occurring  to  increase  their  alarm,  this  was 
the  most  unfortunate;  and  I  found  that  a  number  of  my  party  had 
become  so  much  intimidated,  that  they  had  requested  to  be  dis- 
charged at.  this  place.  I  dined  to-day  at  Fort  Platte,  which  has  been 
mentioned  as  situated  at  the  junction  of  Laramie  river  with  the 
Nebraska.  Here  I  heard  a  confirmation  of  the  statements  given 
above.  The  party  of  warriors,  which  had  started  a  few  days  since  on 
the  trail  of  the  emigrants,  was  expected  back  in  fourteen  days,  to  join 
the  village  with  which  their  families  and  the  old  men  had  remained. 
The  arrival  of  the  latter  was  hourly  expected,  and  some  Indians  have 
just  come  in  who  had  left  them  on  the  Laramie  fork,  about  twenty 
miles  above.  Mr.  Bissonette,  one  of  the  traders  belonging  to  Fort 
Platte,  urged  the  propriety  of  taking  with  me  an  interpreter  and  two 
or  three  old  men  of  the  village,  in  which  case,  he  thought  there 
would  be  little  or  no  hazard  in  encountering  any  of  the  war  parties. 
The  principal  danger  was  in  being  attacked  before  they  should  know 
who  we  were. 

They  had  a  confused  idea  of  the  numbers  and  power  of  our  peo- 
ple, and  dreaded  to  bring  upon  themselves  the  military  force  of  the 
United  States.  This  gentleman,  who  spoke  the  language  fluently, 
offered  his  services  to  accompany  me  so  far  as  the  Red  Buttes.  He 
was  desirous  to  join  the  large  party  on  its  return,  for  purposes  of 
trade,  and  it  would  suit  his  views  as  well  as  my  own,  to  go  with  us 
to  the  Buttes;  beyond  which  point  it  would  be  impossible  to  prevail 
on  a  Sioux  to  venture,  on  account  of  their  fear  of  the  Crows.  From 
Fort  Laramie  to  the  Red  Buttes,  by  the  ordinary  road,  is  one  hundred 
and  thirty-five  miles;  and,  though  only  on  the  threshold  of  danger, 
it  seemed  better  to  secure  the  services  of  an  interpreter  [Joseph  Bis- 
sonette] for  the  partial  distance,  than  to  have  none  at  all. 

So  far  as  frequent  interruption  from  the  Indians  would  allow,  we 
occupied  ourselves  in  making  some  astronomical  calculations,  and 
bringing  up  the  general  map  to  this  stage  of  our  journey,  but  the 
tent  was  generally  occupied  by  a  succession  of  our  ceremonious 
visitors.  Some  came  for  presents,  and  others  for  information  of  our 
object  in  coming  to  the  country;  now  and  then  one  would  dart  up  to 
the  tent  on  horseback,  jerk  ofT  his  trappings,  and  stand  silently  at  the 
door,  holding  his  horse  by  the  halter,  signifying  his  desire  to  trade. 
Occasionally  a  savage  would  stalk  in,  with  an  invitation  to  a  feast  of 
honor,  a  dog  feast,  and  deliberately  sit  down  and  wait  quietly  until 

224 


I  was  ready  to  accompany  him/^  I  went  to  one;  the  women  and 
children  were  sitting  outside  the  lodge,  and  we  took  our  seats  on 
buffalo  robes  spread  around.  The  dog  was  in  a  large  pot  over  the 
fire  in  the  middle  of  the  lodge,  and  immediately  on  our  arrival  was 
dished  up  in  large  wooden  bowls,  one  of  which  was  handed  to  each. 
The  flesh  appeared  very  glutinous,  with  something  of  the  flavor  and 
appearance  of  mutton.  Feeling  something  move  behind  me,  I  looked 
round  and  found  that  I  had  taken  my  seat  among  a  litter  of  fat 
young  puppies.  Had  I  been  nice  in  such  matters,  the  prejudices  of 
civilization  might  have  interfered  with  my  tranquility;  but  fortu- 
nately, I  am  not  of  delicate  nerves,  and  continued  quietly  to  empty 
my  platter. 

The  weather  was  cloudy  at  evening,  with  a  moderate  south  wind, 
and  the  thermometer  at  6  o'clock  85°.  I  was  disappointed  in  my 
hope  of  obtaining  an  observation  of  an  occultation,  which  took  place 
about  midnight.  The  moon  brought  with  her  heavy  banks  of  clouds, 
through  which  she  scarcely  made  her  appearance  during  the  night. 

The  morning  of  the  18th  was  cloudy  and  calm,  the  thermometer 
at  6  o'clock  at  64°.  About  9,  with  a  moderate  wind  from  the  west,  a 
storm  of  rain  came  on,  accompanied  by  sharp  thunder  and  lightning, 
which  lasted  about  an  hour.  During  the  day  the  expected  village 
arrived,  consisting  principally  of  old  men,  women,  and  children. 
They  had  a  considerable  number  of  horses,  and  large  troops  of  dogs. 
Their  lodges  were  pitched  near  the  fort,  and  our  camp  was  con- 
stantly crowded  with  Indians  of  all  sizes,  from  morning  until  night; 
at  which  time  some  of  the  soldiers  generally  came  to  drive  them  all 
off  to  the  village.  My  tent  was  the  only  place  which  they  respected. 
Here  only  came  the  chiefs  and  men  of  distinction,  and  generally  one 
of  them  remained  to  drive  away  the  women  and  children.  The  nu- 
merous strange  instruments  applied  to  still  stranger  uses  excited  awe 
and  admiration  among  them,  and  those  which  I  used  in  talking  with 
the  sun  and  stars  they  looked  upon  with  especial  reverence,  as  mys- 
terious things  of  "great  medicine."  Of  the  three  barometers  which  I 
had  brought  with  me  thus  far  successfully,  I  found  that  two  were  out 
of  order,  and  spent  the  greater  part  of  the  19th  in  repairing  them,  an 
operation  of  no  small  difficulty  in  the  midst  of  the  incessant  inter- 


44.  "These  Indians  are  irksome  people,  pesky  as  children.  They  come  into 
the  tent,  sit  down,  and  smoke  their  pipes  as  if  they  were  at  home"  (preuss, 
29). 

225 


ruptions  to  which  I  was  subjected.  We  had  the  misfortune  to  break 
here  a  large  thermometer,  graduated  to  show  fifths  of  a  degree, 
which  I  used  to  ascertain  the  temperature  of  boiUng  water,  and  with 
which  I  had  promised  myself  some  interesting  experiments  in  the 
mountains.  We  had  but  one  remaining,  on  which  the  graduation 
extended  sufficiently  high,  and  this  was  too  small  for  exact  obser- 
vations. During  our  stay  here  the  men  had  been  engaged  in  making 
numerous  repairs,  arranging  pack  saddles,  and  otherwise  preparing 
for  the  chances  of  a  rough  road  and  mountain  travel.  All  things  of 
this  nature  being  ready,  I  gathered  them  around  me  in  the  evening, 
and  told  them  that  "I  had  determined  to  proceed  the  next  day.  They 
were  all  well  armed.  I  had  engaged  the  services  of  Mr.  Bissonette  as 
interpreter,  and  had  taken,  in  the  circumstances,  every  possible 
means  to  insure  our  safety.  In  the  rumors  we  had  heard  I  believed 
there  was  much  exaggeration,  and  then  they  were  men  accustomed 
to  this  kind  of  life  and  to  the  country;  and  that  these  were  the  dan- 
gers of  every  day  occurrence,  and  to  be  expected  in  the  ordinary 
course  of  their  service.  They  had  heard  of  the  unsettled  condition  of 
the  country  before  leaving  St.  Louis,  and  therefore  could  not  make  it 
a  reason  for  breaking  their  engagements.  Still  I  was  unwilling  to 
take  with  me  on  a  service  of  some  certain  danger,  men  on  whom  I 
could  not  rely;  and  as  I  had  understood  that  there  were  among  them 
some  who  were  disposed  to  cowardice,  and  anxious  to  return, 
they  had  but  to  come  forward  at  once  and  state  their  desire,  and  they 
would  be  discharged  with  the  amount  due  to  them  for  the  time  they 
had  served."  To  their  honor  be  it  said,  there  was  but  one  among 
them  who  had  the  face  to  come  forward  and  avail  himself  of  the 
permission."*^  I  asked  him  some  few  questions  in  order  to  expose 
him  to  the  ridicule  of  the  men,  and  let  him  go.  The  day  after  our 
departure  he  engaged  himself  to  one  of  the  forts,  and  set  off  with  a 
party  for  the  Upper  Missouri.  I  did  not  think  that  the  situation  of 
the  country  justified  me  in  taking  our  young  companions,  Messrs. 
Brant  and  Benton,  along  with  us.  In  case  of  misfortune,  it  would 


45.  Deleted  from  the  manuscript  draft:  "The  same  [Registe]  Larent  whom 
I  have  previously  had  occasion  to  mention.  He  was  a  well-looking,  robust  man 
of  thirty,  &  on  this  occasion  pleaded  sickness  as  a  reason  for  not  exposing 
himself  to  the  hardships  of  the  Mountains.  His  only  sickness  consisted  in 
overeating  himself  &  I  had  frequently  been  obliged  to  give  him  medicine,  to 
assist  him  in  getting  rid  of  the  enormous  quantity  of  animal  food  he  daily 
consumed." 

226 


have  been  thought,  at  the  least,  an  act  of  great  imprudence;  and 
therefore,  though  reluctantly,  I  determined  to  leave  them.  Randolph 
had  been  the  life  of  the  camp,  and  the  "petit  garcon"  was  much  re- 
gretted by  the  men,  to  whom  his  buoyant  spirits  had  afforded  great 
amusement.  They  all,  however,  agreed  in  the  propriety  of  leaving 
him  at  the  fort,  because,  as  they  said,  he  might  cost  the  lives  of  some 
of  the  men  in  a  fight  with  the  Indians. 

July  21. — A  portion  of  our  baggage,  with  our  field  notes  and  obser- 
vations, and  several  instruments,  were  left  at  the  fort.  One  of  the 
gentlemen,  Mr.  Galpin,  took  charge  of  a  barometer,  which  he  en- 
gaged to  observe  during  my  absence,  and  I  entrusted  to  Randolph, 
by  way  of  occupation,  the  regular  winding  up  of  two  of  my  chro- 
nometers, which  were  among  the  instruments  left.  Our  observations 
showed  that  the  chronometer  which  I  retained  for  the  continuation 
of  our  voyage  had  preserved  its  rate  in  a  most  satisfactory  manner. 
As  deduced  from  it,  the  longitude  of  Fort  Laramie  is  Ih.  01'  21",  and 
from  lunar  distance  7/!.  01' 29",  giving  for  the  adopted  longitude 
105°  21'  10".  Comparing  the  barometrical  observations  made  during 
our  stay  here  with  those  of  Dr.  G.  Engelman  at  St.  Louis,  we  find 
for  the  elevation  of  the  fort  above  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  4,470  feet.  The 
winter  climate  here  is  remarkably  mild  for  the  latitude;  but  rainy 
weather  is  frequent,  and  the  place  is  celebrated  for  winds,  of  which 
the  prevailing  one  is  west.  An  east  wind  in  summer  and  a  south 
wind  in  winter  is  said  to  be  always  accompanied  with  rain. 

We  were  ready  to  depart;  the  tents  were  struck,  the  mules  geared 
up,  and  our  horses  saddled,  and  we  walked  up  to  the  fort  to  take  the 
stirrup  cup  with  our  friends  in  an  excellent  home-brewed  prepara- 
tion.'*' While  thus  pleasantly  engaged,  seated  in  one  of  the  little  cool 


46.  "We  left  the  large  chronometer  in  Laramie;  Fremont  succeeded  in  mak- 
ing it  run  again,  and  he  was  jubilant  when  he  heard  again  the  ticking  and 
tick-tocking.  In  comparing  we  found,  however,  that  every  twenty-four  hours 
it  went  wrong  by  about  one  hour.  Oh,  you  American  blockheads!"  (preuss, 
30-31). 

47.  Oliver  P.  Wiggins,  who  was  probably  born  on  Grand  Island  in  the 
Niagara  River  in  1823,  claimed  that  he  and  a  few  friends  joined  the  expedi- 
tion at  Fort  Laramie  and  accompanied  it  westward  "because  they  could  be 
depended  on  to  fight  in  Indian  dangers"  ("Early  Far  West  Notes,"  F.  W. 
Cragin,  Western  History  Collection,  CoU).  In  carson,  20-22,  Harvey  L. 
Carter  not  only  points  out  the  preposterous  nature  of  this  claim,  which  had 
been  accepted  by  such  biographers  as  Edwin  L.  Sabin  and  M.  Morgan  Ester- 
green,  but  also  questions  his  whole  association  with  Kit  Carson  at  Taos.  In 

227 


chambers,  at  the  door  of  which  a  man  had  been  stationed  to  prevent 
all  intrusion  from  the  Indians,  a  number  of  chiefs,  several  of  them 
powerful  fine-looking  men,  forced  their  way  into  the  room  in  spite 
of  all  opposition.  Handing  me  the  following  letter,  they  took  their 
seats  in  silence: 

"Fort  Platte,  ]uly  1, 1842. 

"Mr.  Fremont:  Les  chefs  s'etant  assembles  presentement  me  disent 
de  vous  avertir  de  ne  point  vous  mettre  en  route,  avant  que  le  parti 
de  jeunes  gens  qui  est  en  dehors,  soient  de  retour.  Deplus  ils  me 
disent  qu'ils  sont  tres  certain  qu'ils  feront  feu,  a  la  premiere  rencontre. 
Ils  doivent  etre  de  retour  dans  sept  a  huit  jours;  excusez  si  je  vous 
fais  cos  observations,  mais  il  me  semble  qu'il  est  mon  devoir  de  vous 
avertir  du  danger.  Meme  de  plus,  les  chefs  sont  les  porteurs  de  ce 
billet,  qui  vous  defendent  de  partir  avant  le  retour  des  guerriers. 

"Je  suis  votre  ob't  servt'r, 

"Joseph  Bissonette, 
"Par  L.  B.  Chartrain.'"' 

Les  noms  de  quelques  chefs: 

Le  Chapeau  de  Loutre,  le  Casseur  de  Fleches,  la  Nuit  Noir,  La 
Queue  de  Boeuf . 

{Translation^ 

"Fort  Platte,  ]uly  1,  1842. 

"Mr.  Fremont:  The  chiefs  having  assembled  in  council,  have  just 
told  me  to  warn  you  not  to  set  out  before  the  party  of  young  men 
which  is  now  out  shall  have  returned.  Furthermore,  they  tell  me 
that  they  are  very  sure  they  will  fire  upon  you  as  soon  as  they  meet 
you.  They  are  expected  back  in  seven  or  eight  days;  excuse  me  for 
making  these  observations,  but  it  seems  my  duty  to  warn  you  of 


fact,  Carter  is  reasonably  certain  that  Wiggins,  who  has  been  exposed  as  a 
complete  charlatan,  did  not  come  west  before  1850,  and  then  only  as  far  as 
Scottsbluff,  Nebr. 

48.  L.  B.  Chartrain  probably  left  Independence  with  a  Sibille  &  Adams 
party  in  the  fall  of  1841.  The  fragmentary  diaries  of  Adams  (MoSHi)  first 
mention  him  in  December  of  that  year,  saying  he  has  gone  to  trade  on 
Cheyenne  waters.  He  is  last  mentioned  in  the  diaries  in  1845. 

228 


danger.  Moreover,  the  chiefs  who  prohibit  your  setting  out  before 
the  return  of  the  warriors  are  the  bearers  of  this  note. 
"I  am  your  obedient  servant, 

"Joseph  Bissonette, 
"By  L.  B.  Chartrain." 

"Names  of  some  of  the  chiefs: 

"The  Otter  Hat,  the  Breaker  of  Arrows,  the  Black  Night,  the 
Bull's  Tail." 

After  reading  this,  I  mentioned  its  purport  to  my  companions,  and 
seeing  that  all  were  fully  possessed  of  its  contents,  one  of  the  Indians 
rose  up,  and,  having  first  shaken  hands  with  me,  spoke  as  follows: 

"You  have  come  among  us  at  a  bad  time.  Some  of  our  people  have 
been  killed,  and  our  young  men,  who  are  gone  to  the  mountains, 
are  eager  to  avenge  the  blood  of  their  relations,  which  has  been  shed 
by  the  whites.  Our  young  men  are  bad,  and  if  they  meet  you  they 
will  believe  that  you  are  carrying  goods  and  ammunition  to  their 
enemies,  and  will  fire  upon  you.  You  have  told  us  that  this  will 
make  war.  We  know  that  our  great  father  has  many  soldiers  and 
big  guns,  and  we  are  anxious  to  have  our  lives.  We  love  the  whites, 
and  are  desirous  of  peace.  Thinking  of  all  these  things,  we  have 
determined  to  keep  you  here  until  our  warriors  return.  We  are  glad 
to  see  you  among  us.  Our  father  is  rich,  and  we  expected  that  you 
would  have  brought  presents  to  us — horses,  and  guns,  and  blankets. 
But  we  are  glad  to  see  you.  We  look  upon  your  coming  as  the  light 
which  goes  before  the  sun ;  for  you  will  tell  our  great  father  that  you 
have  seen  us,  and  that  we  are  naked  and  poor,  and  have  nothing  to 
eat,  and  he  will  send  us  all  these  things."  He  was  followed  by  others 
to  the  same  effect. 

The  observations  of  the  savage  appeared  reasonable;  but  I  was 
aware  that  they  had  in  view  only  the  present  object  of  detaining  me, 
and  were  unwilling  I  should  go  further  into  the  country.  In  reply,  I 
asked  them,  through  the  interpretation  of  Mr.  Boudeau,  to  select  two 
or  three  of  their  number  to  accompany  us  until  we  should  meet  their 
people — they  should  spread  their  robes  in  my  tent  and  eat  at  my 
table,  and  on  our  return  I  would  give  them  presents  in  reward  of 
their  services.  They  declined,  saying  that  there  were  no  young  men 
left  in  the  village,  and  that  they  were  too  old  to  travel  so  many  days 
on  horseback,  and  preferred  now  to  smoke  their  pipes  in  the  lodge, 

229 


and  let  the  warriors  go  on  the  war-path.  Besides,  they  had  no  power 
over  the  young  men,  and  were  afraid  to  interfere  with  them.  In  my 
turn  I  addressed  them:  "You  say  that  you  love  the  whites;  why  have 
you  killed  so  many  already  this  spring?  You  say  that  you  love  the 
whites,  and  are  full  of  many  expressions  of  friendship  to  us,  but  you 
are  not  willing  to  undergo  the  fatigue  of  a  few  days'  ride  to  save  our 
lives.  We  do  not  believe  what  you  have  said,  and  will  not  listen  to 
you.  Whatever  a  chief  among  us  tells  his  soldiers  to  do,  is  done.  We 
are  the  soldiers  of  the  great  chief,  your  father.  He  has  told  us  to 
come  here  and  see  this  country,  and  all  the  Indians,  his  children.  Why 
should  we  not  go  ?  Before  we  came,  we  heard  that  you  had  killed  his 
people,  and  ceased  to  be  his  children;  but  we  came  among  you  peace- 
ably, holding  out  our  hands.  Now  we  find  that  the  stories  we  heard 
are  not  lies,  and  that  you  are  no  longer  his  friends  and  children.  We 
have  thrown  away  our  bodies,  and  will  not  turn  back.  When  you 
told  us  that  your  young  men  would  kill  us,  you  did  not  know  that 
our  hearts  were  strong,  and  you  did  not  see  the  rifles  which  my 
young  men  carry  in  their  hands.  We  are  few,  and  you  are  many,  and 
may  kill  us  all;  but  there  will  be  much  crying  in  your  villages,  for 
many  of  your  young  men  will  stay  behind,  and  forget  to  return  with 
your  warriors  from  the  mountains.  Do  you  think  that  our  great  chief 
will  let  his  soldiers  die,  and  forget  to  cover  their  graves  ?  Before  the 
snows  melt  again,  his  warriors  will  sweep  away  your  villages  as  the 
fire  does  the  prairie  in  the  autumn.  See!  I  have  pulled  down  my 
white  houses,  and  my  people  are  ready:  when  the  sun  is  ten  paces 
higher,  we  shall  be  on  the  march.  If  you  have  anything  to  tell  us,  you 
will  say  it  soon."  I  broke  up  the  conference,  as  I  could  do  nothing 
with  these  people,  and  being  resolved  to  proceed,  nothing  was  to  be 
gained  by  delay.  Accompanied  by  our  hospitable  friends,  we  re- 
turned to  the  camp.  We  had  mounted  our  horses,  and  our  parting 
salutations  had  been  exchanged,  when  one  of  the  chiefs,  the  Bull's 
Tail,  arrived  to  tell  me  that  they  had  determined  to  send  a  young 
man  with  us;  and  if  I  would  point  out  the  place  of  our  evening 
camp,  he  should  join  us  there.  "The  young  man  is  poor,"  said  he; 
"he  has  no  horse,  and  expects  you  to  give  him  one."  I  described  to 
him  the  place  where  I  intended  to  encamp,  and  shaking  hands,  in 
a  few  minutes  we  were  among  the  hills,  and  this  last  habitation  of 
whites  shut  out  from  our  view. 

The  road  led  over  an  interesting  plateau  between  the  north  fork 
of  the  Platte  on  the  right  and  Laramie  river  on  the  left.  At  the  dis- 

230 


tance  of  ten  miles  from  the  fort  we  entered  the  sandy  bed  of  a  creek, 
a  kind  of  defile,  shaded  by  precipitous  rocks,  down  which  we  wound 
our  way  for  several  hundred  yards  to  a  place  where,  on  the  left  bank, 
a  very  large  spring  gushes  with  considerable  noise  and  force  out  of 
the  limestone  rock.  It  is  called  "the  Warm  Spring,"  and  furnishes  to 
the  hitherto  dry  bed  of  the  creek  a  considerable  rivulet.  On  the  op- 
posite side,  a  little  below  the  spring,  is  a  lofty  limestone  escarpment, 
partially  shaded  by  a  grove  of  large  trees,  whose  green  foliage,  in 
contrast  with  the  whiteness  of  the  rock,  renders  this  a  picturesque 
locality.  The  rock  is  fossiliferous,  and,  so  far  as  I  was  able  to  deter- 
mine the  character  of  the  fossils,  belongs  to  the  carboniferous  lime- 
stone of  the  Missouri  river,  and  is  probably  the  western  limit  of  that 
formation.  Beyond  this  point  I  met  with  no  fossils  of  any  description. 
I  was  desirous  to  visit  the  Platte  near  the  point  where  it  leaves  the 
Black  Hills,  and  therefore  followed  this  stream,  for  two  or  three 
miles,  to  the  mouth;  where  I  encamped  on  a  spot  which  afforded 
good  grass  and  prele  (equisetum)  for  our  animals.  Our  tents  having 
been  found  too  thin  to  protect  ourselves  and  the  instruments  from 
the  rains,  which  in  this  elevated  country  are  attended  with  cold  and 
unpleasant  weather,  I  had  procured  from  the  Indians  at  Laramie  a 
tolerably  large  lodge,  about  eighteen  feet  in  diameter  and  twenty  feet 
in  height.  Such  a  lodge,  when  properly  pitched,  is,  from  its  conical 
form,  almost  perfectly  secure  against  the  violent  winds  which  are 
frequent  in  this  region,  and  with  a  fire  in  the  centre  is  a  dry  and 
warm  shelter  in  bad  weather.  By  raising  the  lower  part  so  as  to 
permit  the  breeze  to  pass  freely,  it  is  converted  into  a  pleasant  sum- 
mer residence,  with  the  extraordinary  advantage  of  being  entirely 
free  from  mosquitoes,  one  of  which  I  have  never  seen  in  an  Indian 
lodge.  While  we  were  engaged  very  unskilfully  in  erecting  this,  the 
interpreter,  Mr.  Bissonette,  arrived,  accompanied  by  the  Indian  and 
his  wife.  She  laughed  at  our  awkwardness,  and  offered  her  assistance, 
of  which  we  were  frequently  afterward  obliged  to  avail  ourselves, 
before  the  men  acquired  suflBcient  expertness  to  pitch  it  without 
difficulty.  From  this  place  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  gorge  where  the 
Platte  issues  from  the  Black  Hills,  changing  its  character  abruptly 
from  a  mountain  stream  into  a  river  of  the  plains.^**  Immediately 


49.  The  trail  the  party  has  heen  following  has  not  run  directly  along  the 
banks  of  the  North  Platte,  so  JCF  has  come  down  to  the  river  to  inspect  the 
rough  country   in   the   vicinity   of  Guernsey,  Wyo.   The  original   course   and 

231 


around  us  the  valley  of  the  stream  was  tolerably  open,  and  at  the  dis- 
tance of  a  few  miles,  where  the  river  had  cut  its  way  through  the 
hills,  was  the  narrow  cleft,  on  one  side  of  which  a  lofty  precipice  of 
bright  red  rock  rose  vertically  above  the  low  hills  which  lay  between 
us. 

]uly  22. — In  the  morning,  while  breakfast  was  being  prepared,  I 
visited  this  place  with  my  favorite  man,  Basil  Lajeunesse.  Entering 
so  far  as  there  was  footing  for  the  mules,  we  dismounted,  and,  tying 
our  animals,  continued  our  way  on  foot.  Like  the  whole  country,  the 
scenery  of  the  river  had  undergone  an  entire  change,  and  was  in  this 
place  the  most  beautiful  I  have  ever  seen.  The  breadth  of  the  stream, 
generally  near  that  of  its  valley,  was  from  two  to  three  hundred  feet, 
with  a  swift  current,  occasionally  broken  by  rapids,  and  the  water 
perfectly  clear.  On  either  side  rose  the  red  precipices,  vertical,  and 
sometimes  overhanging,  two  and  four  hundred  feet  in  height, 
crowned  with  green  summits,  on  which  were  scattered  a  few  pines. 
At  the  foot  of  the  rocks  was  the  usual  detritus,  formed  of  masses 
fallen  from  above.  Among  the  pines  that  grew  here  and  on  the  oc- 
casional banks,  were  the  cherry,  {cerasus  virginiana)  currants,  and 
grains  de  boeuf  {shepherdia  argentea.)  Viewed  in  the  sunshine  of  a 
pleasant  morning,  the  scenery  was  of  a  most  striking  and  romantic 
beauty,  which  arose  from  the  picturesque  disposition  of  the  objects 
and  the  vivid  contrast  of  colors.  I  thought  with  much  pleasure  of  our 
approaching  descent  in  the  canoe  through  such  interesting  places; 
and,  in  the  expectation  of  being  able  at  that  time  to  give  to  them  a 
full  examination,  did  not  now  dwell  so  much  as  might  have  been 
desirable  upon  the  geological  formations  along  the  line  of  the  river, 
where  they  are  developed  with  great  clearness.  The  upper  portion  of 
the  red  strata  consists  of  very  compact  clay,  in  which  are  occasionally 
seen  imbedded  large  pebbles.  Below  was  a  stratum  of  compact  red 
sandstone,  changing  a  little  above  the  river  into  a  very  hard  siliceous 
limestone.  There  is  a  small  but  handsome  open  prairie  immediately 
below  this  place,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  which  would  be  a 


nature  of  the  river,  west  of  Guernsey,  are  now  obscured  by  the  Guernsey 
Reservoir  and  a  smaller  man-made  body  of  water,  Newell  Bay. 

Dale  L.  Morgan,  in  his  correspondence  with  us,  believes  it  clear  from  JCF's 
text  that  he  took  what  later  became  known  as  the  Hill  Road  from  Fort  Lara- 
mie to  Warm  Spring  (thus  reaching  Warm  Spring  Canyon  above  the  spring), 
not  the  River  Road  traveled  by  the  Mormons  in  1847,  which  kept  to  the  banks 
of  the  North  Platte  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  Warm  Spring  Canyon.  This  Hill 
Road  followed  the  divide  between  the  Laramie  and  North  Platte  rivers. 

232 


good  locality  for  a  military  post.  There  are  some  open  groves  of  Cot- 
tonwood on  the  Platte.  The  small  stream  which  comes  in  at  this 
place  is  well  timbered  with  pine,  and  good  building  rock  is  abun- 
dant. 

If  it  is  in  contemplation  to  keep  open  the  communications  with 
Oregon  Territory,  a  show  of  military  force  in  this  country  is  abso- 
lutely necessary;  and  a  combination  of  advantages  renders  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Fort  Laramie  the  most  suitable  place,  on  the  line  of  the 
Platte,  for  the  establishment  of  a  military  post.  It  is  connected  with 
the  mouth  of  the  Platte  and  the  Upper  Missouri  by  excellent  roads, 
which  are  in  frequent  use,  and  would  not  in  any  way  interfere  with 
the  range  of  the  buffalo,  on  which  the  neighboring  Indians  mainly 
depend  for  support.  It  would  render  any  posts  on  the  Lower  Platte 
unnecessary;  the  ordinary  communication  between  it  and  the  Mis- 
souri being  sufficient  to  control  the  intermediate  Indians.  It  would 
operate  effectually  to  prevent  any  such  coalitions  as  are  now  formed 
among  the  Gros  Ventres,  Sioux,  Cheyennes,  and  other  Indians,  and 
would  keep  the  Oregon  road  through  the  valley  of  the  Sweet  Water 
and  the  South  Pass  of  the  mountains  constantly  open.  A  glance  at 
the  map'^"  which  accompanies  this  report,  will  show  that  it  lies  at 
the  foot  of  a  broken  and  mountainous  region,  along  which,  by  the 
establishment  of  small  posts,  in  the  neighborhood  of  St.  Vrain's  fort, 
on  the  South  fork  of  the  Platte,  and  Bent's  fort,  on  the  Arkansas,  a 
line  of  communication  would  be  formed,  by  good  wagon  roads,  with 
our  southern  military  posts,  which  would  entirely  command  the 
mountain  passes,  hold  some  of  the  most  troublesome  tribes  in  check, 
and  protect  and  facilitate  our  intercourse  with  the  neighboring  Span- 
ish settlements.  The  vallies  of  the  rivers  on  which  they  would  be 
situated  are  fertile;  the  country  which  supports  immense  herds  of 
buffalo  is  admirably  adapted  to  grazing,  and  herds  of  catde  might 
be  maintained  by  the  posts,  or  obtained  from  the  Spanish  country, 
which  already  supplies  a  portion  of  their  provisions  to  the  trading 
posts  mentioned  above. 

Just  as  we  were  leaving  the  camp  this  morning  our  Indian  came 
up,  and  stated  his  intention  of  not  proceeding  any  further  until  he 
had  seen  the  horse  which  I  intended  to  give  him.  I  felt  strongly 
tempted  to  drive  him  out  of  the  camp,  but  his  presence  appeared  to 
give  confidence  to  my  men,  and  the  interpreter  thought  it  absolutely 


50.  See  Map  2  (Map  Portfolio). 

233 


necessary.  I  was,  therefore,  obliged  to  do  what  he  requested,  and 
pointed  out  the  animal,  with  which  he  seemed  satisfied,  and  we  con- 
tinued our  journey.  I  had  imagined  that  Mr.  Rissonette's  long  resi- 
dence had  made  him  acquainted  with  the  country,  and,  according  to 
his  advice,  proceeded  directly  forward  without  attempting  to  regain 
the  usual  road.  He  afterward  informed  me  that  he  had  rarely  ever 
lost  sight  of  the  fort;  but  the  effect  of  the  mistake  was  to  involve  us 
for  a  day  or  two  among  the  hills,  where,  although  we  lost  no  time, 
we  encountered  an  exceedingly  rough  road. 

To  the  south,  along  our  line  of  march  to-day,  the  main  chain  of 
the  Black  or  Laramie  Hills'^^  rises  precipitatous  [precipitously]. 
Time  did  not  permit  me  to  visit  them,  but,  from  comparative  infor- 
mation, the  ridge  is  composed  of  the  coarse  sandstone  or  conglom- 
erate hereafter  described.  It  appears  to  enter  the  region  of  clouds, 
which  are  arrested  in  their  course  and  lie  in  masses  along  the  sum- 
mits. An  inverted  cone  of  black  cloud  (cumulus)  rested  during  all 
the  forenoon  on  the  lofty  peak  of  Laramie  Mountain,  which  I  esti- 
mated to  be  about  two  thousand  feet  above  the  fort,  or  six  thousand 
five  hundred  above  the  sea.  We  halted  to  noon  on  the  Fourche 
Amere  [Cottonwood  Creek],  so  called  from  being  timbered  prin- 
cipally with  the  Hard  amere  (a  species  of  poplar),  with  which  the 
valley  of  the  little  stream  is  tolerably  well  wooded,  and  which,  with 
large  expansive  summits,  grows  to  the  height  of  sixty  or  seventy 
feet. 

The  bed  of  the  creek  is  sand  and  gravel,  the  water  dispersed  over 
the  broad  bed  in  several  shallow  streams.  We  found  here,  on  the 
right  bank,  in  the  shade  of  the  trees,  a  fine  spring  of  very  cold  water. 
It  will  be  remarked  that  I  do  not  mention,  in  this  portion  of  the 
journey,  the  temperature  of  the  air,  sand,  springs,  &c.,  an  omission 
which  will  be  explained  in  the  course  of  the  narrative.  In  my  search 
for  plants,  I  was  well  rewarded  at  this  place. 

With  the  change  in  the  geological  formation,  on  leaving  Fort 
Laramie,  the  whole  face  of  the  country  has  entirely  altered  its  ap- 
pearance. Eastward  of  that  meridian,  the  principal  objects  which 
strike  the  eye  of  a  traveller  are  the  absence  of  timber,  and  the  im- 
mense expanse  of  prairie,  covered  with  the  verdure  of  rich  grasses, 
and  highly  adapted  for  pasturage.  Wherever  they  are  not  disturbed 
by  the  vicinity  of  man,  large  herds  of  buffalo  give  animation  to  this 


5L  The  Laramie  Range  of  the  Rockies. 

234 


country.  Westward  of  Laramie  river,  the  region  is  sandy  and  ap- 
parently sterile;  and  the  place  of  the  grass  is  usurped  by  the  artemisia 
and  other  odoriferous  plants,  to  whose  growth  the  sandy  soil  and  dry 
air  of  this  elevated  region  seem  highly  favorable. 

One  of  the  prominent  characteristics  in  the  face  of  the  country  is 
the  extraordinary  abundance  of  the  artemisias.  They  grow  every 
where,  on  the  hills,  and  over  the  river  bottoms,  in  tough,  twisted, 
wiry  clumps;  and,  wherever  the  beaten  track  was  left,  they  rendered 
the  progress  of  the  carts  rough  and  slow.  As  the  country  increased  in 
elevation  on  our  advance  to  the  west,  they  increased  in  size;  and  the 
whole  air  is  strongly  impregnated  and  saturated  with  the  odor  of 
camphor  and  spirits  of  turpentine  which  belongs  to  this  plant.  This 
climate  has  been  found  very  favorable  to  the  restoration  of  health, 
particularly  in  cases  of  consumption ;  and  possibly  the  respiration  of 
air,  so  highly  impregnated  by  aromatic  plants,  may  have  some  in- 
fluence. 

Our  dried  meat  had  given  out,  and  we  began  to  be  in  want  of 
food;  but  one  of  the  hunters  killed  an  antelope  this  evening,  which 
afforded  some  relief,  although  it  did  not  go  far  among  so  many 
hungry  men.  At  8  o'clock  at  night,  after  a  march  of  twenty-seven 
miles,  we  reached  our  proposed  encampment  on  the  Fer-a-Cheval, 
or  Horse  Shoe  creek.  Here  we  found  good  grass,  with  a  great  quan- 
tity of  prele,  which  furnished  good  food  for  our  tired  animals.  This 
creek  is  well  timbered,  principally  with  Hard  amere,  and,  with  the 
exception  of  Deer  creek,  which  we  had  not  yet  reached,  is  the  largest 
affluent  of  the  right  bank  between  Laramie  and  the  mouth  of  the 
Sweet  Water. 

]uly  23. — The  present  year  had  been  one  of  unparalleled  drought, 
and  throughout  the  country  the  water  had  been  almost  dried  up.  By 
availing  themselves  of  the  annual  rise,  the  traders  had  invariably  suc- 
ceeded in  carrying  their  furs  to  the  Missouri ;  but  this  season,  as  has 
already  been  mentioned,  on  both  forks  of  the  Platte  they  had  en- 
tirely failed.  The  greater  number  of  the  springs  and  many  of  the 
streams  which  made  halting  places  for  the  voyageurs,  had  been  dried 
up.  Every  where  the  soil  looked  parched  and  burnt,  the  scanty  yellow 
grass  crisped  under  the  foot,  and  even  the  hardiest  plants  were  de- 
stroyed by  want  of  moisture.  I  think  it  necessary  to  mention  this 
fact,  because  to  the  rapid  evaporation  in  such  an  elevated  region, 
nearly  5,000  feet  above  the  sea,  almost  wholly  unprotected  by  timber, 
should  be  attributed  much  of  the  sterile  appearance  of  the  country, 

235 


in  the  destruction  of  vegetation,  and  the  numerous  saline  efflores- 
cences which  covered  the  ground.  Such  I  afterward  found  to  be  the 
case. 

I  was  informed  that  the  roving  villages  of  Indians  and  travellers 
had  never  met  with  difficulty  in  finding  an  abundance  of  grass  for 
their  horses;  and  now  it  was  after  great  search  that  we  were  able  to 
find  a  scanty  patch  of  grass,  sufficient  to  keep  them  from  sinking, 
and  in  the  course  of  a  day  or  two  they  began  to  suffer  very  much. 
We  found  none  to-day  at  noon,  and,  in  the  course  of  our  search  on 
the  Platte,  came  to  a  grove  of  cotton  wood,  where  some  Indian  village 
had  recently  encamped.  Boughs  of  the  cottonwood  yet  green  covered 
the  ground,  which  the  Indians  had  cut  down  to  feed  their  horses 
upon.  It  is  only  in  the  winter  that  recourse  is  had  to  this  means  of 
sustaining  them;  and  their  resort  to  it  at  this  time  was  a  striking 
evidence  of  the  state  of  the  country.  We  followed  their  example,  and 
turned  our  horses  into  a  grove  of  young  poplars.  This  began  to  pre- 
sent itself  as  a  very  serious  evil,  for  on  our  animals  depended  alto- 
gether the  further  prosecution  of  our  journey. 

Shortly  after  we  had  left  this  place,  the  scouts  came  galloping  in 
with  the  alarm  of  Indians.  We  turned  in  immediately  toward  the  river, 
which  here  had  a  steep  high  bank,  where  we  formed  with  the  carts  a 
very  close  barricade,  resting  on  the  river,  within  which  the  animals 
were  strongly  hobbled  and  picketed.  The  guns  were  discharged  and 
reloaded,  and  men  thrown  forward,  under  cover  of  the  bank,  in  the 
direction  by  which  the  Indians  were  expected.  Our  interpreter,  who, 
with  the  Indian,  had  gone  to  meet  them,  came  in  in  about  ten 
minutes,  accompanied  by  two  Sioux.  They  looked  sulky,  and  we 
could  obtain  from  them  only  some  confused  information.  We  learned 
that  they  belonged  to  the  party  which  had  been  on  the  trail  of  the 
emigrants,  whom  they  had  overtaken  at  Rock  Independence,  on  the 
Sweet  Water.  Here  the  party  had  disagreed,  and  came  nigh  fighting 
among  themselves.  One  portion  were  desirous  of  attacking  the 
whites,  but  the  others  were  opposed  to  it;  and  finally  they  had 
broken  up  into  small  bands  and  dispersed  over  the  country.  The 
greater  portion  of  them  had  gone  over  into  the  territory  of  the 
Crows,  and  intended  to  return  by  way  of  the  Wind  river  valley,  in 
the  hope  of  being  able  to  fall  upon  some  small  parties  of  Crow 
Indians.  The  remainder  were  returning  down  the  Platte  in  scattered 
parties  of  ten  and  twenty,  and  those  whom  we  had  encountered  be- 
longed to  those  who  had  advocated  an  attack  on  the  emigrants. 

236 


Several  of  the  men  suggested  shooting  them  on  the  spot;  but  I 
promptly  discountenanced  any  such  proceeding.  They  further  in- 
formed me  that  buflfalo  were  very  scarce,  and  little  or  no  grass  to 
be  found.  There  had  been  no  rain,  and  innumerable  quantities  of 
grasshoppers  had  destroyed  the  grass.  This  insect  had  been  so  nu- 
merous since  leaving  Fort  Laramie,  that  the  ground  seemed  alive 
with  them;  and  in  walking,  a  little  moving  cloud  preceded  our  foot- 
steps. This  was  bad  news.  No  grass,  no  buffalo — food  for  neither 
horse  nor  man.  I  gave  them  some  plugs  of  tobacco  and  they  went 
off,  apparently  well  satisfied  to  be  clear  of  us;  for  my  men  did  not 
look  upon  them  very  lovingly,  and  they  glanced  suspiciously  at  our 
warlike  preparations,  and  the  little  ring  of  rifles  which  surrounded 
them.  They  were  evidently  in  a  bad  humor,  and  shot  one  of  their 
horses  when  they  had  left  us  a  short  distance. 

We  continued  our  march,  and  after  a  journey  of  about  twenty- 
one  miles,  encamped  on  the  Platte.  During  the  day,  I  had  occasion- 
ally remarked  among  the  hills  the  psomlea  esculenta,  the  bread  root 
of  the  Indians.  The  Sioux  use  this  root  very  extensively,  and  I  have 
frequently  met  with  it  among  them,  cut  into  thin  slices  and  dried.  In 
the  course  of  the  evening  we  were  visited  by  six  Indians,  who  told 
us  that  a  larger  party  was  encamped  a  few  miles  above.  Astronomi- 
cal observations  placed  us  in  longitude  106°  03'  40",  and  latitude 
42°  39' 25". 

We  made  the  next  day  twenty-two  miles,  and  encamped  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Platte,  where  a  handsome  meadow  afforded  toler- 
ably good  grass.  There  were  the  remains  of  an  old  fort  here  [La- 
bonte's  Camp],  thrown  up  in  some  sudden  emergency,  and  on  the 
opposite  side  was  a  picturesque  bluff  of  ferruginous  sandstone.  There 
was  a  handsome  grove  a  little  above,  and  scattered  groups  of  trees 
bordered  the  river.  Buffalo  made  their  appearance  this  afternoon, 
and  the  hunters  came  in  shortly  after  we  had  encamped,  with  three 
fine  cows.  The  night  was  fine,  and  observations  gave  for  the  latitude 
of  the  camp,  42°  47' 40". 

]uly  25. — We  made  but  thirteen  miles  this  day,  and  encamped 
about  noon  in  a  pleasant  grove  on  the  right  bank.  Low  scaffolds 
were  erected,  upon  which  the  meat  was  laid,  cut  up  into  thin  strips, 
and  small  fires  kindled  below.  Our  object  was  to  profit  by  the 
vicinity  of  the  buffalo,  to  lay  in  a  stock  of  provisions  for  ten  or 
fifteen  days.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  the  hunters  brought  in 
five  or  six  cows,  and  all  hands  were  kept  busily  employed  in  pre- 

237 


paring  the  meat,  to  the  drying  of  which  the  guard  attended  during 
the  night.  Our  people  had  recovered  their  gaiety,  and  the  busy  fig- 
ures around  the  blazing  fires  gave  a  picturesque  air  to  the  camp.  A 
very  serious  accident  occurred  this  morning,  in  the  breaking  of  one 
of  the  barometers.  These  had  been  the  object  of  my  constant  solici- 
tude, and,  as  I  had  intended  them  principally  for  mountain  service, 
I  had  used  them  as  seldom  as  possible;  taking  them  always  down  at 
night,  and  on  the  occurrence  of  storms,  in  order  to  lessen  the  chances 
of  being  broken.  I  was  reduced  to  one,  a  standard  barometer  of 
Troughton's  construction.  This  I  determined  to  preserve,  if  possible. 
The  latitude  is  42°  51'  35",  and  by  a  mean  of  the  results  from  chro- 
nometer and  lunar  distances,  the  adopted  longitude  of  this  camp  is 
106°  25'  10". 

]uly  26. — Early  this  morning  we  were  again  in  motion.  We  had  a 
stock  of  provisions  for  fifteen  days,  carefully  stored  away  in  the 
carts,  and  this  I  resolved  should  only  be  encroached  upon  when  our 
rifles  should  fail  to  procure  us  present  support,  I  determined  to 
reach  the  mountains,  if  it  were  in  any  way  possible.  In  the  mean- 
time, buffalo  were  plenty.  In  six  miles  from  our  encampment, 
which,  by  way  of  distinction,  we  shall  call  Dried  Meat  camp,  we 
crossed  a  handsome  stream,  called  La  Fourche  Boisee  [Box  Elder 
Creek].  It  is  well  timbered,  and  among  the  flowers  in  bloom  on 
banks,  I  remarked  several  asters. 

Five  miles  further  we  made  our  noon  halt,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Platte,  in  the  shade  of  some  cottonwoods.  There  were  here,  as  gen- 
erally now  along  the  river,  thickets  of  hippophaoe,  the  grains  de 
bocuf  of  the  country.  They  were  of  two  kinds;  one  bearing  a  red 
berry,  (the  shepherdia  argentia  of  Nuttall;)  the  other  a  yellow  berry, 
of  which  the  Tartars  are  said  to  make  a  kind  of  rob  [rub]. 

By  a  meridian  observation,  the  latitude  of  the  place  was  42°  50' 
08".  It  was  my  daily  practice  to  take  observations  of  the  sun's  merid- 
ian altitude,  and  why  they  are  not  given,  will  appear  in  the  sequel. 
Eight  miles  further  we  reached  the  mouth  of  Deer  creek,  where  we 
encamped.  Here  was  an  abundance  of  rich  grass,  and  our  animals 
were  compensated  for  past  privations.  This  stream  was  at  this  time 
twenty  feet  broad,  and  well  timbered  with  cottonwood  of  an  un- 
common size.  It  is  the  largest  tributary  of  the  Platte,  between  the 
mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water  and  the  Laramie.  Our  astronomical 
observations  gave  for  the  mouth  of  the  stream  a  longitude  of  106° 
43' 15",  and  latitude  42°  52' 24". 


238 


]uly  27. — Nothing  worthy  of  mention  occurred  on  this  day;  we 
travelled  later  than  usual,  having  spent  some  time  in  searching  for 
grass,  crossing  and  recrossing  the  river  before  we  could  find  a  suf- 
ficient quantity  for  our  animals.  Toward  dusk,  we  encamped  among 
some  artemisia  bushes,  two  and  three  feet  in  height,  where  some 
scattered  patches  of  short  tough  grass  afforded  a  scanty  supply.  In 
crossing,  we  had  occasion  to  observe  that  the  river  was  frequently 
too  deep  to  be  forded,  though  we  always  succeeded  in  finding  a 
place  where  the  water  did  not  enter  the  carts.  The  stream  continued 
very  clear,  with  two  or  three  hundred  feet  breadth  of  water,  and  the 
sandy  bed  and  banks  were  frequently  covered  with  large  round 
pebbles.  We  had  travelled  this  day  twenty-seven  miles.  The  main 
chain  of  the  Black  Hills  was  here  only  about  seven  miles  to  the 
south,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  rising  abruptly  to  the  height 
of  eight  and  twelve  hundred  feet.  Patches  of  green  grass  in  the 
ravines  on  the  steep  sides,  marked  the  presence  of  springs,  and  the 
summits  were  clad  with  pines. 

]uly  28. — In  two  miles  from  our  encampment  we  reached  the 
place  where  the  regular  road  crosses  the  Platte.  There  was  two  hun- 
dred feet  breadth  of  water  at  this  time  in  the  bed,  which  has  a  vari- 
able width  of  eight  to  fifteen  hundred  feet.  The  channels  were 
generally  three  feet  deep,  and  there  were  large  angular  rocks  on  the 
bottom,  which  made  the  ford  in  some  places  a  little  difficult.  Even 
at  its  low  stages  this  river  cannot  be  crossed  at  random,  and  this  has 
always  been  used  as  the  best  ford.  The  low  stage  of  the  waters  the 
present  year  had  made  it  fordable  in  almost  any  part  of  its  course, 
where  access  could  be  had  to  its  bed. 

For  the  satisfaction  of  travellers,  I  will  endeavor  to  give  some 
description  of  the  nature  of  the  road  from  Laramie  to  this  point. 
The  nature  of  the  soil  may  be  inferred  from  its  geological  formation. 
The  limestone  at  the  eastern  limit  of  this  section,  is  succeeded  by 
limestone  without  fossils,  a  great  variety  of  sandstone,  consisting 
principally  of  red  sandstone  and  fine  conglomerates.  The  red  sand- 
stone is  argillaceous,  with  compact  white  gypsum  or  alabaster,  very 
beautiful.  The  other  sandstones  are  gray,  yellow,  and  ferruginous, 
sometimes  very  coarse.  The  apparent  sterility  of  the  country  must 
therefore  be  sought  for  in  other  causes  than  the  nature  of  the  soil. 
The  face  of  the  country  cannot  with  propriety  be  called  hilly.  It  is 
a  succession  of  long  ridges,  made  by  the  numerous  streams  which 
come  down  from  the  neighboring  mountain  range.  The  ridges  have 

239 


an  undulating  surface,  with  some  such  appearance  as  the  ocean 
presents  in  an  ordinary  breeze. 

The  road  which  is  now  generally  followed  through  this  region  is, 
therefore,  a  very  good  one,  without  any  difficult  ascents  to  over- 
come. The  principal  obstructions  are  near  the  river,  where  the 
transient  waters  of  heavy  rains  have  made  deep  ravines  with  steep 
banks,  which  renders  frequent  circuits  necessary.  It  will  be  remem- 
bered that  wagons  pass  this  road  only  once  or  twice  a  year,  which 
is  by  no  means  sufficient  to  break  down  the  stubborn  roots  of  the 
innumerable  artemisia  bushes.  A  partial  absence  of  these  is  often 
the  only  indication  of  the  track,  and  the  roughness  produced  by 
their  roots  in  many  places  gives  the  road  the  character  of  one  newly 
opened  in  a  wooded  country.  This  is  usually  considered  the  worst 
part  of  the  road  east  of  the  mountains,  and  as  it  passes  through  an 
open  prairie  region,  may  be  much  improved,  so  as  to  avoid  the 
greater  part  of  the  inequalities  it  now  presents. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Kanzas  to  the  Green  river  valley,  west  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  there  is  no  such  thing  as  a  mountain  road  on 
the  line  of  communication. 

We  continued  our  way,  and  four  miles  beyond  the  ford,  Indians 
were  discovered  again,  and  I  halted  while  a  party  were  sent  forward 
to  ascertain  who  they  were.  In  a  short  time  they  returned,  accompa- 
nied by  a  number  of  Indians  of  the  Oglallah  band  of  Sioux.  From 
them  we  received  some  interesting  information.  They  had  formed 
part  of  the  great  village,  which  they  informed  us  had  broken  up, 
and  was  on  its  way  home.^^  The  greater  part  of  the  village,  includ- 
ing the  Arapahoes,  Cheyennes,  and  Oglallahs,  had  crossed  the 
Platte  eight  or  ten  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water,  and 
were  now  behind  the  mountains  to  the  south  of  us,  intending  to 
regain  the  Platte  by  way  of  Deer  creek.  They  had  taken  this  unusual 
route  in  search  of  grass  and  game.  They  gave  us  a  very  discouraging 
picture  of  the  country.  The  great  drought,  and  the  plague  of  grass- 
hoppers, had  swept  it  so,  that  scarce  a  blade  of  grass  was  to  be  seen, 
and  there  was  not  a  buflfalo  to  be  found  in  the  whole  region.  Their 
people,  they  further  said,  had  been  nearly  starved  to  death,  and  we 
would  find  their  road  marked  by  lodges  which  they  had  thrown 


52.  Deleted  from  the  end  of  this  sentence  in  the  manuscript  draft:   "in  a 
very  miserable  cond." 


240 


away  in  order  to  move  more  rapidly,  and  by  the  carcasses  of  the 
horses  which  they  had  eaten,  or  which  had  perished  by  starvation. 
Such  was  the  prospect  before  us. 

When  he  had  finished  the  interpretation  of  these  things,  Mr.  Bis- 
sonette  immediately  rode  up  to  me  and  urgently  advised  that  I 
should  entirely  abandon  the  further  prosecution  of  my  exploration. 
"Le  meilleure  avis  que  je  pourrais  vous  donner  c'est  de  virer  de 
suite."  "The  best  advice  I  can  give  you,  is  to  turn  back  at  once."  It 
was  his  own  intention  to  return,  as  we  had  now  reached  the  point  to 
which  he  had  engaged  to  attend  me.  In  reply,  I  called  up  my  men, 
and  communicated  to  them  fully  the  information  I  had  just  re- 
ceived. I  then  expressed  to  them  my  fixed  determination  to  proceed 
to  the  end  of  the  enterprise  on  which  I  had  been  sent,  but  as  the 
situation  of  the  country  gave  me  some  reason  to  apprehend  that  it 
might  be  attended  with  an  unfortunate  result  to  some  of  us,  I 
would  leave  it  optional  with  them  to  continue  with  me  or  to  return. 

Among  them  were  some  five  or  six  who  I  know  would  remain. 
We  had  still  ten  days'  provisions;  and,  should  no  game  be  found, 
when  this  stock  was  expended,  we  had  our  horses  and  mules,  which 
we  could  eat  when  other  means  of  subsistence  failed.  But  not  a  man 
flinched  from  the  undertaking.  "We'll  eat  the  mules,"  said  Basil 
Lajeunesse;  and  thereupon  we  shook  hands  with  our  interpreter 
and  his  Indians,  and  parted.  With  them  I  sent  back  one  of  my  men, 
Dumes,  whom  the  effects  of  an  old  wound  in  the  leg  rendered  in- 
capable of  continuing  the  journey  on  foot,  and  his  horse  seemed  on 
the  point  of  giving  out.  Having  resolved  to  disencumber  ourselves 
immediately  of  every  thing  not  absolutely  necessary  to  our  future  op- 
erations, I  turned  directly  in  toward  the  river,  and  encamped  on  the 
left  bank,  a  little  above  the  place  where  our  council  had  been  held, 
and  where  a  thick  grove  of  willows  offered  a  suitable  spot  for  the 
object  I  had  in  view. 

The  carts  having  been  discharged,  the  covers  and  wheels  were 
taken  off,  and,  with  the  frames,  carried  into  some  low  places  among 
the  willows,  and  concealed  in  the  dense  foliage  in  such  a  manner 
that  the  glitter  of  the  iron  work  might  not  attract  the  observation  of 
some  straggling  Indian.  In  the  sand  which  had  been  blown  up  into 
waves  among  the  willows,  a  large  hole  was  then  dug,  ten  feet  square 
and  six  deep.  In  the  meantime,  all  our  effects  had  been  spread  out 
upon  the  ground,  and  whatever  was  designed  to  be  carried  along 


241 


with  us  separated  and  laid  aside,  and  the  remaining  part  carried  to 
the  hole  and  carefully  covered  up.^^  As  much  as  possible,  all  traces 
of  our  proceedings  were  obliterated,  and  it  wanted  but  a  rain  to 
render  our  cache  safe  beyond  discovery.  All  the  men  were  now  set 
at  work  to  arrange  the  pack-saddles  and  make  up  the  packs. 

The  day  was  very  warm  and  calm,  and  the  sky  entirely  clear,  ex- 
cept where,  as  usual  along  the  summits  of  the  mountainous  ridge 
opposite,  the  clouds  had  congregated  in  masses.  Our  lodge  had  been 
planted,  and,  on  account  of  the  heat,  the  ground  pins  had  been  taken 
out,  and  the  lower  part  slightly  raised.  Near  to  it  was  standing  the 
barometer,  which  swung  in  a  tripod  frame;  and  within  the  lodge, 
where  a  small  fire  had  been  built,  Mr.  Preuss  was  occupied  in  observ- 
ing the  temperature  of  boiling  water.  At  this  instant,  and  without 
any  warning  until  it  was  within  fifty  yards,  a  violent  gust  of  wind 
dashed  down  the  lodge,  burying  under  it  Mr.  Preuss^"*  and 
about  a  dozen  men,  who  had  attempted  to  keep  it  from  being 
carried  away.  I  succeeded  in  saving  the  barometer,  which  the  lodge 
was  carrying  off  with  itself,  but  the  thermometer  was  broken.  We 
had  no  others  of  a  high  graduation,  none  of  those  which  remained 
going  higher  than  135°  Fahrenheit.  Our  astronomical  observations 
gave  to  this  place,  which  we  named  Cache  camp,  a  longitude  of 
107°  15'55",  latitude  42°  50' 53". 

]uly  29. — All  our  arrangements  having  been  completed,  we  left 
the  encampment  at  7  o'clock  this  morning.  In  this  vicinity  the  ordi- 
nary road  leaves  the  Platte,  and  crosses  over  to  the  Sweet  Water 
river,  which  it  strikes  near  Rock  Independence.  Instead  of  following 
this  road,  I  had  determined  to  keep  the  immediate  valley  of  the 
Platte  so  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water,  in  the  expectation 
of  finding  better  grass.  To  this  I  was  further  prompted  by  the  na- 
ture of  my  instructions.  To  Mr.  Carson  was  assigned  the  office  of 
guide,  as  we  had  now  reached  a  part  of  the  country  with  which,  or 
a  great  part  of  which,  long  residence  had  made  him  familiar.  In  a 
few  miles  we  reached  the  Red  Buttes,^^  a  famous  landmark  in  this 


53.  Deleted  at  this  point  in  the  manuscript  draft,  a  partial  sentence:  "Here 
were  deposited  the  harness  of  the  mules,  the  greatest  part  of  our  clothing,  a 
store  of  powder  and  lead.  .  .  ." 

54.  The  Preuss  diary  skips  from  27  to  31  July,  and  thus  we  are  deprived  of 
his  own  caustic  record  of  this  incident. 

55.  Another  well-known  landmark  on  the  trail  to  South  Pass,  about  fifteen 
miles  southwest  of  Casper,  Wyo.,  on  state  highway  220. 

242 


country,  whose  geological  composition  is  red  sandstone,  limestone, 
and  calcareous  sandstone  and  puddingstone. 

The  river  here  cuts  its  way  through  a  ridge ;  on  the  eastern  side  of 
it  are  the  lofty  escarpments  of  red  argillaceous  sandstone,  which  are 
called  the  Red  Buttes.  In  this  passage  the  stream  is  not  much  com- 
pressed or  pent  up,  there  being  a  bank  of  considerable  though  vari- 
able breadth  on  either  side.  Immediately  on  entering  we  discovered 
a  band  of  buflfalo.  The  hunters  failed  to  kill  any  of  them,  the  leading 
hunter  being  thrown  into  a  ravine,  which  occasioned  some  delay, 
and  in  the  meantime  the  herd  clambered  up  the  steep  face  of  the 
ridge.  It  is  sometimes  wonderful  to  see  these  apparently  clumsy 
animals  make  their  way  up  and  down  the  most  rugged  and  broken 
precipices.  We  halted  to  noon  before  we  had  cleared  this  passage 
at  a  spot  twelve  miles  distant  from  Cache  camp,  where  we  found  an 
abundance  of  grass.  So  far  the  account  of  the  Indians  was  found  to 
be  false.  On  the  banks  were  willow  and  cherry  trees.  The  cherries 
were  not  yet  ripe,  but  in  the  thickets  were  numerous  fresh  tracks  of 
the  grizzly  bear,  which  are  very  fond  of  this  fruit.  The  soil  here  is 
red,  the  composition  being  derived  from  the  red  sandstone.  About 
seven  miles  brought  us  through  the  ridge,  in  which  the  course  of 
the  river  is  north  and  south.  Here  the  valley  opens  out  broadly,  and 
high  walls  of  the  red  formation  present  themselves  among  the  hills 
to  the  east.  We  crossed  here  a  pretty  little  creek,  an  affluent  of  the 
right  bank.  It  is  well  timbered  with  cottonwood  in  this  vicinity,  and 
the  absinthe  [Artemisia]  has  lost  its  shrub-like  character,  and  be- 
comes small  trees  six  and  eight  feet  in  height,  and  sometimes  eight 
inches  in  diameter.  Two  or  three  miles  above  this  creek  we  made 
our  encampment,  having  travelled  to-day  twenty-five  miles.  Our 
animals  fared  well  here,  as  there  is  an  abundance  of  grass.  The  river 
bed  is  made  up  of  pebbles,  and  in  the  bank  at  the  level  of  the  water 
is  a  conglomerate  of  coarse  pebbles  about  the  size  of  ostrich  eggs, 
and  which  I  remarked  in  the  banks  of  the  Laramie  fork.  It  is  over- 
laid by  a  soil  of  mixed  clay  and  sand,  six  feet  thick.  By  astronomical 
observations  our  position  is  in  longitude  107°  29'  06'',  and  latitude  42° 
38'. 

July  30. — After  travelling  about  twelve  miles  this  morning,  we 
reached  a  place  where  the  Indian  village  had  crossed  the  river.  Here 
were  the  poles  of  discarded  lodges  and  skeletons  of  horses  lying 
about.  Mr.  Carson,  who  had  never  been  higher  up  than  this  point 
on  the  river,  which  has  the  character  of  being  exceedingly  rugged 

243 


and  walled  in  by  precipices  above,  thought  it  advisable  to  camp 
near  this  place,  where  we  were  certain  of  obtaining  grass,  and  to- 
morrow make  our  crossing  among  the  rugged  hills  to  the  Sweet 
Water  river.  Accordingly  we  turned  back  and  descended  the  river 
to  an  island  near  by,  which  was  about  twenty  acres  in  size,  covered 
with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  grass.  The  formation  here  I  found 
highly  interesting.  Immediately  at  this  island  the  river  is  again  shut 
up  in  the  rugged  hills,  which  come  down  to  it  from  the  main  ridge 
in  a  succession  of  spurs  three  or  four  hundred  feet  high,  and  alter- 
nated with  green  level  prairillons  or  meadows,  bordered  on  the 
river  banks  with  thickets  of  willow,  and  having  many  plants  to  in- 
terest the  traveller.  The  island  lies  between  two  of  these  ridges,  three 
or  four  hundred  yards  apart,  of  which  that  on  the  right  bank  is  com- 
posed entirely  of  red  argillaceous  sandstone,  with  thin  layers  of 
fibrous  gypsum.  On  the  left  bank,  the  ridge  is  composed  entirely  of 
siliceous  puddingstone,  the  pebbles  in  the  numerous  strata  increas- 
ing in  size  from  the  top  to  the  bottom,  where  they  are  as  large  as  a 
man's  head.  So  far  as  I  was  able  to  determine,  these  strata  incline  to 
the  northeast,  with  a  dip  of  about  15°.  This  puddingstone  or  con- 
glomerate formation  I  was  enabled  to  trace  through  an  extended 
range  of  country,  from  a  few  miles  east  of  the  meridian  of  Fort 
Laramie  to  where  I  found  it  superimposed  on  the  granite  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  in  longitude  109°  30'.  From  its  appearance,  the 
main  chain  of  the  Laramie  mountain  is  composed  of  this  rock ;  and 
in  a  number  of  places  I  found  isolated  hills,  which  served  to  mark  a 
former  level,  which  had  been  probably  swept  away. 

These  conglomerates  are  very  friable  and  easily  decomposed;  and 
I  am  inclined  to  think  this  formation  is  the  source  from  which  was 
derived  the  great  deposite  of  sand  and  gravel  which  forms  the  sur- 
face rock  of  the  prairie  country  west  of  the  Mississippi. 

Crossing  the  ridge  of  red  sandstone,  and  traversing  the  little 
prairie  which  lies  to  the  southward  of  it,  we  made  in  the  afternoon 
an  excursion  to  a  place  which  we  have  called  the  Hot  Spring  Gate, 
This  place  has  much  the  appearance  of  a  gate,  by  which  the  Platte 
passes  through  a  ridge  composed  of  a  white  and  calcareous  sand- 
stone. The  length  of  the  passage  is  about  four  hundred  yards,  with  a 
smooth  green  prairie  on  either  side.  Through  this  place,  the  stream 
flows  with  a  quiet  current,  unbroken  by  any  rapid,  and  is  about  sev- 
enty yards  wide  between  the  walls,  which  rise  perpendicularly  from 
the  water.  To  that  on  the  right  bank,  which  is  the  lower,  the 

244 


barometer  gave  a  height  of  three  hundred  and  sixty  feet.  Annexed  is 
a  view  of  this  place,  which  will  be  more  particularly  described 
hereafter,  as  we  passed  through  it  on  our  return. 

We  saw  here  numerous  herds  of  mountain  sheep,  and  frequently 
heard  the  volley  of  rattling  stones  which  accompanied  their  rapid  de- 
scent down  the  steep  hills.  This  was  the  first  place  at  which  we  had 
killed  any  of  these  animals;  and,  in  consequence  of  this  circumstance, 
and  of  the  abundance  of  these  sheep  or  goats  (for  they  are  called  by 
each  name),  we  gave  to  our  encampment  the  name  of  Goat  Island. 
Their  flesh  is  much  esteemed  by  the  hunters,  and  has  very  much  the 
flavor  of  the  Allegany  [sic]  mountain  sheep.  I  have  frequently  seen 
the  horns  of  this  animal  three  feet  long  and  seventeen  inches  in 
circumference  at  the  base,  weighing  eleven  pounds.  But  two  or  three 
of  these  were  killed  by  our  party  at  this  place,  and  of  these  the  horns 
were  small.  The  use  of  these  horns  seems  to  be  to  protect  the  animal's 
head  in  pitching  down  precipices  to  avoid  pursuing  wolves — their 
only  safety  being  in  places  where  they  cannot  be  followed.  The  bones 
are  very  strong  and  solid,  the  marrow  occupying  but  a  very  small  por- 
tion of  the  bone  in  the  leg,  about  the  thickness  of  a  rye  straw.  The  hair 
is  short,  resembling  the  winter  color  of  our  common  deer,  which 
it  nearly  approaches  in  size  and  appearance.  Except  in  the  horns,  it 
has  no  resemblance  whatever  to  the  goat.  The  longitude  of  this 
place,  resulting  from  chronometer  and  lunar  distances,  and  an  occul- 
tation  of  e  Arietis,  is  107°  37'  27",  and  the  latitude  is  42°  33'  27".  One 
of  our  horses,  which  had  given  out,  we  left  to  receive  strength  on  the 
island,  intending  to  take  her,  perhaps,  on  our  return. 

July  31. — This  morning  we  left  the  course  of  the  Platte,  to  cross 
over  to  the  Sweet  Water.  Our  way  for  a  few  miles  lay  up  the  sandy 
bed  of  a  dry  creek,  in  which  I  found  several  interesting  plants.  Leav- 
ing this  we  wound  our  way  to  the  summit  of  the  hills,  of  which  the 
peaks  are  here  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  Platte,  bare  and  rocky. 
A  long  and  gradual  slope  led  from  these  hills  to  the  Sweet  Water, 
which  we  reached  in  fifteen  miles  from  Goat  Island.  I  made  an 
early  encampment  here,  in  order  to  give  the  hunters  an  opportunity 
to  procure  a  supply  from  several  bands  of  buffalo,  which  made  their 
appearance  in  the  valley  near  by.  The  stream  here  is  about  sixty  feet 
wide,  and  at  this  time  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  deep,  with  a  very 
moderate  current. 

The  adjoining  prairies  are  sandy;  but  the  immediate  river  bottom 
is  good  soil,  which  afforded  an  abundance  of  soft  green  grass  to 

245 


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t/3 

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246 


our  horses,  and  where  I  found  a  variety  of  interesting  plants,  which 
made  their  appearance  for  the  first  time.  A  rain  to-night  made  it  un- 
pleasantly cold ;  and  there  was  no  tree  here,  to  enable  us  to  pitch  our 
single  tent,  the  poles  of  which  had  been  left  at  Cache  camp.  We 
had,  therefore,  no  shelter  except  what  was  to  be  found  under  cover 
of  the  abs'mthe  bushes,  which  grew  in  many  thick  patches,  one  or 
two  and  sometimes  three  feet  high. 

August  1. — The  hunters  went  ahead  this  morning,  as  buffalo  ap- 
peared tolerably  abundant,  and  I  was  desirous  to  secure  a  small 
stock  of  provisions,  and  we  moved  about  seven  miles  up  the  valley, 
and  encamped  one  mile  below  Rock  Independence.  This  is  an  iso- 
lated granite  rock,  about  six  hundred  and  fifty  yards  long,  and  forty 
in  height.  Except  in  a  depression  of  the  summit,  where  a  little  soil 
supports  a  scanty  growth  of  shrubs,  with  a  solitary  dwarf  pine,  it  is 
entirely  bare.  Everywhere  within  six  or  eight  feet  of  the  ground, 
where  the  surface  is  sufficiently  smooth,  and  in  some  places  sixty  or 
eighty  feet  above,  the  rock  is  inscribed  with  the  names  of  travellers. 
Many  a  name  famous  in  the  history  of  this  country,  and  some  well- 
known  to  science,  are  to  be  found  mixed  among  those  of  the  traders 
and  of  travellers  for  pleasure  and  curiosity,  and  of  missionaries 
among  the  savages.  Some  of  these  have  been  washed  away  by  the 
rain,  but  the  greater  number  are  still  very  legible.^^  The  position  of 
this  rock  is  in  longitude  107°  56',  latitude  42°  29'  36".  We  remained 
at  our  camp  of  August  1st  until  noon  of  the  next  day,  occupied  in 
drying  meat.  By  observation,  the  longitude  of  the  place  is  107°  55', 
latitude  42°  29'  56". 

August  2. — Five  miles  above  Rock  Independence  we  came  to  a 
place  called  the  Devil's  Gate,  where  the  Sweet  Water  cuts  through 
the  point  of  a  granite  ridge.  The  length  of  the  passage  is  about  three 
hundred  yards,  and  the  width  thirty-five  yards.  The  walls  of  rock 
are  vertical,  and  about  four  hundred  feet  in  height;  and  the  stream 
in  the  gate  is  almost  entirely  choked  up  by  masses  which  have 
fallen  from  above.  In  the  wall,  on  the  right  bank,  is  a  dike  of  trap 
rock,  cutting  through  a  fine-grained  gray  granite.  Near  the  point  of 
this  ridge  crop  out  some  strata  of  the  valley  formation,  consisting  of 
a  grayish  micaceous  sandstone,  and  fine-grained  conglomerate,  and 
marl.  We  encamped  eight  miles  above  the  Devil's  Gate,  of  which 


56.  Independence  Rock,  on  Wyoming  state  highway  220,  is  now  protected 
from  the  further  carving  of  graffiti  by  a  strong  steel  fence. 

247 


248 


a  view  is  given  in  the  annexed  plate  [p.  248].'"  There  was  no  timber 
of  any  kind  on  the  river,  but  good  fires  were  made  of  drift  wood, 
aided  by  the  bois  de  vache. 

We  had  tonight  no  shelter  from  the  rain,  which  commenced  with 
squalls  of  wind  about  sunset.  The  country  here  is  exceedingly  pictur- 
esque. On  either  side  of  the  valley,  which  is  four  or  five  miles  broad, 
the  mountains  rise  to  the  height  of  twelve  and  fifteen  hundred,  or 
two  thousand  feet.  On  the  south  side,  the  range  appears  to  be  tim- 
bered, and  to-night  is  luminous  with  fires,  probably  the  work  of  the 
Indians,  who  have  just  passed  through  the  valley.  On  the  north, 
broken  and  granite  masses  rise  abruptly  from  the  green  sward  of  the 
river,  terminating  in  a  line  of  broken  summits.  Except  in  the  crevices 
of  the  rock,  and  here  and  there  on  a  ledge  or  bench  of  the  moun- 
tain, where  a  few  hardy  pines  have  clustered  together,  these  are  per- 
fectly bare  and  destitute  of  vegetation. 

Among  these  masses,  where  there  are  sometimes  isolated  hills  and 
ridges,  green  valleys  open  in  upon  the  river,  which  sweeps  the  base 
of  these  mountains  for  thirty-six  miles.  Everywhere  its  deep  verdure 
and  profusion  of  beautiful  flowers  is  in  pleasing  contrast  with  the 
sterile  grandeur  of  the  rock  and  the  barrenness  of  the  sandy  plain, 
which,  from  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  sweeps  up  to  the  mountain 
range  that  forms  its  southern  boundary.  The  great  evaporation  on 
the  sandy  soil  of  this  elevated  plain,  and  the  saline  efflorescences 
which  whiten  the  ground,  and  shine  like  lakes  reflecting  the  sun, 
make  a  soil  wholly  unfit  for  cultivation. 

August  3. — We  were  early  on  the  road  the  next  morning,  travel- 
ling along  the  upper  part  of  the  valley,  which  is  overgrown  with 
artemisia.  Scattered  about  on  the  plain  are  occasional  small  isolated 
hills.  One  of  these  which  I  examined,  about  fifty  feet  high,  con- 
sisted of  white  clay  and  marl,  in  nearly  horizontal  strata.  Several 
bands  of  buffalo  made  their  appearance  to-day,  with  herds  of  ante- 
lope; and  a  grizzly  bear — the  only  one  we  encountered  during  the 
journey — was  seen  scrambling  up  among  the  rocks.  As  we  passed 


57.  The  name  Devil's  Gate  apparently  was  quite  new.  Father  De  Smet 
went  to  the  mountains  in  1840  without  mentioning  it,  but  on  his  second 
journey,  in  a  letter  dated  16  Aug.  1841,  he  said  that  "travellers  have  named 
this  spot  the  Devil's  Entrance"  (quoted  from  anderson,  182n).  The  appella- 
tion, Devil's  Gate,  came  into  use  soon  after  the  appearance  of  JCF's  Report. 
The  view  of  the  formation  in  this  edition  (see  p.  248)  may  derive  from  a 
daguerreotype,  although  Preuss  did  not  think  that  JCF  had  produced  any 
good  plates  when  he  set  up  his  equipment  here. 

249 


over  a  slight  rise  near  the  river,  we  caught  the  first  view  of  the  Wind 
River  mountains,  appearing  at  this  distance  of  about  seventy  miles, 
to  be  a  low  and  dark  mountainous  ridge.  The  view  dissipated  in  a 
moment  the  pictures  which  had  been  created  in  our  minds,  by  many 
descriptions  of  travellers,  who  have  compared  these  mountains  to  the 
Alps  in  Switzerland;  and  speak  of  the  glittering  peaks  which  rise 
in  icy  majesty  amidst  the  eternal  glaciers  nine  or  ten  thousand  feet 
into  the  region  of  eternal  snows.^^  The  nakedness  of  the  river  was 
relieved  by  groves  of  willows,  where  we  encamped  at  night,  after  a 
march  of  twenty-six  miles;  and  numerous  bright-colored  flowers  had 
made  the  river  bottom  look  gay  as  a  garden.  We  found  here  a  horse, 
which  had  been  abandoned  by  the  Indians,  because  his  hoofs  had 
been  so  much  worn  that  he  was  unable  to  travel;  and,  during  the 
night,  a  dog  came  into  the  camp. 

August  4.— Our  camp  was  at  the  foot  of  the  Granite  mountains, 
which  we  climbed  this  morning  to  take  some  barometrical  heights; 
and  here  among  the  rocks  was  seen  the  first  magpie.  On  our  return, 
we  saw  one  at  the  mouth  of  the  Platte  river.  We  left  here  one  of  our 
horses,  which  was  unable  to  proceed  farther.  A  few  miles  from  the 
encampment  we  left  the  river,  which  makes  a  bend  to  the  south,  and 
traversing  an  undulating  country,  consisting  of  a  grayish  micaceous 
sandstone  and  fine-grained  conglomerates,  struck  it  again,  and  en- 
camped after  a  journey  of  twenty-five  miles.  Astronomical  observa- 
tions placed  us  in  latitude  42°  32'  30". 

August  5.— The  morning  was  dark,  with  a  driving  rain,  and  dis- 
agreeably cold.  We  continued  our  route  as  usual,  but  the  weather 
became  so  bad  that  we  were  glad  to  avail  ourselves  of  the  shelter 
offered  by  a  small  island,  about  ten  miles  above  our  last  encamp- 
ment, which  was  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  willows.  There 
was  fine  grass  for  our  animals,  and  the  timber  afforded  us  com- 
fortable protection  and  good  fires.  In  the  afternoon  the  sun  broke 


58.  Deleted  from  the  manuscript  draft  here:  "As  we  had  been  drawing 
nearer  to  the  mountains,  Mr.  Preuss  had  kept  constandy  before  his  mmd 
the  moment  in  which  he  had  first  seen  the  Alps;  when,  turning  a  corner  of  the 
Jura  between  Basle  and  Tololburn,  the  whole  ridge,  from  Mt.  Blanc  to  the 
Tyrolese  Alps,  burst  upon  his  view  in  the  glory  of  a  bright  sunshine,  and  his 
disappointment  |  in  seeing  the  Wind  River  Mountains]  was  proportionably 
great."  In  his  diary  entry  for  4  Aug.,  Preuss  mentions  his  experience  in  the 
Alps  and  is  predictably  disdainful  of  the  Rockies.  "An  American  has 
measured  them  to  be  as  high  as  25,000  feet.  I'll  be  hanged  if  they  are  half  as 
high,  yea,  if  they  are  8,000  feet  high"  (preuss,  33). 

250 


through  the  clouds  for  a  short  time,  and  the  barometer  at  5  P.  M., 
was  at  23.713,  the  thermometer  at  60°,  with  the  wind  strong  from 
the  northwest.  We  availed  ourselves  of  the  fine  weather  to  make  ex- 
cursions in  the  neighborhood.  The  river,  at  this  place,  is  bordered 
by  hills  of  the  valley  formation.  They  are  of  moderate  height,  one  of 
the  highest  peaks  on  the  right  bank  being,  according  to  the  barom- 
eter, one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  above  the  river.  On  the  left  bank 
they  are  higher.  They  consist  of  a  fine  white  clayey  sandstone,  a 
white  calcareous  sandstone,  and  coarse  sandstone  or  puddingstone. 
August  6. — It  continued  steadily  raining  all  the  day;  but,  notwith- 
standing, we  left  our  encampment  in  the  afternoon.  Our  animals 
had  been  much  refreshed  by  their  repose,  and  an  abundance  of  rich, 
soft  grass,  which  had  been  much  improved  by  the  rains.  In  about 
three  miles,  we  reached  the  entrance  of  a  hanyon,  where  the  Sweet 
Water  issues  upon  the  more  open  valley  we  had  passed  over.  Im- 
mediately at  the  entrance,  and  superimposed  directly  upon  the 
granite  are  strata  of  compact,  calcareous  sandstone  and  chert,  alter- 
nating with  fine  white  and  reddish  white,  and  fine  gray  and  red 
sandstones.  These  strata  dip  to  the  eastward  at  an  angle  of  about  18°, 
and  form  the  western  limit  of  the  sandstone  and  limestone  forma- 
tions on  the  line  of  our  route.  Here  we  entered  among  the  primitive 
rocks.  The  usual  road  passes  to  the  right  of  this  place,  but  we  wound, 
or  rather  scrambled,  our  way  up  the  narrow  valley  for  several  hours. 
Wildness  and  disorder  were  the  character  of  this  scenery.  The  river 
had  been  swollen  by  the  late  rains,  and  came  rushing  through  with 
an  impetuous  current,  three  or  four  feet  deep,  and  generally  twenty 
yards  broad.  The  valley  was  sometimes  the  breadth  of  the  stream, 
and  sometimes  opened  into  little  green  meadows,  sixty  yards  wide, 
with  open  groves  of  aspen.  The  stream  was  bordered  throughout 
with  aspen,  beech,  and  willow;  and  tall  pines  grew  on  the  sides  and 
summits  of  the  crags.  On  both  sides,  the  granite  rocks  rose  precip- 
itously to  the  height  of  three  hundred  and  five  hundred  feet,  termi- 
nating in  jagged  and  broken  pointed  peaks;  and  fragments  of  fallen 
rock  lay  piled  up  at  the  foot  of  the  precipices.  Gneiss,  mica  slate,  and 
a  white  granite,  were  among  the  varieties  I  noticed.  Here  were  many 
old  traces  of  beaver  on  the  stream,  remnants  of  dams,  near  which 
were  lying  trees,  which  they  had  cut  down,  one  and  two  feet  in 
diameter.  The  hills  entirely  shut  up  the  river  at  the  end  of  about 
five  miles,  and  we  turned  up  a  ravine  that  led  to  a  high  prairie, 
which  seemed  to  be  the  general  level  of  the  country.  Hence,  to  the 

251 


summit  of  the  ridge,  there  is  a  regular  and  very  gradual  rise.  Blocks 
of  granite  were  piled  up  at  the  heads  of  the  ravines,  and  small  bare 
knolls  of  mica  slate  and  milky  quartz  protruded  at  frequent  inter- 
vals on  the  prairie,  which  was  whitened  in  occasional  spots  with 
small  salt  lakes  where  the  water  had  evaporated,  and  left  the  bed 
covered  with  a  shining  incrustation  of  salt.  The  evening  was  very 
cold,  a  northwest  wind  driving  a  fine  rain  in  our  faces,  and  at  night- 
fall we  descended  to  a  little  stream  on  which  we  encamped,  about 
two  miles  from  the  Sweet  Water.  Here  had  recently  been  a  very 
large  camp  of  Snake  and  Crow  Indians,  and  some  large  poles  lying 
about  afforded  the  means  of  pitching  a  tent,  and  making  other 
places  of  shelter.  Our  fires  to-night  were  made  principally  of  the 
dry  branches  of  the  artemisia,  which  covered  the  slopes.  It  burns 
quickly,  with  a  clear  oily  flame,  and  makes  a  hot  fire.  The  hills  here 
are  composed  of  hard,  compact  mica  slate,  with  veins  of  quartz. 

August  7. — We  left  our  encampment  with  the  rising  sun.  As  we 
rose  from  the  bed  of  the  creek,  the  snow  line  of  the  mountains 
stretched  grandly  before  us,  the  white  peaks  glittering  in  the  sun. 
They  had  been  hidden  in  the  dark  weather  of  the  last  few  days,  and 
it  had  been  snowing  on  them,  while  it  rained  in  the  plains.  We 
crossed  a  ridge,  and  again  struck  the  Sweet  Water;  here,  a  beautiful 
swift  stream,  with  a  more  open  valley,  timbered  with  beech  and 
Cottonwood.  It  now  began  to  lose  itself  in  the  many  small  forks 
which  make  its  head,  and  we  continued  up  the  main  stream  until 
near  noon,  when  we  left  it  a  few  miles  to  make  our  noon  halt  on  a 
small  creek  among  the  hills,  from  which  the  stream  issues  by  a  small 
opening.  Within  was  a  beautiful  grassy  spot,  covered  with  an  open 
grove  of  large  beech  trees,  among  which  I  found  several  plants  that 
I  had  not  previously  seen. 

The  afternoon  was  cloudy,  with  squalls  of  rain;  but  the  weather 
became  fine  at  sunset,  when  we  again  encamped  on  the  Sweet 
Water,  within  a  few  miles  of  the  South  Pass.  The  country,  over 
which  we  have  passed  to-day,  consists  principally  of  the  compact 
mica  slate,  which  crops  out  on  all  ridges,  making  the  uplands  very 
rocky  and  slaty.  In  the  escarpments  which  border  the  creeks,  it  is 
seen  alternating  with  a  light-colored  granite,  at  an  inclination  of 
45°;  the  beds  varying  in  thickness  from  two  or  three  feet  to  six  or 
eight  hundred.  At  a  distance,  the  granite  frequently  has  the  appear- 
ance of  irregular  lumps  of  clay,  hardened  by  exposure.  A  variety  of 
asters  may  now  be  numbered  among  the  characteristic  plants,  and 

252 


the  artemisia  continues  in  full  glory;  but  cacti  have  become  rare, 
and  mosses  begin  to  dispute  the  hills  with  them.  The  evening  was 
damp  and  unpleasant,  the  thermometer  at  10  o'clock  being  at  36°, 
and  the  grass  wet  with  a  heavy  dew.  Our  astronomical  observations 
placed  this  encampment  in  longitude  109°  51'  29'',  and  latitude 
42°  2/  15". 

Early  in  the  morning  we  resumed  our  journey,  the  weather  still 
cloudy,  with  occasional  rain.  Our  general  course  was  west,  as  I  had 
determined  to  cross  the  dividing  ridge  by  a  bridle  path  among  the 
broken  country  more  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  and 
return  by  the  wagon  road  two  and  a  half  miles  to  the  south  of  the 
point  where  the  trail  crosses. 

About  six  miles  from  our  encampment  brought  us  to  the  sum- 
mit.'^'' The  ascent  had  been  so  gradual  that,  with  all  the  intimate 
knowledge  possessed  by  Carson,  who  had  made  this  country  his 
home  for  seventeen  years,  we  were  obliged  to  watch  very  closely 
to  find  the  place  at  which  we  had  reached  the  culminating  point. 
This  was  between  two  low  hills,  rising  on  either  hand  fifty  or  sixty 
feet.  When  I  looked  back  at  them,  from  the  foot  of  the  immediate 
slope  on  the  western  plain,  their  summits  appeared  to  be  about  one 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  above.  From  the  impression  on  my  mind 
at  this  time,  and  subsequently  on  our  return,  I  should  compare  the 
elevation  which  we  surmounted  at  the  pass,  to  the  ascent  of  the 
Capitol  hill  from  the  avenue,  at  Washington.  It  is  difficult  for  me  to 
fix  positively  the  breadth  of  this  pass.  From  the  broken  ground 
where  it  commences,  at  the  foot  of  the  Wind  River  chain,  the  view 
to  the  southeast  is  over  a  champaign  country,  broken,  at  the  distance 
of  nineteen  miles,  by  the  Table  Rock ;  which,  with  the  other  isolated 
hills  in  its  vicinity,  seems  to  stand  on  a  comparative  plain.  This  I 
judged  to  be  its  termination,  the  ridge  recovering  its  rugged  charac- 
ter with  the  Table  Rock.  It  will  be  seen  that  it  in  no  manner  re- 
sembles the  places  to  which  the  term  is  commonly  applied — nothing 
of  the  gorge-like  character  and  winding  ascents  of  the  Allegany 
[sic^^  passes  in  America,  nothing  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard  and  Sim- 
plon  passes  in  Europe.  Approaching  it  from  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet 
Water,  a  sandy  plain,  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  long,  conducts, 


59.  South  Pass  is  not  so  much  a  place  as  an  area.  JCF  is  crossing  it  at  the 
very  southern  extremity  of  the  Wind  River  chain.  Nfociern  travelers  who  pull 
off  of  Wyoming  state  highway  220  to  read  the  markers  erected  by  the  state, 
and  by  the  National  Park  Service,  are  seven  to  ten  miles  south  of  his  route. 

253 


by  a  gradual  and  regular  ascent,  to  the  summit,  about  seven  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  sea ;  and  the  traveller,  without  being  reminded 
of  any  change  by  toilsome  ascents,  suddenly  finds  himself  on  the 
waters  which  flow  to  the  Pacific  ocean.  By  the  route  we  had 
travelled,  the  distance  from  Fort  Laramie  is  three  hundred  and 
twenty  miles,  or  nine  hundred  and  fifty  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Kanzas. 

Continuing  our  march,  we  reached,  in  eight  miles  from  the  pass, 
the  Little  Sandy,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Colorado,  or  Green 
river  of  the  Gulf  of  California.^"  The  weather  had  grown  fine  dur- 
ing the  morning,  and  we  remained  here  the  rest  of  the  day,  to  dry 
our  baggage  and  take  some  astronomical  observations.  The  stream 
was  about  forty  feet  wide,  and  two  or  three  deep,  with  clear  water 
and  a  full  swift  current,  over  a  sandy  bed.  It  was  timbered  with  a 
growth  of  low,  bushy  and  dense  willows,  among  which  were  little 
verdant  spots,  which  gave  our  animals  fine  grass,  and  where  I  found 
a  number  of  interesting  plants.  Among  the  neighboring  hills  I  no- 
ticed fragments  of  granite  containing  magnetic  iron.  Longitude  of 
the  camp  was  110°  07'  46",  and  latitude  42°  2/  34". 

August  9. — We  made  our  noon  halt  today  on  Big  Sandy,  another 
tributary  of  Green  river.  The  face  of  the  country  traversed  was  of  a 
brown  sand  of  granite  materials,  the  detritus  of  the  neighboring 
mountains.  Strata  of  the  milky  quartz  cropped  out,  and  blocks  of 
granite  were  scattered  about  containing  magnetic  iron.  On  Sandy 
creek  the  formation  was  of  parti-colored  sand,  exhibited  in  escarp- 
ments fifty  to  eighty  feet  high.  In  the  afternoon  we  had  a  severe 
storm  of  hail,  and  encamped  at  sun  set  on  the  first  New  Fork  [East 
Fork  River].  Within  the  space  of  a  few  miles,  the  Wind  mountains 
supply  a  number  of  tributaries  to  Green  river,  which  are  all  called 
the  New  Forks.  Near  our  camp  were  two  remarkable  isolated  hills, 
one  of  them  sufficiently  large  to  merit  the  name  of  mountain.*^^  They 
are  called  the  Two  Buttes,  and  will  serve  to  identify  the  place  of  our 
encampment,  which  the  observations  of  the  evening  placed  in  longi- 


60.  Now  JCF  has  left  the  wagon  trail  and  struck  off  to  the  northwest,  to 
reconnoiter  the  Wind  River  Mountains.  His  camp  on  the  Little  Sandy,  ignor- 
ing his  usually  faulty  astronomical  observations,  is  probably  southeast  of 
Little  Prospect  Mountain. 

61.  But  now  called  Fremont  Butte,  and  located  about  seven  miles  south 
of  Boulder  Lake. 


254 


tude  110°  29'  \r\  and  latitude  42°  42M6".  On  the  right  bank  of  the 
stream,  opposite  to  the  large  hill,  the  strata  which  are  displayed  con- 
sist of  decomposing  granite,  which  supplies  the  brown  sand  of 
which  the  face  of  the  country  is  composed  to  a  considerable  depth. 
August  10. — The  air  at  sunrise  is  clear  and  pure,  and  the  morning 
extremely  cold,  but  beautiful.  A  lofty  snow  peak  of  the  mountain 
is  glittering  in  the  first  rays  of  the  sun,  which  has  not  yet  reached  us. 
The  long  mountain  wall  to  the  east,  rising  two  thousand  feet 
abruptly  from  the  plain,  behind  which  we  see  the  peaks,  is  still  dark, 
and  cuts  clear  against  the  glowing  sky.  A  fog,  just  risen  from  the 
river,  lies  along  the  base  of  the  mountain.  A  little  before  sunrise, 
the  thermometer  was  at  35°,  and  at  sunrise  })1>^ .  Water  froze  last 
night,  and  fires  are  very  comfortable.  The  scenery  becomes  hourly 
more  interesting  and  grand,  and  the  view  here  is  truly  magnificent; 
but,  indeed,  it  needs  something  to  repay  the  long  prairie  journey  of 
a  thousand  miles.  The  sun  has  just  shot  above  the  wall,  and  makes 
a  magical  change.  The  whole  valley  is  glowing  and  bright,  and  all 
the  mountain  peaks  are  gleaming  like  silver.  Though  these  snow 
mountains  are  not  the  Alps,  they  have  their  own  character  of  gran- 
deur and  magnificence,  and  will  doubtless  find  pens  and  pencils  to  do 
them  justice.  In  the  scene  before  us  we  feel  how  much  wood  im- 
proves a  view.  The  pines  on  the  mountain  seemed  to  give  it  much 
additional  beauty.  I  was  agreeably  disappointed  in  the  character  of 
the  streams  on  this  side  of  the  ridge.  Instead  of  the  creeks  which 
description  had  led  me  to  expect,  I  find  bold  broad  streams,  with 
three  or  four  feet  water,  and  a  rapid  current.  The  fork  on  which  we 
are  encamped  is  upwards  of  a  hundred  feet  wide,  timbered  with 
groves  or  thickets  of  the  low  willow.  We  were  now  approaching  the 
loftiest  part  of  the  Wind  River  chain;  and  I  left  the  valley  a  few 
miles  from  our  encampment,  intending  to  penetrate  the  mountains 
as  far  as  possible  with  the  whole  party.  We  were  soon  involved  in 
very  broken  ground,  among  long  ridges  covered  with  fragments  of 
granite.  Winding  our  way  up  a  long  ravine,  we  came  unexpectedly 
in  view  of  a  most  beautiful  lake,  set  like  a  gem  in  the  mountains. 
The  sheet  of  water  lay  transversely  across  the  direction  we  had  been 
pursuing;  and,  descending  the  steep,  rocky  ridge,  where  it  was  nec- 
essary to  lead  our  horses,  we  followed  its  banks  to  the  southern  ex- 
tremity. Here  a  view  of  the  utmost  magnificence  and  grandeur  burst 
upon  our  eyes.  With  nothing  between  us  and  their  feet  to  lessen  the 


255 


effect  of  the  whole  height,  a  grand  bed  of  snow-capped  mountains 
rose  before  us,  pile  upon  pile,  glowing  in  the  bright  light  of  an  Au- 
gust day.  Immediately  below  them  lay  the  lake  between  two  ridges 
covered  with  dark  pines,  which  swept  down  from  the  main  chain 
to  the  spot  where  we  stood.  Here,  where  the  lake  glittered  in  the 
open  sunlight,  its  banks  of  yellow  sand  and  the  light  foliage  of  aspen 
groves  contrasted  well  with  the  gloomy  pines.  "Never  before,"  said 
Mr,  Preuss,  "in  this  country  or  in  Europe,  have  I  seen  such  mag- 
nificent, grand  rocks."  I  was  so  much  pleased  with  the  beauty  of  the 
place,  that  I  determined  to  make  the  main  camp  here,  where  our 
animals  would  find  good  pasturage,  and  explore  the  mountains  with 
a  small  party  of  men.  Proceeding  a  little  further,  we  came  suddenly 
upon  the  outlet  of  the  lake  where  it  found  its  way  through  a  narrow 
passage  between  low  hills.  Dark  pines  which  overhung  the  stream 
and  masses  of  rock  where  the  water  foamed  along,  gave  it  much 
romantic  beauty.  Where  we  crossed,  which  was  immediately  at  the 
outlet,  it  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide,  and  so  deep,  that  with 
difficulty  we  were  able  to  ford  it.  Its  bed  was  an  accumulation  of 
rocks,  boulders,  and  broad  slabs,  and  large  angular  fragments, 
among  which  the  animals  fell  repeatedly. 

The  current  was  very  swift,  and  the  water  cold  and  of  a  crystal 
purity.  In  crossing  this  stream,  I  met  with  a  great  misfortune  in  hav- 
ing my  barometer  broken.  It  was  the  only  one;  a  great  part  of  the 
interest  of  the  journey  for  me  was  in  the  exploration  of  these  moun- 
tains, of  which  so  much  had  been  said  that  was  doubtful  and  con- 
tradictory; and  now  their  snowy  peaks  rose  majestically  before 
me,  and  the  only  means  of  giving  them  authentically  to  science,  the 
object  of  my  anxious  solicitude  by  night  and  day,  was  destroyed.  We 
had  brought  this  barometer  in  safety  a  thousand  miles,  and  broke  it 
almost  among  the  snow  of  the  mountains.  The  loss  was  felt  by  the 
whole  camp — all  had  seen  my  anxiety,  and  aided  me  in  preserving 
it;  the  height  of  these  mountains,  considered  by  the  hunters  and 
traders  the  highest  in  the  whole  range,  had  been  a  theme  of  constant 
discussion  among  them;  and  all  had  looked  forward  with  pleasure 
to  the  moment  when  the  instrument,  which  they  believed  to  be  true 
as  the  sun,  should  stand  upon  the  summits,  and  decide  their  disputes. 
Their  grief  was  only  inferior  to  my  own. 

This  lake  is  about  three  miles  long,  and  of  very  irregular  width, 
and  apparently  great  depth,  and  is  the  head  water  of  the  third  New 
Fork,  a  tributary  to  Green  river,  the  Colorado  of  the  West.  On  the 

256 


I 


map  and  in  the  narrative,  I  have  called  it  Mountain  lake.  "  I  en- 
camped on  the  north  side,  about  three  hundred  and  fifty  yards  from 
the  outlet.  This  was  the  most  western  point  at  which  I  obtained 
astronomical  observations,  by  which  this  place,  called  Bernier's  en- 
campment, is  made  in  110°  37' 25"  west  longitude  from  Greenwich, 
and  latitude  42°  49'  49".  The  mountain  peaks,  as  laid  down,  were 
fixed  by  bearings  from  this  and  other  astronomical  points.  We  had 
no  other  compass  than  the  small  ones  used  in  sketching  the  country; 
but  from  an  azimuth,  in  which  one  of  them  was  used,  the  variation 
of  the  compass  is  18°  east.  The  correction  made  in  our  field  work  by 
the  astronomical  observations  indicates  that  this  is  a  very  correct 
observation. 

As  soon  as  the  camp  was  formed,  I  set  about  endeavoring  to  repair 
my  barometer.  As  I  have  already  said,  this  was  a  standard  cistern 
barometer,  of  Troughton's  construction.  The  glass  cistern  had  been 
broken  about  midway;  but  as  the  instrument  had  been  kept  in  a 
proper  position,  no  air  had  found  its  way  into  the  tube,  the  end  of 
which  had  always  remained  covered.  I  had  with  me  a  number  of 
vials  of  tolerably  thick  glass,  some  of  which  were  of  the  same 
diameter  as  the  cistern,  and  I  spent  the  day  slowly  working  on  these, 
endeavoring  to  cut  them  of  the  requisite  length;  but  as  my  instru- 
ment was  a  very  rough  file,  I  invariably  broke  them.  A  groove  was 
cut  in  one  of  the  trees,  where  the  barometer  was  placed  during  the 
night,  to  be  out  of  the  way  of  any  possible  danger,  and  in  the  morn- 
ing I  commenced  again.  Among  the  powder  horns  in  the  camp,  I 
found  one  which  was  very  transparent,  so  that  its  contents  could  be 
almost  as  plainly  seen  as  through  glass.  This  I  boiled,  and  stretched 
on  a  piece  of  wood  to  the  requisite  diameter,  and  scraped  it  very 
thin,  in  order  to  increase  to  the  utmost  its  transparency.  I  then  se- 
cured it  firmly  in  its  place  on  the  instrument  with  strong  glue,  made 
from  a  bufifalo,  and  filled  it  with  mercury,  properly  heated.  A  piece 
of  skin,  which  had  covered  one  of  the  vials,  furnished  a  good  pocket, 
which  was  well  secured  with  strong  thread  and  glue,  and  then  the 
brass  cover  was  screwed  to  its  place.  The  instrument  was  left  some 


62.  In  the  1845  edition  of  his  report,  JCF  says  he  called  this  body  of  water 
Mountain  Lake  both  on  his  map  and  in  his  narrative.  None  of  his  maps 
carries  this  legend,  but  judging  from  the  description  of  the  lake  and  from  his 
position  at  the  time,  it  can  only  be  Boulder  Lake— lying  transversely  across 
his  route  between  T.  33  N.  and  T.  34  N.  It  is  about  seven  air-line  miles  east 
of  Pinedale,  Wyo. 

257 


time  to  dry,  and  when  I  reversed  it,  a  few  hours  after,  I  had  the 
satisfaction  to  find  it  in  perfect  order;  its  indications  being  about  the 
same  as  on  the  other  side  of  the  lake,  before  it  had  been  broken.  Our 
success  in  this  Httle  incident  diffused  pleasure  throughout  the  camp, 
and  we  immediately  set  about  our  preparations  for  ascending  the 
mountains. 

As  will  be  seen,  on  reference  to  a  map,  on  this  short  mountain 
chain  are  the  head  waters  of  four  great  rivers  of  the  continent; 
namely,  the  Colorado,  Columbia,  Missouri,  and  Platte  rivers.  It  had 
been  my  design,  after  having  ascended  the  mountains,  to  continue 
our  route  on  the  western  side  of  the  range,  and  crossing  through  a 
pass  at  the  northwestern  end  of  the  chain,  about  thirty  miles  from 
our  present  camp,  return  along  the  eastern  slope,  across  the  heads 
of  the  Yellowstone  river,  and  join  on  the  line  to  our  station  of  Au- 
gust 7,  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the  ridge.  In  this  way  I  should 
be  enabled  to  include  the  whole  chain,  and  its  numerous  waters,  in 
my  survey;  but  various  considerations  induced  me,  very  reluctantly, 
to  abandon  this  plan. 

I  was  desirous  to  keep  strictly  within  the  scope  of  my  instructions, 
and  it  would  have  required  ten  or  fifteen  additional  days  for  the 
accomplishment  of  this  object;  our  animals  had  become  very  much 
worn  out  with  the  length  of  the  journey;  game  was  very  scarce;  and, 
though  it  does  not  appear  in  the  course  of  the  narrative,  as  I  have 
avoided  dwelling  upon  trifling  incidents  not  connected  with  the 
objects  of  this  expedition,  the  spirits  of  the  men  had  been  much 
exhausted  by  the  hardships  and  privations  to  which  they  had  been 
subjected.  Our  provisions  had  well  nigh  all  disappeared.  Bread  had 
been  long  out  of  the  question,  and  of  all  our  stock  we  had  remaining 
two  or  three  pounds  of  coffee,  and  a  small  quantity  of  macaroni, 
which  had  been  husbanded  with  great  care  for  the  mountain  expedi- 
tion we  were  about  to  undertake.  Our  daily  meal  consisted  of  dry 
buffalo  meat,  cooked  in  tallow;  and,  as  we  had  not  dried  this  with 
Indian  skill,  part  of  it  was  spoiled;  and  what  remained  of  good,  was 
as  hard  as  wood,  having  much  the  taste  and  appearance  of  so  many 
pieces  of  bark.  Even  of  this  our  stock  was  rapidly  diminishing  in  a 
camp  which  was  capable  of  consuming  two  buffaloes  in  every 
twenty-four  hours.  These  animals  had  entirely  disappeared,  and  it 
was  not  probable  that  we  should  fall  in  with  them  again  until  we 
returned  to  the  Sweet  Water. 

Our  arrangements  for  the  ascent  were  rapidly  completed;   we 

258 


were  in  a  hostile  country,  which  rendered  the  greatest  vigilance  and 
circumspection  necessary.  The  pass  at  the  north  end  of  the  moun- 
tain was  generally  infested  by  Blackfeet,  and  immediately  opposite 
was  one  of  their  forts,  on  the  edge  of  a  little  thicket,  two  or  three 
hundred  feet  from  our  encampment.  We  were  posted  in  a  grove  of 
beech,  on  the  margin  of  the  lake,  and  a  few  hundred  feet  long,  with 
a  narrow  prairillon  on  the  inner  side,  bordered  by  the  rocky  ridge. 
In  the  upper  end  of  this  grove  we  cleared  a  circular  space  about  forty 
feet  in  diameter,  and  with  the  felled  timber  and  interwoven 
branches  surrounded  it  with  a  breastwork  five  feet  in  height.  A  gap 
was  left  for  a  gate  on  the  inner  side,  by  which  the  animals  were  to  be 
driven  in  and  secured,  while  the  men  slept  around  the  little  work. 
It  was  half  hidden  by  the  foliage;  and  garrisoned  by  twelve  resolute 
men,  would  have  set  at  defiance  any  band  of  savages  which  might 
chance  to  discover  them  in  the  interval  of  our  absence.  Fifteen  of  the 
best  mules,  with  fourteen  men,  were  selected  for  the  mountain 
party.  Our  provisions  consisted  of  dried  meat  for  two  days,  with 
our  little  stock  of  cofiFee  and  some  macaroni.  In  addition  to  the 
barometer  and  a  thermometer,  I  took  with  me  a  sextant  and  spy 
glass,  and  we  had,  of  course,  our  compasses.  In  charge  of  the  camp  I 
left  Bernier,  one  of  my  most  trustworthy  men,  who  possessed  the 
most  determined  courage. 

August  12. — Early  in  the  morning  we  left  the  camp,  fifteen  in 
number,  well  armed  of  course,  and  mounted  on  our  best  mules.  A 
pack  animal  carried  our  provisions,  with  a  coffee  pot  and  kettle, 
and  three  or  four  tin  cups.  Every  man  had  a  blanket  strapped  over 
his  saddle  to  serve  for  his  bed,  and  the  instruments  were  carried  by 
turns  on  their  backs.  We  entered  directly  on  rough  and  rocky 
ground;  and,  just  after  crossing  the  ridge,  had  the  good  fortune  to 
shoot  an  antelope.  We  heard  the  roar,  and  had  a  glimpse  of  a  water- 
fall as  we  rode  along;  and  crossing  in  our  way  two  fine  streams, 
tributary  to  the  Colorado,  in  about  two  hours'  ride  we  reached  the 
top  of  the  first  row  or  range  of  mountains.  Here,  again,  a  view  of 
the  most  romantic  beauty  met  our  eyes.  It  seemed  as  if,  from  the 
vast  expanse  of  uninteresting  prairie  we  had  passed  over,  nature  had 
collected  all  her  beauties  together  in  one  chosen  place.  We  were 
overlooking  a  deep  valley,  which  was  entirely  occupied  by  three 
lakes,  and  from  the  brink  the  surrounding  ridges  rose  precipitously 
five  hundred  and  a  thousand  feet,  covered  with  the  dark  green  of 
the  balsam  pine,  relieved  on  the  border  of  the  lake  with  the  light 

259 


foliage  of  the  aspen.  They  all  communicated  with  each  other,  and 
the  green  of  the  waters,  common  to  mountain  lakes  of  great  depth, 
showed  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  cross  them.  The  surprise 
manifested  by  our  guides  when  these  impassable  obstacles  suddenly 
barred  our  progress,  proved  that  they  were  among  the  hidden 
treasures  of  the  place,  unknown  even  to  the  wandering  trappers  of 
the  region.  Descending  the  hill,  we  proceeded  to  make  our  way 
along  the  margin  of  the  southern  extremity.  A  narrow  strip  of  angu- 
lar fragments  of  rock  sometimes  afforded  a  rough  pathway  for  our 
mules,  but  generally  we  rode  along  the  shelving  side,  occasionally 
scrambling  up  at  a  considerable  risk  of  tumbling  back  into  the  lake. 

The  slope  was  frequently  60°;  the  pines  grew  densely  together, 
and  the  ground  was  covered  with  the  branches  and  trunks  of  trees. 
The  air  was  fragrant  with  the  odor  of  the  pines;  and  I  realized 
this  delightful  morning  the  pleasure  of  breathing  that  mountain  air 
which  makes  a  constant  theme  of  the  hunter's  praise,  and  which 
now  made  us  feel  as  if  we  had  all  been  drinking  some  exhilarating 
gas.  The  depths  of  this  unexplored  forest  were  a  place  to  delight 
the  heart  of  a  botanist.  There  was  a  rich  undergrowth  of  plants, 
and  numerous  gay-colored  flowers  in  brilliant  bloom.  We  reached 
the  outlet  at  length,  where  some  freshly  barked  willows  that  lay 
in  the  water  showed  that  beaver  had  been  recently  at  work.  There 
were  some  small  brown  squirrels  jumping  about  in  the  pines,  and  a 
couple  of  large  mallard  ducks  swimming  about  in  the  stream. 

The  hills  on  this  southern  end  were  low,  and  the  lake  looked  like 
a  mimic  sea,  as  the  waves  broke  on  the  sandy  beach  in  the  force  of 
a  strong  breeze.  There  was  a  pretty,  open  spot,  with  fine  grass  for 
our  mules,  and  we  made  our  noon  halt  on  the  beach,  under  the 
shade  of  some  large  hemlocks.  We  resumed  our  journey  after  a  halt 
of  about  an  hour,  making  our  way  up  the  ridge  on  the  western  side 
of  the  lake.  In  search  of  smoother  ground,  we  rode  a  little  inland; 
and,  passing  through  groves  of  aspen,  soon  found  ourselves  again 
among  the  pines.  Emerging  from  these,  we  struck  the  summit  of 
the  ridge  above  the  upper  end  of  the  lake. 

We  had  reached  a  very  elevated  point,  and  in  the  valley  be- 
low, and  among  the  hills,  were  a  number  of  lakes  at  different 
levels;  some  two  or  three  hundred  feet  above  others,  with  which 
they  communicated  by  foaming  torrents.  Even  to  our  great  height 
the  roar  of  the  cataracts  came  up,  and  we  could  see  them  leaping 
down  in  lines  of  snowy  foam.  From  this  scene  of  busy  waters,  we 

260 


turned  abruptly  into  the  stillness  of  a  forest,  where  we  rode  among 
the  open  bolls  of  the  pines,  over  a  lawn  of  verdant  grass,  having 
strikingly  the  air  of  cultivated  grounds.  This  led  us,  after  a  time, 
among  masses  of  rock  which  had  no  vegetable  earth  but  in  hollows 
and  crevices,  though  still  the  pine  forest  continued.  Toward  evening, 
we  reached  a  defile,  or  rather  a  hole  in  the  mountains,  entirely  shut 
in  by  dark  pine-covered  rocks. 

A  small  stream,  with  a  scarcely  perceptible  current,  flowed 
through  a  level  bottom  of  perhaps  eighty  yards  width,  where  the 
grass  was  saturated  with  water.  Into  this  the  mules  were  turned,  and 
were  neither  hobbled  nor  picketed  during  the  night,  as  the  fine 
pasturage  took  away  all  temptation  to  stray;  and  we  made  our 
bivouac  in  the  pines.  The  surrounding  masses  were  all  of  granite. 
While  supper  was  being  prepared,  I  set  out  on  an  excursion  in  the 
neighborhood,  accompanied  by  one  of  my  men.  We  wandered 
about  among  the  crags  and  ravines  until  dark,  richly  repaid  for  our 
walk  by  a  fine  collection  of  plants,  many  of  them  in  full  bloom. 
Ascending  a  peak  to  find  the  place  of  our  camp,  we  saw  that  the 
little  defile  in  which  we  lay  communicated  with  the  long  green 
valley  of  some  stream,  which,  here  locked  up  in  the  mountains, 
far  away  to  the  south,  found  its  way  in  a  dense  forest  to  the  plains. 

Looking  along  its  upward  course,  it  seemed  to  conduct,  by  a 
smooth  gradual  slope,  directly  toward  the  peak,  which,  from  long 
consultation  as  we  approached  the  mountain,  we  had  decided  to  be 
the  highest  of  the  range.  Pleased  with  the  discovery  of  so  fine  a  road 
for  the  next  day,  we  hastened  down  to  the  camp,  where  we  arrived 
just  in  time  for  supper.  Our  table  service  was  rather  scant,  and  we 
held  the  meat  in  our  hands;  and  clean  rocks  made  good  plates,  on 
which  we  spread  our  macaroni.  Among  all  the  strange  places  on 
which  we  had  occasion  to  encamp  during  our  long  journey,  none 
have  left  so  vivid  an  impression  on  my  mind  as  the  camp  of  this 
evening.  The  disorder  of  the  masses  which  surrounded  us;  the  little 
hole  through  which  we  saw  the  stars  overhead;  the  dark  pines  where 
we  slept;  and  the  rocks  lit  up  with  the  glow  of  our  fires,  made  a 
night  picture  of  very  wild  beauty. 

August  13. — The  morning  was  bright  and  pleasant,  just  cool 
enough  to  make  exercise  agreeable,  and  we  soon  entered  the  defile  I 
had  seen  the  preceding  day.  It  was  smoothly  carpeted  with  a  soft 
grass,  and  scattered  over  with  groups  of  flowers,  of  which  yellow 
was  the  predominant  color.  Sometimes  we  were  forced  by  an  occa- 

261 


sional  difficult  pass  to  pick  our  way  on  a  narrow  ledge  along  the  side 
of  the  defile,  and  the  mules  were  frequently  on  their  knees;  but  these 
obstructions  were  rare,  and  we  journeyed  on  in  the  sweet  morning 
air,  delighted  at  our  good  fortune  in  having  found  such  a  beautiful 
entrance  to  the  mountains.  This  road  continued  for  about  three 
miles,  when  we  suddenly  reached  its  termination  in  one  of  the  grand 
views  which,  at  every  turn,  meet  the  traveller  in  this  magnificent  re- 
gion. Here  the  defile  up  which  we  had  travelled,  opened  out  into  a 
small  lawn,  where,  in  a  little  lake,  the  stream  had  its  source. 

There  were  some  fine  asters  in  bloom,  but  all  the  flowering  plants 
appeared  to  seek  the  shelter  of  the  rocks,  and  to  be  of  lower  growth 
than  below,  as  if  they  loved  the  warmth  of  the  soil,  and  kept  out  of 
the  way  of  the  winds.  Immediately  at  our  feet  a  precipitous  descent 
led  to  a  confusion  of  defiles,  and  before  us  rose  the  mountains  as  we 
have  represented  them  in  the  annexed  view.  It  is  not  by  the  splendor 
of  far  off  views,  which  have  lent  such  a  glory  to  the  Alps,  that  these 
impress  the  mind;  but  by  a  gigantic  disorder  of  enormous  masses, 
and  a  savage  sublimity  of  naked  rock,  in  wonderful  contrast  with 
innumerable  green  spots  of  a  rich  floral  beauty,  shut  up  in  their 
stern  recesses.  Their  wildness  seems  well  suited  to  the  character  of 
the  people  who  inhabit  the  country. 

I  determined  to  leave  our  animals  here,  and  make  the  rest  of  our 
way  on  foot.  The  peak  appeared  so  near,  that  there  was  no  doubt  of 
our  returning  before  night,  and  a  few  men  were  left  in  charge  of  the 
mules,  with  our  provisions  and  blankets.  We  took  with  us  nothing 
but  our  arms  and  instruments,  and  as  the  day  had  become  warm,  the 
greater  part  left  our  coats.  Having  made  an  early  dinner,  we  started 
again.  We  were  soon  involved  in  the  most  ragged  precipices,  nearing 
the  central  chain  very  slowly,  and  rising  but  little.  The  first  ridge  hid 
a  succession  of  others,  and  when  with  great  fatigue  and  difficulty  we 
had  climbed  up  five  hundred  feet,  it  was  but  to  make  an  equal  de- 
scent on  the  other  side;  all  these  intervening  places  were  filled  with 
small  deep  lakes,  which  met  the  eye  in  every  direction,  descending 
from  one  level  to  another,  sometimes  under  bridges  formed  by  huge 
fragments  of  granite,  beneath  which  was  heard  the  roar  of  the  water. 
These  constantly  obstructed  our  path,  forcing  us  to  make  long  de- 
tours; frequently  obliged  to  retrace  our  steps,  and  frequently  falling 
among  the  rocks.  Maxwell  was  precipitated  toward  the  face  of  a 
precipice,  and  saved  himself  from  going  over  by  throwing  himself 
flat  on  the  ground.  We  clambered  on,  always  expecting,  with  every 

262 


ridge  that  we  crossed,  to  reach  the  foot  of  the  peaks,  and  always  dis- 
appointed, until  about  4  o'clock,  when,  pretty  well  worn  out,  we 
reached  the  shore  of  a  little  lake,  in  which  there  was  a  rocky  island, 
and  from  which  we  obtained  the  view  given  in  the  frontispiece 
[p.  264].  We  remained  here  a  short  time  to  rest,  and  continued  on 
around  the  lake,  which  had  in  some  places  a  beach  of  white  sand, 
and  in  others  was  bound  with  rocks,  over  which  the  way  was  diffi- 
cult and  dangerous,  as  the  water  from  innumerable  springs  made 
them  very  slippery. 

By  the  time  we  had  reached  the  further  side  of  the  lake,  we  found 
ourselves  all  exceedingly  fatigued,  and  much  to  the  satisfaction  of 
the  whole  party,  we  encamped.  The  spot  we  had  chosen  was  a  broad 
flat  rock,  in  some  measure  protected  from  the  winds  by  the  sur- 
rounding crags,  and  the  trunks  of  fallen  pines  afforded  us  bright 
fires.  Near  by  was  a  foaming  torrent,  which  tumbled  into  the  little 
lake  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  below  us,  and  which,  by  way 
of  distinction,  we  have  called  Island  lake.^''  We  had  reached  the  up- 
per limit  of  the  piney  region ;  as,  above  this  point,  no  tree  was  to  be 
seen,  and  patches  of  snow  lay  everywhere  around  us  on  the  cold  sides 
of  the  rocks.  The  flora  of  the  region  we  had  traversed  since  leaving 
our  mules  was  extremely  rich  and,  among  the  characteristic  plants, 
the  scarlet  flowers  of  the  dodecatheon  detitatum  everywhere  met  the 
eye  in  great  abundance.  A  small  green  ravine,  on  the  edge  of  which 
we  were  encamped,  was  filled  with  a  profusion  of  alpine  plants  in 
brillant  bloom.*'''  From  barometrical  observations,  made  during  our 
three  days'  sojourn  at  this  place,  its  elevation  above  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico  is  10,000  feet.**-^  During  the  day,  we  had  seen  no  sign  of  ani- 
mal life;  but  among  the  rocks  here,  we  heard  what  was  supposed  to 


63.  Island  Lake  is  about  eighteen  air-line  miles  northeast  of  Pinedale.  When 
the  senior  editor  followed  JCF's  route  in  May  and  June  1967,  he  left  his 
(JCF's)  trail  at  Boulder  Lake,  bonney  &  bonney  take  up  the  trail  here  at 
Island  Lake,  but  his  route  between  those  two  lakes  is  still  conjectural.  The 
current  map  of  the  Bridger  Division,  Bridger  National  Forest,  shows  several 
trails  in  the  area  between  the  two  lakes,  the  most  direct  passing  those  lakes 
now  named  George,  Horseshoe,  Barnes,  Spruce,  Chain,  Polecreek,  Nelson,  and 
Seneca.  Here  JCF  is  traveling  almost  due  north.  From  Island  Lake  to  the 
peak  which  he  climbs,  we  rely  mainly  on  the  observations  of  the  Bonneys. 

64.  Added  to  this  sentence  in  the  manuscript  draft:  "among  which  a 
beautiful  auricula  delighted  us  with  the  associations  of  civilization." 

65.  Deleted  from  the  end  of  this  sentence  in  the  manuscript  draft:  "We 
had  nothing  to  eat  tonight." 

263 


c 
o 


> 


o 

> 


264 


be  the  bleat  of  a  young  goat,  which  we  searched  for  with  hungry 
activity,  and  found  to  proceed  from  a  small  animal  of  a  gray  color, 
with  short  ears  and  no  tail ;  probably  the  Siberian  squirrel.  We  saw  a 
considerable  number  of  them,  and  with  the  exception  of  a  small  bird 
like  a  sparrow,  it  is  the  only  inhabitant  of  this  elevated  part  of  the 
mountains.  On  our  return,  we  saw,  below  this  lake,  large  flocks  of 
the  mountain  goat.  We  had  nothing  to  eat  to-night.  Lajeunesse,  with 
several  others,  took  their  guns,  and  sallied  out  in  search  of  a  goat; 
but  returned  unsuccessful.  At  sunset,  the  barometer  stood  at  20.522; 
the  attached  thermometer  50°.  Here  we  had  the  misfortune  to  break 
our  thermometer,  having  now  only  that  attached  to  the  barometer. 
I  was  taken  ill  shortly  after  we  had  encamped,  and  continued  so 
until  late  in  the  night,  with  violent  headache  and  vomiting.  This  was 
probably  caused  by  the  excessive  fatigue  I  had  undergone,  and  want 
of  food,  and  perhaps  also  in  some  measure,  by  the  rarity  of  the  air. 
The  night  was  cold,  as  a  violent  gale  from  the  north  had  sprung  up 
at  sunset,  which  entirely  blew  away  the  heat  of  the  fires.  The  cold, 
and  our  granite  beds,  had  not  been  favorable  to  sleep,  and  we  were 
glad  to  see  the  face  of  the  sun  in  the  morning.  Not  being  delayed  by 
any  preparation  for  breakfast,  we  set  out  immediately. 

On  every  side  as  we  advanced  was  heard  the  roar  of  waters,  and 
of  a  torrent,  which  we  followed  up  a  short  distance,  until  it  ex- 
panded into  a  lake  about  one  mile  in  length.  On  the  northern  side 
of  the  lake  was  a  bank  of  ice,  or  rather  of  snow,  covered  with  a  crust 
of  ice.  Carson  had  been  our  guide  into  the  mountains,  and  agreeably 
to  his  advice,  we  left  this  litde  valley,  and  took  to  the  ridges  again ; 
which  we  found  extremely  broken,  and  where  we  were  again  in- 
volved among  precipices.  Here  were  ice  fields,  among  which  we 
were  all  dispersed,  seeking  each  the  best  path  to  ascend  the  peak.  Mr. 
Preuss  attempted  to  walk  along  the  upper  edge  of  one  of  these  fields, 
which  sloped  away  at  an  angle  of  about  twenty  degrees;  but  his  feet 
slipped  from  under  him,  and  he  went  plunging  down  the  plane.  A 
few  hundred  feet  below,  at  the  bottom,  were  some  fragments  of 
sharp  rock,  on  which  he  landed ;  and  though  he  turned  a  couple  of 
somersets,  fortunately  received  no  injury  beyond  a  few  bruises.  Two 
of  the  men,  Clement  Lambert  and  Descoteaux,*'*'  had  been  taken  ill. 


66.  This  man,  called  de  Couteau  in  preuss,  44,  does  not  appear  in  the 
vouchers  or  in  JCF's  roster  of  the  party.  He  does  appear,  however,  in  a  passage 
deleted  from  the  manuscript  draft  (note  8,  above).  A  man  of  this  name  took 
passage  to  St.  Louis  with  Maximilian,  Prince  of  Wied-Neuwied,  at  Fort  Pierre 

265 


and  laid  down  on  the  rocks  a  short  distance  below;  and  at  this  point 
I  was  attacked  with  headache  and  giddiness,  accompanied  by  vomit- 
ing, as  on  the  day  before.  Finding  myself  unable  to  proceed,  I  sent 
the  barometer  over  to  Mr.  Preuss,  who  was  in  a  gap  two  or  three 
hundred  yards  distant,  desiring  him  to  reach  the  peak,  if  possible, 
and  take  an  observation  there.*^^  He  found  himself  unable  to  proceed 
further  in  that  direction,  and  took  an  observation,  where  the  barom- 
eter stood  at  19.401 ;  attached  thermometer  50°,  in  the  gap.  Carson, 
who  had  gone  over  to  him,  succeeded  in  reaching  one  of  the  snowy 
summits  of  the  main  ridge,  whence  he  saw  the  peak  towards  which 
all  our  efforts  had  been  directed,  towering  eight  or  ten  hundred  feet 
into  the  air  above  him.  In  the  mean  time,  finding  myself  grow  rather 
worse  than  better,  and  doubtful  how  far  my  strength  would  carry 
me,  I  sent  Basil  Lajeunesse,  with  four  men,  iDack  to  the  place  where 
the  mules  had  been  left. 

We  were  now  better  acquainted  with  the  topography  of  the  coun- 
try, and  I  directed  him  to  bring  back  with  him,  if  it  were  in  any  way 
possible,  four  or  five  mules,  with  provisions  and  blankets.  With  me 
were  Maxwell  and  Ayot;  and  after  we  had  remained  nearly  an  hour 
on  the  rock,  it  became  so  unpleasantly  cold,  though  the  day  was 
bright,  that  we  set  out  on  our  return  to  the  camp,  at  which  we  all 
arrived  safely,  straggling  in  one  after  the  other.  I  continued  ill  dur- 
ing the  afternoon,  but  became  better  towards  sundown,  when  my 
recovery  was  completed  by  the  appearance  of  Basil  and  four  men, 
all  mounted.  The  men  who  had  gone  with  him  had  been  too  much 
fatigued  to  return,  and  were  relieved  by  those  in  charge  of  the 
horses;  but  in  his  powers  of  endurance  Basil  resembled  more  a 
mountain  goat  than  a  man.  They  brought  blankets  and  provisions, 
and  we  enjoyed  well  our  dried  meat  and  a  cup  of  good  coffee.  We 
rolled  ourselves  up  in  our  blankets,  and  with  our  feet  turned  to  a 
blazing  fire,  slept  soundly  until  morning. 

August  15. — It  had  been  supposed  that  we  had  finished  with  the 
mountains;  and  the  evening  before,  it  had  been  arranged  that  Car- 


in  1834,  and  brought  a  shipment  of  beaver  skins  down  to  Liberty,  Mo.  ( Maxi- 
milian, 24:92-93,  117).  In  late  1842  or  early  1843,  a  man  referred  to  as 
Michael  Des  Coteaux  was  wounded  in  a  fray  at  Long  Point,  sometimes  called 
McKenzie's  Point,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Cheyenne  River  (A.  R.  Bonis  to 
Andrew  Drips,  18  April  1843,  MoSHi — Drips  Papers). 

67.  See  preuss,  39-45,  for  his  own  account  of  the  climb.  He  is  sardonic, 
as  usual. 

266 


son  should  set  out  at  daylight,  and  return  to  breakfast  at  the  Camp 
of  the  Mules,  taking  with  him  all  but  four  or  five  men,  who  were  to 
stay  with  me  and  bring  back  the  mules  and  instruments.  Accordingly, 
at  the  break  of  day  they  set  out.  With  Mr.  Preuss  and  myself  re- 
mained Basil  Lajeunesse,  Clement  Lambert,  Janisse,  and  Descoteaux. 
When  we  had  secured  strength  for  the  day  by  a  hearty  breakfast,  we 
covered  what  remained,  which  was  enough  for  one  meal,  with  rocks, 
in  order  that  it  might  be  safe  from  any  marauding  bird;  and,  sad- 
dling our  mules,  turned  our  faces  once  more  towards  the  peaks.  This 
time  we  determined  to  proceed  quietly  and  cautiously,  deliberately 
resolved  to  accomplish  our  object  if  it  were  within  the  compass  of 
human  means.  We  were  of  opinion  that  a  long  defile  which  lay  to 
the  left  of  yesterday's  route  would  lead  us  to  the  foot  of  the  main 
peak.*^^  Our  mules  had  been  refreshed  by  the  fine  grass  in  the  little  ra- 
vine at  the  island  camp,  and  we  intended  to  ride  up  the  defile  as  far  as 
possible,  in  order  to  husband  our  strength  for  the  main  ascent.  Though 
this  was  a  fine  passage,  still  it  was  a  defile  of  the  most  rugged  moun- 
tains known,  and  we  had  many  a  rough  and  steep  slippery  place  to 
cross  before  reaching  the  end.  In  this  place  the  sun  rarely  shone, 
snow  lay  along  the  border  of  the  small  stream  which  flowed  through 
it,  and  occasional  icy  passages  made  the  footing  of  the  mules  very 
insecure,  and  the  rocks  and  ground  were  moist  with  the  trickling 
waters  in  this  spring  of  mighty  rivers.  We  soon  had  the  satisfaction 
to  find  ourselves  riding  along  the  huge  wall  which  forms  the  central 
summits  of  the  chain.  There  at  last  it  rose  by  our  sides,  a  nearly  per- 
pendicular wall  of  granite,  terminating  2,000  to  3,000  feet  above  our 
heads  in  a  serrated  line  of  broken,  jagged  cones.^''  We  rode  on 
until  we  came  almost  immediately  below  the  main  peak,  which  I 
denominated  the  Snow  Peak,  as  it  exhibited  more  snow  to  the  eye 
than  any  of  the  neighboring  summits.  Here  were  three  small  lakes 
[Titcomb  Lakes]  of  a  green  color,  each  of  perhaps  a  thousand  yards 
in  diameter,  and  apparently  very  deep.  These  lay  in  a  kind  of  chasm; 
and,  according  to  the  barometer,  we  had  attained  but  a  few  hundred 
feet  above  the  Island  lake.  The  barometer  here  stood  at  20.450,  at- 
tached thermometer  70°. 


68.  "The  climber  who  will  leave  Island  Lake  and  start  for  Woodrow  Wil- 
son [Peak]  can  follow  this  route  all  the  way  up  the  Titcomb  Valley"  (bon- 

NEY  &  BONNEY,  98). 

69.  The  west  wall  of  Fremont,  Sacagawea,  and   Helen   peaks   (bonney  & 
BONNEY,  98). 

267 


268 


We  managed  to  get  our  mules  up  to  a  little  bench  about  a  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  lakes,  where  there  was  a  patch  of  good  grass,  and 
turned  them  loose  to  graze.  During  our  rough  ride  to  this  place, 
they  had  exhibited  a  wonderful  surefootedness.  Parts  of  the  defile 
were  filled  with  angular,  sharp  fragments  of  rock,  three  or  four  and 
eight  or  ten  feet  cube;  and  among  these  they  had  worked  their  way, 
leaping  from  one  narrow  point  to  another,  rarely  making  a  false 
step,  and  giving  us  no  occasion  to  dismount.  Having  divested  our- 
selves of  every  unnecessary  encumbrance,  we  commenced  the  ascent. 
This  time,  like  experienced  travellers,  we  did  not  press  ourselves,  but 
climbed  leisurely,  sitting  down  so  soon  as  we  found  breath  begin- 
ning to  fail.  At  intervals  we  reached  places  where  a  number  of 
springs  gushed  from  the  rocks,  and  about  1,800  feet  above  the  lakes 
came  to  the  snow  line.  From  this  point  our  progress  was  uninter- 
rupted climbing.  Hitherto  I  had  worn  a  pair  of  thick  moccasins, 
with  soles  of  parfleche;  but  here  I  put  on  a  light  thin  pair,  which  I 
had  brought  for  the  purpose,  as  now  the  use  of  our  toes  became 
necessary  to  a  further  advance.  I  availed  myself  of  a  sort  of  comb  of 
the  mountain,  which  stood  against  the  wall  like  a  buttress,  and 
which  the  wind  and  the  solar  radiation,  joined  to  the  steepness  of  the 
smooth  rock,  had  kept  almost  entirely  free  from  snow.  Up  this  I 
made  my  way  rapidly.  Our  cautious  method  of  advancing  in  the 
outset  had  spared  my  strength;  and,  with  the  exception  of  a  slight 
disposition  to  headache,  I  felt  no  remains  of  yesterday's  illness.  In  a 
few  minutes  we  reached  a  point  where  the  buttress  was  overhanging, 
and  there  was  no  other  way  of  surmounting  the  difficulty  than  by 
passing  around  one  side  of  it,  which  was  the  face  of  a  vertical  preci- 
pice of  several  hundred  feet. 

Putting  hands  and  feet  in  the  crevices  between  the  blocks,  I  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  over  it,  and,  when  I  reached  the  top,  found  my 
companions  in  a  small  valley  below.  Descending  to  them,  we  con- 
tinued climbing,  and  in  a  short  time  reached  the  crest.  I  sprang  upon 
the  summit,  and  another  step  would  have  precipitated  me  into  an 
immense  snow  field  five  hundred  feet  below.  To  the  edge  of  this 
field  was  a  sheer  icy  precipice;  and  then,  with  a  gradual  fall,  the 
field  sloped  of?  for  about  a  mile,  until  it  struck  the  foot  of  another 
lower  ridge.  I  stood  on  a  narrow  crest,  about  three  feet  in  width, 
with  an  inclination  of  about  20°  N.  51°  E.  As  soon  as  I  had  gratified 
the  first  feelings  of  curiosity  I  descended,  and  each  man  ascended  in 
his  turn,  for  I  would  only  allow  one  at  a  time  to  mount  the  unstable 

269 


and  precarious  slab,  which  it  seemed  a  breath  would  hurl  into  the 
abyss  below.  We  mounted  the  barometer  in  the  snow  of  the  summit, 
and  fixing  a  ramrod  in  a  crevice,  unfurled  the  national  flag  to  wave 
in  the  breeze  where  never  flag  waved  before/"  During  our  morning's 
ascent  we  had  met  no  sign  of  animal  life  except  the  small  sparrow- 
like bird  already  mentioned.  A  stillness  the  most  profound  and  a 
terrible  solitude  forced  themselves  constantly  on  the  mind  as  the 
great  features  of  the  place.  Here  on  the  summit,  where  the  stillness 
was  absolute,  unbroken  by  any  sound,  and  the  solitude  complete, 
we  thought  ourselves  beyond  the  region  of  animated  life;  but  while 
we  were  sitting  on  the  rock  a  solitary  bee  {bromus,  the  bumble  bee) 
came  winging  his  flight  from  the  eastern  valley,  and  lit  on  the  knee 
of  one  of  the  men.^^ 

It  was  a  strange  place,  the  icy  rock  and  the  highest  peak  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  for  a  lover  of  warm  sunshine  and  flowers,  and  we 
pleased  ourselves  with  the  idea  that  he  was  the  first  of  his  species  to 
cross  the  mountain  barrier,  a  solitary  pioneer  to  foretell  the  advance 
of  civilization.  I  believe  that  a  moment's  thought  would  have  made 
us  let  him  continue  his  way  unharmed,  but  we  carried  out  the  law  of 
this  country,  where  all  animated  nature  seems  at  war;  and  seizing 
him  immediately,  put  him  in  at  least  a  fit  place,  in  the  leaves  of  a 
large  book,  among  the  flowers  we  had  collected  on  our  way.  The 
barometer  stood  at  18.293,  the  attached  thermometer  at  44°,  giving 
for  the  elevation  of  this  summit  13,570  feet  above  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
which  may  be  called  the  highest  flight  of  the  bee.  It  is  certainly  the 
highest  known  flight  of  that  insect.  From  the  description  given  by 
Mackenzie^"  of  the  mountains  where  he  crossed  them,  with  that  of 


70.  He  is  not  on  Fremont  Peak,  but  probably  on  one  farther  north  which 
the  Bonneys  call  Woodrow  Wilson  Peak,  just  south  of  Gannett  Peak.  A  party 
of  the  American  Alpine  Club  climbed  the  peak  in  1951,  checking  JCF's 
description  of  his  ascent  against  their  own  observations,  and  concluded  that 
he  could  have  been  on  no  other  peak  in  the  area.  The  flag,  which  }CF  pre- 
sented to  Jessie  upon  the  birth  of  their  daughter  Elizabeth,  was  a  special 
variation  on  the  usual  stars  and  stripes.  In  addition  to  thirteen  stripes  and 
twenty-six  stars,  it  bore  an  American  eagle  holding  arrows  and  an  Indian 
peace  pipe  in  its  claws.  The  flag  is  now  in  the  Southwest  Museum,  Los 
Angeles. 

71.  Bombus  species,  the  bumblebee. 

72.  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  (1755P-1820)  was  the  first  explorer  to  cross 
the  North  American  continent  north  of  Mexico,  making  the  trip  in  1793.  The 
French  officer  of  whom  JCF  speaks  may  be  Gabriel  Franchere  (1786-1863), 
one  of  the  Astorians  who  reached  the  Columbia  on  the  Tonqiun  in  1811.  He 

270 


a  French  officer  still  farther  to  the  north,  and  Colonel  Long's  mea- 
surements to  the  south,  joined  to  the  opinion  of  the  oldest  traders  of 
the  country,  it  is  presumed  that  this  is  the  highest  peak  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains."  The  day  was  sunny  and  bright,  but  a  slight  shining 
mist  hung  over  the  lower  plains,  which  interfered  with  our  view  of 
the  surrounding  country.  On  one  side  we  overlooked  innumerable 
lakes  and  streams,  the  spring  of  the  Colorado  of  the  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia; and  on  the  other  was  the  Wind  River  valley,  where  were  the 
heads  of  the  Yellowstone  branch  of  the  Missouri;  far  to  the  north, 
we  just  could  discover  the  snowy  heads  of  the  Trois  Tetons,  where 
were  the  sources  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  rivers;  and  at  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  ridge  the  peaks  were  plainly  visible, 
among  which  were  some  of  the  springs  of  the  Nebraska  or  Platte 
river.  Around  us  the  whole  scene  had  one  main  striking  feature, 
which  was  that  of  terrible  convulsion.  Parallel  to  its  length,  the  ridge 
was  split  into  chasms  and  fissures;  between  which  rose  the  thin  lofty 
walls,  terminated  with  slender  minarets  and  columns,  which  is  cor- 
rectly represented  in  the  view  from  the  camp  on  Island  lake.  Accord- 
ing to  the  barometer,  the  little  crest  of  the  wall  on  which  we  stood 
was  three  thousand  five  hundred  and  seventy  feet  above  that  place, 
and  two  thousand  seven  hundred  and  eighty  above  the  little  lakes  at 
the  bottom,  immediately  at  our  feet.  Our  camp  at  the  Two  Hills 
(an  astronomical  station)  bore  south  3°  east,"  which,  with  a  bearing 
afterward  obtained  from  a  fixed  position,  enabled  us  to  locate  the 
peak.  The  bearing  of  the  Trois  Tetons  was  north  50°  west,  and  the 

returned  by  land  to  Montreal  in  1814,  crossing  the  main  range  of  the  Rockies 
by  way  of  Athabasca  Pass.  Franchere's  journal  was  published  in  French  and 
in  several  English  translations,  beginning  in  1820.  Senator  Benton,  in  a  speech 
on  the  Oregon  question  {Congressional  Globe,  2S  May  1846),  acknowledged 
having  read  it  in  French,  and  the  chances  are  good  that  JCF  had  seen  it, 
perhaps  in  the  Benton  household.  The  mention  of  Major  Long  refers  to 
Stephen  H.  Long's  reconnaissance  of  a  part  of  the  Front  Range  of  the  Rockies 
in  1820. 

73.  An  incautious  statement,  for  the  next  peak  to  the  north  is  higher,  and 
so  are  dozens  of  others  in  the  Rockies.  JCF's  measurement  of  the  peak  at 
about  13,500  feet  is  quite  accurate,  and  it  would  have  been  impossible  for  him 
to  detect  with  the  eye  the  fact  that  (rannett  Peak  is — at  13,785  feet — consider- 
ably higher.  This  is  especially  true  when  Woodrow  Wilson  Peak  is  ascended 
by  the  route  which  JCF  used,  and  from  which  it  appears  to  tower  above 
CJannett.  At  14,431  feet,  Mount  Elbert  in  central  Colorado  is  the  highest  peak 
in  the  Rockies,  but  there  are  many  more  which  exceed  14,000  feet. 

74.  "This  bearing  checks  with  Woodrow  Wilson,  but  not  with  Fremont 
Peak"  (bonney  &  bonney,  99). 

271 


direction  of  the  central  ridge  of  the  Wind  River  mountains  south 
39°  east.  The  summit  rock  was  gneiss,  succeeded  by  syenitic  gneiss. 
Syenite  and  feldspar  succeeded  in  our  descent  to  the  snow  line, 
where  we  found  a  feldspathic  granite.  I  had  remarked  that  the  noise 
produced  by  the  explosion  of  our  pistols  had  the  usual  degree  of 
loudness,  but  was  not  in  the  least  prolonged,  expiring  almost  in- 
stantaneously. Having  now  made  what  observations  our  means  af- 
forded, we  proceeded  to  descend.  We  had  accomplished  an  object 
of  laudable  ambition,  and  beyond  the  strict  order  of  our  instructions. 
We  had  climbed  the  loftiest  peak  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
looked  down  upon  the  snow  a  thousand  feet  below,  and  standing 
where  never  human  foot  had  stood  before,  felt  the  exultation  of 
first  explorers.  It  was  about  2  o'clock  when  we  left  the  summit,  and 
when  we  reached  the  bottom  the  sun  had  already  sunk  behind  the 
wall,  and  the  day  was  drawing  to  a  close.  It  would  have  been  pleas- 
ant to  have  lingered  here  and  on  the  summit  longer,  but  we  hurried 
away  as  rapidly  as  the  ground  would  permit,  for  it  was  an  object  to 
regain  our  party  as  soon  as  possible,  not  knowing  what  accident  the 
next  hour  might  bring  forth. 

We  reached  our  deposit  of  provisions  at  nightfall.  Here  was  not 
the  inn  which  awaits  the  tired  traveller  on  his  return  from  Mont 
Blanc,  or  the  orange  groves  of  South  America,  with  their  refreshing 
juices  and  soft  fragrant  air;  but  we  found  our  little  cache  of  dried 
meat  and  coflFee  undisturbed.  Though  the  moon  was  bright,  the 
road  was  full  of  precipices,  and  the  fatigue  of  the  day  had  been  great. 
We  therefore  abandoned  the  idea  of  rejoining  our  friends,  and  lay 
down  on  the  rock,  and,  in  spite  of  the  cold,  slept  soundly. 

August  16.— We  left  our  encampment  with  the  daylight.  We  saw 
on  our  way  large  flocks  of  the  mountain  goat  looking  down  on  us 
from  the  cliffs.  At  the  crack  of  a  rifle  they  would  bound  off  among 
the  rocks,  and  in  a  few  minutes  make  their  appearance  on  some 
lofty  peak,  some  hundred  or  a  thousand  feet  above.  It  is  needless  to 
attempt  any  further  description  of  the  country;  the  portion  over 
which  we  travelled  this  morning  was  rough  as  imagination  could 
picture  it,  and  to  us  seemed  equally  beautiful.  A  concourse  of  lakes 
and  rushing  waters,  mountains  of  rocks  naked  and  destitute  of  vege- 
table earth,  dells  and  ravines  of  the  most  exquisite  beauty,  all  kept 
green  and  fresh  by  the  great  moisture  in  the  air,  and  sown  with 
briUiant  flowers,  and  every  where  thrown  around  all  the  glory  of 


272 


most  magnificent  scenes;  these  constitute  the  features  of  the  place, 
and  impress  themselves  vividly  on  the  mind  of  the  traveller.  It  wsls 
not  until  11  o'clock  that  we  reached  the  place  where  our  animals 
had  been  left,  when  we  first  attempted  the  mountains  on  foot.  Near 
one  of  the  still  burning  fires  we  found  a  piece  of  meat,  which  our 
friends  had  thrown  away,  and  which  furnished  us  a  mouthful — a 
very  scanty  breakfast.  We  continued  directly  on,  and  reached  our 
camp  on  the  mountain  lake  at  dusk.  We  found  all  well.  Nothing 
had  occurred  to  interrupt  the  quiet  since  our  departure,  and  the  fine 
grass  and  good  cool  water  had  done  much  to  re-establish  our  ani- 
mals. All  heard  with  great  delight  the  order  to  turn  our  faces  home- 
ward; and  toward  sundown  of  the  17th,  we  encamped  again  at  the 
Two  Buttes. 

In  the  course  of  this  afternoon's  march,  the  barometer  was  broken 
past  remedy.  I  regretted  it,  as  I  was  desirous  to  compare  it  again 
with  Dr.  Engelman's  barometers  at  St.  Louis,  to  which  mine  were 
referred ;  but  it  had  done  its  part  well,  and  my  objects  were  mainly 
fulfilled. 

August  19. — We  left  our  camp  on  Little  Sandy  river  about  7  in 
the  morning,  and  traversed  the  same  sandy  undulating  country.  The 
air  was  filled  with  the  turpentine  scent  of  the  various  artemisias, 
which  are  now  in  bloom,  and  numerous  as  they  are,  give  much 
gaiety  to  the  landscape  of  the  plains.  At  10  o'clock,  we  stood  exactly 
on  the  divide  in  the  pass,  where  the  wagon  road  crosses,  and  descend- 
ing immediately  upon  the  Sweet  Water,  halted  to  take  a  meridian 
observation  of  the  sun.  The  latitude  was  42°  24'  32". 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon  we  saw  buffalo  again,  and  at  our 
evening  halt  on  the  Sweet  Water,  the  roasted  ribs  again  made  their 
appearance  around  the  fires,  and  with  them,  good  humor  and  laugh- 
ter, and  song  were  restored  to  the  camp.  Our  coffee  had  been  ex- 
pended, but  we  now  made  a  kind  of  tea  from  the  roots  of  the  wild 
cherry  tree. 

August  23. — Yesterday  evening  we  reached  our  encampment  at 
Rock  Independence,  where  I  took  some  astronomical  observations. 
Here,  not  unmindful  of  the  custom  of  early  travellers  and  explorers 
in  our  country,  I  engraved  on  this  rock  of  the  Far  West  a  symbol  of 
the  Christian  faith.  Among  the  thickly  inscribed  names,  I  made  on 
the  hard  granite  the  impression  of  a  large  cross,  which  I  covered 
with  a  black  preparation  of  India  rubber,  well  calculated  to  resist 


273 


the  influence  of  wind  and  rain.  It  stands  amidst  the  names  of  many 
who  have  long  since  found  their  way  to  the  grave,  and  for  whom  the 
huge  rock  is  a  giant  grave  stone. 

One  George  Weymouth  was  sent  out  to  Maine  by  the  Earl  of 
Southampton,  Lord  Arundel,  and  others;  and  in  the  narrative  of 
their  discoveries,  he  says:  "The  next  day,  we  ascended  in  our  pin- 
nace, that  part  of  the  river  which  lies  more  to  the  westward,  carrying 
with  us  a  cross — a  thing  never  omitted  by  any  Christian  traveller — 
which  we  erected  at  the  ultimate  end  of  our  route."  This  was  in  the 
year  1605,  and  in  1842  I  obeyed  the  feeling  of  early  travellers,  and 
left  the  impression  of  the  cross  deeply  engraved  on  the  vast  rock  one 
thousand  miles  beyond  the  Mississippi,  to  which  discoverers  have 
given  the  national  name  of  Roc}{  Independence?'' 

In  obedience  to  my  instructions  to  survey  the  river  Platte,  if  pos- 
sible, I  had  determined  to  make  an  attempt  at  this  place.  The  India- 
rubber  boat  was  filled  with  air,  placed  in  the  water,  and  loaded  with 
what  was  necessary  for  our  operations;  and  I  embarked  with  Mr. 
Preuss  and  a  party  of  men.  When  we  had  dragged  our  boat  for  a 
mile  or  two  over  the  sands,  I  abandoned  the  impossible  undertaking, 
and  waited  for  the  arrival  of  the  party,  when  we  packed  up  our  boat 
and  equipage,  and  at  9  o'clock  were  again  moving  along  on  our  land 
journey.  We  continued  along  the  valley  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Sweet  Water,  where  the  formation,  as  already  described,  consists  of 
a  grayish  micaceous  sandstone,  and  fine-grained  conglomerate,  and 
marl.  We  passed  over  a  ridge  which  borders  or  constitutes  the  river 
hills  of  the  Platte,  consisting  of  huge  blocks  sixty  or  eighty  feet  cube 
of  decomposing  granite.  The  cement  which  united  them  was  prob- 
ably of  easier  decomposition,  and  has  disappeared  and  left  them  iso- 
late, and  separated  by  small  spaces.  Numerous  horns  of  the  mountain 
goat  were  lying  among  the  rocks,  and  in  the  ravines  were  cedars, 
whose  trunks  were  of  extraordinary  size.  From  this  ridge  we  de- 
scended to  a  small  open  plain  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water, 
which  rushed  with  a  rapid  current  into  the  Platte,  here  flowing 
along  in  a  broad,  tranquil,  and  apparently  deep  stream,  which 
seemed,  from  its  turbid  appearance  to  be  considerably  swollen.  I  ob- 


75.  JCF's  political  opponents  will  later  use  this  incident  as  evidence  when 
they  "charge"  him  with  being  a  Roman  Catholic  during  the  presidential  cam- 
paign of  1856. 


274 


tained  here  some  astronomical  observations,  and  the  afternoon  was 
spent  in  getting  our  boat  ready  for  navigation  the  next  day.^^ 

August  24. — We  started  before  sunrise,  intending  to  breakfast  at 
Goat  island.  I  had  directed  the  land  party,  in  charge  of  Bernier,  to 
proceed  to  this  place,  where  they  were  to  remain,  should  they  find 
no  note  to  apprise  them  of  our  having  passed.  In  the  event  of  re- 
ceiving this  information,  they  were  to  continue  their  route,  passing 
by  certain  places  which  had  been  designated.  Mr.  Preuss  accom- 
panied me,  and  with  us  were  five  of  my  best  men,  viz:  C.  Lambert, 
Basil  Lajeunesse,  Honore  Ayot,  Benoist,  and  Descoteaux.  Here  ap- 
peared no  scarcity  of  water,  and  we  took  on  board,  with  various  in- 
struments and  baggage,  provisions  for  ten  or  twelve  days.  We 
paddled  down  the  river  rapidly,  for  our  little  craft  was  light  as  a 
duck  on  the  water,  and  the  sun  had  been  some  time  risen,  when  we 
heard  before  us  a  hollow  roar,  which  we  supposed  to  be  that  of  a  fall 
of  which  we  had  heard  a  vague  rumor,  but  whose  exact  locality  no 
one  had  been  able  to  describe  to  us.  We  were  approaching  a  ridge, 
through  which  the  river  passes  by  a  place  called  "canon"  (pro- 
nounced kanyon),  a  Spanish  word,  signifying  a  piece  of  artillery, 
the  barrel  of  a  gun,  or  any  kind  of  tube;  and  which,  in  this  country, 
has  been  adopted  to  describe  the  passage  of  a  river  between  perpen- 
dicular rocks  of  great  height,  which  frequently  approach  each  other 
so  closely  overhead  as  to  form  a  kind  of  tunnel  over  the  stream, 
which  foams  along  below,  half-choked  up  by  fallen  fragments.  Be- 
tween the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water  and  Goat  island,  there  is  prob- 
ably a  fall  of  three  hundred  feet,  and  that  was  principally  made  in 
the  caiions  before  us;  as  without  them,  the  water  was  comparatively 
smooth.  As  we  neared  the  ridge,  the  river  made  a  sudden  turn,  and 
swept  squarely  down  against  one  of  the  walls  of  the  caiion  with  a 
great  velocity  and  so  steep  a  descent,  that  it  had  to  the  eye  the  ap- 
pearance of  an  inclined  plane.  When  we  launched  into  this,  the  men 
jumped  overboard,  to  check  the  velocity  of  the  boat,  but  were  soon 
in  water  up  to  their  necks,  and  our  boat  ran  on;  but  we  succeeded  in 
bringing  her  to  a  small  point  of  rocks  on  the  right,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  caiion.  Here  was  a  kind  of  elevated  sand  beach,  not  many  yards 
square,  backed  by  the  rocks,  and  around  the  point  the  river  swept  at 


76.  The  confluence  of  the  Platte  and  the  Sweetwater  is  now  obscured  by 
the  waters  of  the  Pathfinder  Reservoir. 


275 


a  right  angle.  Trunks  of  trees  deposited  on  jutting  points  twenty  or 
thirty  feet  above,  and  other  marks,  showed  that  the  water  here  fre- 
quently rose  to  a  considerable  height.  The  ridge  was  of  the  same 
decomposing  granite  already  mentioned,  and  the  water  had  worked 
the  surface,  in  many  places,  into  a  wavy  surface  of  ridges  and  holes. 
We  ascended  the  rocks  to  reconnoitre  the  ground,  and  from  the  sum- 
mit the  passage  appeared  to  be  a  continued  cataract  foaming  over 
many  obstructions,  and  broken  by  a  number  of  small  falls.  We  saw 
nowhere  a  fall  answering  to  that  which  had  been  described  to  us  as 
having  twenty  or  twenty-five  feet,  but  still  concluded  this  to  be  the 
place  in  question,  as,  in  the  season  of  floods,  the  rush  of  the  river 
against  the  wall  would  produce  a  great  rise,  and  the  waters  reflected 
squarely  off,  would  descend  through  the  passage  in  a  sheet  of  foam, 
having  every  appearance  of  a  large  fall.  Eighteen  years  previous  to 
this  time,  as  I  have  subsequently  learned  from  himself,  Mr.  Fitzpat- 
rick,  somewhere  above  on  this  river,  had  embarked  with  a  valuable 
cargo  of  beaver.  Unacquainted  with  the  stream,  which  he  believed 
would  conduct  him  safely  to  the  Missouri,  he  came  unexpectedly 
into  this  caiion,  where  he  was  wrecked,  with  the  total  loss  of  his  furs. 
It  would  have  been  a  work  of  great  time  and  labor  to  pack  our  bag- 
gage across  the  ridge,  and  I  determined  to  run  the  canon.  We  all 
again  embarked,  and  at  first  attempted  to  check  the  way  of  the  boat ; 
but  the  water  swept  through  with  so  much  violence  that  we  nar- 
rowly escaped  being  swamped,  and  were  obliged  to  let  her  go  in  the 
full  force  of  the  current,  and  trust  to  the  skill  of  the  boatmen.  The 
dangerous  places  in  this  canon  were  where  huge  rocks  had  fallen 
from  above,  and  hemmed  in  the  already  narrow  pass  of  the  river  to 
an  open  space  of  three  or  four  and  five  feet.  These  obstructions  raised 
the  water  considerably  above,  which  was  sometimes  precipitated 
over  in  a  fall;  and  at  other  places,  where  this  dam  was  too  high, 
rushed  through  the  contracted  opening  with  tremendous  violence. 
Had  our  boat  been  made  of  wood,  in  passing  the  narrows  she  would 
have  been  staved ;  but  her  elasticity  preserved  her  unhurt  from  every 
shock,  and  she  seemed  fairly  to  leap  over  the  falls. 

In  this  way  we  passed  three  cataracts  in  succession,  where,  perhaps, 
a  hundred  feet  of  smooth  water  intervened ;  and  finally,  with  a  shout 
of  pleasure  at  our  success,  issued  from  our  tunnel  into  the  open  day 
beyond.  We  were  so  delighted  with  the  performance  of  our  boat,  and 
so  confident  in  her  powers,  that  we  would  not  have  hesitated  to  leap 
a  fall  of  ten  feet  with  her.  We  put  to  shore  for  breakfast  at  some  wil- 

276 


lows  on  the  right  bank,  immediately  below  the  mouth  of  the  canon; 
for  it  was  now  eight  o'clock,  and  we  had  been  working  since  day- 
light, and  were  all  wet,  fatigued,  and  hungry.  While  the  men  were 
preparing  breakfast,  I  went  out  to  reconnoitre.  The  view  was  very 
limited.  The  course  of  the  river  was  smooth,  so  far  as  I  could  see;  on 
both  sides  were  broken  hills;  and  but  a  mile  or  two  below  was  an- 
other high  ridge.  The  rock  at  the  mouth  of  the  canon  was  still  the 
decomposing  granite,  with  great  quantities  of  mica,  which  made  a 
very  glittering  sand. 

We  re-embarked  at  9  o'clock,  and  in  about  twenty  minutes  reached 
the  next  canon.  Landing  on  a  rocky  shore  at  its  commencement,  we 
ascended  the  ridge  to  reconnoitre.  Portage  was  out  of  the  question. 
So  far  as  we  could  see,  the  jagged  rocks  pointed  out  the  course  of  the 
caiion,  on  a  winding  line  of  seven  or  eight  miles.  It  was  simply  a 
narrow,  dark  chasm  in  the  rock;  and  here  the  perpendicular  faces 
were  much  higher  than  in  the  previous  pass,  being  at  this  end  two 
to  three  hundred,  and  further  down,  as  we  afterwards  ascertained, 
five  hundred  feet  in  vertical  height.  Our  previous  success  had  made 
us  bold,  and  we  determined  again  to  run  the  caiion.  Every  thing  was 
secured  as  firmly  as  possible;  and,  having  divested  ourselves  of  the 
greater  part  of  our  clothing,  we  pushed  into  the  stream.  To  save  our 
chronometer  from  accident,  Mr.  Preuss  took  it,  and  attempted  to 
proceed  along  the  shore  on  the  masses  of  rock,  which  in  places  were 
piled  up  on  either  side;  but,  after  he  had  walked  about  five  minutes, 
every  thing  like  shore  disappeared,  and  the  vertical  wall  came 
squarely  down  into  the  water.  He,  therefore,  waited  until  we  came 
up.  An  ugly  pass  lay  before  us.  We  had  made  fast  to  the  stern  of  the 
boat  a  strong  rope  about  fifty  feet  long;  and  three  of  the  men  clam- 
bered along  among  the  rocks,  and  with  this  rope  let  her  down  slowly 
through  the  pass.  In  several  places  high  rocks  lay  scattered  about  in 
the  channel;  and  in  the  narrows  it  required  all  our  strength  and  skill 
to  avoid  staving  the  boat  on  the  sharp  points.  In  one  of  these,  the 
boat  proved  a  little  too  broad,  and  stuck  fast  for  an  instant,  while  the 
water  flew  over  us;  fortunately  it  was  but  for  an  instant,  as  our 
united  strength  forced  her  immediately  through.  The  water  swept 
overboard  only  a  sextant  and  a  pair  of  saddle  bags.  I  caught  the  sex- 
tant as  it  passed  by  me;  but  the  saddlebags  became  the  prey  of  the 
whirlpools.  We  reached  the  place  where  Mr.  Preuss  was  standing, 
took  him  on  board,  and,  with  the  aid  of  the  boat,  put  the  men  with 
the  rope  on  the  succeeding  pile  of  rocks.  We  found  this  passage  much 

277 


worse  than  the  previous  one,  and  our  position  was  rather  a  bad  one. 
To  go  back  was  impossible;  before  us  the  cataract  was  a  sheet  of 
foam;  and,  shut  up  in  the  chasm  by  the  rocks,  which  in  some  places 
seemed  almost  to  meet  overhead,  the  roar  of  the  water  was  deafen- 
ing. We  pushed  off  again;  but,  after  making  a  little  distance,  the 
force  of  the  current  became  too  great  for  the  men  on  shore,  and  two 
of  them  let  go  the  rope.  Lajeunesse,  the  third  man,  hung  on,  and 
was  jerked  headforemost  into  the  river  from  a  rock  above  twelve 
feet  high;  and  down  the  boat  shot  like  an  arrow,  Basil  following  us 
in  the  rapid  current,  and  exerting  all  his  strength  to  keep  in  mid 
channel — his  head  only  seen  occasionally  like  a  black  spot  in  the 
white  foam.  How  far  we  went  I  do  not  exactly  know;  but  we  suc- 
ceeded in  turning  the  boat  into  an  eddy  below.  "  'Cre  Dieu,"  said 
Basil  Lajeunesse,  as  he  arrived  immediately  after  us,  "J^  crois  bien 
que  j'ai  nage  un  demi  mile."  He  had  owed  his  life  to  his  skill  as  a 
swimmer;  and  I  determined  to  take  him  and  the  two  others  on 
board,  and  trust  to  skill  and  fortune  to  reach  the  other  end  in  safety. 
We  placed  ourselves  on  our  knees,  with  the  short  paddles  in  our 
hands,  the  most  skilful  boatman  being  at  the  bow;  and  again  we 
commenced  our  rapid  descent.  We  cleared  rock  after  rock,  and  shot 
past  fall  after  fall,  our  little  boat  seeming  to  play  with  the  cataract. 
We  became  flushed  with  success  and  familiar  with  the  danger;  and, 
yielding  to  the  excitement  of  the  occasion,  broke  forth  together  into 
a  Canadian  boat  song.  Singing,  or  rather  shouting,  we  dashed  along; 
and  were,  I  believe,  in  the  midst  of  the  chorus,  when  the  boat  struck 
a  concealed  rock  immediately  at  the  foot  of  a  fall,  which  whirled  her 
over  in  an  instant.  Three  of  my  men  could  not  swim,  and  my  first 
feeling  was  to  assist  them,  and  save  some  of  our  effects;  but  a  sharp 
concussion  or  two  convinced  me  that  I  had  not  yet  saved  myself. 
A  few  strokes  brought  me  to  an  eddy,  and  I  landed  on  a  pile  of 
rocks  on  the  left  side.  Looking  around,  I  saw  that  Mr.  Preuss  had 
gained  the  shore  on  the  same  side,  about  twenty  yards  below;  and  a 
little  climbing  and  swimming  soon  brought  him  to  my  side.  On  the 
opposite  side  against  the  wall,  lay  the  boat  bottom  up;  and  Lambert 
was  in  the  act  of  saving  Descoteaux,  whom  he  had  grasped  by  the 
hair,  and  who  could  not  swim ;  "Lache  pas,"  said  he,  as  I  afterward 
learned,  "lache  pas,  cher  frere."  "Grains  pas,"  was  the  reply,  "Je 
m'en  vais  mourir  avant  que  de  te  lacher."  Such  was  the  reply  of 
courage  and  generosity  in  this  danger.  For  a  hundred  yards  below, 
the  current  was  covered  with  floating  books  and  boxes,  bales  of 


278 


blankets,  and  scattered  articles  of  clothing;  and  so  strong  and  boil- 
ing was  the  stream,  that  even  our  heavy  instruments,  which  were  all 
in  cases,  kept  on  the  surface,  and  the  sextant,  circle,  and  the  long 
black  box  of  the  telescope,  were  in  view  at  once.  For  a  moment,  I  felt 
somewhat  disheartened.  All  our  books;  almost  every  record  of  the 
journey — our  journals  and  registers  of  astronomical  and  barometri- 
cal observations — had  been  lost  in  a  moment.  But  it  was  no  time  to 
indulge  in  regrets;  and  I  immediately  set  about  endeavoring  to  save 
something  from  the  wreck.  Making  ourselves  understood  as  well  as 
possible  by  signs,  for  nothing  could  be  heard  in  the  roar  of  waters, 
we  commenced  our  operations.  Of  every  thing  on  board,  the  only 
article  that  had  been  saved  was  my  double-barrelled  gun,  which 
Descoteaux  had  caught,  and  clung  to  with  drowning  tenacity.  The 
men  continued  down  the  river  on  the  left  bank.  Mr.  Preuss  and  my- 
self descended  on  the  side  we  were  on;  and  Lajeunesse,  with  a  pad- 
dle in  his  hand,  jumped  on  the  boat  alone,  and  continued  down  the 
canon.  She  was  now  light,  and  cleared  every  bad  place  with  much 
less  difficulty.  In  a  short  time,  he  was  joined  by  Lambert;  and  the 
search  was  continued  for  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  which  was  as  far 
as  the  boat  could  proceed  in  the  pass. 

Here  the  walls  were  about  five  hundred  feet  high,  and  the  frag- 
ments of  rocks  from  above  had  choked  the  river  into  a  hollow  pass, 
but  one  or  two  feet  above  the  surface.  Through  this  and  the  inter- 
stices of  the  rock,  the  water  found  its  way.  Favored  beyond  our  ex- 
pectations, all  of  our  registers  had  been  recovered,  with  the  exception 
of  my  journals,  which  contained  the  notes  and  incidents  of  travel, 
and  topographical  descriptions,  a  number  of  scattered  astronomical 
observations,  principally  meridian  altitudes  of  the  sun,  and  our 
barometrical  register  west  of  Laramie.  Fortunately,  our  other  jour- 
nals contained  duplicates  of  the  most  important  barometrical  ob- 
servations which  had  been  taken  in  the  mountains.  These,  with  a 
few  scattered  notes,  were  all  that  had  been  preserved  of  our  meteor- 
ological observations.  In  addition  to  these,  we  saved  the  circle;  and 
these,  with  a  few  blankets,  constituted  every  thing  that  had  been 
rescued  from  the  waters. 

The  day  was  running  rapidly  away,  and  it  was  necessary  to  reach 
Goat  island,  whither  the  party  had  preceded  us  before  night.  In 
this  uncertain  country,  the  traveller  is  so  much  in  the  power  of 
chance,  that  we  became  somewhat  uneasy  in  regard  to  them.  Should 
anything  have  occurred,  in  the  brief  interval  of  our  separation,  to 

279 


prevent  our  rejoining  them,  our  situation  would  be  rather  a  desperate 
one.  We  had  not  a  morsel  of  provisions,  our  arms  and  ammunition 
were  gone;  and  we  were  entirely  at  the  mercy  of  any  straggling 
party  of  savages,  and  not  a  little  in  danger  of  starvation.  We  there- 
fore set  out  at  once  in  two  parties.  Mr.  Preuss  and  myself  on  the  left, 
and  the  men  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  Climbing  out  of  the 
caiion,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  very  broken  country,  where  we  were 
not  yet  able  to  recognize  any  locality.  In  the  course  of  our  descent 
through  the  canon,  the  rock,  which  at  the  upper  end  was  of  the  de- 
composing granite,  changed  into  a  varied  sandstone  formation.  The 
hills  and  points  of  the  ridges  were  covered  with  fragments  of  a  yel- 
low sandstone,  of  which  the  strata  were  sometimes  displayed  in  the 
broken  ravines  which  interrupted  our  course,  and  made  our  walk 
extremely  fatiguing.  At  one  point  of  the  caiion,  the  red  argillaceous 
sandstone  rose  in  a  wall  of  five  hundred  feet,  surmounted  by  a 
stratum  of  white  sandstone,  and  in  an  opposite  ravine  a  column  of 
red  sandstone  rose  in  form  like  a  steeple,  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  high.  The  scenery  was  extremely  picturesque,  and  not- 
withstanding our  forlorn  condition,  we  were  frequently  obliged  to 
stop  and  admire  it.  Our  progress  was  not  very  rapid.  We  had 
emerged  from  the  water  half  naked,  and  on  arriving  at  the  top  of 
the  precipice,  I  found  myself  with  only  one  moccasin.  The  fragments 
of  rock  made  walking  painful,  and  I  was  frequently  obliged  to  stop 
and  pull  out  the  thorns  of  the  cactus,  here  the  prevailing  plant,  and 
with  which  a  few  minutes'  walk  covered  the  bottom  of  my  feet. 
From  this  ridge  the  river  emerged  into  a  smiling  prairie,  and  de- 
scending to  the  bank  for  water,  we  were  joined  by  Benoist.  The  rest 
of  the  party  were  out  of  sight,  having  taken  a  more  inland  route.  We 
crossed  the  river  repeatedly,  sometimes  able  to  ford  it,  and  some- 
times swimming;  climbed  over  the  ridges  of  two  more  canons,  and 
towards  evening  reached  the  cut,  which  we  here  named  the  Hot 
Spring  Gate.  On  our  previous  visit  in  July  we  had  not  entered  this 
pass,  reserving  it  for  our  descent  in  the  boat;  and  when  we  entered 
it  this  evening,  Mr.  Preuss  was  a  few  hundred  feet  in  advance. 
Heated  with  the  long  march,  he  came  suddenly  upon  a  fine  bold 
spring,  gushing  from  the  rock,  about  ten  feet  above  the  river.  Eager 
to  enjoy  the  crystal  water,  he  threw  himself  down  for  a  hasty 
draught,  and  took  a  mouthful  of  water  almost  boiling  hot.  He  said 
nothing  to  Benoist,  who  laid  himself  down  to  drink,  but  the  steam 
from   the  water  arrested   his  eagerness,  and  he   escaped   the   hot 

280 


draught.  We  had  no  thermometer  to  ascertain  the  temperature,  but 
I  could  hold  my  hand  in  the  water  just  long  enough  to  count  two 
seconds."^  There  are  eight  or  ten  of  these  springs,  discharging  them- 
selves by  streams  large  enough  to  be  called  runs.  A  loud  hollow 
noise  was  heard  from  the  rock,  which  I  supposed  to  be  produced 
by  the  fall  of  the  water.  The  strata  immediately  where  they  issue 
is  a  fine  white  and  calcareous  sandstone,  covered  with  an  incrusta- 
tion of  common  salt.  Leaving  this  Thermopylae  of  the  West,  in  a 
short  walk,  we  reached  the  red  ridge  which  has  been  described  as 
lying  just  above  Goat  island.  Ascending  this  we  found  some  fresh 
tracks  and  a  button  which  showed  that  the  other  men  had  already 
arrived.  A  shout  from  the  man  who  first  reached  the  top  of  the 
ridge,  responded  to  from  below,  informed  us  that  our  friends  were 
all  on  the  island,  and  we  were  soon  among  them.  We  found  some 
pieces  of  buffalo  standing  around  the  fire  for  us,  and  managed  to  get 
some  dry  clothes  among  the  people.  A  sudden  storm  of  rain  drove 
us  into  the  best  shelter  we  could  find,  where  we  slept  soundly,  after 
one  of  the  most  fatiguing  days  I  have  ever  experienced. 

August  25. — Early  this  morning  Lajeunesse  was  sent  to  the 
wreck  for  the  articles  which  had  been  saved,  and  about  noon  we 
left  the  island.  The  mare  which  we  had  left  here  in  July  had  much 
improved  in  condition,  and  she  served  us  well  again  for  some  time, 
but  was  finally  abandoned  at  a  subsequent  part  of  the  journey.  At 
10  in  the  morning  of  the  26th  we  reached  Cache  camp,  where  we 
found  every  thing  undisturbed.  We  disinterred  our  deposit,  arranged 
our  carts  which  had  been  left  here  on  the  way  out,  and  travelling  a 
few  miles  in  the  afternoon,  encamped  for  the  night  at  the  ford  of 
the  Platte. 

August  27. — At  midday  we  halted  at  the  place  where  we  had 
taken  dinner  on  the  27th  of  July.  The  country,  which  when  we 
passed  up  looked  as  if  the  hard  winter  frosts  had  passed  over  it, 
had  now  assumed  a  new  face,  so  much  of  vernal  freshness  had  been 
given  to  it  by  the  late  rains.  The  Platte  was  exceedingly  low,  a  mere 
line  of  water  among  the  sand  bars.  We  reached  Laramie  fort  on  the 


77.  "About  one  mile  above  Goat  Island  I  found  a  hot  spring  under  the 
rocks  through  which  the  Platte  breaks  its  course.  When  I  noticed  it,  I  was 
pleased  at  the  chance  of  enjoying  a  clear  cold  drink;  the  water  of  the  Platte 
is  always  turbid.  But  how  quickly  did  I  withdraw  my  mouth!  I  did  not  tell 
Benoit,  who  followed  me;  why  should  he  not  burn  his  lips  a   little,  too?" 

(PREUSS,  57). 

281 


last  day  of  August,  after  an  absence  of  forty-two  days,  and  had  the 
pleasure  to  find  our  friends  all  well.  The  fortieth  day  had  been 
fixed  for  our  return,  and  the  quick  eyes  of  the  Indians,  who  were 
on  the  lookout  for  us,  discovered  our  flag  as  we  wound  among  the 
hills.  The  fort  saluted  us  with  repeated  discharges  of  its  single  piece, 
which  we  returned  with  scattered  volleys  of  our  small  arms,  and  felt 
the  joy  of  a  home  reception  in  getting  back  to  this  remote  station, 
which  seemed  so  far  ofiF  as  we  went  out. 

On  the  morning  of  the  3d  of  September  we  bade  adieu  to  our 
kind  friends  at  the  fort,  and  continued  our  homeward  journey  down 
the  Platte,  which  was  glorious  with  the  autumnal  splendor  of  in- 
numerable flowers  in  full  and  brilliant  bloom.  On  the  warm  sands, 
among  the  helianthi  [sunflower],  one  of  the  characteristic  plants, 
we  saw  great  numbers  of  rattlesnakes,  of  which  five  or  six  were 
killed  in  the  morning's  ride.  We  occupied  ourselves  in  improving 
our  previous  survey  of  the  river;  and,  as  the  weather  was  fine, 
astronomical  observations  were  generally  made  at  night  and  at  noon. 

We  halted  for  a  short  time  in  the  afternoon  of  the  5th  with  a  vil- 
lage of  Sioux  Indians,  some  of  whose  chiefs  we  had  met  at  Laramie. 
The  water  in  the  Platte  was  extremely  low,  in  many  places  the 
large  expanse  of  sands,  with  some  occasional  stunted  trees  on  the 
banks,  gave  it  the  air  of  the  seacoast,  the  bed  of  the  river  being 
merely  a  succession  of  sandbars,  among  which  the  channel  was 
divided  into  rivulets  a  few  inches  deep.''^  We  crossed  and  recrossed 
with  our  carts  repeatedly  and  at  our  pleasure,  and  whenever  an 
obstruction  barred  our  way,  in  the  shape  of  precipitous  bluffs  that 
came  down  upon  the  river,  we  turned  directly  into  it,  and  made  our 
way  along  the  sandy  bed,  with  no  other  inconvenience  than  the  fre- 
quent quicksands,  which  greatly  fatigued  our  animals.  Disinterring 
on  the  way  the  cache  which  had  been  made  by  our  party  when  they 


78.  During  this  dull  retracing  of  the  outward  trail,  Preuss  made  an  assess- 
ment of  their  trip:  "What  has  he  really  done.  ...  He  has  established  some 
latitudes  and  two  longitudes — that  is  all.  Collecting  plants  and  minerals  is 
good  and  praiseworthy,  but  it  is  not  part  of  the  commission.  If  he  had  re- 
turned south  via  the  Arkansas,  or  north  via  the  [Big]  Horn  and  the  Yellow- 
stone, we  could  make  an  entirely  different  map.  .  .  .  He  cannot  quite 
manage  the  sextant  which  is  left  .  .  ."  (preuss,  65).  But  after  he  reaches 
Grand  Island,  JCF  will  be  covering  new  ground,  at  least  for  him,  and  prob- 
ably doing  as  much  justice  to  his  commission  as  if  he  were  striking  out  into 
other  territory.  He  is  also  laboring  within  a  time  schedule  which  Preuss  does 
not  fully  understand. 

282 


ascended  the  river,  we  reached  without  accident,  on  the  evening  of 
the  12th  of  September,  our  old  encampment  of  the  2d  of  July,  at 
the  junction  of  the  forks.  Our  cache  of  the  barrel  of  pork  was 
found  undisturbed,  and  proved  a  seasonable  addition  to  our  stock  of 
provisions.  At  this  place  I  had  determined  to  make  another  attempt 
to  descend  the  Platte  by  water,  and  accordingly  spent  two  days  in 
the  construction  of  a  bull  boat.  Men  were  sent  out  on  the  evening 
of  our  arrival,  the  necessary  number  of  bulls  killed,  and  their  skins 
brought  to  the  camp.  Four  of  the  best  of  them  were  strongly  sewed 
together  with  buffalo  sinew,  and  stretched  over  a  basket  frame  of 
willow.  The  seams  were  then  covered  with  ashes  and  tallow,  and 
the  boat  left  exposed  to  the  sun  for  the  greater  part  of  one  day, 
which  was  sufficient  to  dry  and  contract  the  skin,  and  make  the 
whole  work  solid  and  strong.  It  had  a  rounded  bow,  was  eight  feet 
long  and  five  broad,  and  drew  with  four  men  about  four  inches 
water.  On  the  morning  of  the  15th  we  embarked  in  our  hide  boat, 
Mr.  Preuss  and  myself,  with  two  men.  We  dragged  her  over  the 
sands  for  three  or  four  miles,  and  then  left  her  on  a  bar,  and  aban- 
doned entirely  all  further  attempts  to  navigate  this  river.  The  names 
given  by  the  Indians  are  always  remarkably  appropriate;  and  cer- 
tainly none  was  ever  more  so  than  that  which  they  have  given  to  this 
stream,  "the  Nebraska,  or  Shallow  river."  Walking  steadily  the  re- 
mainder of  the  day,  a  little  before  dark  we  overtook  our  people  at 
their  evening  camp,  about  twenty-one  miles  below  the  junction. 
The  next  morning  we  crossed  the  Platte,  and  continued  our  way 
down  the  river  bottom  on  the  left  bank,  where  we  found  an  ex- 
cellent, plainly  beaten  road. 

On  the  18th  we  reached  Grand  island,  which  is  fifty-two  miles 
long,  with  an  average  breadth  of  one  mile  and  three  quarters.  It  has 
on  it  some  small  eminences,  and  is  sufficiently  elevated  to  be  secure 
from  the  annual  floods  of  the  river.  As  has  been  already  remarked, 
it  is  well  timbered,  with  an  excellent  soil,  and  recommends  itself 
to  notice  as  the  best  point  for  a  military  position  on  the  Lower 
Platte. 

On  the  22d  we  arrived  at  the  village  of  the  Grand  Pawnees,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  river,  about  thirty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Loup  fork.  They  were  gathering  in  their  corn,  and  we  obtained 
from  them  a  very  welcome  supply  of  vegetables. 

The  morning  of  the  24th  we  reached  the  Loup  fork  of  the  Platte. 
At  the  place  where  we  forded  it,  this  stream  was  four  hundred  and 

283 


thirty  yards  broad,  with  a  swift  current  of  clear  water,  in  this  re- 
spect differing  from  the  Platte,  which  has  a  yellow  muddy  color, 
derived  from  the  limestone  and  marl  formatiofi,  of  which  we  have 
previously  spoken.  The  ford  was  difficult,  as  the  water  was  so  deep 
that  it  came  into  the  body  of  the  carts,  and  we  reached  the  opposite 
bank  after  repeated  attempts,  ascending  and  descending  the  bed  of 
the  river  in  order  to  avail  ourselves  of  the  bars.  We  encamped  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  fork,  in  the  point  of  land  at  its  junction  with  the 
Platte.  During  the  two  days  that  we  remained  here  for  astronomical 
observations,  the  bad  weather  permitted  us  to  obtain  but  one  good 
observation  for  the  latitude,  a  meridian  latitude  of  the  sun,  which 
gave  for  the  latitude  of  the  mouth  of  the  Loup  fork,  41°  22'  U". 

Five  or  six  days  previously,  I  had  sent  forward  C.  Lambert, 
with  two  men,  to  Bellevue,  with  directions  to  ask  from  Mr.  P. 
Sarpy,  the  gentleman  in  charge  of  the  American  Company's  estab- 
lishment at  that  place,  the  aid  of  his  carpenters  in  constructing  a 
boat,  in  which  I  proposed  to  descend  the  Missouri.  On  the  afternoon 
of  the  27th  we  met  one  of  the  men,'^  who  had  been  despatched  by 
Mr.  Sarpy  with  a  welcome  supply  of  provisions  and  a  very  kind 
note,  which  gave  us  the  very  gratifying  intelligence  that  our  boat 
was  in  rapid  progress.  On  the  evening  of  the  30th  we  encamped  in 
an  almost  impenetrable  undergrowth  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Platte, 
in  the  point  of  land  at  its  confluence  with  the  Missouri,  three  hun- 
dred and  fifteen  miles,  according  to  our  reckoning,  from  the  junc- 
tion of  the  forks,  and  five  hundred  and  twenty  from  Fort  Laramie.^*^ 
From  the  junction  we  had  found  the  bed  of  the  Platte  occupied 
with  numerous  islands,  many  of  them  very  large,  and  all  well  tim- 
bered; possessing,  as  well  as  the  bottom  lands  of  the  river,  a  very 
excellent  soil.  With  the  exception  of  some  scattered  groves  on  the 
banks,  the  bottoms  are  generally  without  timber.  A  portion  of  these 
consist  of  low  grounds,  covered  with  a  profusion  of  fine  grasses,  and 
are  probably  inundated  in  the  spring;  the  remaining  part  is  high 
river  prairie,  entirely  beyond  the  influence  of  the  floods.  The 
breadth  of  the  river  is  usually  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  except  where 
it  is  enlarged  by  islands.  That  portion  of  its  course  which  is  occu- 
pied by  Grand  island  has  an  average  breadth,  from  shore  to  shore, 


79.  Menard,  according  to  preuss,  75. 

80.  JCF  is  now  at  the  future  site  of  Plattsmouth,  Nebr.,  and  the  cowbells 
he  will  hear  tomorrow  morning  will  be  sounding  from  setdements  in  what  is 
now  Mills  County,  Iowa. 

284 


of  two  and  a  half  miles.  The  breadth  of  the  valley,  with  the  various 
accidents  of  ground — springs,  timber,  and  whatever  I  have  thought 
interesting  to  travellers  and  settlers — you  will  find  indicated  on  the 
larger  map  which  accompanies  this  report.^^ 

October  1. — I  rose  this  morning  long  before  daylight,  and  heard 
with  a  feeling  of  pleasure  the  tinkling  of  cow  bells  at  the  settlements 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Missouri.  Early  in  the  day  we  reached 
Mr.  Sarpy's  residence;  and,  in  the  security  and  comfort  of  his  hos- 
pitable mansion,  felt  the  pleasure  of  being  again  within  the  pale 
of  civilization.  We  found  our  boat  on  the  stocks;  a  few  days  sufficed 
to  complete  her;  and,  in  the  afternoon  of  the  4th,  we  embarked  on 
the  Missouri.  All  our  equipage,  horses,  carts,  and  the  materiel 
of  the  camp,  had  been  sold  at  public  auction  at  Bellevue.  The 
strength  of  my  party  enabled  me  to  man  the  boat  with  ten  oars,  re- 
lieved every  hour;  and  we  descended  rapidly.  Early  on  the  morning 
of  the  10th,  we  halted  to  make  some  astronomical  observations  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Kanzas,  exactly  four  months  since  we  had  left  the 
trading  post  of  Mr.  Cyprian  Chouteau,  on  the  same  river,  ten  miles 
above.  On  our  descent  to  this  place,  we  had  employed  ourselves  in 
surveying  and  sketching  the  Missouri,  making  astronomical  observa- 
tions regularly  at  night  and  at  midday,  whenever  the  weather  per- 
mitted. These  operations  on  the  river  were  continued  until  our 
arrival  at  the  city  of  St.  Louis,  Missouri,  on  the  17th;  and  will  be 
found,  imbodied  with  other  results,  on  the  map^"  and  in  the 
appendices  which  accompany  this  report.  At  St.  Louis,  the  sale  of 
our  remaining  effects  was  made;  and,  leaving  that  city  by  steam- 
boat on  the  18th,  I  had  the  honor  to  report  to  you  at  the  city  of 
Washington  on  the  29th  of  October. 

Very  respectfully,  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

}.  C.  Fremont, 
2d  Lieut.  Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers. 


81.  See  Map  2  (Map  Portfolio). 

82.  Ibid. 


285 


CATALOGUE  OF  PLANTS  COLLECTED 

BY  LIEUTENANT  FREMONT  IN  HIS  EXPEDITION 

TO  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 

BY  JOHN  TORREY. 

PREFACE.^ 

The  collection  of  plants  submitted  to  me  for  examination,  though 
made  under  unfavorable  circumstances,  is  a  very  interesting  con- 
tribution to  North  American  Botany.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Kan- 
zas  river  to  the  "Red  Buttes"  on  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte,  the 
transportation  was  effected  in  carts;  but  from  that  place  to  and  from 
the  mountains,  the  explorations  were  made  on  horseback,  and  by 
such  rapid  movements,  (which  were  necessary,  in  order  to  ac- 
complish the  objects  of  the  expedition)  that  but  litde  opportunity 
was  af][orded  for  collecting  and  drying  botanical  specimens.  Be- 
sides, the  party  was  in  a  savage  and  inhospitable  country,  sometimes 
annoyed  by  Indians,  and  frequently  in  great  distress  from  want  of 
provisions;  from  which  circumstances,  and  the  many  pressing  duties 
that  constantly  engaged  the  attention  of  the  commander,  he  was 
not  able  to  make  so  large  a  collection  as  he  desired.  To  give  some 
general  idea  of  the  country  explored  by  Lieut.  Fremont,  I  recapitu- 
late, from  his  report,  a  brief  sketch  of  his  route.  The  expedition  left 
the  mouth  of  the  Kanzas  on  the  10th  of  June,  1842,  and  proceeding 
up  that  river  about  one  hundred  miles,  then  continued  its  course 
generally  along  the  "bottoms"  of  the  Kanzas  tributaries,  but  some- 
times passing  over  the  upper  prairies.  The  soil  of  the  river  bottoms 
is  always  rich,  and  generally  well  timbered;  though  the  whole  re- 
gion is  what  is  called  a  prairie  country.  The  upper  prairies  are  an 
immense  deposite  of  sand  and  gravel,  covered  with  a  good,  and,  very 
generally,  a  rich  soil.  Along  the  road,  on  reaching  the  little  stream 
called  Sandy  creek   (a  tributary  of  the  Kanzas),  the  soil  became 


83.  Torrey's  catalogue  is  printed  verbatim,  after  his  preface,  using  his  own 
binomials  and  common  names.  For  modern  binomials  and,  usually,  com- 
mon names,  consult  the  index  under  each  species. 


286 


more  sandy.  The  rock-formations  of  this  region  are  hmestone  and 
sandstone.  The  Amorpha  canescens  was  the  characteristic  plant;  it 
being  in  many  places  as  abundant  as  the  grass. 

Crossing  over  from  the  waters  of  the  Kanzas,  Lieut.  F.  arrived  at 
the  Great  Platte,  two  hundred  and  ten  miles  from  its  junction  with 
the  Missouri.  The  valley  of  this  river,  from  its  mouth  to  the  great 
forks,  is  about  four  miles  broad,  and  three  hundred  and  fifteen  miles 
long.  It  is  rich,  well-timbered,  and  covered  with  luxuriant  grasses. 
The  purple  Liatris  scariosa,  and  several  Asters,  were  here  conspicu- 
ous features  of  the  vegetation.  I  was  pleased  to  recognise  among  the 
specimens  collected  near  the  forks,  the  fine  large-flowered  Asclepias, 
that  I  described  many  years  ago  in  my  account  of  James's  Rocky 
Mountain  plants,  under  the  name  of  A.  speciosa,  and  which  Mr. 
Geyer  also  found  in  Nicollet's  expedition.  It  seems  to  be  the  plant 
subsequently  described  and  figured  by  Sir  W.  Hooker,  under  the  name 
of  A.  DoHglasii.  On  the  Lower  Platte,  and  all  the  way  to  the  Sweet 
Water,  the  showy  Cleome  integrijolia  occurred  in  abundance.  From 
the  Forks  to  Laramie  river,  a  distance  of  about  two  hundred  miles, 
the  country  may  be  called  a  sandy  one.  The  valley  of  the  North 
fork  is  without  timber;  but  the  grasses  are  fine,  and  the  herbaceous 
plants  abundant.  On  the  return  of  the  expedition  in  September, 
Lieut.  Fremont  says  the  whole  country  resembled  a  vast  garden; 
but  the  prevailing  plants  were  two  or  three  species  of  Heliajithus 
(sunflower).  Between  the  main  forks  of  the  Platte,  from  the  junc- 
tion, as  high  up  as  Laramie's  fork,  the  formation  consisted  of  marl, 
a  soft  earthv  limestone,  and  a  granite  sandstone.  At  the  latter  place, 
that  singular  leguminous  plant,  the  Ketitrophyta  motitana  of  Nut- 
tall  was  first  seen,  and  then  occurred,  at  intervals,  to  the  Sweet  Water 
river.  Following  up  the  North  fork,  Lieut.  Fremont  arrived  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water  river,  one  of  the  head  waters  of  the 
Platte.  Above  Laramie's  fork  to  this  place,  the  soil  is  generally  sandy. 
The  rocks  consist  of  limestone,  with  a  variety  of  sandstones  (yellow, 
gray,  and  red  argillaceous),  with  compact  gypsum  or  alabaster,  and 
fine  conglomerates. 

The  route  along  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte  afforded  some  of 
the  best  plants  in  the  collection.  The  Seneclo  rapifolia,  Nutt.,  oc- 
curred in  many  places,  quite  to  the  Sweet  Water;  Lippia  (Zapania) 
cufieijoUa  (Torr.  in  James's  plants,  only  known  before  from  Dr. 
[Edwin]  James's  collection;)  Cercocarpus  parvifolius,  Nutt.;  Erio- 


287 


gonum  parvifolium  and  cocspitosum,  Nutt.;  Shepherdia  argentea, 
Nutt.,  and  Geranium  Vremontiif'^  a  new  species  (near  the  Red 
Buttes),  were  found  in  this  part  of  the  journey.  In  saHne  soils,  on  the 
Upper  Platte,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water,  were  collected 
several  interesting  chenopodiace^,  one  of  which  was  first  discovered 
by  Dr.  James,  in  Long's  Expedition;  and  although  it  was  considered 
as  a  new  genus,  I  did  not  describe  it,  owing  to  the  want  of  the  ripe 
fruit.  It  is  the  plant  doubtfully  referred  by  Hooker,  in  his  Flora 
Boreali  Americana,  to  Batis.  He  had  seen  the  male  flowers  only.  As 
it  is  certainly  a  new  genus,  I  have  dedicated  it  to  the  excellent  com- 
mander of  the  expedition,  as  a  well-merited  compliment  for  the  ser- 
vices he  has  rendered  North  American  botany. 

The  Sweet  Water  valley  is  a  sandy  plain,  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  long,  and  generally  about  five  miles  broad;  bounded 
by  ranges  of  granitic  mountains,  between  which,  the  valley  forma- 
tion consists,  near  the  Devil's  gate,  of  a  grayish  micaceous  sand- 
stone, with  marl  and  white  clay.  At  the  encampment  of  August 
5th-6th,  there  occurred  a  fine  white  argillaceous  sandstone,  a  coarse 
sandstone  or  puddingstone,  and  a  white  calcareous  sandstone.  A  few 
miles  to  the  west  of  that  position,  Lieut.  F.  reached  a  point  where 
the  sandstone  rested  immediately  upon  the  granite,  which  thence- 
forward, along  his  line  of  route,  alternated  with  a  compact  mica 
slate. 

Along  the  Sweet  Water,  many  interesting  plants  were  collected,  as 
may  be  seen  by  an  examination  of  the  catalogue ;  I  would,  however, 
mention  the  curious  (Enothera  Nuttallii,  Torr.  and  Gr.;  Eurotia 
lanata,  Mocq.  (Diotis  lanata,  Pursh),  which  seems  to  be  distinct 
from  E.  ceratoides;  Thermopsis  montana,  Nutt.;  Gilia  pulchella, 
Dougl.;  Senecio  spartioides,  Torr.  and  Gr.;  a  new  species,  and  four 
or  five  species  of  wild  currants  {Ribes  irriguum,  Dougl.,  &c.)  Near 
the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water  was  found  the  Planiago  eriophora, 


84.  Geranium  jremontii  as  published  by  Torrey  was  a  nomen  nudum,  and 
thus  illegitimate  by  International  Rules  of  Botanical  Nomenclature.  When  the 
name  was  validated  by  Asa  Gray  in  Memoirs  of  the  American  Academy,  ser. 
2,  4  (1849):26,  a  Fremont  collection  numbered  "42"  was  cited  without  local- 
ity. G.  N.  and  F.  F.  Jones  {Rhodora,  45  [1943]:44)  suggested  when  reviewing 
the  genus  that  the  Fremont  specimen  came  from  "probably  farther  north  and 
west"  of  Lieut.  J.  W.  Abert's  collection,  also  cited  by  Gray,  taken  in  the 
Raton  Mountains,  New  Mexico,  7  Aug.  1846.  However,  this  report  (p.  292) 
gives  the  "Black  Hills"  as  the  source  of  Fremont's  collection  and  so  there  may 
have  been  a  second  numbered  specimen  sent  to  Gray. 

288 


Torr.,  a  species  first  described  in  my  Dr.  James's  Rocky  Mountain 
Plants.  On  the  upper  part,  and  near  the  dividing  ridge,  were  col- 
lected several  species  of  Castilleja;  Fentstemon  micrantha,  Nutt.; 
several  Gentians;  the  pretty  little  Androsace  occidentalis,  Nutt.; 
SoUdago  incana,  Torr.  and  Gr.;  and  two  species  of  Eriogonum,  one 
of  which  was  new. 

On  the  8th  of  August,  the  exploring  party  crossed  the  dividing 
ridge  or  pass,  and  found  the  soil  of  the  plains  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  on  the  western  side,  to  be  sandy.  From  Laramie's  fork 
to  this  point,  different  species  of  artemisia  were  the  prevailing  and 
characteristic  plants;  occupying  the  place  of  the  grasses,  and  filling 
the  air  with  the  odor  of  camphor  and  turpentine.  Along  Little 
Sandy,  a  tributary  of  the  Colorado  of  the  West,  were  collected  a  new 
species  of  Fhaca  (P.  digitata),  and  Parnassia  fimbriata. 

On  the  morning  of  the  10th  of  August,  they  entered  the  defiles 
of  the  Wind  River  mountains,  a  spur  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  or 
Northern  Andes,  and  among  which  they  spent  about  eight  days.  On 
the  borders  of  a  lake,  embosomed  in  one  of  the  defiles,  were  collected 
Sedum  Rhodiola,  DC.  (which  had  been  found  before,  south  of 
Kotzebue's  sound,  only  by  Dr.  James) ;  Senecio  hydrophilus,  Nutt.; 
Vaccinium  uliginosum;  Betula  glandulosa,  and  B.  occidentalis, 
Hook.;  Eleagnus  argentea,  and  Shepherdia  Canadensis.  Some  of  the 
higher  peaks  of  the  Wind  River  mountains  rise  1,000  feet  above  the 
limits  of  perpetual  snow.  Lieut.  Fremont,  attended  by  four  of  his 
men,  ascended  one  of  the  loftiest  peaks  on  the  15th  of  August.  On 
this  he  found  the  snow  line  12,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
The  vegetation  of  the  mountains  is  truly  Alpine,  embracing  a  con- 
siderable number  of  species  common  to  both  hemispheres,  as  well  as 
some  that  are  peculiar  to  North  America.  Of  the  former,  Lieut.  Fre- 
mont collected  Phleum  alpinum;  Oxyria  reniformis;  Veronica 
alpina;  several  species  of  Salix;  Carex  atrata;  C.  panicea;  and,  im- 
mediately below  the  line  of  perpetual  congelation,  Silene  acaulis  and 
Polemonium  coeruleum,  (^  Hook.  Among  the  alpine  plants  peculiar 
to  the  western  hemisphere,  there  were  found  Oreophila  myrtifolia, 
Nutt.;  Aquilegia  cocrtdea,  Torr.;  Pedictdaris  surrecta,  Benth.;  Pul- 
monaria  ciliata,  James;  Silene  Drummondii,  Hook.;  Menziesia 
empetrijormis,  Potentilla  gracilis,  Dougl.;  several  species  of  Pinus; 
Frasera  speciosa.  Hook.;  Dodecatheofi  dentatum,  Hook.;  Phlox 
muscoides,  Nutt.;  Senecio  Fremontii,  n.  sp.,  Torr.  and  Gr.;  four  or 
five  Asters,  and  Vaccinium  myrtilloides,  Mx.;  the  last  seven  or  eight 

289 


very  near  the  snow  line.  Lower  down  the  mountain  were  found 
Arnica  angustifolia,  Vahl;  Senecio  triangularis,  Hook.;  S.  subnudus, 
DC;  Macrorhynchus  troximoides,  Torr.  and  Gr.;  Helianthella  uni- 
flora,  Torr.  and  Gr.;  and  Linosyris  viscidiflora,  Hook. 

The  expedition  left  the  Wind  River  mountains  about  the  18th  of 
August,  returning  by  the  same  route  as  that  by  which  it  ascended, 
except  that  it  continued  its  course  through  the  whole  length  of  the 
Lower  Platte,  arriving  at  its  junction  with  the  Missouri  on  the  1st 
of  October. 

As  the  plants  of  Lieut.  Fremont  were  under  examination  while 
the  last  part  of  the  Flora  of  North  America  was  in  the  press,  nearly 
all  the  new  matter  relating  to  the  Compositae  was  inserted  in  that 
work.  Descriptions  of  a  few  of  the  new  species  were  necessarily 
omitted,  owing  to  the  report  of  the  expedition  having  been  called 
for  by  Congress  before  I  could  finish  the  necessary  analyses  and 
comparisons.  These,  however,  will  be  inserted  in  the  successive 
numbers  of  the  work  to  which  I  have  just  alluded. 

John  Torrey. 
New  York,  March,  1843. 

CATALOGUE  OF  PLANTS 

CLASS  L— EXOGENOUS  PLANTS. 
RANUNCULACEiE. 

Clematis  Virginiana  (Linn.)  Valley  of  the  Platte.  June,  July. 
Ranunculus  sceleratus  (Linn.)  Valley  of  the  Sweet  Water  river.  Au- 
gust 18-20. 
R.  Cymhalaria  (Pursh).  Upper  Platte.  July  31,  August. 
Aquilegia  cccrulea  (Torr.)  Wind  river  mountains.  August  13-16. 
Actcea  rubra  (Bigel.)  Upper  Platte.  August  26-31. 
Thalictrum  Cornuti  (Linn.)  Platte. 
T.  megacarpum,  n.  sp.  Upper  Platte.  August  26-31. 

MENISPERMACE^. 
Menispermum  Canadense  (Linn.)  Leaves  only.  On  the  Platte. 


290 


BERBERIDACEiE. 

Berberis  Aquijolium  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Wind  River  mountains.  Au- 
gust 13-16. 

PAPAVERACE^. 

Argemone  Mexicana  /3  albifiora  (DC.)  Forks  of  the  Platte.  July  2. 

CRUCIFER^. 

Nasturtium  palustre  (DC.)  Black  Hills  of  the  Platte.  July  26-Au- 

gust. 
Erysimum  cheiranthoides  (Linn.)  Black  Hills.  July  23. 
E.  asperum  (Nutt.)  South  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  4. 
Pachypodium    (Thelypodium,   Endl.   gen.,   p.   876),   integrifolium 

(Nutt.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  September  4.  Var.  with  longer 

pods.  With  the  preceding. 
Vesicaria  didymocarpa  (Hook.)   Leaves  only.  North  fork  of  the 

Platte,  above  the  Red  Buttes,  July  30. 
Braya  n.  sp.  Wind  River  mountains,  near  the  limits  of  perpetual 

snow.  August  15. 
Lepidium  ruderale  (Linn.)  On  the  Platte.  June  29. 

CAPPARIDACEiE. 

Cleome  integri folia  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  From  the  Lower  Platte  nearly 

to  the  mountains.  June  29,  July  2,  August  21. 
Polanisia  trachysperma,  P  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Black  Hills  of  the  Platte, 

July  23. 

POLYGALACE.E. 

Polygala  alba  (Nutt.)  P.  Beyrichii,  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Forks  of  the 
Platte.  July  2. 


291 


DROSERACEiE. 

Paniassia  fimbriata  (Banks.)  Little  Sandy  creek,  defiles  of  the  Wind 
River  mountains.  Aug.  8. 

CARYOPHYLLACE^. 

Arenaria  congesta  (Nutt.)  Highest  parts  of  the  Wind  River  moun- 
tains. Aug.  13-16. 

Silene  Drummondii  (Hook.)  With  the  preceding. 

S.  acaulis  (Linn.)  Wind  River  mountains,  at  the  limits  of  perpetual 
snow. 


PORTULACACEiE. 

Talinum  paruiflorum  (Nutt.)  Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.  June 
26. 


LINACEiE. 

Linum  rigidum  (Pursh).  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  8. 
L.  perenne  (Linn.)  Black  Hills  to  the  Sweet  Water  of  the  Platte. 
Aug.  2-31. 


GERANIACEiE. 

Geranium  Fremontii,  n.  sp.  Black  Hills.  Aug.  26-31. 

OXALIDACEiE. 

Oxalis  stricta  (Linn.)  On  the  Kansas.  June. 

ANACARDIACEiE. 
Rhus  trilobata  (Nutt.)  Red  Buttes.  July  29. 

292 


MALVACEiE. 

Malva  pedata  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Big  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.  June  21. 
M.  involucrata  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.  June 

23. 
Sida  coccinea  (DC.)  Little  Blue  river  to  the  South  fork  of  the  Platte. 

June  22-July  4. 

VITACEiE. 

Vitis  riparia  (Michx.)  Grand  island  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  19. 

ACERACE^. 

Negmido  aceroides  (Moench.)  On  the  lower  part  of  the  Platte. 

CELASTRACE^. 

Oreophila  myrtifolia  (Nutt.)  Summit  of  the  Wind  River  mountains. 
Aug.  13-14. 

RHAMNACEiE. 

Ceanothus  vdutinus  (Dougl.)  With  the  preceding. 

C.  Americanus,  var.  sanguineus.  C.  sanguineus   (Pursh).  On  the 

Platte. 
C.  mollissimus,  n.  sp.  Near  the  Kansas  river.  June  19. 

LEGUMINOSiE. 

Lathyrus  linearis  (Nutt.)  On  the  Platte,  from  its  confluence  with  the 

Missouri,  to  Fort  Laramie.  Sept.  2-30. 
Amphicarpoea  monoica  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte. 

Sept.  4. 
Apios  tuberosa  (Moench.)  Forks  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  13. 
Glycyrrhiza  lepidota  (Pursh).  From  near  the  Kansas  river  to  the 

Black  Hills  of  the  Platte.  June  21-July  25. 


293 


Psoralea  floribunda  (Nutt.)  Forks  of  the  Platte.  July  2. 

P.  campestris  (Nutt.?)  and  a  more  glabrous  variety.  With  the  pre- 
ceding. July  2. 

P.  lanceolata  (Pursh).  Black  Hills  of  the  Platte.  July  24. 

P.  argophylla  (Pursh).  Little  Blue  river.  June  23. 

P.  tenuifiora,  (Pursh).  (no  flowers).  Forks  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  12. 

Petalostemon  violaceum  (Michx.)  Big  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas,  &c. 
June  21. 

P.  candidum  (Michx.)  Red  Buttes.  July  29. 

Amorpha  fruticosa  (Linn.)  From  the  Lower  Platte  to  the  moun- 
tains. August  8-Sept.  19. 

A.  canescens  (Nutt.)  Kansas  and  the  Lower  Platte  rivers.  June  19- 
Sept.  20. 

Lespedeza  capitata  (Michx.)  Mouth  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  30. 

Desmodium  acuminatum  (DC.)  Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas. 
June  22. 

Astragalus  gracilis  (Nutt.)  Forks  of  the  Platte.  July  2. 

A.  mollissimus  (Torr.)  Valley  of  the  Platte.  June  29. 

A.  Hypoglottis  (Linn.)  Sweet  Water  of  the  Platte.  Aug.  5. 

Oxytropis  Lambertii  (Pursh).  Big  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas  to  the 
forks  of  the  Platte.  June  20-July  2. 

O.  Plattensis  (Nutt.?)  (no  flowers).  Goat  island  of  the  Upper  Platte. 
July  31. 

Phaca  astragali na  (DC.)  Highest  summits  of  the  Wind  River  moun- 
tain. Aug.  15. 

P.  elegans  (Hook.)  var.?  Goat  island  of  the  Upper  Platte.  July  31. 

P.  {Orophaca)  digitata,  n.  sp.  Little  Sandy  river.  Aug.  8. 

P.  longifolia  (Nutt.)  (leaves  only).  Wind  River  mountains.  Aug. 
12-17. 

Kentrophyta  montana  (Nutt.)  Laramie  river  to  the  Sweet  Water. 
July  14-Aug.  5. 

Lupinus  leucophyllus  (Lindl.)  Wind  River  mountains,  and  Sweet 
Water  of  the  Platte.  Aug.  4-21. 

L.  ornatus  (Dougl.)   L.  leucopsis   (Agardh.)   With  the  preceding. 

Baptisia  leucatitha,  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Kansas  river. 

Thermopsis  montana  (Nutt.)  Sweet  Water  river.  Aug.  5. 

Cassia  chamaecrista  (Linn.)  Mouth  of  the  Platte.  Sept  30. 

Schrankja  uncinata  (Willd.)  Kansas  and  Platte  rivers.  June  19- 
Sept. 

Darlingtonia  brachypoda  (DC.)  On  the  Platte.  Sept.  17. 

294 


ROSACEA. 

Cerasus  Virginiafia   (Torr.  and  Gr.)   Upper  North   Fork   of  the 

Platte.  July  30. 
Cercocarpus  parvifoUus  (Nutt.)   Bitter  creek,  North  Fork  of  the 

Platte.  July  22. 
Purs  hi  a  tridentata  (DC.)  Sweet  Water  river,  &c.  Aug.  12-Sept. 
Geum  Virginianum  (Linn.)  Kansas  river.  June  20. 
Sibbaldia  procumbens  (Linn.)  Wind  River  mountains,  near  perpet- 
ual snow.  Aug.  13-14. 
Potentilla  gracilis  (Dougl.)  With  the  preceding. 
P.  diversifolia  (Lehm.)  Sweet  Water  of  the  Platte  to  the  mountains. 

Aug.  4-15. 
P.  sericea  P.  glabrata  (Lehm.)  With  the  preceding. 
P.  fruticosa  (Linn.)  With  the  preceding. 
P.  Anserina  (Linn.)  Black  Hills  of  the  Platte.  July  26-31. 
P.  arguta  (Pursh).  Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas,  and  Black  Hills 

of  the  Platte.  June  23-Aug.  28. 
Rubus  strigosus  (Michx.)   Defiles  of  the  Wind  River  mountains. 

Aug.  12-17. 
Amdanchier  diversifolia,   var.   alnifolia,    (Torr.   and    Gr.)    Sweet 

Water  of  the  Platte.  August  5. 
Rosa  blanda  (Ait.)  Lower  Platte. 
R.  foliolosa  (Nutt.)  var.  leiocarpa.  With  the  preceding. 

ONAGRACEi^. 

Epilobium  coloratum  (Muhl.)  Black  Hills  of  the  Platte  to  the  Sweet 
Water  river.  Aug.  4-31. 

E.  spicatum  (Lam.)  From  the  Red  Buttes  to  the  Wind  River  moun- 
tains. Aug,  13-31. 

(Enothera  albicatdis  (Nutt.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  14. 

CE.  Missouriensis  (Sims.)  Big  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.  June  19-20. 

(E.  trichocalyx  (Nutt.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  30. 

(E.  serrulata  (Nutt.)  On  the  Kansas  and  Platte.  June-July  14. 

(E.  rhombipetala  (Nutt.)  On  the  Platte.  September  18-20. 

(E.  biennis  (Linn.)  Black  Hills  to  the  Sweet  Water  river.  July  23- 
August  4. 

(E.  {Taraxia)  Nuttallii  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Upper  part  of  the  Sweet 
Water. 


295 


(E.  speciosa  (Nutt.)  Big  Blue  river  of  the  Kanzas.  June  19-20. 
(E.  Drummondii  (Hook.?)  Black  Hills.  July  26. 
Gaura  coccinea  (Nutt.)  Var.  ?  Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kanzas,  and 
south  fork  of  the  Platte.  June  26-July  4. 

LOASACEiE. 

Mentzelia  nuda  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  14. 

GROSSULACEiE. 

Rihes  cereum  (Lindl.)  Sweet  Water  of  the  Platte.  August  2-4. 

R.  lacustre  (Poir.)  With  the  preceding.  /5.  leaves  deeply  lobed.  R. 

echinatum  (Dougl.)  Perhaps  a  distinct  species. 
R.  irriguum  (Dougl.)  With  the  preceding. 

CACTACEiE. 

Opiintia  Missouriensis  (DC.)  Forks  of  the  Platte.  July  2. 

CRASSULACEiE. 

Sediim  Rhodiola  (DC.)  On  a  lake  in  Wind  River  mountains.  Au- 
gust 12-17. 

UMBELLIFERiE. 

Heracletitn  lanatum  (Michx.r)  Leaves  only.  The  leaves  are  more 
glabrous  than  in  the  ordinary  form  of  the  plant.  Alpine  region  of 
the  Wind  River  mountains. 

Polyt(£?iia  NuttalUi  (DC.)  On  the  Kanzas.  June  20. 

Sium?  incisu?72,  n.  sp.  Stem  sulcate;  segments  of  the  leaves  distant, 
deeply  incised  or  pinnatified;  the  lower  teeth  or  divisions  often 
elongated  and  linear.— North  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  12. 

Edosmia  Gairdneri  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Without  fruit. 

Cicnta  macidata  (Linn.)  Lower  Platte. 

Musemum  tenuijolium  (Nutt.)  Alpine  region  of  the  Wind  River 
mountains. 

296 


CORNACE^. 

Comus  stolo?iifera  (Michx.)  On  a  lake  in  the  Wind  River  moun- 
tains. August  12-17. 
C.  circinata  (L'Her.)  On  the  Platte. 

CAPRIFOLIACEiE. 

Symphoricarpus  occidefitalis  (R.  Brown).  North  fork  of  the  Platte. 

July  10-Aug.  31. 
S.  vulgaris  (Michx.)  Defiles  of  the  Wind  River  mountains.  August 

13-14. 

RUBIACE.E. 

Galium  boreale  (Linn.)  Upper  part  of  the  north  fork  of  the  Platte. 
August  12-31. 

COMPOSITiE. 

V ernonia  fasciculata  (Michx.)  On  the  Platte. 

Liatris  scariosa  (Willd.)  Lower  part  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  27. 

L.  spicata  (Willd.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  4. 

L.  squarrosa,  var.  intermedia  (DC.)  A  small  form  of  the  plant.  On 
the  Platte. 

L.  punctata  (Hook.)  Black  Hills  of  the  Platte.  Aug.  29. 

Brickellia  grandiflora  (Nutt.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte. 

Aster  ifitegrifolius  (Nutt.)  Base  of  the  Wind  River  mountains. 

A.  adscendens  (Lindl.)  Wind  River  Mountains.  Var.  Fremontii. 
With  the  preceding,  the  highest  summits  to  the  limits  of  per- 
petual snow.  Aug.  16. 

A.  laevis  (Linn.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte. 

A.  Novi-Belgii  (Linn.)  Sweet  Water  of  the  Platte.  August  22. 

A.  cordifolius  (Linn.)  Lower  Platte. 

A.  multiflorus,  P.  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Upper  Platte,  &c. 

A.  jalcatus  (Lindl.)  Black  Hills  to  the  Sweet  Water.  July  30-Aug. 

A.  laxifolius  (Nees.)  On  the  Platte,  from  its  mouth  to  the  forks. 
Sept.  12-30. 

A.  oblongifolius  (Nutt.)  Lower  Platte,  &c. 

297 


A.  Novce-Afiglice  (Linn.)  Lower  Platte  to  the  Wind  River  moun- 
tains. Aug.  18-Sept.  24. 

A.  Andmus  (Nutt.)  Near  the  snow  hne  of  the  Wind  River  moun- 
tains. Aug.  16. 

A.  glacialis  (Nutt.)  With  the  preceding. 

A.  salsuginosus  (Richards.)  With  the  preceding. 

A.  elegans  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Wind  River  mountains. 

A.  glaucus  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  With  the  preceding. 

Dieteria  viscosa  (Nutt.)  On  the  Platte. 

D.  coronopifolia  (Nutt.)  With  the  preceding. 

D.  pulverulenta  (Nutt.)  Near  D.  sessiliflora.  With  the  preceding. 
Erigeron  Cariadense  (Linn.)  On  the  Platte,  from  near  its  mouth  to 

the  Red  Buttes.  Latter  part  of  September  to  July  30. 

E.  Bellidiastrum  (Nutt.)  On  the  Platte. 

E.  macranthum  (Nutt.)  With  the  preceding. 

E.  glabellum  (Nutt.)  With  the  preceding. 

E.  strigosum  (Muhl.)  With  the  preceding. 

Gutierrezia  Euthamicc  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Laramie  river,  upper  north 

fork  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  3. 
Solidago  rigida  (Linn.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte. 
S.  Missouriensis  (Nutt.)   Fort  Laramie,  north  fork  of  the  Platte. 

July  22,  to  the  mountains. 
S.  speciosa  (Nutt.)  Upper  Platte. 
S.  Virga-aurea  (Linn.)   var.  multiradiata,  (Torr.  and  Gr.)   Wind 

River  mountain,  from  the  height  of  7,000  feet  to  perpetual  snow. 
S.  incana  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Sweet  Water  river. 
S.  gigantea  (Linn.)  var.  /?.  From  the  Platte  to  the  mountains. 
Linosyris  graveolens  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Sweet  Water  river.  Aug.  20. 
L.  fiscidi flora  (Hook.)  Upper  Platte. 
Aplopappus  spmulosus   (DC.)   Fort  Laramie,   north  fork   of  the 

Platte.  Sept.  3. 
Grindelia  squarrosa  (Dunal).  Upper  north  fork  of  the  Platte,  and  on 

the  Sweet  Water.  July  22-Aug.  21. 
Chrysopsis  hispida  (Hook.)  On  the  Platte. 

C.  mollis  (Nutt.)  With  the  preceding.  Too  near  C.  foliosa,  (Nutt.) 
Iva  axillaris  (Pursh).  Sweet  Water  river.  Aug.  3. 
Franseria  discolor  (Nutt.)  Near  the  Wind  River  mountains. 
Lepachys  columnaris  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas. 

June  26. 
Balsamorrhiza  sagittata  (Nutt.)  Wind  River  mountains. 

298 


Heliafithus  petiolaris  (Nutt.)  Black  Hills  of  the  Platte.  July  26. 

H.Maximiliani  (Schrad.)  With  the  preceding. 

Helianthella  utii flora  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Wind  River  mountains. 

Coreopsis  tinctoria  (Nutt.)  On  the  Platte. 

Cosmidium  gracile  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Upper  Platte. 

Bidens  connata  (Muhl.)  With  the  preceding. 

Hymenopappus  corymhosus  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  With  the  preceding. 

Actinella  grandifiora  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  n.  sp.  Wind  River  mountains. 

Achillea  Millefolium  (Linn.)  A.  lanosa.  (Nutt.)  Upper  Platte  to 
the  mountains. 

Artemisia  biennis  (Willd.)  On  the  Platte. 

A.  cana  (Pursh).  Without  flowers.  With  the  preceding. 

A.  tridentata  (Nutt.)  On  the  Sweet  Water,  near  the  mountains. 

A.  filifolia  (Torr.)  South  fork  of  the  Platte,  and  north  fork,  to  Lara- 
mie river.  July  4-Sept.  3. 

A.  Canadensis  (Michx.)  With  the  preceding. 

A.  Ludoviciana,  (Nutt.)  Black  Hills  of  the  Platte.  July  26. 

A.  frigida  (Willd.)  Black  Hills  to  the  mountains. 

A.  Lewisii  (Torr.  and  Gr.  ?)  No  flowers.  On  the  Platte. 

Stephanomeria  runcinata  (Nutt.)  Upper  Platte. 

Gnaphalium  uliginosum.  (Linn.)  Var.  foliis  angustioribus.  Sweet 
Water  river. 

G.  palustre  (Nutt.)  ^.  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  With  the  preceding. 

Artiica  an gusti folia  (Vahl.)  A.  fulgens,  (Pursh).  Defiles  of  the  Wind 
River  mountains,  from  7,000  feet  and  upwards.  August  13-14. 

Senecio  triangularis  (Hook.)  P.  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  With  the  preced- 
ing. 

S.  subnudus  (DC.)  With  the  preceding. 

S.  Fremontii  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  n.  sp.  Highest  parts  of  the  mountains, 
to  the  region  of  perpetual  snow.  Aug.  15. 

S.  rapifolius  (Nutt.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte  and  Sweet  Water. 

S.  lanceolatus  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  n.  sp.  With  the  preceding. 

S.  hydrophilus  (Nutt.)  On  a  lake  in  the  Wind  River  mountains. 
Aug.  12-17. 

S.  spartioides  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  n.  sp.  Sweet  Water  river.  Aug.  21. 

Cacalia  tuberosa  (Nutt.)  Upper  Platte. 

S.  filijolius  (Nutt.)  /^.  Fremontii,  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Lower  Platte. 

Tetradymia  inermis  (Nutt.)  Sweet  Water  river,  from  its  mouth  to 
the  highest  parts  of  the  Wind  River  mountains. 

Cirsium  altissimum  (Spreng.)  Lower  Platte. 

299 


Crepis  glauca  (Hook.)  Upper  Platte. 

Macrorhynchus  {Stylopappus)  troximoides  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Defiles 
of  the  Wind  River  mountains.  Aug.  13-14. 

Mulgedium  pulchdlum  (Torr.  and  Gr.)  Black  Hills  of  the  Platte. 
July  25-31. 

Lygodesmia  juncea  (Don).  Upper  Platte. 

Troximoji  pari/ifiorum  (Nutt.)  Sweet  Water  river,  near  the  moun- 
tains. 


LOBELIACEiE. 

Lobelia  spicata  (Lam.)  On  the  Lower  Platte.  June  28. 
L.  siphilitica  (Linn.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  4. 


CAMPANULACEiE. 

Campanula  rotundifolia  (Linn.)  Lower  Platte. 

Specularia  amplexicauUs  (DC.)  Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas. 


ERICACEAE. 

Phyllodoce  empetriformis  (D.  Don).  Defiles  of  the  Wind  River 
mountains.  Aug.  13-16. 

Vaccinium  myrtilloides  (Hook.)  Wind  River  mountains,  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  perpetual  snow.  Aug.  15. 

V.  uliginosum  (Linn.)  With  the  preceding. 

Artostaphylos  Uva-ursi  (Spreng.)  On  a  lake  in  the  mountains.  Aug. 
12-17. 


PRIMULACE^. 

Dodecatheon  dentatum  (Hook.)  Defiles  of  the  Wind  River  moun- 
tains. Aug.  13-16. 
Androsace  occidentalis  (Nutt.)  Sweet  Water  river.  Aug.  5. 
Lysimachia  ciliata  (Linn.)  Forks  of  the  Platte.  July  2. 
Glaux  mantima  (Linn.)  Upper  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  31. 

300 


SCROPHULARIACE^. 

Orthocarpus  luteus  (Nutt.)  Sweet  Water  river.  Aug.  5. 

M'lmiilus  alsinoides  (Benth.)  Defiles  of  the  Wind  River  mountains. 
Aug.  13-16. 

M.  Lewisii  (Pursh).  With  the  preceding. 

Castilleja  pallida  (Kunth).  Sweet  Water  river.  Aug.  8. 

C.  miniata  (Benth.)  Wind  River  mountains.  Aug.  13-16.  There  are 
two  or  three  other  species  of  this  genus  in  the  collection,  which  I 
have  not  been  able  to  determine. 

Veronica  alpiiia  /?.  (Hook.)  Alpine  region  of  the  Wind  River  moun- 
tains. 

?entstemon  albidum  (Nutt.)  Forks  of  the  Platte.  July  2. 

P.  ccsruleum  (Nutt.)  South  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  4. 

P.  micranthum  (Nutt.)  Sources  of  the  Sweet  Water,  near  the  moun- 
tains. Aug.  7. 

Pedicularis  surrecta  (Benth.)  Defiles  of  the  Wind  River  mountains. 
Aug.  13-16. 

Gerardia  longifolia  (Nutt.)  Lower  Platte.  July  22. 

OROBANCHACEiE. 

Orobanche  fascictdata  (Nutt.)  South  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  4. 

LABIATE. 

Monarda  fistulosa  (Linn.)  On  the  Platte. 
Teucrium  Canadense  (Linn.)  With  the  preceding. 
Lycopiis  sinuatus  (Ell.)  With  the  preceding. 
Stachys  aspera  (Michx.)  Forks  of  the  Platte.  July  2. 
Scutellaria  galericulata  (Linn.)  North  of  the  Platte.  July  10. 
Mentha  Canadensis  (Linn.)  With  the  preceding. 
Salvia  azurea  (Lam.)  Kansas  river  and  forks  of  the  Platte.  June 
19-29,  July  2. 

VERBENACE^. 

Lippia  cunei folia,  Zapania  cuneifolia  (Torr.!  in  ann.  Lye.  Nat.  Hist. 
N.  York,  2.  p.  234.)  N.  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  12. 

301 


Verbena  stricta  (Vent.)  With  the  preceding. 
V.  hastata  (Linn.)  With  the  preceding. 
V.  bracteata  (Michx.)  With  the  preceding. 

BORAGINACE.E. 

Pulmonaria  ciliata  (James;  Torr.  in  ann.  Lye.  N.  York,  2.  p.  224.) 

Defiles  in  the  Wind  River  mountains.  Aug.  13-15. 
Onostnodium  molle  (Michx.)  On  the  Platte.  June  29. 
Batschia  Gmelini  (Michx.)  Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.  June  22. 
Myosotis  glomerata  (Nutt.)  Forks  of  the  Platte.  July  2. 

HYDROPHYLLACE^. 

Eutoca  sericea  (Lehm.)  Wind  River  mountains! 

Phacelia  leucophylla,  n.  sp.  White  plant  strigosely  canescent;  leaves 
elliptical,  petiolate  entire;  racemes  numerous,  scorpioid,  densely 
flowered.— Goat  Island,  upper  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  30. 
Perennial. — Stems  branching  from  the  base.  Leaves  about  two 
inches  long,  and  6-8  lines  wide;  radical  and  lower  cauline  ones  on 
long  petioles;  the  others  nearly  sessile.  Spikes  forming  a  terminal 
crowded  sort  of  panicle.  Flowers  sessile,  about  3  lines  long.  Sepals 
strongly  hispid.  Corolla  one-third  longer  than  the  calyx;  the  lobes 
short  and  entire.  Stamens  much  exserted ;  filaments  glabrous.  Style 
2-parted  to  the  middle,  the  lower  part  hairy.  Ovary  hispid,  incom- 
pletely 2-celled,  with  2  ovules  in  each  cell.  Capsule,  by  abortion, 
one-seeded;  seed  oblong,  strongly  punctate.  Nearly  related  to  P. 
integrifolia  (Torr.)  ;  but  differs  in  the  leaves  being  perfectly  entire, 
the  more  numerous  spikes,  one-seeded  capsules,  as  well  as  in  the 
whitish  strigose  pubescence  of  the  whole  plant. 

POLEMONIACEiE. 

Phlox  muscoides  (Nutt.)  Immediately  below  the  region  of  perpetual 

snow,  on  the  Wind  River  mountains.  Aug.  15. 
P.  Hoodii  (Richards.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  8. 
P.  pilosa  (Nutt.)  Big  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.  June  20. 


302 


Polemonium  caruleum  (Linn.,  Hook.)  Red  Buttes  on  the  Upper 

N.  fork  of  the  Platte.  P  humile  (Hook.)   Highest  parts  of  the 

mountains,  near  perpetual  snow.  Aug.  13-15. 
Gilia  {Cantua)  Ion gi flora  (Torr.)  Sand  Hills  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  16. 
G.  pulchella  (Dougl.)  Upper  part  of  the  Sweet  Water,  near  the 

mountains.  Aug.  7-20. 
G.  incofispicua  (Dougl.?)  Goat  Island,  upper  N.  fork  of  the  Platte. 

July  30.  This  differs  from  the  Oregon  plant  in  its  fleshy,  simply 

pinnatifid  leaves,  with  ovate,  obtuse  segments. 


CONVOLVULACE.E. 

Calystegia  septum  (R.  Br.)  Forks  of  the  Platte.  July  2. 

Ipomoca  leptophylla,  n.  sp.  Stems  branching  from  the  base,  prostrate, 
glabrous,  angular;  leaves  lanceolate-linear,  very  acute,  entire,  at- 
tenuate at  the  base  into  a  petiole;  peduncles  1-3-flowered;  sepals 
roundish-ovate,  obtuse  with  a  minute  mucro. — Forks  of  the  Platte 
to  Laramie  river.  July  4-Sept.  3.  Imperfect  specimens  of  this  plant 
were  collected  about  the  sources  of  the  Canadian,  by  Dr.  James,  in 
Long's  expedition;  but  they  were  not  described  in  my  account  of 
his  plants.  The  root,  according  to  Dr.  James,  is  annual,  producing 
numerous  thick  prostrate,  but  not  twining,  stems,  which  are  two 
feet  or  more  in  length.  The  leaves  are  from  two  to  four  inches 
long,  acute  at  each  end,  strongly  veined  and  somewhat  coriaceous. 
Peduncles  an  inch  or  more  in  length,  those  towards  the  extremity 
of  the  branches  only  1-flowered;  the  lower  ones  bearing  2-3,  and 
sometimes  4  flowers,  which  are  nearly  the  size  of  those  of  Caly- 
stegia sepium,  and  of  a  purplish  color.  Sepals  appressed,  about  five 
lines  long.  Corolla  campanulate — funnel  form,  the  tube  much 
longer  than  the  calyx.  Stamens  inserted  near  the  base  of  the  co- 
rolla; filaments  villous  at  the  base,  anthers  oblong-linear,  large. 
Style  as  long  as  the  stamens;  stigma  2-lobed;  the  lobes  capitate. 
Ovary  2-celled,  with  two  ovules  in  each  cell. 


SOLANACE.E. 

Nycterium  luteum  (Donn  cat.)  South  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  4. 

303 


Physalis  pubescens  (Willd.)  Upper  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  23. 
P.  pumila  (Nutt.)  With  the  preceding. 

GENTIANACE^. 

Gentiana  arctophila  P  densiflora  (Griseb.  ?  in  Hook.  fl.  Bor. — Am. 
2.  p.  61.)  Sweet  Water  of  the  Platte.  Aug.  4. 

G.  (vffinis  (Griseb.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  9. 

G.  Pneumonanthe  (Linn.)  Laramie  river  to  Little  Sandy  creek  in 
the  mountains.  July  12-Aug.  8. 

G.  Fremontii,  n.  sp.  Stem  branched  at  the  base;  branches  1-flowered; 
leaves  ovate,  cuspidate,  cartilaginous  on  the  margin,  erect;  corolla 
funnel-form ;  plicae  small,  slightly  2-toothed ;  capsule  ovate,  at  length 
entirely  exserted  on  its  thick  stipe. — ^Wind  River  mountains. — 
Annual.  Branches  several,  2-3  inches  long,  of  nearly  equal  length. 
Leaves  about  three  lines  long,  with  a  strong  whitish  cartilaginous 
border,  shorter  than  the  internodes.  Flowers  as  large  as  those  of 
G.  prostrata,  pentamerous.  Calyx  two-thirds  the  length  of  the  co- 
rolla; the  teeth  about  one-third  the  length  of  the  tube.  Plicae  of  the 
coralla  scarcely  one-third  as  long  as  the  lanceolate  lobes.  Stamens 
included;  anthers  oblong,  somewhat  cordate  at  the  base.  Capsule 
in  maturity,  and  after  dehiscence  (in  which  state  all  our  specimens 
were  collected),  exserted  quite  beyond  the  corolla,  and,  with  its 
long  stipe,  resembling  a  style  with  a  large  bilamellate  stigma. 
None  of  the  capsules  contained  any  seeds.  This  species  is  nearly  re- 
lated to  G.  prostrata  (Haenk.)  and  G.  humilis  (Stev.),  but  the 
former  has  spatulate  obtuse  recurved  leaves,  and  the  latter  entire 
plicae,  which  are  nearly  the  length  of  the  corroUa.  In  G.  humilis, 
and  in  the  allied  G.  squarrosa  (Ledeb.)  the  capsule  is  exserted 
after  discharging  the  seeds. 

Swertia  perennis,  ^  obtusa  (Hook.)  From  Laramie  river  to  the  Big 
Buttes. 

Frasera  speciosa,  (Hook.)  Defiles  of  the  Wind  River  mountains. 
Aug.  13-14. 

Lisianthus  Russelianus  (Hook.)  Lower  Platte  to  the  Forks.  July- 
Sept. 

APOCYNACEiE. 

Apocynum  cannabinum  (Linn.)  On  the  Platte. 

304 


ASCLEPIADACEiE. 

Asdepias  speciosa  (Torr.,  in  ann.  Lye.  N.  York,  2.  p.  218. — A. 
Douglasii,  Hook.  fl.  Bor.— Am.  2  p.  53.  t.  142.)  Forks  of  the  Platte. 
July  2.  Collected  also  by  Mr.  Nicollet  in  his  Northwestern  expedi- 
tion. Hooker's  plant  differs  in  no  essential  characters  from  my  A. 
speciosa,  collected  by  Dr.  James  in  Long's  first  expedition. 

A.  verticillata  (Linn.)  Small  variety.  With  the  preceding. 

A.  tuherosa  (Linn.)  Kansas  river.  June  19. 

Anantherix  viridis  (Nutt.)  Big  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.  June  20. 

Acerates  longijolia  (Ell.)  Polyotus  longifolia.  (Nutt.)  With  the 
preceding. 

A.  angustijoVms.  Polyotus  angustifolius.  (Nutt.)  With  the  preceding. 

OLEACEiE. 
Fraxinus  platycarpa  (Michx.)  Leaves  only.  Lower  Platte. 

PLANTAGINACE^. 

Plantago  eriopoda  (Torr.  in  ann.  Lye.  N.  York,  2,  p.  237.)  Mouth  of 

the  Sweet  Water.  July  31. 
P.  gnaphaloides  (Nutt.)  Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.  June  24. 

CHENOPODIACE^. 

Chenopodium  zosterijolium  (Hook.)  Platte? 

C.  Album  (Linn.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  12. 

Olione  canescens  (Mocq.  Chenop.  p.  74.)  Atriplex  canescens.  (Nutt.) 

Upper  north  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  26. 
Cycloloma  platyphylla  (Mocq.  1.  c.  p.  18.)  Kochia  dentata,  (Willd.) 

North  fork  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  4. 
Sueda  mantima  (Mocq.  1.  c.  p.  127.)  With  the  preceding. 
Eurotia  lanata  (Mocq.  1.  c.  p.  81.)  Diotis  lanata,  (Pursh).  Red  Buttes 

to  the  mountains.  Aug.  18-25. 
Fremontia,  n.  gen.  Flowers  diclinous,  monoecious  &?  dioicous,  het- 

eromorphous.  Stam.  Fl.  in  terminal  aments.  Scales  eccentrically 

peltate,  on  a  short  stipe,  angular,  somewhat  cuspidate  upward. 

Stamens  2-3^  under  each  scale,  naked,  sessile;  anthers  oblong. 

305 


Pist.  Fl.  solitary,  axillary.  Perigonium   closely   adhering  to   the 
lower  half  of  the  ovary,  the  border  entire,  nearly  obsolete,  but  in 
fruit  enlarging  into  a  broad   horizontal   angular   and   undulate 
wing.  Ovary  ovate;  styles  thick,  divaricate;  stigmas  linear.  Fruit  a 
utricle,  the  lower  two-thirds  covered  with  the  indurated  calyx, 
compressed.  Seed  vertical;  integument  double.  Embryo  flat-spiral 
(2-3  turns)  green;  radicle  inferior;  albumen  none. 
F.  vermicularis.  Batis?  vermicularis,  (Hook.)  Fl.  Bor.  Amer.  2.  p. 
128.  Upper  north  fork  of  the  Platte,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet 
Water.  July  30.  A  low,  glabrous,  diffusely  branched  shrub,  clothed 
with  a  whitish  bark.  Leaves  alternate,  linear,  fleshy  and  almost 
semiterete,  6-12  lines  long  and  1-2  lines  wide.  Staminate  aments 
about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  long,  cylindrical,  at  first  dense,  and 
composed  of  closely  compacted  angular  scales,  covering  naked  an- 
thers. Anthers  very  deciduous.  Fertile  flowers  in  the  axils  of  the 
rameal  leaves.  Calyx  closely  adherent,  and  at  first  with  only  an  ob- 
scure border  or  limb,  but  at  length  forming  a  wing  3-4  lines  in 
diameter,  resembling  that  of  Salsola.  This  remarkable  plant,  which 
I  dedicate  to  Lieutenant  Fremont,  was  first  collected  by  Dr.  James 
about  the  sources  of  the  Canadian,  (in  Long's  expedition)  but  it 
was  omitted  in  my  account  of  his  plants,  published  in  the  Annals 
of  the  Lyceum  of  Natural  History.  It  is  undoubtedly  the  Batis? 
vermicularis  of  Hooker,  (1.  c.)  collected  on  the  barren  grounds  of 
the  Oregon  river  by  the  late  Mr.  Douglas,  who  found  it  with  only 
the  staminate  flowers.  We  have  it  now  from  a  third  locality,  so 
that  the  plant  must  be  widely  diffused  in  the  barren  regions  to- 
wards the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  belongs  to  the  sub-order  Spiro- 
lobeae  of  Meyer  and  Mocquin,  but  can  hardly  be  referred  to  either 
the  tribe  Suaedinae  or  to  Salsolae,  differing  from  both  in  its  dicli- 
nous heteromorphous  flowers,  and  also  from  the  latter  in  its  flat- 
spiral,  not  cochleate  embryo. 


NYCTAGINACEiE. 

Oxybaphus  nyctaginea  (Torr.  in  James'  Rocky  mountain  plants.) 
=  Calymenia  nyctaginea  (Nutt.)  Kansas  river,  June  20. 

Abronia  mellijera  (Dougl.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte,  July  7-12. 

A.  {Tripterocalyx)  micranthum,  n.  sp.  Viscid  and  glandularly  pubes- 
cent; leaves  ovate,  undulate,  obtuse,  acute  at  the  base,  petiolate; 

306 


perianth  funnel  form,  4-lobed  at  the  summit,  3-4  androus;  ache- 
nium  broadly  3-winged.— Near  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water 
river.  Aug.  1.  Annual.  Stem  diffusely  branched  from  the  base,  be- 
ginning to  flower  when  only  an  inch  high;  the  branches  of  the 
mature  plant  above  a  foot  long.  Leaves  1-1|  inch  in  length; 
petioles  about  as  long  as  the  lamina.  Heads  axillary.  Involucre  5- 
leaved,  8-14-flowered ;  leaflets  ovate,  acuminate.  Perianth  colored 
(purplish)  3-4  lines  long;  lobes  semi-ovate,  obtuse.  Stamens  in- 
serted in  the  middle  of  the  tube,  unequal ;  anthers  ovate,  sagittate 
at  the  base.  Ovary  oblong,  clothed  with  the  3-winged  base  of  the 
calyx;  style  filiform;  stigma  filiform-clavate,  incurved.  Mature 
achenium  about  7  lines  long  and  4  wide,  the  wings  broad,  nearly 
equal,  membranaceous  and  strongly  reticulated.  Seed  oblong.  Em- 
bryo conduplicate,  involving  the  deeply  2-parted  mealy  albumen ; 
radicle  linear-terete;  inner  cotyledon  abortive!  outer  one  oblong, 
foliaceous,  concave,  as  long  as  the  radicle.  This  interesting  plant 
differs  from  its  congeners  in  its  funnel-form  perianth,  3-4  androus 
flowers,  and  broadly  3-winged  fruit,  but  I  have  not  been  able  to 
compare  it  critically  with  other  species  of  Abronia.  It  may  prove 
to  be  a  distinct  genus. 


POLYGONACE.^. 


Polygonum  Persicana  (Linn.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  4. 

P.  aviculare  (Linn.)  With  the  preceding. 

P.  amphibium  (Linn.)  Sweet  Water  river.  August  4. 

P.  viviparum  (Linn.)  Black  Hills.  July  26. 

Rumex  salicijolius  (Weinn.)  With  the  preceding. 

Oxyria  renijormis  (Hill.)  Alpine  region  of  the  Wind  River  moun- 
tains. August  13-16. 

Eriogofium  ovali folium  (Nutt.)  Horse-shoe  creek,  upper  north  fork 
of  the  Platte.  July  22. 

E.  co£spitosum  (Nutt.)  With  the  preceding. 

E.  umbellatum  (Torr.)  in  ann.  Lye.  Nat.  Hist.  N.  York,  2,  p.  241. 
Sweet  Water  river,  Aug.  7. 

E.  Fremontii,  n.  sp.  With  the  preceding. 

E.  annuum  (Nutt.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  September  4. 

307 


ELEAGNACE^. 

Shepherdia  argentea  (Nutt.)  "Grains  de  boeuf."  Upper  north  fork  of 
the  Platte,  from  the  Red  Buttes  to  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water. 
Aug.  24-28. 

S.  Canadensis  (Nutt.)  On  a  lake  in  the  Wind  River  mountains. 
August  12-17. 

Eleagnus  argenteus  (Pursh).  With  the  preceding. 


EUPHORBIACE^. 

Euphorbia  marginata  (Pursh).  Forks  of  the  Platte.  September  11. 

E.  polygonifolia  (Linn).  South  Fork  of  the  Platte.  July  4. 

E.  corollata  (Linn.)  On  the  Kanzas. 

E.  obtusata  (Pursh).  Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kanzas.  July  23. 

Pilinophytum  capitatum  (Klotsch  in  Weigem.  arch.  Apr.  1842.) 
Croton  capitatum  (Michx.)  Forks  of  the  Platte. 

Hendecandra?  (Esch.)  multi flora,  n.  sp.;  annual  canescent,  with  stel- 
late pubescence,  dioecious;  stem  somewhat  diffusely  and  trichoto- 
mously  branched;  leaves  ovate-oblong,  petiolate,  obtuse,  entire; 
staminate  flowers  on  crowded  axillary  and  terminal  compound 
spikes. — Laramie  river,  north  fork  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  3-11. — About 
a  foot  high.  Fructiferous  plant  unknown.  With  larger  leaves.  Forks 
of  the  Platte.  July  2.  This  seems  to  be  the  same  as  the  plant  of 
Drummond's  Texan  Collection,  III.,  No.  266. 


SALICIACEiE. 

Salix  longifolia  (Willd.)  On  the  Platte. 

S.  Muhlenbergii  (Willd.)  With  the  preceding.  Several  other  species 
exist  in  the  collection — some  from  the  Platte,  others  from  the 
mountains;  but  I  have  had  no  time  to  determine  them  satis- 
factorily. 

Populus  tremuloides  (Michx.)  Lake  in  the  Wind  River  mountains. 

?.  angustifolia  (Torr.  in  ann.  Lye.  N.  Hist,  of  New  York,  2,  p.  249.) 
Sweet  Water  river.  Aug.  21. 

P.  monilifera  (Ait.)  Lower  Platte. 

308 


ULMACE^. 

Ulmus  fulva  (Michx.)  Lower  Platte. 

Celtis  crassijoUa  (Nutt.)  With  the  preceding. 

BETULACE^. 

Betula  glandulosa  (Michx.)  On  a  lake  in  the  Wind  River  mountains. 

Aug.  12-17. 
B.  occidentalis  (Hook.)  With  the  preceding. 

CONIFERiE. 

Finns  r'lgida  (Linn.)  Lower  Platte.  Without  cones.  Leaves  in  threes, 

about  3  inches  long. 
P.  undetermined.  Defiles  of  the  Wind  River  mountains.  Aug.  13-14. 

Between  P.  Strobus  and  P.  Lambertiana.  Leaves  in  5's,  1^-2  inches 

long,  rigid.  No  cones. 
P.  {Abies)  alba  (Michx.)  With  the  preceding. 
P.  near  Balsamea.  With  the  preceding.  Leaves  only. 
Jufiiperus  Virginiana  (Linn.)  Lower  Platte. 

ENDOGENOUS  PLANTS. 
ALISMACEiE. 
Sagittaria  sagittifolia  (Linn.)  On  the  Kansas. 

ORCHIDACEiE. 

Platanthera  leucophcea  (Lindl.)  Black  Hills.  July  27. 

P.  hyperborea  (R.  Br.)  Laramie  river  to  the  Red  Buttes.  Aug.  26-31. 

Spiranthes  cernua  (Rich.)  Sweet  Water  river.  Aug.  7. 

Aplectrum  hyemale  (Nutt.)  On  the  Platte.  June  29. 

IRIDACE^. 

Sisyrinchium  anceps  (Linn.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  12. 

Iris  Missouriensis  (Nutt.  in  Jour.  Acad.  Phil.  7,  p.  58.)   In  fruit. 

309 


Sweet  Water  river.  Aug.  3.  Rhizoma  very  thick.  Leaves  narrow, 
rigid,  as  long  as  the  scape.  Scape  nearly  naked,  2-flowered,  terete, 
10  inches  high.  Capsules  oblong  obtusely  triangular.  Flowers  not 
seen. 

LILIACEiE. 

Yucca  angustifolia  (Sims).  Laramie  river.  July  14. 

Allium  reticulatum  (Fras.)  Defiles  in  the  Wind  River  mountains. 

Aug.  12-17. 
Smilacina  stellata  (Desf.)  From  the  Laramie  river  to  the  Red  Buttes. 

Aug.  26-31. 

MELANTHACEiE. 

Zigadenus  glaucus  (Nutt.)  Sweet  Water  river.  Aug. 

JUNCACEiE. 

f uncus  echinatus  (Muhl.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  4. 

COMMELYNACE.E. 

Tradescantia  Virginica  (Linn.)  and  a  narrow-leaved  variety.  Kansas 
and  Platte. 

CYPERACE^. 

Carex  jestucacea  (Schk.)  On  the  Kansas.  June. 

C.  aurea  (Nutt.)  Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.  June  22. 

C.  panicea  (Linn.)  Alpine  region  of  the  Wind  River  mountains, 

near  perpetual  snow.  Aug.  15. 
C.  atrata  (Linn.)  With  the  preceding. 

GRAMINE^. 

Spartina  cynosuroides,  (Willd.)  Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.  June 
22. 


310 


Aristida  pallejis,  (Pursh).  On  the  Platte.  June  29. 

Agrostis  Michauxiana  (Trin.)  Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.  June 
23. 

Phleum  alpinum,  (Linn.)  Alpine  region  of  the  Wind  River  moun- 
tains. Aug.  13-14. 

Bromus  ciliatus  (Linn.)  On  the  Platte.  June-Aug. 

Festuca  ovina  (Linn.)  Alpine  region  of  the  Wind  River  mountains. 
Aug.  13-14. 

Festuca  nutans,  (Willd.)  On  the  Kansas. 

Foa  laxa  (Haenke.)  With  the  preceding. 

F.  crocata  (Michx.?)  With  the  preceding.  Spikelets  2-flowered. 

F.  nervata  (Willd.)  On  the  Kansas. 

Koeleria  cristata  (Pers.)  Big  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas,  and  on  the 
Platte  as  high  as  Laramie  river.  June  20-July  22. 

Deschampsia  ccespitosa,  (Beauv.)  Alpine  region  of  the  Wind  River 
mountains.  Aug.  13-14. 

Andropogon  scoparius  (Michx.)  Lower  Platte. 

A.  nutans  (Linn.)  Laramie  river,  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  Sept.  3-4. 

Hordeum  jubatum  (Ait.)  Forks  of  the  Platte.  July  2. 

Elymus  Virginicus  (Linn.)  Big  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.  June  20. 

E.  Canadensis  (Linn.)  Little  Blue  river  of  the  Kansas.  June  22. 

Bec/{mannia  erucijormis  (Jacq.)  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  July  22. 

EQUISETACE^. 

Equisetum  arvense  (Linn.)  On  a  lake  in  the  Wind  River  mountains. 
Aug.  12-17. 

FILICES. 

Hypopeltis  obtusa  (Torr.  compend.  hot.  N.  States,  p.  380,  1826.) 
Aspidium  obtusum  (Willd.)  Woodsia  Perriniana  (Hook,  and 
Grev.  Icon.  Fil.  I.  t.  68.)  Physematium  (Kaulf.)  obtusum,  (Hook, 
fl.  Bor.— Am.  2,  p.  259.)  On  the  Platte. 


3" 


ASTRONOMICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

The  maps  which  accompany  this  report  are  on  Flamsteed's  modi- 
fied projection,  and  the  longitudes  are  referred  to  the  meridian  of 
Greenwich. 

For  the  determination  of  astronomical  positions,  we  were  pro- 
vided with  the  following  instruments: 
One  telescope,  magnifying  power  120. 
One  circle,  by  Gambey,  Paris. 
One  sextant,  by  Gambey,  Paris. 
One  sextant,  by  Troughton. 
One  box  chronometer,  No.  7,810,  by  French. 
One  Brockbank  pocket  chronometer. 

One  small  watch  with  a  light  chronometer  balance,  No.  4,632, 
by  Arnold  &  Dent. 
The  rate  of  the  chronometer  7,810,  is  exhibited  in  the  following 

statement: 

"New  York,  M«)/ 5, 1842. 

"Chronometer  No.  7,810,  by  French,  is  this  day  at  noon— 
"Slow  of  Greenwich  mean  time        —        —        11' 4'' 
"Fast  of  New  York  mean  time  —        —  ^h  45'  V 

"Loses  per  day    —        —        —        —        —  2    Ao 

"Arthur  Stewart, 
"74  Merchants'  Exchange." 

An  accident  among  some  rough  ground  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  Kanzas  river,  strained  the  balance  of  this  chronometer  (No. 
7,810,)  and  rendered  it  useless  during  the  remainder  of  the  cam- 
paign. From  the  9th  of  June  to  the  24th  of  August  inclusively,  the 
longitudes  depend  upon  the  Brockbank  pocket  chronometer;  the 
rate  of  which,  on  leaving  St.  Louis,  was  fourteen  seconds.  The  rate 
obtained  by  observations  at  Fort  Laramie,  14".05,  has  been  used  in 
calculation. 

From  the  24th  of  August  until  the  termination  of  the  journey.  No. 
4,632  (of  which  the  rate  was  35".79)  was  used  for  the  sdme  purposes. 


312 


The  rate  of  this  watch  was  irregular,  and  I  place  but  little  confidence 
in  the  few  longitudes  which  depend  upon  it,  though,  so  far  as  we 
have  any  means  of  judging,  they  appear  tolerably  correct. 


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METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS 

The  elevations  which  have  been  given  in  the  course  of  the  pre- 
ceding report,  are  founded  upon  the  annexed  barometrical  observa- 
tions, and  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say  are  offered  only  as  the  best 
indications  we  have.  The  barometers  were  compared  with  those  of 
Dr.  G.  Engelman,  of  St.  Louis,  Missouri,  whose  observations  are 
given  for  a  corresponding  period.  The  following  is  the  result  of 
forty  comparative  observations  of  three  barometers  instituted  by  him 
from  May  22d,  to  May  29th,  1842,  at  St.  Louis.  Range  of  barometers 
during  that  period  0"  .400,  temperature  60°  to  75°.  Barometer  E,  as 
observed  for  and  noted  in  the  journal  of  the  academy: 

=  Fremont's  Troughton  (T.)— 0"  .136  =  Fremont's  Carey  (C.) 
—0"  .178. 
Range  in  the  differences: 

Mean  E       =  Fremont's  Troughton  (T.)— 0"  .136  =  Fremont's  Carey  (C.)— 0"  .178 
Minimum  =  "  "— 0".116=  "  "       0"  .167 

Maximum  =  "  "   —0"  .150  =  "  "       0"  .190 

Range         =  "  "       0"  .034  =  "  "       0"  .023 

In  the  annexed  observations,  the  barometers,  Troughton  and 
Carey,  are  designated  respectively  by  the  letters  T.  and  C.  In  calcu- 
lation the  observations  at  the  upper  stations  were  referred  to  the 
single  corresponding  observations  for  the  relative  period  of  time  at 
the  lower  station.  It  would  perhaps  have  been  better  to  refer  to  the 
mean  of  the  observations  for  the  month  at  the  lower  station.  In  cal- 
culation, the  tables  used  were  those  of  Bessel  and  of  Oltmanns,  as 
given  in  Humboldt. 


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The  Expedition 

of  1843-44 
to  Oregon  and  California 


62.  John  Torrey  to  Asa  Gray 

Princeton,  March  26th  1843. 
My  dear  friend 


Fremont  has  at  last  communicated  to  me  his  plans  for  the  ensuing 
season.  He  is  to  leave  Washington  about  the  5th  of  April — &  before 
the  1st  of  May  he  expects  [to]  be  beyond  the  western  frontier  of  Mis- 
souri. He  "proposes  crossing  the  mountains  to  the  south  of  the  Great 
Pass — range  along  their  western  bases — visit  the  mountainous  region 
of  the  Flat  Head  Country — probably  go  as  far  down  as  Fort  Van- 
couver— &  return  by  the  heads  of  the  Missouri."  This  will  do!  I  have 
already  given  him  directions  for  collection  &  preserving  specimens 
&  he  promises  to  pay  attention  to  what  we,  of  course,  consider  the 
main  object  of  the  expedition.^ 


Yours  affectionately, 


John  Torrey 


ALS,  RC  (MH-G).  Addressed,  "Prof.  A.  Gray,  Harvard  University,  Cam- 
bridge, Mass." 

1.  A  few  weeks  later  Torrey  wrote  Cray  again,  expressing  a  fear  that  his 
catalogue  of  Fremont's  plants  would  be  poorly  printed.  "I  have  only  received 
one  proof  sheet,  &  that  was  as  bad  as  it  could  be.  The  whole  style  of  the  thing 
was  changed  from  my  Mss.  I  wished  it  set  up  like  my  Rocky  Mo[untain] 
paper  but  they  made  it  purely  Etonian,  &  employed  a  very  fine  type.  The 
extra  copies  that  I  requested  have  not  been  sent  to  me  &  if  they  are  as  bad 
[as]  I  fear  they  will  be  I  shall  destroy  the  whole"  (rodgers,  158). 


63.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topi  Engineers 
Washington  April  22  1843 
Sir 

Allow  me  to  call  your  attention  to  certain  vouchers  which  your 

accounts  require,  namely  the  vouchers  from  the  Chouteaus,  and  the 

one  of  the  last  payment  to  Mr.  Nicollet.  These  must  be  forwarded 

before  you  start  on  your  expedition  to  the  West.  Very  Respectfully 

Sir  Your  Obt.  Servt., 

J.  J.  Abert 

Col.  Corps  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  6:225). 


64.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  Topographical  Engs. 
Washington  April  26th  1843 
Sir 

It  appears  to  me  to  be  no  more  than  a  just  tribute  to  your  exertions 
that  I  should  express  my  great  personal  as  well  as  official  satisfaction 
with  your  report  which  has  now  been  printed,  reflecting  credit  alike 
upon  your  good  taste  as  well  as  intelligence.  It  is  by  efforts  like 
these  that  officers  elevate  their  own  character  while  they  also  render 
eminent  public  services;  and  while  they  also  contribute  to  the  stand- 
ing and  usefulness  of  their  particular  branch  of  service. 

Perseverance  in  the  course  you  have  commenced  cannot  fail  to 
lead  to  distinction  and  to  impress  you  with  the  gratifying  reflection 
that  while  your  labors  bring  credit  to  yourself  they  also  diffuse  it  to 
others.  Very  Respectfully  Your  Obt.  Servt., 

J.  J.  Abert 
CI.  C.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  6:227). 


342 


65.  Fremont  to  Stephen  Watts  Kearny 

[ca.  8  May  1843] 

REQUISITION  FOR  ORDNANCE  AND  ORDNANCE  STORES, 
FOR  AN  EXPEDITION  INTO  THE  OREGON  TERRITORY 


4-^ 

1 

E 

^ 

w 

« 

(1  1 

-a 

Oregon  Territory. 

ts! 

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c 
'a 

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c 

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Carriage  complet 
harness. 

O 

4—1 

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o 

o 

So 

Pounds  of  artille 
munition. 

3 

H 

Required  May  8,   1843 

1 

1 

4 

2 

33 

5 

500 

200 

Sir:  I  have  been  ordered  to  make  an  exploration,  military  and  geo- 
graphical, principally  to  connect,  on  the  line  of  communication 
usually  travelled,  the  frontiers  of  Missouri  with  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia.  In  the  course  of  the  service  I  shall  be  led  into  countries  in- 
habited by  hostile  Indians,  so  that  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  the 
performance  of  this  service  that  my  party,  consisting  of  about  thirty 
men,  be  furnished  with  every  means  of  defence  which  may  conduce 
to  its  safety. 

I  have  accordingly  made  the  above  requisition  for  the  necessary 
arms,  which  I  trust  you  will  be  able  to  issue. 

Respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  C.  Fremont, 
2d  Lieut.  Topographical  Engineers. 

Printed  in  "Message  of  the  President  communicating  the  correspondence  re 
the  mountain  howitzer  taken  by  Lieutenant  Fremont  on  the  expedition  to  the 
Oregon,"  Senate  Doc.  14,  28th  Cong.,  1st  sess..  Serial  432.  While  the  requisi- 
tion is  undated  it  must  have  been  near  8  May,  for  on  that  date,  Stephen  Watts 
Kearny  (1794-1848),  who  was  in  command  of  the  Third  Military  Depart- 
ment with  headquarters  at  Jefferson  Barracks,  near  St.  Louis,  and  who  was 
a  friend  of  the  Benton  family,  ordered  Capt.  William  H.  Bell,  commanding 
the  St.  Louis  Arsenal,  to  issue  the  requisition  as  Fremont  was  "to  leave 
to-morrow  and  therefore  has  not  time  to  hear  from  Washington."  He  assured 


343 


Bell  that  he  (Kearny)  assumed  "the  whole  responsibility."  Bell  obeyed  the 
"positive  order"  reluctantly  and  two  days  later  wrote  his  superior  in  the 
Ordnance  Office  in  Washington,  Lieut.  Col.  George  Talcott,  and  asked  for  his 
sanction  "to  this  issue"  and  noted  that  "if  in  this  matter  I  have  erred,  I  hope 
the  colonel  will  perceive  that  it  has  been  in  consequence  of  being  placed  in  a 
dilemma  of  some  difficulty  and  that  it  has  been  from  a  want  of  anything 
but  a  respect  for  the  order  and  regulations  of  my  department." 


66.  P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company 
to  Employees  of  the  Company 

Saint  Louis  10  May  1843 
To  ANY  Gentlemen  associated  with  our  House  or 

OTHER  person  OR  PERSONS  IN  OUR  EMPLOYMENT 

This  will  be  presented  by  Lieut.  }.  C.  Fremont  of  the  U.  S.  Top- 
ographical Engineers  on  a  tour  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  in  the  service  of 
the  Government  whom  we  beg  to  recommend  in  a  particular  man- 
ner to  your  kindness  &  attention — and  to  whom  we  request  you  will 
extend  such  aid  &  assistance  as  may  from  circumstances  be  nec- 
essary. 

As  the  pursuits  of  the  Gentleman  are  for  the  public  good,  we  trust 
you  will  not  hesitate  to  comply  with  his  wishes  &  cheerfully  attend 
to  the  wants  &  requirements  of  Lieut.  Fremont  in  case  of  need.  Very 
truly  yours  &c. 

P.  Choteau  Junr.  &  Co. 

ALS,  RC  (CLSM). 


67.   J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topogl  Engineers 
Washington  May  15th  1843 
Sm 

Understanding  that  you  are  probably  yet  at  St.  Louis,  I  must  call 
your  attention  to  my  letter  of  the  22d  ulto.  in  reference  to  certain 
vouchers  &  again  to  repeat  the  injunction  of  this  office  in  reference 

344 


to  the  limit  of  the  expenditures  of  your  expedition,  as  I  understand 
from  good  authority  that  this  amount  will  be  sufficient.  Very  Re- 
spectfully Your  Obt.  Servt., 


J.  }.  Abert 
Col.  Corps  T.  E. 


Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  6:266). 


68.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Duplicate  to  Fort  Leavenworth 

Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington,  May  22d.  1843 
Sir. 

From  the  reports  which  have  reached  the  Bureau  in  reference  to 
the  arrangements  which  you  are  making  for  the  expedition  to  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  I  fear  that  the  discretion  and  thought  which 
marked  your  first  expedition  will  be  found  much  wanting  in  the 
second.^ 

The  limit  placed  upon  your  expenditures  by  the  orders  of  this 
office,  sufficiently  indicated  the  kind  of  expedition  which  the  De- 
partment was  willing  to  authorize.  But  if  reports  be  true  you  will 
much  exceed  this  amount,  the  consequences  of  which  will  be  to 
involve  yourself  in  the  most  serious  difficulties. 

I  hear  also  that  among  other  things,  you  have  been  calling  upon 
the  Ordnance  Department  for  a  Howitzer.  Now  Sir  what  authority 
had  you  to  make  any  such  requisition,  and  of  what  use  can  such  a 
piece  be  in  the  execution  of  your  duties.  Where  is  your  right  to  in- 
crease your  party  in  the  numbers  &  expense,  which  the  management 
and  preservation  of  such  a  piece  require.  If  the  condition  of  the 
Indians  in  the  mountains  is  such  as  to  require  your  party  to  be  so 
warlike  in  its  equipment  it  is  clear  that  the  only  objects  of  your 
expedition  geographical  information  cannot  be  obtained. 

The  object  of  the  Department  was  a  peaceable  expedition,  similar 
to  the  one  of  last  year,  an  expedition  to  gather  scientific  knowledge. 
If  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  the  condition  of  the  country  will 
not  admit  of  the  safe  management  of  such  an  expedition,  and  of  course 
will  not  admit  of  the  only  objects  for  the  accomplishment  of  which 

345 


the  expedition  was  planned,  you  will  immediately  desist  in  its  fur- 
ther prosecution  and  report  to  this  office.^  Very  Respectfully  Your 
Obt.  Servt., 

J.  J.  Abert 
Col.  Corps  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  6:279-80). 

1.  Captain  Bell's  letter,  with  copies  of  Fremont's  requisition  (see  Doc.  No. 
65)  and  Kearny's  order,  had  reached  Washington  and  had  been  laid  before 
James  M.  Porter,  the  Secretary  of  War  ad  interim,  who,  in  turn  referred  them 
to  Abert.  And  when  Abert  in  effect  replied  that  small  arms — but  not  the 
howitzer — were  consistent  with  JCF's  order  for  a  peaceful  geographical  survey, 
the  Secretary  of  War  wrote:  "This  whole  proceeding  appears  to  have  been 
singularly  irregular.  If  the  party  of  the  topographical  corps  needed  arms,  they 
should  have  applied  through  the  regular  channels,  and  in  season.  Putting  oflf 
the  application  to  the  last  hour  was  ill-advised,  and  the  consequences  should 
have  been  visited  upon  those  in  fault.  Order,  regularity,  and  system,  must  be 
preserved,  and  the  commandant  of  the  department  should  not  have  required, 
and  officers  of  the  ordnance  should  never  have  issued,  public  property  in  the 
irregular  manner  in  which  this  was  done.  I  cannot  sanction  the  proceeding." 
See  "Message  of  the  President  communicating  the  correspondence  re  the 
mountain  howitzer  taken  by  Lieutenant  Fremont  on  the  expedition  to  the 
Oregon,"  Senate  Doc.  14,  28th  Cong.,  1st  sess..  Serial  432. 

2.  Abert's  letter  reached  St.  Louis  after  JCF's  departure  for  the  West, 
though  later  JBF  would  have  us  believe  that  she  suppressed  the  letter  and 
dramatically  hurried  her  husband's  departure  to  prevent  his  recall  by  sinister 
forces.  See  her  article,  "The  Origin  of  the  Fremont  Expeditions,"  Century 
Magazine,  61  (1891): 768-69,  and  a  fragmentary  draft  of  her  unpublished 
memoirs  in  the  Fremont  Papers,  CU-B.  For  a  treatment  of  the  misrepresenta- 
tion of  Abert's  letter,  see  jackson  [2]. 


69.  George  Engelmann  to  Asa  Gray 

St.  Louis  June  4th  1843. 
My  Dear  Doctor, 

•  •  •  • 

Fremont  was  here  beginning  of  May  for  nearly  2  weeks  and  I  as- 
sisted him  in  his  preparations  and  gave  him  instructions  for  geologi- 
cal &  botanical  researches  and  collections.  He  will  if  possible  ascend 
the  Arkansas  to  its  sources,  pass  over  to  Lake  Bonneville  and  then  to 
the  Columbia.  He  said  he  was  not  authorized  to  take  any  botanist 
with  him;  but  Stewart^  has  taken  besides  Geyer  a  gardner  and  a 

346 


"German  Scientific  gentleman"  with  him,  who  says  he  is  also  a 
botanist  &  geologist — we  will  see  what  they  do.^  I  have  no  doubt 
Geyer  will  do  more  than  all  the  others  together. 

With  a  genus  for  Geyer  &  Lindheimer  we  ought  to  wait  I  think 
till  they  send  one  themselves,  it  will  be  more  gratifying  then. 


Yours  Entirely, 

George  Engelmann 

ALS,  RC  (MH-G).  Addressed,  "Prof.  Asa  Gray,  Cambridge,  Mass." 

1.  Sir  William  Drummond  Stewart  (1795-1871),  born  in  Scodand,  had 
come  to  America  in  search  of  excitement  and  adventure  as  early  as  1832,  and 
made  several  journeys  into  the  wilderness  beyond  the  Missouri  River.  Alfred 
Jacob  Miller,  a  young  American  artist,  went  with  him  on  an  1837  trip.  John 
James  Audubon  was  invited  to  join  the  1843  jaunt  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  but 
declined,  as  he  had  already  made  arrangements  to  travel  far  up  the  Missouri 
in  a  boat  belonging  to  the  American  Fur  Company.  But,  as  Engelmann  notes, 
a  number  of  scientists  did  join  the  expedition  (porter  &  davenport). 

2.  The  gardener  who  joined  Sir  William's  expedition  was  Friedrich  George 
Jacob  Liiders  (1813-1904),  from  Hamburg.  As  JCF  notes  later,  Liiders  lost 
the  products  of  his  diligent  labor  in  the  graveyard  of  the  Columbia  (Doc.  No. 
137,  p.  571),  but  through  the  kind  assistance  of  the  officers  at  Fort  Van- 
couver he  was  able  to  sail  for  Hamburg  in  Feb.  1844.  Before  the  year  was 
over  he  had  returned  with  a  bride  to  St.  Louis  where  he  lived  until  1851. 
After  that  time  he  lived  in  Sauk  County,  near  Sauk  City,  Wis.,  where  he 
pursued  the  occupations  of  gardener  and  florist  (porter  &  davenport,  216; 
HAsKiNs).  Besides  Geyer  and  Liiders,  two  other  plant  collectors  were  attached 
to  Sir  William's  expedition:  Alexander  Gordon,  a  Scotsman  who  had  long 
been  resident  in  America,  and  who  also  lost  a  large  part  of  his  collection  by 
shipwreck  soon  after  his  embarkation  at  New  Orleans  for  England,  and 
Karl  Friedrich  Mersch.  Mersch  (b.  1810)  had  come  to  America  in  1837  from 
a  Luxemburg  professorship  of  chemistry,  and  remained  until  1870  (mc- 
kelvey,  785-87,  818-23).  Joseph  Burke  was  collecting  for  the  Earl  of  Derby 
and  William  Jackson  Hooker,  though  he  seems  to  have  traveled  with  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company's  traders  for  the  most  part  (mc  kelvey,  792-817). 


70.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Robert  Campbell 


Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington  June  22d  1843. 


Sir 


Your  letter  of  the  12th  instant  has  been  duly  received. 

In  one  from  Lieut.  Freemont  dated  the  12th  of  May,  he  says  "I 

347 


have  made  a  portion  of  my  purchases  at  a  credit  of  sixty  days  and 
obtained  a  cash  advance  of  3000  dollars.  Robert  Campbell  Esq.  of 
this  place  has  been  my  endorser  on  this  occasion  &  I  have  engaged 
that  the  funds  which  you  have  appropriated  to  this  service  and  of 
which  there  remained  to  be  drawn  between  Six  &  seven  thousand 
dollars  which  the  law  permits  to  be  drawn  from  &  after  the  30th 
of  June." 

There  is  a  singular  irregularity  in  this  method  of  doing  business, 
which  I  feel  the  less  disposed  to  excuse  as  Lieut.  Freemont  had  been 
so  frequently  admonished  of  the  necessity  of  great  exactness  &  atten- 
tion in  the  expenditure  of  public  money,  and  also  because  it  seems 
to  me  that  Lieut.  Freemont  had  time  to  consult  the  Bureau  &  to 
receive  its  written  advice  &  directions. 

I  fully  appreciate  the  enthusiasm  with  which  he  encounters  these 
hazardous  expeditions,  and  readily  acknowledge  the  merit  which 
attaches  itself  to  him,  for  his  management  of  the  last,  yet  these  con- 
siderations do  not  relieve  him  from  that  exact  accountability  for 
expenditures  required  by  the  accountant  officers,  nor  do  they  relieve 
either  himself  or  this  Bureau  from  the  embarrassments  consequent 
upon  his  irregular  course  in  this  respect.  There  are  certain  well 
known  regulations  for  such  cases,  the  neglect  of  which  make  serious 
difficulties. 

For  the  3000  dollars  of  Cash  advanced  for  which  you  are  ac- 
countable, a  requisition  will  be  in  due  time  be  made  out  &  transmitted 
to  you.  But  I  do  not  see  how  the  amount  of  the  purchases  can  be 
forwarded.  Were  you  aware  of  the  restrictions  upon  the  sending  of 
public  money  to  any  one,  you  would  be  conscious  of  the  embarrass- 
ments which  the  circumstances  of  this  case  create. 

The  requisition  for  the  above  amount  cannot  be  made  till  after 
the  1st  July.  In  addition  to  this  cash  advance,  if  you  will  please  to 
forward  the  Bills  of  Articles  purchased,  we  will  see  what  further 
can  be  done.  Very  Respectfully  Your  Obt.  Servt., 

J.  J.  Abert 
Col.  Corps  T.  E. 


Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  6:317-18).  The  letter  was  sent  to  St.  Louis.  Scottish- 
born  Robert  Campbell  (1804-79)  came  to  America  in  1822,  and  soon  became 
active  in  the  fur  trade  from  which  he  acquired  a  small  fortune  and  a  reputa- 


348 


tion  of  straightforward  dealing.  After  1835,  he  engaged  in  mercantile  and 
banking  pursuits  in  St.  Louis,  became  an  extensive  owner  of  real  estate,  and 
one  of  the  chief  suppliers  of  cash  and  equipment  for  JCF's  second  and  third 
expeditions  (scharf,  1:369-72). 


71.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Jessie  Benton  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington  June  23.  1843 
Madam: 

I  was  duly  honored  by  your  letter  of  the  25th  of  May.^  The  vouch- 
ers from  Mr.  Chouteau  and  Mr.  Nicollet  have  been  received. 

Our  fears  had  been  excited  by  reports  of  Lieut.  Freemont['s] 
arrangements  for  his  second  expedition,  which  from  matter  made 
known  to  the  office,  looked  more  to  military  than  to  scientific  re- 
sults, hence  my  letter  of  the  22d  May  which  you  have  no  doubt 
seen. 

We  could  not  authorize  a  military  expedition  under  the  appropri- 
ation for  the  Survey,  and  if  the  danger  apprehended  from  the  In- 
dians were  such  that  a  peaceable  scientific  expedition  could  not  be 
prosecuted  it  was  clearly  our  duty  to  avoid  changing  the  one 
contemplated  to  an  expedition  of  a  military  character. 

But  we  hope  that  our  fears  have  been  unnecessarily  excited,  and 
that  this  second  expedition  will  add  to  the  reputation  already  ac- 
quired by  Lt.  Freemont  in  his  first.  Believe  me  to  be  with  great 
respect  Madam  Your  Obt.  Servt., 

J.  J.  Abert 

Col.  Corps  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  6:318-19).  This  letter  does  not  reflect  hostility  toward 
the  Fremonts  and  does  not  indicate  that  Abert  believed  JCF  to  be  on  the 
road  to  Washington  to  explain  his  conduct.  And  certainly  no  officer  was 
appointed  to  proceed  to  the  frontier  to  take  the  command  from  JCF. 

1.  JBF's  letter,  registered  but  not  found,  seems  merely  to  have  stated  that 
she  had  forwarded  letters  from  JCF  to  the  Topographical  Bureau  and  would 
communicate  such  information  as  might  reach  her  in  relation  to  the  expedition 
to  the  Rocky  Mountains. 


349 


72.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Robert  Campbell 

Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington  July  3.  1843 

Sir: 

I  have  to  inform  you  that  a  requisition  has  been  this  day  made  in 
your  favor  for  three  Thousand  dollars  to  meet  the  payment  of  the 
loan  obtained  by  Lieut.  Fremont,  and  for  which  you  are  responsible. 

Very  Respectfully  Your  Obt.  Servt. 

J.  }.  Abert 
Col.  Corps  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  6:330).  On  13  July,  probably  before  the  receipt  of  this 
3  July  letter  of  Abert's,  Campbell  wrote  to  say  that  funds  to  meet  his  endorse- 
ments for  Fremont  had  not  reached  St.  Louis,  and  that  he  was  bringing 
vouchers  to  Washington  to  show  his  advances  (entry  in  Register  of  Letters 
Received). 


73.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Thomas  H.  Benton 


Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington  July  10th  1843 
Sir: 

I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  letter  of  the 
27th  June.' 

The  error  of  Lieut.  Fremont,  was  that  he  kept  the  authority  to 
which  he  was  responsible,  and  from  which  he  could  have  sought 
advice  and  directions,  and  for  which  he  had  time,  entirely  unin- 
formed of  his  proceedings,  wants  or  views. 

No  report  whatever  having  been  received  from  him,  from  the  day 
he  left  this  place  for  New  York,  during  his  stay  here  on  his  return, 
or  while  at  St.  Louis,  except  his  letter  of  the  12th  May  upon  the  eve 
of  his  departure.  Now  as  the  equipment  of  his  party  contemplated 
a  serious  change  in  the  character  of  the  expedition  under  his  com- 
mand, one  that  might  involve  the  Government  in  Indian  hostility,  I 
have  no  doubt  you  will  admit  it  to  have  been  a  negligence  de- 

350 


serving  some  reproof,  that  he  did  not  seek  the  advice  and  orders  of 
the  Department.  The  Department  might  under  such  anticipations 
have  prohibited  the  expedition,  or  it  might  have  made  it  adequate 
successfully  to  have  encountered  the  contemplated  emergency. 

The  expedition  contemplates  Indian  hostilities,  it  may  occasion 
them;  need  I  do  more  under  such  a  view  than  to  appeal  to  your 
Known  reputation  for  discipline  when  in  the  Army,  and  to  your  ex- 
perience in  public  affairs,  for  justifying  the  opinion  that  Lieut. 
Fremont  ought  to  have  made  a  timely  report  of  Circumstances,  and 
to  have  sought  the  advice  and  orders  of  the  Department. 

When  the  requisitions  of  Lieut.  Freemont  upon  the  Ordnance 
Department  were  handed  for  approval,  the  course  pursued  by  him, 
and  the  equipment  were  unusual;  were  without  reasons  to  sustain 
them,  and  I  was  placed  in  the  condition  of  recommending  the  ap- 
proval of  what  had  not  been  authorized  or  its  necessity  shown,  or  of 
seriously  embarassing  [sic]  a  young  (and  I  admit  highly  promis- 
ing) officer  of  my  Corps.  Under  such  circumstances  I  went  to  the 
utmost  limit  of  my  judgment,  waiving  all  reasoning  on  account  of 
the  irregularity  and  neglects  of  the  case,  I  recommended  the  ap- 
proval of  his  requisitions  for  small  arms  and  ammunition  for  them, 
as  these  were  essential  under  any  character  of  the  expedition,  but  I 
could  not  and  did  not  recommend  the  approval  of  his  requisition 
for  the  Howitzer.  It  appeared  to  me  not  only  a  useless,  but  an  em- 
barrassing weapon  to  such  an  expedition,  requiring  well  instructed 
men  for  its  Management,  and  a  serious  increase  of  means  for  its 
transportation;  and  it  will  be  a  more  favorable  result  than  I  antici- 
pate if  the  mere  embarassments  from  transportation  do  not  oblige 
him  to  leave  it  and  its  equipment  at  the  first  trading  post  at  which 
he  shall  arrive. 

Such  an  equipment  had  also  the  aspect  of  a  hostile  expedition, 
which  neither  the  law  under  which  Lieut.  Freemont  acted,  or  his 
orders  had  authorized,  and  to  meet  which  the  organization  of  his 
expedition  was  not  adapted,  nor  to  authorize  which  had  the  War 
Department  been  consulted.  Certainly  it  seems  to  me  when  an  In- 
dian War  may  be  the  consequence  of  an  expedition,  the  officer  who 
starts  it  cannot  be  blameless,  in  omitting  a  reference  of  all  circum- 
stances to  the  War  Department,  &  in  omitting  a  submission  to  its 
decision  and  orders. 

But  the  only  consequence  to  Lieut.  Freemont,  by  the  disapproval 
of  his  requisition  for  the  Howitzer,  will  be  that  he  will  be  held 

351 


accountable  for  its  return.  There  is  no  other  consequence  to  be 
apprehended.  Of  this  I  am  allowed  to  make  you  the  assurance  of  the 
War  Department,  which  under  the  regulations  is  obliged  to  hold 
Lieut.  Freemont,  as  it  would  any  other  officer,  responsible  for  the 
piece  and  its  equipment.  Very  Respectfully  Sir  Your  Obt.  Servt., 

J.  J.  Abert 
Col.  Corps  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  6:341-43). 

1.  Benton,  the  chairman  of  the  powerful  Senate  Committee  on  Military 
Affairs,  was  absent  from  St.  Louis  when  Abert's  22  May  letter  arrived,  but 
by  27  June  he  had  returned  and  seen  the  letter  censuring  his  son-in-law. 
While  the  letter  he  wrote  Abert  on  that  day  has  not  been  found,  it  is  entered 
in  the  Register  of  Letters  Received  in  the  Office  of  the  Corps  of  Engineers. 
The  clerk  who  made  the  entry,  in  describing  the  contents  of  the  letter,  wrote 
that  Benton  "regrets  he  [Fremont]  should  have  been  censured  for  the  course 
he  pursued  in  fitting  out  his  expedition."  In  Thirty  Years'  View,  2:579-80, 
Benton  said  he  wrote  "to  the  department  condemning  the  recall,  repulsing  the 
reprimand  which  had  been  lavished  upon  Fremont,  and  demanding  a  court- 
martial  for  him  when  he  should  return." 


74.  Jessie  Benton  Fremont  to  Adelaide  Talbot 

Saint  Louis,  Sep.  16th.  1843 
My  dear  Madam, 

Knowing  the  anxiety  you  must  feel  on  account  of  your  son,  I 
take  great  pleasure  in  sending  you  the  news  which  we  received  a 
few  days  since  from  the  party.  They  had  gotten  on  very  prosper- 
ously as  late  as  the  26th  of  June,  at  which  time  Mr.  Fremont  found 
an  opportunity  to  write  by  two  Indians  who  brought  the  letter  in. 
Twenty  five  of  the  party  were  to  take  one  route  while  the  remaining 
fifteen  crossed  through  the  Mexican  territory.  He  does  not  say  in 
which  division  your  son  has  been  placed,  but  I  assume  he  is  with  Mr. 
Fremont  himself,  as,  knowing  him  to  be  an  only  son  he  was  very 
anxious  to  bring  him  home  to  you  in  safety.  By  the  middle  or  end  of 
December  they  expect  to  be  in  this  place  &  at  the  New  Year's  rejoicings 
Mr.  Talbot  will  I  hope  be  again  with  you.  There  are  no  means  of 
communication  with  the  party  &  I  have  therefore  retained  all  the 
letters  for  Mr.  Talbot  which  I  will  give  to  him  on  his  return.  If  you 

352 


see  our  friend  Dr.  Martin^  will  you  tell  him  that  you  heard  from  us 
&  that  all  the  family  beg  to  be  remembered  to  him  ? 

Should  any  other  intelligence  be  had  of  our  voyageurs  I  will  do 
myself  the  pleasure  of  communicating  it  to  you  instantly.  Very  re- 
spectfully yours, 

Jessie  B.  Fremont 

ALS,  RC  (DLC— Talbot  Papers).  Addressed,  "Mrs.  Talbot,  F.  Street 
Washington  City  D.C."  Adelaide  Talbot,  the  widow  of  Isham  Talbot,  who 
had  served  as  U.S.  senator  from  Kentucky,  1815-25,  was  the  mother  of  young 
Theodore  Talbot,  who  accompanied  JCF  as  an  aide  on  both  the  second  and 
third  expeditions.  Many  of  the  expense  vouchers  are  in  Talbot's  hand  and 
signatures  are  often  witnessed  by  him.  He  also  kept  a  journal  (ed.  by  Charles 
H.  Carey)  of  the  second  expedition  as  far  as  Fort  Boise,  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company's  post  on  the  Snake  River.  The  letters  to  his  mother  and  sister  Mary 
provide  an  interesting  source  of  information  for  the  third  expedition.  When 
that  expedition  became  involved  in  California  affairs,  Talbot  served  as  lieu- 
tenant adjutant  in  the  California  Battalion,  and  after  his  discharge  he  re- 
enlisted  as  an  officer  in  the  regular  Army,  which  he  then  made  his  career. 

1.  Dr.  J.  L.  Martin  was  employed  for  several  months  by  the  Topographical 
Bureau  in  translating,  and  preparing  for  the  press,  J.  N.  Nicollet's  unfinished 
notes  on  Indian  matters  (see  Abert  to  Martin,  17  Oct.  1843,  Lbk,  DNA-77, 
6:463;  Abert  to  Martin,  27  April  1844,  and  Abert  to  P.  Wagner,  27  April 
1844,7:224-25). 


75.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Robert  Campbell 

Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington  September  18th  1843 
Sir 

I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  letter  of  the 
8th  inst.^  enclosing  a  copy  of  one  received  by  you  from  Lt.  Fremont, 
and  to  inform  you  that  a  requisition  has  been  this  day  made  in  your 
favor  for  Eight  hundred  and  three  ^Yioo  dollars,  to  meet  the  pay- 
ment of  the  several  drafts  drawn  upon  you  by  that  officer.  Very 
Respectfully  Sir  Your  Obt.  Servt. 

J.  J.  Abert 
Col.  Corps  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  6:430). 

1.  Registered  but  not  found.  The  clerk's  entry  indicates  the  St.  Louis  mer- 
chant had  requested  that  a  draft  for  $803.14  on  New  York  or  Philadelphia  be 
remitted  to  him. 


353 


l(i.  Fremont  to  J.  J.  Abert 

$182.31 

Wascopam,  Oregon  Territory 
Novem:  24th.  1843 
Sir, 

Ten  days  after  sight,  please  pay  to  the  order  of  Dr.  Marcus  Whit- 
man, the  sum  of  one  hundred  and  eighty-two  dollars  and  thirty-one 
cents,  for  supplies  furnished  to  the  Exploring  party  under  my  com- 
mand. Very  Respectfully  Sir,  Your  Obedt.  Servt., 

J.  Charles  Fremont 
Lt.  Topi.  Engineers. 

ALS,  RC  (CLSM).  Endorsed  on  the  back:  "Oregon  1843.  Pay  the  within 
Henry  Hill  Treasurer  of  the  A[merican]  B[oard]  Ch[ristian]  M[issions]. 
Marcus  Whitman.  Pay  J.  T.  Smith  &  Co.  on  order  H.  Hill  Treasr.  Pay  Cor- 
coran &  Riggs  on  order  John  T.  Smith  &  Co,  [.  .  .]." 

Although  JCF  does  not  mention  having  seen  Marcus  Whitman  at  the 
Dalles  (also  called  Wascopam)  before  turning  homeward  on  25  Nov.  (see 
Doc.  No.  137,  pp.  552-77),  this  financial  voucher  indicates  that  he  had  seen  him 
and  had  purchased  supplies  from  him.  In  his  diary,  Preuss  writes:  "Proposals 
for  the  return  journey:  advice  of  Dr.  Whitman- — via  Mexico  and  Vera  Cruz. 
Fitzpatrick — via  so-called  California  to  Santa  Fe.  Fremont's  obstinacy — north 
of  Salt  Lake,  keeping  almost  to  the  old  trail.  I  wonder  how  we  shall  get 
through"  (preuss,  100). 


77.  Jessie  Benton  Fremont  to  Adelaide  Talbot 

St.  Louis  Mri.  Dec.  3d.  1843. 
My  dear  Madam, 

When  I  wrote  to  you  a  few  days  since  I  had  not  anticipated  having 
the  pleasure  of  sending  you  any  news  of  our  travellers  until  their  ar- 
rival here;  but  last  night  I  saw  one  of  the  party  who  had  left  them  at 
Fort  Hall  on  the  27th  of  September.  He  had  a  packet  of  letters  and 
among  them  one  for  yourself  but  in  swimming  a  river  they  were  lost 
&  consequently  the  gratification  of  getting  news  from  Mr.  Talbot  will 
be  denied  you.  The  man  gave  me  many  details  of  the  Summer's 
campaign  &  a  particular  account  of  your  son's  health.  He  says  he  is 

354 


"fat  stout  &  all  the  time  in  a  good  humour" — and  has  not  been  sick  an 
hour  since  they  left  the  settlements.  Mr.  Fremont  would  have  ac- 
complished his  survey  in  a  week  after  [Henry]  Lee  left,  &  by  the 
middle  of  October,  would  be  making  his  way  homeward,  and  in  a 
letter  received  by  Mr.  Campbell  of  this  place.  Mr.  Fremont  says  that 
early  in  January  1844,  he  will  be  here.  They  had  had  perfect  success 
in  all  their  undertakings  but  when  they  arrived  at  Fort  Hall  Mr. 
Fremont  found  he  could  not  procure  provisions  enough  &  therefore 
gave  permission  to  ten  of  the  least  useful  of  the  party  to  return^ — to 
one  of  these  ten  our  letters  were  given  &  by  him  lost — one  or  two 
others  were  entrusted  to  a  different  man  &  by  him  brought  in  safely. 
You  will  feel  their  loss  more  than  I  for  I  have  seen  the  living  witness 
who  testified  to  their  health  &  good  progress — but  I  hope  it  will  be  a 
comfort  to  you  even  though  it  comes  at  second  hand.  Very  respect- 
fully yours, 

Jessie  B.  Fremont. 

ALS,  RC  (DLC— Talbot  Papers). 

1.  Actually  ten  voyageurs  returned  with  Henry  Lee:  Michael  Creely,  John 
A.  Campbell,  William  Creuss,  Clinton  De  Forest,  Basil  Lajeunesse,  Fran- 
cois Kaskaskai  Lajeunesse,  Alexis  Perrault,  Baptiste  Tesson,  Auguste  Vas- 
quez,  and  Patrick  White.  The  Daily  National  Intelligencer,  15  Dec.  1843, 
citing  the  St.  Louis  Gazette  as  its  source  of  information,  reported  that  ten  men 
had  arrived  in  St.  Louis  on  Sunday,  30  Nov.,  and  brought  a  "very  unfavor- 
able account  of  their  expedition,  having  been  compelled  for  a  portion  of  the 
time  to  subsist  on  horseflesh"  and  that  the  party  had  not  been  molested  by  the 
Indians,  "except  at  the  head  of  the  North  Fork,  on  which  occasion  the  sight 
of  a  twelve-pound  howitzer  soon  caused  the  savages  to  desist  from  all  hostile 
movements."  The  vouchers  reveal  that  each  was  paid  $90.90  for  his  services  as 
a  voyageur  or  $.45  per  day  for  202  days  from  3  May  to  20  Nov.  1843,  except 
the  Lajeunesse  brothers,  who  received  slightly  higher  rates  of  compensation. 
All  acknowledged  receivmg  payment  at  Fort  Hall  on  20  Sept.,  an  indication 
that  JCF  expected  the  return  trip  to  take  approximately  two  months. 


78.  }.  J.  Abert  to  Robert  Campbell 


Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington  December  13.  1843. 


Sir 


I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  letter  of  the 
2d.  inst.^  and  to  inform  you  that  a  requisition  has  been  this  day  made 


355 


in  your  favor  for  five  hundred  and  thirty  three  ^^oo  dollars,  to 
meet  the  advances  made  by  you  on  account  of  the  expedition  under 
Lieut.  Fremont.  Very  Respectfully  Sir  Your  Obt.  Servt. 

J.  J.  Abert 
Col.  Corps  T.  E. 

Lbk(DNA-77,  LS,7:65). 

1.  Campbell's  letter,  not  found,  enclosed  a  copy  of  a  letter  from  JCF,  who 
had  drawn  upon  him  for  funds  to  pay  part  of  the  men  of  the  Oregon  expedi- 
tion, and  requested  that  the  government  remit  the  funds. 


79.  Jessie  Benton  Fremont  to  Adelaide  Talbot 

Saint  Louis  Feby.  1st  1844. 

Your  letter  has  remained  unansw^ered  my  dear  Mrs.  Talbot  be- 
cause it  found  me  prostrated  by  sick  headaches  occasioned  as  you 
w^ill  at  once  conceive  by  "the  sickness  of  the  heart."  It  made  me  sorry 
to  see  the  note  to  your  son  for  he  is  not  here  yet — and  I  knew  that  little 
note  contained  the  welcome  home.  If  our  sorrows  could  be  alleviated 
by  knowing  that  others  had  as  great,  yours  my  dear  madam  would 
not  seem  so  insupportable — for  although  Theodore  is  an  only  son 
yet  you  have  another  child  &  she  is  with  you — whilst  my  poor 
mother  in  law  has  but  one  living  thing  to  love.  She  says  "Charles  is 
all  that  the  grave  has  left  me" — and  should  anything  happen  to  him 
how  utterly  desolate  must  she  be ;  for  your  own  heart  would  tell  you 
that  no  daughter  in  law  could  replace  your  son,  however  much  she 
might  love  you — and  Mr.  Fremont's  mother  has  not  even  the  comfort 
of  having  me  with  her  so  you  are  not  the  worst  off,  although  I  will 
admit  that  you  have  grief  &  anxiety  enough,  &  the  absence  of  an  only 
son  is  cause  sufficient  for  it.  My  own  Mother  says  I  am  too  young  & 
too  perfectly  healthy  to  know  all  the  miseries  that  attend  a  separation, 
&  that  if  I  were  older  and  in  a  nervous  state  of  health  this  incessant 
disappointment  would  wear  me  out.  It  is  very  fortunate  for  us  all 
that  I  have  elastic  spirits  for  being  here  I  hold  a  very  responsible  place 
&  the  letters  I  write  my  Mother  &  yourself  are  I  know  guides  to  your 
thoughts  &  exert  an  influence  over  your  feelings. 

For  the  last  two  weeks  I  had  become  so  excited  &  unhappy  for 

356 


every  day  every  hour  indeed  brought  a  fresh  disappointment,  that 
not  then  would  I  have  written  to  you.  But  last  night  Mr.  Campbell, 
who  has  been  to  Oregon  himself  twenty  years  ago  nearly,  when 
every  difficulty  was  greater  than  now,  traced  out  on  the  map  Mr. 
Fremonts  route  &  gave  me  the  date  of  his  probable  arrival  at  each 
place,  and  satisfied  me  that  he  would  be  here  in  February.  As  Mr. 
Campbell  says,  "They  may  have  a  tedious  journey  but  I  assure  not  a 
dangerous  one."  If  you  knew  Mr.  Campbell  you  would  feel  as  quiet 
as  I  do — for  he  is  an  honest  man  one  who  in  word  nor  deed  is  un- 
true. Ma  says,  I  believe,  because  it  is  what  I  want  to  hear,  and  al- 
though I  do  not  think  so  yet  perhaps  it  is  the  case.  I  do  not  tell  you 
then  my  dear  Mrs.  Talbot  to  believe  as  I  do  in  Mr.  Campbell,  but  it 
would  be  a  very  happy  thing  for  you  if  you  could— it  is  so  pleasant 
to  rely  implicitly  on  anyone,  especially  if  they  tell  you  what  you  love 
to  hear.  So  this  morning  I  resolved  to  write  and  tell  you  all  he  had 
said  &  hope  it  would  have  its  influence  in  tranquilizing  your  feelings. 
You  only  look  for  your  son  at  regular  periods  of  the  day— you  cannot 
estimate  that  comfort  until  you  are  situated  as  I  am.  Mr.  Fremont 
may  come  in  any  conveyance  but  a  steam  car  &  from  the  moment  I 
open  my  eyes  in  the  morning  until  I  am  asleep  again  I  look  for  him. 
I  hurry  home  from  a  visit  and  from  church  &  the  first  question  is 
"Has  he  come  ?"  Judge  then  how  the  ever  recurring  "no"  jars  on  my 
ear— it  is  worse  I  assure  you  than  it  can  be  to  you  to  see  "They  have 
not  arrived  yet"  in  the  beginning  of  every  letter  from  me.  Still  I 
have  the  hope  that  very  soon  I  shall  be  able  to  efface  all  those  feelings 
by  telling  you  "they  are  here  safe  and  well"  and  in  that  little  sentence 
will  be  healing  for  every  pain. 

If  it  is  not  asking  too  much,  will  you  write  to  me  again  ?  but  do  not 
tell  me  I  do  so  much  for  you— indeed  it  gratifies  me  to  write  much 
more  than  it  can  you  to  receive  them  and  if  I  give  you  an  hour  of 
comfort  I  feel  more  than  compensated.  Mother  desires  me  to  give 
her  kindest  regards  to  you  and  I  add  mine  for  your  daughter  whose 
health  is  I  hope  restored.  For  yourself  believe  me  dear  Madam  most 

sincerely  your  friend, 

Jessie  A.^  B.  Fremont 


ALS,  RC  (DLC— Talbot  Papers).  Addressed,  "Mrs.  Talbot,  F  Street, 
Washington  City,  D.C." 

1.  Jessie  rarely  included  in  her  signature  the  initial  of  her  middle  name 
"Anne,"  as  she  does  here. 

357 


80.  Jessie  Benton  Fremont  to  Adelaide  Talbot 

Saint  Louis  March  3d.  1844 

I  have  been  obHged  to  leave  your  letter  unanswered  for  some  days 
my  dear  Mrs.  Talbot  for  Mother  had  a  return  of  her  fall  attack  of 
chills  &  fever  &  for  ten  days  has  needed  such  constant  attention  that  I 
have  had  no  time  for  writing  except  to  give  Father  a  daily  bulletin. 
My  letter  giving  you  the  news  of  the  finding  of  Mr.  Fremont's 
[blan](\  has  reached  you  by  this  time  &  has  I  hope  given  you  the 
same  certainty  that  it  has  me — that  is,  that  with  his  jaded  animals  he 
has  not  ventured  to  travel  in  the  winter  but  made  a  comfortable 
camp  in  the  buffalo  country  &  gotten  through  the  worse  of  the 
winter  without  exposure.  Consequently  he  cannot  be  here  until  the 
middle  of  April.  I  have  sympathized  in  your  anxieties  for  your  son 
more  than  I  had  expressed  for  I  was  aware  before  they  left  the  fron- 
tier, of  Mr.  Talbot's  delicate  health.  Mr.  Fremont  sent  for  Sir  Wil- 
liam Stuart's  [Stewart's]  physician,  Dr.  Tighlman  [Tilghman],  to 
attend  Mr.  Talbot  &  kept  him  for  that  purpose  until  Sir  Wm.'s  party 
left.^  I  know  my  husband  would  have  mentioned  in  his  letter  from 
Oregon,  any  sickness  of  your  son's  for  every  one  written  from  the 
frontier  expressed  anxiety  as  to  the  result  of  the  experiment — for 
such  he  felt  it — &  the  responsibility  was  greater  as  the  Government 
allows  no  physician — they  are  to  do  or  die.  The  appropriations  are 
doled  out  from  the  Department  with  a  view  to  the  praise  of  Congress 
for  their  economy  &  not  with  any  regard  to  the  comfort  of  the  party. 
From  10  to  11  thousand  was  all  Col.  Abert  allowed  for  this  expedi- 
tion— an  expedition  to  consist  of  thirty  men  &  last  for  nine  months 
&  to  go  through  the  heart  of  a  hostile  country,  for  after  the  Sioux  & 
Blackfeet  are  passed  they  have  to  encounter  the  British  occupants  of 
Oregon  &  only  those  who  will  not  be  convinced  refuse  to  believe  that 
they  are  treacherous  and  would  willingly  assist  the  Indians  in  case 
of  difficulty.  And  yet  Mr,  Fremont  has  been  censured  by  Col.  Abert, 
Col.  Totten"  &  the  Secretary  at  War,  separately  &  collectively  for  ob- 
taining arms  from  the  arsenal  to  defend  himself,  and  the  arms 
charged  to  his  private  account.  Col.  Kearny  who  acted  like  a  gener- 
ous soldier  &  gentleman,  and  ordered  their  issue  has  also  been  censured 
by  Mr.  Porter,  who  I  am  rejoiced  to  see  was  rejected  contemp- 
tuously by  the  Senate.^  I  am  doing  what  you  apologized  for  my  dear 
Madam  but  when  I  think  of  the  injustice  done  my  husband  I  have 

358 


no  longer  patience  with  those  who  have  behaved  so  unjustly  towards 
him.  It  is  hard  for  a  man  to  leave  a  family  to  tremble  for  him  daily, 
&  receiving  no  reward  for  his  exertions  &  encounters  with  danger, 
but  the  approval  of  his  Colonel,  to  be  met  on  his  return  by  a  letter 
equally  wounding  to  him  &  disgraceful  to  the  writer.  It  makes  me 
sick  to  think  of  its  effect  upon  Mr.  Fremont  for  the  bitterest  lesson  in 
life  is  to  meet  with  such  miserable  behaviour  from  those  who  pro- 
fessed friendship.  You  must  pardon  me  for  occupying  your  time 
with  my  own  affairs  dear  Mrs.  Talbot  but  I  wish  you  who  have 
shewn  such  a  kind  interest  in  me  to  know  the  truth  when  you  will 
hear  Mr.  F.  blamed  for  being  displeased  with  his  Colonel.  As  it  is  a 
private  affair  I  have  no  right  perhaps  to  speak  of  it,  but  it  will  be 
public  when  he  returns.  Will  you  make  my  kindest  regards  to  your 
daughter.  I  hope  to  have  the  pleasure  of  making  her  acquaintance  in 
six  weeks.  As  for  yourself  I  feel  as  if  I  knew  you  well  already.  My 
poor  baby  has  taken  the  whooping  cough  &  will  need  all  my  time 
but  I  will  find  an  opportunity  to  answer  all  your  letters  for  they  are 
a  great  pleasure  to  me.  Very  sincerely  yours, 

Jessie  A.  B.  Fremont 

ALS,  RC  (DLC— Talbot  Papers).  Addressed. 

1.  Dr.  Stedman  Richard  Tilghman,  a  recent  graduate  of  the  Baltimore 
Medical  School,  was  traveling  with  Sir  William  Drummond  Stewart  on  his 
purely  adventurous  expedition  to  the  Wind  River  Mountains.  At  the  West- 
port  staging  area,  Stewart's  "Camp  William"  near  the  Shawnee  mission  was 
not  far  from  JCF's  own  camp.  It  was  believed  by  some  at  the  time  that 
Stewart  tried  to  persuade  JCF  to  accompany  him  as  far  as  the  Rockies  (porter 
&  DAVENPORT,  218).  Evcn  journalist  Matthew  C.  Field,  also  traveling  with 
Stewart,  believed  that  "young  Freemont"  was  going  with  them.  But  this 
would  have  been  poindess,  as  Stewart  was  virtually  duplicating  JCF's  route 
of  the  previous  year  (field,  15). 

2.  Col.  Joseph  Gilbert  Totten,  USMA  1805,  was  chief  engineer,  and  there- 
fore not  only  JCF's  but  also  Abert's  superior  officer.  He  seems  not  to  have 
sent  a  separate  letter  of  censure  to  JCF. 

3.  The  refusal  of  the  War  Department  to  sanction  JCF's  taking  of  the 
howitzer  was  now  public  information,  since  President  Tyler,  as  requested 
by  a  resolution  of  the  Senate  on  18  Dec.  1843  (initiated  by  Benton),  had  trans- 
mitted copies  of  the  interdepartmental  correspondence  on  the  howitzer  to  that 
body,  and  on  29  Dec.  the  Senate  had  ordered  the  correspondence  printed. 
Perhaps  this  played  some  part  in  the  Senate's  refusal  by  38  to  3  votes  to 
confirm  President  Tyler's  appointment  of  James  Madison  Porter  as  Secretary 
of  War.  Porter,  the  founder  of  Lafayette  College,  left  the  Cabinet  on  30  Jan. 
1844.  As  the  question  of  confirmation  was  considered  in  executive  sessions 
after  the  report  of  the  Senate  Committee  on  Military  Affairs,  of  which  Benton 
was  chairman,  no  debate  on  Porter  was  printed  (see  Journal  of  the  Executive 
Proceedings  of  the  Senate  of  the  United  States). 

359 


81.  Jessie  Benton  Fremont  to  Adelaide  Talbot 

Saint  Louis  March  24th.  1844. 

It  is  so  long  since  I  received  your  kind  letter  of  congratulation  on 
Father's  escape  my  dear  Mrs.  Talbot,  that  I  feel  ashamed  not  to  have 
answered  it.^  But  in  that  time  I  have  had  a  little  battle  in  my  mind 
and  it  has  not  been  decided  until  a  day  or  two  since— You  know  I 
had  made  my  plans  to  go  on  with  Mother,  but  as  the  time  drew  near 
to  leave  St.  Louis  I  felt  my  resolution  leaving  me  &  at  last  the  tempta- 
tion to  remain  became  so  great  that  like  many  a  better  &  wiser  per- 
son I  fell  before  its  force.  So  that  I  shall  not  have  the  pleasure  of 
seeing  you  as  soon  as  I  had  supposed  but  then  I  shall  see  your  son  the 
sooner  &  give  him  your  letters  &  tell  him  that  you  have  been  well 
during  the  winter.  All  the  mountaineers  agree  upon  the  last  of  April 
as  the  earliest  date  at  which  Mr.  Fremont  can  be  here,  as  he  can  then 
come  swiftly  &  pleasantly  by  water. 

After  Mother  leaves  I  shall  be  very  lonely  here  and  will  depend 
upon  you  dear  Madam  for  letters  to  shorten  the  time  of  waiting  for 
I  shall  feel  like  a  sentinel  on  the  look  out  until  Mr.  Fremont  returns 
— and  then  I  can  give  pleasure  to  you  in  return  for  your  kindness  to 
me.  Then  too  I  can  make  my  letters  more  agreeable  but  now  I  do 
believe  I  have  but  a  single  idea.  Our  friend  Dr.  Martin  has  a  great 
many  &  if  he  were  a  good  Christian  he  would  feel  it  a  charitable  act 
to  write  to  such  an  unfortunate  forlorn  person  as  I  will  soon  be;  I 
think  I  shall  have  to  resort  to  some  desperate  remedy  such  as  plain 
sewing  to  relieve  the  nervous  state  I  shall  fall  into. 

You  see  Mrs.  Talbot  I  have  written  you  a  letter  about  myself  &  you 
must  answer  in  the  same  way,  telling  how  you  feel  &  think  also. 
There  cannot  be  two  more  charm [ing]  subjects  although  it  might 
be  more  selon  les  regies  to  leave  such  speeches  to  others.  Make  mine 
&  Mother's  kindest  regards  to  your  daughter  &  receive  for  yourself 
Mother's  warmest  thanks  for  your  remembrance  of  &  feeling  for  her. 
As  she  leaves  in  three  days  she  has  no  time  to  write  but  desires  me 
to  say  for  her  that  she  was  much  gratified  by  your  writing  so  kindly. 
Yours  most  sincerely, 

Jessie  A.  B.  Fremont 


ALS,  RC  (DLC— Talbot  Papers).  Addressed. 

1.  Benton  was  one  of  the  dignitaries   aboard  the   U.S.S.  Princeton,  com- 

360 


manded  by  Robert  F.  Stockton,  which  took  a  Sunday  excursion  down  the 
Potomac  on  28  Feb.  1844.  There  was  exhibition  firing  of  a  new  cannon  which 
exploded  into  its  audience,  killing  Secretary  of  the  Navy  Thomas  Gilmer  and 
Secretary  of  State  Abel  Upshur.  Benton,  who  only  a  few  seconds  earlier  had 
moved  from  the  ranks  of  those  hit  by  flying  metal,  suffered  heavy  shock  and 
a  ruptured  eardrum  (smith,  193). 


82.  Jessie  Benton  Fremont  to  Adelaide  Talbot 


Saint  Louis,  June  15th  1844. 

You  must  think  it  very  strange  dear  Mrs.  Talbot  that  I  have  not 
yet  answ^ered  your  two  kind  letters  but  since  they  arrived  my  litde 
Lilly  has  been  very  sick,  and  I  myself  have  had  incessant  headaches 
for  the  last  three  weeks.  And  you  know  with  the  headache  and  a  sick 
child  nothing  can  be  done.  Lilly  is  well  again  now  &  although  I  have 
my  usual  pain  in  the  head  I  will  no  longer  defer  thanking  you  for 
your  kindness  in  writing  so  often  &  more  especially  for  the  copy  of 
the  remarks  in  the  English  work  you  mentioned.  Mr.  Fremont  will 
be  doubly  gratified  when  he  reads  them  for  neither  of  us  had  any 
claim  to  the  kindnesses  you  have  shewn  us — In  return  for  your  at- 
tention I  can  tell  you  some  little  news  of  our  party.  A  Mr.  Glasgow 
has  just  arrived  from  California.^  He  saw  Mr.  Fremont  early  in 
November  &  learned  from  him  that  he  was  to  winter  at  Fort  Hall. 
As  Mr.  Glasgow  came  in  by  the  Southern  route  he  of  course  arrived 
sooner  than  our  party  could  as  it  was  probably  to  return  by  the  Yel- 
lowstone. We  know  that  the  snows  in  the  mountains  are  breaking 
up,  for  the  rivers  above  are  all  rising  &  if  after  so  many  disappoint- 
ments you  can  still  hope,  then  look  for  their  being  here  the  first  of 
July — How  sorry  I  do  feel  that  neither  Mr.  Fremonts  mother  nor 
yourself  can  have  the  certainty  of  restored  happiness  as  soon  as  L  It 
will  seem  wrong  to  be  so  very  happy  whilst  you  are  still  in  trembling 
anxiety.  I  wish  I  had  Morse's  telegraph  for  that  once — it  would 
surely  be  a  better  use  than  disappointing  Presidential  candidates,  and 
bothering  the  country  about  the  Texas  Treaty. 

Nothing  but  the  wish  that  you  might  not  think  harshly  of  me 
for  not  having  written  before,  would  have  made  me  write  this  morn- 
ing, for  I  am  sure  my  dear  Mrs.  Talbot  that  you  will  find  difficulty  in 
reading  my  short  letter  &  nothing  to  reward  your  trouble  when  it  is 

361 


read.  Remember  however  that  it  is  a  hot  Saint  Louis  day.  I  have  the 
headache  &  to  add  to  my  troubles  my  pen  is  very  contrary  &  refuses 
to  write  as  I  wish  it.  I  will  make  a  second  &  hope  more  creditable 
effort  next  week  &  perhaps  I  may  by  that  time  have  some  news  from 
the  mountains.  With  kindest  regards  to  your  daughter  I  am  dear 
Madam  Very  sincerely  yours, 

Jessie  B.  Fremont 

I  find  I  have  omitted  what  I  principally  wished  to  say— that  at  Fort 
Hall  our  friends  would  have  every  comfort  that  fire  food  &  shelter 
could  give.  So  you  need  be  under  no  apprehensions  as  to  Theodore's 
health  during  the  winter  for  I  am  sure  Mr.  Fremont  would  not  let 
him  expose  himself." 

ALS,  RC  (DLC— Talbot  Papers).  A  letter  of  21  April  1844  from  JBF  to 
Mrs.  Talbot  is  not  printed,  as  it  gives  no  information  on  JCF  and  merely 
councils  "patience." 

1.  Possibly  Edward  J.  Glasgow  (1820-1908),  who  had  been  in  business  at 
Mazatlan  with  his  uncle,  James  Glasgow.  This  JBF  letter  implies  that  Glasgow 
had  seen  JCF  at  Fort  Vancouver  before  returning  to  St.  Louis  to  engage  in 
the  Santa  Fe  trade. 

2.  JCF  and  his  party  finally  arrived  at  St.  Louis  on  6  Aug.  1844  in  the 
steamer  latan  (see  Doc.  No.  137,  p.  724;  Daily  National  Intelligencer,  17 
Aug.  1844). 


83.  Fremont  to  J.  J.  Abert 

Washington  City,  August  21.  1845  [1844] 
Sir, 

I  have  the  honor  to  submit  for  your  consideration  the  following 
statement.  Col.  Robert  Campbell  of  St.  Louis  has  been  in  the  habit  of 
furnishing  funds  and  supplies  for  the  outfit  and  maintenance  in  the 
field  of  the  different  parties  under  my  command  in  the  prosecution 
of  military  &  geographical  surveys  west  of  the  Mississippi,  from  the 
year  1842  to  the  present  time.  Drafts  drawn  by  me  upon  him  in  pay- 
ment of  wages  and  supplies  have  been  always  promptly  met,  and  the 
funds  necessary  for  the  discharge  of  parties  furnished  by  him  until 
the  same  could  be  furnished  from  Washington  or  was  appropriated 


362 


by  Congress.  These  supplies  were  furnished  in  all  cases  without 
commissions. 

After  the  return  of  the  recent  exploring  party  from  California  Mr. 
Campbell  undertook  to  discharge  a  part  of  my  liability  to  the  party 
and  thereby  to  maintain  the  credit  of  the  government  and  quiet  the 
clamors  of  the  men.  These  advances  amount  to  $6204.44.  They  were 
made  on  government  account  and  in  my  name  and  I  have  to  request 
that  the  amount  be  paid  to  Col.  Campbell  out  of  the  appropriations 
for  arrearages,  and  to  be  charged  to  my  account,  to  be  sustained  here- 
after by  proper  vouchers,  which  are  in  my  hands,  and  will  be  fur- 
nished as  soon  as  practicable.  Very  Respectfully  Your  Obt.  Servt. 

J.  C.  Fremont 

Copy  (DNA-217,  T-135,  Roll  1,  Accounts  and  Payments,  1845-49). 


84.  Fremont  to  William  Wilkins 


Sir, 


Washington  City 
August  28th,  1844. 


I  have  read  the  papers  with  the  perusal  of  which  you  honored  me,^ 
and  in  addition  to  the  facts  contained  in  them  can  only  add  the  fol- 
lowing, which  appear  to  have  any  bearing  upon  the  question.  The 
ground  on  which  the  action  took  place  is  claimed  by  the  Sioux,  and 
undoubtedly  belongs  to  them.  On  the  day  previous  to  the  fight  a 
solitary  Sioux  was  surprized  &  scalped  by  the  Delawares.  For  the 
truth  of  this  we  have  only  the  word  of  the  Sioux,  and  it  is  highly 
improbable  that  the  Delawares,  who  are  distinguished  for  their 
sagacity  &  skill  would  have  committed  such  an  error  in  the  face[  ?] 
of  a  strong  body  of  their  enemies.  The  Delaware  was  strictly  a  hunt- 
ing party.  I  saw  their  traps  among  the  spoils  taken  by  the  Sioux.  The 
Delawares  were  on  a  customary  line  of  travel  for  all  going  to  the 
mountains,  both  Indians  and  whites.  At  this  time  there  are  Delaware 
trappers  in  the  mountains,  among  them  Capt.  Swanac's  son.  The 
Sioux,  Cheyennes,  and  Arapahoes,  appear  to  enjoy  this  section  of 
country  in  common  and  make  no  other  use  of  it  than  to  go  into  it  in 


363 


war  parties,  principally  against  the  Pawnees.  On  my  return  lately 
from  the  mountains  I  met  a  large  war  party  of  Arapahoes  on  the 
Smoky  Hill  Fork  of  the  Kansas,  They  were  returning  home  and  had 
been  down  as  far  as  the  Pawnee  villages.  It  is  customary  for  Dela- 
ware, Kansas,  and  Pawnee  Indians  to  go  into  this  country  for  Buffalo 
as  they  have  none  in  their  own ;  the  Sioux,  &c.  always  had  abundance 
of  buffalo  in  the  country  which  they  occupy  nearer  the  mountains. 
Out  of  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  their  villages  the  Sioux, 
Cheyennes,  and  Arapahoes,  never  fail  to  destroy  any  small  parties 
of  Indians  and  for  some  years  past,  of  whites  also,  without  any  re- 
gard whatever  as  to  whom  the  country  may  belong  where  the  fight 
takes  place.*  They  are  now,  especially  the  Arapahoes,  more  hostile 
than  they  have  been  at  any  period  for  twenty  years.  Along  the  moun- 
tains, on  the  waters  of  the  Arkansas  and  Platte  rivers,  the  Sioux, 
Cheyennes  and  Arapahoes,  can  bring  out  three  thousand  men.  Very 
respectfully  sir.  Your  Obdt.  Servt. 

J.  C.  Fremont, 
2d.  Lieut.  Topis.  Engineers 

*  Several  acts  of  this  kind  have  been  committed  in  the  present  year. 
My  party  narrowly  escaped  being  cut  off  by  them  and  they  killed 
whites  in  my  immediate  neighbourhood. 

ALS-JBF  (DNA-75,  LR  by  the  Office  of  Indian  Affairs,  Fort  Leavenworth 
Agency).  Endorsed,  "O.  I.  A.  Ft.  Leavenworth  Washn.  Aug.  28.  '44.  Lt.  J.  C. 
Fremont.  Returns  letter  &c.  of  Col.  Kearny  &  Th.  H.  Harvey  [  .  .  .  |  & 
reports  on  the  killing  of  Delawares  by  Sioux  &  Cheyenne,  the  subject  of 
them.  F  208  Rec  Aug  28/44.  Indian  Office  Reed.  30  Augt.  1844."  William 
Wilkins  (1779-1865),  former  U.S.  senator  and  minister  to  Russia,  an  ex- 
pansionist and  a  supporter  of  Andrew  Jackson's  policies,  was  confirmed 
as  Secretary  of  War  soon  after  the  rejection  of  his  fellow  Pennsylvanian, 
James  M.  Porter. 

1.  As  the  endorsement  indicates,  these  were  letters  of  Colonel  Kearny  and 
Thomas  H.  Harvey,  Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs  at  St.  Louis.  Harvey 
outlined  the  increasing  friction  between  the  Sioux  on  the  one  hand  and  the 
Delawares,  Pawnees,  and  Omahas  on  the  other,  and  recommended  a  strong 
military  establishment  above  Council  Bluffs  to  keep  peace  among  the  western 
Indians  though  he  knew  "too  well  the  strong  prejudices  of  the  military  to 
leave  civilization  to  entertain  hope  of  such  an  establishment  until  the  Govern- 
ment shall  be  convinced  by  the  most  calamitous  results  to  the  Indians" 
(Thomas  H.  Harvey  to  the  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs,  St.  Louis,  12 
Aug.  1844,  DNA-75,  LR,  O.  I.  A.,  Fort  Leavenworth  Agency).  The  letter  of 
Kearny  is  not  found,  but  by  1845  he  was  known  to  favor  biennial  or  triennial 
cavalry  expeditions  rather  than  permanent  forts  at  remote  points  (clarke, 
99-100). 


85.  Rudolph  Bircher  to  Fremont 

St.  Louis,  Mo.,  September  15, 1844 
Dear  Sir: 

In  the  bearer  you  will  recognise  Alexis  Ayot,  one  of  the  men  who 
belonged  to  your  expedition  to  the  Rocky  mountains;  and  who, 
through  accident,  was  shot  during  the  voyage  through  his  right  leg, 
endangering  to  all  appearances,  if  not  his  life,  at  least  the  leg  itself, 
to  such  a  degree  as  to  make  it  uncertain  whether  amputation  would 
not  become  necessary.^  At  your  request  I  took  the  poor  fellow  under 
my  charge,  and  I  rejoice  to  be  able  to  send  him  to  you,  after  careful 
treatment  on  my  part,  in  the  condition  you  see  him.  He  is  cured, 
though  it  is  doubtful  whether  a  sort  of  lameness  and  permanent 
weakness  will  not  remain  the  final  result.  This  has  of  course  sub- 
jected the  poor  man  to  heavy  expenses;  his  bill  for  surgical  treatment 
and  medicines  has  amounted  to  $75,  independent  of  his  board,  lodg- 
ing, &c. 

When  it  is  taken  into  consideration  that,  by  this  unfortunate  ac- 
cident, his  whole  object  of  the  voyage  was  frustrated,  his  toil,  labor, 
and  time  lost,  (and  he  stands  there  at  this  moment  as  poor  as  he 
started,  being  crippled  besides,)  I  submit  it  to  your  generous  and 
philanthropic  heart  whether  he  is  not  a  worthy  object  of  your  kind- 
ness and  protection.  There  will  be,  no  doubt,  various  ways  to  provide 
for  him,  should  you  deem  proper  to  extend  aid  to  him. 

With  great  respect,  I  am,  dear  sir,  your  obedient  servant. 

Rudolph  Bircher 


Printed,  "Petition  for  Compensation  for  Loss  of  Limb  by  Alexis  Ayot,  27 
April  1846,"  Senate  Doc.  329,  29th  Cong.,  1st  sess..  Serial  476.  In  June  1841, 
Rudolph  Bircher  had  a  shop  at  87  Main  Street,  and  advertised  himself  as  a 
hairdresser  and  barber  with  capability  in  "cupping  and  Leeching"  (advertise- 
ment in  the  Daily  Missouri  Republican,  2  June  1841). 

1.  The  accident  to  the  voyageur  occurred  near  the  end  of  July  as  the  home- 
ward-bound party  was  crossing  a  creek  (see  p.  723).  By  a  special  act  of  Con- 
gress, Ayot  was  granted  a  $10  pension  per  month.  He  subsequently  married 
an  American  girl,  became  a  shoemaker  in  Montpelier,  Vt.,  and  voted  for  JCF 
in  1856  (see  United  States  Statutes  at  Large,  9:679;  memoirs,  419). 


365 


86.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 


Washington  Septr.  15th  1844 
My  dear  Sir, 

Your  letter  arrived  yesterday  evening  and  I  read  it  with  almost 
as  much  pain  as  gratification.  I  felt  much  gratified  with  the  very 
flattering  manner  in  which  you  speak  of  my  Report,  and  at  the  same 
time  felt  regret  and  mortification  at  my  inability  to  do  any  thing 
just  now  in  furtherance  of  the  plan  we  had  proposed  to  ourselves 
when  I  set  out  upon  the  recent  campaign.  A  fatality  seemed  to  at- 
tend our  plants  in  this  expedition.  The  collection  between  Fort  Hall 
(on  Lewis'  or  Snake  river)  and  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  in  Upper 
California  was  entirely  lost  by  a  fall  of  the  mule  on  which  it  was 
packed,  from  a  precipice  into  a  torrent.  The  animal  was  killed  and 
the  bales  could  not  be  recovered.  From  California  to  the  forks  of  the 
Kansas  river,  I  had  made  a  collection  which  would  have  been  full  of 
interest  to  you.  I  have  never  seen  anything  comparable  to  the  pro- 
fusion and  variety  of  plants  in  the  country  thro'  which  I  passed.  I 
am  satisfied  that  very  many  of  the  plants  &  shrubs,  as  well  as  several 
trees  were  entirely  new,  &  I  had  with  great  labor  ascertained  from 
the  Indians  the  medicinal  qualities  of  many,  and  had  obtained  all 
those  which  they  used  in  any  way  for  food.  With  these  latter  I  was 
also  acquainted  from  having  used  them  myself,  and  the  use  of  the 
former  I  had  witnessed  in  several  important  cases.  I  had  carefully 
studied  the  vegetation  through  every  mile  of  the  region  travelled 
and  made  full  notes.  In  addition  to  our  complete  publication  sep- 
arate from  the  body  of  the  Report,  I  had  intended  that  we  should 
give  interest  &  value  to  the  narrative  by  inserting  in  it,  &  for  each 
day  along  the  line  of  travel,  the  characteristic  shrubs  &  plants  of  the 
region,  which  as  the  country  was  a  waste,  desert  and  mountains,  & 
generally  devoid  of  timber  between  the  Californian  &  the  Rocky  Mts. 
formed  a  peculiar  &  highly  interesting  growth.  You  will  form  some 
idea  to  yourself  of  the  floral  richness  of  the  country  from  the  fact 
that  at  a  distance  of  twenty  five  miles  I  mistook  the  fields  of  red  & 
orange  flowers  along  the  slopes  at  the  foot  of  mountains  for 
strata  of  parti  coloured  rocks.  Though  in  the  course  of  our  journey 
the  Bales  of  plants  had  been  twice  wet,  yet  they  were  in  very  beauti- 
ful order  when  we  encamped  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Kansas  on 

366 


the  13th  of  July,  in  the  course  of  which  night  it  began  to  rain  vio- 
lently &  towards  morning  the  river  which  was  100  yards  wide  sud- 
denly broke  over  its  banks,  becoming  in  less  than  5  minutes  more  than 
half  a  mile  in  breadth.  Everything  we  had  was  thoroughly  soaked. 
We  were  obliged  to  move  camp  to  the  Bluffs  in  a  heavy  rain  which 
continued  for  several  days  and  our  fine  collection  was  entirely 
ruined.^  I  have  never  had  a  severer  trial  of  my  fortitude.  I  brought 
them  along  and  such  as  they  are  I  send  them  to  you.  They  are 
broken  up  &  mouldy  and  decayed,  and  to  day  I  tried  to  change 
some  of  them,  but  found  it  better  to  let  them  alone.  Perhaps  your 
familiarity  with  plants  may  enable  you  to  make  something  out  of 
them.  You  will  find  them  labelled  with  numbers  which  correspond 
to  the  numbers  of  notes  in  my  books,  which  I  will  copy  &  send  to 
you  in  case  you  can  do  anything  with  them."  I  shall  probably  be  in 
New  York  soon  &  could  indicate  the  localities  of  such  as  are  not 
labelled.  From  the  wreck  of  our  Fossil  collection  I  saved  some  in 
which  the  Vegetable  impressions  seem  to  me  very  plain  &  beautiful. 
Could  you  aid  me  in  decyphering  them  ?  If  so  I  will  send  or  bring 
them.  From  the  moment  the  plants  were  lost,  I  had  formed  a  de- 
termination which  has  been  strengthened  by  your  letter — to  return 
immediately  to  the  interesting  regions  I  have  described  to  you,  with 
the  main  and  leading  object  of  making  anew  such  collection  as  will 
enable  us  to  give  a  perfect  description  of  the  vegetable  character  of 
the  whole  region.  Its  interest  will  of  course  be  increased  by  large 
additions  in  Geography  &  Geology  as  we  shall  run  an  entirely  new 
line  in  going  out.  I  beg  that  you  will  keep  this  plan  in  view  in  your 
examination  of  the  plants  I  now  send  you,  as  we  may  possibly  be 
able  to  connect  them  with  those  I  shall  gather  next  year.  Silence  is 
one  of  the  elements  of  success,  and  therefore  I  know  that  you  will 
excuse  me  for  telling  you  that  I  mention  this  plan  only  to  yourself 
&  shall  speak  of  it  to  no  one  else.  I  have  60  or  70  fine  mules  & 
horses  at  pasture  on  the  frontier  and  shall  immediately  commence 
my  preparations  so  as  to  leave  the  frontier  early  in  April,  about  the 
1st  and  shall  certainly  be  again  at  the  frontier  early  in  October  of 
next  year  (1845). 

In  order  to  have  efficient  assistance  in  preparing  &  changing  the 
plants  &c.  I  take  with  me  a  young  German  gardener'^  who  has  the 
botanical  education  which  they  usually  receive.  We  shall  also  have 
colored  figures  of  the  plants.  I  trust  that  you  will  ent^er  warmly  into 
my  enterprise  &  give  me  in  the  course  of  the  winter  whatever  sug- 

367 


gestions  may  offer  themselves  to  you,  tending  to  ensure  our  success. 
I  must  not  omit  to  inform  you  that  our  geographical  labors  were 
attended  with  a  beautiful  success.  We  have  passed  through  a  country 
new  &  full  of  interest  every  mile  of  which  we  have  sketched  in  our 
field  books,  supported  by  several  volumes  of  astronomical  positions. 
All  my  notes  of  every  kind  have  been  preserved  and  enough  re- 
mains from  the  Geological  collection  to  determine  much  positively 
&  next  year  will  add  a  great  deal.  I  am  very  desirous  to  study  these 
remains  with  some  good  Geologist,  conversant  in  fossils  &  it  would 
be  very  important  to  me  to  endeavor  to  add  something  to  the  little 
knowledge  I  have  of  practical  botany.  Altogether  I  shall  have  a  busy 
winter,  in  writing  a  Report  of  the  last  campaign  which  must  be 
presented  to  Congress  before  March,  &  in  preparing  for  another.  The 
plants  will  leave  this  place  Tuesday  morning  &  I  will  drop  you  a 
note  where  to  find  them.  You  will  find  a  small  parcel  containing 
some  of  the  fruit  of  an  accacia  (?)  of  which  I  have  been  able  to  find 
no  description.  If  not  destroyed  you  will  also  find  the  leaves  &  fruit 
among  the  plants  in  the  paper.  Among  the  plants  you  will  [find] 
the  wood  of  the  artemisia  (a  tridentata)^  &  a  salt  shrub  which  I  can 
indicate  to  you  among  the  plants  by  the  number.  The  mat  I  thought 
would  interest  you,  as  it  is  made  from  the  Ammoli  a  California 
plant  which  is  in  the  collection  &  will  be  recognized  when  we  com- 
pare numbers.  I  conclude  now  this  disjointed  letter  &  hope  to  hear 
from  you  soon  in  reply.  I  am  my  dear  Sir  Very  truly  yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont. 
Dr.  Torrey. 

ALS,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 

1.  In  the  summer  of  1844,  most  if  not  all  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Kansas 
River  had  great  floods,  possibly  record-breaking,  due  to  prolonged  and  heavy 
rains  in  May  and  June.  Almost  a  month  earlier  than  JCF's  13  July  flood,  the 
water  had  crested  at  Kansas  City  and  seems  to  have  been  considerably  higher 
than  the  disastrous  flood  of  1951  from  Manhattan  to  below  Lawrence  on  the 
Kansas  and  Marias  des  Cygnes  rivers  (flora). 

2.  Torrey  in  turn  sent  Fremont's  Compositae  to  Gray,  who  at  first  wrote  that 
though  the  greater  part  were  well  known,  there  did  appear  to  be  three  or 
four  belonging  to  genera  new  to  him.  All  the  specimens  were  so  bad  that  he 
thought  it  best  not  to  make  an  independent  report  on  the  collection — "too 
many  puzzles  which  good  specimens  another  time  will  settle  clearly."  Later  he 
decided  to  characterize  the  four  new  genera — "three  of  which  were  remark- 
ably distinct  ones  and  curious" — in  the  Boston  Journal  of  Natural  History  in 
order  to  secure  them,  and  his  paper  was  published  in  Jan.  1845  (5:104-11). 
See  letters  of  Asa   Gray  to  Torrey,   Monday   evening,    [1844],   and    3   Dec. 

368 


[1844],  NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence.  By  the  time  the  second  Report 
was  published,  Gray  had  ascertained  a  fifth  new  genus,  Nicolletia,  from  the 
specimens. 

3.  Not  identified. 

4.  A.  tridentata  Nutt.,  sagebrush. 


87.  Asa  Gray  to  John  Torrey 

Thursday  Evening,  Oct.  1  [1844] 

•  •  •  • 

Dr.  Wyman  wishes  much  to  accompany  Fremont  if  he  goes  on 
another  journey — entirely  at  his  own  expenses,  if  need  be/  As  his 
object  is  entirely  zoology,  he  will  not  interfere  with  Fremont's 
botanical  plans,  while  the  results  would  redound  to  Fremont's  ad- 
vantage. He  is  a  most  amiable,  quiet,  and  truly  gentlemanly  fellow, 
retiring  to  a  fault,  but  full  of  nerve,  and  surely  is  to  be  the  great  man 
of  this  country  in  the  highest  branches  of  zoology  and  comparative 
anatomy.  I  therefore  very  strenuously  solicit  your  influence  at  court 
in  his  behalf. 

I  am  glad  that  Fremont  takes  so  much  personal  interest  in  his 
botanical  collections.  He  will  do  all  the  more.  I  should  like  to  see 
his  plants,  especially  the  Compositae  &  Rosaceae.  As  to  Conijerae 
he  should  have  the  Taxodium  sempervirens,  so  imperfectly  known, 
and  probably  a  new  genus.  Look  quick  at  it,  for  it  is  probably  in 
Coulter's  coll.  which  Harvey  is  working  at.^ 

•  •  •  • 

With  love  to  all,  I  remain  cordially  yours, 

A.  Gray 

ALS,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 

1.  At  this  time  Jeffries  Wyman  (1814-74),  who  was  to  become  one  of 
America's  leading  anatomists,  was  professor  of  anatomy  and  physiology, 
Hampden-Sydney  College  Medical  School,  Richmond,  Va.  In  1847,  he  was 
appointed  Hersey  Professor  of  Anatomy  at  Harvard  and  there  built  up  the 
anatomical  museum.  He  did  not  accompany  JCF  in  1845,  but  made  collecting 
expeditions  to  Florida,  Surinam,  and  South  America  in  the  1850s. 

2.  Thomas  Coulter,  born  near  Dublin  in  1793,  collected  plants  in  Mexico 
while  in  the  employ  of  a  mining  company,  and  in  California  in  1831  and  1832. 
He  later  became  curator  of  the  herbarium  in  Trinity  College,  Dublin  Uni- 
versity, and  his  successor  in  this  office.  Professor  W.  H.  Harvey,  worked  on 
Coulter's  Mexican  and  Californian  plants  in  1844  (mc  kelvey,  428-42). 


88.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  D.C.  Octr  6th  1844 
My  dear  Sir, 

An  absence  from  the  city  will  account  to  you  for  this  late  reply 
to  your  last  two  letters,  which  I  found  here  on  my  return.  I  am  very 
glad  to  hear  that  you  will  be  able  to  rescue  many  of  the  plants  &  still 
better  satisfied  to  know  that  the  botanical  riches  of  the  country  are 
as  great  as  I  had  thought.  All  your  suggestions  which  regard  the 
collection  of  Cryptogamia  [mosses,  ferns]  shall  be  particularly  at- 
tended to  &  good  coloured  drawings  made  of  plants  &  trees,  and 
since  reading  your  letter  I  am  very  sanguine  that  we  shall  be  able  to 
produce  a  very  interesting  and  valuable  work.  I  have  kept  myself 
well  informed  of  the  movements  of  Loeders  &  Geyer  and  we  must  do 
our  best  endeavors  to  anticipate  the  English  botanist.  Geyer  wrote 
to  me  from  Fort  Hall  when  I  was  on  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  He  had 
made  a  large  collection  which  he  proposed  to  complete  &  carry  to 
Europe  the  present  year,  embarking  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 
He  is  now  in  the  north  or  main  branch  of  the  Columbia.  I  met 
Loeders  at  the  cascades  of  the  Columbia  near  Vancouver  to  which 
he  was  going.  He  had  made  no  collection  whatever,  but  proposed 
doing  much  work  this  year.  The  proposals  for  the  sale  of  collec- 
tions which  you  saw  in  the  European  papers  were  from  Engelman 
of  St.  Louis.  He  had  made  arrangements  with  Loeder  &  Geyer  to 
dispose  of  their  collections  which  should  be  delivered  to  him  on 
the  condition  that  Dr.  Engelman  should  fit  them  out  &  they  enjoy 
the  pecuniary  advantage  from  the  sale  of  the  collections  which  he 
engaged  to  dispose  of,  while  all  the  reputation  arising  from  their 
description  &c.  should  belong  to  him. 

So  far  Loeder  has  not  succeeded  and  Geyer  proved  entirely  faith- 
less to  his  confidence,  carrying  off  the  plants  &  otherwise  behaving 
very  badly. ^  This  brings  me  directly  to  the  gentleman  you  recom- 
mend. He  will  work  for  us  in  good  faith  for  such  salary  as  I  can 
give  him,  and  what  profit  as  may  arise  from  the  sale  of  the  plants? 
If  you  are  certain  that  he  may  be  relied  on  for  these  things  I  will 
certainly  try  to  do  what  you  desire  &  take  him  with  me — tho' 
I  have  proceeded  somewhat  far  in  an  arrangement  with  another 
person  who  would  be  satisfied  to  aid  me  in  gathering  the  plants 

370 


for  a  stipulated  salary.  Still  I  should  like  better  the  gentleman  you 
mention  &  should  take  pleasure  in  aiding  him  in  any  way  possible 
as  you  describe  him  to  be  poor  &  dispirited.  I  would  be  glad  if  you 
would  assist  me  to  determine  some  fossil  remains,  belonging  to  a 
bituminous  coal  formation,  which  I  brought  among  my  specimens. 
They  are  very  interesting  &  important  to  me  in  fixing  the  geology. 
If  you  think  you  can  find  leisure  I  will  send  them  to  you.  I  thank 
you  for  your  offer  to  bear  a  portion  of  the  expense  of  transporting 
the  plants;  but  it  was  small  &  I  beg  you  will  not  think  of  it — Yours 
very  truly, 

J,  C.  Fremont 

ALS,  RC  (NNNBG — Torrey  Correspondence).  Endorsed,  "Upon  official 
business  Bureau  of  Topi.  Engrs.  J.  J.  Abert  Col.  Corps  T.  E."  Addressed  to 
"Dr.  John  Torrey,  Princeton,  New  Jersey." 

1.  For  Liiders'  losses,  see  Doc.  No.  69,  note  2,  and  p.  571.  In  spite  of  his 
written  contract  with  George  Engelmann,  whereby  Geyer  gave  him  disposal 
rights  to  his  collection  in  return  for  his  outfit,  Geyer  returned  to  London  and 
offered  his  sets  to  Sir  William  Hooker  (mc  kelvey,  775,  778). 


89.  Fremont  to  George  Engelmann 


Washington  City  Octr.  22d.  1844 
My  dear  Sir, 

I  found  the  plants  in  such  a  miserable  condition  when  I  arrived 
that  I  could  not  even  change  them  but  sent  them  direct  to  Dr. 
Torrey.  The  greater  part  were  entirely  ruined ;  he  says  he  thinks  he 
will  be  able  to  identify  a  number  of  them,  &  judging  from  the  col- 
lection he  says  we  have  sustained  a  great  loss  as  the  botanical  riches 
of  the  country  are  very  great.  Among  the  collection  are  several  speci- 
mens of  new  trees.  Dr.  Torrey  &  Dr.  Gray  are  jointly  engaged 
in  endeavoring  to  make  what  they  can  out  of  them.  But  my  mis- 
fortune on  this  occasion  will  be  a  safeguard  to  me  on  the  next 
trip.  I  find  that  the  most  valuable  among  the  geological  specimens 
have  been  preserved.  These  are  fossils  of  vegetable  &  other  remains 
which  fortunately  have  not  been  in  the  least  injured  while  most  of 
the  others  were  entirely  ground  up.  So  much  therefore  we  have  as 
certain  data  &  on  the  next  trip  may  possibly  do  enough  to  make  a 
connected   work.  Will  you  have  the  kindness   to  send   me   your 

371 


barometrical  observations  from  May  18th  to  the  1st  of  October  1843. 
I  shall  be  glad  to  get  them  soon  as  by  the  time  they  reach  here  I  shall 
wish  to  make  the  calculations.  I  have  been  very  busy  but  will  find 
time  to  write  to  you  occasionally  if  I  have  anything  of  interest  to 
say.  Please  give  my  regards  to  Dr.  Wislizenus.^  Did  he  in  the 
course  of  his  journey  in  the  mountains  see  what  is  given  as  the 
mountain  goat  in  Richardson's  Fauna— (color  white,  wool  or  hair 
long).  The  only  goat  that  I  have  seen  is  like  the  animal  only  in  the 
horns — the  body  is  like  a  deer  &  colored  like  one  with  short  hair — it 
makes  the  bleat  of  a  sheep,  &  the  hunters  call  it  the  mountain  sheep. 
The  naturalist  who  accompanied  Wilkes  Exploring  expedition"  tells 
me  that  he  saw  it  in  the  mountains  near  the  head  of  the  Arkansaw 
but  did  not  get  near  enough  to  kill  one.  Yours  very  truly  &  re- 
spectfully, 

J.  C.  Fremont 

Please  put  your  reply  in  an  envelope  addressed  to  Col.  J.  J.  Abert, 
Chief  of  the  Topographical  Bureau. 

ALS,  RC  (MoSB).  Endorsed,  "Rec— Nov.  2d.  Ans.  Nov.  27th." 

1.  In  1844,  Friedrich  Adolph  Wislizenus  (1810-89)  was  practicing  medicine 
in  St.  Louis  in  partnership  with  Engelmann.  He  was  already  an  experienced 
western  traveler  and  author,  for  he  had  accompanied  a  fur-trading  party  to  the 
Far  West,  journeying  to  a  rendezvous  on  Green  River  and  to  Fort  Hall, 
and  returning  by  way  of  the  Laramie  plains,  the  Arkansas  River,  and  the 
Santa  Fe  Trail  to  St.  Louis.  He  published  an  account  of  his  journey  under  the 
title  Ein  Ausflug  nach  der  Felsen-Gebirgen  in  Jahre  1839  (later  issued  in 
English).  In  1846,  he  would  join  a  trading  caravan  for  Santa  Fe  and  Chi- 
huahua and  make  close  observations  of  the  fauna,  flora,  and  geology  of  that 
region. 

2.  Titian  Ramsay  Peale  (1799-1885).  Peale  was  much  interested  in  moun- 
tain sheep,  and  some  of  his  sketches  of  them  appear  in  Jessie  Poesch's  account 
of  Peale,  published  as  vol.  52  (1961)  of  the  Memoirs  of  the  American 
Philosophical  Society. 


90.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  D.  C.  October  28th.  1844 
My  Dear  Sir, 

I  write  you  a  line  to  say  that  constant  occupation  has  prevented 
my  replying  to  yours  as  I  have  been  endeavoring  day  after  day  to 

372 


find  the  time  to  make  you  out  a  copy  of  notes  for  the  plants.  I  think 
I  shall  be  able  to  carry  out  many  of  the  suggestions  contained  in  your 
letter.  Col.  Abert  shewed  me  a  letter  from  Dr.  Grey  [Gray]  in  favor 
of  Dr.  Wyman,  In  case  any  arrangement  should  be  made  with  Dr. 
Wyman,  it  will  be  necessary  that  he  receive  his  salary  from  the  De- 
partment and  report  to  it.  I  have  not  been  able  to  find  a  single  copy 
of  my  Report  but  if  I  should  succeed  in  obtaining  any  I  will  send 
them  to  you.  I  would  be  much  obliged  to  you  if  you  could  give  me 
the  name  of  the  enclosed  little  plants.  It  was  the  first  flower  I  found 
in  bloom  on  descending  from  the  California  Mts.  I  will  write  again 
very  soon.  Yours  truly, 

J.  C.  Fremont 

ALS,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 


91.   Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  City  Novr  21st.  1844. 


My  dear  Sir, 


I  send  you  herewith  a  list  of  localities  for  the  plants  of  1844.  Those 
for  '43  I  will  send  you  in  a  day  or  two  as  I  did  not  wish  to  make 
one  such  large  package.  These  are  simply  the  descriptions  annexed 
to  the  plant  when  first  taken  but  the  greater  part  of  those  plants  are 
noticed  repeatedly  through  all  my  journals,  &  their  localities  ex- 
tended with  additional  information  respecting  them — but  as  I  am 
much  pressed  for  time  &  this  list  has  already  amounted  to  fifty  pages 
I  thought  it  better  to  wait — until  you  ascertained  what  plants  could 
be  recognized,  when  I  will  send  you  the  additional  information.  In 
the  other  package  the  numbers  go  as  high  as  800 — making  about 
1500.  Nearly  all  of  the  plants  gathered  on  the  Kansas  were  not 
numbered.  I  was  somewhat  discouraged  by  the  accident  to  the 
others — You  will  recognize  these  by  the  large  numbers  without 
labels.  If  you  could  conveniently  do  so,  it  would  give  much  addi- 
tional interest  to  my  Report,  were  you  to  furnish  me  with  the 
botanical  names  of  the  grasses  &  characteristic  plants.  For  this  to  be  of 
use  it  would  be  necessary  for  me  to  have  it  in  a  couple  of  months  as  my 
Report  must  be  out  by  then.  I  do  not  know  if  it  is  exactly  proper  to 

373 


ask  this  of  you  but  I  have  met  so  many  losses  in  my  collections  on 
which  I  relied  very  much,  that  I  must  do  all  that  I  can  to  give  some 
value  to  my  Report.  Please  let  me  hear  on  this"  subject  as  soon  as  you 
have  leisure.  Will  you  let  me  know  how  I  shall  send  our  Geological 
specimens  to  Prof.  Hall?  or  may  I  send  the  box  to  you  if  he  is  in 
New  York  ?  There  does  not  now  remain  much  time  &  I  am  anxious 
they  should  be  in  his  hands  as  soon  as  possible.  The  arrangements 
for  our  expedition  go  on  handsomely,  I  am  having  excellent  instru- 
ments made  &  myself  engaged  in  hard  study,  among  other  things 
descriptive  Botany  &  I  am  in  every  possible  way  forwarding  my  ar- 
rangements, so  as  to  be  able  to  take  the  field  early  in  the  spring.  You 
may  depend  that  I  will  bring  you  something  handsome  before  the 
winter  of  '45. 

We  must  have  the  geological  formation  geographical  position  & 
elevation  above  the  sea  for  all  our  plants.  This  with  the  colored 
figures  of  the  new  specimens  will  make  a  solid  work.  I  also  send 
you  through  the  mail,  two  copies  of  my  Report  of  '43  which  I  am 
glad  to  have  been  able  to  procure  for  you.  Very  truly, 

J.  C.  Fremont 
ALS,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 


92.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  City  December  3d.  1844. 


My  dear  Sir, 


Having  received  no  reply  to  my  last  letters  to  you,  I  conclude  you 
must  be  in  Princeton  &  have  not  received  them  as  they  were  directed 
to  New  York.  The  last  package  contained  the  catalogue  of  all  the 
plants  except  a  few  hundred  for  the  latter  part  of  1843 — which  will 
be  forwarded  as  soon  as  you  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  the  others. 
Will  you  have  the  goodness  to  answer  by  the  return  mail  that  I  may 
know  the  fate  of  the  Catalogue.  Very  truly  yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont 
ALS,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 

374 


93.  George  Engelmann  to  Asa  Gray 

St.  Louis  Dec.  6th.  1844 
Dear  Doctor 

•  •  •  • 

I  believe  I  have  w^ritten  you  that  I  had  a  letter  from  Geyer  from 
Oregon;  he  v^ill  take  his  plants  directly  to  England  (and  not  pay  his 
debts  here  in  St.  Louis,  I  expect!).  Fremont  has  seen  Liiders  on  the 
Columbia,  who  had  lost  everything  he  had  in  the  river.  Fremont 
himself  v^^rites  me  that  most  of  his  plants  were  destroyed.  It  ap- 
peared somewhat  singular  to  me,  that  during  a  stay  of  8  or  10  days 
here  in  St.  Louis  he  would  not  allow  me  to  open  and  dry  his  mould- 
ing packages.  Did  he  distrust  me?  He  appears  to  me  rather  selfish— 
I  speak  confidentially— and  disinclined  to  let  any  body  share  in  his 
discoveries,  anxious  to  reap  all  the  honour,  as  well  as  undertake  all  the 
labour  himself.  He  objected  to  take  any  botanist  or  geologist  along 
with  him,  though  the  expense  would  hardly  have  been  increased 
and  the  discoveries  certainly  greatly  augmented,  as  he  himself  can 
not  claim  any  knowledge  of  either  branch,  nor  of  zoology.  This 
however  is  a  private  remark.  I  hope  when  Government  does  any- 
thing to  explore  Oregon,  some  competent  men  will  be  sent  along, 
and  I  must  confess  I  should  like  much  to  be  of  the  party. 


Very  truly  yours, 

G.  Engelmann 

ALS,  RC  (MH-G).  Addressed,  "Prof.  A.  Gray,  Cambridge,  Near  Boston, 
Mass." 


94.   Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  City  Dec.  30th.  1844. 
My  Dear  Sir, 

I  trust  that  because  I  delayed  answering  you  for  some  little  time 
that  you  will  not  think  that  I  am  not  very  anxious  on  the  subject  of 

375 


the  rocks  &  plants — on  the  contrary  I  am  becoming  more  so  as  the 
time  at  my  disposal  becomes  shorter.  I  have  for  some  time  past  been 
too  unwell  to  devote  myself  to  labor  &  I  have  also  very  many  calls 
upon  my  attention. 

I  received  your  last  letter  with  a  great  deal  of  satisfaction  as  it  con- 
tained very  many  agreeable  things.  The  determination  of  the  fossil 
specimens  which  I  send  you,  and  the  botanical  information  which  I 
hope  you  will  be  able  to  furnish  me,  will  enable  me  at  once  to  finish 
my  report.  These  subjects  you  know  are  spread  over  the  whole  of  the 
work  and  as  their  introduction  would  be  to  rewrite  the  Report,  I 
have  deferred  it  until  I  shall  receive  it.  Could  not  your  friend  Dr. 
Burscheim^  aid  in  determining  the  grasses  &c.?  I  would  be  glad  to 
allow  him  a  proper  compensation  for  it  &  in  that  way  you  might  be 
saved  a  great  deal  of  trouble  &  I  would  get  the  information  in  time 
besides  giving  him  employment  which  would  bring  him  some  little 
money. 

I  shall  send  boxes  containing  specimens  for  Dr.  Hall  by  the 
Transportation  line  agreeably  to  the  address  you  gave  me  &  will 
let  you  know  what  time  they  will  be  in  New  York.  He  will  think 
them  a  poor  collection— but  I  beg  you  to  tell  him  that  they  are 
merely  the  wreck  of  what  I  had  obtained.  I  send  them  all  to  him  & 
he  will  find  among  them  little  pieces  &  scraps  of  rock  which  have  no 
apparent  interest — but  I  consider  every  geological  fact,  which  can  be 
located,  of  importance  in  that  extensive  region  &  therefore  I  have 
held  on  to  every  thing.  I  was  desirous  that  all  of  the  little  I  would 
have  to  say  on  this  subject  should  be  based  upon  his  authority — but 
if  his  time  should  not  permit  him  to  examine  all  of  them  the  box 
marked  No.  1  will  contain  the  fossils  &  the  others  might  be  re- 
turned. The  numbers  attached  to  each  specimen  correspond  with 
others  in  my  books  &  if  it  would  be  of  any  advantage  to  Dr.  Hall  I 
could  send  him  a  list  of  their  localities.  May  I  beg  you  to  mention 
to  Dr.  Hall  the  urgent  want  I  have  for  the  results  &  I  must  beg  you 
not  to  be  offended  at  my  having  so  repeatedly  pressed  you  for  the 
botanical  knowledge  as  I  am  really  at  a  stand  on  account  of  it.  I 
am  anxious  to  get  through  with  the  business  of  the  last  campaign  in 
order  that  I  may  prepare  earnestly  for  the  next.  I  enclose  you  some 
of  the  seeds  of  a  species  of  coniferae  (No.  367  of  1844)  &  found 
more  numerously  in  1843.  These  seeds  contribute  largely  to  the  sup- 


376 


port  of  Indians  &  I  am  anxious  to  know  what  the  tree  is.  I  shall  be 
glad  to  hear  from  you  soon — Yours  very  truly, 

J.  C.  Fremont 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 

1.  Although  there  is  but  slight  resemblance  to  the  name  "Burscheim,"  Mrs. 
Nesta  Ewan  believes  Dr.  Peter  Knieskern  (1798-1871)  was  the  person  in- 
tended and  that  Jessie,  who  really  authored  the  letter,  was  confused  in  recall- 
ing the  name.  Knieskern,  who  had  botanized  over  the  New  Jersey  Pine 
Barrens,  was  evidendy  rather  friendly  with  Torrey  and  interested  in  grasses. 


95.  Financial  Records,  1  Jan.  1843-31  Dec.  1844 

Editorial  note:  Because  of  sheer  numbers,  vouchers  for  the  period 
after  1  Jan.  1843  will  not  be  handled  as  single  documents,  but  will 
be  presented  in  summary  form  with  the  appropriate  notes  keyed  to 
the  voucher  numbers.  Several  of  the  accounts  for  the  second  expedi- 
tion were  actually  paid  by  Capt.  Thomas  J.  Cram  of  the  Topo- 
graphical Engineers  at  St.  Louis,  although  Fremont,  who  had  re- 
turned to  Washington,  furnished  the  requisite  funds  and  Thomas 
Fitzpatrick  helped  with  the  arrangements  (see  William  Henry 
Swift  to  Cram,  2  Sept.  1844,  and  Abert  to  Cram,  24  Sept.  1844.  Lbk, 
DNA-77,LS,  7:391,  432). 

The  abstract  of  disbursements  for  the  quarter  ending  31  March 
1843  is  to  be  found  in  DNA-217,  Third  Auditor's  Reports  and  Ac- 
counts, Account  No.  16962.  The  abstracts  of  disbursements  for  the 
remaining  quarters  plus  individual  vouchers,  statements  of  differ- 
ences, and  explanations  for  questioned  disbursements  are  all  to  be 
found  on  Roll  1  of  DNA  microfilm  T-135,  a  special  consolidated 
file  of  JCF's  accounts  relating  to  his  expeditions  and  the  California 
Battalion.  Those  pertinent  to  this  period  are  to  be  found  under  two 
categories,  one  of  which  is  too  narrowly  entitled  "Claims  and  Ac- 
knowledgments of  Payments,  1842-1845,  for  the  First  Expedition" 
and  the  second,  "Quarterly  Abstracts  of  Disbursements,  1843-45." 

Unless  otherwise  noted,  all  payments  were  made  at  the  locale  of 
the  business  firm  or  at  St.  Louis. 

The  editors  have  added  the  t  and  the  *  to  the  original  documents. 


377 


The  t  indicates  that  the  seller  became  or  was  a  member  of  the 
expedition.  The  *  indicates  that  Theodore  Talbot  certified  that  the 
property  was  "destroyed,  injured,  lost,  &c."  during  the  expedition. 
Talbot  further  certified  that  of  the  224  head  of  horses  and  mules 
purchased  for  the  use  of  the  expedition,  163  were  eaten,  gave 
out  on  the  road,  died,  or  were  lost  or  stolen.  The  remaining  61  were 
left  on  the  frontier  near  Westport,  Mo. 

Abstract  of  Disbursements  on  Account  of  Surveys 

West  of  the  Mississippi 

for  the  Quarter  Ending  31st  March  1843 


No.  of 

Amount 

voucher 

Nature  of  payment 

To  whom  paid 

Dollars 

Cents 

1 

Services 

Charles  Preuss 

93 

00 

2 

Services 

Joseph  Bougar 

144 

00 

3 

Services 

Charles  Preuss 

93 

00 

4 

Services 

Charles  Preuss 

84 

00 

5 

Sundries 

P.  Chouteau,  Jr. 

&  Co. 

317 

00 

6 

Sundries 

P.  Chouteau,  Jr. 

&  Co. 

88 

75 

7 

Postage 

J.  C.  Fremont 

1 

00 

8 

Services 

J.  N.  Nicollet 

1040 

00 

$1860       79 


1.  Payment  at  Washington,  D.C.,  for  services  as  assistant,  1  Dec.  to  31  Dec. 
1842. 

2.  Voyageur  on  first  expedition  (see  p.  158). 

3.  Payment  at  Washington,  D.C.,  for  services  as  assistant,  1  Jan.  to  31  Jan. 
1843. 

4.  Payment  at  Washington,  D.C.,  for  services  as  assistant,  1  Feb.  to  28 
Feb.  1843. 

5.  For  purchases  (such  as  a  lodge  skin,  ten  pack  saddles,  fifty  lbs.  of  lead, 
rifle,  and  powder  horn)  and  services  (shoeing  horses  and  repair  of  guns) 
made  at  Fort  John  on  16  and  18  July  1843. 

6.  For  purchases  made  at  Fort  John  on  the  Laramie  on  1  and  2  Sept.  1842. 
Such  items  as  buckskin  pants  were  not  permitted  and  the  total  had  to  be  re- 
duced to  $48.50;  yet  a  statement  of  "Differences"  would  indicate  that  only 
$28  was  not  allowed. 

7.  Postage  paid  at  Washington,  D.C.,  on  letter  containing  public  accounts 
received  from  Chouteau  and  Co.  in  St.  Louis. 

378 


8.  Payment  at  Baltimore,  Md.,  for  services,  1  Nov.  1842  to  10  March  1843. 

9.  Because  of  the  suspension  of  items  in  voucher  no.  6,  the  final  total  was 
1,820.50,  and  is  so  shown  in  the  endorsement. 


Abstract  of  Disbursemefits  on  Account  of  Military  and 

Geographical  Surveys  West  of  the  Mississippi  for  the 

Second,  Third,  and  Fourth  Quarters  of  1843, 

and  First,  Second,  and  Third  Quarters  of  1844 


No.  of 

Amount 

voucher 

Nature  of  expenditure 

To  whom  paid 

Dolls. 

Cts. 

#1 

Daguerreotype 

apparatus 

James  R.  Chilton 

78 

25 

2 

Preserved  meats,  &c 

J.  E.  Flandin 

22 

31 

*3 

Daguerreotype 

apparatus 

H.  Chilton 

68 

16 

*4 

Astl.  Instruments 
&c. 

Frye  &  Shaw 

327 

50 

*5 

India  Rubber 

Boat  &c. 

Horace  H.  Day 

302 

10 

6 

Instruments 

Arthur  Stewart 

215 

00 

*7 

Outfit 

Charles  Renard 

40 

00 

*8 

do 

J.  &  B.  Bruce 

115 

00 

9 

do 

Emory  Low 

5 

63 

10 

Freight 

Steamer  Valley 

Forge 

5 

00 

11 

Horses 

Louis  Lajoie 

120 

00 

12 

do 

Cyprian  Billieau 

65 

00 

13 

do 

John  T.  Pigott 

110 

00 

tl4 

do 

Louis  Menard 

35 

00 

15 

do 

A.  Sloan 

45 

00 

16 

Provisions 

N.  Berthoud 

47 

25 

17 

Printing  blanks 

S.  Penn,  Jr. 

10 

00 

tl8 

Horse 

Auguste  Vasquez 

25 

00 

19 

do 

Wm.  G.  Sholfield 

35 

00 

20 

do 

Ewd.  Ploudre 

35 

00 

21 

Mules 

David  Goodfellow 

90 

00 

22 

Horses 

Archibald  Sloan 

55 

00 

23 

do 

A.  Gallatin  Boone 

60 

00 

379 


No.  of 

Amount 

voucher 

Nature  of  expenditure 

To  whom  paid 

Dolls. 

Cts. 

*24 

Outfit 

S.  V.  Farnsworth 

&  Co. 

^ 

44 

25 

Horse 

George  K. 

McGunegle 

20 

00 

26 

Outfit 

A.  Meier  &  Co. 

52 

15 

27 

do 

Jacob  Voglesang 

6 

00 

*28 

do 

J.  S.  Mathews 

2 

50 

29 

do 

T.  Salorgue 

20 

00 

30 

Forage 

B.  W.  Alexander 

21 

35 

*31 

Outfit 

Edwd.  Perry  &  Co. 

172 

37 

32 

Repairing  arms 

J.  &  S.  Havi^ken 

13 

50 

33 

Stationary 

S.  W.  Meech 

28 

20 

34 

Nails 

James  Conway 

6 

00 

*35 

Arms 

Wm.  Campbell 

40 

00 

*36 

Saddles,  bridles, 

harnesses  &c. 

Thornton  Grimsley 

438 

62 

*37 

Harness 

Ross  &  Cowe 

32 

00 

38 

Equipment 

G.  W.  Rogers 

5 

00 

39 

do 

Joseph  Cailloun 

9 

00 

40 

Provisions 

N.  Devillers  &  Co. 

10 

44 

41 

do 

R.  O.  Taylor 

17 

78 

#42 

Making  Tents 

Z.  Prevaud 

25 

00 

*43 

Equipment 

N.  Tiernan 

140 

00 

#44 

do 

Jos.  Murphy 

181 

20 

45 

do 

John  Hobson 

30 

00 

*46 

Instruments  &c. 

Jacob  Blattner 

27 

00 

#47 

Equipment 

N.  Phillips 

25 

00 

48 

Horse  hire  and 

forage 

R.  Mc  O'Blinis 

72 

52 

49 

Equipment 

K.  McKenzie 

88 

50 

do 

E.  W.  &  G.  Poore 

3 

00 

51 

Provisions 

F.  Leonard 

12 

07 

52 

Provisions 

E.  Sisson 

30 

94 

53 

Horse 

Benjn.  Watson 

30 

00 

54 

Mules 

D.  W.  Griffith 

70 

00 

55 

do 

Thos.  Peery 

40 

00 

380 


No.  of 

Amount 

voucher 

Nature  of  expenditure 

To  whom  paid 

Dolls. 

Cts. 

56 

do 

Mark  R.  C.  Pulliam 

35 

00 

57 

Transportation,  pro- 

Steamer Col. 

visions,  &c. 

Woods 

150 

42 

58 

Mules 

Talton  Turner 

225 

00 

59 

do 

James  Foster 

25 

00 

60 

do 

Lucien  Stewart 

50 

00 

61 

do 

George  Wilson 

35 

00 

62 

do 

Phineas  C.  Islue 

22 

50 

63 

do 

A.  B.  H.  Magee 

30 

00 

64 

do 

F.  P.  McGee 

35 

00 

65 

Repairs  &c. 

Gabriel  Philibert 

8 

25 

66 

Horse 

Luther  M.  Carter 

40 

00 

67 

Mules 

L.  D.  W.  Shaw 

205 

00 

68 

do 

James  M.  "Weathers 

42 

50 

69 

Horse 

B.  McDermott 

25 

00 

70 

Mules 

Campbell  & 

Sublette 

160 

00 

71 

do 

Nathl.  Bowman 

30 

00 

72 

Horse 

Jas.  T.  Greenfield 

26 

00 

73 

Mule 

as.  M.  Owen 

40 

00 

74 

Forage 

Francis  Bradley 

16 

55 

75 

Mule 

S.  Wade 

25 

00 

76 

Sundries 

Boone  &  Hamilton 

184 

26 

77 

Mule 

Jas.  M.  Simpson 

40 

00 

78 

Services 

Oscar  Sarpy 

66 

00 

79 

Provisions  &c. 

J.  &  E.  Walsh 

396 

63 

t*80 

Mules  &c. 

Alex.  Godey 

200 

00 

81 

Services 

Ransom  Clark 

36 

90 

82 

do 

Jas.  Power 

36 

00 

83 

do 

Thos.  Rogers 

40 

26 

84 

do 

Jas.  Rogers 

40 

26 

*85 

Lodge  &  poles 

A.  C.  Metcalf 

30 

00 

86 

Mules,  camp  equip- 

Bent &  St.  Vrain 

age  &c. 

&  Co. 

667 

62 

87 

Services 

Louis  Menard 

328 

66 

88 

do 

Auguste  Vasquez 

90 

90 

381 


No.  of 

Amount 

voucher 

Nature  of  expenditure 

To  whom  paid 

Dolls. 

Cts. 

89 

do 

Frangois  Lajeu- 

nesse 

126 

35 

90 

do 

John  Campbell 

90 

90 

91 

do 

Clinton  DeForrest 

90 

90 

92 

do 

Michael  Creely 

90 

90 

93 

do 

Basil  Lajeunesse 

164 

12 

94 

do 

Alexis  Parraw 

90 

90 

95 

do 

Baptiste  Tissant 

Tesson 

90 

90 

96 

do 

Patrick  White 

90 

90 

97 

do 

Henry  Lee 

90 

90 

98 

do 

William  Creuss 

90 

90 

99 

Provisions  &c. 

Hudson  Bay 

Compy. 

2038 

65 

100 

Services 

John  G,  Campbell 

94 

00 

101 

Provisions  &c. 

H.  B.  Brewer 

267 

89 

102 

Services 

Philibert  Cortot 

122 

65 

103 

do 

Thos.  Fallon 

129 

35 

104 

do 

Jos.  Verrot 

211 

50 

105 

do 

Oliver  Beaulieu 

122 

65 

106 

Incompleted  entry 
scratched 

107 

Mules  &  horses 

John  A.  Sutter 

2910 

00 

108 

Sundries 

John  A.  Sutter 

981 

93 

109 

do 

C.  W.  Flugge 

237 

25 

110 

Provisions 

Jos.  B.  Chiles 

54 

00 

111 

Services 

Saml.  Neal 

211 

00 

112 

Horses 

Archibald  Sloan 

60 

00 

tll3 

do 

Baptiste  Derosier 

18 

00 

114 

Repairing  Instru- 

ments 

Jaccard  &  Co. 

12 

00 

115 

Horse  shoes 

Milton  E.  McGee 

5 

00 

116 

Mule 

W.  W.  Gett 

45 

00 

117 

Services 

Francis  Parraw 

179 

10 

118 

Sundries 

A.  Robidoux 

86 

00 

119 

Services 

Chas.  Town 

342 

00 

120 

do 

Christopher  Carsor 

I   885 

00 

382 


No.  of 
voucher 

Nature  of  expenditure 

To  whom  paid 

Amount 
Dolls.      Cts. 

tl21 

Mules  &  Horse 

Christopher  Carson 

140 

00 

122 

Services 

Louis  Anderson 

155 

00 

123 

do 

J.  R.  Walker 

165 

00 

124 

Sundries 

Bent,  St.  Vrain 

&  Co. 

251 

00 

125 

Provisions 

E.  T.  Peery 

37 

00 

126 

Transportation  of 
men 

Steamboat  latan 

130 

00 

127 

Services 

Thomas  Cowie 

64 

00 

128 

do 

Louis  Gouin  Admr. 

,  167 

85 

129 

do 

Saml.  H.  Davis 

37 

00 

130 

Repg.  Instruments 

C.  D.  Sullivan  &  Cc 

».     4 

00 

131 
132 

Transportation 
Services 

Chas.  Preuss 
Chas.  Preuss 

216 

2076 

80 
00 

133 

Transportation 

J.  C,  Fremont 

216 

80 

134 

Services 

Jacob  Dodson 

493 

00 

tl35 

Horses 

Wm.  Perkins 

80 

00 

136 

Services 

Wm.  Perkins 

239 

16 

137 

Services 

Louis  Montreuil 

221 

85 

138 

do 

Andreas  Fuentes 

107 

50 

139 

do 

Thos.  Fitzpatrick 

1750 

00 

140 

do 

Alexis  [Ayot 

328 

66 

141 

do 

Tiery   Wright 

410 

83 

142 

tl43 

144 

do 

do  &  provisions 

do 

Raphael  Proue 
Alexis  Godare 
Louis  Zindel 

410 
918 
573 

83 
00 

52 

tl45 
146 

Transportation  &  c. 
Services 

Thos.  Fitzpatrick 
C.  Taplin 

309 
410 

50 
83 

147 

do 

Baptiste  Bernier 

493 

00 

148 

do 

Auguste 

149 
150 
151 

Entry  scratched 
Entry  scratched 
Sundries 

Archambeau[lt 
Robert  Campbell 

190 

5455 

00 
35 

152 

Stationary 

Wm.  Fischer 

26 

39 

153 

Sundries 

Chas.  Preuss 

38 

40 

53092 

38 

383 


No.  of  Amount 

voucher  Nature  of  expenditure  To  whom  paid  Dolls.       Cts. 

154  Services  Theodore  Talbot        986        00 


34078       38 
155  do  Admr.  Francois 

Badeau 
Sep.  19th  1844       387       00 


34465       38'^" 
J.  C.  Fremont 
2d.  Lt.  Topi.  Engr. 

1.  A  delayed  voucher  for  the  daguerreotype  apparatus  purchased  in  New 
York  and  used  on  the  first  expedition  (see  p.  145). 

2.  J.  Eugene  Flandin,  who  had  accompanied  Nicollet  and  JCF  to  the  Min- 
nesota country  in  1838,  was  working  in  his  father's  store  when  JCF  pur- 
chased meats,  bottled  milk,  and  tomato  sauce  in  New  York  for  his  second 
expedition. 

3.  H.  Chilton,  a  daguerreotypist  in  New  York,  to  whom  are  credited  sev- 
eral portraits  in  the  Democratic  Review  (see,  for  example.  Democratic  Re- 
view, 14  [1844],  opp.  p.  447). 

4.  The  telescope  and  two  artificial  horizons  survived  the  hazards  of  the 
expedition,  but  the  two  pocket  compasses,  barometer,  and  five  thermometers 
purchased  of  Frye  &  Shaw,  a  New  York  firm,  were  broken. 

5.  Besides  the  India  rubber  boat,  payment  was  made  in  New  York  to  Hor- 
ace Day  for  such  items  as  a  tent,  water  bottles,  waterproof  cloth,  and  trunks. 

6.  Arthur  Stewart,  of  New  York,  received  $15  for  repairs  for  a  chronometer 
which  had  been  purchased  for  the  first  expedition  (see  p.  140)  and  $200  for  a 
silver  pocket  two-day  chronometer  which  survived  the  hazards  of  the  second 
expedition. 

7.  Payment  was  made  at  Washington,  D.C.,  for  a  large  Swiss  rifle. 

8.  }.  and  B.  Bruce,  of  Cincinnati,  supplied  the  plain  Harrison  wagon  which 
was  abandoned  at  the  Dalles. 

9.  Emory  Low,  on  Maine  Street  between  Third  and  Fourth  in  Louisville, 
supplied  4,000  super  percussion  caps  and  rifle  powder. 

16.  Mocha  coffee. 

24.  Iron  kettles,  tin  buckets,  lanterns,  etc. 

26.  Spades,  nails,  axes,  screws,  fish  lines  and  hooks,  scissors,  etc. 

27.  Instrument  box  and  frame  for  the  India  rubber  boat. 

28.  Goat  skin  trunk. 

29.  For  making  tent  poles. 

30.  The  figure  on  the  original  voucher  is  $21.55. 

31.  Four  French  carts,  pickets,  poles,  and  tent  stretchers.  Overpaid  $0.05. 

35.  Double-barrelled  shotgun. 

36.  Included  three  "best  Spanish  saddles." 

37.  Two  sets  of  cart  harnesses  and  one  chronometer  case  which  became 
broken  and  were  abandoned  at  Walla  Walla. 

38.  For  making  a  tent. 

384 


39.  Three  beaver  traps. 

40.  Spices,  olive  oil,  dried  apples,  and  vinegar. 

41.  The  Marketer's  House  provided  fifteen  men  with  142  meals  at  12^  cents 
per  meal.  Overpaid  $0.03. 

42.  Three  tents  and  one  marquee  made  by  Z.  Prevaud. 

43.  Four  horse  carts. 

44.  Four  mule  carts  and  forty  horse  pickets.  The  twelve  carts  represented 
by  voucher  nos.  31,  43,  and  44  either  broke  down  during  the  journey  or  were 
abandoned  at  the  Walla  Walla  mission. 

45.  For  one  mule,  and  payment  apparently  made  at  Williamsburg  in  Frank- 
lin County,  Kan. 

46.  The  two  pocket  compasses,  ivory  scale,  magnet,  and  two  pairs  of  bellows 
were  either  lost  or  damaged. 

47.  An  ensign  made  to  order. 

49.  One  dozen  plough  lines. 

50.  Fifty  pounds  of  lead. 

51.  Provisions  furnished  JCF's  men  at  Fort  Osage. 

52.  Provisions  furnished  JCF's  men  at  Camden,  17  May  1843, 

53.  Payment  made  in  Boone  County. 

54.  Payment  received  at  Decatur,  Howard  County,  Mo. 

55.  Payment  made  at  Glasgow,  Mo. 

56.  Payment  made  in  Fayette  County,  Mo. 

57.  Passage  was  for  twenty-eight  men,  and  payment  was  made  at  Kansas 
Landing,  18  May  1843. 

58-61.  Payment  made  at  Glasgow,  Mo. 

62.  Payment  made  at  Westport  Landing,  24  May  1843. 

63.  No  place,  but  probably  Westport  Landing.  The  voucher  bears  JCF's 
endorsement:  "When  I  was  on  the  frontier  this  receipt  was  sent  me  by  the 
individual  &  I  had  no  means  of  having  it  properly  corrected  as  he  left  for 
California  immediately  afterwards."  We  cannot  fathom  the  error.  A.  B.  H. 
Magee  has  not  been  identified,  but  a  Milton  E.  McGee  emigrated  to  California 
in  the  Chiles  party  in  1843  and  appears  hereafter  in  JCF's  accounts  for  1844. 

64-65.  Payment  made  at  Westport  Landing,  24  May  1843. 
66.  Payment  made  at  Westport,  Mo. 
67-68.  Payment  made  at  Richmond,  Mo.,  25  May  1843. 
69.  Payment  made  at  Liberty,  Mo.,  25  May  1843. 
70-71.  Payment  made  at  Westport  Landing. 

72.  Payment  made  at  Liberty,  Mo. 

73.  Payment  made  at  Westport  Landing,  27  May  1843. 

74.  No  place  of  payment  given,  but  probably  Westport. 

75.  Payment  made  at  Westport,  Mo.,  29  May  1843. 

Id.  Payment  was  made  at  Westport  for  a  variety  of  articles,  but  $24.69  was 
not  admitted  as  legitimate  expenditure,  being  items  for  the  private  use  of 
individuals,  such  as  moccasins  for  Henry  Lee,  shoes  for  Badeau,  and  a  fur 
cap  and  silk  handkerchief  for  Fitzpatrick. 

77.  Payment  made  in  Jackson  County,  Mo. 

78.  Paid  at  Fort  St.  Vrain  for  services  as  a  voyageur  from  St.  Louis  at  $1.00 
per  diem  for  sixty-six  days,  1  May  1843  to  5  July  1843. 

79.  The  original  voucher  is  for  $396.33.  The  supplies  were  largely  food  and 
attached  to  the  voucher  was  JCF's  explanation:  "Among  the  articles  in  this 
bill  which  may  require  explanation  are  first  brandy  &  wine.  These  were  pur- 


chased  for  medicinal  purposes  &  were  used  accordingly  in  the  severe  weather 
which  the  party  encountered  in  the  winter.  Macaroni  is  one  of  the  best  articles, 
for  such  a  party — it  is  nutritious,  easy  to  transport  &  goes  farther  than  flour. 
Raisins  &■  Almonds  were  taken  to  be  occasionally  distributed  to  the  men  as  in 
the  regular  service,  they  were  however  but  of  little  use,  so  with  the  cheese, 
but  they  were  issued." 

80.  Payment  made  at  Fort  St.  Vrain  for  two  mules  and  one  Spanish 
saddle  and  bridle. 

81.  For  services  as  a  voyageur  from  St.  Louis  to  Fort  St.  Vrain  at  $0.45  per 
diem,  3  May  to  24  July  1843.  Although  William  S.  Clark,  the  son  of  Ransom 
Clark,  maintained  that  his  father  came  to  Oregon  with  JCF,  the  voucher 
would  indicate  that  he  left  the  expedition  at  St.  Vrain's  and  must  have  gone 
to  Oregon  by  some  other  means.  He  became  a  permanent  settler  except  for  a 
season  in  the  California  gold  mines  (w.  s.  clark). 

82.  For  services  as  a  voyageur  from  St.  Louis  to  Fort  St.  Vrain  at  $0.45  per 
diem  for  eighty  days,  from  3  May  to  24  July  1843. 

83-84.  James  and  Thomas  [Jefferson]  Rogers  were  father  and  son  hunters 
■ — either  Delaware  or  Shawnee  Indians — who  went  as  far  as  Fort  St.  Vrain 
and  were  paid  for  their  services  at  $0.66  per  diem  each  for  sixty-one  days,  1 
June  to  31  July  1843. 

85.  Payment  made  at  Fort  St.  Vrain,  26  July  1843. 

86.  Paid  at  Fort  George,  River  Platte,  24  July  1843.  Overcharged  $30.  Also, 
items  to  the  value  of  $40.62  were  held  to  be  for  private  use  and  not  admis- 
sible. 

87.  For  services  as  a  voyageur  at  $0.66f  per  diem  for  493  days,  3  May 
1843  to  6  Sept.  1844. 

88-98.  The  eleven  men  listed  in  these  vouchers  started  with  JCF's  expedi- 
tion, but  turned  back  at  Fort  Hall  on  20  Sept.  All  received  pay  from  3  May 
to  20  Nov.  1843,  which  was  the  time  period  calculated  to  permit  their  return 
to  St.  Louis.  All  were  paid  at  the  rate  of  $0.45  per  diem  except  Basil  and 
Francois  Lajeunesse,  who  received  $0.81|  and  $0.62^  respectively.  A  hawk- 
eyed  auditor  caught  the  fact  that  Francois  had  been  overpaid  by  $0.10. 

99.  For  supplies  of  all  kinds,  ranging  from  food  to  items  of  equipment  re- 
ceived at  Forts  Hall,  Boise,  Nez  Perce',  and  Vancouver.  Included  was  $500 
for  the  amount  credited  to  Frederick  Dwight  at  Vancouver  per  JCF's  order. 
John  McLoughlin  acknowledged  payment  by  draft  of  JCF  on  Abert,  10  Nov. 
1843.  The  $500  to  Frederick  Dwight  was  not  admissible,  of  course,  as  a  charge 
against  the  U.S.;  neither  were  private  items  totaling  $175.40. 

100.  For  a  $4.00  saddle  and  for  services  as  a  voyageur  from  St.  Louis  to  the 
Dalles  at  $0.45  per  diem  for  200  days,  5  May  to  21  Nov.  1843. 

101.  The  supplies  obtained  from  the  missionary  H.  B.  Brewer  at  Wascopam, 
Ore.,  23  Nov.  1843,  included  meal,  potatoes,  flour,  steers,  etc.  A  $2.29  item 
for  John  G.  Campbell  was  not  permitted  as  a  charge  against  the  U.S. 

102.  Cortot  fCourteau]  was  paid  for  services  as  a  voyageur  from  St.  Louis 
to  New  Helvetia,  Calif.,  at  $0.45  per  diem  for  317  days,  3  May  1843  to  14 
March  1844.  His  pay  was  docked  for  forty  lbs.  of  sugar  at  $0.50  per  lb., 
which  he  had  allegedly  stolen  from  the  U.S. 

103.  For  services  as  a  voyageur  from  Fort  St.  Vrain  to  New  Helvetia,  Calif., 
at  $0.45  per  diem  for  123  days,  24  July  to  24  Nov.  1843,  and  at  $0.66^  per 
diem  for  HI  days,  25  Nov.  1843  to  14  March  1844.  For  biographical  details 
on  Fallon,  see  Doc.  No.  137,  p.  453. 

104.  Paid  14  March  1844  for  services  as  a  voyageur  from  St.  Louis  to  New 

386 


Helvetia  at  $0.45  per  diem,  except  from  1  Sept.  1843  to  31   Jan.  1844,  when 
the  per  diem  rate  was  $0.90. 

105.  For  services  as  a  voyageur  from  St.  Louis  to  New  Helvetia  at  $0.45 
per  diem  for  317  days,  3  May  1843  to  14  March  1844.  Like  Courteau,  his  pay 
was  docked  for  forty  lbs.  of  sugar  at  $0.50  per  lb.,  stolen  from  the  U.S. 

107.  $600  of  the  amount  was  paid  at  New  Helvetia,  23  March  1844,  to  Sut- 
ter, at  his  request,  in  the  form  of  a  sight  draft  drawn  in  favor  of  Joseph  B. 
Chiles  on  Robert  Campbell,  of  St.  Louis. 

108.  Payment  was  made  at  New  Helvetia,  23  March  1844,  by  drafts  drawn 
on  Colonel  Abert.  Attached  to  the  voucher  is  JCF's  explanation  of  some  of 
the  items.  "The  silver  plated  bridle  and  sweat  cloth  including  a  saddle  were 
purchased  by  me  from  Capt.  Sutter  for  my  own  use.  It  was  a  good  saddle  &  I 
could  obtain  no  other  good  one;  it  was  necessary  to  have  a  Spanish  bridle  as 
the  horses  we  rode  were  wild  and  unbroken.  Accts.  Thos.  Fallen  [Fallon], 
Joseph  Vereau  [Verrot],  O.  Beaulieu  were  private  accounts.  The  amount  paid 
to  Capt.  Johnson  was  on  account  of  the  United  States  &  was  for  the  hire  of  his 
barge  &  crew  from  Capt.  Sutter's  to  the  town  of  Monterrey.  The  amount  paid 
to  H.  Chase  [for  making  clothing]  was  private.  Amount  paid  to  Mr.  Sinclair 
[buckskin  pants  and  moccasins]  was  private.  Buck-skin  pantaloon's  &  mocas- 
sins for  Jacob  were  private."  A  total  of  $182.93  had  to  be  deducted  as  being 
for  private  use. 

109.  Payment  made  at  New  Helvetia,  23  March  1843,  by  draft  drawn  on 
the  Topographical  Bureau.  $80.25  had  to  be  deducted  as  being  the  value  of 
items  for  private  use. 

1 10.  For  flour;  payment  made  at  New  Helvetia. 

HI.  Paid  for  services  as  a  voyageur  from  St.  Louis  to  New  Helvetia  at 
$0.50  per  diem  for  246  days,  3  May  1843  to  3  Jan.  1844,  and  at  $1.00  per  diem 
for  88  days,  4  Jan.  to  31  March  1844. 

113.  Payment  made  at  St.  Louis,  8  May  1843. 

115.  This  item,  dated  17  May  1844,  was  for  one  pair  of  horseshoes,  pur- 
chased "on  the  trail  from  California." 

116.  Payment  was  made  at  Glasgow,  Mo.,  19  May  1843. 

117.  Francis  Parraw  [Francois  Perrault)  was  paid  at  Uintah  Fort  for  services 
as  a  voyageur  at  $0.45  per  diem  for  398  days,  3  May  1843  to  3  June  1844. 

118.  Purchases  made  at  Uintah  Fort,  4  June  1844.  $15  had  to  be  deducted 
as  being  the  value  of  items  for  private  use. 

119.  Paid  at  "The  Pueblo"  for  services  as  an  assistant  hunter  at  $1.00  per 
diem  for  342  days,  25  July  1843  to  29  June  1844.  Overpaid  by  $1.  See  also 
p.  446. 

120.  Paid  at  Bent's  Fort  as  a  hunter  at  $2.00  per  diem  for  354  days,  15 
July  1843  to  2  July  1844. 

121.  Purchase  made  at  Bent's  Fort,  2  July  1844. 

122.  "For  services  {unspecified]  rendered  to  United  States  from  'Lesser 
Youta  Lake'  to  Ft.  William  [Bent's  Fort],  Arkansas  R.,"  at  $2.50  per  diem 
for  forty-two  days,  25  May  to  5  July  1844,  plus  an  allowance  of  pay  for 
twenty  days  to  return  to  the  "Snake  District." 

123.  For  services  as  a  guide  from  "The  Lesser  Youta  Lake"  to  "Ft.  William, 
Arkansas  R."  at  $2.50  per  diem  for  forty-two  days,  25  May  to  5  July  1844, 
plus  an  allowance  of  twenty  days'  pay  to  return  to  the  "Snake  District."  Fre- 
mont also  purchased  two  pair  of  horseshoes  from  Walker  at  $5.00  per  pair 
(see  pp.  693  and  720). 

387 


124.  Payment  made  at  Bent's  Fort,  Arkansas  River,  5  July  1844.  $141.00 
had  to  be  deducted  as  being  the  value  of  items  for  private  use. 

125.  Furnished  at  the  Shawnee  Indian  Manual  Labor  School,  Leavenworth 
agency,  31  July  1844. 

127.  For  services  as  a  voyageur  from  Uintah  Fort  to  St.  Louis  at  $1.00  per 
diem  for  sixty-four  days,  5  June  to  7  Aug.  1844.  For  biographical  details  of 
Cowie,  see  second  Report,  our  p.  706. 

128.  Received  by  Louis  Guion,  as  administrator  of  Tabeau's  estate,  for  Jean 
Baptiste  Tabeau's  services  as  a  voyageur  at  $0.45  per  diem  for  373  days,  3 
May  1843  to  9  May  1844.  Tabeau  was  killed  by  the  Indians  (see  p.  690).  In 
the  abstract  for  voucher  no.  2  of  the  fourth  quarter  of  1844,  p.  390,  Tabeau's 
estate  was  paid  an  additional  $150.72  for  the  period  from  his  death  to  6  Sept. 
1844,  but  the  government  did  not  recognize  this  as  a  legitimate  payment  and 
seems  to  have  held  JCF  responsible  for  the  illegal  payment  (see  note  on  ab- 
stract of  disbursements  for  quarter  ending  31  Dec.  1844). 

129.  Paid  at  St.  Louis  for  services  as  a  voyageur  at  $1.00  per  diem  for 
thirty-seven  days,  4  July  to  9  Aug.  1844. 

131.  Paid  at  Washington,  D.C. 

132.  Paid  at  Washington  for  services  as  a  topographical  assistant  at  $4.00 
per  diem  for  519  days,  1  April  1843  to  31  Aug.  1844. 

133.  For  transportation  of  JCF's  baggage  from  Washington  to  Westport, 
18  April  to  17  May  1843,  and  from  Westport  to  Washington,  2  Aug.  to  25 
Aug.  1844.  Payment  made  at  Washington. 

134.  Paid  at  Washington,  D.C,  for  services  as  a  voyageur  from  St.  Louis 
for  the  round  trip  at  $1.00  per  diem  for  493  days,  3  May  1843  to  6  Sept.  1844. 
Dodson  was  JCF's  Negro  servant. 

135.  Payment  made  at  Washington,  D.C,  for  two  horses  sold  at  the  Dalles, 
25  Nov.  1843. 

136.  Paid  at  Washington,  D.C,  for  services  as  a  voyageur  from  the  Dalles 
at  $0.83^  per  diem  for  287  days,  25  Nov.  1843  to  6  Sept.  1844.  The  William 
Perkins  in  this  voucher  and  the  one  above  is  probably  William,  the  Chinook 
Indian  boy  (see  Doc.  Nos.  124  and  128).  It  would  be  unusual  for  a  voyageur 
to  go  all  the  way  to  Washington  with  Fremont.  William  Perkins  went  west 
again  with  JCF  in  1845  and  was  discharged  as  a  voyageur  at  Johnson's  ranch, 
Upper  Calif.,  16  June  1847  (DNA-217,  T-135,  Roll  1,  voucher  no.  224). 
On  several  occasions  Talbot  mentioned  William,  the  Chinook  Indian,  as  being 
on  the  third  expedition  (see  Talbot  to  Adelaide  Talbot,  26  May,  25  June,  and 
3  July  1845,  in  the  Talbot  Papers,  DLC). 

137.  For  services  as  a  voyageur  for  the  round  trip  at  $0.45  per  diem  for 
493  days,  3  May  1843  to  6  Sept.  1844. 

138.  For  services  as  a  voyageur  at  $0.83^  per  diem  for  129  days,  1  May 
to  6  Sept.  1844.  Fuentes  was  picked  up  on  the  Spanish  Trail  (p.  677). 

139.  For  services  as  guide  for  the  round  trip  at  $3.33^  per  diem  for  525 
days,  1  April  1843  to  6  Sept.  1844. 

140.  For  services  as  a  voyageur  for  the  round  trip  at  $0.66f  per  diem  for 
493  days,  3  May  1843  to  6  Sept.  1844. 

141.  For  services  as  a  voyageur  for  the  round  trip  at  $0.83^  per  diem  for 
493  days  from  3  May  1843  to  6  Sept.  1844. 

142.  For  services  as  a  voyageur  for  the  round  trip  at  $0.83^  per  diem  for  493 
days,  3  May  1843  to  6  Sept.  1844. 

143.  Paid  at  St.  Louis,  $820  for  services  as  a  hunter  at  $2.00  per  diem  for 
410  days,  25  July  1843  to  6  Sept.  1844.  $80  of  the  sum  was  for  a  mule  which 

388 


Godey  sold  to  the  expedition  at  the  South  Fork  of  the  Platte  on  26  July;  $18 
was  for  pinoli  (ground  and  parched  meal)  and  dried  meat  sold  to  the  expedi- 
tion on  25  May  1844  (for  other  sales  by  Godey,  see  voucher  no.  80  above). 

144.  For  services  as  a  voyageur  for  the  round  trip  at  $1.16  per  diem  for  493 
days,  3  May  1843  to  6  Sept.  1844. 

145.  JCF  notes  that  "the  item  of  $109.50  was  the  amount  of  expenses  made 
by  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  for  board  &  lodging  of  a  party  of  men  &  a  drove  of  horses 
conducted  by  himself  under  my  orders  from  the  City  of  Saint  Louis  to  the 
frontier  town  of  Westport.  The  horses  mentioned  in  the  bill  [$200]  were  the 
private  property  of  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  &  purchased  from  him  [at  the  South  Fork 
of  the  Platte  River  on  24  July  1843]  for  the  United  States." 

146.  For  the  round  trip  at  $0.80^  per  diem  for  493  days,  3  May  1843  to  6 
Sept.  1844.  Overpaid  by  $14.79. 

147.  Bernier,  who  had  been  on  the  first  expedition,  made  the  complete 
trip  and  received  pay  for  services  as  a  voyageur  at  $1.00  per  diem  for  493 
days,  3  May  1843  to  6  Sept.  1844. 

148.  For  services  as  a  voyageur  and  assistant  hunter  from  Uintah  Fort  to 
St.  Louis  at  $2.00  per  diem  for  95  days,  4  June  to  6  Sept.  1844. 

151.  $1,111.43,  actually  $1,101.93  as  $9.50  was  overcredited,  purchased  goods 
which  JCF  stated  were  "used  in  making  presents  to  the  Indians  to  facilitate 
our  passage  through  the  country  according  to  the  usual  custom  and  in  trading 
with  them  for  horses,  provisions  &  other  necessaries  &  in  paying  guides.  At 
the  missionary  post  at  The  Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  I  purchased  with  a  portion 
of  these  goods  thirty-seven  horses  from  the  Walla  Walla  Indians.  At  $40  per 
head  (this  being  the  lowest  current  price  for  horses)  these  amounted  to 
$1480."  $4,353.42  of  the  total  was  either  for  goods  furnished  to  members  of 
JCF's  expedition  or  money  which  Campbell  paid  to  individuals  or  firms  who 
supplied  equipment  for  the  expedition. 

152.  Purchased  at  Washington,  D.C.,  9  Sept.  1844. 

153.  Paid  at  Washington,  D.C.,  10  Sept.  1844,  for  purchase  of  small  items 
before  the  start  of  the  expedition. 

154.  Paid  at  Washington  for  services  on  the  round  trip  at  $2.00  per  diem 
for  493  days,  3  May  1843  to  6  Sept.  1844. 

155.  For  services  as  a  voyageur  from  St.  Louis  until  his  accidental  death,  at 
$1.00  per  diem  for  387  days,  3  May  1843  to  23  May  1844.  By  signed  duplicates, 
Badeau's  widow  Angeline,  with  her  mark,  and  Louis  Guion,  administrator 
of  the  estate,  acknowledged  receipt  of  the  money. 

156.  The  sum,  based  on  the  figures  as  transcribed  in  this  document,  should 
read  $34,464.78.  The  column  has  been  overadded  by  $0.60,  a  mistake  which 
JCF's  auditor  caught.  As  noted  earlier,  voucher  nos.  30  and  79  were  recorded 
incorrecdy,  but  the  incorrect  figures  are  used  for  the  purpose  of  addition  and 
the  document  is  kept  with  all  of  its  original  figures  and  errors. 

The  endorsement  on  the  face  of  the  document  indicates  that  the  "over- 
added,"  the  "overpaid,"  "personal  items,"  and  $4,353.42  of  voucher  no.  151 — 
all  enumerated  in  the  notes  above — amounted  to  a  total  of  $5,562.17,  leaving  a 
balance  of  $28,903.21.  In  addition  $310  and  $981.93,  represented  by  unpaid 
drafts  to  Sutter,  were  deducted  from  voucher  nos.  107  and  108,  leaving  a  final 
balance  of  $27,611.28  for  the  quarters  represented  by  the  abstract.  Thus  the 
total  of  $34,465.38  appears  to  be  the  cost  of  the  second  expedition.  It  is  not 
entirely  clear  from  the  surviving  documents,  however,  exactly  how  much  of 
this  total  was  eventually  cleared  from  JCF's  account  and  paid  by  the  govern- 
ment. 

389 


Another  voucher  pertinent  to  this  second  expedition,  but  not  given  until 
3  June  1845,  reflects  an  advanced  payment  of  $45  to  Therese  Derosier.  Her 
husband  had  wandered  from  the  expedition's  camp  in  California  and  was 
presumed  to  be  dead.  When  Derosier  subsequently  showed  up  in  St.  Louis, 
he  was  paid  the  balance  of  $381  due  him  (see  DNA-217,  T-135,  Roll  1, 
voucher  nos.  146  [3  June  1845]  and  301  [12  March  1846]). 


Abstract  of  Disbursements  on  Accomit  of  Military  and  Geograph- 
ical Surveys  West  of  the  Mississippi  for  the  Quarter  Ending  31 

Dec.  1844 


No.  of 

voucher 

Nature  of  payment 

To  whom  paid 

Amount 
Dollars     Cents 

1 

Services  as  Packman 

William  Martin 

98       25 

2 

"       as  voyageur 

Louis  Gouin, 
admr. 

150       72 

3 
4 
5 

Lining  maps  &c. 
Binding  book 
Books 

John  A.  Blake 
Robt.  Connell 
John  Downes 

6       00 

75 

10       00 

265       72 

1.  For  services  as  a  packman  from  New  Helvetia  to  the  western  frontier  of 
Missouri  at  $0.75  per  diem  for  131  days,  21  March  to  29  July  1844.  William  J. 
Martin,  a  member  of  the  Oregon  emigration  group  of  1843,  which  had  also 
included  Jesse  Applegate  and  Peter  H.  Burnett,  Joined  Joseph  B.  Chiles'  party 
at  Fort  Hall  to  travel  by  horseback  to  California,  and  reached  Sutter's  Fort  on 
10  Nov.  1843.  A  voucher  submitted  much  later  by  JCF  indicates  that  he  sold 
the  exploring  party  flour  and  skin  sacks  on  23  March  1844,  two  days  after 
joining  the  expedition  for  the  return  to  Missouri.  In  1846,  Martin  went  west 
again  and  settled  permanently  in  Oregon.  In  1853,  he  served  as  Indian  agent 
in  the  Umpqua  Valley,  and  in  1855  as  major  of  the  volunteer  northern  bat- 
talion in  the  Rogue  River  Indian  War  (barry,  29:463,  470,  30:344-45;  coan, 
33;  H.  ROBBiNs,  345-58). 

2.  With  regard  to  this  entry  a  note  on  the  voucher  reads:  "This  Vo.  No. 
2,  being  wholly  suspended,  was  returned  to  R.  Burgess,  attorney  for  Colo. 
Fremont,  28  June  1849  per  letter  of  that  date."  Tabeau's  estate  had  already 
been  paid  for  his  services  to  the  date  of  his  death  (see  voucher  no.  128,  p. 
383).  Even  if  compensation  had  been  permitted  for  his  widow  until  the  time 
of  the  discharge  of  the  men  in  St.  Louis,  the  amount  would  have  been  only 
$53.55. 

3.  Paid  at  Washington,  D.C.,  7  Sept.  1844. 

4.  Paid  at  Washington,  D.C.,  20  Sept.  1844. 

5.  Paid  at  Washington,  D.C.,  25  Nov.  1844. 


390 


96.  Asa  Gray  to  John  Torrey 

Saturday  Morning  [1845] 
Dear  Doctor, 

•  •  •  • 

I  have  just  turned  over  the  Fremontian  plants  you  send.  The 
Malpighiaceae  you  send  are  not  those  fixd.  by  Bentham — and  I 
should  suppose  not  Malpighiaceae  at  all.  I  will  look  at  them  and  the 
CEnothera's — some  of  which  are  new. 

As  to  the  Cruciferous  plant,  the  trifoliate  leaves  should  not  stand 
in  the  way.  Look  at  Cardamines  and  Dentarias.  And  your  plant  is  I 
doubt  not  from  recollection  of  the  figure  (which  is  not  before  me) 
a  Dithraea  perhaps  D.  Californica,  Harvey.  That  however  had  a  reg- 
ular terminal  raceme,  rather  low.  Is  yours  in  the  natural  state  ?  Or  do 
the  dense  axil[lary]  clusters  come  from  the  top  having  been  bitten 
off? 

•  •  •  • 

Yours  ever, 

A.Gray 

ALS,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 


97.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  City  Jany.  12th.  1845 
My  Dear  Sir, 

On  Thursday  last  I  sent  by  the  transportation  line  a  box  of  fossils 
for  Dr.  Hall.  The  Agent  informed  me  that  it  would  be  in  New 
York  to-morrow  but  I  could  not  learn  whether  it  would  be  sent  to 
Mr.  Endicott's^  or  whether  it  was  necessary  to  send  for  it.  I  enclose 
a  brief  note  relative  to  them  which  can  be  extended  if  it  should  be 
of  use.  The  names  which  I  have  affixed  to  some  of  the  vegetable 
fossils,  depend  only  on  my  own  knowledge  as  there  is  no  one  here 
to  whom  I  could  refer  for  the  least  information  on  the  subject,  there- 
fore Dr.  Hall  will  know  what  weight  to  give  them.  If  it  would  not 


391 


be  troublesome  to  him  I  would  be  glad  to  have  them  again  as  this 
year  I  shall  visit  the  same  localities  in  order  to  examine  as  closely 
as  I  am  able  the  interesting  geology  of  that  country.  He  had  better 
break  up  one  of  the  large  specimens  as  he  u^ill  find  several  different 
varieties  of  plants.  Some  of  these  appear  to  be  entirely  new.  I  would 
have  been  glad  to  send  him  all  the  different  specimens  of  rocks  in 
order  that  the  little  notice  that  I  could  make  of  the  Geology  on  this 
occasion  might  depend  on  his  authority — and  I  am  afraid  to  ask  too 
much  of  him. 

It  will  be  quite  a  pleasure  to  hear  from  you  whenever  you  find 
time.  I  hope  that  in  the  midst  of  your  labors  your  health  has  been 
good  which  has  not  been  altogether  the  case  with  me.  In  fact  my  ill 
health  has  taken  away  much  of  the  energy  so  necessary  for  my 
work,  which  will  account  to  you  for  my  not  having  sent  the  speci- 
mens before. 

In  the  box  I  sent  you  a  cone  belonging  to  the  tree  from  which  I 
sent  you  the  nuts  or  seeds.  You  will  find  one  of  these  contained  under 
each  of  the  scales.  I  also  put  in  the  box  a  mutilated  cone  from  what 
I  supposed  to  be  Pinus  Lambertinai — leaves  about  2  inches  long — in 
fives.  Cones  6  or  7  inches  long.  Yours  very  truly, 

J.  C.  Fremont 


ALS-JBF,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 

1.  Probably  George  Endicott  (1802-48),  New  York  engraver,  though  some- 
time in  1845  he  was  joined  by  his  younger  brother  William.  These  lithog- 
raphers did  the  original  drawings  for  the  botanical  illustrations  and  engraved 
eight  of  the  plates  on  stone  (voucher  no.  232  [16  March  1848],  DNA-217, 
T-135,  shows  that  G.  and  W.  Endicott  were  paid  $95.75  for  work  done  in 
1845). 


98.  Asa  Gray  to  John  Torrey 


Monday  [12  Jan.  1845.?] 
My  dear  friend, 

Thanks  for  the  numbers  from  Fremont's  list;  which  came  to  hand 
just  as  the  proofs  were  lying  before  me. 


392 


Have  you  not  made  a  mistake  about  No.  414  (1843)  "Encamp- 
ment on  the  Arkansaw"  &c. — and  copied  from  the  1844  Hst?  The 
plant  is  not  a  shrub,  but  a  low  herb.  (Pyrrocoma).^  *Did  Fremont 
go  up  the  Arkansaw  on  his  way  out  ? 

Save  me  specimens,  when  they  will  bear  it,  from  Fremont's  plants. 
At  the  first  collection  (except  compositae)  I  only  shared  after  Carey! 


I  remain  faithfully  yours, 

A.Gray 

ALS,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence).  Torrey's  note,  added  to  the 
bottom  of  the  letter,  reads:  *"The  reference  in  my  letter  is  correct.  Fremont 
does  not  call  the  plant  'a  shrub' — but  says  it  forms  'bushes' — which  may  mean 
an  herbaceous  plant  with  a  bushy  look — (like  Lespedeza).  He  went  up  the 
Arkansaw  on  his  way  out." 

1.  Plant  evidently  described  as  Aplopappus  jremontii  by  Gray  in  1864. 


99.  J.  J.  Abert  to  John  }.  Audubon 


[22  Jan.  1845] 
My  DEAR  Sir: 

There  was  no  zoologist  with  Freemont.  The  expedition  was  bar- 
ren except  in  its  geographical.  Geological  &  Botanical  materials.  I 
mean  to  have  the  next  managed  better  in  these  respects  &  to  have 
some  one  with  it  who  will  attend  to  birds  &  beasts — we  have  now  a 
clever  young  man  here  taking  lessons  in  skinning  birds  and  ascer- 
taining their  sex^  although  nothing  new  may  be  found  in  these 
branches,  yet  it  is  highly  desirable  to  multiply  Specimens.  If  you  can 
give  any  hints  from  your  experience  in  those  regions  of  the  best 
method  of  preserving  skins  &  of  transporting  them,  you  will  much 
oblige  me.  Most  kindly  to  the  family  and  truly  yours, 

J.  J.  Abert 
22  Jan.  1845 

Copy  (MoSHi — Audubon  Papers).  A  letter  to  Abert  from  ornithologist 
John  J.  Audubon,  written  in  Dec.  1844  or  Jan.  1845,  was  not  found  among  the 


393 


"letters  received"  of  the  Topographical  Bureau,  but  neither  was  Abert's  reply 
to  Audubon  recorded  in  the  letterbook. 

1.  The  name  of  the  "clever  young  man  .  .  .  taking  lessons  in  skinning 
birds"  is  not  known.  John  Kirk  Townsend  (1809-51)  was  at  work  in  the 
Great  Hall  of  the  Patent  Office  on  bird  skins  in  1841,  when  the  botanical 
specimens  were  arriving  from  the  U.S.  Exploring  Expedition,  but  in  1843,  as 
a  result  of  controversies  between  the  National  Institution  and  Captain  Wilkes, 
Townsend  was  discharged  (dab;  graustein,  357-58).  He  then  obtained  from 
JCF  some  temporary  employment,  1  Dec.  1844-8  March  1845,  at  $2  per  day, 
copying  tables  and  astronomical  observations  (DNA-217,  T-135,  voucher  no. 
13,  8  March  1845).  Sometime  in  1845  Townsend  went  back  to  Philadelphia 
to  study  dentistry.  It  is  unlikely  that  Abert  would  refer  to  the  author  of 
Ornithology  of  the  United  States  of  America  as  a  "clever  young  man,"  par- 
ticularly when  writing  to  Audubon,  who  had  pictured  some  of  Townsend's 
new  birds  from  Oregon  in  the  last  volume  of  Birds  of  America  (New  York, 
1844). 


100.  Asa  Gray  to  John  Torrey 

Tuesday  Evening.  28th  Jany.  [1845] 
My  Dear  Friend, 

•  •  •  • 

I  have  today  written  to  Hooker,  directing  his  attention  to  your  full 
account  of  the  plant — enquiring  w^hether  Fremontia  has  not  the 
priority,  and  requesting  Hooker,  at  any  rate  to  reprint  your  ac- 
count of  the  plant,  as  it  completes  its  history.  I  do  not  see  that  Lind- 
ley  adds  anything  even  to  what  they  knew  abroad,  for  Schlechtendal 
in  Bot.  Zeit.  says  it  is  Hooker's  Batis  vermicularis. 

•  •  •  • 

There  must  be  some  mistake  in  the  numbering  of  the  No.  414. 
Fremont.  It  is  a  very  low  herb — a  new  Pyrrocoma — which  it  is  new 
to  find  on  this  side  of  the  Rocky  Mts. — tho'  not  surprising.  I  let 
the  locality  slip  by  without  mentioning  it,  in  my  little  paper — of 
which  I  will  send  a  copy  in  a  few  days. 

Excuse  this  way  of  writing.  Goodnight.  Yours  ever. 

A.  Gray 

ALS,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 

394 


101.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  City  February  7th.  1845 
My  Dear  Sir, 

This  will  be  handed  to  you  by  Dr.  James  McDowell  son  of  the 
Govr.  of  Virginia  who  is  to  accompany  me  as  surgeon  in  my  next 
expedition.  My  Report  is  about  to  be  ordered  in  the  Senate  and  as  I 
am  obliged  to  publish  it  before  I  go  I  know  you  will  not  feel  yourself 
urged  if  I  beg  you  to  assist  me  by  giving  what  information  you  can 
relative  to  the  botany  of  the  country  in  order  that  I  may  give  to  it  as 
much  interest  &  value  as  possible  &  in  some  degree  proportioned  to 
the  interest  which  has  been  raised  in  regard  to  it.  Mr.  McDowell 
happening  to  have  a  few  days  of  leisure  I  prevailed  on  him  to  go 
to  New  York  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  as  he  could  better  explain  to 
you  than  I  how  much  pressed  I  am  for  time  &  how  much  indebted 
I  would  be  for  your  assistance. 

There  will  be  about  10,000  copies  of  the  Report  ordered — &  as  it 
will  be  widely  disseminated  I  am  exceedingly  anxious  it  will  go 
out  with  every  advantage  our  limited  time  can  give  us.  Very  truly 

yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 

1.  Dr.  James  McDowell  was  the  nephew  of  Mrs.  Thomas  Hart  Benton.  His 
wife,  the  daughter  of  Joshua  B.  and  Sarah  Benton  Brant,  was  the  great-niece 
of  Thomas  Hart  Benton.  Young  McDowell,  who  had  been  practicing  medi- 
cine in  St.  Louis,  was  described  by  Alfred  Waugh,  the  artist  who  wanted  so 
much  to  join  JCF's  third  expedition,  as  being  "a  tall,  well  made  young  man, 
with  rather  a  handsome  face,  of  a  good  healthy  complexion,  and  pleasant 
countenance"  (waugh,  9,  18). 


102.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington  Feby.  12.  1845 

Brevet  Captain  J.  C.  Fremont  of  the  Corps  of  Topographical  Engi- 
neers, is  hereby  assigned  to  command  and  direction  of  the  contem- 

395 


plated  expedition  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  He  is  assigned  thereto, 
according  to  his  brevet  rank,  and  the  pay  and  allowances  of  his 
brevet  rank  are  hereby  recognized,  by  order  of  the  Secretary  of  War 
in  this  order  of  assignment. 

Two  Lieutenants  of  the  Corps  will  also  be  assigned  to  the  duty.^ 
As  a  Commutation  for  transportation,  fuel  and  quarters,  Captain 
Fremont  will  receive  $1.50  per  day,  and  each  Lieutenant  one  dollar 
per  day.  This  commutation  to  commence  on  the  arrival  of  each  at 
Independence,  Missouri,  and  to  continue  during  the  duties  in  the 
field,  to  be  paid  out  of  the  appropriation  for  the  expedition  and  sur- 
vey. 

Mr.  Talbott  formerly  with  the  expedition  can  be  employed  at  two 
dollars  per  day,  and  Mr.  McDowell  as  surgeon  and  Physician,  at  a 
compensation  of  three  dollars  per  day.  These  allowances  to  com- 
mence on  the  date  of  their  orders  from  Captain  Fremont.  Ten  cents 
per  mile  for  transportation  can  be  paid  to  each  of  these  persons 
from  Washington  to  Independence,  Missouri,  and  back  to  Washing- 
ton on  the  termination  of  the  expedition,  provided  said  back  trans- 
portation shall  not  exceed  the  distance  from  Independence,  Mo.  to 
Washington.  No  other  persons  will  be  employed  except  as  engagees 
and  hired  men,  unless  on  the  special  representation  of  Captain  Fre- 
mont by  letter  to  the  Bureau,  and  the  approval  of  the  War  Depart- 
ment.^ The  engagees  and  hired  men  of  the  expedition  will  not 
exceed  fifty .^ 

The  general  outline  of  Captain  Fremont's  duties  are  indicated  in 
the  annual  report  from  this  office.  He  will  strike  the  Arkansas  as 
soon  as  practicable,  survey  that  river,  and  if  practicable  survey  the 
Red  River  without  our  boundary  line,  noting  particularly  the  navi- 
gable properties  of  each,  and  will  determine  as  near  as  practicable 
the  points  at  which  the  boundary  line  of  the  U.  S.  the  100th  degree 
of  longitude  west  of  Greenwich  strikes  the  Arkansas,  and  the  Red 
River.  It  is  also  important  that  the  Head  waters  of  the  Arkansas 
should  be  accurately  determined.  Long  journies  to  determine  iso- 
lated geographical  points  are  scarcely  worth  the  time  and  the  expense 
which  they  occasion;  the  efforts  of  Captain  Fremont  will  therefore 
be  more  particularly  directed  to  the  geography  of  localities  within 
reasonable  distance  of  Bents  Fort,  and  of  the  streams  which  run  east 
from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  he  will  so  time  his  operations,  that 
his  party  will  come  in  during  the  present  year. 

All  specimens  collected  by  the  expedition,  will  be  preserved  and 

396 


brought  to  Washington,  subject  to  the  ulterior  orders  of  the  War 
Department;  and  all  reports  will  be  delivered  to  Captain  Fremont; 
no  publications  will  be  permitted  by  any  of  the  party,  except  in  the 
report  from  Captain  Fremont. 

Captain  Fremont  is  hereby  authorized  to  draw  upon  the  Depart- 
ment, as  the  duties  shall  require  means. 

J.  J.  Abert 
Col.  Corps  T.E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  8:211-13).  Some  of  the  documents  following  this  one 
deal  wholly  or  in  part  with  JCF's  projected  third  expedition,  which  will  carry 
him  west  again  in  1845.  As  he  was  planning  the  third  while  cleaning  up  paper 
work  on  the  second,  we  have  retained  such  documents  to  preserve  chronologi- 
cal unity. 

1.  See  Doc.  No.  118  (10  April  1845),  notifying  JCF  that  Lieuts.  James  W. 
Abert  and  William  Guy  Peck  were  ordered  to  report  to  him. 

2.  See  Doc.  No.  106  (5  March  1845),  approving  the  employment  of  a 
"Botannical  Colourist"  for  the  expedition. 

3.  See  Doc.  No.  105  (1  March  1845),  noting  that  an  error  had  been  made 
and  that  the  engages  and  hired  men  of  the  expedition  were  not  to  exceed 
forty.  On  10  April,  JCF  was  given  permission  to  detach  a  party  to  explore  the 
southern  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  regions  south  of  the  Arkansas,  and  to 
increase  his  party  by  ten  men;  on  26  May,  he  was  given  greater  discretion  as 
to  the  size  of  the  party,  should  he  find  it  advantageous  to  make  detachments 
from  his  command  (see  Doc.  Nos.  118  and  136). 


103.   Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  City  Feby.  26th  1845 
My  Dear  Sir, 

Will  you  have  the  kindness  to  forward  to  Prof.  Hall,  a  box  which 
I  have  sent  to  Mr.  Endicott.  I  have  the  pleasure  to  hear  from  Dr. 
Hall,  who  is  getting  on  well  with  the  fossils. 

I  enclose  a  form  of  the  receipts  used  by  the  Department  &  if  [you] 
will  please  have  it  receipted  for  amount  paid  in  the  transportation  of 
the  boxes  I  will  send  on  the  draft  immediately. 

I  send  you  a  fragment  of  the  Californian  poppy,  as  I  suppose  it  to 
be,  Eschscholtzia  Crocea. 

I  suppose  the  specimens  were  so  much  injured  that  even  this  may 
help.  I  will  send  you  in  an  envelope  this  evening  a  few  plants  which 
I  have  found  among  my  books — &  which  were  forgotten,  (Campa- 

397 


nula  meda)  ?  Rocky  Mts.  abundant.  (Viola  Canina?)  Rocky  Mts. 
A  strawberry  Rocky  Mts.  In  addition  to  the  above  will  be  a  fragment 
(all  that  is  left)  of  a  very  interesting  leguminous  plant  with  a  deep 
yellow  flower.  It  is  highly  characteristic  in  certain  portions  of  the 
Rocky  Mt.  region. 

The  plants  will  come  in  a  public  document. 

I  have  also  some  additional  seed  vessels  of  the  new  Accacia  if  you 
desire  them — You  will  have  to  search  carefully  in  order  to  find  the 
plants.  Yours  truly, 

}.  C.  Fremont 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 


104.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

367.  1844  A  remarkable  species.  Without  cones.  Probably  a  Pinus 
though  the  leaves  are  almost  all  solitary! — only  two  or 
three  being  found  double  in  the  same  sheath. 

Washington  City  Feby.  26.  1845. 

My  Dear  Sir, 

In  looking  over  the  list  of  plants  the  words  which  I  have  under- 
scored in  the  above  struck  me  for  the  first  time  to-day,  &  I  [have] 
to  tell  you  that  in  the  first  box  of  fossils  which  I  sent  some  weeks 
ago  to  Dr.  Hall,  was  a  cone  for  you  in  good  preservation  belonging 
to  that  tree.  As  there  were  many  specimens  of  the  same  tree  the  cone 
was  probably  referred  to  another  number.  I  also  sent  you  some  fruit 
or  seeds  of  the  same  in  a  letter.  I  am  very  much  interested  in  this 
particular  tree.  Among  the  plants  was  a  small  bundle  or  sheaf  of 
sweet  scented  grass  from  Grand  [Colorado]  river  of  the  Rocky  Mts.^ 
It  was  not  labelled.  Can  you  tell  me  its  name  ?  Can  you  tell  me  the 
botanic  name  of  what  is  commonly  called  in  the  west  Bufifalo  grass  ? 
A  very  short  succulent  curled  grass  having  a  small  reddish  blossom. 
Yours  very  truly, 

J.  C.  Fremont 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 
1.  Hierochloe  odorata  (L.)  Beauv.  Sweetgrass. 

398 


105.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 


Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington  March  1.  1845 
Sir 

I  find  an  error  in  my  letter  to  you  of  the  12th  February.  It  is 
there  said  that  "the  engagees  &  hired  men  of  the  expedition  will  not 
exceed  fifty."  I  cannot  account  for  this  error,  as  the  understanding 
between  us  was  that  the  number  of  this  class  should  not  exceed 
forty.  You  will  please  therefore  to  understand  this  number  as  limited 
to  forty.  Respectfully  Sir  Your  Obt.  Servt., 

J.  J.  Abert 
Col.  Corps.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  8:234). 


106.  }.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 


Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington  March  5.  1845 
Sir, 

I  have  submitted  your  letter  of  the  5th  inst.  to  the  Secretary  of 
War  and  in  reply  have  to  state  that  the  Secretary  approves  of  the 
employment  of  a  Botanical  Colourist  for  the  expedition  at  a  com- 
pensation of  three  dollars  the  day.^  You  are  therefore  hereby  au- 
thorized to  employ  one.  Very  Respectfully  Your  Obt.  Servt., 

J.  J.  Abert 
Col.  Corps.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  8:236). 

L  JCF's  letter  of  5  March  not  found,  but  the  register  indicates  that  it  had 
merely  recommended  the  employment  of  a  botanical  colorist  at  $3  per  day. 


399 


107.  Fremont  to  George  Talcott 


Washington  City  March  10th  1845 
Dear  Sir, 

Dr.  James  McDowell  of  Virginia,  who  has  been  appointed  Sur- 
geon to  the  Expedition  will  also  act  incidentally  as  Naturalist.  Sev- 
eral gentlemen  of  distinguished  science  from  various  parts  of  the 
country,  have  made  application  to  accompany  the  Expedition,  but 
considering  the  appropriation  as  purely  for  Geographical  purposes, 
the  Department  has  declined  making  any  such  appointments.  Very 
respectfully  Sir  Your  Obdt.  Servt., 

J.  C.  Fremont 
Col.  G.  Talcott 
Ordnance  Dept. 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (DNA-156,  LR,  lO-F-1845).  Endorsed,  "Returns  letter  of 
J.  Eights  .  .  ."  with  summary  of  letter.  James  Eights,  M.D.  (1798-1882),  son 
of  Jonathan  Eights,  was  a  member  of  the  Albany  Institute  and  a  friend  of 
John  Torrey. 


108.   Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

[Thursday  night,  13  March  1845] 
My  Dear  Sir, 

I  have  this  moment,  near  midnight,  received  your  pacquet  & 
thanking  you  very  warmly  en  passant  for  it  I  hasten  to  tell  you  that 
looking  first  at  the  end  of  your  letter  I  was  surprised  to  find  the  Doc- 
ument on  Coals  which  reached  you  contained  no  plants.  They  were 
very  carefully  put  between  uncut  leaves,  &  most  of  them  were  in 
brown  paper  envelopes.  Did  you  first  open  the  Document  yourself 
or  could  it  have  been  opened  previously  ?  They  were  enclosed  in  the 
Report  on  Coals  as  Col.  Benton  thought  it  would  be  agreeable  to 
you  to  look  over  it.  I  will  write  to  you  again  soon  &  in  the  meantime 
remain  very  truly  yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont 
Thursday  night  March  13th.  [1845] 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 

400 


109.  Fremont  to  [Edward  M.  Kern] 

Washington  City  March  20th.  1845 
Dear  Sm, 

I  had  already  decided,  before  seeing  Mr.  GHddon^  to  give  you  the 
appointment  of  artist  to  our  expedition.  I  have  great  confidence  in 
the  judgment  of  Mr.  Drayton,"  who  knows  perfectly  well  what 
qualifications  are  necessary,  &  recommended  you  strongly.  I  like  the 
specimens  you  sent  &  judge  from  them  that  you  sketch  rapidly  & 
correctly.  I  will  send  you  your  appointment  in  a  few  days,  &  should 
like  to  see  you  before  you  go  to  the  West.  I  will  let  you  know  at 
what  time  you  had  better  pass  through  here.  I  think  it  would  be  well 
for  you  to  employ  what  leisure  time  you  have,  in  making  yourself 
so  far  instructed,  with  the  structure  of  plants  as  to  know  what  par- 
ticular parts  will  require  most  care  in  your  drawings.  I  need  not  tell 
you  that  in  the  field  your  occupations  will  be  constant  &  laborious 
but  I  think  that  your  duties  will  also  in  many  respects  be  agreeable. 
Very  respectfully  Your  Obdt.  Servt. 

J.  C.  Fremont 


ALS-JBF,  RC  (NHi).  The  young  Philadelphian  Edward  Kern  (1823-63) 
served  not  only  as  artist  but  also  as  topographer  and  cartographer  to  the  third 
expedition,  and,  when  many  of  its  members  became  involved  in  the  conquest 
of  California,  Kern  was  placed  in  command  of  the  garrison  at  Sutter's  Fort, 
temporarily  called  Fort  Sacramento.  After  the  court-martial  of  JCF,  Kern  per- 
suaded two  of  his  brothers,  Richard  H.,  also  an  artist  and  drawing  teacher, 
and  Benjamin  }.,  a  physician,  to  accompany  JCF's  fourth  expedition  to  Cali- 
fornia. Later  Edward  served  with  the  Navy  in  the  Ringgold-Rodgers  and 
Brooke  expeditions  to  Japan,  Siberia,  and  various  Pacific  islands,  and  in  the 
Civil  War.  For  a  biography  of  Kern,  see  heffernan;  for  his  role  in  American 
expansion,  see  hine. 

1.  George  Robbins  Gliddon  (1809-57),  a  former  U.S.  consul  at  Cairo,  was 
a  noted  archeologist  and  lecturer  on  Egyptian  antiquities.  Edward  M.  and 
Richard  H.  Kern  had  prepared  the  illustrations  for  CJliddon's  hierological  lec- 
tures (nott  &  GLIDDON,  xxxviii). 

2.  Edward  M.  Kern's  friend,  Joseph  Drayton,  had  worked  in  Philadelphia 
as  an  engraver,  portrait  painter,  and  artist  until  1838,  when  he  joined  the 
Charles  Wilkes  expedition.  At  its  conclusion  in  1842  he  went  to  Washington 
to  work  on  the  illustrations.  The  1845  edition  of  Wilkes'  narrative  includes 
sixty-one  woodcuts  from  Drayton's  sketches  (arrington;  groce  &  Wallace). 
Kern  sought  Drayton's  advice  on  the  proper  clothing  and  artist's  supplies  to 
take  on  the  western  expedition  (Kern  to  Drayton,  draft,  20  March  1845,  and 
Drayton  to  Kern,  22  March  1845,  both  in  CSmH — Fort  Sutter  Papers). 

401 


110.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  City  March  23d.  1845 
My  Dear  Sir, 

I  am  delighted  to  know  that  you  are  at  Princeton.  The  letters  you 
have  sent  since  you  arrived  there  have  been  of  great  value  to  me — 
many  of  the  plants  you  have  determined  were  characteristic  &  very 
many  are  interesting.  Purshia  trid[entata]  for  instance,  extends  over 
a  great  portion  of  the  country  west  of  the  Rocky  Mts.  Fremontia 
vermicularis  with  other  saline  shrubs  is  very  abundant  &  in  many 
places  highly  characteristic — the  leaves  of  this  plant  have  a  very  salty 
taste  which  perhaps  you  do  not  know.  I  think  that  the  shrubs  of  that 
country,  are  very  great  in  variety,  &  form  probably  the  most  inter- 
esting portion  of  the  plants.  Will  you  not  give  to  the  Pinus  Pifion 
the  name  of  your  botanical  friends — Will  you  not  designate  the 
Acacia  by  some  name.  No.  509  1844,  is  a  plant,  the  root  of  which  is 
extensively  used  by  the  Indians  as  an  article  of  food,  under  the 
names  of  Racine  a  Tabac  and  Black  root.^  It  has  broad  oblong  racinal 
leaves  &  a  bulbous  root — many  specimens  unnumbered — perhaps 
you  might  determine  it. 

No  part  of  my  report  will  go  to  the  press  before  the  end  of  this 
month  &  then  I  will  print  very  slowly  in  order  that  we  may  avail 
ourselves  as  much  as  possible  of  your  determinations.  No.  149 — 1844. 
This  was  from  a  large  oak  three  feet  in  diameter" — specimen  taken 
in  the  first  days  of  April — bears  a  slender  acorn  three  quarters  of  an 
inch  to  an  inch  &  a  half  long — which  has  a  pleasant  flavor.  The 
Indians  gather  it  in  enormous  quantities  &  I  enclose  you  a  rough 
sketch  from  our  botanical  artist  that  you  may  judge  how  we  shall 
do.  I  will  write  you  a  desultory  line  very  frequently  &  am  with  much 
respect  truly  yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence).  In  a  CLSM  manu- 
script draft  of  this  letter,  also  in  Jessie's  hand,  JCF  speaks  of  having  "been 
oppressed  with  a  headache  for  several  days." 

1.  Valeriana  ciliata  Torr.  &  Gray. 

2.  Quercus  lobata  Nee;  valley  oak.  First  collected  in  the  Monterey  region 
in  1792  by  two  officers  of  the  Malaspina  expedition,  Robredo  and  Esquerra, 
later  praised  by  Vancouver,  and  following  JCF's  contact  with  the  oak,  it  was 
described  as  a  new  species,  0.  longiglanda  Torr.  &  Frem.,  although  Torrey 
could  hardly  have  been  ignorant  of  this  beautiful  species. 

402 


111.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington  March  25.  1845 
Sir, 

A  requisition  for  five  thousand  dollars  was  yesterday  made  in 
vour  favor  to  be  placed  to  your  credit  in  the  Bank  of  Missouri,  at  St. 
Louis. 

This  is  the  most  that  can  be  put  to  your  credit  from  the  appropria- 
tion of  1844.  The  appropriation  of  1845  w^ill  not  be  available  till  on 
and  after  the  1st  day  of  July  next.  For  the  additional  means  required 
for  the  expedition  under  your  command,  you  will  have  to  draw  on 
this  Bureau  payable  on  the  1st  July.  Your  drafts  will  be  duly  paid. 
Very  Respectfully  Your  Obt.  Servt., 

J.  J.  Abert 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  8:270). 


112.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

[Thursday,  27  March  1845] 
[Washington  City] 
My  dear  Sir, 

Yours  of  the  25th  from  New  York,  I  have  this  moment  received  & 
immediately  reply  in  order  that  you  may  lose  no  time  in  having 
the  Fremontia  engraved — which  I  beg  you  will  have  commenced 
at  once.  Will  you  accompany  it  with  a  description  ?  If  so  I  will  send 
you  a  list  of  the  localities  to  which  it  belonged — general  &  partic- 
ular. 

I  will  write  again  by  to  nights  mail  &  send  by  the  same  a  Pub. 
Doc.  containing  plants.  Very  truly  yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont 
Thursday  March  27th  1845 
Washington  City 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (NNNBC;— Torrey  Correspondence).  On  the  following  day, 
28  March  1845,  Torrey  wrote  to  Gray:  "I  have  run  over  Fremont's  plants,  & 

403 


furnished  him  the  names  of  such  as  could  be  made  out  with  a  cursory 
examination.  There  are  many  interesting  shrubs  from  the  mountains,  that  are 
quite  new  to  me.  What  a  pity  they  are  in  so  sad  a  condition!  I  recognized 
Cowania  (allied  to  Purshia)  among  them  &  several  of  which  I  don't  know  the 
natural  order!  There  were  roots  of  Lewisiae  evidently  alive,  &  I  am  putting 
them  in  some  earth  for  you.  Just  now  they  look  pretty  vigorous.  There  were 
also  several  bulbs  that  are  now  growing  finely.  You  shall  have  them  all  in 
due  time.  The  number  of  curious  Oaks  in  the  Collection  is  considerable — & 
some  must  be  quite  new  .  .  ."  (rodgers,  165). 


113.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  City 
March  30th.  1845 
My  Dear  Sir, 

I  was  not  able  to  distinguish  any  difference  between  the  blue 
flax  of  the  Rocky  Mt.  Country,  &  the  common  blue  flax  of  cultiva- 
tion/ Will  you  tell  me  if  I  shall  do  wrong  in  calling  it  Linum 
Usitatissimum  .-^  If  you  have  it  at  hand  please  send  one  when  next 
you  write,  a  little  piece  of  Lynosiris  graveolens.^  With  respect  I  am 
Very  truly  yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 

1.  H.  G.  Baker  has  discussed  "Charles  Darwin  and  the  Perennial  Flax — a 
Controversy  and  Its  Implications,"  involving  Linum  perenne  and  L.  lewisii 
in  H««^/a,  2  (1965):  141-61. 

2.  Linosyris,  Chrysothamnus  graveolens  (Nutt.)  Greene;  rabbit-brush. 


114.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  City  April  4th  1845 
My  dear  Sir, 

I  have  the  pleasure  to  acknowledge  your  last  letter  of  the  31st 
containing  your  final  determinations.  I  trust  with  you  that  we  shall 
not  find  it  necessary  to  make  any  sacrifices  at  the  end  of  the  next 

404 


campaign— at  the  same  time  it  is  really  wonderful  to  me  that  you 
have  been  able  to  make  out  so  many  of  this  collection,  but  the  beau- 
tiful condition  in  which  you  will  see  those  of  the  next,  will  be  some 
amends  for  your  labor.  As  we  do  not  publish  any  appendix,  I  sup- 
pose you  will  think  it  not  advisable  to  annex  Dr.  Grey's  pamphlet 
to  the  report.  I  hope  that  you  will  succeed  with  the  plate  of  the 
Fremontia.  You  know  that  can  always  be  put  in  at  the  last  hour.  We 
shall  require  certainly  ten  thousand,  &  probably  twenty  thousand  im- 
pressions. I  enclose  a  little  note,  on  which  I  beg  you  to  put  the  an- 
swers to  the  questions,  if  there  are  any,  and  enclose  it  back  to  me. 
They  refer  to  your  last  determinations.  I  made  some  unaccountable 
mistake  in  not  sending  you  the  missing  numbers  which  shall  be 
forwarded.  All  my  manuscripts  are  complete.  Very  truly  yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont. 
ALS-JBF,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 


115.  Fremont  to  Mrs.  Townsend 

Friday  4th  April  [1845?] 
Dear  Mrs.  Townsend, 

I  thank  you  for  your  kind  enquiry.  I  have  been  quite  ill  but  only 
with  the  grippe.  Its  serious  results  have  been  the  necessity  to  remain 
indoors  and  the  incessant  headaches  it  leaves.  And  I  cannot  get  quite 
clear  of  the  cough.  But  Dr.  Martin  has  given  me  some  medicine 
which  acts  like  a  charm  and  by  Monday  I  shall  be  out  again. 

Pray  thank  Mr.  Townsend  for  me.  I  would  be  glad  to  come  over 
and  take  my  cold  with  him.  Any  little  excitement  is  pleasant  to  the 
newspapers.  I  do  not  easily  see  how  they  got  me  put  on  the  invalid 
list.  Barring  this  little  ailment  I  am  thoroughly  sound,  as  you  will 
see  when  I  report.  Sincerely  yours, 

}.  C.  Fremont 

ALS,  RC  (James  S.  Copley  Collection,  La  Jolla,  Calif.).  The  recipient  was 
probably  Charlotte  Holmes  Townsend,  wife  of  John  Kirk  Townsend. 


405 


116.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  City — April  7th.  1845 


My  dear  Sir, 


I  received  safely  your  letter  and  the  package  containing  plants, 
which  I  delayed  acknowledgeing  as  I  had  just  written  you  a  line. 
The  chenopodiaceous  shrubs  as  you  have  probably  judged  form 
a  striking  feature  in  the  vegetation  of  the  country,  and  I  will  take 
some  pains  in  having  them  well  figured.  There  will  be  a  greater 
number  of  the  Fremontia  plate  required,  than  I  supposed — I  find 
we  shall  want  11,335.  I  am  glad  that  you  found  a  good  piece  of  the 
plant.  Col.  Benton  says  it  will  give  him  pleasure  to  send  you  any 
documents  that  may  be  of  interest.  I  am  my  dear  Sir  Very  truly 
yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 


117.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  City  April  8th  1845. 
My  dear  Sir, 

I  received  your  letter  of  the  4th  last  night.  As  we  cannot  make  full 
use  of  our  botany  for  the  present  report  I  only  refer  slightly  to  the 
plants  in  the  course  of  the  narrative,  rarely  mentioning  any  other 
than  are  very  characteristic — but  I  suppose  it  will  be  well  to  secure 
such  as  the  Pinon  pine,  and  the  Spirolobium  and  I  was  desirous  to 
have  your  advice  as  to  the  manner  in  which  I  should  mention  them. 
That  is  to  say,  I  should  like  to  know  the  briefest  form,  which  would 
shew  that  you  had  examined  them,  &  that  they  rest  upon  your  au- 
thority. Will  the  manner  in  which  you  give  'Spirolobium  Torr.  & 
Frem."  be  sufficient?  In  the  preface  I  have  stated  that  all  the  plants 
were  in  your  hands  and  that  whatever  was  said  in  regard  to  botany 
rested  on  your  authority — but  that  there  had  not  been  sufficient  time 
for  you  to  prepare  a  full  botanical  account,  which  would  be  deferred 
until  the  next  report. 

406 


I  think  that  S.  odorata  is  the  best  name  for  the  tree,  as  its  fragrance 
is  very  deUghtful  &  remarkable. 

I  am  making  every  effort  to  get  out  at  the  end  of  this  month  but 
am  very  much  pressed  by  business.  I  find  it  difficult  to  restrain  my 
impatience  when  I  see  every  thing  coming  into  bloom  &  remember 
how  many  beautiful  things  for  us  [lie]  beyond  the  Mississippi.  In  the 
mean  time  I  am  organizing  my  camp  on  the  frontier  and  collecting 
my  horses  there.  I  go  out  this  time  well  equipped — I  have  some 
beautiful  instruments  and  my  longitudes  will  not  have  any  longer 
to  depend  much  on  chronometers.  I  will  either  send  you  a  proof  or  a 
copy  of  the  map  before  I  leave.  I  hope  that  I  shall  have  an  early 
reply  to  the  question  in  this  &  in  the  meantime  remain  very  respect- 
fully &  truly  yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont. 

I  think  that  I  have  seen  varieties  of  the  Spirolobium  in  that  coun- 
try, but  will  defer  being  certain  until  I  get  there  again. 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 


118.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington  April  10.  1845 
Sir, 

On  arriving  at  Bents  Fort,  if  you  find  it  desirable,  you  will  detach 
a  Lieutenant  &  party  to  explore  the  Southern  Rocky  mountains  and 
the  regions  South  of  the  Arkansas,  under  such  instructions  as  your 
experience  shall  suggest.  You  are  also  authorized  to  increase  your 
party  by  10  or  more  men,  if  desirable  on  arriving  at  Bents  fort,  and 
to  make  such  additional  outlay  as  the  condition  of  the  expedition 
and  the  duties  shall  require.  It  is  extremely  desirable  that  you  should 
be  in  before  the  adjournment  of  the  next  session  of  Congress  in 
order  that  if  any  operations  should  be  required  in  that  Country,  the 
information  obtained  may  be  at  command. 
Lieuts.  Abert  &  Peck  have  been  ordered  to  report  to  you.^ 
Your  attention  will  be  given  to  the  military  peculiarity  of  the 
Country  which  you  shall  examine,  in  reference  to  which  you  will 

407 


probably  be  required  to  make  a  separate  report.  Respectfully  Sir 
your  Obt.  Servt., 

J.  J,  Abert 
Col.  Corps.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  8:296-97). 

1.  James  W.  Abert,  son  of  the  chief  of  the  Corps  of  Topographical  Engi- 
neers and  a  graduate  of  Princeton  and  West  Point,  would  command  the  de- 
tached expedition  and  leave  an  account  of  the  journey  under  the  title  "Journal 
of  Lieutenant  J.  W.  Abert,  from  Bent's  Fort  to  St.  Louis,  in  1845,"  published  in 
1846  as  Senate  Doc.  438,  29th  Cong.,  1st  sess.  A  map  was  included,  apparently 
engraved  from  the  same  plate  as  the  large  map  in  Fremont's  Report.  Resign- 
ing from  the  Army  in  1864,  Abert  became  a  merchant  in  Cincinnati,  and  in 
the  1870s  a  professor  of  English  literature  at  the  University  of  Missouri.  After 
William  Guy  Peck  (d.  1892)  returned  with  young  Abert,  he  was  attached  to 
the  "Army  of  the  West,"  under  Brigadier  General  Kearny;  he  then  taught 
mathematics  at  the  Military  Academy  until  his  resignation  from  the  Army 
in  1855.  This  was  followed  by  a  long  career  as  a  professor  of  mathematics, 
principally  at  Columbia  College  (cullum). 


119.  Fremont  to  John  Bailey 

Washington  City  April  11th.  1845 
My  dear  Sir, 

Will  you  excuse  a  very  brief  letter  in  the  pressure  of  business? 
Your  pacquet  of  the  3d.  which  has  been  unusually  long  in  coming, 
was  received  only  this  afternoon.  I  am  very  much  gratified  with 
your  interesting  results,  and  in  the  manner  of  communicating  them 
I  beg  you  will  take  the  course  which  you  think  proper  as  that  will 
also  be  the  most  agreeable  to  me — making  them  known  to  the 
Geological  Society  will  undoubtedly  be  the  best  method,  &  we  can 
also  insert  an  article  in  my  report  and  publish  with  it  such  plates  as 
you  will  be  able  to  prepare.  Shall  I  publish  the  contents  of  the  letter 
you  sent  me,  merely  changing  the  form.?  or  will  you  write  a  few 
words  of  a  general  character,  introducing  it.  You  know  I  am  not 
at  all  familiar  with  this  Science — I  might  make  some  error,  although 
I  should  be  very  guarded  and  send  you  the  proof  sheets.  I  shall  try  to 
inform  myself  a  little  on  this  interesting  subject — I  am  reading  the 
proofs  of  the  first  part  of  the  report  now — but  your  reply  to  this 
would  be  in  time  as  the  printer  will  not  reach  that  part  of  the  Report 

408 


for  ten  days  yet,  and  as  the  map  will  not  be  finished  by  the  Lithog- 
rapher for  six  weeks  yet,  you  will  have  sufficient  time  to  prepare  the 
figures  for  the  engraver.  Endicott  in  New  York  is  engraving  some 
of  our  fossils  and  if  agreeable  to  you,  you  could  send  the  drawings 
to  him. 

I  shall  probably  leave  the  frontier  on  this  expedition,  before  the 
work  is  published  but  arrangements  will  be  made  for  these  things  in 
my  absence.  You  may  be  assured  that  I  will  bring  you  a  beautiful 
collection  when  I  return  and  I  expect  it  will  give  you  a  long  work, 
as  the  specimens  will  be  continuous  and  from  widely  extended  lo- 
calities. I  am  with  great  respect,  very  truly  yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (Museum  of  Science,  The  Library,  Science  Park,  Boston — 
John  Bailey  Papers). 


120.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

[ca.  15  April  1845] 


My  dear  Sir, 


Your  letters  of  the  10th,  &  13th,  were  received  together  last  night. 
Far  from  wearying  of  your  letters  I  never  see  the  handwriting  on  the 
address  without  pleasure  and  your  enthusiasm  for  botany  hardly  sur- 
passes my  own,  although  scarcely  justified  by  my  slight  knowledge. 
As  you  know  [now]  have  the  most  leisure  please  write  whenever  you 
have  any  suggestion  or  information  to  communicate  and  I  will  an- 
swer as  promptly  as  pressing  business  will  now  permit.  I  [now]  an- 
swer seriatim.  Unless  Geyer  be  the  German  botanist  I  have  no  idea 
who  it  can  be,  but  we  will  try  in  the  coming  expedition  to  go  beyond 
him.  I  will  send  you  the  notes  on  the  Fremontia  to  night  and  will 
take  care  about  the  extra  copies,  and  those  of  the  report.  I  like  your 
idea  of  publishing  from  time  to  time  when  I  am  gone  and  if  I  can 
make  a  safe  opportunity  I  will  send  you  a  collection  from  the  foot  of 
the  mountains  in  the  summer.  We  can  arrange  to  have  as  many 
plates  paid  for  as  you  choose  to  prepare  and  I  will  engage  a  friend 
to  attend  to  it  in  my  absence.  I  send  you  the  only  copy  of  Nicollet's 
report  we  have  by  us — if  you  mean  Espy's  report  for  1841^  I  can  also 

409 


send  you  a  copy  of  that.  In  reply  to  your  note  of  April  11th  I  am 
greatly  pleased  with  your  plan  for  a  popular  work  as  supplement  to 
Michaux."  I  am  satisfied  that  there  is  a  large  and  extraordinary  vari- 
ety of  trees.  The  Government  will  pay  for  the  plates. 

In  reply  to  April  13th  I'll  be  glad  to  get  your  descriptions — they 
will  form  what  we  really  want  for  the  present  work.  A  brief  notice 
of  the  value  of  the  Botany  and  a  few  descriptions  (authorized)  of 
plants  that  we  ought  not  to  lose.  I  am  with  great  respect  Very  cor- 
dially yours, 

J.  C,  Fremont 

Please  send  me  any  of  the  plants  you  mentioned.  The  express  will 
bring  them  to  me  very  carefully.  The  unnumbered  specimens  of 
Tobacco  root  or  black  root  (Valeriana)  were  not  among  the  Kansas 
plants — they  were  gathered  about  the  26th  May  1844,  on  the  Utah 
lake,  west  of  the  Rockies. 


ALS-JBF,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 

1.  Probably  James  P.  Espy  (1785-1860),  who  developed  the  convectional 
theory  of  precipitation  and  in  1842  became  meteorologist  to  the  War  Depart- 
ment. It  was  in  1843 — not  1841 — that  he  submitted  the  first  annual  weather 
report.  His  Philosophy  of  Storms  was  published  in  1841,  but  by  a  private 
firm — C.  C.  Little  and  J.  Brown  of  Boston. 

2.  Silviculturist  and  botanist  Francois  Andre  Michaux  (1770-1855)  made 
several  voyages  of  travel  and  study  in  the  eastern  United  States  and  was  the 
author  of  Histoire  des  arbres  jorestiers  de  V Amerique  septentrionale  (Paris, 
1810-13),  better  known  as  The  North  American  Sylva.  It  was  later  supple- 
mented by  Thomas  Nuttall. 


My  dear  Sir, 


121.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  City  April  18th,  1845. 


You  are  perfectly  right  about  the  black  root,  it  needed  only  the 
smell  of  the  little  piece  you  sent  to  recognise  the  plant.  In  regard  to 
the  plates  Col.  Benton  desired  me  to  tell  you,  that  he  has  no  doubt 
Congress  will  pay  for  everything  of  that  kind. 

I  have  always  something  to  ask  you.  Will  you  perhaps  remember, 
my  having  sent  you  when  you  were  at  New  York,  two  little  plants, 

410 


the  first  I  saw  in  bloom  in  coming  out  of  the  snows  of  the  Cahfornia 
Mts/  I  cannot,  after  much  searching  lay  my  hand  on  your  letter,  giv- 
ing them  their  names,  and  I  am  afraid  it  will  come  up,  when  it  is  too 
late,  and  perhaps  you  can  still  tell  me  what  they  were. 

I  have  made  up  my  mind  to  send  you  from  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains, through  Bent's  Fur  Company  the  plants  I  shall  collect  up  to 
that  point.  I  see  that  many  of  the  trees,  particularly  some  fine  oaks, 
you  think  are  new,  and  as  we  have  passed  over  the  country  several 
times,  we  should  not  let  any  one  anticipate  us  in  publishing  them.  If 
you  find  leisure  to  send  me  any  pieces  of  our  plants,  they  will  reach 
me  safely  through  the  express,  and  will  be  very  useful  guides  to  me. 

Please  let  me  hear  soon  in  answer  to  my  question:  and  I  will  give 
you  any  specific  information  you  desire  to  have  in  regard  to  any 
arrangement  you  may  like  to  make  about  the  plates. 

In  that,  we  may  do  any  thing  we  like.  Yours  very  truly, 

J.  C.  Fremont 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 

1.  Sarcodes  sanguinea  Torr.;  snow  plant.  Described  in  Plantae  Fremontiance 
(New  York,  1853),  18,  and  there  accompanied  by  a  fine  plate  executed  by 
Isaac  Sprague. 


122.  Fremont  to  Stephen  Cooper 

Washington  City  April  22d  1845 


Dr.  Sir: 


Col.  Benton  tells  me  that  you  have  accepted  an  appointment  in  my 
party,  and  I  am  glad  to  have  with  me  a  man  for  whom  he  has  so 
high  an  opinion,  as  I  have  no  doubt  that  on  this  trip  we  shall  need 
men  of  the  best  quality  and  we  must  try  to  have  no  other. 

Dr.  McDowell,  one  of  Col.  Benton's  nephews  who  goes  with  us, 
is  about  to  go  into  the  interior  of  Missouri  to  purchase  animals,  and  I 
would  be  glad  for  him  to  have  the  benefit  of  your  judgment,  as  you 
know  exactly  what  kind  we  want.  He  is  now  at  Saint  Louis  and  I 
write  to  night  to  tell  him  to  meet  you  at  Jefferson.  Therefore  if  it  is 
convenient  to  you,  you  had  better  leave  home  immediately  and  join 

411 


him  there.  Your  salary  will  be  $2.00  per  diem,  and  it  will  commence 
the  day  you  leave  home  on  this  business.  Very  respectfully  Your 
obedient  Servant, 

J.  C.  Fremont 
Capt.  U.  S.  Army 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (C).  Endorsed,  "Received  May  the  25  1845  left  hoam  may  the 
28th  [signed]  Maj.  Stephen  Cooper."  A  Kentuckian  by  birth,  Stephen 
Cooper  had  been  active  in  the  Santa  Fe  trade  in  the  1820s,  Indian  subagent 
at  Council  Bluffs  in  the  1840s,  and  had  just  completed  a  term  (representative 
from  Adair  County)  in  the  Missouri  legislature  when  JCF's  letter  arrived. 
He  had  a  reputation  of  being  "an  old  and  experienced  woodsman,  and  a  bold 
yet  cautious  man."  As  he  served  in  Abert's  detachment  of  JCF's  third  expedi- 
tion, he  returned  to  Missouri  in  the  fall  of  1845,  but  in  1846  emigrated  with 
his  wife  and  children  to  California,  where  he  had  a  varied  career  as  alcalde  in 
Benicia,  judge  of  the  Sonoma  district,  miner  at  Park's  Bar,  and  justice  of  the 
peace  in  Colusa  (Missouri  Republican,  7  June  1845;  pioneer  register).  In 
view  of  this  letter  and  the  endorsement,  it  is  hard  to  justify  the  payment  for 
"extra  services  or  services  prior  to  28  May  1845"  which  he  received  on  2  Nov. 
1845  (see  DNA-217,  T-135,  voucher  no.  274,  2  Nov.  1845). 


123.  Asa  Gray  to  John  Torrey 

Cambridge,  Wednesday  morning,  23  April  [1845] 
My  Dear  Torrey, 

•  •  •  • 

Now  as  to  the  Fremontese  plants.  I  fear  I  cannot  make  them  a 
study  so  as  to  aid  you;  certainly  not  at  this  moment.  I  fear  I  can  only 
answer  specific  questions. 

New  gen.  Papaveraceae.  That  should  be  noticed.  There  is  a  new 
Gen.  Papav.  Calif.  Coulter  described  in  Lond.  Jour.  Bot.  for  Feb., 
Rom?jeya,  Harvey.  But  the  plate  of  it  is  not  yet  given.  I  have  been 
trying  for  a  week  to  get  to  Boston  to  look  at  the  Journal  &  say  if 
yours  be  it  (my  copy  is  sent  to  Sullivant.)  but  have  not  made  out  yet. 
I  will  try  to  go  tomorrow,  yet  that  is  lecture  day. 

I  will  then  compare  your  queer  Crucifera  with  Dithraea,  Harv.  If 
my  memory  serves  the  leaves  are  same  (there  are  plenty  of  car- 
damines  with  compound  leaves  &  the  leaflets  petiolulate).  I  remember 


412 


the  figure  of  that  had  a  loose  terminal  raceme.  I  will  compare  in 
time. 

No.  301  (1843)  may  well  be  Gaura  coccinea — no  doubt. 

No.  560  {\%¥i)—(Enothera  montana,  Nutt  (ex.  descr.)  The  sub- 
sessile  &  not  having  pods  should  distinguish  it  from  CE.  marginata 
(which  you  have  a  specm.  of). 

No  number — a  starved  CE.  Missouriensis.  Possibly  new;  probably 
not. 

751,  &  753— Either  CE  pallida  or  albicaulis  var.  (Nuttall  has  con- 
fused the  two  a  little.) 

No  number — (E  n.  sp.  (place  next  Jamesii). 

81  ( 1 843 ) —CE.  Missouriensis. 

337  (1844)— CE.  alyssoides.  Hook.  Agrees  better  with  a  Snake 
Country  specimen  I  have  than  with  Hooker's  figure. 

No  number— CEnothera  (Chylismia)  n.  sp.  diff.  from  Nuttall's 
(you  can  compare).  It  sustains  that  section  beautifully.  Call  it  CE. 
Fremontii  or  sisymbrioides  or  erysimoides. 

Another  without  number,  with  the  foliage  &c.  somewhat  of  Gaura 
coccinea,  the  flowers  &c.  of  [  ?],  will  form  a  new  subsection  (between 
Kneiffia  and  Lavauxia — a  very  distinct  plant.  (E.  caiiescens,  Say.  It 
has  an  ovate,  shapely  4-angled  fruit,  which  is  I  think  septicidal. 

782  (1843)  Gayophytum  diflusum  Torr.  &  Gr.— (but  with  larger 
flowers?) 

257  (1844)  Ribes  irriguum. 

Your  Krameria  (no.  425,  1844)  is  ?iot  that  of  Bentham  pi.  Hart- 
weg,  but  most  likely  it  is  K.  parvifolia,  Benth.  Voy.  Sulphur,  p.  6,  1. 
(he  has  no  flowers:  you  have  no  fruit).  Did  yours  come  from  the 
Calif,  side  of  mts. 

He  (Benth.  Sulphur)  has  no  Malphigiacea  except  the  two  I  have 
already  mentioned,  neither  of  which  are  yours. 

This  is  all  I  can  do  for  you  today.  You  will  readily  enough  gather 
what  ones,  thus  far,  it  is  worth  while  to  notice. 

If  you  wish  me  to  draw  up  characters  of  the  CEnothera  I  will  do 
so,  if  you  will  let  me  know  at  once  and  send  with  the  specimens  on 
Monday  next. 

The  London  Hortic.  Socy.  are  about  to  send  Hartweg^  to  collect  in 
Oregon  and  California. 

Is  the  spec,  of  Pinus  Pigfion  [Pinon]  to  be  returned,  or  no.'^  I  don't 


413 


like  the  name  Pignoti,  which  is  not  aboriginal,  but  voyageur  French ! 
In  haste.  Yours  ever. 

A.  Gray 

I  fear  I  can  give  you  no  new  Hght  about  the  Malpighiaceae.  Love  to 
all!  Why  does  not  Mrs.  T.  write .f* 

ALS,  RC  (NNNBG— Torrey  Correspondence). 

1.  Carl  Theodor  Hartweg  (1812-71)  and  his  role  in  exploration  in  Cal- 
ifornia and  Mexico  is  noticed  by  H.  R.  Fletcher  in  his  Story  of  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society,  1804-1968  (London,  1969),  88-89,  152-53,  and  passim. 


124.  Thomas  H.  Benton  to  [William  L.  Marcy] 

Washington  City,  April  25. 1845 
The  Hon.  Sec.  at  War, 
Sir, 

Capt.  Fremont  brought  on  with  him  from  Oregon,  at  the  request 
of  some  missionaries,  a  young  Indian  man  of  the  Chinook  tribe,  and 
promised  to  have  him  sent  back  after  making  some  progress  in  the 
knowledge  of  our  language  and  customs,  and  learning  something  of 
our  government  and  people.  The  time  has  now  come  for  returning 
him,  which  will  require  some  expense  to  enable  him  to  travel  with 
some  emigrant  party  from  the  frontiers  of  Missouri.  Two  horses  at 
$50.  each,  and  saddle  and  pack  saddle  &  other  horse  equipment  $50 
more — a  supply  of  clothes — means  to  procure  his  subsistence  along 
the  road,  both  to  purchase  and  to  kill — guns — presents  to  carry  home 
with  him — in  all  about  $500  might  be  sufficient;  and  I  think  the 
policy  and  the  honor  of  the  U.  S.  requires  him  to  be  well  treated  and 
sent  home  favorably  impressed  in  regard  to  us.  He  is  the  son  of  a 
chief  of  a  leading  tribe  on  the  Pacific,  and  has  come  far  to  see  our 
government  &  people,  and  should  carry  home  good  accounts.  Capt. 
Fremont  could  consign  him  to  the  excellent  Indian  agent.  Major 
Cummins,^  of  the  Delawares;  and  the  contingent,  or  present  fund 
may  furnish  the  means.  Yours  truly, 

Thomas  H.  Benton. 

ALS,  RC  (DNA-75,  LR,  Oregon  B-2422  1845).  Two  endorsements:  the 
first  is  routine,  the  second  reads,  "I  am  induced  to  advise  this  expenditure 

414 


under  the  existing  circumstances  of  our  Territorial  Rights  in  Oregon.  They 
appear  to  me  to  justify  an  appropriation  of  money  to  the  use  of  so  young  an 
Indian  (whose  people  at  home  probably  do  not  know  what  money  is,)  that 
in  an  ordinary  state  of  things  would  seem  to  me  to  be  extravagant.  26.  Ap. 
'45  [signed]  T.  Hardey  Crawford.  Allow  $300  in  this  case.  26  Apl.  45. 
[signed]  W.  L.  Marcy." 

1.  Richard  W.  Cummins,  a  friend  of  Benton's,  was  in  charge  not  only  of 
the  Delawares  but  also  of  the  Shawnees,  Kickapoos,  and  other  tribes  in  the 
Fort  Leavenworth  agency. 


125.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 


Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington  April  26,  1845 
Sir, 

Your  letter  of  the  26th  was  duly  received  and  referred  to  the 
Ordnance  Department,  which  Department  has  recommended  that 
[you]  should  be  relieved  from  charge  on  account  of  the  losses  of 
Ordnance  stores  therein  referred  to,  as  lost  by  unavoidable  accident, 
and  the  recommendation  has  been  sent  to  the  Auditor  Mr.  McCalla 
in  order  to  acquit  you  of  further  accountability  for  them.  Respect- 
fully Sir  Your  Obt.  Servt. 

J.  J.  Abert 
Col.  Corps  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  8:348).  JCF's  26  April  letter  was  entered  in  the  register, 
but  is  not  found.  Presumably  the  relief  also  included  the  howitzer. 


126.   Fremont  to  Edward  M.  Kern 


Washington  City  May  1,  1845 
Sir 

I  am  authorized  to  appoint  you  Artist  to  the  Expedition  which  is 
about  to  visit  the  region  west  of  the  Rocky  Mts.  Your  duties  will  be 
arduous  but  strictly  confined  to  the  subjects  already  enumerated  to 
you. 

Your  compensation  will  be  three  dollars  per  diem,  commencing 

415 


with  the  date  of  this  letter  and  your  travehng  expenses  at  the  rate  of 
ten  cents  per  mile  and  reckoned  by  the  usual  mail  routes,  will  be 
paid  from  this  place  to  Independence  Mo.  and  thence,  on  your  re- 
turn back  to  Washington. 

Immediately  on  the  receipt  of  this  you  will  proceed  to  Saint  Louis 
where  the  party  will  be  organized,  and  await  further  instructions. 
Very  respectfully  Your  Obdt.  Servt. 

J.  C.  Fremont 
Capt.  Comdg.  Explg.  Expedition 
Mr.  Edwd.  M.  Kern 
Philadelphia 
Penna. 

City  of  Philadelphia 

Personally  appeared  before  me  on  the  fifth  day  of  May  A.  D.  1845 
Edwd.  M.  Kern  and  acknowledged  the  above  to  be  his  act  and  Deed 
and  desired  to  the  same  to  be  Recorded  as  such  and  that  this  is  a  true 
copy  of  the  Original.  Witness  my  hand  and  Seal  the  year  and  day 
above  written. 

T[  ?]  Brazu,  Alderman  of  Upper  Delaware  Wards. 

Copy  (CSmH).  For  Edward  Kern  this  was  a  most  welcome  letter.  It  had 
been  more  than  a  month  since  JCF  had  written  (Doc.  No.  109),  accepting 
him  for  the  expedition  and  promising  to  "send  you  your  appointment  in  a 
few  days."  For  Kern's  nervousness  over  his  appointment  and  Henry  Eld's  re- 
assurance that  JCF  was  still  in  Washington — not  in  St.  Louis  as  some  news- 
papers had  reported — and  "occupied  night  and  day  getting  out  his  report," 
see  Kern  to  Eld,  April  1845,  and  Eld  to  Kern,  3  May  1845,  CSmH— Fort 
Sutter  Papers. 


127.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington  May  2.  1845 
Sir, 

No  return  of  Instruments  has  been  received  at  this  Bureau  from 
you  since  the  1st  quarter  1843.  Your  attention  is  invited  to  the  14th 

416 


paragraph  of  the  Instructions  relative  to  the  "Keeping  and  rendering 
the  accounts  of  disbursements  under  the  direction  of  the  Topogl. 
Bureau,"  to  wit:  Quarterly  Returns  of  Instruments,  tools,  machines 
and  other  public  property  will  be  regularly  made. 

You  are  now  charged  upon  the  books  of  this  office  with  the  follow- 
ing instruments  to  wit 

2  Sextants 

1  Pocket  Compass 

1  Reconnoitring  or  spy  glass 

1  scale  of  German  silver 

1  Box  1  , 

1  Pocket         j        chronometer 

1  Camera  Lucida  &c. 
Very  Respectfully  Your  Obt.  Servt. 

J.  J.  Abert 

Your  return  of  instruments  should  exhibit  all  purchases  of  instru- 
ments since  the  last  return. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  8:363-64). 


128.   Caspar  Wistar  to  T.  Hartley  Crawford 

Philadelphia  5th  Mo.  5th  1845 
Respected  Friend 

William  the  Chinnook  boy  on  whose  account  I  wrote  to  thee  some 
time  ago  has  since  then  come  under  my  medical  care  with  a  pretty 
severe  attack  of  indisposition  which  has  left  him  much  debilitated, 
and  he  does  not  regain  his  strength  and  vigor  as  he  should. 

He  seems  drooping  &  anxious  about  his  return  home  &  says  Capt. 
Fremont  promised  to  take  him  back  this  Spring  (in  April  I  think). 
Now  my  present  object  in  addressing  thee  is  to  ascertain  something 
definite  as  to  the  intentions  of  the  department  &  when  he  may  ex- 
pect to  be  sent  for  to  join  his  old  friend  Captain  Fremont  to  whom 
he  seems  much  attached.  Any  information  touching  this  matter  will 
tend  to  relieve  the  suspense  under  which  William  now  labours  and 

417 


will  be  esteemed  a  favour  by  his  friends  here.  With  sents.  of  very 
high  Respect  and  Esteem  I  am  &c.  thy  friend, 

Caspar  Wistar 

ALS,  RC  (DNA-75,  LR,  Oregon  W-2635  1845).  Routine  endorsement  with 
contents  of  letter  summarized.  Letter  "Reed.  7  My  45,  ansd.  May  7/45." 
Caspar  Wistar  (b.  1801)  was  the  nephew  of  Philadelphia  physician  Caspar 
Wistar  and  the  great-grandson  of  glass  manufacturer  Caspar  Wistar.  Like 
his  famous  uncle,  this  Caspar  Wistar  also  became  a  physician,  and  his  son, 
Isaac  Jones  Wistar,  would  found  and  endow  the  Wistar  Institute  of  Anatomy 
and  Biology  in  1892  in  honor  of  his  great-uncle  (wistar). 


129.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Washington  City  May  7th.  1845 
Wednesday  morning 
My  dear  Sir, 

Yours  of  the  5th  arrived  this  morning  and  I  reply  immediately 
regretting  to  hear  you  are  troubled  with  anything  so  distressing  as 
toothache.  I  write  hastily  to  beg  you  to  let  me  have  your  Report  as 
early  as  possible  for  this  reason,  which  perhaps  you  have  not  thought 
of  and  that  is  that  I  may  make  the  little  I  say  through  the  Report  of 
Botany,  conformable  to  you,  and  so  avoid  contradiction.  My  notes 
would  enable  me  to  cover  the  country,  but  preferring  to  say  nothing, 
rather  than  make  blunders,  I  have  restricted  myself  to  very  little.  I 
will  prepare  the  introductory  notice  and  the  proofs  of  your  appendix 
shall  be  sent  to  you  by  mail  for  correction.  I  regret  that  the  appendix 
to  the  first  report  has  been  all  worked  off,  the  whole  edition — and 
we  are  now  reading  the  proofs  of  the  combined  report  at  the  224th 
page.  You  will  remember  that  of  the  first,  only  the  text  and  your 
appendix  was  reprinted.  I  shall  give  you  further  information  respect- 
ing the  proof  sheets  as  I  am  endeavoring  to  get  away  at  the  end  of 
the  week  although  I  do  not  like  to  go  until  I  receive  your  appendix. 

Col.  Benton  is  absent,  but  I  shall  still  receive  everything  under 
cover  to  him  at  this  place. 

Please  let  me  hear  immediately — I  trust  I  shall  make  an  early  re- 


418 


turn  as  I  warmly  reciprocate  your  wish  for  a  personal  acquaintance. 
Very  truly  and  cordially  yours. 

J.  C.  Fremont 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (NHi). 


130.  Fremont  to  J.  J.  Abert 

Washington  City.  May  9th.  1845 
Sm, 

I  respectfully  submit  to  your  consideration  the  propriety  of  ob- 
taining for  me  the  authority  necessary  to  make  a  requisition  on  the 
U.  S.  Arsenal  at  St.  Louis,  for  arms  to  equip  the  Exploring  party  un- 
der my  command.  The  arms  required  would  be  a  mountain  howit- 
zer with  about  50  shells:  forty  pair  of  holster  pistols;  with  the 
amount  of  ammunition  necessary  for  the  campaign. 

The  uncertain  and  frequently  hostile  disposition  of  the  people  in- 
habiting the  countries  along  the  line  of  exploration  render  every 
advantage  of  arms  which  can  be  afforded,  material  to  the  safety  of 
our  very  small  party.  I  have  the  honor  to  be  with  much  respect  Your 
obdt.  servt. 

J.  C.  Fremont 
Bvt.  Capt.  Topi.  Engineers 

LS,  RC  (DNA-156,  LR,  1845).  Three  endorsements  read:  (1)  "Respect- 
fully submitted  to  the  Chief  of  the  Ord.  Dept.  with  a  request  that  the 
requisition  be  complied  with.  J.  J.  Abert,  Col.  Corps.  T.  E.  9  May  1845." 
(2)  "There  is  no  doubt  of  the  necessity  for  arming  the  party  of  Capt.  Fre- 
mont, but  the  orders  of  the  Secretary  of  War  are  required  for  the  action  of  this 
office.  G.  Talcott,  Lt.  Col.  Ord.,  9  May  '45."  (3)  "The  requisition  of  Capt. 
Fremont  is  approved  as  recommended.  W.  L.  Marcy,  Sec  War,  May  9,  '45." 
A  final  endorsement  reads,  "Orders  given  same  day:  see  letter  to  Col.  Abert  of 
10  May  1845."  A  copy  of  Talcott's  letter  (10  May  1845,  Lbk,  DNA-156, 
Miscl.  LS,  65:25)  to  Abert  informing  the  bureau  chief  that  instructions  had 
been  given  to  Capt.  William  H.  Bell,  in  command  of  the  St.  Louis  Arsenal,  to 
issue  the  mountain  howitzer  and  other  stores,  was  sent  to  Fremont  on  10 
May  (Abert  to  JCF,  Lbk,  DNA-77,  LS,  8:385).  The  howitzer,  which  had  to 
come  from  Memphis,  did  not  reach  Westport  until  the  expedition  had  left. 
Apparently  it  was  intended  for  the  use  of  Abert's  detachment,  as  an  encounter 
was  expected  with  the  Comanche  Indians  (Talbot  to  Mary  Talbot,  St.  Louis, 
9  June  1845;  abert,  6). 


419 


My  dear  Sir, 


131.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Wasphngton  City  May  14th.  1845 


I  feel  ashamed  at  the  disjointed  and  brief  manner  in  which  I  have 
lately  been  obliged  to  write  to  you  but  I  would  readily  find  an  excuse 
if  you  knew  the  many  harrassing  engagements  which  press  upon 
my  mind  at  this  time;  on  the  eve  of  a  long  journey  I  have  not 
been  able  to  find  a  single  quiet  hour  among  my  friends — so  I  hope  to 
be  excused  by  you  for  any  apparent  inattention. 

Three  of  the  plates  were  yesterday  received  from  Mr.  Endicott; 
they  are  really  beautiful  and  the  Secretary  of  the  Senate  is  desirous 
that  Mr.  Endicott  should  also  furnish  plates  for  the  11,000  copies 
ordered  by  the  Senate,  and  I  write  to  him  tonight  desiring  him  to 
communicate  with  the  Secretary.  I  was  anxious  that  your  appendix 
should  be  printed  close  to  the  narrative,  and  before  the  long  astro- 
nomical tables.  The  narrative  is  all  worked  off,  and  the  printer  is 
holding  back  for  your  sheets,  which  I  have  told  him  I  expect  every 
day.  I  leave  positively  in  the  morning,  but  if  you  enclose  to  me  as 
usual  under  cover  to  Col.  Benton,  at  this  place,  the  manuscript  will 
be  handed  immediately  to  the  printer  and  the  proofs  will  be  sent  to 
you  for  correction.  It  is  expected  that  the  work  will  be  published  at 
the  end  of  this  month,  and  I  trust  that  no  accident  will  prevent  your 
pages  from  reaching  here  in  time.  It  would  be  a  pity  for  us  to  lose 
what  we  have:  for  the  beautiful  [.  .  .]  we  shall  publish  at  the  end  of 
the  coming  session,  we  shall  have  abundant  leisure. 

Through  the  narrative  in  using  the  words  Pinus  monophyllus,  as 
the  scientific  term,  I  have  adopted  for  the  popular  name  "Nut  Pine," 
instead  of  Pignon  tree,  for  which  there  are  good  reasons.  Will  you 
not  do  the  same. 

I  cannot  in  the  present  hurry  find  time  to  write  a  fit  letter  to  pre- 
cede your  notes.  Will  you  arrange  them  as  to  dispense  with  it.  The 
great  length  of  our  journey  and  the  many  accidents  to  which  we 
were  exposed  will  justify  any  remarks  you  may  make  on  the  condi- 
tion of  the  plants,  which  you  will  remember  were  finally  ruined  at 
the  great  floods  of  the  Kansas  which  deluged  the  borders  of  the 
Missouri  and  Mississippi  rivers. 

I  send  you  today  a  public  document  in  which  Mrs.  Fremont  put  a 
card  case  for  your  daughter.  In  the  same  I  send  you  a  cigar  which 

420 


was  brought  me  from  Manilla  by  the  same  friend — not  because  you 
smoke,  neither  do  I — but  as  a  botanical  curiosity.  If  you  happen  to 
smoke  it  will  be  quite  an  enjoyment  to  you.  I  trust  you  received  the 
map  safely.^  You  will  notice  that  most  of  the  work  laid  down  on  it  is 
new.  The  published  map  will  extend  to  the  Missouri  river  inclusive. 
The  next  letter  you  receive  from  me  will  be  dated  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountains.  In  the  meantime  and  until  I  see  or  hear  from  you 
again  I  am  most  truly  yours, 

J.  C,  Fremont 

Any  suggestion  you  have  to  make,  when  you  send  me  your  notes 
to  this  place,  will  be  attended  to,  as  I  leave  directions  to  have  any 
letters  opened  here. 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (NHi). 

1.  The  map  appears  not  to  have  survived. 


132.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Asbury  Dickins 

Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington  May  14.  1845 
Sir 

Captain  Fremont  handed  in  a  part  of  his  report  this  morning.  In 
order  to  save  delay  in  its  printing  it  is  now  sent  to  the  War  Office  to 
be  sent  to  you.  The  other  sheets  are  in  use  in  the  hands  of  the  printer 
of  the  House,  and  will  be  sent  to  you  as  soon  as  received.  But  you 
will  probably  find  it  most  convenient  to  print,  from  the  printed 
(House)  copy,  which  Captain  Fremont  informed  me  would  be  de- 
livered to  you  as  soon  as  completed  for  that  purpose,  and  that  he 
had  fully  explained  the  matter  to  you.  Although  therefore  it  is 
spoken  of  in  the  letter  to  this  office  from  Captain  Fremont,  as  well  as  in 
the  one  from  this  office  to  the  War  Department  as  "the  report"  it  is 
however  as  you  will  perceive  from  the  foregoing,  but  a  part  of  the 
report. 

The  map  to  illustrate  the  report  is  also  I  understand  to  be  in  the 
hands  of  the  House  printer.  Very  Respectfully  Sir  Your  Obt.  Servt. 

J.  J.  Abert 
Col.  Corps.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  8:400-401).  Asbury  Dickins  was  secretary  of  the  Senate. 

421 


133.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 

Bureau  of  Topogl,  Engs. 
Washington  May  14.  1845 
Sir, 

My  letter  of  the  10th  April  indicated  the  propriety  of  making  a 
detachment  from  your  command  on  arriving  at  Bents  Fort.  To  en- 
able this  to  be  done  without  injury  to  your  operations,  Lieut.  Abert 
has  been  supplied  with  a  sextant  and  artificial  Horizon,  and  will  re- 
quire from  your  stock  of  instruments  only  a  Chronometer,  of  which 
instruments  as  you  have  four,  one  at  least  can  be  conveniently  spared. 

It  will  be  proper  that  Lieut.  Abert  should  be  directed,  as  soon  as  he 
has  completed  your  instructions  as  far  as  practicable,  that  he  should 
return  with  his  detachment  to  the  U.  S.  in  order  that  the  expenses  of 
the  expedition  may  be  reduced,  and  funds  be  left  to  meet  the  events 
of  your  own  efforts  for  more  distant  discoveries,  which  will  probably 
keep  you  some  time  longer  in  the  field  than  he  will  be.  Arrange- 
ments should  also  be  made  to  pay  off  his  party  on  its  return. 

It  may  be  proper  to  remark,  that  your  position  is  now  different 
from  what  it  has  heretofore  been.  In  your  first  expeditions  with  Mr. 
Nicollet,  you  were  in  a  school  of  practice  under  an  able  hand,  and 
in  justice  to  your  intelligence  and  industry,  it  is  proper  that  I  should 
say,  you  proved  yourself  to  be  highly  apt  and  meritorious.  Your  posi- 
tion is  now  that  of  principal  with  two  young  assistants,  and  you  will 
have  in  return  to  fulfill  the  duties  not  merely  of  Commanding  Of- 
ficer, but  of  instructor  to  your  assistants  in  the  use  of  reflecting  in- 
struments; a  duty  performed  by  every  officer  similarly  situated,  and 
which  you  will  have  the  best  opportunity  of  performing  in  the  prog- 
ress of  the  expedition  to  the  vicinity  of  Bents  Fort. 

The  strength  of  the  detachment,  is  of  course  a  matter  for  your 
discretion,  and  will  no  doubt  be  supplied  with  an  experienced  man 
among  Indians  as  guide. 

Lieut.  Abert  should  be  directed  on  his  return  to  report  himself  to 
the  Bureau,  and  to  prepare  his  notes  and  report  ready  for  you  on 
your  return,  to  be  addressed  under  seal  to  you  and  deposited  for  safe 
keeping  in  the  Bureau,  as  the  regulations  do  not  admit  surveys  or 
parts  of  surveys  to  be  made  public  but  in  the  form  of  a  report  from 
the  commanding  officer  of  an  expedition  to  the  Bureau. 


422 


As  the  artificial  Horizon,  which  Lieut.  Abert  has  (private  prop- 
erty) is  not  a  very  good  one,  I  would  advise  that  one  of  the  three 
delivered  to  you  should  be  turned  over  to  him,  for  which  purpose  I 
have  requested  Mr.  Patten^  to  deliver  a  third  Horizon  to  you. 

Both  Lieutenants  Abert  and  Peck  will  be  found  well  versed  in  the 
theories  and  the  mathematics,  which  the  duties  require,  and  in  need 
only  of  practice  in  the  use  of  the  sextant,  which  I  have  no  doubt  they 
will  soon  acquire  under  your  able  superintendence.  Very  Respect- 
fully Your  Obt.  Servt. 

J.  J.  Abert 
Col.  Corps.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  8:398-400). 

1.  By  voucher  no.  17,  dated  13  May  1845,  Richard  Patten  acknowledged  re- 
ceipt for  $84.00  paid  to  him  by  JCF  for  three  artificial  horizons  furnished  on 
10  May  1845  (DNA-217,  T-135,  voucher  no.  17). 


134.  Fremont  to  John  Torrey 

Wheeling  Va.  18th  May  1845 
My  dear  Sir, 

Fearing  that  the  remark  in  my  last,  relative  to  the  use  of  "nut 
puie"  instead  of  Pigiion  Pine,  as  the  popular  name  for  finus  mono- 
phyllus  may  not  have  been  clear  to  you,  I  think  it  well  again  to 
mention  to  you  that  I  have  used  the  words  7iut  pine  in  the  narrative 
and  that  you  will  also  use  them  on  the  plates  and  your  "notes."  I 
trust  my  having  failed  to  prepare  the  prefatory  letter  will  not  possi- 
bly prevent  your  sending  the  sheets.  Remembering  how  numerous 
and  pressing  my  engagements  are  you  will  have  some  indulgence 
for  me.  I  will  send  back  to  Mrs.  Fremont  the  three  sheets  you  for- 
warded to  me,  and  as  she  will  open  my  letters,  they  will  be  returned 
to  you  if  you  need  them.  You  will  hear  from  me  from  the  moun- 
tains. Very  truly  yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont 

ALS-JBF,  RC  (NHi). 


423 


135.  Fremont  to  Archibald  Campbell 


Versailles,  Kentucky, 
May  22d.  1845 
My  dear  Campbell, 

I  found  myself  restricted  in  forming  my  party  solely  to  the  en- 
gagement of  hired  men,  having  only  the  farther  liberty  of  procuring 
the  necessary  interpreters  who  may  sometimes  be  had  in  a  portion 
of  the  country  where  we  operate.  Had  I  been  able  to  do  what  we 
both  desired  I  should  have  seen  you  immediately,  but,  having  noth- 
ing satisfactory  to  say,  and  harrassed  [sic]  with  the  pressure  of  vari- 
ous business,  I  deferred  calling  upon  you  until  it  entirely  escaped  my 
mind  in  the  hurry  of  leaving  the  city.  Fully  intending  to  have  done 
so,  I  have  to  ask  your  indulgence  for  the  apparent  neglect.  In  ar- 
ranging the  party  for  the  present  journey  I  have  very  unwillingly 
created  some  unpleasant  feelings,  which  should  not  have  been  di- 
rected to  me,  but  I  trust  that  from  you  I  have  nothing  of  the  kind  to 
expect.  You  perfectly  understand  the  nature  of  our  business  and 
know  that  any  departure  from  bureau  arrangements  always  exposes 
to  difficulties  of  a  very  unpleasant  kind.  In  fact  I  have  not  yet  found 
a  way  to  keep  myself  from  such  &  if  there  had  been  a  little  more 
time  should  have  committed  myself  in  your  case.  You  must  at- 
tribute the  length  of  this  to  my  strong  wish  to  preserve  your  friendly 
regard.  Very  truly  yours, 

J.  C.  Fremont 

[Added  to  the  letter  in  a  di^erent  handwriting  is  this  note:] 

The  foregoing  letter  is  in  reply  to  an  application  for  the  appoint- 
ment of  a  friend  upon  the  Expedition  Fremont  was  then  organizing. 
Washn.  Jany.  2d.  1862. 

Archibald  Campbell 

ALS,  RC  (James  S.  Copley  Collection,  La  Jolla,  Calif.).  Although  Archibald 
Campbell  was  a  graduate  of  the  Military  Academy,  he  had  resigned  from  the 
Army  in  1836  and  was  now  private  secretary  to  the  Secretary  of  War.  Camp- 
bell was  an  old  acquaintance  of  Fremont's;  the  two  young  men  had  served 
together  in  a  civilian  capacity  under  the  direction  of  Capt.  W.  G.  Williams  on 
a  survey  of  the  Cherokee  country,  before  the  removal  of  the  Indians  beyond 
the  Mississippi  River.  Campbell  was  to  become  chief  clerk  of  the  U.S.  War 
Department  in  April  1846  and  later  a  U.S.  commissioner  to  establish  the 
Northwest  Boundary  line  (memoirs,  24;  cullum). 

424 


136.  J.  J.  Abert  to  Fremont 


Bureau  of  Topogl.  Engs. 
Washington  May  26,  1845 
Sm, 

The  limitation  which  has  been  placed  upon  the  number  of  your 
command  will  of  course  be  varied  according  to  your  discretion, 
should  you  find  it  advantageous  to  make  detachments  from  your 
command.  Respectfully  Your  Obt.  Servt. 

}.  J.  Abert 
Col.  Corps.  T.  E. 

Lbk  (DNA-77,  LS,  8:428). 


425 


137.  A  Report  of  the  Exploring  Expedition  to 
Oregon  and  North  California  in  the  Years  1843-44 


Washington  City,  March  1,  1845. 
Colonel  J.  }.  Abert, 

Chief  of  the  Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers: 
Sir:  In  pursuance  of  your  instructions,  to  connect  the  reconnois- 
sance  of  1842,  which  I  had  the  honor  to  conduct,  with  the  surveys 
of  Commander  Wilkes  on  the  coast  of  the  Pacific  ocean,  so  as  to 
give  a  connected  survey  of  the  interior  of  our  continent,  I  proceeded 
to  the  Great  West  early  in  the  spring  of  1843,  and  arrived,  on  the 
17th  of  May,  at  the  little  town  of  Kansas,  on  the  Missouri  frontier, 
near  the  junction  of  the  Kansas  river  with  the  Missouri  river,  where 
I  was  detained  near  two  weeks  in  completing  the  necessary  prep- 
arations for  the  extended  explorations  which  my  instructions  con- 
templated. 

My  party  consisted  principally  of  Creole  and  Canadian  French, 
and  Americans,  amounting  in  all  to  39  men;  among  whom  you  will 
recognize  several  of  those  who  were  with  me  in  my  first  expedition, 
and  who  have  been  favorably  brought  to  your  notice  in  a  former  re- 
port. Mr.  Thomas  Fitzpatrick,  whom  many  years  of  hardship  and 
exposure  in  the  western  territories  had  rendered  familiar  with  a 
portion  of  the  country  it  was  designed  to  explore,  had  been  selected 
as  our  guide;  and  Mr.  Charles  Preuss,  who  had  been  my  assistant  in 
the  previous  journey,  was  again  associated  with  me  in  the  same  ca- 
pacity on  the  present  expedition.  Agreeably  to  your  directions,  Mr. 
Theodore  Talbot,  of  Washington  City,  had  been  attached  to  the 
party,  with  a  view  to  advancement  in  his  profession;  and  at  St. 
Louis  I  had  been  joined  by  Mr.  Frederick  Dwight,^  a  gentleman 

1.  Frederick  Dwight  (1815-89)  had  studied  law  at  Harvard  and  was  one  of 
the  few  survivors  of  the  explosion  of  the  Moselle  near  Cincinnati  in  the  spring 

426 


of  Springfield,  Massachusetts,  who  availed  himself  of  our  overland 
journey  to  visit  the  Sandwich  islands  and  China,  by  way  of  Fort 
Vancouver. 
The  men  engaged  for  the  service  were:^ 

Alexis  Ayot,  Louis  Menard, 

Francois  Badeau,  Louis  Montreuil, 

Oliver  Beaulieu,  Samuel  Neal, 

Baptiste  Bernier,  Alexis  Pera  [Perrault], 

John  A.  Campbell,  Francois  Pera  [Perrault], 

John  G.  Campbell,  James  Power, 

Manuel  Chapman,  Raphael  Proue, 

Ransom  Clark,  Oscar  Sarpy, 

Philibert  Courteau,  Baptiste  Tabeau, 

Michel  Crelis,  Charles  Taplin, 

William  Creuss,  Baptiste  Tesson, 

Clinton  Deforest,  Auguste  Vasquez, 

Baptiste  Derosier,  Joseph  Verrot, 

Basil  Lajeunesse,  Patrick  White, 

Frangois  Lajeunesse,  Tiery  Wright, 

Henry  Lee,  Louis  Zindel,  and 

Jacob  Dodson,  a  free  young  colored  man  of  Washington  city,  who 
volunteered  to  accompany  the  expedition,  and  performed  his  duty 


of  1838.  Before  joining  JCF's  expedition,  he  had  been  interested  in  land  near 
Prophetstown,  111.  He  would  leave  the  Fitzpatrick  contingent  of  the  party 
on  26  Aug.  to  go  on  ahead  to  Fort  Hall  and  then  to  Vancouver,  a  departure 
which  caused  Talbot  to  note  in  his  journal,  "He  is  no  great  loss,  for  he  had 
not  messed  with  us  since  we  left  Fort  Laramie"  (talbot,  40;  dwight,  2:893- 
94;  obituary  notice  in  the  Massachusetts  Springfield  Republican,  27  Feb.  1889). 

2.  Except  for  Manuel  Chapman,  who  settled  in  Oregon,  terms  of  service 
and  rates  of  pay  for  these  voyageurs  are  given  in  notes  in  the  summary  of  fi- 
nancial vouchers  (pp.  379-90).  In  a  letter  of  18  June  18S0  (DNA-77,  LR),  JCF 
asked  Abert  to  pay  Chapman.  "He  left  me  at  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia  .  .  . 
and  he  did  good  service  while  with  me."  Abert  instructed  the  Third  Auditor 
to  pay  Chapman  $47.84,  the  balance  remaining  in  the  Treasury  for  "arrear- 
ages of  military  and  geographical  surveys  west  of  the  Mississippi,"  and  noted 
that  JCF  had  promised  to  obtain  from  Congress  the  balance  due  Chapman 
(DNA-77,  LS,  12:395). 

Badeau,  Bernier,  Basil  Lajeunesse,  Menard,  and  Proue  had  all  been  on  JCF's 
first  western  expedition;  Zindel  had  been  on  the  1839  Nicollet  expedition  to 
the  Minnesota  country;  and  Franqois  Lajeunesse,  brother  of  Basil,  had  accom- 
panied Sir  William  Drummond  Stewart's  western  jaunt  in  1837. 

427 


manfully  throughout  the  voyage.^  Two  Delaware  Indians — a  fine- 
looking  old  man  and  his  son — were  engaged  to  accompany  the  ex- 
pedition as  hunters,  through  the  kindness  of  Major  Cummins, 
the  excellent  Indian  agent.^  L.  Maxwell,  who  had  accompanied  the 
expedition  as  one  of  the  hunters  in  1842,  being  on  his  way  to  Taos, 
in  New  Mexico,  also  joined  us  at  this  place. 

The  party  was  armed  generally  with  Hall's  carbines,  which,  with 
a  brass  12-lb.  howitzer,  had  been  furnished  to  me  from  the  United 
States  arsenal  at  St.  Louis,  agreeably  to  the  orders  of  Colonel  S.  W. 
Kearney,  commanding  the  3d  military  division.  Three  men  were 
especially  detailed  for  the  management  of  this  piece,  under  the 
charge  of  Louis  Zindel,  a  native  of  Germany,  who  had  been  19  years 
a  non-commissioned  officer  of  artillery  in  the  Prussian  army,  and 
regularly  instructed  in  the  duties  of  his  profession.  The  camp  equi- 
page and  provisions  were  transported  in  twelve  carts,  drawn  each 
by  two  mules ;  and  a  light  covered  wagon,  mounted  on  good  springs, 
had  been  provided  for  the  safer  carriage  of  the  instruments.  These 
were: 

One  refracting  telescope,  by  Frauenhofer. 

One  reflecting  circle,  by  Gambey. 

Two  sextants,  by  Troughton. 

One  pocket  chronometer.  No.  837,  by  Goffe,  Falmouth. 

One  pocket  chronometer,  No.  739,  by  Brockbank. 

One  syphon  barometer,  by  Bunten,  Paris. 

One  cistern  barometer,  by  Frye  &  Shaw,  New  York. 

Six  thermometers,  and  a  number  of  small  compasses. 

To  make  the  exploration  as  useful  as  possible,  I  determined,  in 
conformity  to  your  general  instructions,  to  vary  the  route  to  the 
Rocky  mountains  from  that  followed  in  the  year  1842.  The  route 
then  was  up  the  valley  of  the  Great  Platte  river  to  the  South  Pass, 
in  north  latitude  42°;  the  route  now  determined  on  was  up  the  val- 
ley of  the  Kansas  river,  and  to  the  head  of  the  Arkansas,  and  to  some 
pass  in  the  mountains,  if  any  could  be  found,  at  the  sources  of  that 
river. 


3.  Jacob  Dodson,  eighteen  years  old  and  devoted  to  the  Benton  family,  was 
JCF's  personal  servant  on  both  the  second  and  third  expeditions.  Later  he 
served  as  messenger  to  the  U.S.  Senate  {Daily  National  Intelligencer,  30 
March  1849). 

4.  The  names  of  the  "Delawares"  (they  actually  were  Shawnees)  appear 
on  the  financial  records  as  James  Rogers  and  his  son  Thomas  Jefferson  Rogers. 
They  traveled  with  the  expedition  as  far  as  Fort  St.  Vrain. 

428 


By  making  this  deviation  from  the  former  route,  the  problem  of  a 
new  road  to  Oregon  and  CaHfornia,  in  a  rhmate  more  genial,  might 
be  solved;  and  a  better  knowledge  obtained  of  an  important  river, 
and  the  country  it  drained,  while  the  great  object  of  the  expedition 
would  find  its  point  of  commencement  at  the  termination  of  the 
former,  which  was  at  that  great  gate  in  the  ridge  of  the  Rocky 
mountains  called  the  South  Pass,  and  on  the  lofty  peak  of  the  moun- 
tain which  overlooks  it,  deemed  the  highest  peak  in  the  ridge,  and 
from  the  opposite  sides  of  which  four  great  rivers  take  their  rise,  and 
flow  to  the  Pacific  or  the  Mississippi. 

Various  obstacles  delayed  our  departure  until  the  morning  of  the 
29th,'^  when  we  commenced  our  long  voyage,  and  at  the  close  of  a 
day,  rendered  disagreeably  cold  by  incessant  rain,  encamped  about 
four  miles  beyond  the  frontier,  on  the  verge  of  the  great  prairies. 

Resuming  our  journey  on  the  31st,  after  the  delay  of  a  day  to 
complete  our  equipment  and  furnish  ourselves  with  some  of  the 
comforts  of  civilized  life,  we  encamped  in  the  evening  at  Elm 
Grove,  in  company  with  several  emigrant  wagons,  constituting  a 
party  which  was  proceeding  to  Upper  California,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  Mr.  J.  B.  Childs,  of  Missouri.*^  The  wagons  were  variously 

5.  As  on  his  expedition  of  the  previous  year,  JCF  was  heading  first  for 
Fort  St.  Vrain  on  the  South  Platte,  although  by  a  slighdy  different  route.  We 
shall  not  track  him  closely  until  he  is  past  that  outpost.  His  route  from  29  May 
to  4  July  will  take  him  over  some  familiar  Oregon  Trail  country,  a  part  of 
which  he  traversed  in  1842,  but  he  will  stay  well  south  of  his  old  route.  As 
Map  3  in  the  Map  Portfolio  shows,  he  will  proceed  northwest,  angling  across 
Kansas,  crossing  the  main  streams  and  the  affluents  of  the  Republican  River, 
the  Smoky  Hill  River,  and  Solomon's  Fork.  He  will  enter  the  valley  of  the 
South  Platte  30  June  and  reach  the  river  about  opposite  Pawnee  Creek,  near 
Atwood,  in  Logan  County,  Colo. 

It  seems  desirable  to  refer  here  to  a  statement  we  made  on  p.  171  about  our 
approach  to  the  identification  of  topographical  features,  campsites,  and  other 
matters  of  geographical  interest. 

6.  Joseph  B.  Chiles  (1810-85)  was  making  a  second  trip  overland.  The 
doughty  Missourian  had  gone  to  California  in  1841  with  the  John  Bartleson 
party,  obtained  the  promise  of  a  mill  site  from  Mexican  authorities,  and  re- 
turned east  for  the  mill  machinery.  But  a  portion  of  his  party  led  by  Joseph 
R.  Walker  was  forced  to  leave  Chiles'  mill  on  the  way.  The  party  had  divided 
at  Fort  Hall,  Chiles  going  on  to  Fort  Boise  and  reaching  the  Sacramento  Val- 
ley by  way  of  the  Malheur  and  Pit  rivers.  Walker  had  taken  a  more  southerly 
route  down  the  Humboldt,  over  to  Walker  Lake,  then  into  California  by 
way  of  Walker  Pass.  JCF  mentions  the  separation  and  the  routes  on  pp.  523- 
25.  Chiles  went  east  again  in  1847,  but  returned  to  California  the  next  year. 

Dr.  Marcus  Whitman  and  his  nephew,  Perrin  Whitman,  spent  the  night  of 
1  June  with  the  JCF  party  near  the  Kansas  Ford.  The  Whitmans  were  some- 

429 


freighted  with  goods,  furniture,  and  farming  utensils,  containing 
among  other  things  an  entire  set  of  machinery  for  a  mill  which  Mr. 
Childs  designed  erecting  on  the  waters  of  the  Sacramento  river 
emptying  into  the  bay  of  San  Francisco. 

We  were  joined  here  by  Mr.  William  Gilpin,  of  Missouri,  who, 
intending  this  year  to  visit  the  settlements  in  Oregon,  had  been 
invited  to  accompany  us,  and  proved  a  useful  and  agreeable  addition 
to  the  party."  From  this  encampment,  our  route  until  the  3d  of  June 
was  nearly  the  same  as  that  described  to  you  in  1842.  Trains  of 
wagons  were  almost  constantly  in  sight;  giving  to  the  road  a  popu- 
lous and  animated  appearance,  although  the  greater  portion  of  the 
emigrants  were  collected  at  the  crossing,  or  already  on  their  march 
beyond  the  Kansas  river. 

Leaving  at  the  ford  the  usual  emigrant  road  to  the  mountains, 
(which  you  will  find  delineated  with  considerable  detail  on  one  of 
the  accompanying  maps,)  we  continued  our  route  along  the  south- 
ern side  of  the  Kansas,  where  we  found  the  country  much  more 
broken  than  on  the  northern  side  of  the  river,  and  where  our  prog- 
ress was  much  delayed  by  the  numerous  small  streams,  which 
obliged  us  to  make  frequent  bridges.  On  the  morning  of  the  4th, 
we  crossed  a  handsome  stream,  called  by  the  Indians  Otter  creek, 
about  130  feet  wide,  where  a  flat  stratum  of  limestone,  which  forms 
the  bed,  made  an  excellent  ford.  We  met  here  a  small  party  of  Kan- 
sas and  Delaware  Indians,  the  latter  returning  from  a  hunting  and 
trapping  expedition  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  river;  and  on  the 
heights  above  were  five  or  six  Kansas  women,  engaged  in  digging 
prairie  potatoes,  {psoralea  esculenta).  On  the  afternoon  of  the  6th, 
while  busily  engaged  in  crossing  a  wooded  stream,  we  were  thrown 
into  a  little  confusion  by  the  sudden  arrival  of  Maxwell,  who  entered 
the  camp  at  full  speed  at  the  head  of  a  war  party  of  Osage  Indians, 
with  gay  red  blankets,  and  heads  shaved  to  the  scalp  lock.  They  had 

what  behind  the  Chiles  group,  but  overtook  them  and  traveled  part  of  the 
way  to  Oregon  with  them.  Whitman  was  without  supplies,  and  thus  de- 
pendent upon  the  hospitality  of  the  emigrants  for  food,  but  in  return  he  was 
able  to  give  medical  aid  and  advice  about  the  route  (talbot,  9).  For  the  visit 
of  the  JCF  party  to  the  Whitman  mission  at  Walla  Walla,  see  pp.  551-52. 
7.  Pennsylvanian  William  Gilpin  (1813-94),  soldier,  lawyer,  and  editor, 
went  as  far  as  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  wintered  in  the  Willamette  Valley, 
and  returned  to  the  U.S.  in  1844.  A  keen  observer,  he  made  reports  on  the 
Oregon  country  which  were  much  sought  after.  Later  Gilpin  would  serve  as 
Colorado's  first  territorial  governor,  1861-62.  For  a  biography,  see  karnes. 

430 


run  him  a  distance  of  about  nine  miles,  from  a  creek  on  which  we 
had  encamped  the  day  previous,  and  to  which  he  had  returned  in 
search  of  a  runaway  horse  belonging  to  Mr.  Dwight,  which  had 
taken  the  homeward  road,  carrying  with  him  saddle,  bridle,  and 
holster  pistols.  The  Osages  were  probably  ignorant  of  our  strength, 
and,  when  they  charged  into  the  camp,  drove  of!  a  number  of  our 
best  horses ;  but  we  were  fortunately  well  mounted,  and  after  a  hard 
chase  of  seven  or  eight  miles,  succeeded  in  recovering  them  all.  This 
accident,  which  occasioned  delay  and  trouble,  and  threatened  danger 
and  loss,  and  broke  down  some  good  horses  at  the  start,  and  actually 
endangered  the  expedition,  was  a  first  fruit  of  having  gentlemen  in 
company— very  estimable,  to  be  sure,  but  who  are  not  trained  to  the 
care  and  vigilance  and  self-dependence  which  such  an  expedition 
required,  and  who  are  not  subject  to  the  orders  which  enforce  at- 
tention and  exertion.  We  arrived  on  the  8th  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Smoky-hill  fork,  which  is  the  principal   southern  branch  of  the 
Kansas;  forming  here,  by  its  junction  with  Republican,  or  northern 
branch,  the  main  Kansas  river.^  Neither  stream  was  fordable,  and 
the  necessity  of  making  a  raft,  together  with  bad  weather,  detained 
us  here  until  the  morning  of  the  11th;  when  we  resumed  our  jour- 
ney along  the  Republican  fork.  By  our  observations,  the  junction  of 
the  streams  is  in  latitude  39°  03'  38",  longitude  96°  24'  56",  and  at  an 
elevation  of  926  feet  above  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  For  several  days  we 
continued  to  travel  along  the  Republican,  through  a  country  beau- 
tifully watered  with  numerous  streams,  handsomely  timbered;  and 
rarely  an  incident  occurred  to  vary  the  monotonous  resemblance 
which  one  day  on  the  prairies  here  bears  to  another,  and  which 
scarcely  require  a  particular  description.  Now  and  then,  we  caught 
a  glimpse  of  a  small  herd  of  elk;  and  occasionally  a  band  of  ante- 
lopes, whose  curiosity  sometimes  brought  them  within  rifle  range, 
would  circle  round  us,  and  then  scour  off  into  the  prairies.  As  we 
advanced  on  our  road,  these  became  more  frequent;  but  as  we  jour- 

8.  Talbot  says  that  on  the  10th  they  crossed  the  Smoky  Hill  fork  with  their 
carts  and  baggage  on  the  raft  and  in  the  rubber  boat,  then  camped  in  the 
point  formed  by  the  Republican  and  the  Smoky  Hill  (talbot,  13).  This  tallies 
with  JCF's  account,  but  Preuss  unaccountably  .-^ays  it  was  14  June,  and  does 
not  mention  the  two  river  forks,  saying  only  that  they  crossed  the  "Kansas" 
( PREUSS,  6-7).  The  party  will  continue  along  the  south  side  of  the  Republican 
River,  apparently  staying  pretty  much  together  (at  least  in  camp)  until  JCF 
decides  to  push  ahead  with  a  small  party,  leaving  Thomas  Fitzpatrick  in 
charge  of  the  slow-moving  heavy  equipment. 

431 


neyed  on  the  line  usually  followed  by  the  trapping  and  hunting 
parties  of  the  Kansas  and  Delaware  Indians,  game  of  every  kind 
continued  very  shy  and  wild.  The  bottoms  which  form  the  immedi- 
ate valley  of  the  main  river  were  generally  about  three  miles  wide; 
having  a  rich  soil  of  black  vegetable  mould,  and,  for  a  prairie  coun- 
try, well  interspersed  with  wood.  The  country  was  every  where 
covered  with  a  considerable  variety  of  grasses — occasionally  poor 
and  thin,  but  far  more  frequently  luxuriant  and  rich.  We  had  been 
gradually  and  regularly  ascending  in  our  progress  westward,  and 
on  the  evening  of  the  14th,  when  we  encamped  on  a  little  creek  in 
the  valley  of  the  Republican,  265  miles  by  our  travelling  road  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Kansas,  we  were  at  an  elevation  of  1,520  feet.  That 
part  of  the  river  where  we  were  now  encamped  is  called  by  the  Indians 
the  Big  Timber.  Hitherto  our  route  had  been  laborious  and  ex- 
tremely slow,  the  unusually  wet  spring  and  constant  rain  having 
so  saturated  the  whole  country  that  it  was  necessary  to  bridge  every 
watercourse,  and,  for  days  together,  our  usual  march  averaged  only 
five  or  six  miles.  Finding  that  at  such  a  rate  of  travel  it  would  be 
impossible  to  comply  with  your  instructions,  I  determined  at  this 
place  to  divide  the  party,  and,  leaving  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  with  25  men 
in  charge  of  the  provisions  and  heavier  baggage  of  the  camp,  to  pro- 
ceed myself  in  advance,  with  a  light  party  of  15  men,  taking  with 
me  the  howitzer  and  the  light  wagon  which  carried  the  instruments. 
Accordingly,  on  the  morning  of  the  16th,  the  parties  separated; 
and,  bearing  a  little  out  from  the  river,  with  a  view  of  heading  some 
of  the  numerous  affluents,  after  a  few  hours  travel  over  somewhat 
broken  ground,  we  entered  upon  an  extensive  and  high  level  prairie, 
on  which  we  encamped  towards  evening  at  a  little  stream,  where  a 
single  dry  cottonwood  afiforded  the  necessary  fuel  for  preparing 
supper.  Among  a  variety  of  grasses  which  to-day  made  their  first 
appearance,  I  noticed  bunch  grass,  {festuca,)  and  buffalo  grass, 
(sesleria  dactyloides.)  Amorpha  canescens  {lead  plant)  continued 
the  characteristic  plant  of  the  country,  and  a  narrow-leaved  lathyrus 
occurred  during  the  morning  in  beautiful  patches.  Sida  coccinea 
occurred  frequently,  with  a  psoralia  near  psoralia  floribunda,  and  a 
number  of  plants  not  hitherto  met,  just  verging  into  bloom.  The 
water  on  which  we  had  encamped  belonged  to  Solomon's  fork  of 
the  Smoky-hill  river,  along  whose  tributaries  we  continued  to  travel 
for  several  days. 


432 


The  country  afforded  us  an  excellent  road,  the  route  being  gen- 
erally over  high  and  very  level  prairies;  and  we  met  with  no  other 
delay  than  being  frequently  obliged  to  bridge  one  of  the  numerous 
streams,  which  were  well  timbered  with  ash,  elm,  cottonwood,  and 
a  very  large  oak — the  latter  being,  occasionally,  five  and  six  feet  in 
diameter,  with  a  spreading  summit.  Sida  coccinea  is  very  frequent 
in  vermilion-colored  patches  on  the  high  and  low  prairie;  and  I  re- 
marked that  it  has  a  very  pleasant  perfume. 

The  wild  sensitive  plant  {schrankja  angustatd)  occurs  frequently, 
generally  on  the  dry  prairies,  in  the  valleys  of  streams,  and  fre- 
quently on  the  broken  prairie  bank.  I  remark  that  the  leaflets  close 
instantly  to  a  very  light  touch.  Amorpha,  with  the  same  psoralea, 
and  a  dwarf  species  of  lupinus,  are  the  characteristic  plants. 

On  the  19th,  in  the  afternoon,  we  crossed  the  Pawnee  road  to  the 
Arkansas,  and,  travelling  a  few  miles  onward,  the  monotony  of  the 
prairies  was  suddenly  dispelled  by  the  appearance  of  five  or  six 
buffalo  bulls,  forming  a  vanguard  of  immense  herds,  among  which 
we  were  travelling  a  few  days  afterwards.  Prairie  dogs  were  seen 
for  the  first  time  during  the  day;  and  we  had  the  good  fortune  to 
obtain  an  antelope  for  supper.  Our  elevation  had  now  increased  to 
1,900  feet.  Sida  coccinea  was  a  characteristic  on  the  creek  bottoms, 
and  buffalo  grass  is  becoming  abundant  on  the  higher  parts  of  the 
ridges. 

]tme  21. — During  the  forenoon  we  travelled  up  a  branch  of  the 
creek  on  which  we  had  encamped,  in  a  broken  country,  where,  how- 
ever, the  dividing  ridges  always  afforded  a  good  road.  Plants  were 
few ;  and  with  the  short  sward  of  the  buffalo  grass,  which  now  pre- 
vailed every  where,  giving  to  the  prairies  a  smooth  and  mossy  ap- 
pearance, were  mingled  frequent  patches  of  a  beautiful  red  grass, 
{aristida  palletjs,y  which  had  made  its  appearance  only  within  the 
last  few  days. 

We  halted  to  noon  at  a  solitary  cottonwood  in  a  hollow,  near 
which  was  killed  the  first  buffalo,  a  large  old  bull. 

Antelope  appeared  in  bands  during  the  day.  Crossing  here  to  the 
affluents  of  the  Republican,  we  encamped  on  a  fork,  about  forty 
feet  wide  and  one  foot  deep,  flowing  with  a  swift  current  over  a 
sandy  bed,  and   well   wooded   with   ash-leaved   maple,   (negundo 


9.  Not  identified. 


433 


fraxinifolium,)  elm,  cotton  wood,  and  a  few  white  oaks.  We  were 
visited  in  the  evening  by  a  very  violent  storm,  accompanied  by 
wind,  lightning,  and  thunder;  a  cold  rain  falling  in  torrents.  Ac- 
cording to  the  barometer,  our  elevation  was  2,130  feet  above  the 

At  noon,  on  the  23d,  we  descended  into  the  valley  of  a  principal 
fork  of  the  Republican,  a  beautiful  stream  with  a  dense  border  of 
wood,  consisting  principally  of  varieties  of  ash,  forty  feet  wide  and 
four  feet  deep.  It  was  musical  with  the  notes  of  many  birds,  which, 
from  the  vast  expanse  of  silent  prairie  around,  seemed  all  to  have 
collected  here.  We  continued  during  the  afternoon  our  route  along 
the  river,  which  was  populous  with  prairie  dogs,  (the  bottoms  being 
entirely  occupied  with  their  villages,)  and  late  in  the  evening  en- 
camped on  its  banks.  The  prevailing  timber  is  a  blue-foliaged  ash, 
{fraxinus,  near  F.  Americana,)  and  ash-leaved  maple.  With  these 
were  fraxinus  Americana,  cottonwood,  and  long-leaved  willow.  We 
gave  to  this  stream  the  name  of  Prairie  Dog  river.  Elevation  2,350 
feet.  Our  road  on  the  25th  lay  over  high  smooth  ridges,  3,100  feet 
above  the  sea;  buffalo  in  great  numbers,  absolutely  covering  the  face 
of  the  country.  At  evening  we  encamped  within  a  few  miles  of  the 
main  Republican,  on  a  little  creek,  where  the  air  was  fragrant  with 
the  perfume  of  artemisia  filifolia,  which  we  here  saw  for  the  first 
time,  and  which  was  now  in  bloom.  Shortly  after  leaving  our  en- 
campment on  the  26th,  we  found  suddenly  that  the  nature  of  the 
country  had  entirely  changed.  Bare  sand  hills  every  where  sur- 
rounded us  in  the  undulating  ground  along  which  we  were  moving; 
and  the  plants  peculiar  to  a  sandy  soil  made  their  appearance  in 
abundance.  A  few  miles  further  we  entered  the  valley  of  a  large 
stream,  afterwards  known  to  be  the  Republican  fork  of  the  Kansas, 
whose  shallow  waters,  with  a  depth  of  only  a  few  inches,  were 
spread  out  over  a  bed  of  yellowish  white  sand  600  yards  wide.  With 
the  exception  of  one  or  two  distant  and  detached  groves,  no  timber 
of  any  kind  was  to  be  seen ;  and  the  features  of  the  country  assumed 
a  desert  character,  with  which  the  broad  river,  struggling  for  ex- 
istence among  quicksands  along  the  treeless  banks,  was  strikingly 
in  keeping.  On  the  opposite  side,  the  broken  ridges  assumed  almost 
a  mountainous  appearance;  and,  fording  the  stream,  we  continued 
on  our  course  among  these  ridges,  and  encamped  late  in  the  evening 
at  a  little  pond  of  very  bad  water,  from  which  we  drove  away  a  herd  of 


434 


buffalo  that  were  standing  in  and  about  it.  Our  encampment  this 
evening  was  3,500  feet  above  the  sea.  We  travelled  now  for  several 
days  through  a  broken  and  dry  sandy  region,  about  4,000  feet  above 
the  sea,  where  there  were  no  running  streams;  and  some  anxiety 
was  constantly  felt  on  account  of  the  uncertainty  of  water,  which 
was  only  to  be  found  in  small  lakes  that  occurred  occasionally 
among  the  hills.  The  discovery  of  these  always  brought  pleasure 
to  the  camp,  as  around  them  were  generally  green  flats,  which 
afforded  abundant  pasturage  for  our  animals;  and  here  were  usually 
collected  herds  of  buffalo,  which  now  were  scattered  over  all  the 
country  in  countless  numbers. 

The  soil  of  bare  and  hot  sands  supported  a  varied  and  exuberant 
growth  of  plants,  which  were  much  farther  advanced  than  we  had 
previously  found  them,  and  whose  showy  bloom  somewhat  relieved 
the  appearance  of  general  sterility.  Crossing  the  summit  of  an  ele- 
vated and  continuous  range  of  rolling  hills,  on  the  afternoon  of  the 
30th  of  June  we  found  ourselves  overlooking  a  broad  and  misty 
valley,  where,  about  ten  miles  distant,  and  1,000  feet  below  us,  the 
South  fork  of  the  Platte  was  rolling  magnificently  along,  swollen 
with  the  waters  of  the  melting  snows.  It  was  in  strong  and  refresh- 
ing contrast  with  the  parched  country  from  which  we  had  just 
issued;  and  when,  at  night,  the  broad  expanse  of  water  grew  in- 
distinct, it  almost  seemed  that  we  had  pitched  our  tents  on  the  shore 
of  the  sea. 

Travelling  along  up  the  valley  of  the  river,  here  4,000  feet  above 
the  sea,  in  the  afternoon  of  July  1  we  caught  a  far  and  uncertain 
view  of  a  faint  blue  mass  in  the  west,  as  the  sun  sank  behind  it;  and 
from  our  camp  in  the  morning,  at  the  mouth  of  Bijou  [Creek], 
Long's  peak  and  the  neighboring  mountains  stood  out  into  the  sky, 
grand  and  luminously  white,  covered  to  their  bases  with  glittering 
snow. 

On  the  evening  of  the  3d,  as  we  were  journeying  along  the  par- 
tially overflowed  bottoms  of  the  Platte,  where  our  passage  stirred 
up  swarms  of  mosquitoes,  we  came  unexpectedly  upon  an  Indian, 
who  was  perched  on  a  bluff,  curiously  watching  the  movements  of 
our  caravan.  He  belonged  to  a  village  of  Oglallah  Sioux,  who  had 
lost  all  their  animals  in  the  severity  of  the  preceding  winter,  and 
were  now  on  their  way  up  the  Bijou  fork  to  beg  horses  from  the 
Arapahoes,  who  were  hunting  buffalo  at  the  head  of  that  river. 


435 


Several  came  into  our  camp  at  noon;  and,  as  they  were  hungry,  as 
usual,  they  were  provided  with  buffalo  meat,  of  which  the  hunters 
had  brought  in  an  abundant  supply. 

About  noon,  on  the  4th  of  July,  we  arrived  at  the  fort,  where  Mr. 
St.  Vrain  received  us  with  his  customary  kindness,  and  invited  us 
to  join  him  in  a  feast  which  had  been  prepared  in  honor  of  the 
day. 

Our  animals  were  very  much  worn  out,  and  our  stock  of  pro- 
visions entirely  exhausted  when  we  arrived  at  the  fort;  but  I  was 
disappointed  in  my  hope  of  obtaining  relief,  as  I  found  it  in  a  very 
impoverished  condition;  and  we  were  able  to  procure  only  a  little 
unbolted  Mexican  flour,  and  some  salt,  with  a  few  pounds  of  powder 
and  lead. 

As  regarded  provisions,  it  did  not  much  matter  in  a  country  where 
rarely  the  day  passed  without  seeing  some  kind  of  game,  and  where 
it  was  frequently  abundant.  It  was  a  rare  thing  to  lie  down  hungry, 
and  we  had  already  learned  to  think  bread  a  luxury ;  but  we  could 
not  proceed  without  animals,  and  our  own  were  not  capable  of 
prosecuting  the  journey  beyond  the  mountains  without  relief. 

I  had  been  informed  that  a  large  number  of  mules  had  recendy 
arrived  at  Taos,  from  Upper  California;  and  as  our  friend,  Mr. 
Maxwell,  was  about  to  continue  his  journey  to  that  place,  where  a 
portion  of  his  family  resided,  I  engaged  him  to  purchase  for  me  10 
or  12  mules,  with  the  understanding  that  he  should  pack  them  with 
provisions  and  other  necessaries,  and  meet  me  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Fontaine  qui  houit,  on  the  Arkansas  river,  to  which  point  I  would  be 
led  in  the  course  of  the  survey .^^ 

Agreeably  to  his  own  request,  and  in  the  conviction  that  his  hab- 
its of  life  and  education  had  not  qualified  him  to  endure  the  hard 
life  of  a  voyageur,  I  discharged  here  one  of  my  party,  Mr.  Oscar 
Sarpy,  having  furnished  him  with  arms  and  means  of  transporta- 
tion to  Fort  Laramie,  where  he  would  be  in  the  line  of  caravans 
returning  to  the  States. 

At  daybreak,  on  the  6th  of  July,  Maxwell  was  on  his  way  to  Taos; 
and  a  few  hours  after  we  also  had  recommenced  our  journey  up 
the  Platte,  which  was  continuously  timbered  with  cottonwood  and 
willow,  on  a  generally  sandy  soil.  Passing  on  the  way  the  remains  of 


10.  In  the  fall  of  1842,  a  trading  post  had  been  established  at  the  mouth  of 
Fountain  Creek  by  George  Simpson,  J.  B.  Doyle,  and  Alexander  Barclay.  It 
became  the  city  of  Pueblo,  Colo. 


two  abandoned  forts,  (one  of  which,  however,  was  still  in  good 
condition,)  we  reached,  in  10  miles,  Fort  Lancaster,  the  trading  es- 
tablishment of  Mr.  Lupton,^^  His  post  was  beginning  to  assume  the 
appearance  of  a  comfortable  farm;  stock,  hogs,  and  cattle,  were 
ranging  about  on  the  prairie;  there  were  different  kinds  of  poultry; 
and  there  was  the  wreck  of  a  promising  garden,  in  which  a  con- 
siderable variety  of  vegetables  had  been  in  a  flourishing  condition, 
but  it  had  been  almost  entirely  ruined  by  the  recent  high  waters.  I 
remained  to  spend  with  him  an  agreeable  hour,  and  sat  off  in  a  cold 
storm  of  rain,  which  was  accompanied  with  violent  thunder  and 
lightning.  We  encamped  immediately  on  the  river,  16  miles  from 
St.  Vrain's.  Several  Arapahoes,  on  their  way  to  the  village  which 
was  encamped  a  few  miles  above  us,  passed  by  the  camp  in  the 
course  of  the  afternoon.  Night  sat  in  stormy  and  cold,  with  heavy 
and  continuous  rain,  which  lasted  until  morning. 

July  7. — We  made  this  morning  an  early  start,  continuing  to  travel 
up  the  Platte;  and  in  a  few  miles  frequent  bands  of  horses  and 
mules,  scattered  for  several  miles  round  about,  indicated  our  ap- 
proach to  the  Arapaho  village,  which  we  found  encamped  in  a 
beautiful  bottom,  and  consisting  of  about  160  lodges.  It  appeared 
extremely  populous,  with  a  great  number  of  children;  a  circum- 
stance which  indicated  a  regular  supply  of  the  means  of  subsistence. 
The  chiefs,  who  were  gathered  together  at  the  farther  end  of  the 
village,  received  us  (as  probably  strangers  are  always  received  to 
whom  they  desire  to  show  respect  or  regard)  by  throwing  their 
arms  around  our  necks  and  embracing  us. 

It  required  some  skill  in  horsemanship  to  keep  the  saddle  during 
the  performance  of  this  ceremony,  as  our  American  horses  ex- 
hibited for  them  the  same  fear  they  have  for  a  bear  or  any  other  wild 
animal.  Having  very  few  goods  with  me,  I  was  only  able  to  make 


11.  Lancaster  P.  Lupton  (1807-85),  a  graduate  of  the  U.S.  Military 
Academy,  had  accompanied  Col.  Henry  Dodge's  expedition  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains  in  1835.  Resigning  from  the  Army,  he  built  the  adobe  structure — 
sometimes  called  Fort  Lupton — on  the  right  bank  of  the  Platte  about  ten  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Vrain  (a.  hafen  [2];  lecompte  [2]).  Also  visit- 
ing at  Lupton's  fort  on  6  July  1843  was  Rufus  B.  Sage,  whom  JCF  had  en- 
countered on  his  previous  expedition  (sage,  2:268-69).  The  two  abandoned 
forts  he  mentions  passing  were  Fort  Vasquez,  dating  from  1835,  of  which 
there  are  still  ruins  about  a  mile  south  of  Platteville,  Colo.,  and  Fort  Jackson, 
near  lone,  Colo.,  built  in  1837.  As  we  have  remarked  before  in  connection 
with  Fort  Bridger,  JCF  was  never  very  interested  in  the  history  or  identity  of 
the  abandoned  posts  he  encountered. 

437 


them  a  meager  present,  accounting  for  the  poverty  of  the  gift  by  ex- 
plaining that  my  goods  had  been  left  with  the  wagons  in  charge  of 
Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  who  was  well  known  to  them  as  the  White  Head,  or 
the  Broken  Hand.  I  saw  here,  as  I  had  remarked  in  an  Arapaho 
village  the  preceding  year,  near  the  lodges  of  the  chiefs,  tall  tripods 
of  white  poles  supporting  their  spears  and  shields,  which  showed  it 
to  be  a  regular  custom. 

Though  disappointed  in  obtaining  the  presents  which  had  been 
evidently  expected,  they  behaved  very  courteously,  and,  after  a  little 
conversation  I  left  them,  and,  continuing  on  up  the  river,  halted  to 
noon  on  the  bluff,  as  the  bottoms  are  almost  inundated;  continuing 
in  the  afternoon  our  route  along  the  mountains,  which  were  dark, 
misty,  and  shrouded — threatening  a  storm;  the  snow  peaks  some- 
times glittering  through  the  clouds  beyond  the  first  ridge. 

We  surprised  a  grizzly  bear  sauntering  along  the  river;  which, 
raising  himself  upon  his  hind  legs,  took  a  deliberate  survey  of  us, 
that  did  not  appear  very  satisfactory  to  him,  and  he  scrambled  into 
the  river  and  swam  to  the  opposite  side.  We  halted  for  the  night  a 
little  above  Cherry  creek;  the  evening  cloudy,  with  many  mos- 
quitoes. Some  indifferent  observations  placed  the  camp  in  latitude 
39°  43'  53'',  and  chronometric  longitude  105°  24'  34". 

July  8. — We  continued  to-day  to  travel  up  the  Platte;  the  morning 
pleasant,  with  a  prospect  of  fairer  weather.  During  the  forenoon  our 
way  lay  over  a  more  broken  country,  with  a  gravelly  and  sandy  sur- 
face ;  although  the  immediate  bottom  of  the  river  was  a  good  soil,  of 
a  dark  sandy  mould,  resting  upon  a  stratum  of  large  pebbles,  or 
rolled  stones,  as  at  Laramie  fork.  On  our  right,  and  apparently  very 
near,  but  probably  8  or  10  miles  distant,  and  two  or  three  thousand 
feet  above  us,  ran  the  first  range  of  the  mountains,  like  a  dark  cor- 
niced line,  in  clear  contrast  with  the  great  snowy  chain  which,  im- 
mediately beyond,  rose  glittering  five  thousand  feet  above  them.  We 
caught  this  morning  a  view  of  Pike's  peak;  but  it  appeared  for  a 
moment  only,  as  clouds  rose  early  over  the  mountains,  and 
shrouded  them  in  mist  and  rain  all  the  day.  In  the  first  range  were 
visible,  as  at  the  Red  Buttes  on  the  North  fork,  very  lofty  escarp- 
ments of  red  rock.  While  travelling  through  this  region,  I  remarked 
that  always  in  the  morning  the  lofty  peaks  were  visible  and  bright, 
but  very  soon  small  white  clouds  began  to  settle  around  them — 
brewing  thicker  and  darker  as  the  day  advanced,  until  the  afternoon, 
when  the  thunder  began  to  roll;  and  invariably  at  evening  we  had 

438 


more  or  less  of  a  thunder  storm.  At  11  o'clock,  and  21  miles  from 
St.  Vrain's  fort,  we  reached  a  point  in  this  southern  fork  of  the 
Platte,  where  the  stream  is  divided  into  three  forks;  two  of  these 
(one  of  them  being  much  the  largest)  issuing  directly  from  the 
mountains  on  the  west,  and  forming,  with  the  easternmost  branch, 
a  river  of  the  plains.  The  elevation  of  this  point  is  about  5,500  feet 
above  the  sea;  this  river  falling  2,800  feet  in  a  distance  of  316  miles, 
to  its  junction  with  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  In  this  estimate,  the 
elevation  of  the  junction  is  assumed  as  given  by  our  barometrical 
observations  in  1842. 

On  the  easternmost  branch,  up  which  we  took  our  way,  we  first 
came  among  the  pines  growing  on  the  top  of  a  very  high  bank,  and 
where  we  halted  on  it  to  noon;  quaking  asp  {populus  tremuloides) 
was  mixed  with  the  cottonwood,  and  there  were  excellent  grass  and 
rushes  for  the  animals. 

During  the  morning  there  occurred  many  beautiful  flowers, 
which  we  had  not  hitherto  met.  Among  them,  the  common  blue 
flowering  flax  made  its  first  appearance;  and  a  tall  and  handsome 
species  of  gilia,  with  slender  scarlet  flowers,  which  appeared  yester- 
day for  the  first  time,  was  very  frequent  to-day. 

We  had  found  very  little  game  since  leaving  the  fort,  and  provisions 
began  to  get  unpleasantly  scant,  as  we  had  had  no  meat  for  sev- 
eral days;  but  towards  sundown,  when  we  had  already  made  up  our 
minds  to  sleep  another  night  without  supper,  Lajeunesse  had  the 
good  fortune  to  kill  a  fine  deer,  which  he  found  feeding  in  a  hollow 
near  by;  and  as  the  rain  began  to  fall,  threatening  an  unpleasant 
night,  we  hurried  to  secure  a  comfortable  camp  in  the  timber. 

To-night  the  camp  fires,  girdled  with  appolas  of  fine  venison, 
looked  cheerful  in  spite  of  the  stormy  weather. 

July  9. — On  account  of  the  low  state  of  our  provisions  and  the 
scarcity  of  game,  I  determined  to  vary  our  route,  and  proceed  several 
camps  to  the  eastward,  in  the  hope  of  falling  in  with  the  buffalo. 
This  route  along  the  dividing  grounds  between  the  South  fork  of 
the  Platte  and  the  Arkansas,  would  also  afford  some  additional  geo- 
graphical information.  This  morning,  therefore,  we  turned  to  the 
eastward,  along  the  upper  waters  of  the  stream  on  which  we  had 
encamped,  entering  a  country  of  picturesque  and  varied  scenery; 
broken  into  rocky  hills  of  singular  shapes;  little  valleys,  with  pure 
crystal  water,  here  leaping  swiftly  along,  and  there  losing  itself  in 
the  sands;  green  spots  of  luxuriant  grass,  flowers  of  all  colors,  and 

439 


timber  of  difTerent  kinds — every  thing  to  give  it  a  varied  beauty, 
except  game.  To  one  of  these  remarkably  shaped  hills,  having  on  the 
summit  a  circular  flat  rock  two  or  three  hundred  yards  in  circum- 
ference, some  one  gave  the  name  of  Poundcake,  which  it  has  been 
permitted  to  retain,  as  our  hungry  people  seemed  to  think  it  a  very 
agreeable  comparison.  In  the  afternoon  a  buffalo  bull  was  killed,  and 
we  encamped  on  a  small  stream,  near  the  road  which  runs  from  St. 
Vrain's  fort  to  the  Arkansas. 

]uly  10. — Snow  fell  heavily  on  the  mountains  during  the  night, 
and  Pike's  peak  this  morning  is  luminous  and  grand,  covered  from 
the  summit  as  low  down  as  we  can  see,  with  glittering  white.  Leav- 
ing the  encampment  at  6  o'clock,  we  continued  our  easterly  course 
over  a  rolling  country,  near  to  the  high  ridges,  which  are  generally 
rough  and  rocky,  with  a  coarse  conglomerate  displayed  in  masses, 
and  covered  with  pines.  The  rock  is  very  friable,  and  it  is  un- 
doubtedly from  its  decomposition  that  the  prairies  derive  their  sandy 
and  gravelly  formation.  In  6  miles  we  crossed  a  head  water  of  the 
Kioway  river,  on  which  we  found  a  strong  fort  and  coral  that  had 
been  built  in  the  spring,  and  halted  to  noon  on  the  principal  branch 
of  the  river.  During  the  morning  our  route  led  over  a  dark  vegetable 
mould,  mixed  with  sand  and  gravel,  the  characteristic  plant  being 
esparcette,  {pnobrychis  sativa^^^  ^  species  of  clover  which  is  much 
used  in  certain  parts  of  Germany  for  pasturage  of  stock — principally 
hogs.  It  is  sown  on  rocky  waste  ground,  which  would  otherwise  be 
useless,  and  grows  very  luxuriantly,  requiring  only  a  renewal  of  the 
seed  about  once  in  fifteen  years.  Its  abundance  here  greatly  adds  to 
the  pastoral  value  of  this  region.  A  species  of  antennaria^^  in  flower 
was  very  common  along  the  line  of  the  road,  and  the  creeks  were 
timbered  with  willow  and  pine.  We  encamped  on  Bijou's  fork,  the 
water  of  which,  unlike  the  clear  streams  we  had  previously  crossed, 
is  of  a  whitish  color,  and  the  soil  of  the  bottom  a  very  hard,  tough 
clay.  There  was  a  prairie  dog  village  on  the  bottom,  and,  in  the 
endeavor  to  unearth  one  of  the  little  animals,  we  labored  ineffec- 
tually in  the  tough  clay  until  dark.  After  descending,  with  a  slight 
inclination,  until  it  had  gone  the  depth  of  two  feet,  the  hole  sud- 
denly turned  a  sharp  angle  in  another  direction  for  one  more  foot 
in  depth,  when  it  again  turned,  taking  an  ascending  direction  to 


12.  Onobrychis  arenaria  (Kit.)  DC.  Perhaps  introduced  about  trading  posts 
by  voyageurs,  as  suggested  in  ewan,  28. 

13.  Probably  Antennaria  microphylla  Rydb. 

440 


the  next  nearest  hole.  I  have  no  doubt  that  all  their  little  habitations 
communicate  with  each  other.  The  greater  part  of  the  people  were 
sick  to-day,  and  I  was  inclined  to  attribute  their  indisposition  to  the 
meat  of  the  bull  which  had  been  killed  the  previous  day. 

July  11. — There  were  no  indications  of  buffalo  having  been  re- 
cently in  the  neighborhood;  and,  unwilling  to  travel  farther  east- 
ward, I  turned  this  morning  to  the  southward,  up  the  valley  of 
Bijou.  Esparcette  occurred  universally,  and  among  the  plants  on  the 
river  I  noticed,  for  the  first  time  during  this  journey,  a  few  small 
bushes  of  the  absinthe  of  the  voyageurs,  which  is  commonly  used  for 
fire  wood,  {artemisia  tridentata.y^  Yesterday  and  to-day  the  road 
has  been  ornamented  with  the  showy  bloom  of  a  beautiful  lupinus, 
a  characteristic  in  many  parts  of  the  mountain  region,  on  which 
were  generally  great  numbers  of  an  insect  with  very  bright  colors, 
(litta  vesicatoria.) 

As  we  were  riding  quietly  along,  eagerly  searching  every  hollow 
in  search  of  game,  we  discovered,  at  a  little  distance  in  the  prairie,  a 
large  grizzly  bear,  so  busily  engaged  in  digging  roots  that  he  did 
not  perceive  us  until  we  were  galloping  down  a  little  hill  fifty  yards 
from  him,  when  he  charged  upon  us  with  sudden  energy,  that  sev- 
eral of  us  came  near  losing  our  saddles.  Being  wounded,  he  com- 
menced retreating  to  a  rocky  piney  ridge  near  by,  from  which  we 
were  not  able  to  cut  him  off,  and  we  entered  the  timber  with  him. 
The  way  was  very  much  blocked  up  with  fallen  timber;  and  we 
kept  up  a  running  fight  for  some  time,  animated  by  the  bear  charg- 
ing among  the  horses.  He  did  not  fall  until  after  he  had  received 
six  rifle  balls.  He  was  miserably  poor,  and  added  nothing  to  our 
stock  of  provisions. 

We  followed  the  stream  to  its  head  in  a  broken  ridge,  which, 
according  to  the  barometer,  was  about  7,500  feet  above  the  sea.  This 
is  a  piney  elevation,  into  which  the  prairies  are  gathered,  and  from 
which  the  waters  flow,  in  almost  every  direction,  to  the  Arkansas, 
Platte,  and  Kansas  rivers;  the  latter  stream  having  here  its  remotest 
sources.  Although  somewhat  rocky  and  broken,  and  covered  with 
pines,  in  comparison  with  the  neighboring  mountains,  it  scarcely 
forms  an  interruption  to  the  great  prairie  plains  which  sweep  up  to 
their  bases. 

The  annexed  view  of  Pike's  peak  from  this  camp,  at  the  distance 

14.  JCF  did  not  distinguish  sagebrush  species.  Several  artemisias  of  the  same 
habit  occur  in  this  region. 

441 


of  40  miles,  represents  very  correctly  the  manner  in  which  this 
mountain  barrier  presents  itself  to  travellers  on  the  plains,  which 
sweep  almost  directly  to  its  bases;  an  immense  and  comparatively 
smooth  and  grassy  prairie,  in  very  strong  contrast  with  the  black 
masses  of  timber,  and  the  glittering  snow  above  them.  This  is  the 
picture  which  has  been  left  upon  my  mind;  and  I  annex  this  sketch 
[p.  444],  to  convey  to  you  the  same  impression.  With  occasional 
exceptions,  comparatively  so  very  small  as  not  to  require  mention, 
these  prairies  are  every  where  covered  with  a  close  and  vigorous 
growth  of  a  great  variety  of  grasses,  among  which  the  most  abun- 
dant is  the  buffalo  grass,  (sesleria  dactyloides.)  Between  the  Platte 
and  Arkansas  rivers,  that  part  of  this  region  which  forms  the  basin 
drained  by  the  waters  of  the  Kansas,  with  which  our  operations 
made  us  more  particularly  acquainted,  is  based  upon  a  formation  of 
calcareous  rocks.  The  soil  of  all  this  country  is  excellent,  admirably 
adapted  to  agricultural  purposes,  and  would  support  a  large  agricul- 
tural and  pastoral  population.  A  glance  at  the  map  accompanying 
this  report,  along  our  several  lines  of  travel,  will  show  you  that  this 
plain  is  watered  by  many  streams.  Throughout  the  western  half  of 
the  plain,  these  are  shallow,  with  sandy  beds,  becoming  deeper  as 
they  reach  the  richer  lands  approaching  the  Missouri  river;  they 
generally  have  bottom  lands,  bordered  by  bluffs  varying  from  50  to 
500  feet  in  height.  In  all  this  region  the  timber  is  entirely  confined 
to  the  streams.  In  the  eastern  half,  where  the  soil  is  a  deep,  rich, 
vegetable  mould,  retentive  of  rain  and  moisture,  it  is  of  vigorous 
growth,  and  of  many  different  kinds;  and  throughout  the  western 
half  it  consists  entirely  of  various  species  of  cottonwood,  which  de- 
serves to  be  called  the  tree  of  the  desert — growing  in  sandy  soils, 
where  no  other  tree  will  grow;  pointing  out  the  existence  of  water, 
and  furnishing  to  the  traveller  fuel,  and  food  for  his  animals.  Add 
to  this,  that  the  western  border  of  the  plain  is  occupied  by  the  Sioux, 
Arapaho,  and  Cheyenne  nations  and  the  Pawnees  and  other  half- 
civilized  tribes  in  its  eastern  limits,  for  whom  the  intermediate 
country  is  a  war  ground,  you  will  have  a  tolerably  correct  idea  of 
the  appearance  and  condition  of  the  country.  Descending  a  some- 
what precipitous  and  rocky  hill  side  among  the  pines;  which  rarely 
appear  elsewhere  than  on  the  ridge,  we  encamped  at  its  foot,  where 
there  were  several  springs,  which  you  will  find  laid  down  upon  the 
map  as  one  of  the  extreme  sources  of  the  Smoky  Hill  fork  of  the 
Kansas.  From  this  place  the  view  extended  over  the  Arkansas  valley, 

442 


and  the  Spanish  peaks  in  the  south  beyond.  As  the  greater  part  of 
the  men  continued  sick,  I  encamped  here  for  the  day,  and  ascer- 
tained conclusively,  from  experiments  on  myself,  that  their  illness 
was  caused  by  the  meat  of  the  buffalo  bull. 

On  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  near  the  camp,  were  several  rock- 
built  forts,  which  in  front  were  very  difficult  of  approach,  and  in  the 
rear  were  protected  by  a  precipice  entirely  beyond  the  reach  of  a  rifle 
ball.  The  evening  was  tolerably  clear,  with  a  temperature  at  sunset 
of  63°.  Elevation  of  the  camp  7,300  feet. 

Turning  the  next  day  to  the  southwest,  we  reached,  in  the  course 
of  the  morning,  the  wagon  road  to  the  settlements  on  the  Arkansas 
river,  and  encamped  in  the  afternoon  on  the  Fontaine-qui-bouit  (or 
Boiling  Spring)  river,  where  it  was  50  feet  wide,  with  a  swift 
current.  I  afterwards  found  that  the  spring  and  river  owe  their 
names  to  the  bubbling  of  the  effervescing  gas  in  the  former,  and  not 
to  the  temperature  of  the  water,  which  is  cold.  During  the  morning, 
a  tall  species  of  gilia,  with  a  slender  white  flower,  was  characteristic ; 
and,  in  the  latter  part  of  the  day,  another  variety  of  esparcette,  (wild 
clover,)  having  the  flower  white,  was  equally  so.  We  had  a  fine 
sunset  of  golden  brown;  and,  in  the  evening,  a  very  bright  moon, 
with  the  near  mountains,  made  a  beautiful  scene.  Thermometer,  at 
sunset,  was  69°,  and  our  elevation  above  the  sea  5,800. 

]uly  13. — The  morning  was  clear,  with  a  northwesterly  breeze, 
and  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  at  46°.  There  were  no  clouds  along 
the  mountains,  and  the  morning  sun  showed  very  clearly  their 
rugged  character. 

We  resumed  our  journey  very  early  down  the  river,  following  an 
extremely  good  lodge  trail,  which  issues  by  the  head  of  this  stream 
from  the  bayou  Salade,  a  high  mountain  valley  behind  Pike's  peak. 
The  soil  along  the  road  was  sandy  and  gravelly,  and  the  river  well 
timbered.  We  halted  to  noon  under  the  shade  of  some  fine  large 
cottonwoods,  our  animals  luxuriating  on  rushes  {equisetum  hye- 
male,y''  which,  along  this  river,  were  remarkably  abundant.  A 
variety  of  cactus  made  its  appearance,  and  among  several  strange 
plants  were  numerous  and  beautiful  clusters  of  a  plant  resembling 
mirabilis  jalapa^^  with  a  handsome  convolvulus  I  had  not  hitherto 
seen,  (calystegia.)  In  the  afternoon  we  passed  near  the  encampment 


15.  "Rushes"  favored  by  grazing  animals  suggests  Juncus  sp.,   wiregrass, 
rather  than  horsetails  (Equisetum). 

16.  Mirabilis  multiflora  (Torr.)  Gray. 

443 


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444 


of  a  hunter  named  Maurice,  who  had  been  out  into  the  plains  in 
pursuit  of  buffalo  calves,  a  number  of  which  I  saw  among  some 
domestic  cattle  near  his  lodge.  Shortly  afterwards,  a  party  of  moun- 
taineers galloped  up  to  us — fine-looking  and  hardy  men,  dressed  in 
skins  and  mounted  on  good  fat  horses;  among  them  were  several 
Connecticut  men,  a  portion  of  Wyeth's  party,  whom  I  had  seen  the 
year  before,  and  others  were  men  from  the  western  States. 

Continuing  down  the  river,  we  encamped  at  noon  on  the  14th  at 
its  mouth,  on  the  Arkansas  river.  A  short  distance  above  our  en- 
campment, on  the  left  bank  of  the  Arkansas,  is  a  pueblo,  (as  the 
Mexicans  call  their  civilized  Indian  villages,)  where  a  number  of 
mountaineers,  who  had  married  Spanish  women  in  the  valley  of 
Taos,  had  collected  together,  and  occupied  themselves  in  farming, 
carrying  on  at  the  same  time  a  desultory  Indian  trade.  They  were 
principally  Americans,  and  treated  us  with  all  the  rude  hospitality 
their  situation  admitted;  but  as  all  commercial  intercourse  with 
New  Mexico  was  now  interrupted,  in  consequence  of  Mexican  de- 
crees to  that  effect,  there  was  nothing  to  be  had  in  the  way  of  pro- 
visions. They  had,  however,  a  fine  stock  of  cattle,  and  furnished  us 
an  abundance  of  excellent  milk.  I  learned  here  that  Maxwell,  in 
company  with  two  other  men,  had  started  for  Taos  on  the  morning 
of  the  9th,  but  that  he  would  probably  fall  into  the  hands  of  the 
Utah  Indians,  commonly  called  the  Spanish  Yutes.  As  Maxwell  had 
no  knowledge  of  their  being  in  the  vicinity  when  he  crossed  the 
Arkansas,  his  chance  of  escape  was  very  doubtful;  but  I  did  not 
entertain  much  apprehension  for  his  life,  having  great  confidence  in 
his  prudence  and  courage.  I  was  further  informed  that  there  had 
been  a  popular  tumult  among  the  pueblos,  or  civilized  Indians, 
residing  near  Taos,  against  the  "foreigjiers"  of  that  place,  in  which 
they  had  plundered  their  houses  and  ill-treated  their  families. 
Among  those  whose  property  had  been  destroyed,  was  Mr.  Beau- 
bien,"  father-in-law  of  Maxwell,  from  whom  I  had  expected  to 
obtain  supplies,  and  who  had  been  obliged  to  make  his  escape  to 
Santa  Fe. 

By  this  position  of  affairs,  our  expectation  of  obtaining  supplies 
from  Taos  was  cut  off.  I  had  here  the  satisfaction  to  meet  our  good 
buffalo  hunter  of  1842,  Christopher  Carson,  whose  services  I  con- 


17.  Charles  Beaubien,  an  active  merchant  in  the  Southwest  and  one  of  the 
two  owners  of  the  vast  Beaubien-Miranda  tract  granted  by  the  Mexican  gov- 
ernment. 

445 


sidered  myself  fortunate  to  secure  again;  and  as  a  reinforcement  of 
mules  was  absolutely  necessary,  I  despatched  him  immediately,  with 
an  account  of  our  necessities,  to  Mr.  Charles  Bent,  whose  principal 
post  is  on  the  Arkansas  river,  about  75  miles  below  Fontaine-qui- 
bouit}^  He  was  directed  to  proceed  from  that  post  by  the  nearest 
route  across  the  country,  and  meet  me  with  what  animals  he  should 
be  able  to  obtain  at  St.  Vrain's  fort.  I  also  admitted  into  the  party 
Charles  Towns — a  native  of  St.  Louis,  a  serviceable  man,  with  many 
of  the  qualities  of  a  good  voyageur.^*'  According  to  our  observations, 
the  latitude  of  the  mouth  of  the  river  is  38°  15' 23";  its  longitude 
104°  58'  30";  and  its  elevation  above  the  sea  4,880  feet. 

On  the  morning  of  the  16th,  the  time  for  Maxwell's  arrival  having 
expired,  we  resumed  our  journey,  leaving  for  him  a  note,  in  which  it 
was  stated  that  I  would  wait  for  him  at  St.  Vrain's  fort  until  the 
morning  of  the  26th,  in  the  event  that  he  should  succeed  in  his 
commission.  Our  direction  was  up  the  Boiling  Spring  river,  it  being 
my  intention  to  visit  the  celebrated  springs  from  which  the  river 
takes  its  name,  and  which  are  on  its  upper  waters,  at  the  foot  of  Pike's 
peak.  Our  animals  fared  well  while  we  were  on  this  stream,  there  be- 
ing every  where  a  great  abundance  of  prele.  Ipomea  leptophylla,  in 
bloom,  was  a  characteristic  plant  along  the  river,  generally  in  large 
bunches,  with  two  to  five  flowers  on  each.  Beautiful  clusters  of  the 
plant  resembling  mirabilis  jalapa  were  numerous,  and  glycyrrhiza 
lepidota  was  a  characteristic  of  the  bottoms.  Currants  nearly  ripe  were 
abundant,  and  among  the  shrubs  which  covered  the  bottom  was  a 
very  luxuriant  growth  of  chenopodiaceous  shrubs,^"  four  to  six  feet 
high. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  17th  we  entered  among  the  broken  ridges 
at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  where  the  river  made  several  forks. 
Leaving  the  camp  to  follow  slowly,  I  rode  ahead  in  the  afternoon 
in  search  of  the  springs.  In  the  mean  time,  the  clouds,  which  had  been 

18.  With  his  brother  WilHam,  and  Ceran  St.  Vrain,  Charles  Bent  (1799- 
1847)  had  built  a  busy  trading  post,  Bent's  Fort,  eighty  miles  northeast  of 
Taos,  during  1828-32.  Appointed  governor  of  New  Mexico  in  1846,  Charles 
was  killed  the  following  year  during  an  Indian  uprising  at  Taos.  For  back- 
ground on  the  Bents  and  their  enterprise,  see  lavender,  hyde,  taylor,  and 

DUNHAM    [1]. 

19.  Charles  Town  or  Towne,  a  friend  of  the  Bents  who  had  been  in  the 
West  only  since  1841,  now  joined  ICF  as  a  hunter.  Town  was  killed  by 
Apaches  and  Utes  in  Manco  de  Burro  Pass,  east  of  Raton,  in  1848.  Maxwell 
was  wounded  in  the  same  fray  (lecompte  [1]). 

20.  Atriplex  canescens  (Pursh)  Nutt. 

446 


gathered  all  the  afternoon  over  the  mountains,  began  to  roll  down 
their  sides;  and  a  storm  so  violent  burst  upon  me,  that  it  appeared 
I  had  entered  the  storehouse  of  the  thunder  storms.  I  continued, 
however,  to  ride  along  up  the  river  until  about  sunset,  and  was  be- 
ginning to  be  doubtful  of  finding  the  springs  before  the  next  day, 
when  I  came  suddenly  upon  a  large  smooth  rock  about  twenty  yards 
in  diameter,  where  the  water  from  several  springs  was  bubbling  and 
boiling  up  in  the  midst  of  a  white  incrustation  with  which  it  had 
covered  a  portion  of  the  rock.  As  this  did  not  correspond  with  a 
description  given  me  by  the  hunters,  I  did  not  stop  to  taste  the  water, 
but,  dismounting,  walked  a  little  way  up  the  river,  and,  passing 
through  a  narrow  thicket  of  shrubbery  bordering  the  stream, 
stepped  directly  upon  a  huge  white  rock,  at  the  foot  of  which  the 
river,  already  become  a  torrent,  foamed  along,  broken  by  a  small 
fall.  A  deer  which  had  been  drinking  at  the  spring  was  startled  by 
my  approach,  and,  springing  across  the  river,  bounded  off  up  the 
mountain.  In  the  upper  part  of  the  rock,  which  had  apparently  been 
formed  by  deposition,  was  a  beautiful  white  basin,  overhung  by 
currant  bushes,  in  which  the  cold  clear  water  bubbled  up,  kept  in 
constant  motion  by  the  escaping  gas,  and  overflowing  the  rock, 
which  it  had  almost  entirely  covered  with  a  smooth  crust  of  glisten- 
ing white.  I  had  all  day  refrained  from  drinking,  reserving  myself 
for  the  spring;  and  as  I  could  not  well  be  more  wet  than  the  rain 
had  already  made  me,  I  lay  down  by  the  side  of  the  basin,  and  drank 
heartily  of  the  delightful  water.  The  annexed  sketch  [p.  444]  is  only 
a  rude  one,  but  it  will  enable  you  to  form  some  idea  of  the  character 
of  the  scenery  and  the  beauty  of  this  spot,  immediately  at  the  foot  of 
lofty  mountains,  beautifully  timbered,  which  sweep  closely  round, 
shutting  up  the  little  valley  in  a  kind  of  cove.  As  it  was  beginning  to 
grow  dark,  I  rode  quickly  down  the  river,  on  which  I  found  the 
camp  a  few  miles  below.^^ 

The  morning  of  the  18th  was  beautiful  and  clear,  and,  all  the 
people  being  anxious  to  drink  of  these  famous  waters,  we  encamped 
immediately  at  the  springs,  and  spent  there  a  very  pleasant  day.  On 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  another  locality  of  springs,  which  are 


21.  JCF  has  reconnoitered  the  Manitou  Springs  area  near  present  Colorado 
Springs,  Colo.,  and  is  now  heading  back  for  Fort  St.  Vrain,  going  up  Monu- 
ment Creek,  northward  to  affluents  of  the  Platte,  camping  for  two  days  on 
what  his  map  calls  Vermillion  Creek  but  which  probably  was  the  stream  now 
called  East  Plum  Creek. 


447 


entirely  of  the  same  nature.  The  water  has  a  very  agreeable  taste, 
which  Mr.  Preuss  found  very  much  to  resemble  that  of  the  famous 
Selter  springs  in  the  grand  duchy  of  Nassau,  a  country  famous  for 
wine  and  mineral  waters;  and  it  is  almost  entirely  of  the  same 
character,  though  still  more  agreeable  than  that  of  the  famous  Beer 
springs,  near  Bear  river  of  the  Great  Salt  lake.  The  following  is  an 
analysis  of  an  incrustation  with  which  the  water  had  covered  a  piece 
of  wood  lying  on  the  rock: 

Carbonate  of  lime 92.25 

Carbonate  of  magnesia      ....  1.21 
Sulphate  of  lime 

Chloride  of  calcium     >      .        .        .        .  .23 
Chloride  of  magnesia 

Silica            1.50 

Vegetable  matter .20 

Moisture  and  loss 4.61 

100.00 


At  11  o'clock,  when  the  temperature  of  the  air  was  73°,  that  of  the 
water  in  this  was  60.5° ;  and  that  of  the  upper  spring,  which  issued 
from  the  flat  rock,  more  exposed  to  the  sun,  was  69°.  At  sunset, 
when  the  temperature  of  the  air  was  66°,  that  of  the  lower  springs 
was  58°,  and  that  of  the  upper  61°. 

July  19. — A  beautiful  and  clear  morning,  with  a  slight  breeze 
from  the  northwest;  the  temperature  of  air  at  sunrise  being  57.5°.  At 
this  time  the  temperature  of  the  lower  spring  was  57.8°,  and  that  of 
the  upper  54.3°. 

The  trees  in  the  neighborhood  were  birch,  willow,  pine,  and  an 
oak  resembling  quercus  alba?'^  In  the  shrubbery  along  the  river  are 
currant  bushes,  (ribes,y^  of  which  the  fruit  has  a  singularly  piney 
flavor;  and  on  the  mountain  side,  in  a  red  gravelly  soil,  is  a  re- 
markable coniferous  tree,  (perhaps  an  abies,)'^  having  the  leaves 
singularly  long,  broad,  and  scattered,  with  bushes  of  spiraea  ariae- 
folia.~^  By  our  observations,  this  place  is  6,350  feet  above  the  sea,  in 
latitude  38°  52'  10"  and  longitude  105°  22'  45". 


22.  Quercus  gambelii  Nutt. 

23.  Ribes  cereum  Dougl. 

24.  Probably  Pseudotsuga  menziesii  (Mirb.)  Franco.  Douglas  fir. 

25.  Holodiscus  discolor  (Pursh)  Maxim. 

448 


Resuming  our  journey  on  this  morning,  we  descended  the  river, 
in  order  to  reach  the  mouth  of  the  eastern  fork,  which  I  proposed  to 
ascend.  The  left  bank  of  the  river  here  is  very  much  broken.  There  is 
a  handsome  Httle  bottom  on  the  right,  and  both  banks  are  exceed- 
ingly picturesque— strata  of  red  rock,  in  nearly  perpendicular  walls, 
crossing  the  valley  from  north  to  south.  About  three  miles  below  the 
springs,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  is  a  nearly  perpendicular 
limestone  rock,  presenting  a  uniformly  unbroken  surface,  twenty  to 
forty  feet  high,  containing  very  great  numbers  of  a  large  univalve 
shell,  which  appears  to  belong  to  the  genus  inocemmus,  and  in  the 
appendix  is  designated  by  the  No.  42. 

In  contact  with  this,  to  the  westward,  was  another  stratum  of 
limestone,  containing  fossil  shells  of  a  different  character;  and  still 
higher  up  on  the  stream  were  parallel  strata,  consisting  of  a  compact 
somewhat  crystalline  limestone,  and  argillaceous  bituminous  lime- 
stone in  thin  layers.  During  the  morning,  we  travelled  up  the  eastern 
fork  of  the  Fontaine-qui-bouit  river,  our  road  being  roughened  by 
frequent  deep  gullies  timbered  with  pine,  and  halted  to  noon  on  a 
small  branch  of  this  stream,  timbered  principally  with  the  narrow- 
leaved  Cottonwood,  {poptdus  an gusti folia,)  called  by  the  Canadians 
hard  amere.  On  a  hill,  near  by,  were  two  remarkable  columns  of  a 
grayish-white  conglomerate  rock,  one  of  which  was  about  twenty 
feet  high,  and  two  feet  in  diameter.  They  are  surmounted  by  slabs  of 
a  dark  ferruginous  conglomerate,  forming  black  caps,  and  adding 
very  much  to  their  columnar  efTect  at  a  distance.  This  rock  is  very 
destructible  by  the  action  of  the  weather,  and  the  hill,  of  which  they 
formerly  constituted  a  part,  is  entirely  abraded. 

A  shaft  of  the  gun  carriage  was  broken  in  the  afternoon;  and  we 
made  an  early  halt,  the  stream  being  from  twelve  to  twenty  feet 
wide,  with  clear  water.  As  usual,  the  clouds  had  gathered  to  storm 
over  the  mountains,  and  we  had  a  showery  evening.  At  sunset  the 
thermometer  stood  at  62°  and  our  elevation  above  the  sea  was  6,530 
feet. 

]uly  20. — This  morning  (as  we  generally  found  the  mornings  un- 
der these  mountains)  was  very  clear  and  beautiful,  and  the  air  cool 
and  pleasant,  with  the  thermometer  at  44°.  We  continued  our  march 
up  the  stream,  along  a  green  sloping  bottom,  between  pine  hills  on 
the  one  hand,  and  the  main  Black  hills  on  the  other,  towards  the 
ridge  which  separates  the  waters  of  the  Platte  from  those  of  the 
Arkansas.  As  we  approached  the  dividing  ridge,  the  whole  valley 

449 


was  radiant  with  flowers;  blue,  yellow,  pink,  white,  scarlet,  and 
purple,  vied  with  each  other  in  splendor.  Esparcette  was  one  of  the 
highly  characteristic  plants,  and  a  bright-looking  flower  {gaillardia 
aristatd)  was  very  frequent;  but  the  most  abundant  plant  along  our 
road  today  was  geranium  maculatum,  which  is  the  characteristic 
plant  on  this  portion  of  the  dividing  grounds.  Crossing  to  the  waters 
of  the  Platte,  fields  of  blue  flax  added  to  the  magnificence  of  this 
mountain  garden;  this  was  occasionally  four  feet  in  height,  which 
was  a  luxuriance  of  growth  that  I  rarely  saw  this  almost  universal 
plant  attain  throughout  the  journey.  Continuing  down  a  branch  of 
the  Platte,  among  high  and  very  steep  timbered  hills,  covered  with 
fragments  of  rock,  towards  evening  we  issued  from  the  piney  region, 
and  made  a  late  encampment  near  Poundcake  rock,  on  that  fork  of 
the  river  which  we  had  ascended  on  the  8th  of  July.  Our  animals 
enjoyed  the  abundant  rushes  this  evening,  as  the  flies  were  so  bad 
among  the  pines  that  they  had  been  much  harassed.  A  deer  was 
killed  here  this  evening;  and  again  the  evening  was  overcast,  and  a 
collection  of  brilliant  red  clouds  in  the  west  was  followed  by  the 
customary  squall  of  rain. 

Achillea  millefolium  (milfoil)  was  among  the  characteristic  plants 
of  the  river  bottoms  to-day.  This  was  one  of  the  most  common  plants 
during  the  whole  of  our  journey,  occurring  in  almost  every  variety 
of  situation.  I  noticed  it  on  the  lowlands  of  the  rivers,  near  the  coast 
of  the  Pacific,  and  near  to  the  snow  among  the  mountains  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada. 

During  this  excursion,  we  had  surveyed  to  its  head  one  of  the  two 
principal  branches  of  the  upper  Arkansas,  75  miles  in  length,  and 
entirely  completed  our  survey  of  the  South  fork  of  the  Platte,  to  the 
extreme  sources  of  that  portion  of  the  river  which  belongs  to  the 
plains,  and  heads  in  the  broken  hills  of  the  Arkansas  dividing  ridge, 
at  the  foot  of  the  mountains.  That  portion  of  its  waters  which  were 
collected  among  these  mountains,  it  was  hoped  to  explore  on  our 
homeward  voyage. 

Reaching  St.  Vrain's  fort  on  the  morning  of  the  23d,  we  found 
Mr.  Fitzpatrick  and  his  party  in  good  order  and  excellent  health,  and 
my  true  and  reliable  friend.  Kit  Carson,  who  had  brought  with  him 
ten  good  mules,  with  the  necessary  pack  saddles.  Mr.  Fitzpatrick, 
who  had  often  endured  every  extremity  of  want  during  the  course 
of  his  mountain  life,  and  knew  well  the  value  of  provisions  in  this 
country,  had  watched  over  our  stock  with  jealous  vigilance,  and 

450 


there  was  an  abundance  of  flour,  rice,  sugar,  and  coffee,  in  the  camp; 
and  again  we  fared  luxuriously.  Meat  was,  however,  very  scarce;  and 
two  very  small  pigs,  which  we  obtained  at  the  fort,  did  not  go  far 
among  forty  men.  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  had  been  here  a  week,  during 
which  time  his  men  had  been  occupied  in  refitting  the  camp;  and 
the  repose  had  been  very  beneficial  to  his  animals,  which  were  now 
in  tolerably  good  condition. 

I  had  been  able  to  obtain  no  certain  information  in  regard  to  the 
character  of  the  passes  in  this  portion  of  the  Rocky  mountain  range, 
which  had  always  been  represented  as  impracticable  for  carriages, 
but  the  exploration  of  which  was  incidentally  contemplated  by  my 
instructions,  with  the  view  of  finding  some  convenient  point  of  pas- 
sage for  the  road  of  emigration,  which  would  enable  it  to  reach,  on 
a  more  direct  line,  the  usual  ford  of  the  Great  Colorado — a  place 
considered  as  determined  by  the  nature  of  the  country  beyond  that 
river.  It  is  singular  that,  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains, 
I  could  find  no  one  sufficiently  acquainted  with  them  to  guide  us  to 
the  plains  at  their  western  base;  but  the  race  of  trappers,  who  for- 
merly lived  in  their  recesses,  has  almost  entirely  disappeared — dwin- 
dled to  a  few  scattered  individuals — some  one  or  two  of  whom  are 
regularly  killed  in  the  course  of  each  year  by  the  Indians.  You  will 
remember  that,  in  the  previous  year,  I  brought  with  me  to  their  vil- 
lage near  this  post,  and  hospitably  treated  on  the  way,  several  Chey- 
enne Indians,  whom  I  had  met  on  the  Lower  Platte.  Shortly  after 
their  arrival  here,  these  were  out  with  a  party  of  Indians,  (them- 
selves the  principal  men,)  which  discovered  a  few  trappers  in  the 
neighboring  mountains,  whom  they  immediately  murdered,  although 
one  of  them  had  been  nearly  thirty  years  in  the  country,  and  was 
perfectly  well  known,  as  he  had  grown  gray  among  them. 

Through  this  portion  of  the  mountains,  also,  are  the  customary 
roads  of  the  war  parties  going  out  against  the  Utah  and  Shoshonee 
Indians;  and  occasionally  parties  from  the  Crow  nation  make  their 
way  down  to  the  southward  along  this  chain,  in  the  expectation  of 
surprising  some  straggling  lodges  of  their  enemies.  Shortly  before 
our  arrival,  one  of  their  parties  had  attacked  an  Arapaho  village  in 
the  vicinity,  which  they  had  found  unexpectedly  strong;  and  their 
assault  was  turned  into  a  rapid  flight  and  a  hot  pursuit,  in  which 
they  had  been  compelled  to  abandon  the  animals  they  had  rode,  and 
escape  on  their  war  horses. 

Into  this  uncertain  and  dangerous  region,  small  parties  of  three  or 

451 


four  trappers,  who  now  could  collect  together,  rarely  ventured ;  and 
consequently  it  was  seldom  visited  and  little  known.  Having  deter- 
mined to  try  the  passage  by  a  pass  through  a  spur  of  the  mountains 
made  by  the  Cdche-a-la-F oudre  river,  which  rises  in  the  high  bed  of 
mountains  around  Long's  peak,  I  thought  it  advisable  to  avoid 
any  encumbrance  which  would  occasion  detention,  and  accordingly 
again  separated  the  party  into  two  divisions — one  of  which,  under 
the  command  of  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  was  directed  to  cross  the  plains  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Laramie  river,  and,  continuing  thence  its  route 
along  the  usual  emigrant  road,  meet  me  at  Fort  Hall,  a  post  belong- 
ing to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  situated  on  Snake  river,  as  it 
is  commonly  called  in  the  Oregon  Territory,  although  better  known 
to  us  as  Lewis's  fork  of  the  Columbia.  The  latter  name  is  there  re- 
stricted to  one  of  the  upper  forks  of  the  river.^® 

Our  Delaware  Indians  having  determined  to  return  to  their  homes, 
it  became  necessary  to  provide  this  party  with  a  good  hunter ;  and  I 
accordingly  engaged  in  that  capacity  Alexander  Godey,  a  young 
man  about  25  years  of  age,  who  had  been  in  this  country  six  or  seven 
years,  all  of  which  time  had  been  actively  employed  in  hunting  for 
the  support  of  the  posts,  or  in  solitary  trading  expeditions  among  the 
Indians.^^  In  courage  and  professional  skill  he  was  a  formidable  rival 
to  Carson,  and  constantly  afterwards  was  among  the  best  and  most 
efficient  of  the  party,  and  in  difficult  situations  was  of  incalculable 


26.  Once  again  Fitzpatrick  and  his  party  (including  Talbot)  find  them- 
selves with  the  slow  equipment-laden  party,  while  JCF  with  a  lighter  crew 
(but  with  the  clumsy  howitzer)  goes  on  ahead.  Until  JCF  had  returned  from 
his  southern  excursion  to  the  Pikes  Peak  region  on  24  July,  they  had  not  seen 
him  since  16  June,  when  he  left  them  along  the  banks  of  the  Republican.  The 
journey  of  the  Fitzpatrick  contingent  to  Fort  St.  Vrain  had  been  uneventful 
except  for  a  shortage  of  water  which,  on  at  least  one  occasion,  caused  Fitz- 
patrick himself  to  make  a  foray  in  search  of  it  (and  Talbot  called  the  pond  he 
found  "execrable").  They  had  reached  the  South  Platte  on  8  July  and  St. 
Vrain's  on  the  14th,  where  they  received  instructions  sent  by  JCF  that  they 
were  to  wait  for  him  (talbot,  13-29).  The  Fitzpatrick  party  now  sets  off  in  a 
northeasterly  direction,  and  will  reach  the  Laramie  Fork  on  4  Aug. 

27.  Alexander  Godey,  French  Canadian  of  St.  Louis,  would  also  accompany 
JCF  on  his  third  and  fourth  expeditions,  and  may  even  have  been  on  the  fifth. 
After  1848,  he  spent  most  of  his  life  in  California,  pursuing  a  variety  of  occu- 
pations. JCF  claimed  that  the  first  hard-rock  gold  discovered  in  California  was 
found  on  the  Mariposa  claim  by  Godey.  Godey  (whose  name  on  the  earliest 
records  we  have  seen  is  Godare)  served  as  a  guide  to  Walker's  Pass  during  the 
Pacific  Railroad  Survey  of  1853.  When  he  died  at  the  Sisters'  Hospital  in  Los 
Angeles  in  1889  at  the  age  of  seventy-one,  he  had  been  living  in  Bakersfield 
with  his  twenty-one-year-old  wife. 

452 


value.  Hiram  Powers,  one  of  the  men  belonging  to  Mr.  Fitzpatrick's 
party,  was  discharged  at  this  place."*^ 

A  French  engage,  at  Lupton's  fort,  had  been  shot  in  the  back  on 
the  4th  of  July,  and  died  during  our  absence  to  the  Arkansas.^^  The 
wife  of  the  murdered  man,  an  Indian  woman  of  the  Snake  nation, 
desirous,  like  Naomi  of  old,  to  return  to  her  people,  requested  and 
obtained  permission  to  travel  with  my  party  to  the  neighborhood  of 
Bear  river,  where  she  expected  to  meet  with  some  of  their  villages. 
Happier  than  the  Jewish  widow,  she  carried  with  her  two  children, 
pretty  little  half-breeds,  who  added  much  to  the  liveliness  of  the 
camp.  Her  baggage  was  carried  on  five  or  six  pack  horses;  and  I 
gave  her  a  small  tent,  for  which  I  no  longer  had  any  use,  as  I  had 
procured  a  lodge  at  the  fort. 

For  my  own  party  I  selected  the  following  men,  a  number  of 
whom  old  associations  rendered  agreeable  to  me: 

Charles  Preuss,  Christopher  Carson,  Basil  Lajeunesse,  Francois 
Badeau,  J.  B.  Bernier,  Louis  Menard,  Raphael  Proue,  Jacob  Dodson, 
Louis  Zindel,  Henry  Lee,  J.  B.  Derosier,  Francois  Lajeunesse,  and 
Auguste  Vasquez. 

By  observation,  the  latitude  of  the  post  is  40°  16' 33",  and  its  longi- 
tude 105°  12'  23",  depending,  with  all  the  other  longitudes  along  this 
portion  of  the  line,  upon  a  subsequent  occultation  of  September  13, 
1843,  to  which  they  are  referred  by  the  chronometer.  Its  distance 
from  Kansas  landing,  by  the  road  we  travelled,  (which,  it  will  be  re- 
membered, was  very  winding  along  the  lower  Kansas  river,)  was 
750  miles.  The  rate  of  the  chronometer,  determined  by  observations 
at  this  place  for  the  interval  of  our  absence,  during  this  month,  was 
33.72",  which  you  will  hereafter  see  did  not  sensibly  change  during 
the  ensuing  month,  and  remained  nearly  constant  during  the  re- 


28.  Probably  an  error  in  name,  as  the  financial  records  indicate  that  James 
Power,  who  had  started  with  the  expedition,  was  discharged  at  St.  Vrain's  24 
July  1843.  There  is  no  mention  of  a  Hiram  Power  elsewhere.  For  a  letter  writ- 
ten on  the  26th  by  a  member  of  the  party,  see  Niles  Weel{ly  Register,  65:70- 
71. 

29.  The  man  who  died  was  named  Xervier.  His  assailant,  Thomas  Fallon, 
a  hand  belonging  to  Fort  St.  Vrain,  was  then  employed  by  the  Fitzpatrick  con- 
tingent, while  Xervier's  widow  proceeded  with  JCF  (talbot,  24,  28).  Fallon 
was  discharged  from  the  expedition  in  California  in  March  1844.  Later,  in 
1846,  he  aided  in  enlisting  men  to  cooperate  with  the  Bear  Flag  filibusters. 
He  served  in  the  California  Battalion  and  became  mayor  of  San  Jose  in  1851 
(pioneer  register). 

453 


mainder  of  our  journey  across  the  continent.  This  was  the  rate  used 
in  referring  to  St.  Vrain's  fort,  the  longitude  between  that  place  and 
the  mouth  of  the  Fontaitie-qui-bouit. 

Our  various  barometrical  observations,  which  are  better  worthy  of 
confidence  than  the  isolated  determination  of  1842,  give,  for  the  ele- 
vation of  the  fort  above  the  sea,  4,930  feet.  The  barometer  here  used 
was  also  a  better  one,  and  less  liable  to  derangement. 

At  the  end  of  two  days,  which  was  allowed  to  my  animals  for 
necessary  repose,  all  the  arrangements  had  been  completed,  and  on 
the  afternoon  of  the  26th  we  resumed  our  respective  routes.  Some 
little  trouble  was  experienced  in  crossing  the  Platte,  the  waters  of 
which  were  still  kept  up  by  rains  and  melting  snow;  and  having 
travelled  only  about  four  miles,  we  encamped  in  the  evening  on 
Thompson's  creek,  where  we  were  very  much  disturbed  by  mus- 
quitoes. 

The  following  days  we  continued  our  march  westward  over  com- 
parative plains,  and,  fording  the  Cache-a-la-Poudre  on  the  morning 
of  the  28th,  entered  the  Black  hills  [of  the  Cache  la  Poudre]  and 
nooned  on  this  stream  in  the  mountains  beyond  them.  Passing  over 
a  fine  large  bottom  in  the  afternoon,  we  reached  a  place  where  the 
river  was  shut  up  in  the  hills;  and,  ascending  a  ravine,  made  a  labori- 
ous and  very  difficult  passage  around  by  a  gap,  striking  the  river 
again  about  dusk.  A  little  labor,  however,  would  remove  this  diffi- 
culty, and  render  the  road  to  this  point  a  very  excellent  one.  The 
evening  closed  in  dark  with  rain,  and  the  mountains  looked  gloomy. 

July  29. — Leaving  our  encampment  about  7  in  the  morning,  we 
travelled  until  3  in  the  afternoon  along  the  river,  which,  for  this 
distance  of  about  six  miles,  runs  directly  through  a  spur  of  the  main 
mountains. 

We  were  compelled  by  the  nature  of  the  ground  to  cross  the  river 
eight  or  nine  times,  at  difficult,  deep,  and  rocky  fords,  the  stream 
running  with  great  force,  swollen  by  the  rains — a  true  mountain 
torrent,  only  forty  or  fifty  feet  wide.  It  was  a  mountain  valley  of  the 
narrowest  kind — almost  a  chasm;  and  the  scenery  very  wild  and 
beautiful.  Towering  mountains  rose  round  about;  their  sides  some- 
times dark  with  forests  of  pine,  and  sometimes  with  lofty  precipices, 
washed  by  the  river;  while  below,  as  if  they  indemnified  themselves 
in  luxuriance  for  the  scanty  space,  the  green  river  bottom  was  cov- 
ered with  a  wilderness  of  flowers,  their  tall  spikes  sometimes  rising 
above  our  heads  as  we  rode  among  them.  A  profusion  of  blossoms 

454 


on  a  white  flowering  vine,  {clematis  lasiafithi,)  which  was  abundant 
along  the  river,  contrasted  handsomely  with  the  green  foliage  of  the 
trees.  The  mountain  appeared  to  be  composed  of  a  greenish  gray  and 
red  granite,  which  in  some  places  appeared  to  be  in  a  state  of  de- 
composition, making  a  red  soil. 

The  stream  was  wooded  with  cottonwood,  box  elder,  and  cherry, 
with  currant  and  serviceberry  bushes.  After  a  somewhat  laborious 
day,  during  which  it  had  rained  incessantly,  we  encamped  near  the 
end  of  the  pass  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  creek,  in  sight  of  the  great 
Laramie  plains.^"  It  continued  to  rain  heavily,  and  at  evening  the 
mountains  were  hid  in  mists;  but  there  was  no  lack  of  wood,  and  the 
large  fires  we  made  to  dry  our  clothes  were  very  comfortable;  and  at 
night  the  hunters  came  in  with  a  fine  deer.  Rough  and  difficult  as  we 
found  the  pass  to-day,  an  excellent  road  may  be  made  with  a  little 
labor.  Elevation  of  the  camp  5,540  feet,  and  distance  from  St.  Vrain's 
fort  56  miles. 

]uly  30.— The  day  was  bright  again;  the  thermometer  at  sunrise 
52° ;  and  leaving  our  encampment  at  8  o'clock,  in  about  half  a  mile 
we  crossed  the  Cdche-a-la-Poudre  river  for  the  last  time ;  and,  enter- 
ing a  smoother  country,  we  travelled  along  a  kind  of  vallon,  bounded 
on  the  right  by  red  buttes  and  precipices,  while  to  the  left  a  high 
rolling  country  extended  to  a  range  of  the  Black  hills,  beyond  which 
rose  the  great  mountains  around  Long's  peak. 

By  the  great  quantity  of  snow  visible  among  them,  it  had  probably 
snowed  heavily  there  the  previous  day,  while  it  had  rained  on  us  in 
the  valley. 

We  halted  at  noon  on  a  small  branch;  and  in  the  afternoon  trav- 
elled over  a  high  country,  gradually  ascending  towards  a  range  of 
buttes,  or  high  hills  covered  with  pines,  which  forms  the  dividing 
ridge  between  the  waters  we  had  left  and  those  of  Laramie  river. 

Late  in  the  evening  we  encamped  at  a  spring  of  cold  water,  near 
the  summit  of  the  ridge,  having  increased  our  elevation  to  7,520 
feet.^^  During  the  day  we  had  travelled  24  miles.  By  some  indiflFerent 


30.  One  local  historian  contends  that  JCF  did  not  enter  Poudre  Canyon, 
nor  did  he  follow  the  main  Poudre  as  he  believed,  for  it  would  have  been 
impossible  for  him  to  sight  the  Laramie  Plains  from  any  spot  on  the  Poudre 
River.  She  believes  that  on  29  July,  JCF  was  on  the  North  Fork,  near  Liver- 
more,  and  not  on  the  main  Poudre  (barnes,  185-89).  The  description  of  the 
journey  of  29  July  seems  to  describe  the  canyon  of  the  North  Fork  of  the 
Cache  la  Poudre,  above  Fort  Collins. 

31.  Near  the  Colorado- Wyoming  border. 

455 


observations,  our  latitude  is  41°  02'  19".  A  species  of  hedeome^^  was 
characteristic  along  the  whole  day's  route. 

Emerging  from  the  mountains,  we  entered  a  region  of  bright,  fair 
weather.  In  my  experience  in  this  country,  I  was  forcibly  impressed 
with  the  different  character  of  the  climate  on  opposite  sides  of  the 
Rocky  mountain  range.  The  vast  prairie  plain  on  the  east  is  like  the 
ocean;  the  rain  and  clouds  from  the  constantly  evaporating  snow  of 
the  mountains  rushing  down  into  the  heated  air  of  the  plains,  on 
which  you  will  have  occasion  to  remark  the  frequent  storms  of  rain 
we  encountered  during  our  journey. 

July  31. — The  morning  was  clear;  temperature  48°.  A  fine  rolling 
road,  among  piney  and  grassy  hills,  brought  us  this  morning  into  a 
large  trail  where  an  Indian  village  had  recently  passed.  The  weather 
was  pleasant  and  cool;  we  were  disturbed  by  neither  musquitoes  nor 
flies;  and  the  country  was  certainly  extremely  beautiful.  The  slopes 
and  broad  ravines  were  absolutely  covered  with  fields  of  flowers  of 
the  most  exquisitely  beautiful  colors.  Among  those  which  had  not 
hitherto  made  their  appearance,  and  which  here  were  characteristic, 
was  a  new  delphinium,  of  a  green  and  lustrous  metallic  blue  color, 
mingled  with  compact  fields  of  several  bright-colored  varieties  of 
astragalusf^  which  were  crowded  together  in  splendid  profusion. 
This  trail  conducted  us  through  a  remarkable  defile,  to  a  little  tim- 
bered creek,  up  which  we  wound  our  way,  passing  by  a  singular  and 
massive  wall  of  dark  red  granite.  The  formation  of  the  country  is  a 
red  feldspathic  granite,  overlying  a  decomposing  mass  of  the  same 
rock,  forming  the  soil  of  all  this  region,  which  every  where  is  red 
and  gravelly,  and  appears  to  be  of  a  great  floral  fertility. 

As  we  emerged  on  a  small  tributary  of  the  Laramie  river,  coming 
in  sight  of  its  principal  stream,  the  flora  became  perfectly  magnifi- 
cent ;  and  we  congratulated  ourselves,  as  we  rode  along  our  pleasant 
road,  that  we  had  substituted  this  for  the  uninteresting  country  be- 
tween Laramie  hills  and  the  Sweet  Water  valley.  We  had  no  meat 
for  supper  last  night  or  breakfast  this  morning,  and  were  glad  to 
see  Carson  come  in  at  noon  with  a  good  antelope. 

A  meridian  observation  of  the  sun  placed  us  in  latitude  41°  04'  06". 
In  the  evening,  we  encamped  on  the  Laramie  river,  which  is  here 
very  thinly  timbered  with  scattered  groups  of  cottonwood  at  con- 


32.  Hedeoma  hispida  Pursh. 

33.  By    delphinium    with    astragalus,    JCF    probably    means    Delphinium 
geyeri  Greene  with  Oxytropis  lambertii  Pursh. 

456 


siderable  intervals.  From  our  camp,  we  are  able  to  distinguish  the 
gorges,  in  which  are  the  sources  of  Cache-a-la-Poudre  and  Laramie 
rivers;  and  the  Medicine  Bow  mountain,  toward  the  point  of  which 
we  are  directing  our  course  this  afternoon,  has  been  in  sight  the 
greater  part  of  the  day.  By  observation,  the  latitude  was  41°  15' 02", 
and  longitude  106°  16'  54".^"*  The  same  beautiful  flora  continued  till 
about  4  in  the  afternoon,  when  it  suddenly  disappeared,  with  the 
red  soil,  which  became  sandy  and  of  a  whitish-gray  color.  The  eve- 
ning was  tolerably  clear;  temperature  at  sunset  64°.  The  day's 
journey  was  30  miles. 

August  1. — The  morning  was  calm  and  clear,  with  sunrise  tem- 
perature at  42°.  We  travelled  to-day  over  a  plain,  or  open  rolling 
country,  at  the  foot  of  the  Medicine  Bow  mountain  f"  the  soil  in  the 
morning  being  sandy,  with  fragments  of  rock  abundant;  and  in  the 
afternoon,  when  we  approached  closer  to  the  mountain,  so  stony  that 
we  made  but  little  way.  The  beautiful  plants  of  yesterday  reappeared 
occasionally;  flax  in  bloom  occurred  during  the  morning,  and  espar- 
cette  in  luxuriant  abundance  was  a  characteristic  of  the  stony  ground 
in  the  afternoon.  The  camp  was  roused  into  a  little  excitement  by  a 
chase  after  a  buffalo  bull,  and  an  encounter  with  a  war  party  of 
Sioux  and  Cheyenne  Indians  about  30  strong.  Hares  and  antelope 
were  seen  during  the  day,  and  one  of  the  latter  was  killed.  The 
Laramie  peak  was  in  sight  this  afternoon.  The  evening  was  clear, 
with  scattered  clouds;  temperature  62°.  The  day's  journey  was  26 
miles. 

August  2. — Temperature  at  sunrise  52°,  and  scenery  and  weather 
made  our  road  to-day  delightful.  The  neighboring  mountain  is 
thickly  studded  with  pines,  intermingled  with  the  brighter  foliage  of 
aspens,  and  occasional  spots  like  lawns  between  the  patches  of  snow 
among  the  pines,  and  here  and  there  on  the  heights.  Our  route  below 
lay  over  a  comparative  plain,  covered  with  the  same  brilliant  vegeta- 
tion, and  the  day  was  clear  and  pleasantly  cool.  During  the  morning, 
we  crossed  many  streams,  clear  and  rocky,  and  broad  grassy  valleys, 
of  a  strong  black  soil,  washed  down  from  the  mountains,  and 
producing  excellent  pasturage.  These  were  timbered  with  the  red  wil- 


34.  He  is  a  few  miles  southwest  of  Laramie,  Wyo.,  just  east  of  Seven- 
mile  Lakes.  His  latitude  reading  is  close,  but  a  more  accurate  reading  of  the 
longitude  would  be  105°  40'. 

35.  JCF's  Medicine  Bow  "mountain"  means  the  entire  range  rather  than  the 
principal  crest,  Medicine  Bow  Peak. 

457 


low  and  long-leaved  cottonwood,  mingled  with  aspen,  as  we  ap- 
proached the  mountain  more  nearly  towards  noon.  Esparcette  was 
a  characteristic,  and  flax  occurred  frequently  in  bloom.  We  halted  at 
noon  on  the  most  western  fork  of  Laramie  river  [Four  Mile  Creek] 
— a  handsome  stream  about  sixty  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep,  with 
clear  water  and  a  swift  current,  over  a  bed  composed  entirely  of 
boulders  or  roll  stones.  There  was  a  large  open  bottom  here,  on 
which  were  many  lodge  poles  lying  about;  and  in  the  edge  of  the 
surrounding  timber  were  three  strong  forts,  that  appeared  to  have 
been  recently  occupied.  At  this  place  I  became  first  acquainted  with 
the  yampah,  {anethum  graveolens,Y^'  which  I  found  our  Snake 
women  engaged  in  digging  in  the  low  timbered  bottom  of  the  creek. 
Among  the  Indians  along  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  more  particu- 
larly among  the  Shoshonee  or  Snake  Indians,  in  whose  territory  it  is 
very  abundant,  this  is  considered  the  best  among  the  roots  used  for 
food.  To  us,  it  was  an  interesting  plant — a  little  link  between  the 
savage  and  civilized  life.  Here,  among  the  Indians,  its  root  is  a  com- 
mon article  of  food,  which  they  take  pleasure  in  offering  to  strang- 
ers; while  with  us,  in  a  considerable  portion  of  America  and  Europe, 
the  seeds  are  used  to  flavor  soup.  It  grows  more  abundantly,  and  in 
greater  luxuriance,  on  one  of  the  neighboring  tributaries  of  the 
Colorado  than  in  any  other  part  of  this  region;  and  on  that  stream, 
to  which  the  Snakes  are  accustomed  to  resort  every  year  to  procure  a 
supply  of  their  favorite  plant,  they  have  bestowed  the  name  of 
Yampah  river.  Among  the  trappers,  it  is  generally  known  as  Little 
Snake  river;  but  in  this  and  other  instances,  where  it  illustrated  the 
history  of  the  people  inhabiting  the  country,  I  have  preferred  to  re- 
tain on  the  map  the  aboriginal  name.  By  a  meridional  observation, 
the  latitude  is  41°  45' 59''. 

In  the  afternoon  we  took  our  way  directly  across  the  spurs  from 
the  point  of  the  mountain,  where  we  had  several  ridges  to  cross;  and, 
although  the  road  was  not  rendered  bad  by  the  nature  of  the  ground, 
it  was  made  extremely  rough  by  the  stiff  tough  bushes  of  artemisia 
tridentata*  in  this  country  commonly  called  sage. 

*  The  greater  portion  of  our  subsequent  journey  was  through  a  region 
where  this  shrub  constituted  the  tree  of  the  country;  and,  as  it  will  often  be 
mentioned  in  occasional  descriptions,  the  word  artemisia  only  will  be  used, 
without  the  specific  name. 

36.  Yampah,  Carum  gairdneri  H.  &  A.,  or  most  recently  Perideridia 
gairdneri  (H.  &  A.)  Mathias,  is  distinct  from  Anethum  graveolens  L.,  which 
may  have  been  introduced  early  in  the  West. 

458 


This  shrub  now  began  to  make  its  appearance  in  compact  fields; 
and  we  were  about  to  quit  for  a  long  time  this  country  of  excellent 
pasturage  and  brilliant  flowers.  Ten  or  twelve  buffalo  bulls  were  seen 
during  the  afternoon ;  and  we  were  surprised  by  the  appearance  of  a 
large  red  ox.  We  gathered  around  him  as  if  he  had  been  an  old  ac- 
quaintance, with  all  our  domestic  feelings  as  much  awakened  as  if 
we  had  come  in  sight  of  an  old  farm  house.  He  had  probably  made  his 
escape  from  some  party  of  emigrants  on  Green  river ;  and,  with  a  vivid 
remembrance  of  some  old  green  field,  he  was  pursuing  the  straight- 
est  course  for  the  frontier  that  the  country  admitted.  We  carried  him 
along  with  us  as  a  prize;  and,  when  it  was  found  in  the  morning 
that  he  had  wandered  off,  I  would  not  let  him  be  pursued,  for  I 
would  rather  have  gone  through  a  starving  time  of  three  entire  days, 
than  let  him  be  killed  after  he  had  successfully  run  the  gauntlet  so 
far  among  the  Indians.  I  have  been  told  by  Mr.  Bent's  people  of  an 
ox  born  and  raised  at  St.  Vrain's  fort,  which  made  his  escape  from 
them  at  Elm  grove,  near  the  frontier,  having  come  in  that  year  with 
the  wagons.  They  were  on  their  way  out,  and  saw  occasionally  places 
where  he  had  eaten  and  lain  down  to  rest;  but  did  not  see  him  for 
about  700  miles,  when  they  overtook  him  on  the  road,  travelling 
along  to  the  fort,  having  unaccountably  escaped  Indians  and  every 
other  mischance. 

We  encamped  at  evening  on  the  principal  fork  of  Medicine  Bow 
river,  near  to  an  isolated  mountain  called  the  Medicine  Butte  [Elk 
Mountain],  which  appeared  to  be  about  1,800  feet  above  the  plain, 
from  which  it  rises  abruptly,  and  was  still  white,  nearly  to  its  base, 
with  a  great  quantity  of  snow.^^  The  streams  were  timbered  with 
the  long-leaved  cotton  wood  and  red  willow;  and  during  the  after- 
noon a  species  of  onion  was  very  abundant.  I  obtained  here  an  im- 
mersion of  the  first  satellite  of  Jupiter,  which,  corresponding  very 
nearly  with  the  chronometer,  placed  us  in  longitude  106°  47'  25''. 
The  latitude,  by  observation,  was  41°  37'  16";  elevation  above  the 
sea,  7,800  feet;  and  distance  from  St.  Vrain's  fort,  147  miles. 

August  3.— There  was  a  white  frost  last  night;  the  morning  is 
clear  and  cool.  We  were  early  on  the  road,  having  breakfasted  before 
sunrise,  and  in  a  few  miles  travel  entered  the  pass  of  the  Medicine 
Butte,  through  which  led  a  broad  trail,  which  had  been  recently 


37.  The  party  has  now  reached  the  northern  end  of  the  Medicine  Bow  range 
and  is  ready  to  proceed  westward  through  a  pass  between  the  main  spurs  of 
that  range  and  an  isolated  butte  now  called  Elk  Mountain. 

459 


travelled  by  a  very  large  party.  Immediately  in  the  pass,  the  road 
was  broken  by  ravines,  and  we  were  obliged  to  clear  a  way  through 
groves  of  aspens,  which  generally  made  their  appearance  when 
we  reached  elevated  regions.  According  to  the  barometer,  this  was 
8,300  feet;  and  while  we  were  detained  in  opening  a  road,  I  ob- 
tained a  meridional  observation  of  the  sun,  which  gave  41°  35' 48'' 
for  the  latitude  of  the  pass.  The  Medicine  Butte  is  isolated  by  a 
small  tributary  of  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte,  but  the  mountains 
approach  each  other  very  nearly;  the  stream  running  at  their  feet. 
On  the  south  they  are  smooth,  with  occasional  streaks  of  pine;  but 
the  butte  itself  is  ragged,  with  escarpments  of  red  feldspathic  granite, 
and  dark  with  pines;  the  snow  reaching  from  the  summit  to  within 
a  few  hundred  feet  of  the  trail.  The  granite  here  was  more  compact 
and  durable  than  that  in  the  formation  which  we  had  passed 
through  a  few  days  before  to  the  eastward  of  Laramie.  Continuing 
our  way  over  a  plain  on  the  west  side  of  the  pass,  where  the  road  was 
terribly  rough  with  artemisia,  we  made  our  evening  encampment  on 
the  creek,  where  it  took  a  northern  direction,  unfavorable  to  the 
course  we  were  pursuing.^^  Bands  of  buffalo  were  discovered  as  we 
came  down  upon  the  plain;  and  Carson  brought  into  the  camp  a 
cow  which  had  the  fat  on  the  fleece  two  inches  thick.  Even  in  this 
country  of  rich  pasturage  and  abundant  game,  it  is  rare  that  the 
hunter  chances  upon  a  finer  animal.  Our  voyage  had  already  been 
long,  but  this  was  the  first  good  buffalo  meat  we  had  obtained.  We 
travelled  to-day  26  miles. 

August  4. — The  morning  was  clear  and  calm;  and,  leaving  the 
creek,  we  travelled  towards  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte,  over  a  plain 
which  was  rendered  rough  and  broken  by  ravines.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  some  thin  grasses,  the  sandy  soil  here  was  occupied  almost 
exclusively  by  artemisia,  with  its  usual  turpentine  odor.  We  had  ex- 
pected to  meet  with  some  difficulty  in  crossing  the  river,  but  hap- 
pened to  strike  it  where  there  was  a  very  excellent  ford,  and  halted 
to  noon  on  the  left  bank,  200  miles  from  St.  Vrain's  fort.  The  hunters 
brought  in  pack  animals  loaded  with  fine  meat.  According  to  our 
imperfect  knowledge  of  the  country,  there  should  have  been  a  small 
affluent  to  this  stream  a  few  miles  higher  up;  and  in  the  afternoon 
we  continued  our  way  among  the  river  hills,  in  the  expectation  of 


38.  Pass  Creek   turns   northward   near   Overland,   Wyo.,   about   five   miles 
east  of  the  Union  Pacific  tracks. 

460 


encamping  upon  it  in  the  evening.  The  ground  proved  to  be  so  ex- 
ceedingly difficult,  broken  up  into  hills,  terminating  in  escarpments 
and  broad  ravines  500  or  600  feet  deep,  with  sides  so  precipitous  that 
we  could  scarcely  find  a  place  to  descend,  that,  towards  sunset,  I 
turned  directly  in  towards  the  river,  and,  after  nightfall,  entered  a 
sort  of  ravine.  We  were  obliged  to  feel  our  way,  and  clear  a  road  in 
the  darkness;  the  surface  being  much  broken,  and  the  progress  of  the 
carriages  being  greatly  obstructed  by  the  artemisia,  which  had  a 
luxuriant  growth  of  four  to  six  feet  in  height.  We  had  scrambled 
along  this  gully  for  several  hours,  during  which  we  had  knocked  off 
the  carriage  lamps,  broken  a  thermometer  and  several  small  articles, 
when,  fearing  to  lose  something  of  more  importance,  I  halted  for  the 
night  at  10  o'clock.'^^  Our  animals  were  turned  down  towards  the 
river,  that  they  might  pick  up  what  little  grass  they  could  find ;  and 
after  a  little  search,  some  water  was  found  in  a  small  ravine,  and  im- 
proved by  digging.  We  lighted  up  the  ravine  with  fires  of  artemisia, 
and  about  midnight  sat  down  to  a  supper  which  we  were  hungry 
enough  to  find  delightful — although  the  buffalo  meat  was  crusted 
with  sand,  and  the  coffee  was  bitter  with  the  wormwood  taste  of  the 
artemisia  leaves. 

A  successful  day's  hunt  had  kept  our  hunters  occupied  until  late, 
and  they  slept  out,  but  rejoined  us  at  daybreak,  when,  finding  our- 
selves only  about  a  mile  from  the  river,  we  followed  the  ravine  down, 
and  camped  in  a  cottonwood  grove  on  a  beautiful  grassy  bottom, 
where  our  animals  indemnified  themselves  for  the  scanty  fare  of  the 
past  night.  It  was  quite  a  pretty  and  pleasant  place;  a  narrow  strip 
of  prairie  about  five  hundred  yards  long  terminated  at  the  ravine 
where  we  entered  by  high  precipitous  hills  closing  in  upon  the  river, 
and  at  the  upper  end  by  a  ridge  of  low  rolling  hills. 

In  precipitous  blufifs  were  displayed  a  succession  of  strata  con- 
taining fossil  vegetable  remains,  and  several  beds  of  coal.  In  some 
of  the  beds  the  coal  did  not  appear  to  be  perfectly  mineralized;  and 
in  some  of  the  seams,  it  was  compact  and  remarkably  lustrous.  In 
these  latter  places  there  were  also  thin  layers  of  a  very  fine  white 
salts,  in  powder.  As  we  had  a  large  supply  of  meat  in  the  camp, 
which  it  was  necessary  to  dry,  and  the  surrounding  country  appeared 
to  be  well  stocked  with  buffalo,  which  it  was  probable,  after  a  day  or 


39.  This  camp  in  the  valley  of  the  North  Platte  was  nearly  equidistant  be- 
tween Sinclair  and  Saratoga,  Wyo. 

461 


two,  we  would  not  see  again  until  our  return  to  the  Mississippi 
waters,  I  determined  to  make  here  a  provision  of  dried  meat,  which 
would  be  necessary  for  our  subsistence  in  the  region  we  were  about 
entering,  which  was  said  to  be  nearly  destitute  of  game.  Scaffolds 
were  accordingly  soon  erected,  fires  made,  and  the  meat  cut  into  thin 
slices  to  be  dried ;  and  all  were  busily  occupied,  when  the  camp  was 
thrown  into  a  sudden  tumult,  by  a  charge  from  about  70  mounted 
Indians,  over  the  low  hills  at  the  upper  end  of  the  little  bottom. 
Fortunately,  the  guard,  who  was  between  them  and  our  animals,  had 
caught  a  glimpse  of  an  Indian's  head,  as  he  raised  himself  in  his  stir- 
rups to  look  over  the  hill,  a  moment  before  he  made  the  charge; 
and  succeeded  in  turning  the  band  into  the  camp,  as  the  Indians 
charged  into  the  bottom  with  the  usual  yell.  Before  they  reached  us, 
the  grove  on  the  verge  of  the  little  bottom  was  occupied  by  our 
people,  and  the  Indians  brought  to  a  sudden  halt,  which  they  made 
in  time  to  save  themselves  from  a  howitzer  shot,  which  would  un- 
doubtedly have  been  very  effective  in  such  a  compact  body;  and 
further  proceedings  were  interrupted  by  their  signs  for  peace.  They 
proved  to  be  a  war  party  of  Arapaho  and  Cheyenne  Indians,  and 
informed  us  that  they  had  charged  upon  the  camp  under  the  belief 
that  we  were  hostile  Indians,  and  had  discovered  their  mistake  only 
at  the  moment  of  the  attack — an  excuse  which  policy  required  us 
to  receive  as  true,  though  under  the  full  conviction  that  the  display  of 
our  little  howitzer,  and  our  favorable  position  in  the  grove,  certainly 
saved  our  horses,  and  probably  ourselves,  from  their  marauding  in- 
tentions. They  had  been  on  a  war  party,  and  had  been  defeated,  and 
were  consequently  in  the  state  of  mind  which  aggravates  their  innate 
thirst  for  plunder  and  blood.  Their  excuse,  however,  was  taken  in 
good  part,  and  the  usual  evidences  of  friendship  interchanged.  The 
pipe  went  round,  provisions  were  spread,  and  the  tobacco  and  goods 
furnished  the  customary  presents,  which  they  look  for  even  from 
traders,  and  much  more  from  Government  authorities. 

They  were  returning  from  an  expedition  against  the  Shoshonee 
Indians,  one  of  whose  villages  they  had  surprised,  at  Bridger's  fort, 
on  Ham's  [Blacks]  fork  of  Green  river,'**'  (in  the  absence  of  the  men. 


40.  JCF  is  referring  to  a  horse  raid  of  the  Cheyennes  against  enemy  tribes 
of  which  we  learn  more  from  Theodore  Talbot's  journal.  On  30  July,  Talbot 
was  told  by  'The  Blind  Chief,"  a  Cheyenne,  "that  a  great  portion  of  their 
warriors  had  gone  to  fight  with  the  Snakes  and  Crows,  their  bitter  enemies. 
He  hoped  we  might  not  encounter  them  as  their  hearts  were  very  bad  towards 

462 


who  were  engaged  in  an  antelope  surround,)  and  succeeded  in 
carrying  off  their  horses  and  taking  several  scalps.  News  of  the 
attack  reached  the  Snakes  immediately,  who  pursued  and  overtook 
them,  and  recovered  their  horses;  and,  in  the  running  fight  which 
ensued,  the  Arapahos  had  lost  several  men  killed,  and  a  number 
wounded,  who  were  coming  on  more  slowly  with  a  party  in 
the  rear.  Nearly  all  the  horses  they  had  brought  off  were  the  prop- 
erty of  the  whites  at  the  fort.  After  remaining  until  nearly  sunset, 
they  took  their  departure;  and  the  excitement  which  their  arrival 
had  afforded  subsided  into  our  usual  quiet,  a  litde  enlivened  by  the 
vigilance  rendered  necessary  by  the  neighborhood  of  our  uncertain 
visitors.  At  noon  the  thermometer  was  at  75°,  at  sunset  70°,  and  the 
evening  clear.  Elevation  above  the  sea  6,820  feet;  latitude  41°  36'  00"; 
longitude  107°  22' 27". 

August  6. — At  sunrise  the  thermometer  was  46°,  the  morning  be- 
ing clear  and  calm.  We  travelled  to-day  over  an  extremely  rugged 
country,  barren  and  uninteresting — nothing  to  be  seen  but  artemisia 
bushes;  and,  in  the  evening,  found  a  grassy  spot  among  the  hills, 
kept  green  by  several  springs,  where  we  encamped  late.  Within  a 
few  hundred  yards  was  a  very  pretty  little  stream  of  clear  cool  water, 
whose  green  banks  looked  refreshing  among  the  dry  rocky  hills. 
The  hunters  brought  in  a  fat  mountain  sheep,  {ovis  montana). 

Our  road  the  next  day  was  through  a  continued  and  dense  field  of 
artemisia,  which  now  entirely  covered  the  country  in  such  a  luxuri- 
ant growth  that  it  was  difficult  and  laborious  for  a  man  on  foot  to 
force  his  way  through,  and  nearly  impracticable  for  our  light  car- 
riages. The  region  through  which  we  were  travelling  was  a  high 
plateau,  constituting  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  waters  of  the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans,  and  extending  to  a  considerable  distance 
southward,  from  the  neighborhood  of  the  Table  rock,  at  the  south- 
ern side  of  the  South  Pass.  Though  broken  up  into  rugged  and  rocky 
hills  of  a  dry  and  barren  nature,  it  has  nothing  of  a  mountainous 
character;  the  small  streams  which  occasionally  occur  belonging 

the  whites"  (talbot,  30).  Later,  on  30  Aug.,  Talbot  writes  that  Bridger's 
people  had  all  been  attacked  recently  by  the  large  party  of  Cheyennes  of 
whom  he,  Talbot,  had  been  warned.  They  had  driven  off  the  cavalcade  of 
horses  belonging  to  the  fort  as  well  as  those  belonging  to  a  village  of  Snakes 
in  the  valley  below.  Traveling  with  the  Stewart  party  ahead  of  JCF,  journalist 
Matthew  C.  Field  also  learned  of  the  horse  raid  and  said  it  prompted  stricter 
care  in  camp  (field,  88).  Clearly,  this  raid  was  influential  in  prompting  Jim 
Bridger  to  move  the  location  of  his  fort  (see  note  43  below). 

463 


neither  to  the  Platte  nor  the  Colorado,  but  losing  themselves  either 
in  the  sand  or  in  small  lakes.  From  an  eminence,  in  the  afternoon,  a 
mountainous  range  became  visible  in  the  north,  in  which  were  recog- 
nised, some  rocky  peaks  belonging  to  the  range  of  the  Sweet  Water 
valley;  and,  determining  to  abandon  any  further  attempt  to  struggle 
through  this  almost  impracticable  country,  we  turned  our  course 
directly  north,  towards  a  pass  in  the  valley  of  the  Sweet  Water  river. 
A  shaft  of  the  gun  carriage  was  broken  during  the  afternoon,  caus- 
ing a  considerable  delay;  and  it  was  late  in  an  unpleasant  evening 
before  we  succeeded  in  finding  a  very  poor  encampment,  where 
there  was  a  little  water  in  a  deep  trench  of  a  creek,  and  some  scanty 
grass  among  the  shrubs.  All  the  game  here  consisted  in  a  few  strag- 
gling buffalo  bulls,  and  during  the  day  there  had  been  but  very  little 
grass,  except  in  some  green  spots  where  it  had  collected  around 
springs  or  shallow  lakes.  Within  fifty  miles  of  the  Sweet  Water,  the 
country  changed  into  a  vast  saline  plain,  in  many  places  extremely 
level,  occasionally  resembling  the  flat  sandy  beds  of  shallow  lakes. 
Here  the  vegetation  consisted  of  a  shrubby  growth,  among  which 
were  several  varieties  of  chenopodiaceous  plants;  but  the  character- 
istic shrub  was  Fremontia  vermkularis ,  with  smaller  saline  shrubs 
growing  with  singular  luxuriance,  and  in  many  places  holding  ex- 
clusive possession  of  the  ground. 

On  the  evening  of  the  8th,  we  encamped  on  one  of  these  fresh- 
water lakes,  which  the  traveller  considers  himself  fortunate  to  find; 
and  the  next  day,  in  latitude  by  observation  42°  20'  06",  halted  to 
noon  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the  southern  side  of  the  range  which 
walls  in  the  Sweet  Water  valley,  on  the  head  of  a  small  tributary  to 
that  river. 

Continuing  in  the  afternoon  our  course  down  the  stream,  which 
here  cuts  directly  through  the  ridge,  forming  a  very  practicable  pass, 
we  entered  the  valley;  and,  after  a  march  of  about  nine  miles,  en- 
camped on  our  familiar  river  [the  Sweetwater],  endeared  to  us  by 
the  acquaintance  of  the  previous  expedition;  the  night  having  al- 
ready closed  in  with  a  cold  rain  storm.  Our  camp  was  about  twenty 
miles  above  the  Devil's  gate,^^  which  we  had  been  able  to  see  in  com- 


41.  The  site  of  the  camp  is  now  submerged  in  the  waters  of  the  Pathfinder 
Reservoir,  named  in  JCF's  honor.  His  route  for  the  preceding  four  days  is 
difficult  to  determine.  However,  his  course  for  the  next  several  days  is  over 
beaten  paths.  He  is  back  on  the  Oregon  Trail,  and  will  follow  it  until  he 
decides  to  make  a  side  trip  to  Great  Salt  Lake. 

464 


ing  down  the  plain ;  and,  in  the  course  of  the  night,  the  clouds  broke 
away  around  Jupiter  for  a  short  time,  during  which  we  obtained  an 
immersion  of  the  first  satellite,  the  result  of  which  agreed  very  nearly 
with  the  chronometer,  giving  for  the  mean  longitude  107°  50' 07"; 
elevation  above  the  sea,  6,040  feet;  and  distance  from  St.  Vrain's  fort, 
by  the  road  we  had  just  travelled,  315  miles. 

Here  passes  the  road  to  Oregon ;  and  the  broad  smooth  highway, 
where  the  numerous  heavy  wagons  of  the  emigrants  had  entirely 
beaten  and  crushed  the  artemisia,  was  a  happy  exchange  to  our  poor 
animals  for  the  sharp  rocks  and  tough  shrubs  among  which  they  had 
been  toiling  so  long;  and  we  moved  up  the  valley  rapidly  and  pleas- 
antly.^' With  very  little  deviation  from  our  route  of  the  preceding 
year,  we  continued  up  the  valley;  and  on  the  evening  of  the  12th  en- 
camped on  the  Sweet  Water,  at  a  point  where  the  road  turns  ofif  to 
cross  to  the  plains  of  Green  river.  The  increased  coolness  of  the 
weather  indicated  that  we  had  attained  a  great  elevation,  which  the 
barometer  here  placed  at  7,220  feet;  and  during  the  night  water 
froze  in  the  lodge. 

The  morning  of  the  13th  was  clear  and  cold,  there  being  a  white 
frost;  and  the  thermometer,  a  little  before  sunrise,  standing  at  26.5°. 
Leaving  this  encampment,  (our  last  on  the  waters  which  flow  to- 
wards the  rising  sun,)  we  took  our  way  along  the  upland,  towards 
the  dividing  ridge  which  separates  the  Atlantic  from  the  Pacific 
waters,  and  crossed  it  by  a  road  some  miles  further  south  than  the  one 
we  had  followed  on  our  return  in  1842.  We  crossed  very  near  the 
table  mountain,  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  South  Pass,  which  is 
near  twenty  miles  in  width,  and  already  traversed  by  several  differ- 
ent roads.  Selecting  as  well  as  I  could,  in  the  scarcely  distinguishable 
ascent,  what  might  be  considered  the  dividing  ridge  in  this  remark- 
able depression  in  the  mountain,  I  took  a  barometrical  observation, 
which  gave  7,490  feet  for  the  elevation  above  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
You  will  remember  that,  in  my  report  of  1842, 1  estimated  the  eleva- 
tion of  this  pass  at  about  7,000  feet ;  a  correct  observation  with  a  good 
barometer  enables  me  now  to  give  it  with  more  precision.  Its  im- 
portance, as  the  great  gate  through  which  commerce  and  travelling 
may  hereafter  pass  between  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  and  the 


42.  In  his  journal  entry  for  10  Aug.,  Preuss  says  that  the,  howitzer  was  used 
to  fire  at  buffalo:  "Shooting  buffalo  with  a  howitzer  is  a  cruel  but  amusing 
sport"  (preuss,  84). 

465 


north  Pacific,  justifies  a  precise  notice  of  its  locality  and  distance 
from  leading  points,  in  addition  to  this  statement  of  its  elevation.  As 
stated  in  the  report  of  1842,  its  latitude  at  the  point  where  we  crossed 
is  42°  24'  32'';  its  longitude  109°  26'  00";  its  distance  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Kansas,  by  the  common  travelling  route,  962  miles;  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Great  Platte,  along  the  valley  of  that  river,  according  to 
our  survey  of  1842, 882  miles ;  and  its  distance  from  St.  Louis  about  400 
miles  more  by  the  Kansas,  and  about  700  by  the  Great  Platte  route; 
these  additions  being  steamboat  conveyance  in  both  instances.  From 
this  pass  to  the  mouth  of  the  Oregon  is  about  1,400  miles  by  the 
common  travelling  route;  so  that,  under  a  general  point  of  view,  it 
may  be  assumed  to  be  about  half  way  between  the  Mississippi  and 
the  Pacific  ocean,  on  the  common  travelling  route.  Following  a  hol- 
low of  slight  and  easy  descent,  in  which  was  very  soon  formed  a 
little  tributary  to  the  Gulf  of  California,  (for  the  waters  which  flow 
west  from  the  South  Pass  go  to  this  gulf,)  we  made  our  usual  halt 
four  miles  from  the  pass,  in  latitude  by  observation  42°  19'  53". 
Entering  here  the  valley  of  Green  river — the  great  Colorado  of  the 
West — and  inclining  very  much  to  the  southward  along  the  streams 
which  form  the  Sandy  river,  the  road  led  for  several  days  over  dry 
and  level  uninteresting  plains;  to  which  a  low,  scrubby  growth  of 
artemisia  gave  a  uniform  dull  grayish  color;  and  on  the  evening  of  the 
15th  we  encamped  in  the  Mexican  territory  [i.e.,  south  of  42°],  on 
the  left  bank  of  Green  river,  69  miles  from  the  South  Pass,  in  longi- 
tude 110°  05'  05",  and  latitude  41°  53'  54",  distant  1,031  miles  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Kansas.  This  is  the  emigrant  road  to  Oregon, 
which  bears  much  to  the  southward,  to  avoid  the  mountains  about 
the  western  heads  of  Green  river — the  Rio  Verde  of  the  Spaniards. 
August  16. — Crossing  the  river,  here  about  400  feet  wide,  by  a 
very  good  ford,  we  continued  to  descend  for  seven  or  eight  miles  on 
a  pleasant  road  along  the  right  bank  of  the  stream,  of  which  the 
islands  and  shores  are  handsomely  timbered  with  cottonwood.  The 
refreshing  appearance  of  the  broad  river,  with  its  timbered  shores 
and  green  wooded  islands  in  contrast  to  its  dry  sandy  plains,  prob- 
ably obtained  for  it  the  name  of  Green  river,  which  was  bestowed 
on  it  by  the  Spaniards  who  first  came  into  this  country  to  trade  some 
25  years  ago.  It  was  then  familiarly  known  as  the  Seeds-ke-dee-agie, 
or  Prairie  Hen  {tetrao  urophasianus)  river;  a  name  which  it  received 
from  the  Crows,  to  whom  its  upper  waters  belong,  and  on  which 
this  bird  is  still  very  abundant.  By  the  Shoshonee  and  Utah  Indians, 

466 


to  whom  belongs,  for  a  considerable  distance  below,  the  country 
where  we  were  now  travelling,  it  was  called  the  Bitter  Root  river, 
from  the  great  abundance  in  its  valley  of  a  plant  which  affords  them 
one  of  their  favorite  roots.  Lower  down,  from  Brown's  hole  to  the 
southward,  the  river  runs  through  lofty  chasms,  walled  in  by  prec- 
ipices of  red  rock;  and  even  among  the  wilder  tribes  who  inhabit 
that  portion  of  its  course,  I  have  heard  it  called  by  Indian  refugees 
from  the  Californian  settlements  the  Rio  Colorado.  We  halted  to 
noon  at  the  upper  end  of  a  large  bottom,  near  some  old  houses, 
which  had  been  a  trading  post,"*'^  in  latitude  41°  46'  54".  At  this  place 
the  elevation  of  the  river  above  the  sea  is  6,230  feet.  That  of  Lewis's 
fork  of  the  Columbia  at  Fort  Hall  is,  according  to  our  subsequent 
observations,  4,500  feet.  The  descent  of  each  stream  is  rapid,  but 
that  of  the  Colorado  is  but  little  known,  and  that  little  derived  from 
vague  report.  Three  hundred  miles  of  its  lower  part,  as  it  approaches 
the  gulf  of  California,  is  reported  to  be  smooth  and  tranquil;  but  its 
upper  part  is  manifestly  broken  into  many  falls  and  rapids.  From 
many  descriptions  of  trappers,  it  is  probable  that  in  its  foaming 
course  among  its  lofty  precipices  it  presents  many  scenes  of  wild 
grandeur;  and  though  offering  many  temptations,  and  often  dis- 
cussed, no  trappers  have  been  found  bold  enough  to  undertake  a 
voyage  which  has  so  certain  a  prospect  of  a  fatal  termination.  The 
Indians  have  strange  stories  of  beautiful  valleys  abounding  with 
beaver,  shut  up  among  inaccessible  walls  of  rock  in  the  lower  course  of 
the  river;  and  to  which  the  neighboring  Indians,  in  their  occasional 


43.  JCF  here  makes  a  very  early  mention  of  Jim  Bridger's  first  trading  post, 
on  the  Green  River.  Had  the  contingent  he  was  leading  gone  up  Blacks  Fork 
far  enough,  they  would  have  encountered  Bridger's  second  fort,  already 
abandoned,  and  finally  the  future  site  of  his  third.  But  JCF  turns  northward 
along  a  variant  of  the  Oregon  Trail,  crossing  Muddy  Creek  (his  "salt  creek") 
near  Carter,  Wyo.,  and  proceeds  across  the  divide  to  the  waters  of  Bear  River. 
It  is  Talbot,  traveling  with  the  Fitzpatrick  contingent,  who  passes  the  aban- 
doned second  fort  and  says,  "Came  nearly  west  along  Black's  Fork  passing 
under  the  bluff  on  which  Vasquez  &  Bridger's  houses  are  built.  We  found 
them  deserted  and  dismantled"  (talbot,  41). 

With  Dale  L.  Morgan's  help  we  can  present  a  capsule  history  of  the  three 
establishments.  The  first  fort  was  founded  in  Aug.  1841  on  Green  River,  and 
lasted  until  1843.  Then,  threatened  by  raids  from  the  Sioux  and  Cheyennes, 
it  was  moved  to  the  site  on  Blacks  Fork  which  Talbot  saw.  But  the  horse 
raid  we  have  discussed  in  note  40  must  have  convinced  Bridger  that  he  had 
chosen  another  bad  site,  so  he  moved  farther  west  and  built  again  at  present 
Fort  Bridger,  Wyo.  Talbot  passed  the  second  abandoned  site  and  may  have 
camped  on  the  future  site  of  the  third  and  final  fort  the  night  of  30.  Aug. 

467 


wars  with  the  Spaniards,  and  among  themselves,  drive  their  herds 
of  cattle  and  flocks  of  sheep,  leaving  them  to  pasture  in  perfect 
security. 

The  road  here  leaves  the  river,  which  bends  considerably  to  the 
east;  and  in  the  afternoon  we  resumed  our  westerly  course,  passing 
over  a  somewhat  high  and  broken  country;  and  about  sunset,  after 
a  day's  travel  of  26  miles,  reached  Black's  fork  of  the  Green  river — 
a  shallow  stream,  with  a  somewhat  sluggish  current,  about  120  feet 
wide,  timbered  principally  with  willow,  and  here  and  there  an  oc- 
casional large  tree.  At  3  in  the  morning  I  obtained  an  observation  of 
an  emersion  of  the  first  satellite  of  Jupiter,  with  other  observations. 
The  heavy  wagons  have  so  completely  pulverized  the  soil,  that 
clouds  of  fine  light  dust  are  raised  by  the  slightest  wind,  making  the 
road  sometimes  very  disagreeable. 

August  17. — Leaving  our  encampment  at  6  in  the  morning,  we 
travelled  along  the  bottom,  which  is  about  two  miles  wide,  bordered 
by  low  hills,  in  which  the  strata  contained  handsome  and  very  dis- 
tinct vegetable  fossils.  In  a  gully  a  short  distance  farther  up  the  river, 
and  underlying  these,  was  exposed  a  stratum  of  an  impure  or  argil- 
laceous limestone.  Crossing  on  the  way  Black's  [Hams]  fork,  where 
it  is  one  foot  deep  and  forty  wide,  with  clear  water  and  a  pebbly 
bed,  in  nine  miles  we  reached  Ham's  [Blacks]  fork,  a  tributary  to 
the  former  stream,  having  now  about  sixty  feet  breadth,  and  a  few 
inches  depth  of  water.  It  is  wooded  with  thickets  of  red  willow,  and 
in  the  bottom  is  a  tolerably  strong  growth  of  grass.  The  road  here 
makes  a  traverse  of  twelve  miles  across  a  bend  of  the  river.  Passing 
in  the  way  some  remarkable  hills,  two  or  three  hundred  feet  high, 
with  frequent  and  nearly  vertical  escarpments  of  a  green  stone,  con- 
sisting of  an  argillaceous  carbonate  of  lime,  alternating  with  strata 
of  an  iron  brown  limestone,  and  worked  into  picturesque  forms  by 
wind  and  rain,  at  2  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  the  river  again, 
having  made  to-day  21  miles.  Since  crossing  the  great  dividing  ridge 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  plants  have  been  very  few  in  variety,  the 
country  being  covered  principally  with  artemisia. 

August  18. — We  passed  on  the  road,  this  morning,  the  grave  of 
one  of  the  emigrants,  being  the  second  we  had  seen  since  falling 
into  their  trail;  and  halted  to  noon  on  the  river,  a  short  distance 
above. 

The  Shoshonee  woman  took  leave  of  us  here,  expecting  to  find 
some  of  her  relations  at  Bridger's  fort,  which  is  only  a  mile  or  two 

468 


distant,  on  a  fork  of  this  stream.'*''  In  the  evening  we  encamped  on  a 
salt  creek,  about  fifteen  feet  wide,  having  to-day  travelled  32  miles. 

I  obtained  an  emersion  of  the  first  satellite  under  favorable  cir- 
cumstances, the  night  being  still  and  clear. 

One  of  our  mules  died  here,  and  in  this  portion  of  our  journey  we 
lost  six  or  seven  of  our  animals.  The  grass  which  the  country  had 
lately  afforded  was  very  poor  and  insufficient;  and  animals  which 
have  been  accustomed  to  grain  become  soon  weak  and  unable  to 
labor,  when  reduced  to  no  other  nourishment  than  grass.  The 
American  horses  (as  those  are  usually  called  which  are  brought  to 
this  country  from  the  States)  are  not  of  any  serviceable  value  until 
after  they  have  remained  a  winter  in  the  country,  and  become  ac- 
customed to  live  entirely  on  grass. 

August  19.— Desirous  to  avoid  every  delay  not  absolutely  necessary, 
I  sent  on  Carson  in  advance  to  Fort  Hall  this  morning,  to  make 
arrangements  for  a  small  supply  of  provisions.  A  few  miles  from 
our  encampment,  the  road  entered  a  high  ridge,  which  the  trappers 
called  the  "little  mountain,"  connecting  the  Utah  with  the  Wind 
river  chain;  and  in  one  of  the  hills  near  which  we  passed  I  re- 
marked strata  of  a  conglomerate  formation,  fragments  of  which 
were  scattered  over  the  surface.  We  crossed  a  ridge  of  this  con- 
glomerate, the  road  passing  near  a  grove  of  low  cedar,  and  de- 
scended upon  one  of  the  heads  of  Ham's  [Blacks]  fork,  called 
Muddy  [Little  Muddy  Creek],  where  we  made  our  midday  halt.  In 
the  river  hills  at  this  place,  I  discovered  strata  of  fossilliferous  rock, 
having  an  oolitic  structure,  which,  in  connexion  with  the  neighbor- 
ing strata,  authorize  us  to  believe  that  here,  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Rocky  mountains,  we  find  repeated  the  modern  formations  of  Great 
Britain  and  Europe,  which  have  hitherto  been  wanting  to  complete 
the  system  of  North  American  geology. 

The  specimens  from  this  locality  are  designated  in  the  appendix 
by  the  numbers  64,  68,  and  74  [p.  754]. 

In  the  afternoon  we  continued  our  road,  and,  searching  among 
the  hills  a  few  miles  up  the  stream,  and  on  the  same  bank,  I  dis- 
covered, among  alternating  beds  of  coal  and  clay,  a  stratum  of  white 
indurated  clay,  containing  very  clear  and  beautiful  impressions  of 
vegetable  remains.  This  was  the  most  interesting  fossil  locality  I  had 
met  in  the  country,  and  I  deeply  regretted  that  time  did  not  permit 


44.  He  is  referring  to  Bridger's  second  fort,  now  deserted. 

469 


me  to  remain  a  day  or  two  in  the  vicinity;  but  I  could  not  anticipate 
the  delays  to  which  I  might  be  exposed  in  the  course  of  our  journey 
— or,  rather,  I  knew  that  they  were  many  and  inevitable;  and  after 
remaining  here  only  about  an  hour,  I  hurried  off,  loaded  with  as 
many  specimens  as  I  could  conveniently  carry. 

Coal  made  its  appearance  occasionally  in  the  hills  during  the 
afternoon,  and  was  displayed  in  rabbit  burrows  in  a  kind  of  gap, 
through  which  we  passed  over  some  high  hills,  and  we  descended 
to  make  our  encampment  on  the  same  stream,  where  we  found  but 
very  poor  grass.  In  the  evening  a  fine  cow,  with  her  calf,  which 
had  strayed  off  from  some  emigrant  party,  were  found  several  miles 
from  the  road,  and  brought  into  camp;  and  as  she  gave  an  abun- 
dance of  milk,  we  enjoyed  to-night  an  excellent  cup  of  coffee.  We 
travelled  to-day  28  miles,  and,  as  has  been  usual  since  crossing  the 
Green  river,  the  road  had  been  very  dusty,  and  the  weather  smoky 
and  oppressively  hot.  Artemisia  was  characteristic  among  the  few 
plants. 

August  20.— We  continued  to  travel  up  the  creek  by  a  very  grad- 
ual ascent  and  a  very  excellent  grassy  road,  passing  on  the  way  sev- 
eral small  forks  of  the  stream.  The  hills  here  are  higher,  presenting 
escarpments  of  parti-colored  and  apparently  clay  rocks,  purple, 
dark  red,  and  yellow,  containing  strata  of  sandstone  and  limestone 
with  shells,  with  a  bed  of  cemented  pebbles,  the  whole  overlaid  by 
beds  of  limestone.  The  alternation  of  red  and  yellow  gives  a  bright 
appearance  to  the  hills,  one  of  which  was  called  by  our  people  the 
Rainbow  hill ;  and  the  character  of  the  country  became  more  agree- 
able, and  travelling  far  more  pleasant,  as  now  we  found  timber  and 
very  good  grass.  Gradually  ascending,  we  reached  the  lower  level  of 
a  bed  of  white  limestone,  lying  upon  a  white  clay,  on  the  upper  line 
of  which  the  whole  road  is  abundantly  supplied  with  beautiful 
cool  springs,  gushing  out  a  foot  in  breadth  and  several  inches  deep, 
directly  from  the  hill  side.  At  noon  we  halted  at  the  last  main  fork 
of  the  creek,  at  an  elevation  of  7,200  feet,  and  in  latitude,  by  observa- 
tion, 41°  39"  45";  and  in  the  afternoon  continued  on  the  same  ex- 
cellent road,  up  the  left  or  northern  fork  of  the  stream,  towards  its 
head,  in  a  pass  which  the  barometer  placed  at  8,230  feet  above  the 
sea.  This  is  a  connecting  ridge  between  the  Utah  or  Bear  river 
mountains  and  the  Wind  river  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  sep- 
arating the  waters  of  the  gulf  of  California  on  the  east,  and  those  on 
the  west  belonging  more  directly  to  the  Pacific,  from  a  vast  interior 

470 


basin  whose  rivers  are  collected  into  numerous  lakes  having  no 
outlet  to  the  ocean.  From  the  summit  of  the  pass,  the  highest  which 
the  road  crosses  between  the  Mississippi  and  the  Western  ocean,  our 
view  was  over  a  very  mountainous  region,  whose  rugged  appearance 
was  greatly  increased  by  the  smoky  weather,  through  which  the 
broken  ridges  were  dark  and  dimly  seen.  The  ascent  to  the  summit 
of  the  gap  was  occasionally  steeper  than  the  national  road  in  the 
Alleghanies;  and  the  descent,  by  way  of  a  spur  on  the  western  side, 
is  rather  precipitous,  but  the  pass  may  still  be  called  a  good  one. 
Some  thickets  of  willow  in  the  hollows  below  deceived  us  into  the 
expectation  of  finding  a  camp  at  our  usual  hour  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain;  but  we  found  them  without  water,  and  continued  down 
a  ravine  [Bridger  Creek],  and  encamped  about  dark  at  a  place 
where  the  springs  again  began  to  make  their  appearance,  but  where 
our  animals  fared  badly;  the  stock  of  emigrants  having  razed  the 
grass  as  completely  as  if  we  were  again  in  the  midst  of  the  buffalo. 

August  21. — An  hour's  travel  this  morning  brought  us  into  the 
fertile  and  picturesque  valley  of  Bear  river,  the  principal  tributary  to 
the  Great  Salt  lake.  The  stream  is  here  200  feet  wide,  fringed  with 
willows  and  occasional  groups  of  hawthorns.  We  were  now  entering 
a  region  which  for  us  possessed  a  strange  and  extraordinary  interest. 
We  were  upon  the  waters  of  the  famous  lake  which  forms  a  salient 
point  among  the  remarkable  geographical  features  of  the  country, 
and  around  which  the  vague  and  superstitious  accounts  of  the  trap- 
pers had  thrown  a  delightful  obscurity,  which  we  anticipated  plea- 
sure in  dispelling,  but  which,  in  the  mean  time,  left  a  crowded  field 
for  the  exercise  of  our  imagination. 

In  our  occasional  conversations  with  the  few  old  hunters  who  had 
visited  the  region,  it  had  been  a  subject  of  frequent  speculation ;  and 
the  wonders  which  they  related  were  not  the  less  agreeable  because 
they  were  highly  exaggerated  and  impossible. 

Hitherto  this  lake  had  been  seen  only  by  trappers  who  were 
wandering  through  the  country  in  search  of  new  beaver  streams, 
caring  very  little  for  geography;  its  islands  had  never  been  visited; 
and  none  were  to  be  found  who  had  entirely  made  the  circuit  of  its 
shores;  and  no  instrumental  observations  or  geographical  survey,  of 
any  description,  had  ever  been  made  any  where  in  the  neighboring 
region.  It  was  generally  supposed  that  it  had  no  visible  oudet;  but 
among  the  trappers,  including  those  in  my  own  camp,  were  many 
who  believed  that  somewhere  on  its  surface  was  a  terrible  whirlpool, 

471 


through  which  its  waters  found  their  way  to  the  ocean  by  some  sub- 
terranean communication.  All  these  things  had  made  a  frequent 
subject  of  discussion  in  our  desultory  conversations  around  the  fires 
at  night;  and  my  own  mind  had  become  tolerably  well  filled  with 
their  indefinite  pictures,  and  insensibly  colored  with  their  romantic 
descriptions,  which,  in  the  pleasure  of  excitement,  I  was  well  dis- 
posed to  believe,  and  half  expected  to  realize. 

Where  we  descended  into  this  beautiful  valley,  it  is  three  to  four 
miles  in  breadth,  perfectly  level,  and  bounded  by  mountainous 
ridges,  one  above  another,  rising  suddenly  from  the  plain. 

Annexed  is  a  map  [p.  470]  of  that  portion  of  the  river  along 
which  passes  the  emigrant  road.  In  its  character  of  level  bottoms,  en- 
closed between  abrupt  mountains,  it  presents  a  type  of  the  streams 
of  this  region. 

We  continued  our  road  down  the  river,  and  at  night  encamped  with 
a  family  of  emigrants — two  men,  women,  and  several  children — who 
appeared  to  be  bringing  up  the  rear  of  the  great  caravan.  I  was  struck 
with  the  fine  appearance  of  their  cattle,  some  six  or  eight  yoke  of 
oxen,  which  really  looked  as  well  as  if  they  had  been  all  the  summer 
at  work  on  some  good  farm.  It  was  strange  to  see  one  small  family 
travelling  along  through  such  a  country,  so  remote  from  civilization. 
Some  nine  years  since,  such  a  security  might  have  been  a  fatal  one; 
but  since  their  disastrous  defeats  in  the  country  a  little  north,  the 
Blackfeet  have  ceased  to  visit  these  waters.  Indians,  however,  are 
very  uncertain  in  their  localities;  and  the  friendly  feelings,  also,  of 
those  now  inhabiting  it  may  be  changed. 

According  to  barometrical  observation  at  noon,  the  elevation  of 
the  valley  was  6,400  feet  above  the  sea;  and  our  encampment  at 
night  in  latitude  42°  0^47",  and  longitude  111°  10' 53",  by  observa- 
tion— the  day's  journey  having  been  26  miles.^^  This  encampment 
was  therefore  within  the  territorial  limit  of  the  United  States;  our 
travelling,  from  the  time  we  entered  the  valley  of  the  Green  river, 
on  the  15th  of  August,  having  been  to  the  south  of  the  42d  degree 


45.  The  party  has  reached  the  Bear  River  and  gone  northward  to  a  camp 
near  present  Cokeville,  Wyo.  In  this  area  at  this  time  of  year,  JCF  would 
probably  have  seen  snow  on  certain  elevations  of  the  Wasatch  range,  north  by 
northwest  of  his  present  position.  As  he  proceeded  farther  north,  it  would  have 
become  apparent  that  the  mountains  were  timbered  to  the  summits,  and  not  so 
high  as  he  might  have  thought  earlier. 


472 


of  north  latitude,  and  consequently  on  Mexican  territory ;  and  this  is 
the  route  all  the  emigrants  now  travel  to  Oregon. 

The  temperature  at  sunset  was  65°;  and  at  evening  there  was  a 
distant  thunder  storm,  with  a  light  breeze  from  the  north. 

Antelope  and  elk  were  seen  during  the  day  on  the  opposite 
prairie;  and  there  were  ducks  and  geese  in  the  river. 

The  next  morning,  in  about  three  miles  from  our  encampment, 
we  reached  Smith's  fork,^*'  a  stream  of  clear  water,  about  50  feet  in 
breadth.  It  is  timbered  with  cottonwood,  willow,  and  aspen,  and 
makes  a  beautiful  debouchement  through  a  pass  about  600  yards 
wide,  between  remarkable  mountain  hills,  rising  abruptly  on  either 
side,  and  forming  gigantic  columns  to  the  gate  by  which  it  enters 
Bear  river  valley.  The  bottoms,  which  below  Smith's  fork  had  been 
two  miles  wide,  narrowed,  as  we  advanced,  to  a  gap  500  yards  wide; 
and  during  the  greater  part  of  the  day  we  had  a  winding  route,  the 
river  making  very  sharp  and  sudden  bends,  the  mountains  steep  and 
rocky,  and  the  valley  occasionally  so  narrow  as  only  to  leave  space 
for  a  passage  through. 

We  made  our  halt  at  noon  in  a  fertile  bottom,  where  the  common 
blue  flax  was  growing  abundantly,  a  few  miles  below  the  mouth  of 
Thomas's  fork,  one  of  the  larger  tributaries  of  the  river. 

Crossing,  in  the  afternoon,  the  point  of  a  narrow  spur,  we  de- 
scended into  a  beautiful  bottom,  formed  by  a  lateral  valley,  which 
presented  a  picture  of  home  beauty  that  went  directly  to  our  hearts. 
The  edge  of  the  wood,  for  several  miles  along  the  river,  was  dotted 
with  the  white  covers  of  emigrant  wagons,  collected  in  groups  at 
dififerent  camps,  where  the  smokes  were  rising  lazily  from  the  fires, 
around  which  the  women  were  occupied  in  preparing  the  evening 
meal,  and  the  children  playing  in  the  grass;  and  herds  of  cattle, 


46.  Smith's  Fork  flows  into  the  Bear  River  from  the  east  near  Cokeville. 
It  is  logical  to  assume  that  this  stream,  as  well  as  Smith's  Fork  Creek  flowing 
into  Blacks  Fork,  are  named  for  famed  traveler  Jedediah  Smith.  But  a  trader 
named  Thomas  L.  "Pegleg"  Smith,  who  in  1848  established  a  post  not  far 
north  of  this  place,  had  been  in  the  area  for  twenty  years.  Born  in  Garrard 
County,  Ky.,  in  1801,  he  had  trapped  the  Southwest  and  Colorado  River  areas 
in  the  1820s,  later  drifting  north  to  trap  with  Ceran  St.  Vrain,  Milton  Sub- 
lette, and  others  (Humphreys,  4:311-30).  An  overland  diary  of  1846  by  John 
R.  McBride  attributes  the  name  of  the  stream  to  Thomas  L.  Smith,  but  the 
editor.  Dale  L.  Morgan,  believes  that  Jedediah — who  penetrated  the  area  in 
1824-25— is  the  likelier  choice  (morgan  [3],  1:97,  n.  44). 


473 


grazing  about  in  the  bottom,  had  an  air  of  quiet  security,  and  civi- 
Hzed  comfort,  that  made  a  rare  sight  for  the  traveller  in  such  a 
remote  wilderness. 

In  common  with  all  the  emigration,  they  had  been  reposing  for 
several  days  in  this  delightful  valley,  in  order  to  recruit  their  animals 
on  its  luxuriant  pasturage  after  their  long  journey,  and  prepare  them 
for  the  hard  travel  along  the  comparatively  sterile  banks  of  the 
Upper  Columbia.  At  the  lower  end  of  this  extensive  bottom,  the 
river  passes  through  an  open  canon,  where  there  were  high  vertical 
rocks  to  the  water's  edge,  and  the  road  here  turns  up  a  broad  valley 
to  the  right.  It  was  already  near  sunset;  but,  hoping  to  reach  the 
river  again  before  night,  we  continued  our  march  along  the  valley, 
finding  the  road  tolerably  good,  until  we  arrived  at  a  point  where  it 
crosses  the  ridge  by  an  ascent  of  a  mile  in  length,  which  was  so  very 
steep  and  difficult  for  the  gun  and  carriage,  that  we  did  not  reach 
the  summit  until  dark. 

It  was  absolutely  necessary  to  descend  into  the  valley  for  water 
and  grass,  and  we  were  obliged  to  grope  our  way  in  the  darkness 
down  a  very  steep,  bad  mountain,  reaching  the  river  at  about  10 
o'clock.  It  was  late  before  our  animals  were  gathered  into  camp, 
several  of  those  which  were  very  weak  being  necessarily  left  to  pass 
the  night  on  the  ridge;  and  we  sat  down  again  to  a  midnight  sup- 
per. The  road,  in  the  morning,  presented  an  animated  appearance. 
We  found  that  we  had  encamped  near  a  large  party  of  emigrants; 
and  a  few  miles  below  another  party  was  already  in  motion.  Here 
the  valley  had  resumed  its  usual  breadth,  and  the  river  swept  ofiF 
along  the  mountains  on  the  western  side,  the  road  continuing  di- 
rectly on. 

In  about  an  hour's  travel  we  met  several  Shoshonee  Indians,  who 
informed  us  that  they  belonged  to  a  large  village  which  had  just 
come  into  the  valley  from  the  mountain  to  the  westward,  where  they 
had  been  hunting  antelope  and  gathering  service  berries.  Glad  at  the 
opportunity  of  seeing  one  of  their  villages,  and  in  the  hope  of  pur- 
chasing from  them  a  few  horses,  I  turned  immediately  oflF  into  the 
plain  towards  their  encampment,  which  was  situated  on  a  small 
stream  near  the  river. 

We  had  approached  within  something  more  than  a  mile  of  the 
village,  when  suddenly  a  single  horseman  emerged  from  it  at  full 
speed,  followed  by  another,  and  another,  in  rapid  succession;  and 
then  party  after  party  poured  into  the  plain,  until,  when  the  fore- 

474 


most  rider  reached  us,  all  the  whole  intervening  plain  was  occupied 
by  a  mass  of  horsemen,  which  came  charging  down  upon  us  with 
guns  and  naked  swords,  lances,  and  bows  and  arrows — Indians  en- 
tirely naked,  and  warriors  fully  dressed  for  war,  with  the  long  red 
streamers  of  their  war  bonnets  reaching  nearly  to  the  ground — all 
mingled  together  in  the  bravery  of  savage  warfare.  They  had  been 
thrown  into  a  sudden  tumult  by  the  appearance  of  our  flag,  which, 
among  these  people,  is  regarded  as  an  emblem  of  hostility;  it  being 
usually  bourne  by  the  Sioux,  and  the  neighboring  mountain  Indians, 
when  they  come  here  to  war;  and  we  had  accordingly  been  mis- 
taken for  a  body  of  their  enemies.  A  few  words  from  the  chief 
quieted  the  excitement;  and  the  whole  band,  increasing  every  mo- 
ment in  number,  escorted  us  to  their  encampment,  where  the  chief 
pointed  out  a  place  for  us  to  encamp,  near  his  own  lodge,  and 
made  known  our  purpose  in  visiting  the  village.  In  a  very  short 
time  we  purchased  eight  horses,  for  which  we  gave  in  exchange 
blankets,  red  and  blue  cloth,  beads,  knives,  and  tobacco,  and  the 
usual  other  articles  of  Indian  traffic.  We  obtained  from  them  also  a 
considerable  quantity  of  berries  of  different  kinds,  among  which 
service  berries  were  the  most  abundant;  and  several  kinds  of  roots 
and  seeds,  which  we  could  eat  with  pleasure,  as  any  kind  of  vege- 
table food  was  gratifying  to  us.  I  ate  here,  for  the  first  time,  the 
\ooyah,  or  tobacco  root,  {Valeriana  edulis,y^  the  principal  edible 
root  among  the  Indians  who  inhabit  the  upper  waters  of  the  streams 
on  the  western  side  of  the  mountains.  It  has  a  very  strong  and  re- 
markably peculiar  taste  and  odor,  which  I  can  compare  to  no  other 
vegetable  that  I  am  acquainted  with,  and  which  to  some  persons  is 
extremely  offensive.  It  was  characterized  by  Mr.  Preuss  as  the  most 
horrid  food  he  had  ever  put  in  his  mouth;  and  when,  in  the  eve- 
ning, one  of  the  chiefs  sent  his  wife  to  me  with  a  portion  which  she 
had  prepared  as  a  delicacy  to  regale  us,  the  odor  immediately  drove 
him  out  of  the  lodge;  and  frequently  afterwards  he  used  to  beg 
that  when  those  who  liked  it  had  taken  what  they  desired,  it  might 
be  sent  away.  To  others,  however,  the  taste  is  rather  an  agreeable 
one,  and  I  was  afterwards  always  glad  when  it  formed  an  addition 
to  our  scanty  meals.  It  is  full  of  nutriment;  and  in  its  unprepared 
state  is  said  by  the  Indians  to  have  very  strong  poisonous  qualities,  of 


47.  Valeriana  ciliata  T.  &  G.,  one  of  the  notable  number  of  aboriginal  foods 
which  are  poisonous  before  cooking. 

475 


which  it  is  deprived  by  a  pecuHar  process,  being  baked  in  the  ground 
for  about  two  days. 

The  morning  of  the  24th  was  disagreeably  cool,  with  an  easterly 
wind  and  very  smoky  weather.  We  made  a  late  start  from  the  vil- 
lage, and,  regaining  the  road,  (on  which,  during  all  the  day,  were 
scattered  the  emigrant  wagons,)  we  continued  on  down  the  valley 
of  the  river,  bordered  by  high  and  mountainous  hills,  on  which  fires 
are  seen  at  the  summit.  The  soil  appears  generally  good,  although, 
with  the  grasses,  many  of  the  plants  are  dried  up,  probably  on  ac- 
count of  the  great  heat  and  want  of  rain.  The  common  blue  flax  of 
cultivation,  now  almost  entirely  in  seed — only  a  scattered  flower 
here  and  there  remaining — is  the  most  characteristic  plant  of  the 
Bear  river  valley.  When  we  encamped  at  night  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  river,  it  was  growing  as  in  a  sown  field.  We  had  travelled 
during  the  day  22  miles,  encamping  in  latitude  (by  observation)  42° 
36'  56'',  chronometric  longitude  111°  42'  05". 

In  our  neighborhood,  the  mountains  appeared  extremely  rugged, 
giving  still  greater  value  to  this  beautiful  natural  pass. 

August  25.— This  was  a  cloudless  but  smoky  autumn  morning, 
with  a  cold  wind  from  the  SE.,  and  a  temperature  of  45°  at  sunrise. 
In  a  few  miles  I  noticed,  where  a  little  stream  crossed  the  road, 
fragments  of  scoriated  basalt  scattered  about — the  first  volcanic  rock 
we  had  seen,  and  which  now  became  a  characteristic  rock  along  our 
future  road.  In  about  six  miles  travel  from  our  encampment,  we 
reached  one  of  the  points  in  our  journey  to  which  we  had  always 
looked  forward  with  great  interest — the  famous  Beer  springs^^  The 
sketch  annexed  [p.  479]  will  aid  in  fixing  your  ideas  of  the  place, 
which  is  a  basin  of  mineral  waters  enclosed  by  the  mountains,  which 
sweep  around  a  circular  bend  of  Bear  river,  here  at  its  most  northern 


48.  Both  Beer  [Soda]  Springs  and  Steamboat  Spring  are  drowned  in  the 
waters  of  the  reservoir  at  Soda  Springs,  Idaho.  Beer  Springs  reminded  travel- 
ers of  lager  beer  because  of  the  acid  taste  and  the  effervescent  gases  of  the 
water.  Steamboat  Spring  made  a  sound  like  a  high-pressure  steam  engine. 

JCF  has  already  recorded  his  overtaking  emigrant  parties  below  Beer  Springs. 
A  young  diarist  in  one  of  the  parties  writes  on  23  Aug.:  "Lieutenant  Free- 
mont,  of  the  U.S.  Topographical  Engineers,  with  his  party,  overtook  us  this 
morning"  (nesmith,  349).  Nesmith's  party  evidendy  caught  up,  as  it  passed 
the  springs  on  the  24th.  And  later,  after  JCF  had  sent  for  supplies  to  support 
his  trip  down  to  Great  Salt  Lake,  the  diarist  writes  on  26  Aug.:  "Kit  Carson, 
of  Freemont's  company,  camped  with  us,  on  his  return  from  Fort  Hall,  hav- 
ing been  on  express." 

476 


point,  and  which  from  a  northern,  in  the  course  of  a  few  miles  ac- 
quires a  southern  direction  towards  the  Great  Salt  lake.  A  pretty 
Httle  stream  of  clear  water  enters  the  upper  part  of  the  basin  from 
an  open  valley  in  the  mountains,  and,  passing  through  the  bottom, 
discharges  into  Bear  river.  Crossing  this  stream,  we  descended  a  mile 
below,  and  made  our  encampment  in  a  grove  of  cedar  immediately 
at  the  Beer  springs,  which,  on  account  of  the  effervescing  gas  and 
acid  taste,  have  received  their  name  from  the  voyageurs  and  trappers 
of  the  country,  who,  in  the  midst  of  their  rude  and  hard  lives,  are 
fond  of  finding  some  fancied  resemblance  to  the  luxuries  they  rarely 
have  the  fortune  to  enjoy. 

Although  somewhat  disappointed  in  the  expectations  which  vari- 
ous descriptions  had  led  me  to  form  of  unusual  beauty  of  situation 
and  scenery,  I  found  it  altogether  a  place  of  very  great  interest;  and  a 
traveller  for  the  first  time  in  a  volcanic  region  remains  in  a  constant 
excitement,  and  at  every  step  is  arrested  by  something  remarkable 
and  new.  There  is  a  confusion  of  interesting  objects  gathered  to- 
gether in  a  small  space.  Around  the  place  of  encampment  the  Beer 
springs  were  numerous;  but,  as  far  as  we  could  ascertain,  were  en- 
tirely confined  to  that  locality  in  the  bottom.  In  the  bed  of  the  river, 
in  front,  for  a  space  of  several  hundred  yards,  they  were  very  abun- 
dant; the  effervescing  gas  rising  up  and  agitating  the  water  in  count- 
less bubbling  columns.  In  the  vicinity  round  about  were  numerous 
springs  of  an  entirely  different  and  equally  marked  mineral  charac- 
ter. In  a  rather  picturesque  spot,  about  1,300  yards  below  our 
encampment,  and  immediately  on  the  river  bank,  is  the  most  remark- 
able spring  of  the  place.  In  an  opening  on  the  rock,  a  white  column 
of  scattered  water  is  thrown  up,  in  form  like  a  jet-d'eau,  to  a  variable 
height  of  about  three  feet,  and,  though  it  is  maintained  in  a  constant 
supply,  its  greatest  height  is  attained  only  at  regular  intervals,  ac- 
cording to  the  action  of ~  the  force  below.  It  is  accompanied  by  a 
subterranean  noise,  which,  together  with  the  motion  of  the  water, 
makes  very  much  the  impression  of  a  steamboat  in  motion;  and, 
without  knowing  that  it  had  been  already  previously  so  called,  we 
gave  to  it  the  name  of  the  Steamboat  spritig.  The  rock  through 
which  it  is  forced  is  slightly  raised  in  a  convex  manner,  and  gath- 
ered at  the  opening  into  an  urn-mouthed  form,  and  is  evidently 
formed  by  continued  deposition  from  the  water,  and  colored  bright 
red  by  oxide  of  iron.  An  analysis  of  this  deposited  rock,  which  I  sub- 
join, will  give  you  some  idea  of  the  properties  of  the  water,  which, 

477 


with  the  exception  of  the  Beer  springs,  is  the  mineral  water  of  the 
place.*  It  is  a  hot  spring,  and  the  water  has  a  pungent  and  disagree- 
able metallic  taste,  leaving  a  burning  effect  on  the  tongue.  Within 
perhaps  two  yards  of  the  jet-d'eau  is  a  small  hole  of  about  an  inch 
in  diameter,  through  which,  at  regular  intervals,  escapes  a  blast  of 
hot  air  with  a  light  wreath  of  smoke,  accompanied  by  a  regular 
noise.  This  hole  had  been  noticed  by  Doctor  Wislizenus,  a  gentle- 
man who  several  years  since  passed  by  this  place,  and  who  re- 
marked, with  very  nice  observation,  that  smelling  the  gas  which 
issued  from  the  orifice  produced  a  sensation  of  giddiness  and  nausea. 
Mr.  Preuss  and  myself  repeated  the  observation,  and  were  so  well 
satisfied  with  its  correctness,  that  we  did  not  find  it  pleasant  to  con- 
tinue the  experiment,  as  the  sensation  of  giddiness  which  it  pro- 
duced was  certainly  strong  and  decided.  A  huge  emigrant  wagon, 
with  a  large  and  diversified  family,  had  overtaken  us  and  halted  to 
noon  at  our  encampment;  and,  while  we  were  sitting  at  the  spring, 
a  band  of  boys  and  girls,  with  two  or  three  young  men,  came  up,  one 
of  whom  I  asked  to  stoop  down  and  smell  the  gas,  desirous  to  sat- 
isfy myself  further  of  its  effects.  But  his  natural  caution  had  been 
awakened  by  the  singular  and  suspicious  features  of  the  place,  and 
he  declined  my  proposal  decidedly,  and  with  a  few  indistinct  re- 
marks about  the  devil,  whom  he  seemed  to  consider  the  genius  loci. 
The  ceaseless  motion  and  the  play  of  the  fountain,  the  red  rock, 
and  the  green  trees  near,  make  this  a  picturesque  spot. 

A  short  distance  above  the  spring,  and  near  the  foot  of  the  same 
spur,  is  a  very  remarkable  yellow-colored  rock,  soft  and  friable,  con- 
sisting principally  of  carbonate  of  lime  and  oxide  of  iron,  of  regular 
structure,  which  is  probably  a  fossil  coral.  The  rocky  bank  along  the 
shore  between  the  Steamboat  spring  and  our  encampment,  along 
which  is  dispersed  the  water  from  the  hills,  is  composed  entirely  of 
strata  of  a  calcareous  tufa,  with  the  remains  of  moss  and  reed-like 
grasses,  which  is  probably  the  formation  of  springs.  The  Beer  or 


*ANALYSIS. 

Carbonate  of  lime 92.55 

Carbonate  of  magnesia   ......  0.42 

Oxide  of  iron 1.05 

Silica 

Alumina             Y 5.98 

Water  and  loss  ,  


100.00 
478 


Soda  springs,  which  have  given  name  to  this  locaHty,  are  agreeable, 
but  less  highly  flavored  than  the  Boiling  springs  at  the  foot  of  Pike's 
peak,  which  are  of  the  same  character.  They  are  very  numerous,  and 
half  hidden  by  tufts  of  grass,  which  we  amused  ourselves  in  remov- 
ing and  searching  about  for  more  highly  impregnated  springs.  They 
are  some  of  them  deep,  and  of  various  sizes — sometimes  several  yards 
in  diameter,  and  kept  in  constant  motion  by  columns  of  escaping 
gas.  By  analysis,  one  quart  of  water  contains  as  follows: 


Sulphate  o£  magnesia 
Sulphate  of  lime 
Carbonate  of  lime 
Carbonate  of  magnesia 
Chloride  of  calcium 
Chloride  of  magnesium 
Chloride  of  sodium 
Vegetable  extractive  matter,  &c 


Grains. 
12.10 
2.12 
3.86 
3.22 
1.33 
1.12 
2.24 
0.85 


26.84 


The  carbonic  acid,  originally  contained  in  the  water,  had  mainly 
escaped  before  it  was  subjected  to  analysis;  and  it  was  not,  therefore, 
taken  into  consideration. 

In  the  afternoon  I  wandered  about  among  the  cedars,  which  oc- 
cupy the  greater  part  of  the  bottom  towards  the  mountains.  The 
soil  here  has  a  dry  and  calcined  appearance;  in  some  places,  the  open 
grounds  are  covered  with  saline  efflorescences,  and  there  are  a  num- 
ber of  regularly  shaped  and  very  remarkable  hills,  which  are  formed 
of  a  succession  of  convex  strata  that  have  been  deposited  by  the 
waters  of  extinct  springs,  the  orifices  of  which  are  found  on  their 
summits,  some  of  them  having  the  form  of  funnel-shaped  cones. 
Others  of  these  remarkably  shaped  hills  are  of  a  red-colored  earth, 
entirely  bare,  and  composed  principally  of  carbonate  of  lime,  with 
oxide  of  iron,  formed  in  the  same  manner.  Walking  near  one  of 
them,  on  the  summit  of  which  the  springs  were  dry,  my  attention 
was  attracted  by  an  underground  noise,  around  which  I  circled 
repeatedly,  until  I  found  the  spot  from  beneath  which  it  came;  and, 
removing  the  red  earth,  discovered  a  hidden  spring,  which  was  boil- 
ing up  from  below,  with  the  same  disagreeable  metallic  taste  as  the 


480 


Steamboat  spring.  Continuing  up  the  bottom,  and  crossing  the  little 
stream  which  has  been  already  mentioned,  I  visited  several  remark- 
able red  and  white  hills,  which  had  attracted  my  attention  from  the 
road  in  the  morning.  These  are  immediately  upon  the  stream,  and, 
like  those  already  mentioned,  are  formed  by  the  deposition  of  suc- 
cessive strata  from  the  springs.  On  their  summits,  the  orifices 
through  which  the  waters  had  been  discharged  were  so  large  that 
they  resembled  miniature  craters,  being  some  of  them  several  feet  in 
diameter,  circular,  and  regularly  formed  as  if  by  art.  At  a  former 
time,  when  these  dried-up  fountains  were  all  in  motion,  they  must 
have  made  a  beautiful  display  on  a  grand  scale;  and  nearly  all  this 
basin  appears  to  me  to  have  been  formed  under  their  action,  and 
should  be  called  the  place  of  fouiitaitis.  At  the  foot  of  one  of  these 
hills,  or  rather  on  its  side  near  the  base,  are  several  of  these  small 
limestone  columns,  about  one  foot  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  taper- 
ing upwards  to  a  height  of  three  or  four  feet;  and  on  the  summit 
the  water  is  boiling  up  and  bubbling  over,  constantly  adding  to  the 
height  of  the  little  obelisks.  In  some,  the  water  only  boils  up,  no 
longer  overflowing,  and  has  here  the  same  taste  as  the  Steamboat 
spring.  The  observer  will  remark  a  gradual  subsidence  in  the  water, 
which  formerly  supplied  the  fountains,  as  on  all  the  summits  of  the 
hills  the  springs  are  now  dry,  and  are  found  only  low  down  upon 
their  sides,  or  on  the  surrounding  plain. 

A  little  higher  up  the  creek,  its  banks  are  formed  by  strata  of  a 
very  heavy  and  hard  scoriaceous  basalt,  having  a  bright  metallic 
lustre  when  broken.  The  mountains  overlooking  the  plain  are  of  an 
entirely  different  geological  character.  Continuing  on,  I  walked  to 
the  summit  of  one  of  them,  where  the  principal  rock  was  a  granular 
quartz.  Descending  the  mountains,  and  returning  towards  the  camp 
along  the  base  of  the  ridge  which  skirts  the  plain,  I  found  at  the  foot 
of  a  mountain  spur,  and  issuing  from  a  compact  rock  of  a  dark-blue 
color,  a  great  number  of  springs  having  the  same  pungent  and  dis- 
agreeably metallic  taste  already  mentioned,  the  water  of  which  was 
collected  into  a  very  remarkable  basin,  whose  singularity,  perhaps, 
made  it  appear  to  me  very  beautiful.  It  is  large — perhaps  fifty  yards 
in  circumference;  and  in  it  the  water  is  contained  at  an  elevation  of 
several  feet  above  the  surrounding  ground  by  a  wall  of  calcareous 
tufa,  composed  principally  of  the  remains  of  mosses,  three  or  four, 
and  sometimes  ten  feet  high.  The  water  within  is  very  clear  and 


481 


pure,  and  three  or  four  feet  deep,  where  it  could  be  conveniently 
measured  near  the  wall;  and,  at  a  considerably  lower  level,  is  an- 
other pond  or  basin  of  which  the  gas  was  escaping  in  bubbling  col- 
umns at  many  places.  This  water  was  collected  into  a  small  stream, 
which,  in  a  few  hundred  yards,  sank  under  ground,  reappearing 
among  the  rocks  between  the  two  great  springs  near  the  river, 
which  it  entered  by  a  little  fall. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  I  sat  out  on  my  return  to  the  camp,  and, 
crossing  in  the  way  a  large  field  of  a  salt  that  was  several  inches 
deep,  found  on  my  arrival  that  our  emigrant  friends,  who  had  been 
encamped  in  company  with  us,  had  resumed  their  journey,  and  the 
road  had  again  assumed  its  solitary  character.  The  temperature  of 
the  largest  of  the  Beer  springs  at  our  encampment  was  65°  at  sun- 
set, that  of  the  air  being  62.5°.  Our  barometric  observation  gave 
5,840  feet  for  the  elevation  above  the  gulf,  being  about  500  feet  lower 
than  the  Boiling  springs,  which  are  of  a  similar  nature,  at  the  foot  of 
Pike's  peak.  The  astronomical  observations  gave  for  our  latitude  42 
39' 57",  and  111°  46' 00"  for  the  longitude.  The  night  was  very  still 
and  cloudless,  and  I  sat  up  for  an  observation  of  the  first  satellite  of 
Jupiter,  the  emersion  of  which  took  place  about  midnight;  but  fell 
asleep  at  the  telescope,  awaking  just  a  few  minutes  after  the  appear- 
ance of  the  star. 

The  morning  of  the  26th  was  calm,  and  the  sky  without  clouds, 
but  smoky;  and  the  temperature  at  sunrise  28.5°.  At  the  same  time, 
the  temperature  of  the  large  Beer  spring,  where  we  were  encamped, 
was  56°;  that  of  the  Steamboat  spring  87°;  and  that  of  the  steam 
hole,  near  it,  81.5°.  In  the  course  of  the  morning,  the  last  wagons  of 
the  emigration  passed  by,  and  we  were  again  left  in  our  place,  in  the 
rear. 

Remaining  in  camp  until  nearly  11  o'clock,  we  travelled  a  short 
distance  down  the  river,  and  halted  to  noon  on  the  bank,  at  a  point 
where  the  road  quits  the  valley  of  Bear  river,  and,  crossing  a  ridge 
which  divides  the  Great  Basin  from  the  Pacific  waters,  reaches  Fort 
Hall,  by  way  of  the  Portneuf  river,  in  a  distance  of  probably  fifty 
miles,  or  two  and  a  half  days'  journey  for  wagons.  An  examination 
of  the  great  lake  which  is  the  outlet  of  this  river,  and  the  principal 
feature  of  geographical  interest  in  the  basin,  was  one  of  the  main 
objects  contemplated  in  the  general  plan  of  our  survey,  and  I  ac- 
cordingly determined  at  this  place  to  leave  the  road,  and,  after  hav- 
ing completed  a  reconnoissance  of  the  lake,  regain  it  subsequently  at 

482 


Fort  Hall/^  But  our  little  stock  of  provisions  had  again  become  ex- 
tremely low;  we  had  only  dried  meat  sufficient  for  one  meal,  and 
our  supply  of  flour  and  other  comforts  was  entirely  exhausted.  I 
therefore  immediately  despatched  one  of  the  party,  Henry  Lee,  with 
a  note  to  Carson,  at  Fort  Hall,  directing  him  to  load  a  pack  horse 
with  whatever  could  be  obtained  there  in  the  way  of  provisions,  and 
endeavor  to  overtake  me  on  the  river.  In  the  mean  time,  we  had 
picked  up  along  the  road  two  tolerably  well-grown  calves,  which 
would  have  become  food  for  wolves,  and  which  had  probably  been 
left  by  some  of  the  earlier  emigrants,  none  of  those  we  had  met  hav- 
ing made  any  claim  to  them;  and  on  these  I  mainly  relied  for  sup- 
port during  our  circuit  to  the  lake. 

In  sweeping  around  the  point  of  the  mountain  which  runs  down 
into  the  bend,  the  river  here  passes  between  perpendicular  walls  of 
basalt  [Black  Canyon],  which  always  fix  the  attention,  from  the 
regular  form  in  which  it  occurs,  and  its  perfect  distinctness  from  the 
surrounding  rocks  among  which  it  has  been  placed.  The  mountain, 
which  is  rugged  and  steep,  and,  by  our  measurement,  1,400  feet 
above  the  river  directly  opposite  the  place  of  our  halt,  is  called  the 
Sheep  rory^^"— probably  because  a  flock  of  the  common  mountain 
sheep  {ovis  montana)  had  been  seen  on  the  craggy  point. 

As  we  were  about  resuming  our  march  in  the  afternoon,  I  was 
attracted  by  the  singular  appearance  of  an  isolated  hill  [Alexander 
Crater]  with  a  concave  summit,  in  the  plain,  about  two  miles  from 
the  river,  and  turned  off  towards  it,  while  the  camp  proceeded  on  its 
way  to  the  southward  in  search  of  the  lake.  I  found  the  thin  and  stony 
soil  of  the  plain  entirely  underlaid  by  the  basalt  which  forms  the 
river  walls;  and  when  I  reached  the  neighborhood  of  the  hill,  the 
surface  of  the  plain  was  rent  into  frequent  fissures  and  chasms  of 

49.  From  26  Aug.  to  18  Sept.  JCF  carried  out  a  side  trip  to  Great  Salt  Lake. 
Starting  down  the  Bear  from  Soda  Springs,  he  sheared  away  from  that  river  at 
Standing  Rock  Pass,  went  up  Weston  Creek  and  down  Deep  Creek  to  the 
valley  of  the  Malad.  He  followed  the  Malad  and  the  Bear  nearly  to  Great 
Salt  Lake,  and  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Bear  he  crossed  to  the  left  bank 
and  went  south  around  Bear  River  Bay  to  Weber  River.  From  a  base  camp 
west  of  present  Ogden,  Utah,  he  visited  Fremont  Island  in  the  lake,  and  then, 
growing  short  of  provisions,  returned  northward  to  Fort  Hall.  His  return 
route  lay  up  the  Malad  and  Little  Malad  rivers,  crossing  over  to  the  Bannock 
and  down  that  river  to  the  Snake.  The  route  of  the  excursion  to  Great  Salt 
Lake  will  not  be  detailed  here,  but  may  be  found  discussed  in  korns  and 
in  sTANSBURY — who  describes  the  terrain  in  detail. 

50.  Now  Soda  Point. 

483 


the  same  scoriated  volcanic  rock,  from  forty  to  sixty  feet  deep,  but 
which  there  was  not  sufficient  light  to  penetrate  entirely,  and  which 
I  had  not  time  to  descend.  Arrived  at  the  summit  of  the  hill,  I  found 
that  it  terminated  in  a  very  perfect  crater,  of  an  oval,  or  nearly 
circular  form,  360  paces  in  circumference,  and  60  feet  at  the  greatest 
depth.  The  walls,  which  were  perfectly  vertical,  and  disposed  like 
masonry  in  a  very  regular  manner,  were  composed  of  a  brown- 
colored  scoriaceous  lava,  evidently  the  production  of  a  modern  vol- 
cano, and  having  all  the  appearance  of  the  lighter  scoriaceous  lavas 
of  Mount  iEtna,  Vesuvius,  and  other  volcanoes.  The  faces  of  the 
walls  were  reddened  and  glazed  by  the  fire,  in  which  they  had  been 
melted,  and  which  had  left  them  contorted  and  twisted  by  its  violent 
action. 

Our  route  during  the  afternoon  was  a  little  rough,  being  (in  the 
direction  we  had  taken)  over  a  volcanic  plain,  where  our  progress 
was  sometimes  obstructed  by  fissures,  and  black  beds  composed  of 
fragments  of  the  rock.  On  both  sides,  the  mountains  appeared  very 
broken,  but  tolerably  well  timbered. 

August  26. — Crossing  a  point  of  ridge  which  makes  in  to  the 
river,  we  fell  upon  it  again  before  sunset,  and  encamped  on  the  right 
bank,  opposite  to  the  encampment  of  three  lodges  of  Snake  Indians. 
They  visited  us  during  the  evening,  and  we  obtained  from  them  a 
small  quantity  of  roots  of  different  kinds,  in  exchange  for  goods. 
Among  them  was  a  sweet  root  of  very  pleasant  flavor,  having  some- 
what the  taste  of  preserved  quince.  My  endeavors  to  become  ac- 
quainted with  the  plants  which  furnish  to  the  Indians  a  portion  of 
their  support  were  only  gradually  successful,  and  after  long  and 
persevering  attention ;  and  even  after  obtaining,  I  did  not  succeed  in 
preserving  them  until  they  could  be  satisfactorily  determined.  In 
this  portion  of  the  journey,  I  found  this  particular  root  cut  up  into 
such  small  pieces,  that  it  was  only  to  be  identified  by  its  taste,  when 
the  bulb  was  met  with  in  perfect  form  among  the  Indians  lower 
down  on  the  Columbia,  among  whom  it  is  the  highly  celebrated 
kamas.  It  was  long  afterwards,  on  our  return  through  Upper  Cali- 
fornia, that  I  found  the  plant  itself  in  bloom,  which  I  supposed  to 
furnish  the  kamas  root,  {camassia  escule?ita.)  The  root  diet  had  a 
rather  mournful  effect  at  the  commencement,  and  one  of  the  calves 
was  killed  this  evening  for  food.  The  animals  fared  well  on  rushes. 

August  27. — The  morning  was  cloudy,  with  appearance  of  rain, 
and  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  at  29°.  Making  an  unusually  early 

484 


start,  we  crossed  the  river  at  a  good  ford;  and,  following  for  about 
three  hours  a  trail  which  led  along  the  bottom,  we  entered  a  laby- 
rinth of  hills  below  the  main  ridge,  and  halted  to  noon  in  the  ra- 
vine of  a  pretty  little  stream,  timbered  with  cottonwood  of  a  large 
size,  ash-leaved  maple,  with  cherry  and  other  shrubby  trees.  The 
hazy  weather,  which  had  prevented  any  very  extended  views  since 
entering  the  Green  river  valley,  began  now  to  disappear.  There  was 
a  slight  rain  in  the  earlier  part  of  the  day,  and  at  noon,  when  the 
thermometer  had  risen  to  79.5°,  we  had  a  bright  sun,  with  blue 
sky  and  scattered  cumuli.  According  to  the  barometer,  our  halt  here 
among  the  hills  was  at  an  elevation  of  5,320  feet.  Crossing  a  dividing 
ridge  in  the  afternoon,  we  followed  down  another  little  Bear  river 
tributary,  to  the  point  where  it  emerged  on  an  open  green  flat 
among  the  hills,  timbered  with  groves,  and  bordered  with  cane 
thickets,  but  without  water.  A  pretty  little  rivulet,  coming  out  of 
the  hill  side,  and  overhung  by  tall  flowering  plants  of  a  species  I 
had  not  hitherto  seen,  furnished  us  with  a  good  camping  place. 
The  evening  was  cloudy,  the  temperature  at  sunset  69°,  and  the  ele- 
vation 5,140  feet.  Among  the  plants  occurring  along  the  line  of  road 
during  the  day,  ep'mettes  des  prairies  (grindelia  squarrosa)  was  in 
considerable  abundance,  and  is  among  the  very  few  plants  remaining 
in  bloom— the  whole  country  having  now  an  autumnal  appearance, 
in  the  crisped  and  yellow  plants,  and  dried-up  grasses.  Many  cranes 
were  seen  during  the  day,  with  a  few  antelope,  very  shy  and  wild. 
August  28.— During  the  night  we  had  a  thunder  storm,  with  mod- 
erate rain,  which  has  made  the  air  this  morning  very  clear,  the 
thermometer  being  at  55°.  Leaving  our  encampment  at  the  Cane 
spring,  and  quitting  the  trail  on  which  we  had  been  travelling,  and 
which  would  probably  have  afforded  us  a  good  road  to  the  lake,  we 
crossed  some  very  deep  ravines,  and,  in  about  an  hour's  travelling, 
again  reached  the  river.  We  were  now  in  a  valley  of  five  or  six  miles 
wide,  between  mountain  ranges,  which,  about  thirty  miles  below, 
appeared  to  close  up  and  terminate  the  valley,  leaving  for  the  river 
only  a  very  narrow  pass,  or  caiion,  behind  which  we  imagined  that 
we  should  find  the  broad  waters  of  the  lake.  We  made  the  usual 
halt  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  clear  stream,  having  a  slightly  mineral 
taste,  (perhaps  of  salt,)  4,760  feet  above  the  gulf.  In  the  afternoon 
we  climbed  a  very  steep  sandy  hill;  and,  after  a  slow  and  winding 
day's  march  of  27  miles,  encamped  at  a  slough  on  the  river  [on  the 
west  side,  near  Preston,  Idaho].  There  were  great  quantities  of  geese 

485 


and  ducks,  of  which  only  a  few  were  shot;  the  Indians  having  prob- 
ably made  them  very  wild.  The  men  employed  themselves  in 
fishing,  but  caught  nothing.  A  skunk,  {mephitis  Americana,)  which 
was  killed  in  the  afternoon,  made  a  supper  for  one  of  the  messes. 
The  river  is  bordered  occasionally  with  fields  of  cane,  which  we  re- 
garded as  an  indication  of  our  approach  to  a  lake  country.  We  had 
frequent  showers  of  rain  during  the  night,  with  thunder. 

August  29. — The  thermometer  at  sunrise  was  54°,  with  air  from 
the  NW.,  and  dark  rainy  clouds  moving  on  the  horizon ;  rain  squalls 
and  bright  sunshine  by  intervals.  I  rode  ahead  with  Basil  to  explore  the 
country,  and,  continuing  about  three  miles  along  the  river,  turned 
directly  off  on  a  trail  running  towards  three  marked  gaps  in  the 
bordering  range,  where  the  mountains  appeared  cut  through  to  their 
bases,  towards  which  the  river  plain  rose  gradually.  Putting  our  horses 
into  a  gallop  on  some  fresh  tracks  which  showed  very  plainly  in  the 
wet  path,  we  came  suddenly  upon  a  small  party  of  Shoshonee  In- 
dians, who  had  fallen  into  the  trail  from  the  north.  We  could  only 
communicate  by  signs;  but  they  made  us  understand  that  the  road 
through  the  chain  was  a  very  excellent  one,  leading  into  a  broad 
valley  which  ran  to  the  southward.  We  halted  to  noon  at  what  may 
be  called  the  gate  of  the  pass;  on  either  side  of  which  were  huge 
mountains  of  rock,  between  which  stole  a  little  pure  water  stream, 
with  a  margin  just  sufficiently  large  for  our  passage.  From  the  river, 
the  plain  had  gradually  risen  to  an  altitude  of  5,500  feet,  and,  by 
meridian  observation,  the  latitude  of  the  entrance  was  42°. 

In  the  interval  of  our  usual  halt,  several  of  us  wandered  along  up 
the  stream  to  examine  the  pass  more  at  leisure.  Within  the  gate,  the 
rocks  receded  a  little  back,  leaving  a  very  narrow,  but  most  beautiful 
valley,  through  which  the  little  stream  wound  its  way,  hidden  by 
different  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs — aspen,  maple,  willow,  cherry, 
and  elder;  a  fine  verdure  of  smooth  short  grass  spread  over  the  re- 
maining space  to  the  bare  sides  of  the  rocky  walls.  These  were  of  a 
blue  limestone,  which  constitutes  the  mountain  here;  and  opening 
directly  on  the  grassy  bottom  were  several  curious  caves,  which 
appeared  to  be  inhabited  by  root  diggers.  On  one  side  was  gathered 
a  heap  of  leaves  for  a  bed,  and  they  were,  dry,  open,  and  pleasant. 
On  the  roofs  of  the  caves  I  remarked  bituminous  exudations  from 
the  rock. 

The  trail  was  an  excellent  one  for  pack  horses;  but,  as  it  some- 
times crossed  a  shelving  point,  to  avoid  the  shrubbery  we  were 

486 


obliged  in  several  places  to  open  a  road  for  the  carriage  through 
the  wood.  A  squaw  on  horseback,  accompanied  by  five  or  six  dogs, 
entered  the  pass  in  the  afternoon;  but  was  too  much  terrified  at 
finding  herself  in  such  unexpected  company  to  make  any  pause  for 
conversation,  and  hurried  off  at  a  good  pace — being,  of  course,  no 
further  disturbed  than  by  an  accelerating  shout.  She  was  well  and 
showily  dressed,  and  was  probably  going  to  a  village  encamped 
somewhere  near,  and  evidently  did  not  belong  to  the  tribe  of  root 
diggers.  We  had  now  entered  a  country  inhabited  by  these  people; 
and  as  in  the  course  of  our  voyage  we  shall  frequently  meet  with 
them  in  various  stages  of  existence,  it  will  be  well  to  inform  you 
that,  scattered  over  the  great  region  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains, 
and  south  of  the  Great  Snake  river,  are  numerous  Indians  whose 
subsistence  is  almost  solely  derived  from  roots  and  seeds,  and  such 
small  animals  as  chance  and  great  good  fortune  sometimes  bring 
within  their  reach.  They  are  miserably  poor,  armed  only  with  bows 
and  arrows,  or  clubs;  and,  as  the  country  they  inhabit  is  almost 
destitute  of  game,  they  have  no  means  of  obtaining  better  arms.  In 
the  northern  part  of  the  region  just  mentioned,  they  live  generally 
in  solitary  families;  and  farther  to  the  south,  they  are  gathered  to- 
gether in  villages.  Those  who  live  together  in  villages,  strengthened 
by  association,  are  in  exclusive  possession  of  the  more  genial  and 
richer  parts  of  the  country;  while  the  others  are  driven  to  the  ruder 
mountains,  and  to  the  more  inhospitable  parts  of  the  country.  But 
by  simply  observing,  in  accompanying  us  along  our  road,  you  will 
become  better  acquainted  with  these  people  than  we  could  make  you 
in  any  other  than  a  very  long  description,  and  you  will  find  them 
worthy  of  your  interest. 

Roots,  seeds,  and  grass,  every  vegetable  that  affords  any  nourish- 
ment, and  every  living  animal  thing,  insect  or  worm,  they  eat. 
Nearly  approaching  to  the  lower  animal  creation,  their  sole  employ- 
ment is  to  obtain  food;  and  they  are  constantly  occupied  in  a 
struggle  to  support  existence. 

In  the  annexed  view  fp.  488]  will  be  found  a  sketch  of  the  Stand- 
ing roc\ — the  most  remarkable  feature  of  the  pass  where  a  huge 
rock,  fallen  from  the  cliffs  above,  and  standing  perpendicularly  near 
the  middle  of  the  valley,  presents  itself  like  a  watch  tower  in  the 
pass.  It  will  give  you  a  tolerably  correct  idea  of  the  character  of  the 
scenery  in  this  country,  where  generally  the  mountains  rise  abruptly 
up  from  comparatively  unbroken  plains  and  level  valleys;  but  it  will 

487 


O 


C 

J— • 
CO 

u 


to 


488 


entirely  fail  in  representing  the  picturesque  beauty  of  this  delightful 
place,  where  a  green  valley,  full  of  foliage,  and  a  hundred  yards 
wide,  contrasts  with  naked  crags  that  spire  up  into  a  blue  line  of 
pinnacles  3,000  feet  above,  sometimes  crested  with  cedar  and  pine, 
and  sometimes  ragged  and  bare. 

The  detention  that  we  met  with  in  opening  the  road,  and  perhaps 
a  willingness  to  linger  on  the  way,  made  the  afternoon's  travel  short; 
and  about  two  miles  from  the  entrance  we  passed  through  another 
gate,  and  encamped  on  the  stream  at  the  junction  of  a  little  fork 
from  the  southward,  around  which  the  mountains  stooped  more 
gently  down,  forming  a  small  open  cove. 

As  it  was  still  early  in  the  afternoon,  Basil  and  myself  in  one  di- 
rection, and  Mr.  Preuss  in  another,  set  out  to  explore  the  country, 
and  ascended  different  neighboring  peaks,  in  the  hope  of  seeing 
some  indications  of  the  lake;  but  though  our  elevation  afforded 
magnificent  views,  the  eye  ranging  over  a  long  extent  of  Bear  river, 
with  the  broad  and  fertile  Cache  valley  in  the  direction  of  our  search, 
was  only  to  be  seen  a  bed  of  apparently  impracticable  mountains. 
Among  these,  the  trail  we  had  been  following  turned  sharply  to  the 
northward,  and  it  began  to  be  doubtful  if  it  would  not  lead  us  away 
from  the  object  of  our  destination ;  but  I  nevertheless  determined  to 
keep  it,  in  the  belief  that  it  would  eventually  bring  us  right.  A  squall 
of  rain  drove  us  out  of  the  mountain,  and  it  was  late  when  we 
reached  the  camp.  The  evening  closed  in  with  frequent  showers  of 
rain,  with  some  lightning  and  thunder. 

August  30. — We  had  constant  thunder  storms  during  the  night, 
but  in  the  morning  the  clouds  were  sinking  to  the  horizon,  and  the 
air  was  clear  and  cold,  with  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  at  39°.  Eleva- 
tion by  barometer  5,580  feet.  We  were  in  motion  early,  continuing 
up  the  little  stream  without  encountering  any  ascent  where  a  horse 
would  not  easily  gallop,  and,  crossing  a  slight  dividing  ground  at 
the  summit,  descended  upon  a  small  stream,  along  which  we  con- 
tinued on  the  same  excellent  road.  In  riding  through  the  pass,  nu- 
merous cranes  were  seen;  and  prairie  hens,  or  grouse,  {bonasia 
umbellus,)  which  lately  had  been  rare,  were  very  abundant. 

This  little  affluent  brought  us  to  a  larger  stream  [Deep  Creek], 
down  which  we  travelled  through  a  more  open  bottom,  on  a  level 
road,  where  heavily-laden  wagons  could  pass  without  obstacle.  The 
hills  on  the  right  grew  lower,  and,  on  entering  a  more  open  country, 
we  discovered  a  Shoshonee  village;  and  being  desirous  to  obtain  in- 

489 


formation,  and  purchase  from  them  some  roots  and  berries  we  halted 
on  the  river,  which  was  Hghtly  wooded  with  cherry,  willow,  maple, 
service  berry,  and  aspen.  A  meridian  observation  of  the  sun,  which  I 
obtained  here,  gave  42°  14'  22"  for  our  latitude,  and  the  barometer 
indicated  a  height  of  5,170  feet.  A  number  of  Indians  came  immedi- 
ately over  to  visit  us,  and  several  men  were  sent  to  the  village  with 
goods,  tobacco,  knives,  cloth,  vermilion,  and  the  usual  trinkets,  to 
exchange  for  provisions.  But  they  had  no  game  of  any  kind ;  and  it 
was  difficult  to  obtain  any  roots  from  them,  as  they  were  miserably 
poor,  and  had  but  little  to  spare  from  their  winter  stock  of  pro- 
visions. Several  of  the  Indians  drew  aside  their  blankets  showing  me 
their  lean  and  bony  figures;  and  I  would  not  any  longer  tempt  them 
with  a  display  of  our  merchandise  to  part  with  their  wretched  sub- 
sistence, when  they  gave  as  a  reason  that  it  would  expose  them  to 
temporary  starvation.  A  great  portion  of  the  region  inhabited  by 
this  nation  formerly  abounded  in  game;  the  buffalo  ranging  about 
in  herds,  as  we  had  found  them  on  the  eastern  waters,  and  the  plains 
dotted  with  scattered  bands  of  antelope;  but  so  rapidly  have  they 
disappeared  within  a  few  years,  that  now,  as  we  journeyed  along,  an 
occasional  buffalo  skull  and  a  few  wild  antelope  were  all  that  re- 
mained of  the  abundance  which  had  covered  the  country  with  ani- 
mal life. 

The  extraordinary  rapidity  with  which  the  buffalo  is  disappearing 
from  our  territories  will  not  appear  surprising  when  we  remember 
the  great  scale  on  which  their  destruction  is  yearly  carried  on.  With 
inconsiderable  exceptions,  the  business  of  the  American  trading  posts 
is  carried  on  in  their  skins;  every  year  the  Indian  villages  make  new 
lodges,  for  which  the  skin  of  the  buffalo  furnishes  the  material;  and 
in  that  portion  of  the  country  where  they  are  still  found,  the  Indians 
derive  their  entire  support  from  them,  and  slaughter  them  with  a 
thoughtless  and  abominable  extravagance.  Like  the  Indians  them- 
selves, they  have  been  a  characteristic  of  the  Great  West;  and  as, 
like  them,  they  are  visibly  diminishing,  it  will  be  interesting  to  throw 
a  glance  backward  through  the  last  twenty  years,  and  give  some 
account  of  their  former  distribution  through  the  country,  and  the 
limit  of  their  western  range. 

The  information  is  derived  principally  from  Mr.  [Thomas]  Fitz- 
patrick,  supported  by  my  own  personal  knowledge  and  acquaintance 
with  the  country.  Our  knowledge  does  not  go  farther  back  than  the 
spring  of  1824,  at  which  time  the  buffalo  were  spread  in  immense 

490 


numbers  over  the  Green  river  and  Bear  river  valleys,  and  through  all 
the  country  lying  between  the  Colorado,  or  Green  river  of  the  gulf 
of  California,  and  Lewis's  fork  of  the  Columbia  river;  the  meridian 
of  Fort  Hall  then  forming  the  western  limit  of  their  range.  The 
buffalo  then  remained  for  many  years  in  that  country,  and  frequently 
moved  down  the  valley  of  the  Columbia,  on  both  sides  of  the  river 
as  far  as  the  Fishing  falls  [Salmon  Falls].  Below  this  point  they  never 
descended  in  any  numbers.  About  the  year  1834  or  1835  they  began  to 
diminish  very  rapidly,  and  continued  to  decrease  until  1838  or  1840, 
when,  with  the  country  we  have  just  described,  they  entirely  aban- 
doned all  the  waters  of  the  Pacific  north  of  Lewis's  fork  of  the 
Columbia.  At  that  time,  the  Flathead  Indians  were  in  the  habit  of 
finding  their  buffalo  on  the  heads  of  Salmon  river,  and  other  streams 
of  the  Columbia;  but  now  they  never  meet  with  them  farther  west 
than  the  three  forks  of  the  Missouri  or  the  plains  of  the  Yellowstone 
river. 

In  the  course  of  our  journey  it  will  be  remarked  that  the  buffalo 
have  not  so  entirely  abandoned  the  waters  of  the  Pacific,  in  the 
Rocky-mountain  region  south  of  the  Sweet  Water,  as  in  the  country 
north  of  the  Great  Pass.  This  partial  distribution  can  only  be  ac- 
counted for  in  the  great  pastoral  beauty  of  that  country,  which  bears 
marks  of  having  long  been  one  of  their  favorite  haunts,  and  by  the 
fact  that  the  white  hunters  have  more  frequented  the  northern  than 
the  southern  region — it  being  north  of  the  South  Pass  that  the 
hunters,  trappers,  and  traders,  have  had  their  rendezvous  for  many 
years  past;  and  from  that  section  also  the  greater  portion  of  the 
beaver  and  rich  furs  were  taken,  although  always  the  most  danger- 
ous as  well  as  the  most  profitable  hunting  ground. 

In  that  region  lying  between  the  Green  or  Colorado  river  and  the 
head  waters  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  over  the  Yampah,  Kooyah,  White, 
and  Grand  rivers — all  of  which  are  the  waters  of  the  Colorado — the 
buffalo  never  extended  so  far  to  the  westward  as  they  did  on  the 
waters  of  the  Columbia;  and  only  in  one  or  two  instances  have  they 
been  known  to  descend  as  far  west  as  the  mouth  of  White  river.  In 
travelling  through  the  country  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  obser- 
vation readily  led  me  to  the  impression  that  the  buffalo  had,  for  the 
first  time,  crossed  that  range  to  the  waters  of  the  Pacific  only  a  few 
years  prior  to  the  period  we  are  considering;  and  in  this  opinion  I 
am  sustained  by  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  and  the  older  trappers  in  that 
country.  In  the  region  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  we  never  meet 

491 


with  any  of  the  ancient  vestiges  which,  throughout  all  the  country 
lying  upon  their  eastern  waters,  are  found  in  the  great  highways, 
continuous  for  hundreds  of  miles,  always  several  inches  and  some- 
times several  feet  in  depth,  which  the  buffalo  have  made  in  crossing 
from  one  river  to  another,  or  in  traversing  the  mountain  ranges.  The 
Snake  Indians,  more  particularly  those  low  down  upon  Lewis's  fork, 
have  always  been  very  grateful  to  the  American  trappers,  for  the 
great  kindness  (as  they  frequently  expressed  it)  which  they  did  to 
them,  in  driving  the  buffalo  so  low  down  the  Columbia  river. 

The  extraordinary  abundance  of  the  buffalo  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Rocky  mountains,  and  their  extraordinary  diminution,  will  be  made 
clearly  evident  from  the  following  statement:  At  any  time  between 
the  years  1824  and  1836,  a  traveller  might  start  from  any  given  point 
south  or  north  in  the  river ;  and,  during  the  whole  distance,  his  road 
would  be  always  among  large  bands  of  buffalo,  which  would  never 
be  out  of  his  view  until  he  arrived  almost  within  sight  of  the  abodes 
of  civilization. 

At  this  time,  the  buffalo  occupy  but  a  very  limited  space,  princi- 
pally along  the  eastern  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  sometimes  ex- 
tending at  their  southern  extremity  to  a  considerable  distance  into 
the  plains  between  the  Platte  and  Arkansas  rivers,  and  along  the 
eastern  frontier  of  New  Mexico  as  far  south  as  Texas. 

The  following  statement,  which  I  owe  to  the  kindness  of  Mr. 
[John  F.  A.]  Sanford,  a  partner  in  the  American  Fur  Company,  will 
further  illustrate  this  subject,  by  extensive  knowledge  acquired  dur- 
ing several  years  of  travel  through  the  region  inhabited  by  the 
buffalo: 

"The  total  amount  of  robes  annually  traded  by  ourselves  and 
others  will  not  be  found  to  differ  much  from  the  following  state- 
ment: 

Robes. 
American  Fur  Company  .        .        .        70,000 

Hudson's  Bay  Company  .        .        .        10,000 

All  other  companies,  probably        .        .        10,000 
Making  a  total  of  ....        90,000 

as  an  average  annual  return  for  the  last  eight  or  ten  years. 

"In  the  northwest,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  purchase  from  the 
Indians  but  a  very  small  number — their  only  market  being  Canada, 
to  which  the  cost  of  transportation  nearly  equals  the  produce  of  the 

492 


furs;  and  it  is  only  within  a  very  recent  period  that  they  have  re- 
ceived buffalo  robes  in  trade ;  and  out  of  the  great  number  of  buffalo 
annually  killed  throughout  the  extensive  regions  inhabited  by  the 
Camanches  and  other  kindred  tribes,  no  robes  whatever  are  furnished 
for  trade.  During  only  four  months  of  the  year,  (from  November 
until  March,)  the  skins  are  good  for  dressing;  those  obtained  in  the 
remaining  eight  months  being  valueless  to  traders;  and  the  hides  of 
bulls  are  never  taken  off  or  dressed  as  robes  at  any  season.  Probably 
not  more  than  one-third  of  the  skins  are  taken  from  the  animals 
killed,  even  when  they  are  in  good  season,  the  labor  of  preparing 
and  dressing  the  robes  being  very  great;  and  it  is  seldom  that  a  lodge 
trades  more  than  twenty  skins  in  a  year.  It  is  during  the  summer 
months,  and  in  the  early  part  of  autumn,  that  the  greatest  number  of 
bufifalo  are  killed,  and  yet  at  this  time  a  skin  is  never  taken  for  the 
purpose  of  trade." 

From  these  data,  which  are  certainly  limited,  and  decidedly  within 
bounds,  the  reader  is  left  to  draw  his  own  inference  of  the  immense 
number  annually  killed. 

In  1842,  I  found  the  Sioux  Indians  of  the  Upper  Platte  demontes, 
as  their  French  traders  expressed  it,  with  the  failure  of  the  buffalo; 
and  in  the  following  year,  large  villages  from  the  Upper  Missouri 
came  over  to  the  mountains  at  the  heads  of  the  Platte,  in  search  of 
them.  The  rapidly  progressive  failure  of  their  principal  and  almost 
their  only  means  of  subsistence  had  created  great  alarm  among 
them ;  and  at  this  time  there  are  only  two  modes  presented  to  them, 
by  which  they  see  a  good  prospect  for  escaping  starvation:  one  of 
these  is  to  rob  the  settlements  along  the  frontier  of  the  States;  and 
the  other  is  to  form  a  league  between  the  various  tribes  of  the  Sioux 
nation,  the  Cheyennes,  and  Arapahoes,  and  make  war  against  the 
Crow  nation,  in  order  to  take  from  them  their  country,  which  is  now 
the  best  buffalo  country  in  the  west.  This  plan  they  now  have  in 
consideration;  and  it  would  probably  be  a  war  of  extermination,  as 
the  Crows  have  long  been  advised  of  this  state  of  affairs,  and  say  that 
they  are  perfectly  prepared.  These  are  the  best  warriors  in  the  Rocky 
mountains,  and  are  now  allied  with  the  Snake  Indians;  and  it  is 
probable  that  their  combination  would  extend  itself  to  the  Utahs, 
who  have  long  been  engaged  in  war  against  the  Sioux.  It  is  in  this 
section  of  country  that  my  observation  formerly  led  me  to  recom- 
mend the  establishment  of  a  military  post. 

The  farther  course  of  our  narrative  will  give  fuller  and  more  de- 

493 


tailed  information  of  the  present  disposition  of  the  buffalo  in  the 
country  we  visited. 

Among  the  roots  we  obtained  here,  I  could  distinguish  only  five  or 
six  different  kinds;  and  the  supply  of  the  Indians  whom  we  met  con- 
sisted principally  of  yampah,  {anethum,  graveolens,)  tobacco  root, 
{Valeriana,)  and  a  large  root  of  a  species  of  thistle,  {circium  Vir- 
ginianum,)  which  now  is  occasionally  abundant,  and  is  a  very  agree- 
ably flavored  vegetable. 

We  had  been  detained  so  long  at  the  village,  that  in  the  afternoon 
we  made  only  five  miles,  and  encamped  on  the  same  river  after  a 
day's  journey  of  19  miles.  The  Indians  informed  us  that  we  should 
reach  the  big  salt  water  after  having  slept  twice  and  travelling  in  a 
south  direction.  The  stream  had  here  entered  a  nearly  level  plain  or 
valley,  of  good  soil,  eight  or  ten  miles  broad,  to  which  no  termina- 
tion was  to  be  seen,  and  lying  between  ranges  of  mountains  which, 
on  the  right,  were  grassy  and  smooth,  unbroken  by  rock,  and  lower 
than  on  the  left,  where  they  were  rocky  and  bald,  increasing  in 
height  to  the  southward.  On  the  creek  were  fringes  of  young  wil- 
lows, older  trees  being  rarely  found  on  the  plains,  where  the  Indians 
burn  the  surface  to  produce  better  grass.  Several  magpies  (pica  Hud- 
sofiica)  were  seen  on  the  creek  this  afternoon ;  and  a  ratdesnake  was 
killed  here,  the  first  which  had  been  seen  since  leaving  the  eastern 
plains.  Our  camp  to-night  had  such  a  hungry  appearance,  that  I 
suffered  the  little  cow  to  be  killed,  and  divided  the  roots  and  berries 
among  the  people.  A  number  of  Indians  from  the  village  encamped 
near. 

The  weather  the  next  morning  was  clear,  the  thermometer  at  sun- 
rise at  44.5°,  and,  continuing  down  the  valley,  in  about  five  miles  we 
followed  the  little  creek  of  our  encampment  to  its  junction  with  a 
larger  stream,  called  Roseaux,  or  Reed  [Malad]  river.  Immedi- 
ately opposite,  on  the  right,  the  range  was  gathered  into  its  highest 
peak,  sloping  gradually  low,  and  running  off  to  a  point  apparently 
some  forty  or  fifty  miles  below.  Between  this  (now  become  the  val- 
ley stream)  and  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  we  journeyed  along  a 
handsome  sloping  level,  which  frequent  springs  from  the  hills  made 
occasionally  miry,  and  halted  to  noon  at  a  swampy  spring,  where 
there  were  good  grass  and  abundant  rushes.  Here  the  river  was 
forty  feet  wide,  with  a  considerable  current;  and  the  valley  a  mile 
and  a  half  in  breadth;  the  soil  being  generally  good,  of  a  dark  color, 
and  apparendy  well  adapted  to  cultivation.  The  day  had  become 

494 


bright  and  pleasant,  with  the  thermometer  at  71°.  By  observation, 
our  latitude  was  41°  59' 31",  and  the  elevation  above  the  sea  4,670 
feet.  On  our  left,  this  afternoon,  the  range  at  long  intervals  formed 
itself  into  peaks,  appearing  to  terminate,  about  forty  miles  below,  in 
a  rocky  cape;  beyond  which,  several  others  were  faintly  visible;  and 
we  were  disappointed  when  at  every  little  rise  we  did  not  see  the  lake. 
Towards  evening,  our  way  was  somewhat  obstructed  by  fields  of 
artemisia,  which  began  to  make  their  appearance  here,  and  we  en- 
camped on  the  Roseaux,  the  water  of  which  had  acquired  a  decidedly 
salt  taste,  nearly  opposite  to  a  canon  gap  in  the  mountains,  through 
which  the  Bear  river  enters  this  valley.  As  we  encamped,  the  night 
set  in  dark  and  cold,  with  heavy  rain ;  and  the  artemisia,  which  was 
here  our  only  wood,  was  so  wet  that  it  would  not  burn.  A  poor, 
nearly  starved  dog,  with  a  wound  in  his  side  from  a  ball,  came  to  the 
camp,  and  remained  with  us  until  the  winter,  when  he  met  a  very 
unexpected  fate. 

September  1. — The  morning  was  squally  and  cold;  the  sky  scat- 
tered over  with  clouds;  and  the  night  had  been  so  uncomfortable, 
that  we  were  not  on  the  road  until  8  o'clock.  Travelling  between 
Roseaux  and  Bear  rivers,  we  continued  to  descend  the  valley,  which 
gradually  expanded,  as  we  advanced,  into  a  level  plain  of  good  soil, 
about  25  miles  in  breadth,  between  mountains  3,000  and  4,000  feet 
high,  rising  suddenly  to  the  clouds,  which  all  day  rested  upon  the 
peaks.  These  gleamed  out  in  the  occasional  sunlight,  mantled  with 
the  snow  which  had  fallen  upon  them,  while  it  rained  on  us  in  the 
valley  below,  of  which  the  elevation  here  was  about  4,500  feet  above 
the  sea.  The  country  before  us  plainly  indicated  that  we  were  ap- 
proaching the  lake,  though,  as  the  ground  where  we  were  travelling 
afforded  no  elevated  point,  nothing  of  it  as  yet  could  be  seen;  and  at 
a  great  distance  ahead  were  several  isolated  mountains,  resembling  is- 
lands, which  they  were  afterwards  found  to  be.  On  this  upper  plain  the 
grass  was  every  where  dead ;  and  among  the  shrubs  with  which  it  was 
almost  exclusively  occupied,  (artemisia  being  the  most  abundant,) 
frequently  occurred  handsome  clusters  of  several  species  of  dieteria' 
in  bloom.  Purshia  tridentata  was  among  the  frequent  shrubs.  De- 
scending to  the  bottoms  of  Bear  river,  we  found  good  grass  for  the 
animals,  and  encamped  about  300  yards  above  the  mouth  of  Roseaux, 
which  here  makes  it  junction,  without  communicating  any  of  its 


51.  Machaeranthera  viscosa  (Nutt.)  Greene. 

495 


salty  taste  to  the  main  stream,  of  which  the  water  remains  perfectly 
pure.  On  the  river  are  only  willow  thickets,  {salix  longifolia,Y~  and 
in  the  bottoms  the  abundant  plants  are  canes,  solidago,  and  helianthi, 
and  along  the  banks  of  Roseaux  are  fields  of  malva  rotundijolia.  At 
sunset  the  thermometer  was  at  54°. 5,  and  the  evening  clear  and 
calm;  but  I  deferred  making  any  use  of  it  until  1  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  when  I  endeavored  to  obtain  an  emersion  of  the  first  satel- 
lite; but  it  was  lost  in  a  bank  of  clouds,  which  also  rendered  our 
usual  observations  indifferent. 

Among  the  useful  things  which  formed  a  portion  of  our  equipage, 
was  an  India-rubber  boat,  18  feet  long,  made  somewhat  in  the  form 
of  a  bark  canoe  of  the  northern  lakes.  The  sides  were  formed  by  two 
air-tight  cylinders,  eighteen  inches  in  diameter,  connected  with 
others  forming  the  bow  and  stern.  To  lessen  the  danger  from  acci- 
dents to  the  boat,  these  were  divided  into  four  different  compart- 
ments, and  the  interior  space  was  sufficiently  large  to  contain  five  or 
six  persons  and  a  considerable  weight  of  baggage.  The  Roseaux  be- 
ing too  deep  to  be  forded,  our  boat  was  filled  with  air,  and  in  about 
one  hour  all  the  equipage  of  the  camp,  carriage  and  gun  included, 
ferried  across.  Thinking  that  perhaps  in  the  course  of  the  day  we 
might  reach  the  outlet  at  the  lake,  I  got  into  the  boat  with  Basil 
Lajeunesse,  and  paddled  down  Bear  river,  intending  at  night  to  re- 
join the  party,  which  in  the  mean  time  proceeded  on  its  way.  The 
river  was  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  yards  broad,  and  the  water  so 
deep,  that  even  on  the  comparatively  shallow  points  we  could  not 
reach  the  bottom  with  15  feet.  On  either  side  were  alternately  low 
bottoms  and  willow  points,  with  an  occasional  high  prairie;  and  for 
five  or  six  hours  we  followed  slowly  the  winding  course  of  the  river, 
which  crept  along  with  a  sluggish  current  among  frequent  detours 
several  miles  around,  sometimes  running  for  a  considerable  distance 
directly  up  the  valley.  As  we  were  stealing  quietly  down  the  stream, 
trying  in  vain  to  get  a  shot  at  a  strange  large  bird  that  was  numerous 
among  the  willows,  but  very  shy,  we  came  unexpectedly  upon  sev- 
eral families  of  Root  Diggers,  who  were  encamped  among  the  rushes 
on  the  shore,  and  appeared  very  busy  about  several  weirs  or  nets 
which  had  been  rudely  made  of  canes  and  rushes  for  the  purpose  of 
catching  fish.  They  were  very  much  startled  at  our  appearance,  but 
we  soon  established  an  acquaintance;  and  finding  that  tKey  had 


52.  Probably  Salix  interior  Rowlee. 

496 


some  roots;  I  promised  to  send  some  men  with  goods  to  trade  with 
them.  They  had  the  usual  very  large  heads,  remarkable  among  the 
Digger  tribe,  with  matted  hair,  and  were  almost  entirely  naked; 
looking  very  poor  and  miserable,  as  if  their  lives  had  been  spent  in 
the  rushes  where  they  were,  beyond  which  they  seemed  to  have  very 
little  knowledge  of  any  thing.  From  the  few  words  we  could  com- 
prehend, their  language  was  that  of  the  Snake  Indians. 

Our  boat  moved  so  heavily,  that  we  had  made  very  little  progress; 
and,  finding  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  overtake  the  camp,  as 
soon  as  we  were  sufficiently  far  below  the  Indians,  we  put  to  the 
shore  near  a  high  prairie  bank,  hauled  up  the  boat,  and  cached  our 
effects  in  the  willows.  Ascending  the  bank,  we  found  that  our  desul- 
tory labor  had  brought  us  only  a  few  miles  in  a  direct  line;  and,  go- 
ing out  into  the  prairie,  after  a  search  we  found  the  trail  of  the  camp, 
which  was  now  nowhere  in  sight,  but  had  followed  the  general 
course  of  the  river  in  a  large  circular  sweep  which  it  makes  at  this 
place.  The  sun  was  about  three  hours  high  when  we  found  the  trail; 
and  as  our  people  had  passed  early  in  the  day,  we  had  the  prospect  of 
a  vigorous  walk  before  us.  Immediately  where  we  landed,  the  high 
arable  plain  on  which  we  had  been  travelling  for  several  days  past 
terminated  in  extensive  low  flats,  very  generally  occupied  by  salt 
marshes,  or  beds  of  shallow  lakes,  whence  the  water  had  in  most 
places  evaporated,  leaving  their  hard  surface  encrusted  with  a  shin- 
ing white  residuum,  and  absolutely  covered  with  very  small  univalve 
shells.  As  we  advanced,  the  whole  country  around  us  assumed  this 
appearance;  and  there  was  no  other  vegetation  than  the  shrubby 
chenopodiaceous  and  other  apparendy  saline  plants,  which  were  con- 
fined to  the  rising  grounds.  Here  and  there  on  the  river  bank,  which 
was  raised  like  a  levee  above  the  flats  through  which  it  ran,  was  a 
narrow  border  of  grass  and  short  black-burnt  willows;  the  stream 
being  very  deep  and  sluggish,  and  sometimes  600  to  800  feet  wide. 
After  a  rapid  walk  of  about  15  miles,  we  caught  sight  of  the  camp 
fires  among  clumps  of  willows  just  as  the  sun  had  sunk  behind  the 
mountains  on  the  west  side  of  the  valley,  filling  the  clear  sky  with  a 
golden  yellow.  These  last  rays,  to  us  so  precious,  could  not  have  re- 
vealed a  more  welcome  sight.  To  the  traveller  and  the  hunter,  a 
camp  fire  in  the  lonely  wilderness  is  always  cheering;  and  to  our- 
selves, in  our  present  situation,  after  a  hard  march  in  a  region  of 
novelty,  approaching  the  debouches  of  a  river,  in  a  lake  of  almost 
fabulous  reputation,  it  was  doubly  so.  A  plentiful  supper  of  aquatic 

497 


birds,  and  the  interest  of  the  scene,  soon  dissipated  fatigue;  and  I  ob- 
tained during  the  night  emersions  of  the  second,  third,  and  fourth 
satelhtes  of  Jupiter,  with  observations  for  time  and  latitude. 

September  3. — The  morning  was  clear,  with  a  light  air  from  the 
north,  and  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  at  45°. 5.  At  3  in  the  morning, 
Basil  was  sent  back  with  several  men  and  horses  for  the  boat,  which, 
in  a  direct  course  across  the  flats,  was  not  10  miles  distant;  and  in  the 
mean  time  there  was  a  pretty  spot  of  grass  here  for  the  animals.  The 
ground  was  so  low  that  we  could  not  get  high  enough  to  see  across 
the  river,  on  account  of  the  willows;  but  we  were  evidently  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  lake,  and  the  water  fowl  made  this  morning  a  noise 
like  thunder.  A  pelican  {pelecanus  onecrotalus)  was  killed  as  he 
passed  by,  and  many  geese  and  ducks  flew  over  the  camp.  On  the  dry 
salt  marsh  here,  is  scarce  any  other  plant  than  salicornia  herbacea. 

In  the  afternoon  the  men  returned  with  the  boat,  bringing  with 
them  a  small  quantity  of  roots,  and  some  meat,  which  the  Indians 
had  told  them  was  bear  meat. 

Descending  the  river  for  about  three  miles  in  the  afternoon,  we 
found  a  bar  to  any  further  travelling  in  that  direction — the  stream 
being  spread  out  in  several  branches,  and  covering  the  low  grounds 
with  water,  where  the  miry  nature  of  the  bottom  did  not  permit  any 
further  advance.  We  were  evidently  on  the  border  of  the  lake,  al- 
though the  rushes  and  canes  which  covered  the  marshes  prevented 
any  view;  and  we  accordingly  encamped  at  the  little  delta  which 
forms  the  mouth  of  Bear  river;  a  long  arm  of  the  lake  stretching  up 
to  the  north  between  us  and  the  opposite  mountains.  The  river  was 
bordered  with  a  fringe  of  willows  and  canes,  among  which  were 
interspersed  a  few  plants;  and  scattered  about  on  the  marsh  was  a 
species  of  uniola,  closely  allied  to  IJ .  spicata  of  our  sea  coast.  The 
whole  morass  was  animated  with  multitudes  of  water  fowl,  which 
appeared  to  be  very  wild — rising  for  the  space  of  a  mile  round  about 
at  the  sound  of  a  gun,  with  a  noise  like  distant  thunder.  Several  of 
the  people  waded  out  into  the  marshes,  and  we  had  to-night  a  de- 
licious supper  of  ducks,  geese,  and  plover.  [They  were  at  Bear  River 
Bay.  The  mountains  were  the  Promontory  range.] 

Although  the  moon  was  bright,  the  night  was  otherwise  favorable; 
and  I  obtained  this  evening  an  emersion  of  the  first  satellite,  with  the 
usual  observations.  A  mean  result,  depending  on  various  observations 
made  during  our  stay  in  the  neighborhood,  places  the  mouth  of  the 

498 


river  in  longitude  112°  19' 30"  west  from  Greenwich;  latitude  41°  30' 
22";  and,  according  to  the  barometer,  in  elevation  4,200  feet  above 
the  gulf  of  Mexico.  The  night  was  clear,  with  considerable  dew, 
which  I  had  remarked  every  night  since  the  first  of  September.  The 
next  morning,  while  we  were  preparing  to  start,  Carson  rode  into 
the  camp  with  flour  and  a  few  other  articles  of  light  provision,  suffi- 
cient for  two  or  three  days— a  scanty  but  very  acceptable  supply.  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick  had  not  yet  arrived,  and  provisions  were  very  scarce,  and 
difficult  to  be  had  at  Fort  Hall,  which  had  been  entirely  exhausted  by 
the  necessities  of  the  emigrants.  He  brought  me  also  a  letter  from 
Dr.  Dwight,  who,  in  company  with  several  emigrants,  had  reached 
that  place  in  advance  of  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  and  was  about  continuing 
his  journey  to  Vancouver. 

Returning  about  five  miles  up  the  river,  we  were  occupied  until 
nearly  sunset  in  crossing  to  the  left  bank— the  stream,  which  in  the 
last  five  or  six  miles  of  its  course,  is  very  much  narrower  than  above, 
being  very  deep  immediately  at  the  banks;  and  we  had  great  diffi- 
culty in  getting  our  animals  over.  The  people  with  the  baggage  were 
easily  crossed  in  the  boat,  and  we  encamped  on  the  left  bank  where 
we  crossed  the  river.  At  sunset  the  thermometer  was  at  75°,  and 
there  was  some  rain  during  the  night,  with  a  thunder  storm  at  a 
distance. 

September  5. — Before  us  was  evidently  the  bed  of  the  lake,  being 
a  great  salt  marsh,  perfectly  level  and  bare,  whitened  in  places  by 
saline  efflorescences,  with  here  and  there  a  pool  of  water,  and  having 
the  appearance  of  a  very  level  sea  shore  at  low  tide.  Immediately 
along  the  river  was  a  very  narrow  strip  of  vegetation,  consisting  of 
willows,  helianthi,  roses,  flowering  vines,  and  grass;  bordered  on  the 
verge  of  the  great  marsh  by  a  fringe  of  singular  plants,  which  appear 
to  be  a  shrubby  salicornia,  or  a  genus  allied  to  it. 

About  12  miles  to  the  southward  was  one  of  those  isolated  moun- 
tains now  appearing  to  be  a  kind  of  peninsula;  and  towards  this  we 
accordingly  directed  our  course,  as  it  probably  afforded  a  good  view 
of  the  lake;  but  the  deepening  mud  as  we  advanced  forced  us  to  re- 
turn toward  the  river,  and  gain  the  higher  ground  at  the  foot  of  the 
eastern  mountains.  Here  we  halted  for  a  few  minutes  at  noon,  on 
a  beautiful  little  stream  of  pure  and  remarkably  clear  water,  with 
a  bed  of  rock  in  situ,  on  which  was  an  abundant  water  plant  with  a 
white  blossom.  There  was  good  grass  in  the  bottoms;  and,  amidst  a 

499 


rather  luxuriant  growth,  its  banks  were  bordered  with  a  large  showy 
plant  {eupatorium  purpureum,)  which  I  here  saw  for  the  first  time. 
We  named  the  stream  Clear  [Willard]  creek,. 

We  continued  our  way  along  the  mountain,  having  found  here  a 
broad  plainly  beaten  trail,  over  what  was  apparently  the  shore  of  the 
lake  in  the  spring;  the  ground  being  high  and  firm,  and  the  soil  ex- 
cellent and  covered  with  vegetation,  among  which  a  leguminous 
plant  (glycyrrhiza  lepidota)  was  a  characteristic  plant.  The  ridge 
here  rises  abruptly  to  the  height  of  about  4,000  feet ;  its  face  being  very 
prominently  marked  with  a  massive  stratum  of  rose-colored  granu- 
lar quartz,  which  is  evidently  an  altered  sedimentary  rock ;  the  lines 
of  deposition  being  very  distinct.  It  is  rocky  and  steep;  divided  into 
several  mountains;  and  the  rain  in  the  valley  appears  to  be  always 
snow  on  their  summits  at  this  season.  Near  a  remarkable  rocky  point 
of  the  mountain,  at  a  large  spring  of  pure  water,  were  several  hack- 
berry  trees,  {celtis,)  probably  a  new  species,  the  berries  still  green; 
and  a  short  distance  farther,  thickets  of  sumach  {rhus.) 

On  the  plain  here  I  noticed  blackbirds  and  grouse.  In  about  seven 
miles  from  Clear  creek,  the  trail  brought  us  to  a  place  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountain  where  there  issued  with  considerable  force  ten  or 
twelve  hot  springs,  highly  impregnated  with  salt.  In  one  of  these, 
the  thermometer  stood  at  136°,  and  in  another  at  132°.5;  and  the 
water,  which  spread  in  pools  over  the  low  ground,  was  colored  red.* 

At  this  place  the  trail  we  had  been  following  turned  to  the  left, 
apparently  with  the  view  of  entering  a  gorge  in  the  mountain,  from 
which  issued  the  principal  fork  of  a  large  and  comparatively  well- 

*  An  analysis  of  the  red  earthy  matter  deposited  in  the  bed  of  the  stream 
from  the  springs,  gives  the  following  result: 

Peroxide     of     iron 33.50 

Carbonate    of    magnesia    .         .         .         .         .         .2.40 

Carbonate    of    lime    .......     50.43 

Sulphate   of   lime    ........       2.00 

Chloride   of   sodium    .......       3.45 

Silica    and    alumina    .......       3.00 

Water  and  loss  ........       5.22 

100.00 

[Adding  to  JCF's  note,  we  can  say  that  the  springs  he  has  encountered  are 
Utah  Hot  Springs.  His  camp  of  5  Sept.  was  on  the  Weber  River  at  its  north- 
ernmost bend,  about  a  mile  south  of  Plain  City.  The  next  day  he  will  reach 
what  he  calls  a  butte,  now  Little  Mountain,  where  at  an  altitude  of  4,673  feet 
there  is  a  marker  to  commemorate  his  passage.] 

500 


timbered  stream,  called  Weber's  fork.  We  accordingly  turned  off 
towards  the  lake,  and  encamped  on  this  river,  which  was  100  to  150 
feet  wide,  with  high  banks,  and  very  clear  pure  water,  without  the 
slightest  indication  of  salt. 

September  6. — Leaving  the  encampment  early,  we  again  directed 
our  course  for  the  peninsular  butte  across  a  low  shrubby  plain,  cross- 
ing in  the  way  a  slough-like  creek  with  miry  banks,  and  wooded 
with  thickets  of  thorn  {Crataegus)  which  were  loaded  with  berries. 
This  time  we  reached  the  butte  without  any  difficulty,  and,  ascend- 
ing to  the  summit,  immediately  at  our  feet  beheld  the  object  of  our 
anxious  search — the  waters  of  the  Inland  Sea,  stretching  in  still  and 
solitary  grandeur  far  beyond  the  limit  of  our  vision.  It  was  one  of 
the  great  points  of  the  exploration;  and  as  we  looked  eagerly  over 
the  lake  in  the  first  emotions  of  excited  pleasure,  I  am  doubtful  if 
the  followers  of  Balboa  felt  more  enthusiasm  when,  from  the 
heights  of  the  Andes,  they  saw  for  the  first  time  the  great  Western 
ocean.  It  was  certainly  a  magnificent  object,  and  a  noble  terminus 
to  this  part  of  our  expedition;  and  to  travellers  so  long  shut  up 
among  mountain  ranges,  a  sudden  view  over  the  expanse  of  silent 
waters  had  in  it  something  sublime.  Several  large  islands  raised  their 
high  rocky  heads  out  of  the  waves;  but  whether  or  not  they  were 
timbered,  was  still  left  to  our  imagination,  as  the  distance  was  too 
great  to  determine  if  the  dark  hues  upon  them  were  woodland  or 
naked  rock.  During  the  day  the  clouds  had  been  gathering  black 
over  the  mountains  to  the  westward,  and,  while  we  were  looking,  a 
storm  burst  down  with  sudden  fury  upon  the  lake,  and  entirely  hid 
the  islands  from  our  view.  So  far  as  we  could  see,  along  the  shores 
there  was  not  a  solitary  tree,  and  but  little  appearance  of  grass;  and 
on  Weber's  fork,  a  few  miles  below  our  last  encampment,  the  timber 
was  gathered  into  groves,  and  then  disappeared  entirely.  As  this 
appeared  to  be  the  nearest  point  to  the  lake  where  a  suitable  camp 
could  be  found,  we  directed  our  course  to  one  of  the  groves,  where 
we  found  a  handsome  encampment,  with  good  grass  and  an  abun- 
dance of  rushes,  {equisetum  hyemale.y^  At  sunset,  the  thermometer 
was  at  55° ;  the  evening  clear  and  calm,  with  some  cumuli. 

September  7. — The  morning  was  calm  and  clear,  with  a  tempera- 
ture at  sunrise  at  39°.5.  The  day  was  spent  in  active  preparation  for 
our  intended  voyage  on  the  lake.  On  the  edge  of  the  stream  a  favor- 


53.  Almost  certainly  Juncus  sp. 

501 


able  spot  was  selected  in  a  grove,  and,  felling  the  timber,  we  made 
a  strong  coral,  or  horse  pen,  for  the  animals,  and  a  little  fort  for  the 
people  who  were  to  remain.  We  were  now  probably  in  the  country 
of  the  Utah  Indians,  though  none  reside  upon  the  lake.  The  India- 
rubber  boat  was  repaired  with  prepared  cloth  and  gum,  and  filled 
with  air,  in  readiness  for  the  next  day. 

The  provisions  which  Carson  had  brought  with  him  being  now 
exhausted,  and  our  stock  reduced  to  a  small  quantity  of  roots,  I  de- 
termined to  retain  with  me  only  a  sufficient  number  of  men  for  the 
execution  of  our  design;  and  accordingly  seven  were  sent  back  to 
Fort  Hall,  under  the  guidance  of  Francois  Lajeunesse,  who,  having 
been  for  many  years  a  trapper  in  the  country,  was  considered  an 
experienced  mountaineer.  Though  they  were  provided  with  good 
horses,  and  the  road  was  a  remarkably  plain  one  of  only  four  days' 
journey  for  a  horseman,  they  became  bewildered,  (as  we  afterwards 
learned,)  and,  losing  their  way,  wandered  about  the  country  in 
parties  of  one  or  two,  reaching  the  fort  about  a  week  afterwards. 
Some  straggled  in  of  themselves,  and  the  others  were  brought  in  by 
Indians  who  had  picked  them  up  on  Snake  river,  about  sixty  miles 
below  the  fort,  travelling  along  the  emigrant  road  in  full  march  for 
the  Lower  Columbia.  The  leader  of  this  adventurous  party  was 
Frangois. 

Hourly  barometrical  observations  were  made  during  the  day,  and, 
after  departure  of  the  party  for  Fort  Hall,  we  occupied  ourselves  in 
continuing  our  little  preparations,  and  in  becoming  acquainted  with 
the  country  in  the  vicinity.  The  bottoms  along  the  river  were  tim- 
bered with  several  kinds  of  willow,  hawthorn,  and  fine  cottonwood 
trees  {populus  canadensis)  with  remarkably  large  leaves,  and  sixty 
feet  in  height  by  measurement. 

We  formed  now  but  a  small  family.  With  Mr.  Preuss  and  myself, 
Carson,  Bernier,  and  Basil  Lajeunesse,  had  been  selected  for  the 
boat  expedition — the  first  ever  attempted  on  this  interior  sea;^^  and 
Badeau,  with  Derosier,  and  Jacob,  (the  colored  man,)  were  to  be 
left  in  charge  of  the  camp.  We  were  favored  with  the  most  delight- 
ful weather.  To-night  there  was  a  brilliant  sunset  of  golden  orange 
and  green,  which  left  the  western  sky  clear  and  beautifully  pure; 
but  clouds  in  the  east  made  me  lose  an  occultation.  The  summer 


54.  Not  true.  William  H.  Ashley's  men  had  sailed  around  the  lake  in  skin 
canoes  in  1826. 

502 


frogs  were  singing  around  us,  and  the  evening  was  very  pleasant, 
with  a  temperature  of  60° — a  night  of  a  more  southern  autumn.  For 
our  supper  we  had  yampah,  the  most  agreeably  flavored  of  the  roots, 
seasoned  by  a  small  fat  duck,  which  had  come  in  the  way  of  Jacob's 
rifle.  Around  our  fire  to-night  were  many  speculations  on  what  to- 
morrow would  bring  forth,  and  in  our  busy  conjectures  we  fan- 
cied that  we  should  find  every  one  of  the  large  islands  a  tangled 
wilderness  of  trees  and  shrubbery,  teeming  with  game  of  every 
description  that  the  neighboring  region  afforded,  and  which  the  foot 
of  a  white  man  or  Indian  had  never  violated.  Frequendy,  during  the 
day,  clouds  had  rested  on  the  summits  of  their  lofty  mountains,  and 
we  believed  that  we  should  find  clear  streams  and  springs  of  fresh 
water;  and  we  indulged  in  anticipations  of  the  luxurious  repasts 
with  which  we  were  to  indemnify  ourselves  for  past  privations. 
Neither,  in  our  discussions,  were  the  whirlpool  and  other  mysterious 
dangers  forgotten,  which  Indian  and  hunter's  stories  attributed  to 
this  unexplored  lake.  The  men  had  discovered  that,  instead  of  be- 
ing strongly  sewed  (like  that  of  the  preceding  year,  which  had  so 
triumphandy  rode  the  cafions  of  the  Upper  Great  Platte,)  our  pres- 
ent boat  was  only  pasted  together  in  a  very  insecure  manner,  the 
maker  having  been  allowed  so  little  time  in  the  construction,  that  he 
was  obliged  to  crowd  the  labor  of  two  months  into  several  days.  The 
insecurity  of  the  boat  was  sensibly  felt  by  us;  and,  mingled  with  the 
enthusiasm  and  excitement  that  we  all  felt  at  the  prospect  of  an 
undertaking  which  had  never  before  been  accomplished,  was  a 
certain  impression  of  danger,  sufficient  to  give  a  serious  character  to 
our  conversation.  The  momentary  view  which  had  been  had  of  the 
lake  the  day  before,  its  great  extent  and  rugged  islands,  dimly  seen 
amidst  the  dark  waters  in  the  obscurity  of  the  sudden  storm,  were 
well  calculated  to  heighten  the  idea  of  undefined  danger  with  which 
the  lake  was  generally  associated. 

September  8.— A  calm,  clear  day,  with  a  sunrise  temperature  of 
41°.  In  view  of  our  present  enterprise,  a  part  of  the  equipment  of 
the  boat  had  been  made  to  consist  in  three  air-tight  bags,  about  three 
feet  long,  and  capable  each  of  containing  five  gallons.  These  had 
been  filled  with  water  the  night  before,  and  were  now  placed  in  the 
boat,  with  our  blankets  and  instruments,  consisdng  of  a  sextant, 
telescope,  spy  glass,  thermometer,  and  barometer. 

We  left  the  camp  at  sunrise,  and  had  a  very  pleasant  voyage  down 
the  river,  in  which  there  was  generally  eight  or  ten  feet  of  water, 

503 


deepening  as  we  neared  the  mouth  in  the  latter  part  of  the  day.  In 
the  course  of  the  morning  we  discovered  that  two  of  the  cyhnders 
leaked  so  much  as  to  require  one  man  constantly  at  the  bellows,  to 
keep  them  sufficiently  full  of  air  to  support  the  boat.  Although  we 
had  made  a  very  early  start,  we  loitered  so  much  on  the  way — 
stopping  every  now  and  then,  and  floating  silently  along,  to  get  a 
shot  at  a  goose  or  a  duck — that  it  was  late  in  the  day  when  we 
reached  the  outlet.  The  river  here  divided  into  several  branches, 
filled  with  fluvials,  and  so  very  shallow  that  it  was  with  difficulty 
we  could  get  the  boat  along,  being  obliged  to  get  out  and  wade.  We 
encamped  on  a  low  point  among  rushes  and  young  willows,  where 
there  was  a  quantity  of  drift  wood,  which  served  for  our  fires.  The 
evening  was  mild  and  clear;  we  made  a  pleasant  bed  of  the  young 
willows;  and  geese  and  ducks  enough  had  been  killed  for  an  abun- 
dant supper  at  night,  and  for  breakfast  the  next  morning.  The  still- 
ness of  the  night  was  enlivened  by  millions  of  water  fowl.  Latitude 
(by  observation)  41°  11' 26";  and  longitude  112°  11' 30". 

September  9.— The  day  was  clear  and  calm;  the  thermometer  at 
sunrise  at  49°.  As  is  usual  with  the  trappers  on  the  eve  of  any  enter- 
prise, our  people  had  made  dreams,  and  theirs  happened  to  be  a  bad 
one — one  which  always  preceded  evil — and  consequently  they 
looked  very  gloomy  this  morning;  but  we  hurried  through  our 
breakfast,  in  order  to  make  an  early  start,  and  have  all  the  day  be- 
fore us  for  our  adventure.  The  channel  in  a  short  distance  became 
so  shallow  that  our  navigation  was  at  an  end,  being  merely  a  sheet 
of  soft  mud,  with  a  few  inches  of  water,  and  sometimes  none  at  all, 
forming  the  low-water  shore  of  the  lake.  All  this  place  was  abso- 
lutely covered  with  flocks  of  screaming  plover.  We  took  off  our 
clothes,  and,  getting  overboard,  commenced  dragging  the  boat- 
making,  by  this  operation,  a  very  curious  trail,  and  a  very  disagree- 
able smell  in  stirring  up  the  mud,  as  we  sank  above  the  knee  at  every 
step.  The  water  here  was  still  fresh,  with  only  an  insipid  and  dis- 
agreeable taste,  probably  derived  from  the  bed  of  fetid  mud.  After 
proceeding  in  this  way  about  a  mile,  we  came  to  a  small  black  ridge 
on  the  bottom,  beyond  which  the  water  became  suddenly  salt,  be- 
ginning gradually  to  deepen,  and  the  bottom  was  sandy  and  firm. 
It  was  a  remarkable  division,  separating  the  fresh  water  of  the  rivers 
from  the  briny  water  of  the  lake,  which  was  entirely  saturated  with 
common  salt.  Pushing  our  little  vessel  across  the  narrow  boundary, 


504 


we  sprang  on  board,  and  at  length  were  afloat  on  the  waters  of  the 
unknown  sea. 

We  did  not  steer  for  the  mountainous  islands  [Promontory  range 
and  Antelope  Island],  but  directed  our  course  towards  a  lower  one 
[in  between],  which  it  had  been  decided  we  should  first  visit,  the 
summit  of  which  was  formed  like  the  crater  at  the  upper  end  of 
Bear  river  valley.  So  long  as  we  could  touch  the  bottom  with  our 
paddles,  we  were  very  gay;  but  gradually,  as  the  water  deepened, 
we  became  more  still  in  our  frail  batteau  of  gum  cloth  distended 
with  air,  and  with  pasted  seams.  Although  the  day  was  very  calm, 
there  was  a  considerable  swell  on  the  lake;  and  there  were  white 
patches  of  foam  on  the  surface,  which  were  slowly  moving  to 
the  southward,  indicating  the  set  of  a  current  in  that  direction,  and 
recalling  the  recollection  of  the  whirlpool  stories.  The  water  con- 
tinued to  deepen  as  we  advanced;  the  lake  becoming  almost  trans- 
parently clear,  of  an  extremely  beautiful  bright  green  color;  and 
the  spray,  which  was  thrown  into  the  boat  and  over  our  clothes, 
was  directly  converted  into  a  crust  of  common  salt,  which  covered 
also  our  hands  and  arms.  "Captain,"  said  Carson,  who  for  some 
time  had  been  looking  suspiciously  at  some  whitening  appear- 
ances outside  the  nearest  islands,  "what  are  those  yonder? — won't 
you  just  take  a  look  with  the  glass?"  We  ceased  paddling  for  a 
moment,  and  found  them  to  be  the  caps  of  the  waves  that  were 
beginning  to  break  under  the  force  of  a  strong  breeze  that  was 
coming  up  the  lake.  The  form  of  the  boat  seemed  to  be  an  admirable 
one,  and  it  rode  on  the  waves  like  a  water  bird;  but,  at  the  same 
time,  it  was  extremely  slow  in  its  progress.  When  we  were  a  little 
more  than  half  way  across  the  reach,  two  of  the  divisions  between 
the  cylinders  gave  way,  and  it  required  the  constant  use  of  the  bel- 
lows to  keep  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  air.  For  a  long  time  we 
scarcely  seemed  to  approach  our  island,  but  gradually  we  worked 
across  the  rougher  sea  of  the  open  channel,  into  the  smoother  water 
under  the  lee  of  the  island;  and  began  to  discover  that  what  we  took 
for  a  long  row  of  pelicans,  ranged  on  the  beach,  were  only  low 
cliffs  whitened  with  salt  by  the  spray  of  the  waves;  and  about  noon 
we  reached  the  shore,  the  transparency  of  the  water  enabling  us 
to  see  the  bottom  at  a  considerable  depth. 

It  was  a  handsome  broad  beach  where  we  landed,  behind  which 
the  hill,  into  which  the  island  was  gathered,  rose  somewhat  abruptly; 


505 


and  a  point  of  rock  at  one  end  enclosed  it  in  a  sheltering  way;  and 
as  there  was  an  abundance  of  drift  wood  along  the  shore,  it  offered 
us  a  pleasant  encampment.  We  did  not  suffer  our  fragile  boat  to 
touch  the  sharp  rocks;  but,  getting  overboard,  discharged  the  bag- 
gage, and,  lifting  it  gently  out  of  the  water,  carried  it  to  the  upper 
part  of  the  beach,  which  was  composed  of  very  small  fragments  of 
rock. 

Among  the  successive  banks  of  the  beach,  formed  by  the  action  of 
the  waves,  our  attention,  as  we  approached  the  island,  had  been 
attracted  by  one  10  to  20  feet  in  breadth,  of  a  dark -brown  color.  Be- 
ing more  closely  examined,  this  was  found  to  be  composed,  to  the 
depth  of  seven  or  eight  and  twelve  inches,  entirely  of  the  larvae  of 
insects,  or,  in  common  language,  of  the  skins  of  worms,  about  the 
size  of  a  grain  of  oats,  which  had  been  washed  up  by  the  waters  of 
the  lake. 

Alluding  to  this  subject  some  months  afterwards,  when  travelling 
through  a  more  southern  portion  of  this  region,  in  company  with 
Mr.  Joseph  Walker,^^  an  old  hunter,  I  was  informed  by  him,  that, 
wandering  with  a  party  of  men  in  a  mountain  country  east  of  the 
great  Californian  range,  he  surprised  a  party  of  several  Indian  fam- 
ilies encamped  near  a  small  salt  lake,  who  abandoned  their  lodges  at 
his  approach,  leaving  every  thing  behind  them.  Being  in  a  starving 
condition,  they  were  delighted  to  find  in  the  abandoned  lodges  a 
number  of  skin  bags,  containing  a  quantity  of  what  appeared  to  be 
fish,  dried  and  pounded.  On  this  they  made  a  hearty  supper;  and 
were  gathering  around  an  abundant  breakfast  the  next  morning, 
when  Mr.  Walker  discovered  that  it  was  with  these,  or  a  similar 
worm,  that  the  bags  had  been  filled.  The  stomachs  of  the  stout 
trappers  were  not  proof  against  their  prejudices,  and  the  repulsive 
food  was  suddenly  rejected.  Mr.  Walker  had  further  opportunities 
of  seeing  these  worms  used  as  an  article  of  food;  and  I  am  inclined 
to  think  they  are  the  same  as  those  we  saw,  and  appear  to  be  a  prod- 
uct of  the  salt  lakes.  It  may  be  well  to  recall  to  your  mind  that  Mr. 
Walker  was  associated  with  Captain  Bonneville  in  his  expedition  to 
the  Rocky  mountains;  and  has  since  that  time  remained  in  the  coun- 
try, generally  residing  in  some  one  of  the  Snake  villages,  when  not 


55.  Another  allusion  to  Joseph  R.  Walker,  who  would  be  serving  as  a  guide 
on  the  homeward  leg  of  the  present  journey,  from  "The  Lesser  Youta  Lake" 
to  Bent's  Fort,  25  May  to  5  July  1844.  Still  later  he  would  guide  JCF's  third 
expedition  into  California. 

506 


scAif:   /.  loooooo 
The  Great  Salt  Lake 
507 


engaged  in  one  of  his  numerous  trapping  expeditions,  in  which  he 
is  celebrated  as  one  of  the  best  and  bravest  leaders  who  have  ever 
been  in  the  country. 

The  cliffs  and  masses  of  rock  along  the  shore  were  whitened  by 
an  incrustation  of  salt  where  the  waves  dashed  up  against  them ;  and 
the  evaporating  water,  which  had  been  left  in  holes  and  hollows  on 
the  surface  of  the  rocks,  was  covered  with  a  crust  of  salt  about  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  It  appeared  strange  that,  in  the  midst 
of  this  grand  reservoir,  one  of  our  greatest  wants  lately  had  been  salt. 
Exposed  to  be  more  perfectly  dried  in  the  sun,  this  became  very 
white  and  fine,  having  the  usual  flavor  of  very  excellent  common 
salt,  without  any  foreign  taste;  but  only  a  little  was  collected  for 
present  use,  as  there  was  in  it  a  number  of  small  black  insects. 

Carrying  with  us  the  barometer  and  other  instruments,  in  the 
afternoon  we  ascended  to  the  highest  point  of  the  island — a  bare 
rocky  peak,  800  feet  above  the  lake.  Standing  on  the  summit,  we 
enjoyed  an  extended  view  of  the  lake,  enclosed  in  a  basin  of  rugged 
mountains,  which  sometimes  left  marshy  flats  and  extensive  bottoms 
between  them  and  the  shore,  and  in  other  places  came  directly  down 
into  the  water  with  bold  and  precipitous  bluffs.  Following  with  our 
glasses  the  irregular  shores,  we  searched  for  some  indications  of  a 
communication  with  other  bodies  of  water,  or  the  entrance  of  other 
rivers;  but  the  distance  was  so  great  that  we  could  make  out  nothing 
with  certainty.  To  the  southward,  several  peninsular  mountains, 
3,000  or  4,000  feet  high,  entered  the  lake,  appearing,  so  far  as  the 
distance  and  our  position  enabled  us  to  determine,  to  be  connected 
by  flats  and  low  ridges  with  the  mountains  in  the  rear.  Although 
these  are  probably  the  islands  usually  indicated  on  maps  of  this  re- 
gion as  entirely  detached  from  the  shore,  we  have  preferred  to  repre- 
sent them,  in  the  small  map  on  the  preceding  page,  precisely  as  we 
were  enabled  to  sketch  them  on  the  ground,  leaving  their  more  com- 
plete delineation  for  a  future  survey.  The  sketch,  of  which  the  scale 
is  nearly  sixteen  miles  to  an  inch,  is  introduced  only  to  show  clearly 
the  extent  of  our  operations,  which,  it  will  be  remembered,  were 
made  when  the  waters  were  at  their  lowest  stage.  At  the  season  of 
high  waters  in  the  spring,  it  is  probable  that  all  the  marshes  and  low 
grounds  are  overflowed,  and  the  surface  of  the  lake  considerably 
greater.  In  several  places  (which  will  be  indicated  to  you  in  the 
sketch,  by  the  absence  of  the  bordering  mountains)  the  view  was  of 
unlimited  extent — here  and  there  a  rocky  islet  appearing  above  the 

508 


water  at  a  great  distance;  and  beyond,  every  thing  was  vague  and 
undefined.  As  we  looked  over  the  vast  expanse  of  water  spread  out 
beneath  us,  and  strained  our  eyes  along  the  silent  shores  over  which 
hung  so  much  doubt  and  uncertainty,  and  which  were  so  full  of 
interest  to  us,  I  could  hardly  repress  the  almost  irresistible  desire 
to  continue  our  exploration;  but  the  lengthening  snow  on  the  moun- 
tains was  a  plain  indication  of  the  advancing  season,  and  our  frail 
linen  boat  appeared  so  insecure  that  I  was  unwilling  to  trust  our  lives 
to  the  uncertainties  of  the  lake.  I  therefore  unwillingly  resolved  to 
terminate  our  survey  here,  and  remain  satisfied  for  the  present  with 
what  we  had  been  able  to  add  to  the  unknown  geography  of  the 
region.  We  felt  pleasure  also  in  remembering  that  we  were  the  first 
who,  in  the  traditionary  annals  of  the  country,  had  visited  the 
islands,  and  broken,  with  the  cheerful  sound  of  human  voices,  the 
long  solitude  of  the  place.  From  the  point  where  we  were  standing, 
the  ground  fell  ofif  on  every  side  to  the  water,  giving  us  a  perfect 
view  of  the  island,  which  is  twelve  or  thirteen  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence, being  simply  a  rocky  hill,  on  which  there  is  neither  water  nor 
trees  of  any  kind;  although  the  Vremontla  vermicularis ,  which  was 
in  great  abundance,  might  easily  be  mistaken  for  timber  at  a  dis- 
tance. The  plant  seemed  here  to  delight  in  a  congenial  air,  growing 
in  extraordinary  luxuriance  seven  to  eight  feet  high,  and  was  very 
abundant  on  the  upper  parts  of  the  island,  where  it  was  almost  the 
only  plant.  This  is  eminently  a  saline  shrub;  its  leaves  have  a  very 
salt  taste;  and  it  luxuriates  in  saline  soils,  where  it  is  usually  a  charac- 
teristic. It  is  widely  diffused  over  all  this  country.  A  chenopodiaceous 
shrub,  which  is  a  new  species  of  obione,  (O.  rigida,  Torr.  &-  Frem.,) 
was  equally  characteristic  of  the  lower  parts  of  the  island.  These  two 
are  the  striking  plants  of  the  island,  and  belong  to  a  class  of  plants 
which  form  a  prominent  feature  in  the  vegetation  of  this  country. 
On  the  lower  parts  of  the  island,  also,  a  prickly  pear  of  very  large 
size  was  frequent.  On  the  shore,  near  the  water,  was  a  woolly  species 
of  phaca;  and  a  new  species  of  umbelliferous  plant  (leptotcsmia) 
was  scattered  about  in  very  considerable  abundance.  These  consti- 
tuted all  the  vegetation  that  now  appeared  upon  the  island. 

I  accidentally  left  on  the  summit  the  brass  cover  to  the  object  end 
of  my  spy  glass;  and  as  it  will  probably  remain  there  undisturbed 


56.  Atriplex  canescens  (Pursh)  Nutt.  Possibly  the  same  as  Pterochiton 
occidentale  Torr.  &  Frem.,  new  genus,  now  interpreted  as  a  form  of  poly- 
morphic species. 

509 


by  Indians,  it  will  furnish  matter  of  speculation  to  some  future 
traveller.  In  our  excursions  about  the  island,  we  did  not  meet  with 
any  kind  of  animal;  a  magpie,  and  another  larger  bird,  probably 
attracted  by  the  smoke  of  our  fire,  paid  us  a  visit  from  the  shore,  and 
were  the  only  living  things  seen  during  our  stay.  The  rock  constitut- 
ing the  cliffs  along  the  shore  where  we  were  encamped,  is  a  talcous 
rock,  or  steatite,  with  brown  spar. 

At  sunset,  the  temperature  was  70°.  We  had  arrived  just  in  time 
to  obtain  a  meridian  altitude  of  the  sun,  and  other  observations  were 
obtained  this  evening,  which  place  our  camp  in  latitude  41°  10' 42", 
and  longitude  112°  21' 05"  from  Greenwich.  From  a  discussion  of 
the  barometrical  observations  made  during  our  stay  on  the  shores 
of  the  lake,  we  have  adopted  4,200  feet  for  its  elevation  above  the 
gulf  of  Mexico.  In  the  first  disappointment  we  felt  from  the  dissipa- 
tion of  our  dream  of  the  fertile  islands,  I  called  this  Disappointment 
island.^"' 

Out  of  the  drift  wood,  we  made  ourselves  pleasant  little  lodges, 
open  to  the  water,  and,  after  having  kindled  large  fires  to  excite  the 
wonder  of  any  straggling  savage  on  the  lake  shores,  lay  down,  for 
the  first  time  in  a  long  journey,  in  perfect  security;  no  one  thinking 
about  his  arms.  The  evening  was  extremely  bright  and  pleasant;  but 
the  wind  rose  during  the  night,  and  the  waves  began  to  break 
heavily  on  the  shore,  making  our  island  tremble.  I  had  not  expected 
in  our  inland  journey  to  hear  the  roar  of  an  ocean  surf;  and  the 
strangeness  of  our  situation,  and  the  excitement  we  felt  in  the  asso- 
ciated interests  of  the  place,  made  this  one  of  the  most  interesting 
nights  I  remember  during  our  long  expedition. 

In  the  morning,  the  surf  was  breaking  heavily  on  the  shore,  and 
we  were  up  early.  The  lake  was  dark  and  agitated,  and  we  hurried 
through  our  scanty  breakfast,  and  embarked — having  first  filled 
one  of  the  buckets  with  water  from  the  lake,  of  which  it  was  in- 
tended to  make  salt.  The  sun  had  risen  by  the  time  we  were  ready 


57.  Howard  Stansbury  gave  the  island  its  present  name,  Fremont  Island, 
when  he  surveyed  it  in  1850,  "in  honor  of  him  who  first  set  foot  upon  its 
shore"  (stansbury,  159).  He  also  came  upon  a  cross  carved  under  a  "shelving 
rock"  near  the  summit  of  the  island,  but  did  not  know  who  had  placed  it  there. 
It  proved  to  be  the  work  of  Carson  and  perhaps  Bernier,  passing  the  time 
while  ICF  and  Preuss  were  mapping  (carson,  88).  The  cap  of  the  telescope 
was  found  by  Jacob  Miller  during  the  1860s  while  he  was  using  the  island 
as  a  sheep  range.  For  another  account  of  JCF  in  the  Great  Salt  Lake  region, 

see  MILLER. 

510 


to  start;  and  it  was  blowing  a  strong  gale  of  wind,  almost  directly 
off  the  shore,  and  raising  a  considerable  sea,  in  which  our  boat 
strained  very  much.  It  roughened  as  we  got  away  from  the  island, 
and  it  required  all  the  efforts  of  the  men  to  make  any  head  against 
the  wind  and  sea;  the  gale  rising  with  the  sun,  and  there  was  danger 
of  being  blown  into  one  of  the  open  reaches  beyond  the  island.  At 
the  distance  of  half  a  mile  from  the  beach,  the  depth  of  water  was 
16  feet,  with  a  clay  bottom;  but,  as  the  working  of  the  boat  was  very 
severe  labor,  and  during  the  operation  of  rounding  it  was  necessary 
to  cease  paddling,  during  which  the  boat  lost  considerable  way,  I 
was  unwilling  to  discourage  the  men,  and  reluctantly  gave  up  my 
intention  of  ascertaining  the  depth,  and  the  character  of  the  bed. 
There  was  a  general  shout  in  the  boat  when  we  found  ourselves  in 
one  fathom,  and  we  soon  after  landed  on  a  low  point  of  mud,  im- 
mediately under  the  biitte  of  the  peninsula,  where  we  unloaded  the 
boat,  and  carried  the  baggage  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  firmer 
ground.  We  arrived  just  in  time  for  meridian  observation,  and  car- 
ried the  barometer  to  the  summit  of  the  butte,  which  is  500  feet 
above  the  lake.  Mr.  Preuss  set  ofT  on  foot  for  the  camp,  which  was 
about  nine  miles  distant;  Basil  accompanying  him,  to  bring  back 
horses  for  the  boat  and  baggage. 

The  rude-looking  shelter  we  raised  on  the  shore,  our  scattered 
baggage  and  boat  lying  on  the  beach,  made  quite  a  picture;  and  we 
called  this  the  Fisherman's  camp.  Lynosiris  graveolens,  and  another 
new  species  of  obione,  (O.  confertifolia — Ton.  &  Frem.,)  were 
growing  on  the  low  grounds,  with  interspersed  spots  of  an  unwhole- 
some salt  grass,  on  a  saline  clay  soil,  with  a  few  other  plants. 

The  horses  arrived  late  in  the  afternoon,  by  which  time  the  gale 
had  increased  to  such  a  height  that  a  man  could  scarcely  stand  before 
it;  and  we  were  obliged  to  pack  our  baggage  hastily,  as  the  rising 
water  of  the  lake  had  already  reached  the  point  where  we  were  halted. 
Looking  back  as  we  rode  off,  we  found  the  place  of  recent  encamp- 
ment entirely  covered.  The  low  plain  through  which  we  rode  to  the 
camp  was  covered  with  a  compact  growth  of  shrubs  of  extraordinary 
size  and  luxuriance.  The  soil  was  sandy  and  saline;  flat  places,  re- 
sembling the  beds  of  ponds,  that  were  bare  of  vegetation,  and 
covered  with  a  powdery  white  salts,  being  interspersed  among  the 
shrubs.  Artemisia  tridentata  was  very  abundant,  but  the  plants  were 
principally  saline;  a  large  and  vigorous  chenopodiaceous  shrub,  five 
to  eight  feet  high,  being  characteristic,  with  Fremontia  vermicularis, 

511 


and  a  shrubby  plant  which  seems  to  be  a  new  saliconiia.  We  reached 
the  camp  in  time  to  escape  a  thunder  storm  which  blackened  the 
sky,  and  were  received  with  a  discharge  of  the  howitzer  by  the 
people,  who,  having  been  unable  to  see  any  thing  of  us  on  the  lake, 
had  begun  to  feel  some  uneasiness. 

September  11. — To-day  we  remained  at  this  camp,  in  order  to  ob- 
tain some  further  observations,  and  to  boil  down  the  water  which 
had  been  brought  from  the  lake,  for  a  supply  of  salt.  Roughly  evap- 
orated over  the  fire,  the  five  gallons  of  water  yielded  fourteen  pints 
of  very  fine-grained  and  very  white  salt,  of  which  the  whole  lake 
may  be  regarded  as  a  saturated  solution.  A  portion  of  the  salt  thus 
obtained  has  been  subjected  to  analysis — giving,  in  100  parts,  the 
following  proportions : 


Analysis  of  the  salt. 

Chloride  of  sodium,  (common  salt)  . 

97.80 

Chloride   of   calcium 

0.61 

Chloride  of  magnesium 

0.24 

Sulphate  of  soda          .... 

0.23 

Sulphate  of  lime         .... 

1.12 

100.00 

58 


Glancing  your  eye  along  the  map,  you  will  see  a  small  stream 
entering  the  Utah  lake,  south  of  the  Spanish  fork,  and  the  first 
waters  of  that  lake  which  our  road  of  1844  crosses  in  coming  up 
from  the  southward.  When  I  was  on  this  stream  with  Mr.  Walker 
in  that  year,  he  informed  me  that  on  the  upper  part  of  the  river  are 
immense  beds  of  rock  salt  of  very  great  thickness,  which  he  had  fre- 
quently visited.  Farther  to  the  southward,  the  rivers  which  are  af- 
fluent to  the  Colorado,  such  as  the  Rio  Virgen,  and  Gila  river,  near 
the  mouths,  are  impregnated  with  salt  by  the  cliffs  of  rock  salt  be- 
tween which  they  pass.  These  mines  occur  in  the  same  ridge  in 
which,  about  120  miles  to  the  northward,  and  subsequently  in  their 
more  immediate  neighborhood,  we  discovered  the  fossils  belonging 
to  the  oolitic  period,  and  they  are  probably  connected  with  that 
formation,  and  are  the  deposite  from  which  the  Great  Lake  obtains 


58.  The  stream  he  mentions  is  Salt  Creek.  JCF's  mapping  in  this  area  is  not 
his  best.  The  most  notorious  error  of  his  map,  for  this  region,  is  the  "depiction 
of  Utah  Lake  as  an  arm  of  Great  Salt  Lake.  For  his  speculations  on  the 
nature  of  Utah  Lake,  see  pp.  694  and  698. 

512 


its  salt.  Had  we  remained  longer,  we  should  have  found  them  in  its 
bed,  and  in  the  mountains  around  its  shores. 

By  observation,  the  latitude  of  this  camp  is  41°  15' 50",  and  longi- 
tude 112°  06' 43". 

The  observations  made  during  our  stay  give  for  the  rate  of  the 
chronometer  31".72,  corresponding  almost  exactly  with  the  rate 
obtained  at  St.  Vrain's  fort.  Barometrical  observations  were  made 
hourly  during  the  dav.  This  morning  we  breakfasted  on  yampah, 
and  had  only  kamas  for  supper;  but  a  cup  of  good  coffee  still  dis- 
tinguished us  from  our  Digger  acquaintances. 

September  12. — The  morning  was  clear  and  calm,  with  a  tempera- 
ture at  sunrise  of  32°.  We  resumed  our  journey  late  in  the  day,  re- 
turning by  nearly  the  same  route  which  we  had  travelled  in  coming 
to  the  lake;  and,  avoiding  the  passage  of  Hawthorn  creek,  struck  the 
hills  a  little  below  the  hot  salt  springs.  The  flat  plain  we  had  here 
passed  over  consisted  alternately  of  tolerably  good  sandy  soil  and  of 
saline  plats.  We  encamped  early  on  Clear  creek,  at  the  foot  of  the 
high  ridge;  one  of  the  peaks  of  which  we  ascertained  by  measure- 
ment to  be  4,210  feet  above  the  lake,  or  about  8,400  feet  above  the 
sea.  Behind  these  front  peaks  the  ridge  rises  towards  the  Bear  river 
[Wasatch]  mountains,  which  are  probably  as  high  as  the  Wind  river 
chain.  This  creek  is  here  unusually  well  timbered  with  a  variety  of 
trees.  Among  them  were  birch  {betula,)  the  narrow-leaved  poplar 
{populus  angustijolia)  several  kinds  of  willow  (salix,)  hawthorn 
(Crataegus,)  alder  {alntts  viridis,)  and  cerasus,  with  an  oak  allied  to 
qiiercus  alba^^  but  very  distinct  from  that  or  any  other  species  in  the 
United  States. 

We  had  to-night  a  supper  of  sea  gulls,  which  Carson  killed  near 
the  lake.  Although  cool,  the  thermometer  standing  at  47°,  mus- 
quitoes  were  sufficiently  numerous  to  be  troublesome  this  evening. 

September  13. — Continuing  up  the  river  valley,  we  crossed  sev- 
eral small  streams;  the  mountains  on  the  right  appearing  to  consist 
of  the  blue  limestone,  which  we  had  observed  in  the  same  ridge  to 
the  northward,  alternating  here  with  a  granular  quartz  already 
mentioned.  One  of  these  streams,  which  forms  a  smaller  lake  near 
the  river,  was  broken  up  into  several  channels;  and  the  irrigated 
bottom  of  fertile  soil  was  covered  with  innumerable  flowers,  among 


59.  Ouercus  utahensis  (A.  DC.)  Rydb.  He  has  evidently  ascended  Weber 
River  far  enough  to  head  First  Salt  Creek,  then  traveled  northeast  toward 
Utah  Hot  Springs,  passing  present  Plain  City. 


which  were  purple  fields  of  eupatorium  purpureum,  with  helianthi, 
a  handsome  solidago  {S.  canade?isis,)  and  a  variety  of  other  plants 
in  bloom.  Continuing  along  the  foot  of  the  hills,  in  the  afternoon 
we  found  five  or  six  hot  springs  gushing  out  together,  beneath  a 
conglomerate,  consisting  principally  of  fragments  of  a  grayish-blue 
limestone,  efflorescing  a  salt  upon  the  surface.  The  temperature  of 
these  springs  was  134°,  and  the  rocks  in  the  bed  were  colored  with  a 
red  deposite,  and  there  was  common  salt  crystallized  on  the  margin. 
There  was  also  a  white  incrustation  upon  leaves  and  roots,  consisting 
principally  of  carbonate  of  lime.  There  were  rushes  seen  along  the 
road  this  afternoon,  and  the  soil  under  the  hills  was  very  black,  and 
apparently  very  good;  but  at  this  time  the  grass  is  entirely  dried  up. 
We  encamped  on  Bear  river,  immediately  below  a  cut-oflF,  the  canon 
by  which  the  river  enters  this  valley  bearing  north  by  compass.  The 
night  was  mild,  with  a  very  clear  sky;  and  I  obtained  a  very  excel- 
lent observation  of  an  occultation  of  Tau.^  Arietis,  with  other  observa- 
tions. Both  immersion  and  emersion  of  the  star  were  observed ;  but, 
as  our  observations  have  shown,  the  phase  at  the  bright  limb  gen- 
erally gives  incorrect  longitudes,  and  we  have  adopted  the  result  ob- 
tained from  the  emersion  at  the  dark  limb,  without  allowing  any 
weight  to  the  immersion.  According  to  these  observations,  the  longi- 
tude is  112°  05'  12",  and  the  latitude  41°  42' 43".  All  the  longitudes 
on  the  line  of  our  outward  journey,  between  St.  Vrain's  fort  and  the 
Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  which  were  not  directly  determined  by 
satellites,  have  been  chronometrically  referred  to  this  place. 

The  people  to-day  were  rather  low-spirited,  hunger  making  them 
very  quiet  and  peaceable;  and  there  was  rarely  an  oath  to  be  heard 
in  the  camp — not  even  a  solitary  enfant  de  garce.  It  was  time  for  the 
men  with  an  expected  supply  of  provisions  from  Fitzpatrick  to  be  in 
the  neighborhood;  and  the  gun  was  fired  at  evening,  to  give  them 
notice  of  our  locality,  but  met  with  no  response. 

September  14. — About  four  miles  from  this  encampment,  the  trail 
led  us  down  to  the  river,  where  we  unexpectedly  found  an  excellent 
ford — the  stream  being  widened  by  an  island,  and  not  yet  disen- 
gaged from  the  hills  at  the  foot  of  the  range.  We  encamped  on  a 
little  creek  where  we  had  made  a  noon  halt  in  descending  the  river. 
The  night  was  very  clear  and  pleasant,  the  sunset  temperature  being 
67°. 

The  people  this  evening  looked  so  forlorn,  that  I  gave  them  per- 
mission to  kill  a  fat  young  horse  which  I  had  purchased  with  goods 

514 


from  the  Snake  Indians,  and  they  were  very  soon  restored  to  gayety 
and  good  humor.  Mr.  Preuss  and  myself  could  not  yet  overcome 
some  remains  of  civilized  prejudices,  and  preferred  to  starve  a  little 
longer;  feeling  as  much  saddened  as  if  a  crime  had  been  committed. 

The  next  day  we  continued  up  the  valley,  the  soil  being  sometimes 
very  black  and  good,  occasionally  gravelly,  and  occasionally  a  kind 
of  naked  salt  plains.  We  found  on  the  way  this  morning  a  small 
encampment  of  two  families  of  Snake  Indians,  from  whom  we  pur- 
chased a  small  quantity  of  kpoyah.  They  had  piles  of  seeds,  of  three 
different  kinds,  spread  out  upon  pieces  of  buffalo  robe;  and  the 
squaws  had  just  gathered  about  a  bushel  of  the  roots  of  a  thistle, 
{circium  Virginianum.)  They  were  about  the  ordinary  size  of  car* 
rots,  and,  as  I  have  previously  mentioned,  are  sweet  and  well  fla- 
vored, requiring  only  a  long  preparation.  They  had  a  band  of 
twelve  or  fifteen  horses,  and  appeared  to  be  growing  in  the  sunshine 
with  about  as  little  labor  as  the  plants  they  were  eating. 

Shortly  afterwards  we  met  an  Indian  on  horseback  who  had  killed 
an  antelope,  which  we  purchased  from  him  for  a  little  powder  and 
some  balls.  We  crossed  the  Roseaux,  and  encamped  on  the  left  bank ; 
halting  early  for  the  pleasure  of  enjoying  a  wholesome  and  abun- 
dant supper,  and  were  pleasantly  engaged  in  protracting  our  unusual 
comfort,  when  Tabeau  galloped  into  the  camp  with  news  that  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick  was  encamped  close  by  us,  with  a  good  supply  of  pro- 
visions— flour,  rice,  and  dried  meat,  and  even  a  little  butter.  Excite- 
ment to-night  made  us  all  wakeful;  and  after  a  breakfast  before 
sunrise  the  next  morning,  we  were  again  on  the  road,  and,  contin- 
uing up  the  valley,  crossed  some  high  points  of  hills,  and  halted  to 
noon  on  the  same  stream,  near  several  lodges  of  Snake  Indians,  from 
whom  we  purchased  about  a  bushel  of  service  berries,  partially  dried. 
By  the  gift  of  a  knife,  I  prevailed  upon  a  little  boy  to  show  me  the 
kpoyah  plant,  which  proved  to  be  Valeriana  edulis.  The  root,  which 
constitutes  the  kooyah,  is  large,  of  a  very  bright  yellow  color,  with 
the  characteristic  odor,  but  not  so  fully  developed  as  in  the  prepared 
substance.  It  loves  the  rich  moist  soil  of  river  bottoms,  which  was 
the  locality  in  which  I  always  afterwards  found  it.  It  was  now  en- 
tirely out  of  bloom ;  according  to  my  observation,  flowering  in  the 
months  of  May  and  June.  In  the  afternoon  we  entered  a  long  ravine 
leading  to  a  pass  in  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  waters  of  Bear 
river  and  the  Snake  river,  or  Lewis's  fork  of  the  Columbia;  our  way 
being  very  much  impeded,  and  almost  entirely  blocked  up,  by  com- 

515 


pact  fields  of  luxuriant  artemisia.  Taking  leave  at  this  point  of  the 
waters  of  Bear  river,  and  of  the  geographical  basin  which  encloses 
the  system  of  rivers  and  creeks  which  belong  to  the  Great  Salt  Lake, 
and  which  so  richly  deserves  a  future  detailed  and  ample  explora- 
tion, I  can  say  of  it,  in  general  terms,  that  the  bottoms  of  this  river, 
(Bear,)  and  some  of  the  creeks  which  I  saw,  form  a  natural  resting 
and  recruiting  station  for  travellers,  now,  and  in  all  time  to  come. 
The  bottoms  are  extensive;  water  excellent;  timber  sufficient;  the 
soil  good,  and  well  adapted  to  the  grains  and  grasses  suited  to  such 
an  elevated  region.  A  military  post,  and  a  civilized  settlement, 
would  be  of  great  value  here;  and  cattle  and  horses  would  do  well 
where  grass  and  salt  so  much  abound.  The  lake  will  furnish  ex- 
haustless  supplies  of  salt.  All  the  mountain  sides  here  are  covered 
with  a  valuable  nutritious  grass,  called  bunch  grass,  from  the  form 
in  which  it  grows,  which  has  a  second  growth  in  the  fall.  The  beasts 
of  the  Indians  were  fat  upon  it;  our  own  found  it  a  good  subsistence; 
and  its  quantity  will  sustain  any  amount  of  cattle,  and  make  this 
truly  a  bucolic  region.^" 

We  met  here  an  Indian  family  on  horseback,  which  had  been  out 
to  gather  service  berries,  and  were  returning  loaded.  This  tree  was 
scattered  about  on  the  hills ;  and  the  upper  part  of  the  pass  was  tim- 
bered with  aspen;  {populus  trem.,)  the  common  blue  flowering 
flax  occurring  among  the  plants.  The  approach  to  the  pass  was  very 
steep ;  and  the  summit  about  6,300  feet  above  the  sea — probably  only 
an  uncertain  approximation,  as  at  the  time  of  observation  it  was 
blowing  a  violent  gale  of  wind  from  the  northwest,  with  cumuli 
scattered  in  masses  over  the  sky,  the  day  otherwise  bright  and  clear. 
We  descended,  by  a  steep  slope,  into  a  broad  open  valley — good  soil; 
from  four  to  five  miles  wide;  coming  down  immediately  upon  one 
of  the  head-waters  of  the  Pannack  [Bannock]  river,  which  here  loses 
itself  in  swampy  ground.  The  appearance  of  the  country  here  is  not 
very  interesting.  On  either  side  is  a  regular  range  of  mountains  of  the 
usual  character,  with  a  little  timber,  tolerably  rocky  on  the  right, 
and  higher  and  more  smooth  on  the  left,  with  still  higher  peaks 
looking  out  above  the  range.  The  valley  afforded  a  good  level  road; 


60.  JCF's  remarks  on  the  attractions  of  the  Bear  River  had  a  great  influence 
on  the  Mormons  in  Nauvoo,  1845-46,  when  they  considered  a  possible  place 
for  settlement.  Also,  when  the  government  sent  the  Regiment  of  Mounted 
Riflemen  west  in  1849,  it  was  originally  thought  the  regiment  would  establish 
itself  on  Bear  River.  Instead,  they  built  Cantonment  Loring  near  Fort  Hall. 

516 


but  it  was  late  when  it  brought  us  to  water,  and  we  encamped  at 
dark.  The  northwest  wind  had  blown  up  very  cold  weather,  and  the 
artemisia,  which  was  our  fire  wood  to-night,  did  not  happen  to  be 
very  abundant.  This  plant  loves  a  dry,  sandy  soil,  and  cannot  grow 
in  the  good  bottoms  where  it  is  rich  and  moist,  but  on  every  little 
eminence,  where  water  does  not  rest  long,  it  maintains  absolute  pos- 
session. Elevation  above  the  sea  about  5,100  feet. 

At  night  scattered  fires  glimmered  along  the  mountains,  pointing 
out  camps  of  the  Indians;  and  we  contrasted  the  comparative  se- 
curity in  which  we  travelled  through  this  country,  with  the  guarded 
vigilance  we  were  compelled  to  exert  among  the  Sioux  and  other 
Indians  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 

At  sunset  the  thermometer  was  at  50°,  and  at  midnight  at  30°. 

September  17. — The  morning  sky  was  calm  and  clear,  the  temper- 
ature at  daylight  being  25°,  and  at  sunrise  20°.  There  is  throughout 
this  mountain  country  a  remarkable  difference  between  the  morning 
and  midday  temperatures,  which  at  this  season  was  very  generally 
40°  or  50°,  and  occasionally  greater;  and  frequently,  after  a  very 
frosty  morning,  the  heat  in  a  few  hours  would  render  the  thinnest 
clothing  agreeable.  About  noon  we  reached  the  main  fork.  The 
Pannack  [Bannock]  river  was  before  us;  the  valley  being  here  \\ 
mile  wide,  fertile,  and  bordered  by  smooth  hills,  not  over  500  feet 
high,  partly  covered  with  cedar;  a  high  ridge,  in  which  there  is  a 
prominent  peak,  rising  behind  those  on  the  left.  We  continued  to 
descend  this  stream,  and  found  on  it  at  night  a  warm  and  com- 
fortable camp.  Flax  occurred  so  frequently  during  the  day  as  to  be 
almost  a  characteristic,  and  the  soil  appeared  excellent.  The  opposite 
hills  on  the  right  are  broken  here  into  a  great  variety  of  shapes.  The 
evening  was  gusty,  with  a  temperature  at  sunset  of  59°.  I  obtained, 
about  midnight,  an  observation  of  an  emersion  of  the  first  satellite; 
the  night  being  calm  and  very  clear,  the  stars  remarkably  bright, 
and  the  thermometer  at  30°.  Longitude,  from  mean  of  satellite  and 
chronometer,  112°  29' 52";  and  latitude,  by  observation,  42°  44' 40". 

September  18. — The  day  clear  and  calm,  with  a  temperature  of 
25°  at  sunrise.  After  travelling  seven  or  eight  miles,  we  emerged  on 
the  plains  of  the  Columbia,  in  sight  of  the  famous  "Three  Buttes," 
a  well-known  landmark  in  the  country,  distant  about  45  miles.  The 
French  word  butte,  which  so  often  occurs  in  this  narrative,  is  re- 
tained from  the  familiar  language  of  the  country,  and  identifies  the 
objects  to  which  it  refers.  It  is  naturalized  in  the  region  of  the  Rocky 


mountains;  and,  even  if  desirable  to  render  it  in  English,  I  know  of 
no  word  which  would  be  its  precise  equivalent.  It  is  applied  to  the 
detached  hills  and  ridges  which  rise  abruptly,  and  reach  too  high  to 
be  called  hills  or  ridges,  and  not  high  enough  to  be  called  moun- 
tains. Knob,  as  applied  in  the  western  States,  is  the  most  descriptive 
term  in  English.  Cerro  is  the  Spanish  term;  but  no  translation,  or 
paraphrasis,  would  preserve  the  identity  of  these  picturesque  land- 
marks, familiar  to  the  traveller,  and  often  seen  at  a  great  distance. 
Covered  as  far  as  could  be  seen  with  artemisia,  the  dark  and  ugly 
appearance  of  this  plain  obtained  for  it  the  name  of  the  Sage  Desert; 
and  we  were  agreeably  surprised,  on  reaching  the  Portneuf  river, 
to  see  a  beautiful  green  valley  with  scattered  timber  spread  out  be- 
neath us,  on  which,  about  four  miles  distant,  were  glistening  the 
white  walls  of  the  fort.  The  Portneuf  runs  along  the  upland  plain 
nearly  to  its  mouth,  and  an  abrupt  descent  of  perhaps  200  feet 
brought  us  down  immediately  upon  the  stream,  which  at  the  ford  is 
100  yards  wide  and  3  feet  deep,  with  clear  water,  a  swift  current, 
and  gravelly  bed;  but  a  little  higher  up  the  breadth  was  only  about 
35  yards,  with  apparently  deep  water. 

In  the  bottom  I  remarked  a  very  great  number  of  springs  and 
sloughs,  with  remarkably  clear  water  and  gravel  beds.  At  sunset 
we  encamped  with  Mr.  Talbot  and  our  friends,  who  come  on  to 
Fort  Hall  when  we  went  to  the  lake,  and  whom  we  had  the  satisfac- 
tion to  find  all  well,  neither  party  having  met  with  any  mischance 
in  the  interval  of  our  separation.  They,  too,  had  had  their  share  of 
fatigue  and  scanty  provisions,  as  there  had  been  very  little  game  left 
on  the  trail  of  the  populous  emigration;  and  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  had 
rigidly  husbanded  our  stock  of  flour  and  light  provisions,  in  view  of 
the  approaching  winter  and  the  long  journey  before  us. 

September  19. — This  morning  the  sky  was  very  dark  and  gloomy, 
and  at  daylight  it  began  snowing  thickly,  and  continued  all  day, 
with  cold,  disagreeable  weather.  At  sunrise  the  temperature  was  43°. 
I  rode  up  to  the  fort,  and  purchased  from  Mr.  Grant*'^  (the  officer  in 
charge  of  the  post)  several  very  indifferent  horses,  and  five  oxen  in 


61.  Born  in  Montreal,  Richard  Grant  (1794-1862)  spent  his  life  in  the  fur 
trade.  After  twenty  years  in  the  Saskatchewan,  Athabasca,  and  Peace  River 
districts,  he  was  transferred  to  the  Columbia  River  district  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  and  took  charge  of  the  post  at  Fort  Hall.  He  served  there  until 
1851.  The  fort  was  located  at  a  bend  of  the  Snake  near  the  junction  of  the 


518 


very  fine  order,  which  were  received  at  the  camp  with  great  satisfac- 
tion; and,  one  being  killed  at  evening,  the  usual  gayety  and  good  hu- 
mor were  at  once  restored.  Night  came  in  stormy. 

September  20. — We  had  a  night  of  snow  and  rain,  and  the  ther- 
mometer at  sunrise  was  at  34° ;  the  morning  was  dark,  with  a  steady 
rain,  and  there  was  still  an  inch  of  snow  on  the  ground,  with  an 
abundance  on  the  neighboring  hills  and  mountains.  The  sudden 
change  in  the  weather  was  hard  for  our  animals,  who  trembled  and 
shivered  in  the  cold — sometimes  taking  refuge  in  the  timber,  and 
now  and  then  coming  out  and  raking  the  snow  off  the  ground  for 
a  little  grass,  or  eating  the  young  willows. 

September  21. — Ice  made  tolerably  thick  during  the  night,  and  in 
the  morning  the  weather  cleared  up  very  bright,  with  a  temperature 
at  sunrise  of  29° ;  and  I  obtained  a  meridian  observation  for  latitude 
at  the  fort,  with  observations  for  time.  The  sky  was  again  covered 
in  the  afternoon,  and  the  thermometer  at  sunset  48°. 

September  22. — The  morning  was  cloudy  and  unpleasant,  and  at 
sunrise  a  cold  rain  commenced,  with  a  temperature  of  41  . 

The  early  approach  of  winter,  and  the  difficulty  of  supporting  a 
large  party,  determined  me  to  send  back  a  number  of  the  men  who 
had  become  satisfied  that  they  were  not  fitted  for  the  laborious  ser- 
vice and  frequent  privation  to  which  they  were  necessarily  exposed, 
and  which  there  was  reason  to  believe  would  become  more  severe  in 
the  further  extension  of  the  voyage.  I  accordingly  called  them  to- 
gether, and,  informing  them  of  my  intention  to  continue  our  jour- 
ney during  the  ensuing  winter,  in  the  course  of  which  they  would 
probably  be  exposed  to  considerable  hardship,  succeeded  in  prevail- 
ing upon  a  number  of  them  to  return  voluntarily.  These  were: 

Blackfoot  and  Portneuf  rivers,  on  what  is  now  the  Fort  Hall  Indian  Reserva- 
tion. It  had  been  an  important  port  of  call  on  the  route  to  Oregon  since  1834, 
when  it  was  estabHshed  by  Nathaniel  Wyeth.  Visitors  wishing  to  go  to  the  site 
might  well  consider  a  more  comfortable  alternative:  a  replica  of  the  estab- 
lishment located  on  the  upper  level  of  Ross  Park  in  Pocatello,  Idaho.  The 
actual  site  lies  on  the  reservation,  occupied  by  Shoshoni  and  Bannock  tribes, 
above  the  American  Falls  Reservoir.  A  stone  marker  and  bronze  plaque  mark 
the  location,  reached  by  driving  first  to  the  agency  headquarters  at  Fort  Hall, 
then  west  over  a  succession  of  progressively  less  improved  roads,  to  an  area 
of  wild  hay  fields  long  known  as  the  Bottoms.  Visitors  to  the  site  are  mainly 
duck  hunters.  In  May  1968,  when  Dr.  Tom  Stevens,  the  Fort  Hall  agency 
physician,  made  a  sketch  map  to  direct  the  senior  editor  to  the  site,  one  of 
the  instructions  he  set  down  was  "turn  right  at  cow's  skull  on  post." 


519 


Charles  [Clinton]  De  Forrest,  Henry  Lee,  J.  Campbell,  Wm.  Creuss, 
A.  Vasquez,  A.  Pera,  Patrick  White,  B,  Tesson,  M.  Creely,  Francois 
Lajeunesse,  Basil  Lajeunesse.  Among  these,  I  regretted  very  much  to 
lose  Basil  Lajeunesse,  one  of  the  best  men  in  my  party,  who  was 
obliged,  by  the  condition  of  his  family,  to  be  at  home  in  the  coming 
winter.  Our  preparations  having  been  completed  in  the  interval  of 
our  stay  here,  both  parties  were  ready  this  morning  to  resume  their 
respective  routes.  " 

Except  that  there  is  a  greater  quantity  of  wood  used  in  its  con- 
struction, Fort  Hall  very  much  resembles  the  other  trading  posts 
which  have  been  already  described  to  you,  and  would  be  another 
excellent  post  of  relief  for  the  emigration.  It  is  in  the  low,  rich  bot- 
tom of  a  valley,  apparently  20  miles  long,  formed  by  the  confluence 
of  Portneuf  river  with  Lewis's  fork  of  the  Columbia,  which  it  enters 
about  nine  miles  below  the  fort,  and  narrowing  gradually  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Pannack  river,  where  it  has  a  breadth  of  only  two  or 
three  miles.  Allowing  50  miles  for  the  road  from  the  Beer  springs  of 
Bear  river  to  Fort  Hall,  its  distance  along  the  travelled  road  from  the 
town  of  Westport,  on  the  frontier  of  Missouri,  by  way  of  Fort  Lara- 
mie and  the  great  South  Pass,  is  1,323  miles.  Beyond  this  place,  on 
the  line  of  road  along  the  barren  valley  of  the  Upper  Columbia, 
there  does  not  occur,  for  a  distance  of  nearly  three  hundred  miles  to 
the  westward,  a  fertile  spot  of  ground  sufficiently  large  to  produce 
the  necessary  quantity  of  grain,  or  pasturage  enough  to  allow  even 
a  temporary  repose  to  the  emigrants.  On  their  recent  passage,  they  had 
been  able  to  obtain,  at  very  high  prices  and  in  insufficient  quantity, 
only  such  assistance  as  could  be  afforded  by  a  small  and  remote 
trading  post — and  that  a  foreign  one — which,  in  the  supply  of  its 
own  wants,  had  necessarily  drawn  around  it  some  of  the  resources  of 
civilization,  but  which  obtained  nearly  all  its  supplies  from  the  dis- 
tant depot  of  Vancouver,  by  a  difficult  water  carriage  of  250  miles  up 
the  Columbia  river,  and  a  land  carriage  by  pack  horses  of  600  miles. 
An  American  military  post  sufficiently  strong  to  give  to  their  road  a 
perfect  security  against  the  Indian  tribes,  who  are  unsettled  in  lo- 
cality and  very  uncertain  in  their  disposition,  and  which,  with  the 
necessary  facilities  for  the  repair  of  their  equipage,  would  be  able  to 
afford  them  relief  in  stock  and  grain  from  the  produce  of  the  post. 


62.  The  party  bound  for  St.  Louis  was  mounted  and  had  guns  and  twelve 
days'  provisions  to  take  them  into  buffalo  country  (talbot,  51). 

520 


would  be  of  extraordinary  value  to  the  emigration.  Such  a  post  (and 
all  others  which  may  be  established  on  the  line  to  Oregon)  would 
naturally  form  the  nucleus  of  a  settlement,  at  which  supplies  and 
repose  would  be  obtained  by  the  emigrant,  or  trading  caravans, 
which  may  hereafter  traverse  these  elevated,  and,  in  many  places, 
desolate  and  inhospitable  regions. 

I  subjoin  an  analysis  of  the  soil  in  the  river  bottom  near  Fort  Hall, 
which  will  be  of  assistance  in  enabling  you  to  form  some  correct 
idea  of  its  general  character  in  the  neighboring  country.  I  charac- 
terize it  as  good  land,  but  the  analysis  will  show  its  precise  proper- 
ties. 


Analysis  c 

/  soil 

1 

Silica 68.55 

Alumina 

7.45 

Carbonate  of  lime 

8.51 

Carbonate  of  magnesia 

5.09 

Oxide  of  iron 

1.40 

Organic  vegetable  matter 

4.74 

Water  and  loss     . 

4.26 

100.00 

Our  observations  place  this  post  in  longitude  112°  29' 54",  latitude 
43°  or  30",  and  in  elevation  above  the  sea  4,500  feet. 

Taking  leave  of  the  homeward  party,  we  resumed  our  journey 
down  the  valley,  the  weather  being  very  cold,  and  the  rain  coming 
in  hard  gusts,  which  the  wind  blew  directly  in  our  faces.  We  forded 
the  Portneuf  in  a  storm  of  rain,  the  water  in  the  river  being  fre- 
quently up  to  the  axles,  and  about  110  yards  wide.  After  the  gust, 
the  weather  improved  a  litde,  and  we  encamped  about  three  miles 
below,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pannack  river,  on  Lewis's  fork,  which 
here  has  a  breadth  of  about  120  yards.  The  temperature  at  sunset  was 
42°;  the  sky  partially  covered  with  dark,  rainy  clouds. 

September  23. — The  temperature  at  sunrise  was  32°;  the  morning 
dark,  and  snow  falling  steadily  and  thickly,  with  a  light  air  from 
the  southward.  Profited  of  being  obliged  to  remain  in  camp,  to  take 
hourly  barometrical  observations  from  sunrise  to  midnight.  The 
wind  at  eleven  o'clock  set  in  from  the  northward  in  heavy  gusts,  and 
the   snow   changed    into   rain.   In    the    afternoon,    when    the    sky 


521 


brightened,  the  rain  had  washed  all  the  snow  from  the  bottoms;  but 
the  neighboring  mountains,  from  summit  to  foot,  were  luminously 
white — an  inauspicious  commencement  of  the  autumn,  of  which 
this  was  the  first  day. 

September  24. — The  thermometer  at  sunrise  was  at  35°,  and  a  blue 
sky  in  the  west  promised  a  fine  day.  The  river  bottoms  here  are  nar- 
row and  swampy,  with  frequent  sloughs;  and  after  crossing  the 
Pannack,  the  road  continued  along  the  uplands,  rendered  very  slip- 
pery by  the  soil  of  wet  clay,  and  entirely  covered  with  artemisia 
bushes,  among  which  occur  frequent  fragments  of  obsidian.  At  noon 
we  encamped  in  a  grove  of  willows,  at  the  upper  end  of  a  group  of 
islands,  about  half  a  mile  above  the  American  jails  of  Snake  river. 
Among  the  willows  here,  were  some  bushes  of  Lewis  and  Clarke's 
currant,  {ribes  aureum.y^  The  river  here  enters  between  low  mu- 
ral banks,  which  consist  of  a  fine  vesicular  trap  rock,  the  interme- 
diate portions  being  compact  and  crystalline.  Gradually  becoming 
higher  in  its  downward  course,  these  banks  of  scoriated  volcanic 
rock  form,  with  occasional  interruptions,  its  characteristic  feature 
along  the  whole  line  to  the  Dalles  of  the  Lower  Columbia,  re- 
sembling a  chasm  which  had  been  rent  through  the  country,  and 
which  the  river  had  afterwards  taken  for  its  bed.  The  immediate 
valley  of  the  river  is  a  high  plain,  covered  with  black  rocks  and 
artemisias.  In  the  south  is  a  bordering  range  of  mountains,  which, 
although  not  very  high,  are  broken  and  covered  with  snow ;  and  at 
a  great  distance  to  the  north  is  seen  the  high,  snowy  line  of  the 
Salmon  river  mountains,  in  front  of  which  stand  out  prominently 
in  the  plain  the  three  isolated  rugged-looking  little  mountains  com- 
monly known  as  the  Three  Buttes.  Between  the  river  and  the  dis- 
tant Salmon  river  range,  the  plain  is  represented  by  Mr.  Fitzpatrick 


63.  No  edition  of  the  full  journals  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  with  their  botanical 
observations,  would  be  available  for  another  half  century.  But  JCF,  and  surely 
Torrey,  would  have  had  access  to  the  narrative  of  their  expedition  prepared 
by  Nicholas  Biddle  and  published  in  1814.  Seeds  and  dried  plants  of  several 
species  of  Ribes  were  brought  back  by  Lewis  and  Clark,  the  seeds  going  to 
horticulturist  Bernard  McMahon.  Later,  McMahon  reported  to  Thomas  Jef- 
ferson that  he  had  grown  "seven  or  eight  sorts  of  gooseberries  &  currants" 
from  the  seeds  (jackson  |1],  389n).  Specimens  of  R.  aureiim  and  R.  visco- 
sissimum  (yellow  and  black  currants)  brought  back  by  Lewis  and  Clark  are 
in  the  herbarium  of  the  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  Philadelphia  (cut- 
right,  172n). 


522 


as  so  entirely  broken  up  and  rent  into  chasms  as  to  be  impracticable 
for  a  man  even  on  foot.  In  the  sketch  annexed  [p.  524],  the  point  of 
view  is  low,  but  it  conveys  very  well  some  idea  of  the  open  character 
of  the  country,  with  the  buttes  rising  out  above  the  general  line.  By 
measurement,  the  river  above  is  870  feet  wide,  immediately  con- 
tracted at  the  fall  in  the  form  of  a  lock,  by  jutting  piles  of  scoriaceous 
basalt,  over  which  the  foaming  river  must  present  a  grand  appear- 
ance at  the  time  of  high  water.  The  evening  was  clear  and  pleasaint, 
with  dew;  and  at  sunset  the  temperature  was  54°.  By  observation, 
the  latitude  is  42°  4/ 05",  and  the  longitude  112°  40' 13".  A  few 
hundred  yards  below  the  falls,  and  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  is 
the  escarpment  from  which  were  taken  the  specimens  that  in  the 
appendix  are  numbered,  94,  96,  97, 101, 102, 106,  and  107. 

September  25. — Thermometer  at  sunrise  47°.  The  day  came  in 
clear,  with  a  strong  gale  from  the  south,  which  commenced  at  11  of 
the  last  night.  The  road  to-day  led  along  the  river,  which  is  full  of 
rapids  and  small  falls.  Grass  is  very  scanty;  and  along  the  rugged 
banks  are  scattered  cedars,  with  an  abundance  of  rocks  and  sage. 
We  travelled  14  miles,  and  encamped  in  the  afternoon  near  the  river, 
on  a  rocky  creek,  the  bed  of  which  was  entirely  occupied  with 
boulders  of  a  very  large  size.  For  the  last  three  or  four  miles  the 
right  bank  of  the  river  has  a  palisaded  appearance.  One  of  the  oxen 
was  killed  here  for  food.  The  thermometer  at  evening  was  at  55°, 
the  sky  almost  overcast,  and  the  barometer  indicated  an  elevation  of 
4,400  feet. 

September  26. — Rain  during  the  night,  and  the  temperature  at 
sunrise  42°.  Travelling  along  the  river,  in  about  4  miles  we  reached 
a  picturesque  stream,  to  which  we  gave  the  name  of  Fall  creek.  It  is 
remarkable  for  the  many  falls  which  occur  in  a  short  distance;  and 
its  bed  is  composed  of  a  calcareous  tufa,  or  vegetable  rock,  composed 
principally  of  the  remains  of  reeds  and  mosses,  resembling  that  at 
the  Basin  spring  on  Bear  river. 

The  road  along  the  river  bluffs  had  been  occasionally  very  bad; 
and  imagining  that  some  rough  obstacles  rendered  such  a  detour 
necessary,  we  followed  for  several  miles  a  plain  wagon  road  leading 
up  this  stream,  until  we  reached  a  point  whence  it  could  be  seen 
making  directly  towards  a  low  place  in  the  range  on  the  south  side 
of  the  valley,  and  we  became  immediately  aware  that  we  were  on  a 
trail  formed  by  a  party  of  wagons,  in  company  with  whom  we  had 


523 


o 

CO 

h-1 

o 

_o 
ui 

s 
< 

H 


524 


encamped  at  Elm  grove,  near  the  frontier  of  Missouri,  and  which 
you  will  remember  were  proceeding  to  Upper  California  under  the 
direction  of  Mr.  Jos.  Chiles.  At  the  time  of  their  departure,  no  prac- 
ticable passes  were  known  in  the  southern  Rocky  mountains  within 
the  territory  of  the  United  States;  and  the  probable  apprehension 
of  difficulty  in  attempting  to  pass  near  the  settled  frontier  of  New 
Mexico,  together  with  the  desert  character  of  the  unexplored  region 
beyond,  had  induced  them  to  take  a  more  northern  and  circuitous 
route  by  way  of  the  Sweet  Water  pass  and  Fort  Hall.  They  had  still 
between  them  and  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento  a  great  mass  of 
mountains,  forming  the  Sierra  Nevada,  here  commonly  known  as 
the  Great  Calif  or  jiia  mountain,  and  which  were  at  this  time  con- 
sidered as  presenting  an  impracticable  barrier  to  wheeled  carriages. 
Various  considerations  had  suggested  to  them  a  division  of  the 
party;  and  a  greater  portion  of  the  camp,  including  the  wagons, 
with  the  mail  and  other  stores,  were  now  proceeding  under  the 
guidance  of  Mr.  Joseph  Walker,  who  had  engaged  to  conduct 
them,  by  a  long  sweep  to  the  southward,  around  what  is  called  the 
poifit  of  the  mountain;  and,  crossing  through  a  pass  known  only 
to  himself,  gain  the  banks  of  the  Sacramento  by  the  valley  of  the  San 
Joaquin.  It  was  a  long  and  hazardous  journey  for  a  party  in  which 
there  were  women  and  children.  Sixty  days  was  the  shortest  period 
of  time  in  which  they  could  reach  the  point  of  the  mountain,  and 
their  route  lay  through  a  country  inhabited  by  wild  and  badly  dis- 
posed Indians,  and  very  poor  in  game;  but  the  leader  was  a  man 
possessing  great  and  intimate  knowledge  of  the  Indians,  with  an 
extraordinary  firmness  and  decision  of  character.  In  the  mean  time, 
Mr.  Chiles  had  passed  down  the  Columbia  with  a  party  of  ten  or 
twelve  men,  with  the  intention  of  reaching  the  settlements  on  the 
Sacramento  by  a  more  direct  course,  which  indefinite  information 
from  hunters  had  indicated  in  the  direction  of  the  head  waters  of  the 
Riviere  aux  Malheurs;  and  having  obtained  there  a  reinforcement  of 
animals,  and  a  supply  of  provisions,  meet  the  wagons  before  they 
should  have  reached  the  point  of  the  mountain,  at  a  place  which 
had  been  previously  agreed  upon.  In  the  course  of  our  narrative,  we 
shall  be  able  to  give  you  some  information  of  the  fortune  which  at- 
tended the  movements  of  these  adventurous  travellers. 

Having  discovered  our  error,  we  immediately  regained  the  line 
along  the  river,  which  the  road  quitted  about  noon,  and  encamped 


525 


64 


at  5  o'clock  on  a  stream  called  Raft  river,  {Riviere  aux  Cajeux,) 
having  travelled  only  13  miles.  In  the  north,  the  Salmon  river  moun- 
tains are  visible  at  a  very  far  distance;  and  on  the  left,  the  ridge  in 
which  Raft  river  heads  is  about  20  miles  distant,  rocky,  and  tolerably 
high.  Thermometer  at  sunset  44°,  with  a  partially  clouded  sky,  and 
a  sharp  wind  from  the  SW. 

September  27. — It  was  now  no  longer  possible,  as  in  our  previous 
journey,  to  travel  regularly  every  day,  and  find  at  any  moment  a 
convenient  place  for  repose  at  noon  or  a  camp  at  night;  but  the  halt- 
ing places  were  now  generally  fixed  along  the  road,  by  the  nature  of 
the  country,  at  places  where,  with  water,  there  was  a  little  scanty 
grass.  Since  leaving  the  American  falls,  the  road  had  frequently 
been  very  bad ;  the  many  short,  steep  ascents,  exhausting  the  strength 
of  our  worn-out  animals,  requiring  always  at  such  places  the  as- 
sistance of  the  men  to  get  up  each  cart,  one  by  one;  and  our  progress 
with  twelve  or  fourteen  wheeled  carriages,  though  light  and  made 
for  the  purpose,  in  such  a  rocky  country,  was  extremely  slow;  and 
I  again  determined  to  gain  time  by  a  division  of  the  camp.  Ac- 
cordingly, to-day  the  parties  again  separated,  constituted  very  much 
as  before — Mr.  Fitzpatrick  remaining  in  charge  of  the  heavier  bag- 
gage. 

The  morning  was  calm  and  clear,  with  a  white  frost,  and  the  tem- 
perature at  sunrise  24°. 

To-day  the  country  had  a  very  forbidding  appearance;  and,  after 
travelling  20  miles  over  a  slightly  undulating  plain,  we  encamped  at 
a  considerable  spring,  called  Swamp  creek  [Marsh  Creek],  rising  in 
low  grounds  near  the  point  of  a  spur  from  the  mountain.  Returning 
with  a  small  party  in  a  starving  condition  from  the  westward  12  or 
14  years  since  [probably  the  spring  of  1836],  Carson  had  met  here 
three  or  four  buffalo  bulls,  two  of  which  were  killed.  They  were 
among  the  pioneers  which  had  made  the  experiment  of  colonizing 
in  the  valley  of  the  Columbia,  and  which  had  failed,  as  heretofore 
stated.  At  sunset  the  thermometer  was  at  46°,  and  the  evening  was 
overcast,  with  a  cold  wind  from  the  SE.,  and  to-night  we  had  only 


64.  The  Raft  River  joins  the  Snake  in  Blaine  County,  Idaho,  after  heading 
in  the  Raft  River  Mountains.  JCF  is  one  of  the  few  early  travelers  to  correcdy 
render  the  name  cajeux,  applied  at  an  early  date  by  the  French  peasantry  to 
small  rafts.  Lewis  and  Clark  also  made  a  stab  at  it  hy  mentioning  "chaussies" 
on  the  Missouri  in  1804. 

526 


sage  for  fire  wood.  Mingled  with  the  artemisia  was  a  shrubby  and 
thorny  chenopodiaceous  plant. 

September  28. — Thermometer  at  sunrise  40°.  The  wind  rose  early 
to  a  gale  from  the  west,  with  a  very  cold  driving  rain ;  and,  after  an 
uncomfortable  day's  ride  of  25  miles,  we  were  glad  when  at  evening 
we  found  a  sheltered  camp,  where  there  was  an  abundance  of  wood, 
at  some  elevated  rocky  islands  covered  with  cedar,  near  the  com- 
mencement of  another  long  canon  of  the  river.  With  the  exception 
of  a  short  detention  at  a  deep  little  stream  called  Goose  creek,  and 
some  occasional  rocky  places,  we  had  to-day  a  very  good  road;  but 
the  country  has  a  barren  appearance,  sandy,  and  densely  covered 
with  the  artemisias  from  the  banks  of  the  river  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountains.  Here  I  remarked,  among  the  sage  bushes,  green  bunches 
of  what  is  called  the  second  growth  of  grass.  The  river  to-day  has 
had  a  smooth  appearance,  free  from  rapids,  with  a  low,  sandy  hill 
slope  bordering  the  bottoms,  in  which  there  is  a  little  good  soil. 
Thermometer  at  sunset  45°,  blowing  a  gale,  and  disagreeably  cold. 

September  29. — The  thermometer  at  sunrise  36°,  with  a  bright  sun, 
and  appearance  of  finer  weather.  The  road  for  several  miles  was 
extremely  rocky,  and  consequently  bad;  but,  entering  after  this  a 
sandy  country,  it  became  very  good,  with  no  other  interruption  than 
the  sage  bushes,  which  covered  the  river  plain  so  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  and,  with  their  uniform  tint  of  dark  gray,  gave  to  the  country 
a  gloomy  and  sombre  appearance.  All  the  day  the  course  of  the  river 
has  been  between  walls  of  the  black  volcanic  rock,  a  dark  line  of  the 
escarpment  on  the  opposite  side  pointing  out  its  course,  and  sweep- 
ing along  in  foam  at  places  where  the  mountains  which  border  the 
valley  present  always  on  the  left  two  ranges,  the  lower  one  a  spur  of 
the  higher;  and,  on  the  opposite  side,  the  Salmon  river  mountains  are 
visible  at  a  great  distance.  Having  made  24  miles,  we  encamped 
about  5  o'clock  on  Rock  creek — a  stream  having  considerable  water, 
a  swift  current,  and  wooded  with  willow. 

September  30. — Thermometer  at  sunrise  28°.  In  its  progress  to- 
wards the  river,  this  creek  soon  enters  a  chasm  of  the  volcanic  rock, 
which  in  places  along  the  wall  presents  a  columnar  appearance;  and 
the  road  becomes  extremely  rocky  whenever  it  passes  near  its  banks. 
It  is  only  about  twenty  feet  wide  where  the  road  crosses  it,  with  a 
deep  bed,  and  steep  banks,  covered  with  rocky  fragments,  with  wil- 
lows and  a  little  grass  on  its  narrow  bottom.  The  soil  appears  to  be 
full  of  calcareous  matter,  with  which  the  rocks  are  incrusted.  The 

527 


fragments  of  rock  which  had  been  removed  by  the  emigrants  in 
making  a  road  where  we  ascended  from  the  bed  of  this  creek  were 
whitened  with  hme;  and  during  the  afternoon's  march  I  remarked 
in  the  soil  a  considerable  quantity  of  calcareous  concretions.  Towards 
evening  the  sages  became  more  sparse,  and  the  clear  spaces  were  oc- 
cupied by  tufts  of  green  grass.  The  river  still  continued  its  course 
through  a  trough  or  open  canon;  and  towards  sunset  we  followed 
the  trail  of  several  wagons  which  had  turned  in  towards  Snake  river, 
and  encamped,  as  they  had  done,  on  the  top  of  the  escarpment.  There 
was  no  grass  here,  the  soil  among  the  sage  being  entirely  naked ;  but 
there  is  occasionally  a  little  bottom  along  the  river,  which  a  short 
ravine  of  rocks,  at  rare  intervals,  leaves  accessible;  and  by  one  of 
these  we  drove  our  animals  down,  and  found  some  tolerably  good 
grass  bordering  the  water. 

Immediately  opposite  to  us,  a  subterranean  river  bursts  out  directly 
from  the  face  of  the  escarpment,  and  falls  in  white  foam  to  the  river 
below.  In  the  views  annexed,  you  will  find,  with  a  sketch  of  this  re- 
markable fall  [Shoshone  Falls],  a  representation  of  the  mural  preci- 
pices which  enclose  the  main  river,  and  which  form  its  characteristic 
feature  along  a  great  portion  of  its  course.  A  melancholy  and  strange- 
looking  country — one  of  fracture,  and  violence,  and  fire. 

We  had  brought  with  us,  when  we  separated  from  the  camp,  a 
large  gaunt  ox,  in  appearance  very  poor;  but,  being  killed  to-night, 
to  the  great  joy  of  the  people,  he  was  found  to  be  remarkably  fat.  As 
usual  at  such  occurrences,  the  evening  was  devoted  to  gayety  and 
feasting;  abundant  fare  now  made  an  epoch  among  us;  and  in  this 
laborious  life,  in  such  a  country  as  this,  our  men  had  but  little  else 
to  enjoy.  The  temperature  at  sunset  was  65°,  with  a  clear  sky  and  a 
very  high  wind.  By  the  observation  of  the  evening,  the  encampment 
was  in  longitude  114°  25'  04",  and  in  latitude  42°  38'  44''. 

October  1. — The  morning  clear,  with  wind  from  the  west,  and  the 
thermometer  at  55°.  We  descended  to  the  bottom,  taking  with  us  the 
boat,  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  the  fall  in  the  opposite  cliffs;  and 
while  it  was  being  filled  with  air,  we  occupied  ourselves  in  measur- 
ing the  river,  which  is  1,786  feet  in  breadth,  with  banks  200  feet 
high.  We  were  surprised,  on  our  arrival  at  the  opposite  side,  to  find 
a  beautiful  basin  of  clear  water,  formed  by  the  falling  river,  around 
which  the  rocks  were  whitened  by  some  saline  incrustation.  Here  the 
Indians  had  constructed  wicker  dams,  although  I  was  informed  that 


528 


"j!jp--5-w>  ^'J^L!-. 


Outlet  of  subterranean  river 


529 


the  salmon  do  not  ascend  the  river  so  far;  and  its  character  below 
would  apparently  render  it  impracticable. 

The  ascent  of  the  steep  hill  side  was  rendered  a  little  difficult  by  a 
dense  growth  of  shrubs  and  fields  of  cane;  and  there  were  frequent 
hidden  crevices  among  the  rocks,  where  the  water  was  heard  rushing 
below;  but  we  succeeded  in  reaching  the  main  stream,  which,  issuing 
from  between  strata  of  the  trap  rock  in  two  principal  branches,  pro- 
duced almost  immediately  a  torrent,  22  feet  wide,  and  white  with 
foam.  It  is  a  picturesque  spot  of  singular  beauty;  overshaded  by 
bushes,  from  under  which  the  torrent  glances,  tumbling  into  the 
white  basin  below  where  the  clear  water  contrasted  beautifully  with 
the  muddy  stream  of  the  river.  Its  outlet  was  covered  with  a  rank 
growth  of  canes,  and  a  variety  of  unusual  plants,  and  nettles,  {urtica 
canabma,)  which,  before  they  were  noticed,  had  set  our  hands  and 
arms  on  fire.  The  temperature  of  the  spring  was  58°,  while  that  of 
the  river  was  51°.  The  perpendicular  height  of  the  place  at  which 
this  stream  issues  is  45  feet  above  the  river,  and  152  feet  below  the 
summit  of  the  precipice,  making  nearly  200  feet  for  the  height  of  the 
wall.  On  the  hill  side  here,  was  obtained  the  specimen  designated  by 
the  number  12  in  the  collection,  consisting  principally  of  fragments 
of  the  shells  of  small  Crustacea,  and  which  was  probably  formed  by 
deposition  from  these  springs  proceeding  from  some  lake  or  river  in 
the  highlands  above. 

We  resumed  our  journey  at  noon,  the  day  being  hot  and  bright; 
and,  after  a  march  of  17  miles,  encamped  at  sunset  on  the  river,  near 
several  lodges  of  Snake  [Shoshoni]  Indians. 

Our  encampment  was  about  one  mile  below  the  Fishing  falls 
[Salmon  Falls],  a  series  of  cataracts  with  very  inclined  planes,  which 
are  probably  so  named  because  they  form  a  barrier  to  the  ascent  of 
the  salmon;  and  the  great  fisheries  from  which  the  inhabitants  of 
this  barren  region  almost  entirely  derive  a  subsistence  commence  at 
this  place.  These  appeared  to  be  unusually  gay  savages,  fond  of  loud 
laughter;  and,  in  their  apparent  good  nature  and  merry  character, 
struck  me  as  being  entirely  difiFerent  from  the  Indians  we  had  been 
accustomed  to  see.  From  several  who  visited  our  camp  in  the  eve- 
ning, we  purchased,  in  exchange  for  goods,  dried  salmon.  At  this  sea- 
son they  are  not  very  fat,  but  we  were  easily  pleased.  The  Indians 
made  us  comprehend,  that  when  the  salmon  came  up  the  river  in  the 
spring,  they  are  so  abundant  that  they  merely  throw  in  their  spears 
at  random,  certain  of  bringing  out  a  fish. 

530 


These  poor  people  are  but  slightly  provided  with  winter  clothing; 
there  is  but  little  game  to  furnish  skins  for  the  purpose;  and  of  a 
little  animal  which  seemed  to  be  the  most  numerous,  it  required  20 
skins  to  make  a  covering  to  the  knees.  But  they  are  still  a  joyous 
talkative  race,  who  grow  fat  and  become  poor  with  the  salmon, 
which  at  least  never  fail  them — the  dried  being  used  in  the  absence 
of  the  fresh.  We  are  encamped  immediately  on  the  river  bank,  and 
with  the  salmon  jumping  up  out  of  the  water,  and  Indians  paddling 
about  in  boats  made  of  rushes,  or  laughing  around  the  fires,  the 
camp  to-night  has  quite  a  lively  appearance. 

The  river  at  this  place  is  more  open  than  for  some  distance  above ; 
and,  for  the  time,  the  black  precipices  have  disappeared,  and  no  cal- 
careous matter  is  visible  in  the  soil.  The  thermometer  at  sunset  74° ; 
clear  and  calm. 

October  2. — The  sunrise  temperature  was  48°;  the  weather  clear 
and  calm.  Shortly  after  leaving  the  encampment,  we  crossed  a 
stream  of  clear  water,  with  a  variable  breadth  of  10  to  25  yards, 
broken  by  rapids,  and  lightly  wooded  with  willow,  and  having  a 
little  grass  on  its  small  bottom  land.  The  barrenness  of  the  country 
is  in  fine  contrast  to-day  with  the  mingled  beauty  and  grandeur  of 
the  river,  which  is  more  open  than  hitherto,  with  a  constant  succes- 
sion of  falls  and  rapids.  Over  the  edge  of  the  black  cliffs,  and  out 
from  their  faces,  are  falling  numberless  streams  and  springs;  and  all 
the  line  of  the  river  is  in  motion  with  the  play  of  the  water.  In  about 
seven  miles  we  reached  the  most  beautiful  and  picturesque  fall  I  had 
seen  on  the  river. 

On  the  opposite  side,  the  vertical  fall  is  perhaps  18  feet  high;  and 
nearer,  the  sheet  of  foaming  water  is  divided  and  broken  into  cata- 
racts, where  several  little  islands  on  the  brink  and  in  the  river  above 
give  it  much  picturesque  beauty,  and  make  it  one  of  those  places  the 
traveller  turns  again  and  again  to  fix  in  his  memory.  There  were  sev- 
eral lodges  of  Indians  here,  from  whom  we  traded  salmon.  Below 
this  place  the  river  makes  a  remarkable  bend ;  and  the  road,  ascend- 
ing the  ridge,  gave  us  a  fine  view  of  the  river  below,  intersected  at 
many  places  by  numerous  fish  dams.  In  the  north,  about  50  miles 
distant,  were  some  high  snowy  peaks  of  the  Salmon  river  mountains; 
and  in  the  northeast,  the  last  peak  of  the  range  was  visible  at  the  dis- 
tance of  perhaps  100  miles  or  more.  The  river  hills  consist  of  very 
broken  masses  of  sand,  covered  every  where  with  the  same  intermi- 
nable fields  of  sage,  and  occasionally  the  road  is  very  heavy.  We  now 

531 


very  frequently  saw  Indians,  who  were  strung  along  the  river  at 
every  little  rapid  where  fish  are  to  be  caught,  and  the  cry  haggai, 
haggai,  (fish,)  was  constantly  heard  whenever  we  passed  near  their 
huts,  or  met  them  in  the  road.  Very  many  of  them  were  oddly  and 
partially  dressed  in  overcoat,  shirt,  waistcoat,  or  pantaloons,  or  what- 
ever article  of  clothing  they  had  been  able  to  procure  in  trade  from 
the  emigrants;  for  we  had  now  entirely  quitted  the  country  where 
hawk's  bells,  beads,  and  vermilion,  were  the  current  coin,  and  found 
that  here  only  useful  articles,  and  chiefly  clothing,  were  in  great  re- 
quest. These,  however,  are  eagerly  sought  after;  and  for  a  few  trifling 
pieces  of  clothing,  travellers  may  procure  food  sufficient  to  carry 
them  to  the  Columbia. 

We  made  a  long  stretch  across  the  upper  plain,  and  encamped  on 
the  bluff,  where  the  grass  was  very  green  and  good;  the  soil  of  the 
upper  plains  containing  a  considerable  proportion  of  calcareous  mat- 
ter. This  green  freshness  of  the  grass  was  very  remarkable  for  the 
season  of  the  year.  Again  we  heard  the  roar  of  a  fall  in  the  river  be- 
low, where  the  water  in  an  unbroken  volume  goes  over  a  descent  of 
several  feet.  The  night  is  clear,  and  the  weather  continues  very  warm 
and  pleasant,  with  a  sunset  temperature  of  70°. 

October  3. — The  morning  was  pleasant,  with  a  temperature  at  sun- 
rise of  42°.  The  road  was  broken  by  ravines  among  the  hills,  and  in 
one  of  these,  which  made  the  bed  of  a  dry  creek,  I  found  a  frag- 
mentary stratum,  or  brecciated  conglomerate,  consisting  of  flinty 
slate  pebbles,  with  fragments  of  limestone  containing  fossil  shells, 
which  will  be  found  described  in  the  appendix  under  the  numbers 
16,  21,  and  39. 

On  the  left,  the  mountains  are  visible  at  the  distance  of  twenty  or 
thirty  miles,  appearing  smooth  and  rather  low;  but  at  intervals 
higher  peaks  look  out  from  beyond,  and  indicate  that  the  main 
ridge,  which  we  are  leaving  with  the  course  of  the  river,  and  which 
forms  the  northern  boundary  of  the  Great  Basin,  still  maintains  its 
elevation.  About  2  o'clock  we  arrived  at  the  ford  where  the  road 
crosses  to  the  right  bank  of  Snake  river.  An  Indian  was  hired  to 
conduct  us  through  the  ford,  which  proved  impracticable  for  us,  the 
water  sweeping  away  the  howitzer  and  nearly  drowning  the  mules, 
which  we  were  obliged  to  extricate  by  cutting  them  out  of  the  har- 
ness. The  river  here  is  expanded  into  a  little  bay,  in  which  there  are 
two  islands,  across  which  is  the  road  of  the  ford ;  and  the  emigrants 
had  passed  by  placing  two  of  their  heavy  wagons  abreast  of  each 

532 


other,  so  as  to  oppose  a  considerable  mass  against  the  body  of  water. 
The  Indians  informed  us  that  one  of  the  men,  in  attempting  to  turn 
some  cattle  which  had  taken  a  wrong  direction,  was  carried  off  by 
the  current  and  drowned.  Since  their  passage,  the  water  had  risen 
considerably;  but,  fortunately,  we  had  a  resource  in  a  boat,  which 
was  filled  with  air  and  launched ;  and  at  seven  o'clock  we  were  safely 
encamped  on  the  opposite  bank,  the  animals  swimming  across,  and 
the  carriage,  howitzer,  and  baggage  of  the  camp,  being  carried  over 
in  the  boat.  At  the  place  where  we  crossed,  above  the  islands,  the 
river  had  narrowed  to  a  breadth  of  1,049  feet  by  measurement,  the 
greater  portion  of  which  was  from  six  to  eight  feet  deep.  We  were 
obliged  to  make  our  camp  where  we  landed,  among  the  Indian 
lodges,  which  are  semicircular  huts  made  of  willow,  thatched  over 
with  straw,  and  open  to  the  sunny  south.  By  observation,  the  latitude 
of  our  encampment  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  was  42°  55' 58"; 
chronometric  longitude  115°  04' 46",  and  the  travelled  distance  from 
Fort  Hall  208  miles.'' 

October  4.— Calm  pleasant  day,  with  the  thermometer  at  sunrise 
at  47°.  Leaving  the  river  at  a  considerable  distance  to  the  left,  and 
following  up  the  bed  of  a  rocky  creek,  with  occasional  holes  of 
water,  in  about  six  miles  we  ascended,  by  a  long  and  rather  steep  hill, 
to  a  plain  600  feet  above  the  river,  over  which  we  continued  to  travel 
during  the  day,  having  a  broken  ridge  2,000  or  3,000  feet  high  on  the 
right.  The  plain  terminates,  where  we  ascended,  in  an  escarpment  of 
vesicular  trap  rock,  which  supplies  the  fragments  of  the  creek  below. 
The  sky  clouded  over,  with  a  strong  wind  from  the  northwest,  with 
a  few  drops  of  rain  and  occasional  sunlight,  threatening  a  change. 

Artemisia  still  covers  the  plain,  but  Purshia  tridentata  makes  its 
appearance  here  on  the  hill  sides  and  on  bottoms  of  the  creeks — quite 
a  tree  in  size,  and  larger  than  the  artemisia.  We  crossed  several  hol- 
lows with  a  little  water  in  them,  and  improved  grass;  and,  turning 
off  from  the  road  in  the  afternoon  in  search  of  water,  travelled  about 
three  miles  up  the  bed  of  a  willow  creek,  towards  the  mountain,  and 
found  a  good  encampment,  with  wood  and  grass,  and  little  ponds  of 
water  in  the  bed  of  the  creek  [Alkali  Creek];  which  must  be  of 
more  importance  at  other  seasons,  as  we  found  there  several  old  fix- 


65.  The  Oregon  Trail  crossed  the  Snake  River  here  at  Three  Island  Cross- 
ing, near  present  Glenns  Ferry,  Idaho.  The  route  then  left  the  river  and  took 
the  wagons  on  a  cross-country  course  toward  Fort  Boise. 

533 


tures  for  fishing.  There  were  many  holes  on  the  creek  prairie,  which 
had  been  made  by  the  diggers  in  search  of  roots. 

Wind  increased  to  a  violent  gale  from  the  NW.,  with  a  tempera- 
ture at  sunset  of  57°. 

October  5. — ^The  morning  was  calm  and  clear,  and  at  sunrise  the 
thermometer  was  at  32°.  The  road  to-day  was  occasionally  extremely 
rocky,  with  hard  volcanic  fragments,  and  our  travelling  very  slow. 
In  about  nine  miles  the  road  brought  us  to  a  group  of  smoking  hot 
springs,^^  with  a  temperature  of  164°.  There  were  a  few  helianthi  in 
bloom,  with  some  other  low  plants,  and  the  place  was  green  round 
about;  the  ground  warm,  and  the  air  pleasant,  with  a  summer  atmo- 
sphere that  was  very  grateful  in  a  day  of  high  and  cold  searching 
wind.  The  rocks  were  covered  with  a  white  and  red  incrustation; 
and  the  water  has  on  the  tongue  the  same  unpleasant  effect  as  that 
of  the  Basin  spring  on  Bear  river.  They  form  several  branches,  and 
bubble  up  with  force  enough  to  raise  the  small  pebbles  several  inches. 

The  following  is  an  analysis  of  the  deposite  with  which  the  rocks 
are  incrusted: 

Analysis. 

Silica 72.55 

Carbonate  of  lime 14.60 

Carbonate  of  magnesia        .        .        .        .  1.20 

Oxide  of  iron 4.65 

Alumina 0.70 

Chloride  of  sodium,  &c. 

Sulphate  of  soda              >    .        .        .        .  1.10 

Sulphate  of  lime,  &c.      J 

Organic  vegetable  matterl  c-  ^r. 

Water  and  loss  J   ' 

100.00 


These  springs  are  near  the  foot  of  the  ridge,  (a  dark  and  rugged 
looking  mountain,)  in  which  some  of  the  nearer  rocks  have  a  red- 
dish appearance,  and  probably  consist  of  a  reddish-brown  trap,  frag- 
ments of  which  were  scattered  along  the  road  after  leaving  the 
spring.  The  road  was  now  about  to  cross  the  point  of  this  moun- 
tain, which  we  judged  to  be  a  spur  from  the  Salmon  river  range.  We 


66.  A  well-known  landmark   to  early  travelers,   Hot   Springs   lies  east  of 
Mountain  Home,  Idaho. 

534 


crossed  a  small  creek,  and  encamped  about  sunset  on  a  stream,  which 
is  probably  Lake  river.^^  This  is  a  small  stream,  some  five  or  six  feet 
broad,  with  a  swift  current,  timbered  principally  with  willows  and 
some  few  cottonwoods.  Along  the  banks  were  canes,  rose  bushes, 
and  clematis,  with  Purshia  tridentata  and  artemisias  on  the  upper 
bottom.  The  sombre  appearance  of  the  country  is  somewhat  relieved 
in  coming  unexpectedly  from  the  dark  rocks  upon  these  green  and 
wooded  watercourses,  sunk  in  chasms;  and,  in  the  spring,  the  con- 
trasted effect  must  make  them  beautiful. 

The  thermometer  at  sunset  47°,  and  the  night  threatening  snow. 

October  6. — The  morning  warm,  the  thermometer  46°  at  sunrise, 
and  sky  entirely  clouded.  After  travelling  about  three  miles  over  an 
extremely  rocky  road,  the  volcanic  fragments  began  to  disappear; 
and,  entering  among  the  hills  at  the  point  of  the  mountain,  we 
found  ourselves  suddenly  in  a  granite  country.  Here,  the  character  of 
the  vegetation  was  very  much  changed;  the  artemisia  disappeared  al- 
most entirely,  showing  only  at  intervals  towards  the  close  of  the  day, 
and  was  replaced  by  Purshia  tridentata,  with  flowering  shrubs,  and 
small  fields  of  dieteria  divaricata,  which  gave  bloom  and  gayety  to 
the  hills.  These  were  every  where  covered  with  a  fresh  and  green 
short  grass,  like  that  of  the  early  spring.  This  is  the  fall  or  second 
growth,  the  dried  grass  having  been  burnt  off  by  the  Indians;  and 
wherever  the  fire  has  passed,  the  bright-green  color  is  universal.  The 
soil  among  the  hills  is  altogether  different  from  that  of  the  river 
plain,  being  in  many  places  black,  in  others  sandy  and  gravelly,  but 
of  a  firm  and  good  character,  appearing  to  result  from  the  decom- 
position of  the  granite  rocks,  which  is  proceeding  rapidly. 

In  quitting  for  a  time  the  artemisia  (sage)  through  which  we  had 
been  so  long  voyaging,  and  the  sombre  appearance  of  which  is  so 
discouraging,  I  have  to  remark,  that  I  have  been  informed  that  in 
Mexico  wheat  is  grown  upon  the  ground  which  produces  this  shrub; 
which,  if  true,  relieves  the  soil  from  the  character  of  sterility  imputed 
to  it.  Be  this  as  it  may,  there  is  no  dispute  about  the  grass,  which  is 
almost  universal  on  the  hills  and  mountains,  and  always  nutritious, 
even  in  its  dry  state.  We  passed  on  the  way  masses  of  granite  on  the 
slope  of  a  spur,  which  was  very  much  weathered  and  abraded.  This 


67.  His  1845  map  shows  a  camp  at  "R.  aux  Rochers,"  and  the  Preuss  map  of 
1846  identifies  it  as  Rock  Creek.  He  was  at  the  foot  of  the  Sawtooth  Moun- 
tains, and  may  have  camped  on  what  is  now  called  Rattlesnake  Creek. 

535 


is  a  white  feldspathic  granite,  with  small  scales  of  black  mica ;  smoky 
quartz  and  garnets  appear  to  constitute  this  portion  of  the  mountain. 

The  road  at  noon  reached  a  broken  ridge,  on  which  were  scattered 
many  boulders  or  blocks  of  granite ;  and,  passing  very  small  streams, 
where,  with  a  little  more  than  the  usual  timber,  was  sometimes 
gathered  a  little  wilderness  of  plants,  we  encamped  on  a  small 
stream,  after  a  march  of  22  miles,  in  company  with  a  few  Indians. 
Temperature  at  sunset  51°;  and  the  night  was  partially  clear,  with  a 
few  stars  visible  through  drifting  white  clouds.  The  Indians  made 
an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  steal  a  few  horses  from  us — a  thing  of 
course  with  them,  and  to  prevent  which  the  traveller  is  on  perpetual 
watch. 

October  7. — The  day  was  bright,  clear,  and  pleasant,  with  a  tem- 
perature of  45° ;  and  we  breakfasted  at  sunrise,  the  birds  singing  in 
the  trees  as  merrily  as  if  we  were  in  the  midst  of  summer.  On  the 
upper  edge  of  the  hills  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  creek,  the  black 
volcanic  rock  reappears;  and  ascending  these,  the  road  passed 
through  a  basin,  around  which  the  hills  swept  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
give  it  the  appearance  of  an  old  crater.  Here  were  strata  and  broken 
beds  of  black  scoriated  rock,  and  hills  composed  of  the  same,  on  the 
summit  of  one  of  which  there  was  an  opening  resembling  a  rent.  We 
travelled  to-day  through  a  country  resembling  that  of  yesterday, 
where,  although  the  surface  was  hilly,  the  road  was  good,  being  firm, 
and  entirely  free  from  rocks  and  artemisia.  To  our  left,  below,  was 
the  great  sage  plain;  and  on  the  right  were  the  near  mountains, 
which  presented  a  smoothly  broken  character,  or  rather  a  surface 
waved  into  numberless  hills.  The  road  was  occasionally  enlivened  by 
meeting  Indians,  and  the  day  was  extremely  beautiful  and  pleasant; 
and  we  were  pleased  to  be  free  from  the  sage,  even  for  a  day.  When 
we  had  travelled  about  8  miles,  we  were  nearly  opposite  to  the  high- 
est portion  of  the  mountains  on  the  left  side  of  the  Smoke  [Snake] 
river  valley;  and,  continuing  on  a  few  miles  beyond,  we  came  sud- 
denly in  sight  of  the  broad  green  line  of  the  valley  of  the  Riviere 
Boisee,  (wooded  river,)  black  near  the  gorge  where  it  debouches 
into  the  plains,  with  high  precipices  of  basalt,  between  walls  of 
which  it  passes,  on  emerging  from  the  mountains.  Following  with 
the  eye  its  upward  course,  it  appears  to  be  shut  in  among  lofty 
mountains,  confining  its  valley  in  a  very  rugged  country. 

Descending  the  hills,  after  travelling  a  few  miles  along  the  high 
plain,  the  road  brought  us  down  upon  the  bottoms  of  the  river, 

536 


which  is  a  beautiful  rapid  stream,  with  clear  mountain  water,  and,  as 
the  name  indicates,  well  wooded  with  some  varieties  of  timber— 
among  which  are  handsome  cottonwoods.  Such  a  stream  had  be- 
come quite  a  novelty  in  this  country,  and  we  were  delighted  this 
afternoon  to  make  a  pleasant  camp  under  fine  old  trees  again.  There 
were  several  Indian  encampments  scattered  along  the  river;  and  a 
number  of  their  inhabitants,  in  the  course  of  the  evening,  came  to 
the  camp  on  horseback  with  dried  and  fresh  fish  to  trade.  The  eve- 
ning was  clear,  and  the  temperature  at  sunset  57°. 

At  the  time  of  the  first  occupation  of  this  region  by  parties  en- 
gaged in  the  fur  trade,  a  small  party  of  men  under  the  command  of 

Reid  [John  Reed],  constituting  all  the  garrison  of  a  little  fort 

on  this  river,  were  surprised  and  massacred  by  the  Indians;  and  to 
this  event  the  stream  owes  its  occasional  name  of  Retd's  river. 

On  the  8th  we  travelled  about  26  miles,  the  ridge  on  the  right  hav- 
ing scattered  pines  on  the  upper  parts;  and,  continuing  the  next  day 
our  road  along  the  river  bottom,  after  a  day's  travel  of  24  miles  we 
encamped  in  the  evening  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  a  mile 
above  the  mouth,  and  early  the  next  morning  arrived  at  Fort  Boise. 
This  is  a  simple  dwelling-house  on  the  right  bank  of  Snake  river, 
about  a  mile  below  the  mouth  of  Riviere  Boissee;  and  on  our  ar- 
rival we  were  received  with  an  agreeable  hospitality  by  Mr.  Payette,®^ 
an  officer  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  in  charge  of  the  fort;  all  of 
whose  garrison  consisted  in  a  Canadian  engage. 

Here  the  road  recrosses  the  river,  which  is  broad  and  deep;  but, 
with  our  good  boat,  aided  by  two  canoes,  which  were  found  at  the 
place,  the  camp  was  very  soon  transferred  to  the  left  bank.  Here  we 
found  ourselves  again  surrounded  by  the  sage;  artemisia  tridentata, 
and  the  different  shrubs  which  during  our  voyage  had  always  made 
their  appearance  abundantly  on  saline  soils,  being  here  the  prevail- 
ing and  almost   the  only  plants.  Among   them   the   surface   was 


68.  An  unlucky  Irish  trader,  John  Reed  had  gone  to  the  Snake  River  re- 
gion as  one  of  the  Astorians  in  the  summer  of  1813,  building  a  post  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Boise  and  the  Snake.  He  and  his  party  were  massacred  in 
Jan. 1814  (porter). 

69.  Francjois  Payette  (fl.  1810-44),  who  came  to  Fort  Boise  in  1837,  had 
been  in  the  Pacific  Northwest  for  more  than  thirty  years.  A  French  Canadian, 
he  left  New  York  in  1811  as  an  engage  with  John  Jacob  Astor's  Pacific  Fur 
Company.  When  Astor  sold  his  northwest  properties  to  the  North  West  Com- 
pany, Payette  transferred  to  that  enterprise  and  was  with  it  when  it  ultimately 
merged  with  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  (haines  fl]). 

537 


covered  with  the  usual  saHne  efflorescences,  which  here  consist  al- 
most entirely  of  carbonate  of  soda,  with  a  small  portion  of  chloride 
of  sodium.  Mr.  Payette  had  made  but  slight  attempts  at  cultivation, 
his  efforts  being  limited  to  raising  a  few  vegetables,  in  which  he 
succeeded  tolerably  well;  the  post  being  principally  supported  by 
salmon.  He  was  very  hospitable  and  kind  to  us,  and  we  made  a  sen- 
sible impression  upon  all  his  comestibles;  but  our  principal  inroad 
was  into  the  dairy,  which  was  abundantly  supplied,  stock  appearing 
to  thrive  extremely  well;  and  we  had  an  unusual  luxury  in  a  present 
of  fresh  butter,  which  was,  however,  by  no  means  equal  to  that  of 
Fort  Hall— probably  from  some  accidental  cause.  During  the  day  we 
remained  here,  there  were  considerable  numbers  of  miserable  half- 
naked  Indians  around  the  fort,  who  had  arrived  from  the  neighbor- 
ing mountains.  During  the  summer,  the  only  subsistence  of  these 
people  is  derived  from  the  salmon,  of  which  they  are  not  provident 
enough  to  lay  up  a  sufficient  store  for  the  winter,  during  which 
many  of  them  die  from  absolute  starvation. 

Many  little  accounts  and  scattered  histories,  together  with  an  ac- 
quaintance which  I  gradually  acquired  of  their  modes  of  life,  had 
left  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  this  vast  region  pictured  in  my 
mind  as  a  race  of  people  whose  great  and  constant  occupation  was 
the  means  of  procuring  a  subsistence;  and  though  want  of  space,  and 
other  reasons,  will  prevent  me  from  detailing  the  many  incidents 
which  made  these  things  familiar  to  me,  this  great  feature  among 
the  characteristics  of  the  country  will  gradually  be  forced  upon  your 
mind. 

Pointing  to  a  group  of  Indians  who  had  just  arrived  from  the 
mountains  on  the  left  side  of  the  valley,  and  who  were  regarding  our 
usual  appliances  of  civilization  with  an  air  of  bewildered  curiosity, 
Mr.  Payette  informed  me  that,  every  year  since  his  arrival  at  this 
post,  he  had  unsuccessfully  endeavored  to  induce  these  people  to  lay 
up  a  store  of  salmon  for  their  winter  provision.  While  the  summer 
weather  and  the  salmon  lasted,  they  lived  contentedly  and  happily, 
scattered  along  the  different  streams  where  the  fish  were  to  be 
found;  and  as  soon  as  the  winter  snows  began  to  fall,  little  smokes 
would  be  seen  rising  among  the  mountains,  where  they  would  be 
found  in  miserable  groups,  starving  out  the  winter;  and  sometimes, 
according  to  the  general  belief,  reduced  to  the  horror  of  cannibalism 
—the  strong,  of  course,  preying  on  the  weak.  Certain  it  is,  they  are 
driven  to  any  extremity  for  food,  and  eat  every  insect,  and  every 

538 


creeping  thing,  however  loathsome  and  repulsive.  Snails,  lizards, 
ants — all  are  devoured  with  the  readiness  and  greediness  of  mere 
animals. 

In  common  with  all  the  other  Indians  we  had  encountered  since 
reaching  the  Pacific  waters,  these  people  use  the  Shoshonee  or  Snake 
language,  which  you  will  have  occasion  to  remark,  in  the  course  of 
the  narrative,  is  the  universal  language  over  a  very  extensive  region. 

On  the  evening  of  the  10th,  I  obtained,  with  the  usual  observa- 
tions, a  very  excellent  emersion  of  the  first  satellite,  agreeing  very 
nearly  with  the  chronometer.  From  these  observations,  the  longitude 
of  the  fort  is  116°  4/00";  latitude  43°  49' 22",  and  elevation  above 
the  sea  2,100  feet. 

Sitting  by  the  fire  on  the  river  bank,  and  waiting  for  the  im- 
mersion of  the  satellite,  which  did  not  take  place  until  after  mid- 
night, we  heard  the  monotonous  song  of  the  Indians,  with  which 
they  accompany  a  certain  game  of  which  they  are  fond.  Of  the 
poetry  we  could  not  judge,  but  the  music  was  miserable. 

October  U. — The  morning  was  clear,  with  a  light  breeze  from  the 
east,  and  a  temperature  at  sunrise  of  33°.  A  part  of  a  bullock  pur- 
chased at  the  fort,  together  with  the  boat  to  assist  him  in  crossing, 
was  left  here  for  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  and  at  11  o'clock  we  resumed  our 
journey;  and  directly  leaving  the  river,  and  crossing  the  artemisia 
plain,  in  several  ascents  we  reached  the  foot  of  a  ridge,  where  the 
road  entered  a  dry  sandy  hollow,  up  which  it  continued  to  the  head; 
and,  crossing  a  dividing  ridge,  entered  a  similar  one.  We  met  here 
two  poor  emigrants,  (Irishmen,)  who  had  lost  their  horses  two 
days  since — probably  stolen  by  the  Indians;  and  were  returning  to  the 
fort,  in  hopes  to  hear  something  of  them  there.  They  had  recently 
had  nothing  to  eat;  and  I  halted  to  unpack  an  animal,  and  gave 
them  meat  for  their  dinner.  In  this  hollow,  the  artemisia  is  par- 
tially displaced  on  the  hill  sides  by  grass;  and  descending  it  

miles,  about  sunset  we  reached  the  Riviere  aux  Malheurs,  (the  un- 
fortunate or  unlucky  river,)  a  considerable  stream,  with  an  average 
breadth  of  50  feet,  and,  at  this  time,  18  inches  depth  of  water.^^ 

The  bottom  lands  were  generally  one  and  a  half  mile  broad,  cov- 


70.  The  expedition  had  crossed  the  present  eastern  boundary  of  Oregon  and 
reached  the  river  named  the  Malheur  by  Peter  Skene  Ogden  when  he  traveled 
in  the  region  in  1825-26.  Ogden  called  it  an  "unfortunate"  stream  because 
property  hidden  there  by  employees  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  was 
stolen  by  Indians  (mac  Arthur,  383). 

539 


ered  principally  with  long  dry  grass;  and  we  had  difficulty  to  find 
sufficient  good  grass  for  the  camp.  With  the  exception  of  a  bad 
place  of  a  few  hundred  yards  long,  which  occurred  in  rounding  a 
point  of  hill  to  reach  the  ford  of  the  river,  the  road  during  the  day 
had  been  very  good. 

October  12.— The  morning  was  clear  and  calm,  and  the  ther- 
mometer at  sunrise  23°.  My  attention  was  attracted  by  a  smoke  on 
the  right  side  of  the  river,  a  little  below  the  ford,  where  I  found  on 
the  low  bank,  near  the  water,  a  considerable  number  of  hot  springs, 
in  which  the  temperature  of  the  water  was  193°.  The  ground,  which 
was  too  hot  for  the  naked  foot,  was  covered  above  and  below  the 
springs  with  an  incrustation  of  common  salt,  very  white  and  good, 
and  fine  grained. 

Leading  for  5  miles  up  a  broad  dry  branch  of  the  Malheurs  river, 
the  road  entered  a  sandy  hollow,  where  the  surface  was  rendered 
firm  by  the  admixture  of  another  rock;  being  good  and  level  until 
arriving  near  the  head  of  the  ravine,  where  it  became  a  little  rocky, 
and  we  met  with  a  number  of  sharp  ascents  over  an  undulating 
surface.  Crossing  here  a  dividing  ridge,  it  became  an  excellent  road 
of  gradual  descent  down  a  very  marked  hollow;  in  which,  after  10 
miles,  willows  began  to  appear  in  the  dry  bed  of  a  head  of  the 
Riviere  aux  Bouleaux,  (Birch  river;)  and  descending  7  miles,  we 
found,  at  its  junction  with  another  branch,  a  little  water,  not  very 
good  or  abundant,  but  sufficient  in  case  of  necessity  for  a  camp. 
Crossing  Birch  river  [Birch  Creek],  we  continued  for  about  4  miles 
across  a  point  of  hill;  the  country  on  the  left  being  entirely  moun- 
tainous, with  no  level  spot  to  be  seen;  whence  we  descended  to 
Snake  river — here  a  fine-looking  stream,  with  a  large  body  of  water 
and  a  smooth  current;  although  we  hear  the  roar,  and  see  below 
us  the  commencement  of  rapids  where  it  enters  among  the  hills.  It 
forms  here  a  deep  bay,  with  a  low  sand  island  in  the  midst;  and  its 
course  among  the  mountains  is  agreeably  exchanged  for  the  black 
volcanic  rock.  The  weather  during  the  day  had  been  very  bright  and 
extremely  hot;  but,  as  usual,  so  soon  as  the  sun  went  down,  it  was 
necessary  to  put  on  overcoats. 

I  obtained  this  evening  an  observation  of  an  emersion  of  the  first 
satellite,  and  our  observations  of  the  evening  place  this  encampment 
in  latitude  44°  1/36",  and  longitude  116°  56' 45",  which  is  the  mean 
of  the  results  from  the  satellite  and  chronometer.  The  elevation 


540 


above  the  sea  1,880  feet.  At  this  encampment,  the  grass  is  scanty  and 
poor. 

October  13.— The  morning  was  bright,  with  the  temperature  at 
sunset  28°.  The  horses  had  strayed  off  during  the  night,  probably  in 
search  of  grass;  and,  after  a  considerable  delay,  we  had  succeeded 
in  finding  all  but  two,  when,  about  9  o'clock,  we  heard  the  sound  of 
an  Indian  song  and  drum  approaching;  and  shortly  after,  three 
Cayuse  Indians  appeared  in  sight,  bringing  with  them  the  two  ani- 
mals. They  belonged  to  a  party  which  had  been  on  a  buffalo  hunt  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  were  hurrying  home 
in  advance.  We  presented  them  with  some  tobacco,  and  other  things, 
with  which  they  appeared  well  satisfied,  and  moderating  their  pace, 
travelled  in  company  with  us. 

We  were  now  about  to  leave  the  valley  of  the  great  southern 
branch  of  the  Columbia  river,  to  which  the  absence  of  timber,  and 
the  scarcity  of  water,  give  the  appearance  of  a  desert,  to  enter  a 
mountainous  region  where  the  soil  is  good,  and  in  which  the  face  of 
the  country  is  covered  with  nutritious  grasses  and  dense  forest — land 
embracing  many  varieties  of  trees  peculiar  to  the  country,  and  on 
which  the  timber  exhibits  a  luxuriance  of  growth  unknown  to  the 
eastern  part  of  the  continent  and  to  Europe.  This  mountainous  re- 
gion connects  itself  in  the  southward  and  westward  with  the  ele- 
vated  country  belonging  to  the  Cascade  or  California  range ;  and,  as 
will  be  remarked  in  the  course  of  the  narrative,  forms  the  eastern 
limit  of  the  fertile  and  timbered  lands  along  the  desert  and  moun- 
tainous region  included  within  the  Great  Basin '^ — a  term  which  I 
apply  to  the  intermediate  region  between  the  Rocky  mountains  and 
the  next  range,  containing  many  lakes,  with  their  own  system  of 
rivers  and  creeks,  (of  which  the  Great  Salt  is  the  principal,)  and 
which  have  no  connexion  with  the  ocean,  or  the  great  rivers  which 
flow  into  it.  This  Great  Basin  is  yet  to  be  adequately  explored.  And 
here,  on  quitting  the  banks  of  a  sterile  river,  to  enter  on  arable 
mountains,  the  remark  may  be  made,  that,  on  this  western  slope  of 
our  continent,  the  usual  order  or  distribution  of  good  and  bad  soil  is 
often  reversed;  the  river  and  creek  bottoms  being  often  sterile,  and 


71.  Here  JCF  mentions  for  the  first  time  a  geographical  feature  of  the 
western  U.S.  which  he  was  first  to  recognize.  It  must  he  remembered  that  his 
report  was  written  at  the  completion  of  the  expedition,  when  he  had  seen  a 
great  deal  of  the  Basin. 


541 


darkened  with  the  gloomy  and  barren  artemisia;  while  the  moun- 
tain is  often  fertile,  and  covered  with  rich  grass,  pleasant  to  the  eye, 
and  good  for  flocks  and  herds. 

Leaving  entirely  the  Snake  river,  which  is  said  henceforth  to  pur- 
sue its  course  through  caiions,  amidst  rocky  and  impracticable 
mountains,  where  there  is  no  possibility  of  travelling  with  animals, 
we  ascended  a  long  and  somewhat  steep  hill;  and  crossing  the  divid- 
ing ridge,  came  down  into  the  valley  of  Burnt  river,  which  here 
looks  like  a  hole  among  the  hills.  The  average  breadth  of  the  stream 
here  is  30  feet;  it  is  well  fringed  with  the  usual  small  timber;  and  the 
soil  in  the  bottoms  is  good,  with  better  grass  than  we  had  lately  been 
accustomed  to  see. 

We  now  travelled  through  a  very  mountainous  country;  the 
stream  running  rather  in  a  ravine  than  a  valley,  and  the  road  is  de- 
cidedly bad  and  dangerous  for  single  wagons,  frequently  crossing 
the  stream  where  the  water  is  sometimes  deep;  and  all  the  day  the 
animals  were  fatigued  in  climbing  up  and  descending  a  succession  of 
steep  ascents,  to  avoid  the  precipitous  hill  sides;  and  the  common 
trail,  which,  leads  along  the  mountain  side  at  places  where  the  river 
strikes  the  base,  is  sometimes  bad  even  for  a  horseman.  The  moun- 
tains along  this  day's  journey  were  composed,  near  the  river,  of  a 
slaty  calcareous  rock  in  a  metamorphic  condition.  It  appears  orig- 
inally to  have  been  a  slaty  sedimentary  limestone,  but  its  present 
condition  indicates  that  it  has  been  altered,  and  has  become  partially 
crystalline — probably  from  the  proximity  of  volcanic  rocks.  But 
though  travelling  was  slow  and  fatiguing  to  the  animals,  we  were 
delighted  with  the  appearance  of  the  country,  which  was  green  and 
refreshing  after  our  tedious  journey  down  the  parched  valley  of 
Snake  river.  The  mountains  were  covered  with  good  bunch  grass, 
(festuca;)  the  water  of  the  streams  was  cold  and  pure;  their  bot- 
toms were  handsomely  wooded  with  various  kinds  of  trees;  and 
huge  and  lofty  and  picturesque  precipices  were  displayed  where  the 
river  cut  through  the  mountains. 

We  found  in  the  evening  some  good  grass  and  rushes;  and  en- 
camped among  large  timber,  principally  birch,  which  had  been 
recently  burnt  and  blackened,  and  almost  destroyed  by  fire.  The 
night  was  calm  and  tolerably  clear,  with  the  thermometer  at  sunset 
at  59°.  Our  journey  to-day  was  about  20  miles. 

October  14. — The  day  was  clear  and  calm,  with  a  temperature  at 
sunrise  of  46°.  After  travelling  about  three  miles  up  the  valley,  we 

542 


found  the  river  shut  up  by  precipices  in  a  kind  of  canon,  and  the 
road  makes  a  circuit  over  the  mountains.  In  the  afternoon  we  reached 
the  river  again,  by  another  httle  ravine;  and,  after  traveUing  along 
it  for  a  few  miles,  left  it  enclosed  among  rude  mountains;  and, 
ascending  a  smaller  branch,  encamped  on  it  about  5  o'clock,  very 
much  elevated  above  the  valley.  The  view  was  everywhere  limited 
by  mountains,  on  which  were  no  longer  seen  the  black  and  barren 
rocks,  but  a  fertile  soil,  with  excellent  grass,  and  partly  well  covered 
with  pine.  I  have  never  seen  a  wagon  road  equally  bad  in  the  same 
space,  as  this  of  yesterday  and  to-day.  I  noticed  where  one  wagon 
had  been  overturned  twice,  in  a  very  short  distance;  and  it  was  sur- 
prising to  me  that  those  wagons  which  were  in  the  rear,  and  could 
not  have  had  much  assistance,  got  through  at  all.  Still,  there  is  no 
mud ;  and  the  road  has  one  advantage,  in  being  perfecdy  firm.  The 
day  had  been  warm  and  very  pleasant,  and  the  night  was  perfectly 
clear. 

October  15.— The  thermometer  at  daylight  was  42°,  and  at  sun- 
rise 40° ;  clouds,  which  were  scattered  over  all  the  sky,  disappeared 
with  the  rising  sun.  The  trail  did  not  much  improve  until  we  had 
crossed  the  dividing  grounds  between  the  Brule  (Burnt)  and  Pow- 
der rivers.  The  rock  displayed  on  the  mountains,  as  we  approached 
the  summit,  was  a  compact  trap,  decomposing  on  the  exposed  sur- 
faces, and  apparently  an  altered  argillaceous  sandstone,  containing 
small  crystalline  nodules  of  anolcime,  apparently  filling  cavities 
originally  existing.  From  the  summit  here,  the  whole  horizon  shows 
high  mountains;  no  high  plain  or  level  is  to  be  seen;  and  on  the 
left,  from  south  around  by  the  west  to  north,  the  mountains  are 
black  with  pines;  while,  through  the  remaining  space  to  the  east- 
ward, they  are  bald  with  the  exception  of  some  scattered  pines.  You 
will  remark  that  we  are  now  entering  a  region  where  all  the  ele- 
vated parts  are  covered  with  dense  and  heavy  forests.  From  the 
dividing  grounds  we  descended  by  a  mountain  road  to  Powder  river, 
on  an  old  bed  of  which  we  encamped.  Descending  from  the  summit, 
we  enjoyed  a  picturesque  view  of  high  rocky  mountains  on  the  right, 
illuminated  by  the  setting  sun. 

From  the  heights  we  had  looked  in  vain  for  a  well-known  land- 
mark  on  Powder  river,  which  had  been  described  to  me  by  Mr. 
Payette  as  I'arbre  seul  (the  lone  tree;)  and,  on  arriving  at  the  river, 
we  found  a  fine  tall  pine  stretched  on  the  ground,  which  had  been 
felled  by  some  inconsiderate  emigrant  axe.  It  had  been  a  beacon  on 

543 


the  road  for  many  years  past.  Our  Cayuses  had  become  impatient 
to  reach  their  homes,  and  travelled  on  ahead  to-day;  and  this  after- 
noon we  were  visited  by  several  Indians,  who  belonged  to  the  tribes 
on  the  Columbia.  They  were  on  horseback,  and  were  out  on  a  hunt- 
ing excursion,  but  had  obtained  no  better  game  than  a  large  gray 
hare,  of  which  each  had  some  six  or  seven  hanging  to  his  saddle. 
We  were  also  visited  by  an  Indian  who  had  his  lodge  and  family  in 
the  mountain  to  the  left.  He  was  in  want  of  ammunition,  and 
brought  with  him  a  beaver  skin  to  exchange,  and  which  he  valued  at 
six  charges  of  powder  and  ball.  I  learned  from  him  that  there  are 
very  few  of  these  animals  remaining  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

The  temperature  at  sunset  was  61°,  and  the  evening  clear.  I  ob- 
tained, with  other  observations,  an  immersion  and  emersion  of  the 
third  satellite.  Elevation  3,100  feet. 

October  16. — For  several  weeks  the  weather  in  the  daytime  has 
been  very  beautiful,  clear,  and  warm;  but  the  nights,  in  comparison, 
are  very  cold.  During  the  night  there  was  ice  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick  in  the  lodge;  and  at  daylight  the  thermometer  was  at  16°,  and 
the  same  at  sunrise;  the  weather  being  calm  and  clear.  The  annual 
vegetation  now  is  nearly  gone,  almost  all  the  plants  being  out  of 
bloom. 

Last  night  two  of  our  horses  had  run  off  again,  which  delayed  us 
until  noon;  and  we  made  to  day  but  a  short  journey  of  13  miles,  the 
road  being  very  good,  and  encamped  in  a  fine  bottom  of  Powder 
river. 

The  thermometer  at  sunset  was  at  61°,  with  an  easterly  wind,  and 
partially  clear  sky;  and  the  day  has  been  quite  pleasant  and  warm, 
though  finer  and  clearer  towards  evening. 

October  17. — Thermometer  at  sunrise  25°.  The  weather  at  day- 
light was  fine,  and  the  sky  without  a  cloud;  but  these  came  up,  or 
were  formed  with  the  sun,  and  at  7  were  thick  over  all  the  sky.  Just 
now,  this  appears  to  be  the  regular  course — clear  and  brilliant  dur- 
ing the  night,  and  cloudy  during  the  day.  There  is  snow  yet  visible 
in  the  neighboring  mountains,  which  yesterday  extended  along  our 
route  to  the  left,  in  a  lofty  and  dark -blue  range,  having  much  the 
appearance  of  the  Wind  river  mountains.  It  is  probable  that  they 
have  received  their  name  of  the  Blue  moutitains  from  the  dark-blue 
appearance  given  to  them  by  the  pines.  We  travelled  this  morning 
across  the  affluents  to  Powder  river,  the  road  being  good,  firm,  and 
level;  and  the  country  became  constantly  more  pleasant  arid  interest- 

544 


ing.  The  soil  appeared  to  be  very  deep,  and  is  black  and  extremely 
good,  as  well  among  the  hollows  of  the  hills  on  the  elevated  plats, 
as  on  the  river  bottoms ;  the  vegetation  being  such  as  is  usually  found 
in  good  ground.  The  following  analytical  result  shows  the  precise 
qualities  of  this  soil,  and  will  justify  to  science  the  character  of  fer- 
tility which  the  eye  attributes  to  it: 

Analysis  of  Powder  river  soil. 

Silica 7230 

Alumina 6.25 

Carbonate  of  lime 6.86 

Carbonate  of  magnesia        ....  4.62 

Oxide  of  iron 1.20 

Organic  matter 4.50 

Water  and  loss 4.27 


100.00 


From  the  waters  of  this  stream,  the  road  ascended  by  a  good  and 
moderate  ascent  to  a  dividing  ridge,  but  immediately  entered  upon 
ground  covered  with  fragments  of  an  altered  siliceous  slate,  which 
are  in  many  places  large,  and  render  the  road  racking  to  a  car- 
riage. In  this  rock  the  planes  of  deposition  are  distinctly  preserved, 
and  the  metamorphism  is  evidently  due  to  the  proximity  of  volcanic 
rocks.  On  either  side,  the  mountains  here  are  densely  covered  with 
tall  and  handsome  trees;  and,  mingled  with  the  green  of  a  variety 
of  pines,  is  the  yellow  of  the  European  larch  (pifjus  larix,)  which 
loses  its  leaves  in  the  fall.  From  its  present  color,  we  were  enabled 
to  see  that  it  forms  a  large  proportion  of  the  forests  on  the  moun- 
tains, and  is  here  a  magnificent  tree,  attaining  sometimes  the  height 
of  200  feet,  which  I  believe  is  elsewhere  unknown.  About  two  in 
the  afternoon  we  reached  a  high  point  of  the  dividing  ridge,  from 
which  we  obtained  a  ijood  view  of  the  Grand  Rond — a  beautiful 
level  basin,  or  mountain  valley,  covered  with  good  grass,  on  a  rich 
soil,  abundandy  watered,  and  surrounded  by  high  and  well-timbered 
mountains;  and  its  name  descriptive  of  its  form — the  great  circle. 
It  is  a  place — one  of  the  few  we  have  seen  in  our  journey  so  far — 
where  a  farmer  would  delight  to  establish  himself,  if  he  were  con- 
tent to  live  in  the  seclusion  which  it  imposes.  It  is  about  20  miles  in 
diameter;  and  may,  in  time,  form  a  superb  county.  Probably  with 
the  view  of  avoiding  a  circuit,  the  wagons  had  directly  descended 

545 


into  the  Rond  by  the  face  of  a  hill  so  very  rocky  and  continuously 
steep  as  to  be  apparently  impracticable;  and,  following  down  on 
their  trail,  we  encamped  on  one  of  the  branches  of  the  Grand  Rond 
river,  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the  hill.""  I  had  remarked,  in  de- 
scending, some  very  white  spots  glistening  on  the  plain,  and,  going 
out  in  that  direction  after  we  had  encamped,  I  found  them  to  be  the 
bed  of  a  dry  salt  lake,  or  marsh,  very  firm  and  bare,  which  was 
covered  thickly  with  a  fine  white  powder,  containing  a  large  quan- 
tity of  carbonate  of  soda,  (thirty-three  in  one  hundred  parts.) 

The  old  grass  had  been  lately  burnt  off  from  the  surrounding 
hills,  and,  wherever  the  fire  had  passed,  there  was  a  recent  growth 
of  strong,  green,  and  vigorous  grass;  and  the  soil  of  the  level  prairie, 
which  sweeps  directly  up  to  the  foot  of  the  surrounding  mountains, 
appears  to  be  very  rich,  producing  flax  spontaneously  and  luxuriantly 
in  various  places. 

Analysis  of  the  Grand  Rond  soil. 

Silica 70.81 

Alumina 10.97 

Lime  and  magnesia 1.38 

Oxide  of  iron 2.21 

Vegetable  matter,  partly  decomposed        .  8.16 

Water  and  loss 5.46 

Phosphate  of  lime 1.01 

100.00 


The  elevation  of  this  encampment  is  2,940  feet  above  the  sea. 

October  18. — It  began  to  rain  an  hour  before  sunrise,  and  contin- 
ued until  10  o'clock;  the  sky  entirely  overcast,  and  the  temperature 
at  sunrise  48°. 

We  resumed  our  journey  somewhat  later  than  usual,  travelling  in 
a  nearly  north  direction  across  this  beautiful  valley;  and  about  noon 
reached  a  place  on  one  of  the  principal  streams,  where  I  had  de- 
termined to  leave  the  emigrant  trail,  in  the  expectation  of  finding  a 
more  direct  and  better  road  across  the  Blue  mountains.  At  this  place 
the  emigrants  appeared  to  have  held  some  consultation  as  to  their 
further  route,  and  finally  turned  directly  off  to  the  left;  reaching  the 


72.  The  valley  and  river  in  Union  County,  Ore.,  are  properly  spelled  Grand 
Ronde.  JCF  is  moving  north  into  what  is  now  southeastern  Washington. 

546 


foot  of  the  mountain  in  about  three  miles,  which  they  ascended  by 
a  hill  as  steep  and  difficult  as  that  by  which  we  had  yesterday  de- 
scended to  the  Rond.  Quitting,  therefore,  this  road,  which,  after  a 
very  rough  crossing,  issues  from  the  mountains  by  the  heads  of  the 
Umat'ilah  [Umatilla]  river,  we  continued  our  northern  course  across 
the  valley,  following  an  Indian  trail  which  had  been  indicated  to  me 
by  Mr.  Payette,  and  encamped  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
Grand  Rond,  on  a  slough-like  stream  of  very  deep  water,  without 
any  apparent  current.  There  are  some  pines  here  on  the  low  hills  at 
the  creek;  and  in  the  northwest  corner  of  the  Rond  is  a  very  heavy 
body  of  timber,  which  descends  into  the  plain.  The  clouds,  which 
had  rested  very  low  among  the  mountain  sides  during  the  day,  rose 
gradually  up  in  the  afternoon;  and  in  the  evening  the  sky  was  al- 
most entirely  clear,  with  a  temperature  at  sunset  of  47°.  Some  in- 
different observations  placed  the  camp  in  longitude  117°  28' 26", 
latitude  45°  26' 47";  and  the  elevation  was  2,600  feet  above  the  sea. 

October  19. — This  morning  the  mountains  were  hidden  by  fog; 
there  was  a  heavy  dew  during  the  night,  in  which  the  exposed  ther- 
mometer at  daylight  stood  at  32°,  and  at  sunrise  the  temperature  was 
35°. 

We  passed  out  of  the  Grand  Rond  by  a  fine  road  along  the  creek, 
which,  for  a  short  distance,  runs  in  a  kind  of  rocky  chasm.  Crossing 
a  low  point,  which  was  a  little  rocky,  the  trail  conducted  into  the 
open  valley  of  the  stream — a  handsome  place  for  farms;  the  soil, 
even  of  the  hills,  being  rich  and  black.  Passing  through  a  point  of 
pines,  which  bore  evidences  of  being  much  frequented  by  the  Indians, 
and  in  which  the  trees  were  sometimes  apparently  200  feet  high  and 
3  to  7  feet  in  diameter,  we  halted  for  a  few  minutes  in  the  afternoon 
at  the  foot  of  the  Blue  mountains,  on  a  branch  of  the  Grand  Rond 
river,  at  an  elevation  of  2,709  feet.  Resuming  our  journey,  we  com- 
menced the  ascent  of  the  mountain  through  an  open  pine  forest  of 
large  and  stately  trees,  among  which  the  balsam  pine  made  its  ap- 
pearance; the  road  being  good,  with  the  exception  of  one  steep 
ascent,  with  a  corresponding  descent,  which  might  both  have  been 
easily  avoided  by  opening  a  way  for  a  short  distance  through  the 
timber.  It  would  have  been  well  had  we  encamped  on  the  stream 
where  we  had  halted  below,  as  the  night  overtook  us  on  the  moun- 
tain, and  we  were  obliged  to  encamp  without  water,  and  tie  up  the 
animals  to  the  trees  for  the  night.  We  had  halted  on  a  smooth  open 
place  of  a  narrow  ridge,  which  descended  very  rapidly  to  a  ravine 

547 


or  piney  hollow,  at  a  considerable  distance  below;  and  it  was  quite 
a  pretty  spot,  had  there  been  water  near.  But  the  jfiires  at  night  look 
very  cheerless  after  a  day's  march,  when  there  is  no  preparation  for 
supper  going  on;  and,  after  sitting  some  time  around  the  blazing 
logs,  Mr.  Preuss  and  Carson,  with  several  others,  volunteered  to  take 
the  India  rubber  buckets  and  go  down  into  the  ravine  in  search  of 
water.  It  was  a  very  difficult  way  in  the  darkness  down  the  slippery 
side  of  the  steep  mountain,  and  harder  still  to  climb  about  half  a 
mile  up  again;  but  they  found  the  water,  and  the  cup  of  coffee 
(which  it  enabled  us  to  make)  and  bread  were  only  enjoyed  with 
greater  pleasure. 

At  sunset  the  temperature  was  46°;  the  evening  remarkably  clear; 
and  I  obtained  an  emersion  of  the  first  satellite,  which  does  not  give 
a  good  result,  although  the  observation  was  a  very  good  one.  The 
chronometric  longitude  was  117°  28' 34",  latitude  45°  38' 07",  and  we 
had  ascended  to  an  elevation  of  3,830  feet.  It  appeared  to  have 
snowed  yesterday  on  the  mountains,  their  summits  showing  very 
white  to-day. 

October  20. — There  was  a  heavy  white  frost  during  the  night,  and 
at  sunrise  the  temperature  was  37°. 

The  animals  had  eaten  nothing  during  the  night;  and  we  made  an 
early  start,  continuing  our  route  among  the  pines,  which  were  more 
dense  than  yesterday,  and  still  retained  their  magnificent  size.  The 
larches  cluster  together  in  masses  on  the  sides  of  the  mountains, 
and  their  yellow  foliage  contrasts  handsomely  with  the  green  of  the 
balsam  and  other  pines.  After  a  few  miles  we  ceased  to  see  any  pines, 
and  the  timber  consisted  of  several  varieties  of  spruce,  larch,  and 
balsam  pine,  which  have  a  regularly  conical  figure.  These  trees  ap- 
peared from  60  to  nearly  200  feet  in  height;  the  usual  circumference 
being  10  to  12  feet,  and  in  the  pines  sometimes  21  feet.  In  open 
places  near  the  summit,  these  trees  became  less  high  and  more 
branching,  the  conical  form  having  a  greater  base.  The  instrument 
carriage  occasioned  much  delay,  it  being  frequently  necessary  to  fell 
trees  and  remove  the  fallen  timber.  The  trail  we  were  following  led 
up  a  long  spur,  with  a  very  gradual  and  gentle  rise. 

At  the  end  of  three  miles,  we  halted  at  an  open  place  near  the 
summit,  from  which  we  enjoyed  a  fine  view  over  the  mountainous 
country  where  we  had  lately  travelled,  to  take  a  barometrical  ob- 
servation at  the  height  of  4,760  feet. 

After  travelling  occasionally  through  open  places  in  the  forest,  we 

548 


were  obliged  to  cut  a  way  through  a  dense  body  of  timber,  from 
which  we  emerged  on  an  open  mountain  side,  where  we  found  a 
number  of  small  springs,  and  encamped  after  a  day's  journey  of  10 
miles.  Our  elevation  here  was  5,000  feet. 

October  21. — There  was  a  very  heavy  white  frost  during  the  night, 
and  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  was  30°. 

We  continued  to  travel  through  the  forest,  in  which  the  road  was 
rendered  difficult  by  fallen  trunks,  and  obstructed  by  many  small 
trees,  which  it  was  necessary  to  cut  down.  But  these  are  only  acci- 
dental difficulties,  which  could  easily  be  removed,  and  a  very  excel- 
lent road  may  be  had  through  this  pass,  with  no  other  than  very 
moderate  ascents  or  declivities.  A  laborious  day,  which  had  advanced 
us  only  six  miles  on  our  road,  brought  us  in  the  afternoon  to  an 
opening  in  the  forest,  in  which  there  was  a  fine  mountain  meadow, 
with  good  grass,  and  a  large  clear-water  stream — one  of  the  head 
branches  of  the  Umatilah  river.  During  this  day's  journey,  the 
barometer  was  broken;  and  the  elevations  above  the  sea,  hereafter 
given,  depend  upon  the  temperature  of  boiling  water.  Some  of 
the  white  spruces  which  I  measured  to-day  were  twelve  feet  in  cir- 
cumference, and  one  of  the  larches  ten;  but  eight  feet  was  the 
average  circumference  of  those  measured  along  the  road.  I  held  in 
my  hand  a  tape  line  as  I  walked  along,  in  order  to  form  some  cor- 
rect idea  of  the  size  of  the  timber.  Their  height  appeared  to  be  from 
100  to  180,  and  perhaps  200  feet,  and  the  trunks  of  the  larches  were 
sometimes  100  feet  without  a  limb;  but  the  white  spruces  were  gen- 
erally covered  with  branches  nearly  to  the  root.  All  these  trees  have 
their  branches,  particularly  the  lower  ones,  declining. 

October  22. — The  white  frost  this  morning  was  like  snow  on  the 
ground;  the  ice  was  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  on  the  creek,  and 
the  thermometer  at  sunrise  was  at  20°.  But,  in  a  few  hours,  the  day 
became  warm  and  pleasant,  and  our  road  over  the  mountains 
was  delightful  and  full  of  enjoyment. 

The  trail  passed  sometimes  through  very  thick  young  timber,  in 
which  there  was  much  cutting  to  be  done ;  but,  after  travelling  a  few 
miles,  the  mountains  became  more  bald,  and  we  reached  a  point 
from  which  there  was  a  very  extensive  view  in  the  northwest.  We 
were  here  on  the  western  verge  of  the  Blue  mountains,  long  spurs  of 
which,  very  precipitous  on  either  side,  extended  down  into  the  val- 
ley, the  waters  of  the  mountain  roaring  between  them.  On  our  right 
was  a  mountain  plateau,  covered  with  a  dense  forest;  and  to  the 

549 


westward,  immediately  below  us,  was  the  great  Nez  Perce  (pierced 
nose)  prairie,  in  which  dark  lines  of  timber  indicated  the  course  of 
many  affluents  to  a  considerable  stream  that  was  seen  pursuing  its 
way  across  the  plain  towards  what  appeared  to  be  the  Columbia 
river.  This  I  knew  to  be  the  Walahwalah  [Walla  Walla]  river,  and 
occasional  spots  along  its  banks,  which  resembled  clearings,  were 
supposed  to  be  the  mission  or  Indian  settlements;  but  the  weather 
was  smoky  and  unfavorable  to  far  views  with  the  glass.  The  rock 
displayed  here  in  the  escarpments  is  a  compact  amorphous  trap, 
which  appears  to  constitute  the  mass  of  the  Blue  mountains  in  this 
latitude;  and  all  the  region  of  country  through  which  we  have  trav- 
elled since  leaving  the  Snake  river  has  been  the  seat  of  violent  and 
extensive  igneous  action.  Along  the  Burnt  river  valley,  the  strata  are 
evidently  sedimentary  rocks,  altered  by  the  intrusion  of  volcanic 
products,  which  in  some  instances  have  penetrated  and  essentially 
changed  their  original  condition.  Along  our  line  of  route  from  this 
point  to  the  California  mountains,  there  seems  but  little  essential 
change.  All  our  specimens  of  sedimentary  rocks  show  them  to  be 
much  altered,  and  volcanic  productions  appear  to  prevail  throughout 
the  whole  intervening  distance. 

The  road  now  led  along  the  mountain  side,  around  heads  of  the 
precipitous  ravines;  and,  keeping  men  ahead  to  clear  a  road,  we 
passed  alternately  through  bodies  of  timber  and  small  open  prairies, 
and  encamped  in  a  large  meadow,  in  view  of  the  great  prairie  below. 

At  sunset  the  thermometer  was  at  40°,  and  the  night  was  very 
clear  and  bright.  Water  was  only  to  be  had  here  by  descending  a  bad 
ravine,  into  which  we  drove  our  animals,  and  had  much  trouble 
with  them,  in  a  very  close  growth  of  small  pines.  Mr.  Preuss  had 
walked  ahead,  and  did  not  get  into  camp  this  evening.  The  trees 
here  maintained  their  size,  and  one  of  the  black  spruces  measured 
15  feet  in  circumference.  In  the  neighborhood  of  the  camp,  pines 
have  reappeared  here  among  the  timber. 

October  23. — The  morning  was  very  clear;  there  had  been  a 
heavy  white  frost  during  the  night,  and  at  sunrise  the  thermometer 
was  at  31°. 

After  cutting  through  two  thick  bodies  of  timber,  in  which  I  no- 
ticed some  small  trees  of  hemlock,  spruce,  (perusse,)  the  forest  be- 
came more  open,  and  we  had  no  longer  any  trouble  to  clear  a  way. 
The  pines  here  were  11  or  12  feet  in  circumference,  and  about  110 
feet  high,  and  appeared  to  love  the  open  grounds.  The  trail  now  led 

550 


along  one  of  the  long  spurs  of  the  mountain,  descending  gradually 
towards  the  plain;  and  after  a  few  miles  travelling,  we  emerged 
finally  from  the  forest,  in  full  view  of  the  plain  below,  and  saw  the 
snowy  mass  of  Mount  Hood,  standing  high  out  above  the  surround- 
ing country,  at  the  distance  of  180  miles.  The  road  along  the  ridge 
was  excellent,  and  the  grass  very  green  and  good;  the  old  grass  hav- 
ing been  burnt  ofT  early  in  the  autumn.  About  4  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon we  reached  a  little  bottom  on  the  Walahwalah  river,  where  we 
found  Mr.  Preuss,  who  yesterday  had  reached  this  place,  and  found 
himself  too  far  in  advance  of  the  camp  to  return.  The  stream  here 
has  just  issued  from  the  narrow  ravines,  which  are  walled  with 
precipices,  in  which  the  rock  has  a  brown  and  more  burnt  appear- 
ance than  above. 

At  sunset  the  thermometer  was  at  48°;  and  our  position  was  in 
longitude  118°  00'  39",  and  in  latitude  45°  53'  35". 

The  morning  was  clear,  with  a  temperature  at  sunrise  of  24°. 
Crossing  the  river,  we  travelled  over  a  hilly  country  with  good 
bunch  grass;  the  river  bottom,  which  generally  contains  the  best 
soil  in  other  countries,  being  here  a  sterile  level  of  rock  and  pebbles. 
We  had  found  the  soil  in  the  Blue  mountains  to  be  of  excellent 
quality,  and  it  appeared  also  to  be  good  here  among  the  lower  hills. 
Reaching  a  little  eminence,  over  which  the  trail  passed,  we  had  an 
extensive  view  along  the  course  of  the  river,  which  was  divided  and 
spread  over  its  bottom  in  a  net  work  of  water,  receiving  several  other 
tributaries  from  the  mountains.  There  was  a  band  of  several  hundred 
horses  grazing  on  the  hills  about  two  miles  ahead;  and  as  we  ad- 
vanced on  the  road  we  met  other  bands,  which  Indians  were  driving 
out  to  pasture  also  on  the  hills.  True  to  its  general  character,  the  re- 
verse of  other  countries,  the  hills  and  mountains  here  were  rich  in 
grass,  the  bottoms  barren  and  sterile. 

In  six  miles  we  crossed  a  principal  fork,  below  which  the  scattered 
water  of  the  river  was  gathered  into  one  channel;  and,  passing  on 
the  way  several  unfinished  houses,  and  some  cleared  patches,  where 
corn  and  potatoes  were  cultivated,  we  reached,  in  about  eight  miles 
farther,  the  missionary  establishment  of  Dr.  Whitman,''^  which  con- 


73.  Dr.  Marcus  Whitman  (1802-47)  had  given  up  a  rural  medical  practice 
to  locate  among  the  Oregon  tribes  as  a  missionary.  After  a  preliminary  visit 
to  the  West  in  1835,  he  had  returned  to  the  Oregon  country  again  the  follow- 
ing year  with  his  bride  Narcissa  and  the  Henry  H.  Spaldings.  Two  missions 
were  established,  Whitman's  at  Waiilatpu,  twenty-seven  miles  from  the  Hud- 

551 


sisted,  at  this  time,  of  one  adobe  house — i.e.  built  of  unburnt  bricks, 
as  in  Mexico. 

I  found  Dr.  Whitman  absent  on  a  visit  to  the  Dalles  of  the  Co- 
lumbia; but  had  the  pleasure  to  see  a  fine-looking  large  family  of 
emigrants,  men,  women,  and  children,  in  robust  health,  all  in- 
demnifying themselves  for  previous  scanty  fare,  in  a  hearty  con- 
sumption of  potatoes,  w^hich  are  produced  here  of  a  remarkably 
good  quality.  We  w^ere  disappointed  in  our  expectation  of  obtaining 
corn  meal  or  flour  at  this  station,  the  mill  belonging  to  the  mission 
having  been  lately  burnt  down ;  but  an  abundant  supply  of  excellent 
potatoes  banished  regrets,  and  furnished  a  grateful  substitute  for 
bread.  A  small  town  of  Nez  Perce  [Cayuse]  Indians  gave  an  in- 
habited and  even  a  populous  appearance  to  the  station;  and,  after 
remaining  about  an  hour,  we  continued  our  route,  and  encamped  on 
the  river  about  four  miles  below,  passing  on  the  way  an  emigrant 
encampment. 

Temperature  at  sunset,  49°. 

October  25. — The  weather  was  pleasant,  with  a  sunrise  tempera- 
son's  Bay  Company's  post,  Fort  Walla  Walla,  and  Spalding's  at  Lapwai  near 
present  Lewiston,  Idaho.  When  dissension  arose  among  the  missionaries,  and 
their  joint  Presbyterian-Congregationalist  board  ordered  a  curtailment  of  their 
work,  Whitman  made  his  famous  winter  ride  east  in  1842-43,  via  Fort  Hall 
and  Taos,  to  visit  his  mission  headquarters  in  Boston.  He  had  just  returned  to 
Oregon  when  JCF,  whom  he  had  seen  at  the  Kansas  Ford,  arrived. 

JCF's  comment  that  he  missed  seeing  Whitman  at  the  mission  does  not 
necessarily  mean  that  he  failed  to  see  him  at  all  during  his  stay  in  the  area. 
Whitman's  correspondence  mentions  JCF  several  times  during  this  period  and 
expresses  apprehension  that  his  party  would  have  to  be  provisioned  from  a 
dwindling  supply  of  food.  Writing  from  Fort  Walla  Walla,  1  Nov.  1843,  to 
the  Rev.  David  Greene  of  Boston,  Whitman  says  that  JCF,  who  was  then  on  a 
trip  to  Vancouver,  would  "make  his  way  at  once  back  by  the  head  of  the 
Missouri  to  the  states  by  this  fall  &  winter  in  which  case  I  shall  write  by  him; 
but  it  seems  to  me  he  may  still  charter  a  small  American  Brig  which  is  in  the 
River  below  &  go  down  to  Panama  &  cross  the  Isthmus  &  from  thence  reach 
the  U  States"  (hulbert  &  hulbert,  2:318,  319,  322,  328).  For  a  standard  biog- 
raphy of  Whitman,  see  drury  [2]. 

The  mission  site  is  seven  miles  west  of  Walla  Walla,  Wash.,  near  U.S.  high- 
way 12,  and  is  a  National  Historic  Site  administered  by  the  National  Park 
Service.  It  has  been  extensively  excavated,  and  many  artifacts  uncovered,  but 
the  foundations  of  adobe  proved  to  be  so  friable  that  they  have  been  covered 
over  with  earth.  Outlines  of  the  foundations  are  now  marked  by  concrete 
blocks  laid  level  with  the  ground.  Among  the  artifacts  in  the  museum  at 
the  site  is  a  cannon  ball  thought  to  have  been  left  by  the  JCF  expedition.  But 
it  weighs  only  eight  pounds,  and  its  caliber  seems  too  small  for  a  twelve- 
pound  howitzer. 

552 


ture  of  36°.  Our  road  to-day  had  in  it  nothing  of  interest;  and  the 
country  offered  to  the  eye  only  a  sandy,  undulating  plain,  through 
which  a  scantily  timbered  river  takes  its  course.  We  halted  about 
three  miles  above  the  mouth,  on  account  of  grass;  and  the  next 
morning  arrived  at  the  Nez  Perce  fort  [Fort  Walla  Walla],  one  of 
the  trading  establishments  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  above  the  junction  of  the  Walahwalah  with  the  Columbia 
river.  Here  we  had  the  first  view  of  this  river,  and  found  it  about 
1,200  yards  wide,  and  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  fine  navigable 
stream.  We  made  our  camp  in  a  little  grove  of  willows  on  the 
Walahwalah,  which  are  the  only  trees  to  be  seen  in  the  neighbor- 
hood ;  but  were  obliged  to  send  the  animals  back  to  the  encampment 
we  had  left,  as  there  was  scarcely  a  blade  of  grass  to  be  found.  The 
post  is  on  the  bank  of  the  Columbia,  on  a  plain  of  bare  sands,  from 
which  the  air  was  literally  filled  with  clouds  of  dust  and  sand,  dur- 
ing one  of  the  few  days  we  remained  here;  this  place  being  one  of 
the  several  points  on  the  river  which  are  distinguished  for  prevailing 
high  winds,  which  come  from  the  sea.  The  appearance  of  the  post 
and  country  was  without  interest,  except  that  we  here  saw,  for  the 
first  time,  the  great  river  on  which  the  course  of  events  for  the  last 
half  century  has  been  directing  attention  and  conferring  historical 
fame.  The  river  is,  indeed,  a  noble  object,  and  has  here  attained  its 
full  magnitude.  About  nine  miles  above,  and  in  sight  from  the 
heights  about  the  post,  is  the  junction  of  the  two  great  forks  which 
constitute  the  main  stream — that  on  which  we  had  been  travelling 
from  Fort  Hall,  and  known  by  the  names  of  Lewis's  fork,  Shosho- 
nee,  and  Snake  river;  and  the  North  fork,  which  has  retained  the 
name  of  Columbia,  as  being  the  main  stream. 

We  did  not  go  up  to  the  junction,  being  pressed  for  time;  but  the 
union  of  two  large  streams,  coming  one  from  the  southeast,  and  the 
other  from  the  northeast,  and  meeting  in  what  may  be  treated  as  the 
geographical  centre  of  the  Oregon  valley,  thence  doubling  the  vol- 
ume of  water  to  the  ocean,  while  opening  two  great  lines  of  com- 
munication with  the  interior  continent,  constitutes  a  feature  in  the 
map  of  the  country  which  cannot  be  overlooked;  and,  it  was  prob- 
ably in  reference  to  this  junction  of  waters,  and  these  lines  of  com- 
munication, that  this  post  was  established.  They  are  important  lines, 
and,  from  the  structure  of  the  country,  must  forever  remain  so — one 
of  them  leading  to  the  South  Pass,  and  to  the  valley  of  the  Missis- 
sippi ;  the  other  to  the  pass  at  the  head  of  the  Athabasca  river,  and  to 

553 


the  countries  drained  by  the  waters  of  the  Hudson  Bay,  The  British 
fur  companies  now  use  both  hues;  the  Americans,  in  their  emigra- 
tion to  Oregon,  have  begun  to  follow  the  one  which  leads  towards 
the  United  States.  Batteaus  from  tide  water  ascend  to  the  junction, 
and  thence  high  up  the  North  fork,  or  Columbia.  Land  conveyance 
only  is  used  upon  the  line  of  Lewis's  fork.  To  the  emigrants  to  Ore- 
gon, the  Nez  Perce  is  a  point  of  interest,  as  being,  to  those  who 
choose  it,  the  termination  of  their  overland  journey.  The  broad  ex- 
panse of  the  river  here  invites  them  to  embark  on  its  bosom;  and 
the  lofty  trees  of  the  forest  furnish  the  means  of  doing  so. 

From  the  South  Pass  to  this  place  is  about  1,000  miles;  and  as  it  is 
about  the  same  distance  from  that  pass  to  the  Missouri  river  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Kansas,  it  may  be  assumed  that  2,000  miles  is  the  neces- 
sary land  travel  in  crossing  from  the  United  States  to  the  Pacific 
ocean  on  this  line.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Platte  it  would  be 
about  100  miles  less. 

Mr.  McKinley,"^  the  commander  of  the  post,  received  us  with 
great  civility;  and  both  to  myself,  and  the  heads  of  the  emigrants 
who  were  there  at  the  time,  extended  the  rites  of  hospitality  in  a 
comfortable  dinner  to  which  he  invited  us. 

By  a  meridional  altitude  of  the  sun,  the  only  observation  that  the 
weather  permitted  us  to  obtain,  the  mouth  of  the  Walahwalah  river 
is  in  latitude  46°  03' 46'';  and,  by  the  road  we  had  travelled,  612 
miles  from  Fort  Hall.  At  the  time  of  our  arrival,  a  considerable  body 
of  the  emigrants  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Applegate,^^  a  man  of 
considerable  resolution  and  energy,  had  nearly  completed  the  build- 
ing of  a  number  of  Mackinaw  boats,  in  which  they  proposed  to 
continue  their  further  voyage  down  the  Columbia.  I  had  seen,  in  de- 
scending the  Walahwalah  river,  a  fine  drove  of  several  hundred 
cattle,  which  they  had  exchanged  for  Californian  cattle,  to  be  received 


74.  Archibald  McKinlay  (d.  1882),  married  to  a  daughter  of  Peter  Skene 
Ogden,  served  at  Walla  Walla  until  1846  when  he  was  promoted  and  sent  to 
Oregon  City  to  take  charge  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  affairs  there 
( Elliott). 

75.  Jesse  Applegate  (1811-88),  who  was  to  become  one  of  Oregon's  leading 
citizens,  had  joined  the  great  emigration  of  1843  and  become  captain  of  the 
so-called  "cow  column."  Later  he  took  an  active  part  in  the  organization  of 
the  provisional  government  of  1845,  helped  to  frame  the  state  constitution, 
and  became  a  farmer  and  rancher  in  the  Umpqua  Valley.  In  Aug.  1868,  he  pub- 
lished in  The  Overland  Monthly  a  spirited  account  of  his  emigrating  experi- 
ences entitled  "A  Day  with  the  Cow  Column."  See  schafer. 

554 


at  Vancouver,  and  which  are  considered  a  very  inferior  breed.  The 
other  portion  of  the  emigration  had  preferred  to  complete  their  jour- 
ney by  land  along  the  banks  of  the  Columbia,  taking  their  stock 
and  wagons  with  them. 

Having  reinforced  our  animals  with  eight  fresh  horses,  hired  from 
the  post,  and  increased  our  stock  of  provisions  with  dried  salmon, 
potatoes,  and  a  little  beef,  we  resumed  our  journey  [28  Oct.]  down 
the  left  bank  of  the  Columbia,  being  guided  on  our  road  by  an  in- 
telligent Indian  boy,  whom  I  had  engaged  to  accompany  us  as  far  as 
the  Dalles. 

The  sketch  of  a  rock  which  we  passed  in  the  course  of  the  morn- 
ing is  annexed,  to  show  the  manner  in  which  the  basaltic  rock, 
which  constitutes  the  geological  formation  of  the  Columbia  valley, 
now  presents  itself.  From  an  elevated  point  over  which  the  road  led, 
we  obtained  another  far  view  of  Mount  Hood,  150  miles  distant.  We 
obtained  on  the  river  bank  an  observation  of  the  sun  at  noon,  which 
gave  for  the  latitude  45°  58'  08".  The  country  to-day  was  very  un- 
prepossessing, and  our  road  bad;  and  as  we  toiled  slowly  along 
through  deep  loose  sands,  and  over  fragments  of  black  volcanic  rock, 
our  laborious  travelling  was  strongly  contrasted  with  the  rapid  prog- 
ress of  Mr.  Applegate's  fleet  of  boats,  which  suddenly  came  gliding 
swiftly  down  the  broad  river,  which  here  chanced  to  be  tranquil  and 
smooth.  At  evening  we  encamped  on  the  river  bank,  where  there 
was  very  httle  grass,  and  less  timber.  We  frequently  met  Indians  on 
the  road,  and  they  were  collected  at  every  favorable  spot  along  the 
river. 

October  29. — The  road  continued  along  the  river,  and  in  the  course 
of  the  day  Mount  St.  Helens,  another  snowy  peak  of  the  Cascade 
range,  was  visible.  We  crossed  the  Umatilah  river  at  a  fall  near  its 
mouth.  This  stream  is  of  the  same  class  as  the  Walahwalah  river, 
with  a  bed  of  volcanic  rock,  in  places  split  into  fissures.  Our  en- 
campment was  similar  to  that  of  yesterday;  there  was  very  little 
grass,  and  no  wood.  The  Indians  brought  us  some  pieces  for  sale, 
which  were  purchased  to  make  our  fires. '^ 

October  31. — By  observation,  our  camp  is  in  latitude  45°  50' 05", 
and  longitude  119°  22'  18".  The  night  has  been  cold,  and  we  have 


76.  }CF  is  camping  this  night  on  the  Columbia,  between  the  mouths  of  the 
Umatilla  and  John  Day  rivers.  He  gives  no  further  indication  of  his  campsites 
until  2  Nov. 


555 


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o 


OS 


o 


556 


white  frost  this  morning,  with  a  temperature  at  dayHght  of  25°,  and 
at  sunrise  of  24°.  The  early  morning  was  very  clear,  and  the  stars 
bright;  but,  as  usual  since  we  are  on  the  Columbia,  clouds  formed 
immediately  with  the  rising  sun.  The  day  continued  fine,  the  east 
being  covered  with  scattered  clouds,  but  the  west  remaining  clear; 
showing  the  remarkable  cone-like  peak  of  Mount  Hood  brightly 
drawn  against  the  sky.  This  was  in  view  all  day  in  the  southwest,  but 
no  other  peaks  of  the  range  were  visible.  Our  road  was  a  bad  one, 
of  very  loose  deep  sand.  We  met  on  the  way  a  party  of  Indians  un- 
usually well  dressed,  wearing  clothes  of  civilized  texture  and  form. 
They  appeared  intelligent,  and,  in  our  slight  intercourse,  impressed 
me  with  the  belief  that  they  possessed  some  aptitude  for  acquiring 
languages. 

We  continued  to  travel  along  the  river,  the  stream  being  inter- 
spersed with  many  sand  bars  (it  being  the  season  of  low  water)  and 
with  many  islands,  and  an  apparently  good  navigation.  Small  wil- 
lows were  the  only  wood;  rock  and  sand  the  prominent  geological 
feature.  The  rock  of  this  section  is  a  very  compact  and  tough  basalt, 
occurring  in  strata  which  have  the  appearance  of  being  broken  into 
fragments,  assuming  the  form  of  columnar  hills,  and  appearing  al- 
ways in  escarpments,  with  the  broken  fragments  strewed  at  the  base 
and  over  the  adjoining  country. 

We  made  a  late  encampment  on  the  river,  and  used  to-night 
purshia  tridentata  for  fire  wood.  Among  the  rocks  which  formed 
the  bank,  was  very  good  green  grass.  Latitude  45°  44'  23",  longitude 
119°  45' 09". 

'November  1. — Mount  Hood  is  glowing  in  the  sunlight  this  morn- 
ing, and  the  air  is  pleasant,  with  a  temperature  of  38°.  We  continued 
down  the  river,  and,  passing  through  a  pretty  green  valley,  bounded 
by  high  precipitous  rocks,  encamped  at  the  lower  end. 

On  the  right  shore,  the  banks  of  the  Columbia  are  very  high  and 
steep;  the  river  is  1,690  feet  broad,  and  dark  bluffs  of  rock  give  it  a 
picturesque  appearance. 

November  2. — The  river  here  entered  among  bluffs,  leaving  no 
longer  room  for  a  road;  and  we  accordingly  left  it,  and  took  a  more 
inland  way  among  the  river  hills;  on  which  we  had  no  sooner  en- 
tered, than  we  found  a  great  improvement  in  the  country.  The  sand 
had  disappeared,  and  the  soil  was  good,  and  covered  with  excellent 
grass,  although  the  surface  was  broken  into  high  hills,  with  un- 

557 


commonly  deep  valleys.  At  noon  we  crossed  John  Day's  river,  a 
clear  and  beautiful  stream,  with  a  swift  current  and  a  bed  of  rolled 
stones.  It  is  sunk  in  a  deep  valley,  which  is  characteristic  of  all  the 
streams  in  this  region;  and  the  hill  we  descended  to  reach  it  well  de- 
serves the  name  of  mountain.  Some  of  the  emigrants  had  encamped 
on  the  river,  and  others  at  the  summit  of  the  farther  hill,  the  ascent 
of  which  had  probably  cost  their  wagons  a  day's  labor;  and  others 
again  had  halted  for  the  night  a  few  miles  beyond,  where  they  had 
slept  without  water.  We  also  encamped  in  a  grassy  hollow  without 
water;  but  as  we  had  been  forewarned  of  this  privation  by  the  guide, 
the  animals  had  all  been  watered  at  the  river,  and  we  had  brought 
with  us  a  sufficient  quantity  for  the  night. 

November  3. — After  two  hours'  ride  through  a  fertile,  hilly  coun- 
try, covered  as  all  the  upland  here  appears  to  be  with  good  green 
grass,  we  descended  again  into  the  river  bottom,  along  which  we 
resumed  our  sterile  road,  and  in  about  four  miles  reached  the  ford 
of  the  Fall  river,  {Riviere  aux  Chutes,)  [Deschutes]  a  considerable 
tributary  to  the  Columbia.  We  had  heard,  on  reaching  the  Nez 
Perce  fort,  a  repetition  of  the  account  in  regard  to  the  unsettled  char- 
acter of  the  Columbia  Indians  at  the  present  time;  and  to  our  little 
party  they  had  at  various  points  manifested  a  not  very  friendly  dis- 
position, in  several  attempts  to  steal  our  horses.  At  this  place  I  ex- 
pected to  find  a  badly  disposed  band,  who  had  plundered  a  party  of 
14  emigrant  men  a  few  days  before,  and  taken  away  their  horses; 
and  accordingly  we  made  the  necessary  preparations  for  our  security, 
but  happily  met  with  no  difficulty. 

The  river  was  high,  divided  into  several  arms,  with  a  rocky  island 
at  its  outlet  into  the  Columbia,  which  at  this  place  it  rivalled  in  size, 
and  apparently  deserved  its  highly  characteristic  name,  which  is 
received  from  one  of  its  many  falls  some  forty  miles  up  the  river.  It 
entered  the  Columbia  with  a  roar  of  falls  and  rapids,  and  is  probably 
a  favorite  fishing  station  among  the  Indians,  with  whom  both  banks 
of  the  river  were  populous;  but  they  scarcely  paid  any  attention  to  us. 


77.  The  John  Day  River,  entering  the  Columbia  from  the  north  above  the 
Dalles,  is  named  for  a  Virginian  who  became  a  hunter  for  the  Astorians.  With 
Ramsay  Crooks,  he  was  robbed  by  Indians  in  the  spring  of  1812.  The  river 
now  bearing  the  name  appears  not  to  be  the  original,  but  one  to  which  the 
name  was  later  given.  Francis  Haines,  Jr.,  believes  that  Day  died  on  the  stream 
now  called  Little  Lost  River,  and  that  early  traders  and  trappers  called  that 
stream  the  John  Day  (haines  [2J,  6-10). 


The  ford  was  very  difficult  at  this  time,  and,  had  they  entertained  any 
bad  intentions,  they  were  offered  a  good  opportunity  to  carry  them 
out,  as  I  drove  directly  into  the  river,  and  during  the  crossing  the 
howitzer  was  occasionally  several  feet  under  water,  and  a  number 
of  the  men  appeared  to  be  more  often  below  than  above.  Our  guide 
was  well  acquainted  with  the  ford,  and  we  succeeded  in  getting 
every  thing  safe  over  to  the  left  bank.  We  delayed  here  only  a  short 
time  to  put  the  gun  in  order,  and,  ascending  a  long  mountain  hill, 
left  both  rivers,  and  resumed  our  route  again  among  the  interior 
hills. 

The  roar  of  the  Falls  of  the  Columbia  is  heard  from  the  heights, 
where  we  halted  a  few  moments  to  enjoy  a  fine  view  of  the  river 
below.  In  the  season  of  high  water  it  would  be  a  very  interesting 
object  to  visit,  in  order  to  witness  what  is  related  of  the  annual  sub- 
merging of  the  fall  under  the  waters  which  back  up  from  the  basin 
below,  constituting  a  great  natural  lock  at  this  place.  But  time  had 
become  an  object  of  serious  consideration;  and  the  Falls,  in  their 
present  state,  had  been  seen  and  described  by  many. 

After  a  day's  journey  of  17  miles,  we  encamped  among  the  hills  on 
a  little  clear  stream,  where,  as  usual,  the  Indians  immediately  gath- 
ered round  us.  Among  them  was  a  very  old  man,  almost  blind  from 
age,  with  long  and  very  white  hair.  I  happened  of  my  own  accord  to 
give  this  old  man  a  present  of  tobacco,  and  was  struck  with  the  im- 
pression which  my  unpropitiated  notice  made  on  the  Indians,  who 
appeared  in  a  remarkable  manner  acquainted  with  the  real  value  of 
goods,  and  to  understand  the  equivalents  of  trade.  At  evening,  one 
of  them  spoke  a  few  words  to  his  people,  and,  telling  me  that  we 
need  entertain  no  uneasiness  in  regard  to  our  animals,  as  none  of 
them  would  be  disturbed,  they  went  all  quietly  away.  In  the  morn- 
ing, when  they  again  came  to  the  camp,  I  expressed  to  them  the 
gratification  we  felt  at  their  reasonable  conduct,  making  them  a 
present  of  some  large  knives  and  a  few  smaller  articles. 

November  4. — The  road  continued  among  the  hills,  and,  reaching 
an  eminence,  we  saw  before  us  in  a  little  green  valley,  watered  by  a 
clear  stream,  a  tolerably  large  valley,  through  which  the  trail  passed. 

In  comparison  with  the  Indians  of  the  Rocky  mountains  and  the 
great  eastern  plain,  these  are  disagreeably  dirty  in  their  habits.  Their 
huts  were  crowded  with  half-naked  women  and  children,  and  the 
atmosphere  within  any  thing  but  pleasant  to  persons  who  had  just 
been  riding  in  the  fresh  morning  air.  We  were  somewhat  amused 

559 


with  the  scanty  dress  of  one  woman,  who,  in  common  with  the 
others,  rushed  out  of  the  huts  on  our  arrival,  and  who,  in  default  of 
other  covering,  used  a  child  for  a  fig  leaf. 

The  road  in  about  half  an  hour  passed  near  an  elevated  point, 
from  which  we  overlooked  the  valley  of  the  Columbia  for  many 
miles,  and  saw  in  the  distance  several  houses  surrounded  by  fields, 
which  a  chief,  who  had  accompanied  us  from  the  village,  pointed 
out  to  us  as  the  Methodist  missionary  station/^ 

In  a  few  miles  we  descended  to  the  river,  which  we  reached  at 
one  of  its  remarkably  interesting  features,  known  as  the  Dalles  of 
the  Columbia.  The  whole  volume  of  the  river  at  this  place  passed 
between  the  walls  of  a  chasm,  which  has  the  appearance  of  having 
been  rent  through  the  basaltic  strata  which  form  the  valley  rock  of 
the  region.  At  the  narrowest  place  we  found  the  breadth,  by  mea- 
surement, 58  yards,  and  the  average  height  of  the  walls  above  the 
water  25  feet;  forming  a  trough  between  the  rocks — whence  the 
name,  probably  applied  by  a  Canadian  voyageur.  The  mass  of  water, 
in  the  present  low  state  of  the  river,  passed  swiftly  between,  deep 
and  black,  and  curled  into  many  small  whirlpools  and  counter  cur- 
rents, but  unbroken  by  foam,  and  so  still  that  scarcely  the  sound  of 
a  ripple  was  heard.  The  rock,  for  a  considerable  distance  from  the 
river,  was  worn  over  a  large  portion  of  its  surface  into  circular  holes 
and  well-like  cavities,  by  the  abrasion  of  the  river,  which,  at  the  sea- 
son of  high  waters,  is  spread  out  over  the  adjoining  bottoms. 

In  the  recent  passage  through  this  chasm,  an  unfortunate  event 
had  occurred  to  Mr.  Applegate's  party,  in  the  loss  of  one  of  their 
boats,  which  had  been  carried  under  water  in  the  midst  of  the  Dal- 
les, and  two  of  Mr.  Applegate's  children  and  one  man  drowned.'^^ 
This  misfortune  was  attributed  only  to  want  of  skill  in  the  steers- 
man, as  at  this  season  there  is  no  impediment  to  navigation;  al- 
though the  place  is  entirely  impassable  at  high  water,  when  boats 
pass  safely  over  the  great  falls  above,  in  the  submerged  state  in 
which  they  then  find  themselves. 

The  basalt  here  is  precisely  the  same  as  that  which  constitutes  the 


78.  The  Rev.  Jason  Lee  (1803-45)  and  his  nephew,  Daniel  Lee,  had  gone 
to  Oregon  in  1834  with  the  N.  J.  Wyeth  party  to  establish  an  unsuccessful 
mission  among  the  Flatheads.  Later  missions  were  established,  including  this 
one  at  the  Dalles. 

79.  Jesse  Applegate  lost  a  twelve-year-old  son,  Edward,  and  a  nephew  in  the 
raft  accident  to  which  JCF  refers. 

560 


rock  of  the  valley  higher  up  the  Columbia,  being  very  compact,  with 
a  few  round  cavities. 

We  passed  rapidly  three  or  four  miles  down  the  level  valley,  and 
encamped  near  the  mission.  The  character  of  the  forest  growth  here 
changed,  and  we  found  ourselves,  with  pleasure,  again  among  oaks 
and  other  forest  trees  of  the  east,  to  which  we  had  long  been 
strangers;  and  the  hospitable  and  kind  reception  with  which  we 
were  welcomed  among  our  country  people  at  the  mission  aided  the 
momentary  illusion  of  home. 

Two  good-looking  wooden  dwelling  houses,  and  a  large  school 
house,  with  stables,  barn,  and  garden,  and  large  cleared  fields  be- 
tween the  houses  and  the  river  bank,  on  which  were  scattered  the 
wooden  huts  of  an  Indian  village,  gave  to  the  valley  the  cheerful  and 
busy  air  of  civilization,  and  had  in  our  eyes  an  appearance  of  abun- 
dant and  enviable  comfort. 

Our  land  journey  found  here  its  western  termination.  The  delay 
involved  in  getting  our  camp  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Columbia, 
and  in  opening  a  road  through  the  continuous  forest  to  Vancouver, 
rendered  a  journey  along  the  river  impracticable;  and  on  this  side 
the  usual  road  across  the  mountain  required  strong  and  fresh  ani- 
mals, there  being  an  interval  of  three  days  in  which  they  could  ob- 
tain no  food.  I  therefore  wrote  immediately  to  Mr.  Fitzpatrick, 
directing  him  to  abandon  the  carts  at  the  Walahwalah  missionary 
station,  and,  as  soon  as  the  necessary  pack  saddles  could  be  made, 
which  his  party  required,  meet  me  at  the  Dalles,  from  which  point  I 
proposed  to  commence  our  homeward  journey.  The  day  after  our 
arrival  being  Sunday,  no  business  could  be  done  at  the  mission ;  but 
on  Monday  Mr.  Perkins^"  assisted  me  in  procuring  from  the  Indians 
a  large  canoe,  in  which  I  designed  to  complete  our  journey  to  Van- 
couver, where  I  expected  to  obtain  the  necessary  supply  of  provisions 
and  stores  for  our  winter  journey.  Three  Indians,  from  the  family 
to  whom  the  canoe  belonged,  were  engaged  to  assist  in  working  her 
during  the  voyage,  and,  with  them,  our  water  party  consisted  of  Mr. 
Preuss  and  myself,  with  Bernier  and  Jacob  Dodson.  In  charge  of 
the  party  which  was  to  remain  at  the  Dalles  I  left  Carson,  with  in- 
structions to  occupy  the  people  in  making  pack  saddles  and  refitting 


80.  H.  W.  K.  Perkins  (1812-84)  was  a  member  of  the  second  party  of  re- 
inforcements for  the  Jason  Lee  missionaries,  and  with  Daniel  Lee  had  estab- 
lished the  Dalles  mission.  He  returned  to  the  East  in  1844  (hines). 

561 


their  equipage.  The  village  from  which  we  were  to  take  the 
canoe  was  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  about  ten  miles  below,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Tinanens  creek;  and  while  Mr.  Preuss  proceeded 
down  the  river  with  the  instruments,  in  a  little  canoe  paddled  by  two 
Indians,  Mr.  Perkins  accompanied  me  with  the  remainder  of  the 
party  by  land.  The  last  of  the  emigrants  had  just  left  the  Dalles  at 
the  time  of  our  arrival,  travelling  some  by  water  and  others  by  land, 
making  ark-like  rafts,  on  which  they  had  embarked  their  families 
and  household,  with  their  large  wagons  and  other  furniture,  while 
their  stock  were  driven  along  the  shore. 

For  about  five  miles  below  the  Dalles,  the  river  is  narrow,  and 
probably  very  deep;  but  during  this  distance  it  is  somewhat  open, 
with  grassy  bottoms  on  the  left.  Entering,  then,  among  the  lower 
mountains  of  the  Cascade  range,  it  assumes  a  general  character,  and 
high  and  steep  rocky  hills  shut  it  in  on  either  side,  rising  abruptly  in 
places  to  the  height  of  1,500  feet  above  the  water,  and  gradually 
acquiring  a  more  mountainous  character  as  the  river  approaches  the 
Cascades. 

After  an  hour's  travel,  when  the  sun  was  nearly  down,  we 
searched  along  the  shore  for  a  pleasant  place,  and  halted  to  prepare 
supper.  We  had  been  well  supplied  by  our  friends  at  the  mission 
with  delicious  salted  salmon  which  had  been  taken  at  the  fattest 
season;  also,  with  potatoes,  bread,  coflfee,  and  sugar.  We  were  de- 
lighted at  a  change  in  our  mode  of  travelling  and  living.  The  canoe 
sailed  smoothly  down  the  river;  at  night  we  encamped  upon  the 
shore,  and  a  plentiful  supply  of  comfortable  provisions  supplied  the 
first  of  wants.  We  enjoyed  the  contrast  which  it  presented  to  our 
late  toilsome  marchings,  our  night  watchings,  and  our  frequent 
privation  of  food.  We  were  a  motley  group,  but  all  happy;  three 
unknown  Indians;  }acob,  a  colored  man;  Mr.  Preuss,  a  German; 
Bernier,  Creole  French;  and  myself. 

Being  now  upon  the  ground  explored  by  the  South  Sea  expedition 
under  Captain  Wilkes,  and  having  accomplished  the  object  of  unit- 
ing my  survey  with  his,  and  thus  presenting  a  connected  exploration 
from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific,  and  the  winter  being  at  hand,  I 
deemed  it  necessary  to  economize  time  by  voyaging  in  the  night,  as 
is  customary  here,  to  avoid  the  high  winds,  which  rise  with  the 
morning,  and  decline  with  the  day. 

Accordingly,  after  an  hour's  halt,  we  again  embarked,  and  re- 
sumed our  pleasant  voyage  down  the  river.  The  wind  rose  to  a  gale 

562 


after  several  hours ;  but  the  moon  was  very  bright,  and  the  wind  was 
fair,  and  the  canoe  glanced  rapidly  down  the  stream,  the  waves 
breaking  into  foam  alongside;  and  our  night  voyage,  as  the  wind 
bore  us  rapidly  along  between  the  dark  mountains,  was  wild  and 
interesting.  About  midnight  we  put  to  the  shore  on  a  rocky  beach, 
behind  which  was  a  dark-looking  pine  forest.  We  built  up  large  fires 
among  the  rocks,  which  were  in  large  masses  round  about;  and, 
arranging  our  blankets  on  the  most  sheltered  places  we  could  find, 
passed  a  delightful  night. 

After  an  early  breakfast,  at  daylight  we  resumed  our  journey,  the 
weather  being  clear  and  beautiful,  and  the  river  smooth  and  still.  On 
either  side  the  mountains  are  all  pine-timbered,  rocky,  and  high. 
We  were  now  approaching  one  of  the  marked  features  of  the  lower 
Columbia,  where  the  river  forms  a  great  cascade,  with  a  series  of 
rapids,  in  breaking  through  the  range  of  mountains  to  which  the 
lofty  peaks  of  Mount  Hood  and  St.  Helens  belong,  and  which  rise 
as  great  pillars  of  snow  on  either  side  of  the  passage.  The  main 
branch  of  the  Sacramento  river,  and  the  Tlamath  [Klamath],  issue 
in  cascades  from  this  range;  and  the  Columbia,  breaking  through 
it  in  a  succession  of  cascades,  gives  the  idea  of  cascades  to  the  whole 
range;  and  hence  the  name  of  the  Cascade  Range,  which  it  bears, 
and  distinguishes  it  from  the  Coast  Range  lower  down.  In  making 
a  short  turn  to  the  south,  the  river  forms  the  cascades  in  breaking 
over  a  point  of  agglomerated  masses  of  rock,  leaving  a  handsome 
bay  to  the  right,  with  several  rocky  pine-covered  islands,  and  the 
mountains  sweep  at  a  distance  around  a  cove  where  several  small 
streams  enter  the  bay.  In  less  than  an  hour  we  halted  on  the  left 
bank,  about  five  minutes'  walk  above  the  cascades,  where  there  were 
several  Indian  huts,  and  where  our  guides  signified  it  was  customary 
to  hire  Indians  to  assist  in  making  the  portage.  When  travelling  with 
a  boat  as  light  as  a  canoe,  which  may  easily  be  carried  on  the 
shoulders  of  the  Indians,  this  is  much  the  better  side  of  the  river 
for  the  portage,  as  the  ground  here  is  very  good  and  level,  being  a 
handsome  bottom,  which  I  remarked  was  covered  {as  was  now  al- 
ways the  case  along  the  river)  with  a  growth  of  green  and  fresh- 
looking  grass.  It  was  long  before  we  could  come  to  an  understanding 
with  the  Indians;  but  at  length,  when  they  had  first  received  the 
price  of  their  assistance  in  goods,  they  went  vigorously  to  work ;  and, 
in  a  shorter  time  than  had  been  occupied  in  making  our  arrange- 
ments, the  canoe,  instruments,  and  baggage,  were  carried  through  (a 

563 


distance  of  about  half  a  mile)  to  the  bank  below  the  main  cascade, 
where  we  again  embarked,  the  water  being  white  with  foam  among 
ugly  rocks,  and  boiling  into  a  thousand  whirlpools.  The  boat  passed 
with  great  rapidity,  crossing  and  recrossing  in  the  eddies  of  the  cur- 
rent. After  passing  through  about  2  miles  of  broken  water,  we  ran 
some  wild-looking  rapids,  which  are  called  the  Lower  Rapids,  being 
the  last  on  the  river,  which  below  is  tranquil  and  smooth — a  broad, 
magnificent  stream.  On  a  low  broad  point  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
river,  at  the  lower  end  of  these  rapids,  were  pitched  many  tents  of 
the  emigrants,  who  were  waiting  here  for  their  friends  from  above, 
or  for  boats  and  provisions  which  were  expected  from  Vancouver. 
In  our  passage  down  the  rapids,  I  had  noticed  their  camps  along  the 
shore,  or  transporting  their  goods  across  the  portage.  This  portage 
makes  a  head  of  navigation,  ascending  the  river.  It  is  about  two 
miles  in  length;  and  above,  to  the  Dalles,  is  45  miles  of  smooth  and 
good  navigation. 

We  glided  on  without  further  interruption  between  very  rocky 
and  high  steep  mountains,  which  sweep  along  the  river  valley  at  a 
little  distance,  covered  with  forests  of  pine,  and  showing  occasionally 
lofty  escarpments  of  red  rock.  Nearer,  the  shore  is  bordered  by  steep 
escarped  hills  and  huge  vertical  rocks,  from  which  the  waters  of  the 
mountain  reach  the  river  in  a  variety  of  beautiful  falls,  sometimes 
several  hundred  feet  in  height.  Occasionally  along  the  river  occurred 
pretty  bottoms,  covered  with  the  greenest  verdure  of  the  spring.  To  a 
professional  farmer,  however,  it  does  not  offer  many  places  of  suf- 
ficient extent  to  be  valuable  for  agriculture;  and  after  passing  a  few 
miles  below  the  Dalles,  I  had  scarcely  seen  a  place  on  the  south  shore 
where  wagons  could  get  to  the  river.  The  beauty  of  the  scenery  was 
heightened  by  the  continuance  of  very  delightful  weather,  resem- 
bling the  Indian  summer  of  the  Atlantic.  A  few  miles  below  the  cas- 
cades we  passed  a  singular  isolated  hill ;  and  in  the  course  of  the  next 
six  miles  occurred  five  very  pretty  falls  from  the  heights  on  the  left 
bank,  one  of  them  being  of  a  very  picturesque  character;  and  to- 
wards sunset  we  reached  a  remarkable  point  of  rocks,  distinguished, 
on  account  of  prevailing  high  winds,  and  the  delay  it  frequently 
occasions  to  the  canoe  navigation,  by  the  name  of  Cape  Horn.  It 
borders  the  river  in  a  high  wall  of  rock,  which  comes  boldly  down 
into  deep  water;  and  in  violent  gales  down  the  river,  and  from  the 
opposite  shore,  which  is  the  prevailing  direction  of  strong  winds,  the 


564 


water  is  dashed  against  it  with  considerable  violence.  It  appears  to 
form  a  serious  obstacle  to  canoe  travelling;  and  I  was  informed  by 
Mr.  Perkins,  that  in  a  voyage  up  the  river  he  had  been  detained  two 
weeks  at  this  place,  and  was  finally  obliged  to  return  to  Vancouver. 

The  winds  of  this  region  deserve  a  particular  study.  They  blow 
in  currents,  which  show  them  to  be  governed  by  fixed  laws;  and  it 
is  a  problem  how  far  they  may  come  from  the  mountains,  or  from 
the  ocean  through  the  breaks  in  the  mountains  which  let  out  the 
river. 

The  hills  here  had  lost  something  of  their  rocky  appearance,  and 
had  already  begun  to  decline.  As  the  sun  went  down,  we  searched 
along  the  river  for  an  inviting  spot;  and,  finding  a  clean  rocky  beach, 
where  some  large  dry  trees  were  lying  on  the  ground,  we  ran  our 
boat  to  the  shore;  and,  after  another  comfortable  supper,  ploughed 
our  way  along  the  river  in  darkness.  Heavy  clouds  covered  the  sky 
this  evening,  and  the  wind  began  to  sweep  in  gusts  among  the  trees, 
as  if  bad  weather  were  coming.  As  we  advanced,  the  hills  on  both 
sides  grew  constantly  lower;  on  the  right,  retreating  from  the  shore, 
and  forming  a  somewhat  extensive  bottom  of  intermingled  prairie 
and  wooded  land.  In  the  course  of  a  few  hours,  and  opposite  to  a 
small  stream  coming  in  from  the  north,  called  the  Tea  Prairie  river, 
the  highlands  on  the  left  declined  to  the  plains,  and  three  or  four 
miles  below  disappeared  entirely  on  both  sides,  and  the  river  en- 
tered the  low  country.  The  river  had  gradually  expanded ;  and  when 
we  emerged  from  the  highlands,  the  opposite  shores  were  so  distant 
as  to  appear  indistinct  in  the  uncertainty  of  the  light.  About  10 
o'clock  our  pilots  halted,  apparently  to  confer  about  the  course ;  and, 
after  a  little  hesitation,  pulled  directly  across  an  open  expansion  of 
the  river,  where  the  waves  were  somewhat  rough  for  a  canoe,  the 
wind  blowing  very  fresh.  Much  to  our  surprise,  a  few  minutes  after- 
wards we  ran  aground.  Backing  ofT  our  boat,  we  made  repeated 
trials  at  various  places  to  cross  what  appeared  to  be  a  point  of  shift- 
ing sand  bars,  where  we  had  attempted  to  shorten  the  way  by  a  cut- 
off. Finally,  one  of  our  Indians  got  into  the  water,  and  waded  about 
until  he  found  a  channel  sufficiently  deep,  through  which  we  wound 
along  after  him,  and  in  a  few  minutes  again  entered  the  deep  water 
below.  As  we  paddled  rapidly  down  the  river,  we  heard  the  noise  of 
a  saw  mill  at  work  on  the  right  bank;  and,  letting  our  boat  float 
quietly  down,  we  listened  with  pleasure  to  the  unusual  sounds;  and 


565 


before  midnight  encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  about  a  mile 
above  Fort  Vancouver.  Our  fine  dry  vv^eather  had  given  place  to  a 
dark  cloudy  night.  At  midnight  it  began  to  rain;  and  we  found  our- 
selves suddenly  in  the  gloomy  and  humid  season,  which,  in  the 
narrow  region  lying  between  the  Pacific  and  the  Cascade  mountains, 
and  for  a  considerable  distance  along  the  coast,  supplies  the  place  of 
winter. 

In  the  morning,  the  first  object  that  attracted  my  attention  was  the 
barque  Columbia,  lying  at  anchor  near  the  landing.  She  was  about 
to  start  on  her  voyage  to  England,  and  was  now  ready  for  sea;  being 
detained  only  in  waiting  the  arrival  of  the  express  batteaus,  which 
descend  the  Columbia  and  its  north  fork  with  the  overland  mail 
from  Canada  and  Hudson's  bay,  which  had  been  delayed  beyond 
their  usual  time.  I  immediately  waited  upon  Dr.  McLaughlin,^^  the 
executive  officer  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  in  the  territory  west 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  who  received  me  with  the  courtesy  and 
hospitality  for  which  he  has  been  eminently  distinguished,  and  which 
makes  a  forcible  and  delightful  impression  on  a  traveller  from  the 
long  wilderness  from  which  we  had  issued.  I  was  immediately  sup- 
plied by  him  with  the  necessary  stores  and  provisions  to  refit  and 
support  my  party  in  our  contemplated  winter  journey  to  the  States; 
and  also  with  a  Mackinaw  boat  and  canoes,  manned  with  Canadian 
and  Iroquois  voyageurs  and  Indians,  for  their  transportation  to  the 
Dalles  of  the  Columbia.  In  addition  to  this  efficient  kindness  in  fur- 
nishing me  with  these  necessary  supplies,  I  received  from  him  a 
warm  and  gratifying  sympathy  in  the  suffering  which  his  great  ex- 
perience led  him  to  anticipate  for  us  in  our  homeward  journey,  and 
a  letter  of  recommendation  and  credit  for  any  officers  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company  into  whose  posts  we  might  be  driven  by  unexpected 
misfortune. 

Of  course,  the  future  supplies  for  my  party  were  paid  for,  bills  on 


81.  The  dignified  trader  and  physician,  John  McLoughHn  (1784-1857), 
known  to  the  Indians  as  White  Eagle,  had  been  in  charge  of  the  Columbia 
district  since  1824.  He  could  be  merciless  in  competition,  and  served  his 
company  well,  but^ — as  JCF  notes — he  also  could  be  kind,  and  he  kept  many 
an  American  settler  from  perishing  by  extending  credit  for  provisions  and 
supplies.  Although  he  always  encouraged  settlement  south  of  the  Columbia, 
he  hoped  that  the  country  north  of  the  river  would  remain  in  British  hands. 
For  a  biography,  see  Montgomery.  For  his  letters  to  the  governor  and  Com- 
mittee at  this  time,  see  rich. 


566 


the  Government  of  the  United  States  being  readily  taken ;  but  every 
hospitable  attention  was  extended  to  me,  and  I  accepted  an  invita- 
tion to  take  a  room  in  the  fort,  "and  to  ma\e  myself  at  home  while 
I  staid." 

I  found  many  American  emigrants  at  the  fort;  others  had  already 
crossed  the  river  into  their  land  of  promise— the  Walahmette  [Wil- 
lamette] valley.  Others  were  daily  arriving;  and  all  of  them  had  been 
furnished  with  shelter,  so  far  as  it  could  be  afforded  by  the  buildings 
connected  with  the  establishment.  Necessary  clothing  and  provisions 
(the  latter  to  be  afterwards  returned  in  kind  from  the  produce  of 
their  labor)  were  also  furnished.  This  friendly  assistance  was  of  very 
great  value  to  the  emigrants,  whose  families  were  otherwise  exposed 
to  much  suffering  in  the  winter  rains,  which  had  now  commenced, 
at  the  same  time  that  they  were  in  want  of  all  the  common  neces- 
saries of  life.  Those  who  had  taken  a  water  conveyance  at  the  Nez 
Perce  fort  continued  to  arrive  safely,  with  no  other  accident  than  has 
been  already  mentioned.  The  party  which  had  passed  over  the  Cas- 
cade mountains  were  reported  to  have  lost  a  number  of  their  ani- 
mals ;  and  those  who  had  driven  their  stock  down  the  Columbia  had 
brought  them  safely  in,  and  found  for  them  a  ready  and  very  profit- 
able market,  and  were  already  proposing  to  return  to  the  States  in 
the  spring  for  another  supply. 

In  the  space  of  two  days  our  preparations  had  been  completed,  and 
WT  were  ready  to  set  out  on  our  return.  It  would  have  been  very 
gratifying  to  have  gone  down  to  the  Pacific,  and,  solely  in  the  interest 
and  in  the  love  of  geography,  to  have  seen  the  ocean  on  the  western  as 
well  as  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  continent,  so  as  to  give  a  satisfac- 
tory completeness  to  the  geographical  picture  which  had  been 
formed  in  our  minds;  but  the  rainy  season  had  now  regularly  set 
in,  and  the  air  was  filled  with  fogs  and  rain,  which  left  no  beauty  in 
any  scenery,  and  obstructed  observations.  The  object  of  my  instruc- 
tions had  been  entirely  fulfilled  in  having  connected  our  reconnois- 
sance  with  the  surveys  of  Captain  Wilkes;  and  although  it  would 
have  been  agreeable  and  satisfactory  to  terminate  here  also  our  ruder 
astronomical  observations,  I  was  not,  for  such  a  reason,  justified  to 
make  a  delay  in  waiting  for  favorable  weather. 

Near  sunset  of  the  10th,  the  boats  left  the  fort,  and  encamped  after 
making  only  a  few  miles.  Our  flotilla  consisted  of  a  Mackinaw  barge 
and  three  canoes — one  of  them  that  in  which  we  had  descended  the 


567 


river;  and  a  party  in  all  of  20  men.  One  of  the  emigrants,  Mr.  Bur- 
net,^^  of  Missouri,  who  had  left  his  family  and  property  at  the 
Dalles,  availed  himself  of  the  opportunity  afforded  by  the  return  of 
our  boats  to  bring  them  down  to  Vancouver.  This  gentleman,  as 
well  as  the  Messrs.  Applegate,  and  others  of  the  emigrants  whom  I 
saw,  possessed  intelligence  and  character,  with  the  moral  and  in- 
tellectual stamina,  as  well  as  the  enterprise,  which  give  solidity  and 
respectability  to  the  foundation  of  colonies. 

November  11. — The  morning  was  rainy  and  misty.  We  did  not 
move  with  the  practised  celerity  of  my  own  camp;  and  it  was  near 
9  o'clock  when  our  motley  crew  had  finished  their  breakfast  and 
were  ready  to  start.  Once  afloat,  however,  they  worked  steadily  and 
well,  and  we  advanced  at  a  good  rate  up  the  river;  and  in  the  after- 
noon a  breeze  sprung  up,  which  enabled  us  to  add  a  sail  to  the  oars. 
At  evening  we  encamped  on  a  warm-looking  beach,  on  the  right 
bank,  at  the  foot  of  the  high  river  hill,  immediately  at  the  lower  end 
of  Cape  Horn.  On  the  opposite  shore  is  said  to  be  a  singular  hole  in 
the  mountain,  from  which  the  Indians  believe  comes  the  wind  pro- 
ducing these  gales.  It  is  called  the  Devil's  hole;  and  the  Indians,  I 
was  told,  have  been  resolving  to  send  down  one  of  their  slaves  to 
explore  the  region  below.  At  dark,  the  wind  shifted  into  its  stormy 
quarter,  gradually  increasing  to  a  gale  from  the  southwest;  and  the 
sky  becoming  clear,  I  obtained  a  good  observation  of  an  emersion  of 
the  first  satellite ;  the  result  of  which,  being  an  absolute  observation,  I 
have  adopted  for  the  longitude  of  the  place. 

November  12. — The  wind  during  the  night  had  increased  to  so 
much  violence,  that  the  broad  river  this  morning  was  angry  and 
white;  the  waves  breaking  with  considerable  force  against  this  rocky 
wall  of  the  cape.  Our  old  Iroquois  pilot  was  unwilling  to  risk  the 
boats  around  the  point,  and  I  was  not  disposed  to  hazard  the  stores 
of  our  voyage  for  the  delay  of  a  day.  Further  observations  were  ob- 
tained during  the  day,  giving  for  the  latitude  of  the  place  45°  33'  09"; 
and  the  longitude,  obtained  from  the  satellite,  is  122°  6'  \5". 


82.  Peter  Hardeman  Burnett  (1807-95)  was  to  serve  as  an  Oregon  supreme 
court  judge  in  1845  and  to  lead  a  party  to  the  California  gold  fields  in  1848. 
He  remained  in  California  and  was  governor  from  1849  to  1851.  Recalling 
the  trip  up  the  Columbia  with  JCF  many  years  later,  he  said  the  explorer  gave 
his  orders  with  great  mildness  and  simplicity,  but  he  required  obedience. 
When  the  Indians  were  slow  to  work,  JCF  simply  put  out  their  fires  (  Bur- 
nett, 85-88). 

568 


November  13.— We  had  a  day  of  disagreeable  and  cold  rain;  and, 
late  in  the  afternoon,  began  to  approach  the  rapids  of  the  cascades. 
There  is  here  a  high  timbered  island  on  the  left  shore,  below  which, 
in  descending,  I  had  remarked  in  a  bluff  on  the  river  the  extremities 
of  trunks  of  trees  appearing  to  be  imbedded  in  the  rock.  Landing 
here  this  afternoon,  I  found  in  the  lower  part  of  the  escarpment  a 
stratum  of  coal  and  forest  trees,  imbedded  between  strata  of  altered 
clay  containing  the  remains  of  vegetables,  the  leaves  of  which  indi- 
cate that  the  plants  were  dicotyledonous.  Among  these,  the  stems  of 
some  of  the  ferns  are  not  mineralized,  but  merely  charred,  retaining 
still  their  vegetable  structure  and  substance;  and  in  this  condition 
a  portion  also  of  the  trees  remain.  The  indurated  appearance  and 
compactness  of  the  strata,  as  well,  perhaps,  as  the  mineralized  condi- 
tion of  the  coal,  are  probably  due  to  igneous  action.  Some  portions  of 
the  coal  precisely  resemble  in  aspect  the  cannel  coal  of  England,  and, 
with  the  accompanying  fossils,  have  been  referred  to  the  tertiary 
formation. 

These  strata  appear  to  rest  upon  a  mass  of  agglomerated  rock, 
being  but  a  few  feet  above  the  water  of  the  river;  and  over  them  is 
the  escarpment  of  perhaps  eighty  feet,  rising  gradually  in  the  rear 
towards  the  mountains.  The  wet  and  cold  evening,  and  near  ap- 
proach of  night,  prevented  me  from  making  any  other  than  a  very 
slight  examination. 

The  current  was  now  very  swift,  and  we  were  obliged  to  cordelle 
the  boat  along  the  left  shore,  where  the  bank  was  covered  with 
large  masses  of  rocks.  Night  overtook  us  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
island,  a  short  distance  below  the  cascades,  and  we  halted  on  the 
open  point.  In  the  mean  time,  the  lighter  canoes,  paddled  altogether 
by  Indians,  had  passed  ahead,  and  were  out  of  sight.  With  them  was 
the  lodge,  which  was  the  only  shelter  we  had,  with  most  of  the  bed- 
ding and  provisions.  We  shouted,  and  fired  guns;  but  all  to  no  pur- 
pose, as  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  hear  above  the  roar  of  the 
river;  and  we  remained  all  night  without  shelter,  the  rain  pouring 
down  all  the  time.  The  old  voyageurs  did  not  appear  to  mind  it 
much,  but  covered  themselves  up  as  well  as  they  could,  and  lay  down 
on  the  sand  beach,  where  they  remained  quiet  until  morning.  The 
rest  of  us  spent  a  rather  miserable  night ;  and,  to  add  to  our  discom- 
fort, the  incessant  rain  extinguished  our  fires;  and  we  were  glad 
when  at  last  daylight  appeared,  and  we  again  embarked. 

Crossing  to  the  right  bank,  we  cordelled  the  boat  along  the  shore, 

569 


there  being  no  longer  any  use  for  the  paddles,  and  put  into  a  little 
bay  below  the  upper  rapids.  Here  we  found  the  lodge  pitched,  and 
about  twenty  Indians  sitting  around  a  blazing  fire  within,  making  a 
luxurious  breakfast  with  salmon,  bread,  butter,  sugar,  cofJee,  and 
other  provisions.  In  the  forest,  on  the  edge  of  a  high  bluff  overlook- 
ing the  river,  is  an  Indian  grave  yard,  consisting  of  a  collection  of 
tombs,  in  each  of  which  were  the  scattered  bones  of  many  skeletons. 
The  tombs  were  made  of  boards,  which  were  ornamented  with  many 
figures  of  men  and  animals  of  the  natural  size — from  their  appear- 
ance, constituting  the  armorial  device  by  which,  among  Indians,  the 
chiefs  are  usually  known. 

The  masses  of  rock  displayed  along  the  shores  of  the  ravine  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  cascades  are  clearly  volcanic  products.  Be- 
tween this  cove,  which  I  called  Grave-yard  bay,  and  another  spot  of 
smooth  water  above,  on  the  right,  called  Liiders  bay,^"*  sheltered  by  a 
jutting  point  of  huge  rocky  masses  at  the  foot  of  the  cascades,  the 
shore  along  the  intervening  rapids  is  lined  with  precipices  of  distinct 
strata  of  red  and  variously  colored  lavas,  in  inclined  positions. 

The  masses  of  rock  forming  the  point  at  Liiders  bay  consist  of  a 
porous  trap,  or  basalt — a  volcanic  product  of  a  modern  period.  The 
rocks  belong  to  agglomerated  masses,  which  form  the  immediate 
ground  of  the  cascades,  and  have  been  already  mentioned  as  consti- 
tuting a  bed  of  cemented  conglomerate  rocks  appearing  at  various 
places  along  the  river.  Here  they  are  scattered  along  the  shores,  and 
through  the  bed  of  the  river,  wearing  the  character  of  convulsion, 
which  forms  the  impressive  and  prominent  feature  of  the  river  at 
this  place. 

Wherever  we  came  in  contact  with  the  rocks  of  these  mountains, 
we  found  them  volcanic,  which  is  probably  the  character  of  the 
range;  and  at  this  time,  two  of  the  great  snowy  cones,  Mount 
Regnier  and  St.  Helens,  were  in  action.  On  the  23d  of  the  preceding 
November,  St.  Helens  had  scattered  its  ashes,  like  a  light  fall  of 
snow,  over  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  50  miles  distant.  A  speci- 
men of  these  ashes  was  given  to  me  by  Mr.  Brewer,  one  of  the  clergy- 
men at  the  Dalles.^^ 


83.  The  name  "Liiders  Bay"  apparently  did  not  come  into  general  use  and 
soon  faded  from  memory.  The  bay,  named  for  a  German  botanist  (see  p. 
571),  would  have  been  a  short  distance  below  Stevenson,  Wash,  (haskins). 

84.  Henry  Bridgman  Brewer  (1813-86)  and  his  wife  had  come  by  sea  in 
1839  to  join  the  Oregon  Methodist  Episcopal  Mission,  where  he  served  for 

570 


The  lofty  range  of  the  Cascade  mountains  forms  a  distinct  bound- 
ary between  the  opposite  cHmates  of  the  regions  along  its  western 
and  eastern  bases.  On  the  west,  they  present  a  barrier  to  the  clouds 
of  fog  and  rain  which  roll  up  from  the  Pacific  ocean  and  beat 
against  their  rugged  sides,  forming  the  rainy  season  of  the  winter 
in  the  country  along  the  coast.  Into  the  brighter  skies  of  the  region 
along  their  eastern  base,  this  rainy  winter  never  penetrates;  and  at 
the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia  the  rainy  season  is  unknown,  the  brief 
winter  being  limited  to  a  period  of  about  two  months,  during  which 
the  earth  is  covered  with  slight  snows  of  a  climate  remarkably  mild 
for  so  high  a  latitude.  The  Cascade  range  has  an  average  distance  of 
about  130  miles  from  the  sea  coast.  It  extends  far  both  noi.h  and 
south  of  the  Columbia,  and  is  indicated  to  the  distant  observer,  both 
in  course  and  position,  by  the  lofty  volcanic  peaks  which  rise  out  of 
it,  and  which  are  visible  to  an  immense  distance. 

During  several  days  of  constant  rain,  it  kept  our  whole  force 
laboriously  employed  in  getting  our  barge  and  canoes  to  the  upper 
end  of  the  cascades.  The  portage  ground  was  occupied  by  emigrant 
families;  their  thin  and  insufficient  clothing,  bare-headed  and  bare- 
footed children,  attesting  the  length  of  their  journey,  and  showing 
that  they  had,  in  many  instances,  set  out  without  a  due  preparation 
of  what  was  indispensable. 

A  gentleman  named  [Friedrich  G.  J.]  Liiders,  a  botanist  from  the 
city  of  Hamburg,  arrived  at  the  bay  I  have  called  by  his  name  while 
we  were  occupied  in  bringing  up  the  boats.  I  was  delighted  to  meet 
at  such  a  place  a  man  of  kindred  pursuits;  but  we  had  only  the 
pleasure  of  a  brief  conversation,  as  his  canoe,  under  the  guidance  of 
two  Indians,  was  about  to  run  the  rapids;  and  I  could  not  enjoy  the 
satisfaction  of  regaling  him  with  a  breakfast,  which,  after  his  recent 
journey,  would  have  been  an  extraordinary  luxury.  All  of  his  few 
instruments  and  baggage  were  in  the  canoe,  and  he  hurried  around 
by  land  to  meet  it  at  the  Grave-yard  bay;  but  he  was  scarcely  out  of 
sight,  when,  by  the  carelessness  of  the  Indians,  the  boat  was  drawn 
into  the  midst  of  the  rapids,  and  glanced  down  the  river,  bottom  up, 
with  the  loss  of  every  thing  it  contained.  In  the  natural  concern  I 

seven  years.  Later  he  farmed  in  the  Willamette  Valley,  then  returned  to  New 
England  by  way  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  (brewlr).  It  was  Mount  Baker  (not 
Mount  Rainier),  far  to  the  north,  that  had  become  active  in  1842.  Many  times 
in  the  1840s,  Mount  St.  Helens  seems  to  have  been  active  to  a  varying  degree, 
with  the  great  eruption  taking  place  in  Nov.  1842  (holmes). 


felt  for  his  misfortune,  I  gave  to  the  Httle  cove  the  name  of  Liiders 
bay, 

November  15. — We  continued  to-day  our  work  at  the  portage. 

About  noon,  the  two  barges  of  the  express  from  Montreal  arrived 
at  the  upper  portage  landing,  which,  for  large  boats,  is  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  river.  They  were  a  fine-looking  crew,  and  among  them 
I  remarked  a  fresh-looking  woman  and  her  daughter,  emigrants 
from  Canada.  It  was  satisfactory  to  see  the  order  and  speed  with 
which  these  experienced  watermen  effected  the  portage,  and  passed 
their  boats  over  the  cascades.  They  had  arrived  at  noon,  and  in  the 
evening  they  expected  to  reach  Vancouver.  These  batteaus  carry  the 
express  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  to  the  highest  navigable  point 
of  the  north  fork  of  the  Columbia,  whence  it  is  carried  by  an  over- 
land party  to  lake  Winipec  [Lake  Winnipeg],  where  it  is  divided — 
part  going  to  Montreal,  and  part  to  Hudson  Bay.  Thus  a  regular 
communication  is  kept  up  between  three  very  remote  points. 

The  Canadian  emigrant  was  much  chagrined  at  the  change  of 
climate,  and  informed  me  that,  only  a  few  miles  above,  they  had 
left  a  country  of  bright  blue  sky  and  a  shining  sun.  The  next  morn- 
ing the  upper  parts  of  the  mountains  which  directly  overlook  the 
cascades  were  white  with  the  freshly  fallen  snow,  while  it  continued 
to  rain  steadily  below. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  finished  the  portage,  and,  embarking 
again,  moved  a  little  distance  up  the  right  bank,  in  order  to  clear 
the  smaller  rapids  of  the  cascades,  and  have  a  smooth  river  for  the 
next  morning.  Though  we  made  but  a  few  miles,  the  weather  im- 
proved immediately  and  though  the  rainy  country  and  the  cloudy 
mountains  were  close  behind,  before  us  was  the  bright  sky;  so  dis- 
tinctly is  climate  here  marked  by  a  mountain  boundary. 

November  17. — We  had  to-day  an  opportunity  to  complete  the 
sketch  of  that  portion  of  the  river  down  which  we  had  come  by 
night,  and  of  which  I  will  not  give  a  particular  description,  which 
the  small  scale  of  our  map  would  not  illustrate.  Many  places  occur 
along  the  river,  where  the  stumps,  or  rather  portions  of  the  trunks 
of  pine  trees,  are  standing  along  the  shore,  and  in  the  water,  where 
they  may  be  seen  at  a  considerable  depth  below  the  surface,  in  the 
beautifully  clear  water.  These  collections  of  dead  trees  are  called  on  the 
Columbia  the  submerged  forest,  and  are  supposed  to  have  been  created 
by  the  effects  of  some  convulsion  which  formed  the  cascades,  and 
which,  by  damming  up  the  river,  placed  these  trees  under  water  and 

572 


destroyed  them.  But  I  venture  to  presume  that  the  cascades  are  older 
than  the  trees;  and  as  these  submerged  forests  occur  at  five  or  six 
places  along  the  river,  I  had  an  opportunity  to  satisfy  myself  that 
they  have  been  formed  by  immense  land  slides  from  the  mountains, 
which  here  closely  shut  in  the  river,  and  which  brought  down  with 
them  into  the  river  the  pines  of  the  mountain.  At  one  place,  on  the 
right  bank,  I  remarked  a  place  where  a  portion  of  one  of  these  slides 
seemed  to  have  planted  itself,  with  all  the  evergreen  foliage,  and  the 
vegetation  of  the  neighboring  hill,  directly  amidst  the  falling  and 
yellow  leaves  of  the  river  trees.  It  occurred  to  me  that  this  would 
have  been  a  beautiful  illustration  to  the  eye  of  a  botanist. 

Following  the  course  of  a  slide,  which  was  very  plainly  marked 
along  the  mountain,  I  found  that  in  the  interior  parts  the  trees 
were  in  their  usual  erect  position ;  but  at  the  extremity  of  the  slide 
they  were  rocked  about,  and  thrown  into  a  confusion  of  inclinations. 

About  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  passed  a  sandy  bar  in  the 
river,  whence  we  had  an  unexpected  view  of  Mount  Hood,  bearing 
directly  south  by  compass. 

During  the  day  we  used  oar  and  sail,  and  at  night  had  again  a 
delightful  camping  ground,  and  a  dry  place  to  sleep  upon. 

November  18. — The  day  again  was  pleasant  and  bright.  At  10 
o'clock  we  passed  a  rock  island,  on  the  right  shore  of  the  river, 
which  the  Indians  use  as  a  burial  ground;  and,  halting  for  a  short 
time,  about  an  hour  afterwards,  at  the  village  of  our  Indian  friends, 
early  in  the  afternoon  we  arrived  again  at  the  Dalles. 

Carson  had  removed  the  camp  up  the  river  a  little  nearer  to  the 
hills,  where  the  animals  had  better  grass.  We  found  every  thing  in 
good  order,  and  arrived  just  in  time  to  partake  of  an  excellent  roast 
of  California  beef.  My  friend  Mr.  Gilpin  had  arrived  in  advance  of 
the  party.  His  object  in  visiting  this  country  had  been  to  obtain  cor- 
rect information  of  the  Walahmette  settlements;  and  he  had  reached 
this  point  in  his  journey,  highly  pleased  with  the  country  over  which 
he  had  travelled,  and  with  invigorated  health.  On  the  following  day 
he  continued  his  journey,  in  our  returning  boats,  to  Vancouver. 

The  camp  was  now  occupied  in  making  the  necessary  prepara- 
tions for  our  homeward  journey,  which,  though  homeward,  contem- 
plated a  new  route,  and  a  great  circuit  to  the  south  and  southeast, 
and  the  exploration  of  the  Great  Basin  between  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains and  the  Sierra  Nevada.  Three  principal  objects  were  indicated, 
by  report  or  by  maps,  as  being  on  this  route;  the  character  or  existence 

573 


of  which  I  wished  to  ascertain,  and  which  I  assumed  as  landmarks, 
or  leading  points,  on  the  projected  line  of  return.  The  first  of  these 
points  was  the  Tlamath  lake,  on  the  table  land  between  the  head  of 
Fall  river,  which  comes  to  the  Columbia,  and  the  Sacramento,  which 
goes  to  the  bay  of  San  Francisco;  and  from  which  lake  a  river  of  the 
same  name  makes  its  way  westwardly  direct  to  the  ocean.  This  lake 
and  river  are  often  called  Klamet,  but  I  have  chosen  to  write  its 
name  according  to  the  Indian  pronunciation.  The  position  of  this 
lake,  on  the  line  of  inland  communication  between  Oregon  and 
California;  its  proximity  to  the  demarcation  boundary  of  latitude 
42°;  its  imputed  double  character  of  lake,  or  meadow,  according  to 
the  season  of  the  year;  and  the  hostile  and  warlike  character  at- 
tributed to  the  Indians  about  it — all  made  it  a  desirable  object  to 
visit  and  examine.  From  this  lake  our  course  was  intended  to  be 
about  southeast,  to  a  reported  lake  called  Mary's,  at  some  days'  jour- 
ney in  the  Great  Basin ;  and  thence,  still  on  southeast,  to  the  reputed 
Buenave?ttura  river,^^  which  has  had  a  place  in  so  many  maps,  and 
countenanced  the  belief  of  the  existence  of  a  great  river  flowing 
from  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  bay  of  San  Francisco.  From  the 
Buenaventura  the  next  point  was  intended  to  be  in  that  section  of 
the  Rocky  mountains  which  includes  the  heads  of  Arkansas  river, 
and  of  the  opposite  waters  of  the  Californian  gulf;  and  thence  down 
the  Arkansas  to  Bent's  fort,  and  home.  This  was  our  projected  line 
of  return — a  great  part  of  it  absolutely  new  to  geographical,  botani- 


85.  It  is  uncertain  whether  JCF  really  believed  in  the  existence  of  the 
Buenaventura.  Benton  says  he  did,  and  that  Dr.  McLoughlin  "made  out  a 
conjectural  manuscript  map  to  show  its  place  and  course"  (benton  [1], 
2:580).  Benton  also  credits  JCF  with  eliminating  the  mythical  river  from  the 
maps,  but  that  had  already  been  done;  it  does  not  appear  on  Albert  Gallatin's 
or  B.  L.  E.  Bonneville's  important  maps.  Possibly  JCF  had  seen  the  map 
made  by  Lieut.  Charles  Wilkes  after  his  survey  of  the  coast  by  sea  and  land, 
though  he  never  acknowledged  this  in  a  later  controversy  with  Wilkes  over 
the  accuracy  of  certain  cartographic  positions.  We  know  from  JCF's  com- 
ments on  p.  588  that  he  had  heard  of  the  experiences  of  Jedediah  Smith, 
and  he  may  also  have  known  of  Joseph  R.  Walker's  journey  across  the  Great 
Basin  in  1833-34.  These  men  found  no  Buenaventura.  JCF's  recurring  journal 
entries  about  his  search  for  the  fabled  river — written  after  the  expedition — 
and  his  final  conclusion  that  the  river  did  not  exist,  seem  almost  like  a  de- 
liberately introduced  element  to  add  continuity  and  suspense  to  the  Report.  It 
is  hard  to  resist  the  suspicion  that  Jessie  Benton  Fremont's  flair  for  the  dra- 
matic is  somehow  involved.  For  more  about  the  river,  see  crampton  &  grif- 

FEN. 


574 


cal,  and  geological  science — and  the  subject  of  reports  in  relation  to 
lakes,  rivers,  deserts,  and  savages  hardly  above  the  condition  of  mere 
wild  animals,  which  inflamed  desire  to  know  what  this  terra  in- 
cognita really  contained.  It  was  a  serious  enterprise,  at  the  com- 
mencement of  winter,  to  undertake  the  traverse  of  such  a  region, 
and  with  a  party  consisting  only  of  twenty-five  persons,  and  they  of 
many  nations — American,  French,  German,  Canadian,  Indian,  and 
colored— and  most  of  them  young,  several  being  under  twenty-one 
years  of  age.  All  knew  that  a  strange  country  was  to  be  explored, 
and  dangers  and  hardships  to  be  encountered;  but  no  one  blenched 
at  the  prospect.  On  the  contrary,  courage  and  confidence  animated 
the  whole  party.  Cheerfulness,  readiness,  subordination,  prompt 
obedience,  characterized  all;  nor  did  any  extremity  of  peril  and  pri- 
vation, to  which  we  were  afterwards  exposed,  ever  belie,  or  derogate 
from,  the  fine  spirit  of  this  brave  and  generous  commencement.  The 
course  of  the  narrative  will  show  at  what  point,  and  for  what  rea- 
sons, we  were  prevented  from  the  complete  execution  of  this  plan, 
after  having  made  considerable  progress  upon  it,  and  how  we  were 
forced  by  desert  plains  and  mountain  ranges,  and  deep  snows,  far 
to  the  south  and  near  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  and  along  the  western 
base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada;  where,  indeed,  a  new  and  ample  field  of 
exploration  opened  itself  before  us.  For  the  present,  we  must  follow 
the  narrative,  which  will  first  lead  us  south  along  the  valley  of  Fall 
[Deschutes]  river,  and  the  eastern  base  of  the  Cascade  range,  to  the 
Tlamath  lake,  from  which,  or  its  margin,  three  rivers  go  in  three 
directions — one  west,  to  the  ocean;  another  north,  to  the  Colum- 
bia; the  third  south,  to  California  [misconception  of  the  Sacramento 
River]. 

For  the  support  of  the  party,  I  had  provided  at  Vancouver  a  supply 
of  provisions  for  not  less  than  three  months,  consisting  principally  of 
flour,  peas,  and  tallow — the  latter  being  used  in  cooking;  and,  in  ad- 
dition to  this,  I  had  purchased  at  the  mission  some  California  cattle, 
which  were  to  be  driven  on  the  hoof.  We  had  104  mules  and  horses 
— part  of  the  latter  procured  from  the  Indians  about  the  mission; 
and  for  the  sustenance  of  which,  our  reliance  was  upon  the  grass 
which  we  should  find,  and  the  soft  porous  wood,  which  was  to  be  its 
substitute  when  there  was  none. 

Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  with  Mr.  Talbot  and  the  remainder  of  our  party, 
arrived  on  the  21st;  and  the  camp  was  now  closely  engaged  in  the 


575 


labor  of  preparation.  Mr.  Perkins  succeeded  in  obtaining  as  a  guide 
to  the  Tlamath  lake  two  Indians— one  of  whom  had  been  there,  and 
bore  the  marks  of  several  wounds  he  had  received  from  some  of  the 
Indians  in  the  neighborhood ;  and  the  other  went  along  for  company. 
In  order  to  enable  us  to  obtain  horses,  he  despatched  messengers  to 
the  various  Indian  villages  in  the  neighborhood,  informing  them 
that  we  were  desirous  to  purchase,  and  appointing  a  day  for  them  to 
bring  them  in. 

We  made,  in  the  mean  time,  several  excursions  in  the  vicinity.  Mr. 
Perkins  walked  with  Mr.  Preuss  and  myself  to  the  heights,  about 
nine  miles  distant,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  whence,  in  fine 
weather,  an  extensive  view  may  be  had  over  the  mountains,  includ- 
ing seven  great  peaks  of  the  Cascade  range;  but  clouds,  on  this  oc- 
casion, destroyed  the  anticipated  pleasure,  and  we  obtained  bearings 
only  to  three  that  were  visible:  Mount  Regnier,  St.  Helens,  and 
Mount  Hood.  On  the  heights,  about  one  mile  south  of  the  mission,  a 
very  fine  view  may  be  had  of  Mount  Hood  and  St.  Helens.  In  order 
to  determine  their  positions  with  as  much  accuracy  as  possible,  the 
angular  distances  of  the  peaks  were  measured  with  the  sextant,  at 
different  fixed  points  from  which  they  could  be  seen. 

The  Indians  brought  in  their  horses  at  the  appointed  time,  and  we 
succeeded  in  obtaining  a  number  in  exchange  for  goods;  but  they 
were  relatively  much  higher  here,  where  goods  are  plenty  and  at 
moderate  prices,  than  we  had  found  them  in  the  more  eastern  part 
of  our  voyage.  Several  of  the  Indians  inquired  very  anxiously  to 
know  if  we  had  any  dollars;  and  the  horses  we  procured  were  much 
fewer  in  number  than  I  had  desired,  and  of  thin,  inferior  quality ;  the 
oldest  and  poorest  being  those  that  were  sold  to  us.  These  horses,  as 
ever  in  our  journey  you  will  have  occasion  to  remark,  are  valuable 
for  hardihood  and  great  endurance. 

November  24.— At  this  place  one  of  the  men  was  discharged; 
and  at  the  request  of  Mr.  Perkins,  a  Chinook  Indian,  a  lad  of  nine- 
teen, who  was  extremely  desirous  to  "see  the  whites,"  and  make  some 
acquaintance  with  our  institutions,  was  received  into  the  party,  un- 
der my  special  charge,  with  the  understanding  that  I  would  again 


86.  John  Gill  Campbell  was  discharged.  Later  he  was  employed  as  a  clerk 
by  Archibald  McKinlay,  then  became  a  member  of  the  Oregon  Exchange 
Company  which  coined  "Beaver  money"  in  Oregon  City  from  1849  to  1854, 
when  U.S.  coins  from  the  San  Francisco  mint  came  into  use  (gary,  392; 
SCOTT ). 

576 


return  him  to  his  friends.  He  had  Hved  for  some  time  in  the  house- 
hold  of   Mr.   Perkins,   and   spoke   a   few   words   of   the    Enghsh 

187 
anguage. 

November  25.— We  were  all  up  early,  in  the  excitement  of  turning 
towards  home.  The  stars  were  brilliant,  and  the  morning  cold— the 
thermometer  at  daylight  26°. 

Our  preparations  had  been  finally  completed,  and  to-day  we  com- 
menced our  journey .^^  The  little  wagon  which  had  hitherto  carried 
the  instruments  I  judged  it  necessary  to  abandon ;  and  it  was  accord- 
ingly presented  to  the  mission.  In  all  our  long  travelling,  it  had  never 
been  overturned  or  injured  by  any  accident  of  the  road ;  and  the  only 
things  broken  were  the  glass  lamps,  and  one  of  the  front  panels, 
which  had  been  kicked  out  by  an  unruly  Indian  horse.  The  howitzer 
was  the  only  wheeled  carriage  now  remaining.  We  started  about 
noon,  when  the  weather  had  become  disagreeably  cold,  with  flurries 
of  snow.  Our  friend  Mr.  Perkins,  whose  kindness  had  been  active 
and  efficient  during  our  stay,  accompanied  us  several  miles  on  our 
road ;  when  he  bade  us  farewell,  and  consigned  us  to  the  care  of  our 
guides.  Ascending  to  the  uplands  beyond  the  southern  fork  of  the 
Tinanens  [Fifteenmile]  creek,  we  found  the  snow  lying  on  the 
ground  in  frequent  patches,  although  the  pasture  appeared  good, 
and  the  new  short  grass  was  fresh  and  green.  We  travelled  over 
high,  hilly  land,  and  encamped  on  a  little  branch  of  Tinanens  creek, 
where  there  were  grass  and  timber.  The  southern  bank  was  covered 
with  snow,  which  was  scattered  over  the  bottom;  and  the  little  creek, 
its  borders  lined  with  ice,  had  a  chilly  and  wintry  look.  A  number 
of  Indians  had  accompanied  us  so  far  on  our  road,  and  remained 
with  us  during  the  night.  Two  bad-looking  fellows,  who  were 
detected  in  stealing,  were  tied  and  laid  before  the  fire,  and  guard 
mounted  over  them  during  the  night.  The  night  was  cold,  and 
partially  clear. 

'November  26. — The  morning  was  cloudy  and  misty,  and  but  a  few 
stars  visible.  During  the  night  water  froze  in  the  tents,  and  at  sunrise 


87.  The  Chinook  Indian  was  known  as  William,  and  he  did  go  all  the 
way  home  with  JCF.  For  his  desire  to  return  to  his  own  people,  see  Doc.  Nos. 
124  and  128,  25  April  and  5  May  1845.  He  may  also  be  a  voyageur,  William 
Perkins  (see  Doc.  No.  95,  notes  135  and  136).  The  boy  was  probably  named 
for  the  missionary  H.  W.  K.  Perkins. 

88.  JCF  now  starts  south  from  the  Dalles,  journeying  through  central 
Oregon  along  the  waters  of  the  Deschutes. 

577 


the  thermometer  was  at  20°.  Left  camp  at  10  o'clock,  the  road  lead- 
ing along  tributaries  of  the  Tinanens,  and  being,  so  far,  very  good. 
We  turned  to  the  right  at  the  fork  of  the  trail,  ascending  by  a  steep 
ascent  along  a  spur  to  the  dividing  grounds  between  this  stream  and 
the  waters  of  Fall  river.  The  creeks  we  had  passed  were  timbered 
principally  with  oak  and  other  deciduous  trees.  Snow  lies  every 
where  here  on  the  ground,  and  we  had  a  slight  fall  during  the  morn- 
ing; but  towards  noon  the  gray  sky  yielded  to  a  bright  sun.  This 
morning  we  had  a  grand  view  of  St.  Helens  and  Regnier:  the  latter 
appeared  of  a  conical  form,  and  very  lofty,  leading  the  eye  far  up 
into  the  sky.  The  line  of  the  timbered  country  is  very  distinctly 
marked  here,  the  bare  hills  making  with  it  a  remarkable  contrast. 
The  summit  of  the  ridge  commanded  a  fine  view  of  the  Taih 
[Tygh]  prairie,  and  the  stream  running  through  it,  which  is  a  tribu- 
tary to  the  Fall  river,  the  chasm  of  which  is  visible  to  the  right.  A 
steep  descent  of  a  mountain  hill  brought  us  down  into  the  valley, 
and  we  encamped  on  the  stream  after  dark,  guided  by  the  light  of 
fires,  which  some  naked  Indians  belonging  to  a  village  on  the  op- 
posite side  were  kindling  for  us  on  the  bank.  This  is  a  large  branch 
[White  River]  of  the  Fall  river.  There  was  a  broad  band  of  thick  ice 
some  fifteen  feet  wide  on  either  bank,  and  the  river  current  is  swift 
and  bold.  The  night  was  cold  and  clear,  and  we  made  our  astronomi- 
cal observation  this  evening  with  the  thermometer  at  20°. 

In  anticipation  of  coming  hardship,  and  to  spare  our  horses,  there 
was  much  walking  done  to-day;  and  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  and  myself 
made  the  day's  journey  on  foot.  Somewhere  near  the  mouth  of  this 
stream  are  the  falls  from  which  the  river  takes  its  name. 

November  27. — A  fine  view  of  Mount  Hood  this  morning;  a  rose- 
colored  mass  of  snow,  bearing  S.  85°  W.  by  compass.  The  sky  is 
clear,  and  the  air  cold;  the  thermometer  2°. 5  below  zero;  the  trees 
and  bushes  glittering  white,  and  the  rapid  stream  filled  with  floating 
ice. 

Stiletsi  and  the  White  Crane,  two  Indian  chiefs  who  had  accom- 
panied us  thus  far,  took  their  leave,  and  we  resumed  our  journey  at 
10  o'clock.  We  ascended  by  a  steep  hill  from  the  river  bottom,  which 
is  sandy,  to  a  volcanic  plain,  around  which  lofty  hills  sweep  in  a  reg- 
ular form.  It  is  cut  up  by  gullies  of  basaltic  rock,  escarpments  of 
which  appear  every  where  in  the  hills.  This  plain  is  called  the  Taih 
prairie  [Tygh  Valley],  and  is  sprinkled  with  some  scattered  pines. 
The  country  is  now  far  more  interesting  to  a  traveller  than  the  route 

578 


along  the  Snake  and  Columbia  rivers.  To  our  right  we  had  always 
the  mountains,  from  the  midst  of  whose  dark  pine  forests  the  iso- 
lated snowy  peaks  were  looking  out  like  giants.  They  served  us  for 
grand  beacons  to  show  the  rate  at  which  we  advanced  in  our  jour- 
ney. Mount  Hood  was  already  becoming  an  old  acquaintance,  and, 
when  we  ascended  the  prairie,  we  obtained  a  bearing  to  Mount  Jef- 
ferson, S.  23°  W.  The  Indian  superstition  has  peopled  these  lofty 
peaks  with  evil  spirits,  and  they  have  never  yet  known  the  tread  of  a 
human  foot.  Sternly  drawn  against  the  sky,  they  look  so  high  and 
steep,  so  snowy  and  rocky,  that  it  would  appear  almost  impossible  to 
climb  them ;  but  still  a  trial  would  have  its  attractions  for  the  adven- 
turous traveller.  A  small  trail  takes  off  through  the  prairie,  towards 
a  low  point  in  the  range,  and  perhaps  there  is  here  a  pass  into  the 
Walahmette  valley.  Crossing  the  plain,  we  descended  by  a  rocky  hill 
into  the  bed  of  a  tributary  [Nena  Creek]  of  Fall  river,  and  made  an 
early  encampment.  The  water  was  in  holes,  and  frozen  over,  and  we 
were  obliged  to  cut  through  the  ice  for  the  animals  to  drink.  An  ox, 
which  was  rather  troublesome  to  drive,  was  killed  here  for  food. 

The  evening  was  fine,  the  sky  being  very  clear,  and  I  obtained  an 
immersion  of  the  third  satellite,  with  a  good  observation  of  an  emer- 
sion of  the  first;  the  latter  of  which  gives  for  the  longitude,  121°  02' 
43";  the  latitude,  by  observation,  being  45°  06' 45".  The  night  was 
cold — the  thermometer  during  the  observations  standing  at  9°. 

November  28.— The  sky  was  clear  in  the  morning,  but  suddenly 
clouded  over,  and  at  sunrise  began  to  snow,  with  the  thermometer 
at  18°. 

We  traversed  a  broken  high  country,  partly  timbered  with  pine, 
and  about  noon  crossed  a  mountainous  ridge,  in  which,  from  the 
rock  occasionally  displayed,  the  formation  consists  of  compact  lava. 
Frequent  tracks  of  elk  were  visible  in  the  snow.  On  our  right,  in  the 
afternoon,  a  high  plain,  partially  covered  with  pine,  extended  about 
ten  miles,  to  the  foot  of  the  Cascade  mountains. 

At  evening  we  encamped  in  a  basin  narrowly  surrounded  by  rocky 
hills,  after  a  day's  journey  of  21  miles.  The  surrounding  rocks  are 
either  volcanic  products,  or  highly  altered  by  volcanic  action,  con- 
sisting of  quartz  and  reddish-colored  siliceous  masses. 

November  29.— We  emerged  from  the  basin,  by  a  narrow  pass, 
upon  a  considerable  branch  of  Fall  river,  running  to  the  eastward 
through  a  narrow  valley.  The  trail,  descending  this  stream,  brought 
us  to  a  locality  of  hot  springs,  which  were  on  either  bank.  Those  on 

579 


the  left,  which  were  formed  into  deep  handsome  basins,  would  have 
been  delightful  baths,  if  the  outer  air  had  not  been  so  keen,  the  ther- 
mometer in  these  being  at  89°.  There  were  others,  on  the  opposite 
side,  at  the  foot  of  an  escarpment,  in  which  the  temperature  of  the 
water  was  134°.  These  waters  deposited  around  the  spring  a  brec- 
ciated  mass  of  quartz  and  feldspar,  much  of  it  of  a  reddish  color 
[on  Warm  Springs  River]. 

We  crossed  the  stream  here,  and  ascended  again  to  a  high  plain, 
from  an  elevated  point  of  which  we  obtained  a  view  of  six  of  the 
great  peaks — Mount  Jefiferson,  followed  to  the  southward  by  two 
others  of  the  same  class;  and  succeeding,  at  a  still  greater  distance  to 
the  southward,  were  three  other  lower  peaks,  clustering  together  in 
a  branch  ridge.  These,  like  the  great  peaks,  were  snowy  masses,  sec- 
ondary only  to  them;  and,  from  the  best  examination  our  time  per- 
mitted, we  are  inclined  to  believe  that  the  range  to  which  they 
belong  is  a  branch  from  the  great  chain  which  here  bears  to  the  west- 
ward. The  trail  during  the  remainder  of  the  day  followed  near  to 
the  large  stream  on  the  left,  which  was  continuously  walled  in  be- 
tween high  rocky  banks.  We  halted  for  the  night  on  a  little  by- 
stream. 

November  30. — Our  journey  to-day  was  short.  Passing  over  a  high 
plain,  on  which  were  scattered  cedars,  with  frequent  beds  of  volcanic 
rock  in  fragments  interspersed  among  the  grassy  grounds,  we  arrived 
suddenly  on  the  verge  of  the  steep  and  rocky  descent  to  the  valley  of 
the  stream  we  had  been  following,  and  which  here  ran  directly 
across  our  path,  emerging  from  the  mountains  on  the  right.  You  will 
remark  that  the  country  is  abundantly  watered  with  large  streams, 
which  pour  down  from  the  neighboring  range. 

These  streams  are  characterized  by  the  narrow  and  chasm-like 
valleys  in  which  they  run,  generally  sunk  a  thousand  feet  below  the 
plain.  At  the  verge  of  this  plain,  they  frequently  commence  in  verti- 
cal precipices  of  basaltic  rock,  and  which  leave  only  casual  places  at 
which  they  can  be  entered  by  horses.  The  road  across  the  country, 
which  would  otherwise  be  very  good,  is  rendered  impracticable  for 
wagons  by  these  streams.  There  is  another  trail  among  the  moun- 
tains, usually  followed  in  the  summer,  which  the  snows  now  com- 
pelled us  to  avoid;  and  I  have  reason  to  believe  that  this,  passing 
nearer  the  heads  of  these  streams,  would  afford  a  much  better  road. 

At  such  places,  the  gun  carriage  was  unlimbered,  and  separately 
descended  by  hand.  Continuing  a  few  miles  up  the  left  bank  of  the 

580 


river,  we  encamped  early  in  an  open  bottom  among  the  pines,  a  short 
distance  below  a  lodge  of  Indians.  Here,  along  the  river  the  bluflfs 
present  escarpments  seven  or  eight  hundred  feet  in  height,  contain- 
ing strata  of  a  very  fine  porcelain  clay,  overlaid,  at  the  height  of 
about  five  hundred  feet,  by  a  massive  stratum  of  compact  basalt  one 
hundred  feet  in  thickness,  which  again  is  succeeded  above  by  other 
strata  of  volcanic  rocks.  The  clay  strata  are  variously  colored,  some  of 
them  very  nearly  as  white  as  chalk,  and  very  fine  grained.  Specimens 
brought  from  these  have  been  subjected  to  microscopical  examina- 
tion by  Professor  [J.  W.]  Bailey,  of  West  Point,  and  are  considered 
by  him  to  constitute  one  of  the  most  remarkable  deposites  of  fluvia- 
tile  infusoria  on  record.  While  they  abound  in  genera  and  species 
which  are  common  in  fresh  water,  but  which  rarely  thrive  where  the 
water  is  even  brackish,  not  one  decidedly  marine  form  is  to  be  found 
among  them;  and  their  fresh-water  origin  is  therefore  beyond  a 
doubt.  It  is  equally  certain  that  they  lived  and  died  at  the  situation 
where  they  were  found,  as  they  could  scarcely  have  been  transported 
by  running  waters  without  an  admixture  of  sandy  particles;  from 
which,  however,  they  are  remarkably  free.  Fossil  infusoria  of  a  fresh- 
water origin  had  been  previously  detected  by  Mr.  Bailey  in  speci- 
mens brought  by  Mr.  James  D.  Dana  from  the  tertiary  formation  of 
Oregon.  Most  of  the  species  in  those  specimens  differed  so  much 
from  those  now  living  and  known,  that  he  was  led  to  infer 
that  they  might  belong  to  extinct  species,  and  considered  them  also 
as  affording  proof  of  an  alternation,  in  the  formation  from  which 
they  were  obtained,  of  fresh  and  salt  water  deposites,  which,  com- 
mon enough  in  Europe,  had  not  hitherto  been  noticed  in  the  United 
States.  Coming  evidently  from  a  locality  entirely  different,  our  speci- 
mens* show  very  few  species  in  common  with  those  brought  by  Mr, 
Dana,  but  bear  a  much  closer  resemblance  to  those  inhabiting  the 
northeastern  States.  It  is  possible  that  they  are  from  a  more  recent 
deposite;  but  the  presence  of  a  few  remarkable  forms  which  are 
common  to  the  two  localities  renders  it  more  probable  that  there  is 
no  great  difference  in  their  age. 

I  obtained  here  a  good  observation  of  an  emersion  of  the  second 


*  The  specimens  obtained  at  this  locality  are  designated  in  the  appendix  by 
the  Nos.  53,  54,  55,  56,  57,  58,  59,  60.  The  results  obtained  by  Mr.  Bailey, 
in  his  examination  of  specimens  from  the  infusorial  strata,  with  a  plate  ex- 
hibiting some  of  the  most  interesting  forms,  will  be  found  imbodied  in  the 
appendix. 

581 


satellite;  but  clouds,  which  rapidly  overspread  the  sky,  prevented  the 
usual  number  of  observations.  Those  which  we  succeeded  in  obtain- 
ing are,  however,  good ;  and  give  for  the  latitude  of  the  place  44°  35' 
23",  and  for  the  longitude  from  the  satellite  121°  10' 25". 

December  1. — A  short  distance  above  our  encampment,  we  crossed 
this  river,  which  was  thickly  lined  along  its  banks  with  ice.  In  com- 
mon with  all  these  mountain  streams,  the  water  was  very  clear,  and 
the  current  swift.  It  was  not  every  where  fordable,  and  the  water 
was  three  or  four  feet  deep  at  our  crossing,  and  perhaps  a  hundred 
feet  wide.  As  was  frequently  the  case  at  such  places,  one  of  the  mules 
got  his  pack,  consisting  of  sugar,  thoroughly  wet,  and  turned  into 
molasses.  One  of  the  guides  informed  me  that  this  was  a  "salmon 
water,"  and  pointed  out  several  ingeniously  contrived  places  to  catch 
the  fish;  among  the  pines  in  the  bottom  I  saw  an  immense  one,  about 
twelve  feet  in  diameter.  A  steep  ascent  from  the  opposite  bank  de- 
layed us  again ;  and  as,  by  the  information  of  our  guides,  grass  would 
soon  become  very  scarce,  we  encamped  on  the  height  of  land,  in  a 
marshy  place  among  the  pines,  where  there  was  an  abundance  of 
grass.  We  found  here  a  single  Nez  Perce  family,  who  had  a  very 
handsome  horse  in  their  drove,  which  we  endeavored  to  obtain  in  ex- 
change for  a  good  cow;  but  the  man  "had  two  hearts,"  or,  rather,  he 
had  one  and  his  wife  had  another:  she  wanted  the  cow,  but  he  loved 
the  horse  too  much  to  part  with  it.  These  people  attach  great  value  to 
cattle,  with  which  they  are  endeavoring  to  supply  themselves. 

December  2. — In  the  first  rays  of  the  sun,  the  mountain  peaks  this 
morning  presented  a  beautiful  appearance,  the  snow  being  entirely 
covered  with  a  hue  of  rosy  gold.  We  travelled  to-day  over  a  very 
stony,  elevated  plain,  about  which  were  scattered  cedar  and  pine, 
and  encamped  on  another  large  branch  [Metolius  River]  of  Fall 
river.  We  were  gradually  ascending  to  a  more  elevated  region, 
which  would  have  been  indicated  by  the  rapidly  increasing  quan- 
tities of  snow  and  ice,  had  we  not  known  it  by  other  means.  A  mule 
which  was  packed  with  our  cooking  utensils  wandered  off  among 
the  pines  unperceived,  and  several  men  were  sent  back  to  search 
for  it. 

December  3. — Leaving  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  with  the  party,  I  went 
ahead  with  the  howitzer  and  a  few  men,  in  order  to  gain  time,  as  our 
progress  with  the  gun  was  necessarily  slower.  The  country  continued 
the  same — very  stony,  with  cedar  and  pine;  and  we  rode  on  until 


582 


dark,  when  we  encamped  on  a  hill  side  covered  with  snow,  which 
we  used  to-night  for  water,  as  we  were  unable  to  reach  any  stream. 

December  4. — Our  animals  had  taken  the  back  track,  although  a 
great  number  were  hobbled ;  and  we  were  consequently  delayed  un- 
til noon.  Shortly  after  we  had  left  this  encampment,  the  mountain 
trail  from  Dalles  joined  that  on  which  we  were  travelling.  After 
passing  for  several  miles  over  an  artemisia  plain,  the  trail  entered  a 
beautiful  pine  forest,  through  which  we  travelled  for  several  hours; 
and  about  4  o'clock  descended  into  the  valley  of  another  large 
branch,  on  the  bottom  of  which  were  spaces  of  open  pines,  with  oc- 
casional meadows  of  good  grass,  in  one  of  which  we  encamped.  The 
stream  is  very  swift  and  deep,  and  about  40  feet  wide,  and  nearly 
half  frozen  over.  Among  the  timber  here,  are  larches  140  feet  high, 
and  over  3  feet  in  diameter.  We  had  to-night  the  rare  sight  of  a  lunar 
rainbow. 

December  5. — To-day  the  country  was  all  pine  forest;  and  beauti- 
ful weather  made  our  journey  delightful.  It  was  too  warm  at  noon 
for  winter  clothes;  and  the  snow,  which  lay  every  where  in  patches 
through  the  forest,  was  melting  rapidly.  After  a  few  hours'  ride,  we 
came  upon  a  fine  stream  in  the  midst  of  the  forest,  which  proved  to 
be  the  principal  branch  of  Fall  [Deschutes]  river.  It  was  occasionally 
200  feet  wide — sometimes  narrowed  to  40  feet;  the  waters  very  clear, 
and  frequently  deep.  We  ascended  along  the  river,  which  sometimes 
presented  sheets  of  foaming  cascades;  its  banks  occasionally  black- 
ened with  masses  of  scoriated  rock,  and  found  a  good  encampment 
on  the  verge  of  an  open  bottom,  which  had  been  an  old  camping 
ground  of  the  Cayuse  Indians.  A  great  number  of  deer  horns  were 
lying  about,  indicating  game  in  the  neighborhood.  The  timber  was 
uniformly  large;  some  of  the  pines  measuring  22  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence at  the  ground,  and  12  to  13  feet  at  six  feet  above. 

In  all  our  journeying,  we  had  never  travelled  through  a  country 
where  the  rivers  were  so  abounding  in  falls,  and  the  name  of  this 
stream  is  singularly  characteristic.  At  every  place  where  we  come  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  river,  is  heard  the  roaring  of  falls.  The  rock 
along  the  banks  of  the  stream,  and  the  ledge  over  which  it  falls,  is  a 
scoriated  basalt,  with  a  bright  metallic  fracture.  The  stream  goes  over 
in  one  clear  pitch,  succeeded  by  a  foaming  cataract  of  several  hun- 
dred yards.  In  the  little  bottom  above  the  falls,  a  small  stream  dis- 
charges into  an  entonnoir,  and  disappears  below. 


583 


We  had  made  an  early  encampment,  and  in  the  course  of  the  eve- 
ning Mr.  Fitzpatrick  joined  us  here  with  the  lost  mule.  Our  lodge 
poles  were  nearly  worn  out,  and  we  found  here  a  handsome  set,  lean- 
ing against  one  of  the  trees,  very  white,  and  cleanly  scraped.  Had  the 
owners  been  here,  we  would  have  purchased  them;  but  as  they  were 
not,  we  merely  left  the  old  ones  in  their  place,  with  a  small  quantity 
of  tobacco. 

December  6. — The  morning  was  frosty  and  clear.  We  continued 
up  the  stream  on  undulating  forest  ground,  over  which  there  was 
scattered  much  fallen  timber.  We  met  here  a  village  of  Nez  Perce 
Indians,  who  appeared  to  be  coming  down  from  the  mountains,  and 
had  with  them  fine  bands  of  horses.  With  them  were  a  few  Snake 
Indians  of  the  root-digging  species.  From  the  forest  we  emerged  into 
an  open  valley  ten  or  twelve  miles  wide,  through  which  the  stream 
was  flowing  tranquilly,  upward  of  two  hundred  feet  broad,  with  oc- 
casional islands,  and  bordered  with  fine  broad  bottoms.  Crossing  the 
river,  which  here  issues  from  a  great  mountain  ridge  on  the  right, 
we  continued  up  the  southern  and  smaller  branch  [Little  Deschutes 
River],  over  a  level  country,  consisting  of  fine  meadow  land,  alter- 
nating with  pine  forests,  and  encamped  on  it  early  in  the  evening. 
A  warm  sunshine  made  the  day  pleasant. 

December  7.— To-day  we  had  good  travelling  ground;  the  trail 
leading  sometimes  over  rather  sandy  soils  in  the  pine  forest,  and 
sometimes  over  meadow  land  along  the  stream.  The  great  beauty  of 
the  country  in  summer  constantly  suggested  itself  to  our  imagina- 
tions; and  even  now  we  found  it  beautiful,  as  we  rode  along  these 
meadows,  from  half  a  mile  to  two  miles  wide.  The  rich  soil  and  excel- 
lent water,  surrounded  by  noble  forests,  make  a  picture  that  would 
delight  the  eye  of  a  farmer;  and  I  regret  that  the  very  small  scale 
of  the  map  would  not  allow  us  to  give  some  representation  of  these 
features  of  the  country. 

I  observed  to-night  an  occultation  of  v  Geminorum;  which,  al- 
though at  the  bright  limb  of  the  moon,  appears  to  give  a  very  good 
result,  that  has  been  adopted  for  the  longitude.  The  occultation,  ob- 
servations of  satellites,  and  our  position  deduced  from  daily  sur- 
veys with  the  compass,  agree  remarkably  well  together,  and  mutually 
support  and  strengthen  each  other.  The  latitude  of  the  camp  is  43° 
30' 36";  and  longitude,  deduced  from  the  occultation,  121°  33' 50''. 

December  8.— To-day  we  crossed  the  last  branch  [Little  Des- 
chutes] of  the  Fall  river,  issuing,  like  all  the  others  we  had  crossed, 

584 


in  a  southwesterly  direction  from  the  mountains.  Our  direction  was 
a  Httle  east  of  south,  the  trail  leading  constantly  through  pine  forests. 
The  soil  was  generally  bare,  consisting,  in  greater  part,  of  a  yellowish 
white  pumice  stone,  producing  varieties  of  magnificent  pines,  but  not 
a  blade  of  grass;  and  to-night  our  horses  were  obliged  to  do  without 
food,  and  use  snow  for  water.  These  pines  are  remarkable  for  the 
red  color  of  the  bolls;  and  among  them  occurs  a  species,  of  which 
the  Indians  had  informed  me  when  leaving  the  Dalles.  The  unusual 
size  of  the  cone  (16  to  18  inches  long)  had  attracted  their  attention; 
and  they  pointed  it  out  to  me  among  the  curiosities  of  the  country. 
They  are  more  remarkable  for  their  large  diameter  than  their 
height,  which  usually  averages  only  about  120  feet.  The  leaflets  are 
short — only  two  or  three  inches  long,  and  five  in  a  sheath ;  the  bark 
of  a  red  color. 

December  9. — The  trail  leads  always  through  splendid  pine  forests. 
Crossing  dividing  grounds  by  a  very  fine  road,  we  descended  very 
gently  towards  the  south.  The  weather  was  pleasant,  and  we  halted 
late.  The  soil  was  very  much  like  that  of  yesterday;  and  on  the  sur- 
face of  a  hill,  near  our  encampment,  were  displayed  beds  of  pumice 
stone;  but  the  soil  produced  no  grass,  and  again  the  animals  fared 
badly. 

December  10. — The  country  began  to  improve;  and  about  11 
o'clock  we  reached  a  spring  of  cold  water  on  the  edge  of  a  savannah, 
or  grassy  meadow,  which  our  guides  informed  us  was  an  arm  of  the 
Tlamath  lake;  and  a  few  miles  further  we  entered  upon  an  extensive 
meadow,  or  lake  of  grass,  surrounded  by  timbered  mountains.  This 
was  the  Tlamath  lake.^^  It  was  a  picturesque  and  beautiful  spot,  and 
rendered  more  attractive  to  us  by  the  abundant  and  excellent  grass, 
which  our  animals,  after  travelling  through  pine  forests,  so  much 
needed;  but  the  broad  sheet  of  water  which  constitutes  a  lake  was 
not  to  be  seen.  Overlooking  it,  immediately  west,  were  several  snowy 
knobs,  belonging  to  what  we  have  considered  a  branch  of  the  Cas- 
cade range.  A  low  point  covered  with  pines  made  out  into  the  lake, 
which  afforded  us  a  good  place  for  an  encampment,  and  for  the  secu- 
rity of  our  horses,  which  were  guarded  in  view  on  the  open  meadow. 
The  character  of  courage  and  hostility  attributed  to  the  Indians  of 


89.  The  largest  body  of  water  in  Oregon,  now  called  Upper  Klamath  Lake, 
had  been  JCF's  destination,  but  he  failed  to  reach  it.  He  has  now  reached 
Klamath  Marsh,  some  thirty  miles  to  the  north  of  the  lake,  lying  partly  inside 
the  Klamath  National  Forest  Wildlife  Refuge.  He  will  now  turn  to  the  east. 


this  quarter  induced  more  than  usual  precaution ;  and,  seeing  smokes 
rising  from  the  middle  of  the  lake  (or  savannah)  and  along  the  op- 
posite shores,  I  directed  the  howitzer  to  be  fired.  It  was  the  first  time 
our  guides  had  seen  it  discharged;  and  the  bursting  of  the  shell  at  a 
distance,  which  was  something  like  the  second  fire  of  the  gun, 
amazed  and  bewildered  them  with  delight.  It  inspired  them  with 
triumphant  feelings;  but  on  the  camps  at  a  distance  the  effect  was 
different,  for  the  smokes  in  the  lake  and  on  the  shores  immediately 
disappeared. 

The  point  on  which  we  were  encamped  forms,  with  the  opposite 
eastern  shore,  a  narrow  neck,  connecting  the  body  of  the  lake  with 
a  deep  cove  or  bay  which  receives  the  principal  affluent  stream,  and 
over  the  greater  part  of  which  the  water  (or  rather  ice)  was  at  this 
time  dispersed  in  shallow  pools.  Among  the  grass,  and  scattered  over 
the  prairie  lake,  appeared  to  be  similar  marshes.  It  is  simply  a  shal- 
low basin,  which,  for  a  short  period  at  the  time  of  melting  snows,  is 
covered  with  water  from  the  neighboring  mountains;  but  this  prob- 
ably soon  runs  off,  and  leaves  for  the  remainder  of  the  year  a  green 
savannah,  through  the  midst  of  which  the  river  Tlamath,*"^  which 
flows  to  the  ocean,  winds  its  way  to  the  outlet  on  the  southwestern 
side. 

December  11. — No  Indians  made  their  appearance,  and  I  deter- 
mined to  pay  them  a  visit.  Accordingly,  the  people  were  gathered  to- 
gether, and  we  rode  out  towards  the  village  in  the  middle  of  the  lake, 
which  one  of  our  guides  had  previously  visited.  It  could  not  be 
directly  approached,  as  a  large  part  of  the  lake  appeared  a  marsh; 
and  there  were  sheets  of  ice  among  the  grass,  on  which  our  horses 
could  not  keep  their  footing.  We  therefore  followed  the  guide  for  a 
considerable  distance  along  the  forest;  and  then  turned  off  towards 
the  village,  which  we  soon  began  to  see  was  a  few  large  huts,  on  the 
tops  of  which  were  collected  the  Indians.  When  we  had  arrived 
within  half  a  mile  of  the  village,  two  persons  were  seen  advancing  to 
meet  us;  and,  to  please  the  fancy  of  our  guides,  we  ranged  ourselves 
into  a  long  line,  riding  abreast,  while  they  galloped  ahead  to  meet 
the  strangers. 

We  were  surprised,  on  riding  up,  to  find  one  of  them  a  woman, 
having  never  before  known  a  squaw  to  take  any  part  in  the  business 
of  war.  They  were  the  village  chief  and  his  wife,  who,  in  excitement 


90.  The  Williamson  River. 

586 


and  alarm  at  the  unusual  event  and  appearance,  had  come  out  to 
meet  their  fate  together.  The  chief  was  a  very  prepossessing  Indian, 
w^ith  very  handsome  features,  and  a  singularly  soft  and  agreeable 
voice — so  remarkable  as  to  attract  general  notice. 

The  huts  were  grouped  together  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  which, 
from  being  spread  out  in  a  shallow  marsh  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
lake,  was  collected  here  into  a  single  stream.  They  were  large  round 
huts,  perhaps  20  feet  in  diameter,  with  rounded  tops,  on  which  was 
the  door  by  which  they  descended  into  the  interior.  Within,  they 
were  supported  by  posts  and  beams. 

Almost  like  plants,  these  people  seem  to  have  adapted  themselves 
to  the  soil,  and  to  be  growing  on  what  the  immediate  locality 
afforded.  Their  only  subsistence  at  this  time  appeared  to  be  a  small 
fish,  great  quantities  of  which,  that  had  been  smoked  and  dried,  were 
suspended  on  strings  about  the  lodge.  Heaps  of  straw  were  lying 
around;  and  their  residence  in  the  midst  of  grass  and  rushes  had 
taught  them  a  peculiar  skill  in  converting  this  material  to  useful 
purposes.  Their  shoes  were  made  of  straw  or  grass,  which  seemed 
well  adapted  for  a  snowy  country;  and  the  women  wore  on  their 
head  a  closely  woven  basket,  which  made  a  very  good  cap.  Among 
other  things,  were  parti-colored  mats  about  four  feet  square,  which 
we  purchased  to  lay  on  the  snow  under  our  blankets,  and  to  use  for 
table  cloths. 

Numbers  of  singular-looking  dogs,  resembling  wolves,  were  sitting 
on  the  tops  of  the  huts;  and  of  these  we  purchased  a  young  one, 
which,  after  its  birthplace,  was  named  Tlamath.  The  language 
spoken  by  these  Indians  is  different  from  that  of  the  Shoshonee  and 
Columbia  river  tribes;  and  otherwise  than  by  signs  they  cannot  un- 
derstand each  other.  They  made  us  comprehend  that  they  were  at  war 
with  the  people  who  lived  to  the  southward  and  to  the  eastward ;  but  I 
could  obtain  from  them  nd  certain  information.  The  river  on  which 
they  live  enters  the  Cascade  mountains  on  the  western  side  of  the 
lake,  and  breaks  through  them  by  a  passage  impracticable  for  travel- 
lers; but  over  the  mountains,  to  the  northward,  are  passes  which  pre- 
sent no  other  obstacle  than  in  the  almost  impenetrable  forests. 
Unlike  any  Indians  we  had  previously  seen,  these  wore  shells  in  their 
noses.  We  returned  to  our  camp,  after  remaining  here  an  hour  or 
two,  accompanied  by  a  number  of  Indians. 

In  order  to  recruit  a  little  the  strength  of  our  animals,  and  obtain 
some  acquaintance  with  the  locality,  we  remained  here  for  the  re- 

587 


mainder  of  the  day.  By  observation,  the  latitude  of  the  camp  was  42° 
56' 5r';  and  the  diameter  of  the  lake,  or  meadow,  as  has  been  inti- 
mated, about  20  miles.  It  is  a  picturesque  and  beautiful  spot;  and, 
under  the  hand  of  cultivation,  might  become  a  little  paradise.  Game 
is  found  in  the  forest;  timbered  and  snowy  mountains  skirt  it,  and 
fertility  characterizes  it.  Situated  near  the  heads  of  three  rivers,  and 
on  the  line  of  inland  communication  with  California,  and  near  to 
Indians  noted  for  treachery,  it  will  naturally,  in  the  progress  of  the 
settlement  of  Oregon,  become  a  point  for  military  occupation  and 
settlement. 

From  Tlamath  lake,  the  further  continuation  of  our  voyage  as- 
sumed a  character  of  discovery  and  exploration,  which,  from  the 
Indians  here,  we  could  obtain  no  information  to  direct,  and  where 
the  imaginary  maps  of  the  country,  instead  of  assisting,  exposed  us 
to  suffering  and  defeat.  In  our  journey  across  the  desert,  Mary's  lake, 
and  the  famous  Buenaventura  river,  were  two  points  on  which  I  re- 
lied to  recruit  the  animals,  and  repose  the  party.  Forming,  agreeably 
to  the  best  maps  in  my  possession,  a  connected  water  line  from  the 
Rocky  mountains  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  I  felt  no  other  anxiety  than  to 
pass  safely  across  the  intervening  desert  to  the  banks  of  the  Buena- 
ventura, where,  in  the  softer  climate  of  a  more  southern  latitude,  our 
horses  might  find  grass  to  sustain  them,  and  ourselves  be  sheltered 
from  the  rigors  of  winter  and  from  the  inhospitable  desert.  The 
guides  who  had  conducted  us  thus  far  on  our  journey  were  about  to 
return ;  and  I  endeavored  in  vain  to  obtain  others  to  lead  us,  even  for 
a  few  days,  in  the  direction  (east)  which  we  wished  to  go.  The  chief 
to  whom  I  applied  alleged  the  want  of  horses,  and  the  snow  on  the 
mountains  across  which  our  course  would  carry  us,  and  the  sickness 
of  his  family,  as  reasons  for  refusing  to  go  with  us, 

December  12. — This  morning  the  camp  was  thronged  with  Tla- 
math Indians  from  the  southeastern  shore  of  the  lake ;  but,  knowing 
the  treacherous  disposition  which  is  a  remarkable  characteristic  of 
the  Indians  south  of  the  Columbia,  the  camp  was  kept  constantly  on 
its  guard.  I  was  not  unmindful  of  the  disasters  which  Smith  and 
other  travellers  had  met  with  in  this  country,**^  and  therefore  was 
equally  vigilant  in  guarding  against  treachery  and  violence. 


91.  Jedediah  Smith  and  his  party  of  trappers  were  on  their  way  from  Cali- 
fornia to  Fort  Vancouver  in   1828  when  they  were  attacked  on   14  July  by 


588 


According  to  the  best  information  I  had  been  able  to  obtain  from 
the  Indians,  in  a  few  days'  travelhng  we  should  reach  another  large 
water,  probably  a  lake,  which  they  indicated  exactly  in  the  course  we 
were  about  to  pursue.  We  struck  our  tents  at  10  o'clock,  and  crossed 
the  lake  [marsh]  in  a  nearly  east  direction,  where  it  has  the  least 
extension — the  breadth  of  the  arm  being  here  only  about  a  mile  and 
a  half.  There  were  ponds  of  ice,  with  but  little  grass,  for  the  greater 
part  of  the  way;  and  it  was  difficult  to  get  the  pack  animals  across, 
which  fell  frequently,  and  could  not  get  up  with  their  loads,  unas- 
sisted. The  morning  was  very  unpleasant,  snow  falling  at  intervals  in 
large  flakes,  and  the  sky  dark.  In  about  two  hours  we  succeeded  in 
getting  the  animals  over;  and,  after  travelling  another  hour  along 
the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake,  we  turned  up  into  a  cove  where  there 
was  a  sheltered  place  among  the  timber,  with  good  grass,  and  en- 
camped. The  Indians,  who  had  accompanied  us  so  far,  returned  to 
their  village  on  the  southeastern  shore.  Among  the  pines  here,  I 
noticed  some  five  or  six  feet  in  diameter. 

December  13. — The  night  has  been  cold;  the  peaks  around  the 
lake  gleam  out  brightly  in  the  morning  sun,  and  the  thermometer  is 
at  zero.  We  continued  up  the  hollow  formed  by  a  small  affluent  to 
the  lake,  and  immediately  entered  an  open  pine  forest  on  the  moun- 
tain. The  way  here  was  sometimes  obstructed  by  fallen  trees,  and  the 
snow  was  four  to  twelve  inches  deep.  The  mules  at  the  gun  pulled 
heavily,  and  walking  was  a  little  laborious.  In  the  midst  of  the  wood, 
we  heard  the  sound  of  galloping  horses,  and  were  agreeably  sur- 
prised by  the  unexpected  arrival  of  our  Tlamath  chief,  with  several 
Indians.  He  seemed  to  have  found  his  conduct  inhospitable  in  letting 
the  strangers  depart  without  a  guide  through  the  snow,  and  had 
come,  with  a  few  others,  to  pilot  us  a  day  or  two  on  the  way.  After 
travelling  in  an  easterly  direction  through  the  forest  for  about  four 
hours,  we  reached  a  considerable  stream,  with  a  border  of  good 
grass;  and  here,  by  the  advice  of  our  guides,  we  encamped.  It  is  about 
thirty  feet  wide,  and  two  to  four  feet  deep;  the  water  clear,  with 
some  current;  and,  according  to  the  information  of  our  Indians,  is 


Indians  of  the  Umpqua  River  region.  Fifteen  men  were  killed.  Smith  and  the 
two  men  who  were  away  from  the  camp  with  him,  searching  for  a  road,  es- 
caped, as  did  another  who  fled  the  scene.  Smith  went  on  to  Fort  Vancouver, 
where  he  was  befriended  by  Dr.  McLoughlin  (morgan  [1],  268-70). 


589 


the  principal  affluent  to  the  lake,  and  the  head  water  of  the  Tlamath 
river. 

A  very  clear  sky  enabled  me  to  obtain  here  to-night  good  observa- 
tions, including  an  emersion  of  the  first  satellite  of  Jupiter,  which 
give  for  the  longitude  121°  20' 42",  and  for  the  latitude  42°  51' 26". 
This  emersion  coincides  remarkably  well  with  the  result  obtained 
from  an  occultation  at  the  encampment  of  December  7th  to  8th, 
1843;  from  which  place,  the  line  of  our  survey  gives  an  easting  of 
thirteen  miles.  The  day's  journey  was  12  miles. 

December  14. — Our  road  was  over  a  broad  mountain,  and  we  rode 
seven  hours  in  a  thick  snow  storm,  always  through  pine  forests, 
when  we  came  down  upon  the  head  waters  of  another  stream,  on 
which  there  was  grass.  The  snow  lay  deep  on  the  ground,  and  only 
the  high  swamp  grass  appeared  above.  The  Indians  were  thinly 
clad,  and  I  had  remarked  during  the  day  that  they  suffered  from  the 
cold.  This  evening  they  told  me  that  the  snow  was  getting  too  deep 
on  the  mountain,  and  I  could  not  induce  them  to  go  any  farther.  The 
stream  we  had  struck  issued  from  the  mountain  in  an  easterly  direc- 
tion, turning  to  the  southward  a  short  distance  below;  and,  drawing 
its  course  upon  the  ground,  they  made  us  comprehend  that  it  pur- 
sued its  way  for  a  long  distance  in  that  direction,  uniting  with  many 
other  streams,  and  gradually  becoming  a  great  river.  Without  the 
subsequent  information,  which  confirmed  the  opinion,  we  became 
immediately  satisfied  that  this  water  formed  the  principal  stream 
of  the  Sacramento  river;''"  and,  consequently,  that  this  main  affluent 
of  the  bay  of  San  Francisco  had  its  source  within  the  limits  of  the 
United  States,  and  opposite  a  tributary  to  the  Columbia,  and  near 
the  head  of  the  Tlamath  river,  which  goes  to  the  ocean  north  of  42°, 
and  within  the  United  States. 

December  15.— A  present,  consisting  of  useful  goods,  afforded 
much  satisfaction  to  our  guides;  and,  showing  them  the  national 
flag,  I  explained  that  it  was  a  symbol  of  our  nation;  and  they  en- 
gaged always  to  receive  it  in  a  friendly  manner.  The  chief  pointed 
out  a  course,  by  following  which  we  would  arrive  at  the  big  water, 
where  no  more  snow  was  to  be  found.  Travelling  in  a  direction  N. 
60°  E.  by  compass,  which  the  Indians  informed  me  would  avoid  a 


92.  An  incorrect  conclusion.  He  is  still  in  the  Klamath  Lake  watershed,  and 
has  reached  a  tributary,  perhaps  Beaver  Creek,  of  the  Sycan  River.  Its  waters 
eventually  flow  into  the  Klannath  River,  issuing  from  Upper  Klamath  Lake. 

590 


bad  mountain  to  the  right,  we  crossed  the  Sacramento  where  it 
turned  to  the  southward,  and  entered  a  grassy  level  plain — a  smaller 
Grand  Rond ;  from  the  lower  end  of  which  the  river  issued  into  an 
inviting  country  of  low  rolling  hills.  Crossing  a  hard-frozen  swamp 
on  the  farther  side  of  the  Rond,  we  entered  again  the  pine  forest, 
in  which  very  deep  snow  made  our  travelling  slow  and  laborious. 
We  were  slowly  but  gradually  ascending  a  mountain;  and,  after  a 
hard  journey  of  seven  hours,  we  came  to  some  naked  places  among 
the  timber,  where  a  few  tufts  of  grass  showed  above  the  snow,  on  the 
side  of  a  hollow;  and  here  we  encamped.  Our  cow,  which  every  day 
got  poorer,  was  killed  here,  but  the  meat  was  rather  tough. 

December  16. — We  travelled  this  morning  through  snow  about 
three  feet  deep,  which,  being  crusted,  very  much  cut  the  feet  of  our 
animals.  The  mountain  still  gradually  rose;  we  crossed  several 
spring  heads  covered  with  quaking  asp;  otherwise  it  was  all  pine 
forest.  The  air  was  dark  with  falling  snow,  which  every  where 
weighed  down  the  trees.  The  depths  of  the  forest  were  profoundly 
still;  and  below,  we  scarce  felt  a  breath  of  the  wind  which  whirled 
the  snow  through  their  branches.  I  found  that  it  required  some  exer- 
tion of  constancy  to  adhere  steadily  to  one  course  through  the  woods, 
when  we  were  uncertain  how  far  the  forest  extended,  or  what  lay 
beyond;  and,  on  account  of  our  animals,  it  would  be  bad  to  spend 
another  night  on  the  mountain.  Towards  noon  the  forest  looked 
clear  ahead,  appearing  suddenly  to  terminate;  and  beyond  a  certain 
point  we  could  see  no  trees.  Riding  rapidly  ahead  to  this  spot,  we  found 
ourselves  on  the  verge  of  a  vertical  and  rocky  wall  of  the  mountain.  At 
our  feet — more  than  a  thousand  feet  below — we  looked  into  a  green 
prairie  country,  in  which  a  beautiful  lake,  some  twenty  miles  in 
length,  was  spread  along  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  its  shores  bor- 
dered with  green  grass.^"^  Just  then  the  sun  broke  out  among  the 
clouds,  and  illuminated  the  country  below,  while  around  us  the 
storm  raged  fiercely.  Not  a  particle  of  ice  was  to  be  seen  on  the  lake, 
or  snow  on  its  borders,  and  all  was  like  summer  or  spring.  The 
glow  of  the  sun  in  the  valley  below  brightened  up  our  hearts  with 
sudden  pleasure;  and  we  made  the  woods  ring  with  joyful  shouts  to 
those  behind;  and  gradually,  as  each  came  up,  he  stopped  to  enjoy 


93.  Summer  Lake,  on  the  eastern  edge  of  Klamath  National  Forest.  It  is 
landlocked,  having  no  external  drainage,  and  its  alkaline  waters  support 
waterfowl  but  no  fish. 


the  unexpected  scene.  Shivering  on  snow  three  feet  deep,  and  stiff- 
ening in  a  cold  north  wind,  we  exclaimed  at  once  that  the  names  of 
Summer  Lake  and  Winter  Ridge  should  be  applied  to  these  two 
proximate  places  of  such  sudden  and  violent  contrast. 

We  were  now  immediately  on  the  verge  of  the  forest  land,  in 
which  we  had  been  travelling  so  many  days;  and,  looking  forward 
to  the  east,  scarce  a  tree  was  to  be  seen.  Viewed  from  our  elevation, 
the  face  of  the  country  exhibited  only  rocks  and  grass,  and  presented 
a  region  in  which  the  artemisia  became  the  principal  wood,  furnish- 
ing to  its  scattered  inhabitants  fuel  for  their  fires,  building  material 
for  their  huts,  and  shelter  for  the  small  game  which  ministers  to 
their  hunger  and  nakedness.  Broadly  marked  by  the  boundary  of 
the  mountain  wall,  and  immediately  below  us,  were  the  first  waters 
of  that  Great  Interior  Basin  which  has  the  Wahsatch  and  Bear  river 
mountains  for  its  eastern,  and  the  Sierra  Nevada  for  its  western  rim; 
and  the  edge  of  which  we  had  entered  upwards,  of  three  months  be- 
fore, at  the  Great  Salt  lake. 

When  we  had  sufficiently  admired  the  scene  below,  we  began  to 
think  about  descending,  which  here  was  impossible,  and  we  turned 
towards  the  north,  travelling  always  along  the  rocky  wall.  We  con- 
tinued on  for  four  or  five  miles,  making  ineffectual  attempts  at  sev- 
eral places;  and  at  length  succeeded  in  getting  down  at  one  which 
was  extremely  difficult  of  descent.  Night  had  closed  in  before  the 
foremost  reached  the  bottom,  and  it  was  dark  before  we  all  found 
ourselves  together  in  the  valley.  There  were  three  or  four  half  dead 
dry  cedar  trees  on  the  shore,  and  those  who  first  arrived  kindled 
bright  fires  to  light  on  the  others.  One  of  the  mules  rolled  over  and 
over  two  or  three  hundred  feet  into  a  ravine,  but  recovered  himself, 
without  any  other  injury  than  to  his  pack ;  and  the  howitzer  was  left 
midway  the  mountain  until  morning.  By  observation,  the  latitude  of 
this  encampment  is  42°  57'  22".  It  delayed  us  until  near  noon  the 
next  day  to  recover  ourselves  and  put  every  thing  in  order ;  and  we 
made  only  a  short  camp  along  the  western  shore  of  the  lake,  which, 
in  the  summer  temperature  we  enjoyed  to-day,  justified  the  name  we 
had  given  it.  Our  course  would  have  taken  us  to  the  other  shore,  and 
over  the  highlands  beyond;  but  I  distrusted  the  appearance  of  the 
country,  and  decided  to  follow  a  plainly  beaten  Indian  trail  leading 
along  the  side  of  the  lake.  We  were  now  in  a  country  where  the 
scarcity  of  water  and  of  grass  makes  travelling  dangerous,  and  great 
caution  was  necessary. 

592 


December  18.— We  continued  on  the  trail  along  the  narrow  strip 
of  land  between  the  lake  and  the  high  rocky  wall,  from  which 
we  had  looked  down  two  days  before.  Almost  every  half  mile  we 
crossed  a  little  spring,  or  stream  of  pure  cold  water;  and  the  grass 
was  certainly  as  fresh  and  green  as  in  the  early  spring.  From  the 
white  efflorescence  along  the  shore  of  the  lake,  we  were  enabled  to 
judge  that  the  water  was  impure,  like  that  of  lakes  we  subsequently 
found;  but  the  mud  prevented  us  from  approaching  it.  We  en- 
camped near  the  eastern  point  of  the  lake,  where  there  appeared 
between  the  hills  a  broad  and  low  connecting  hollow  with  the  coun- 
try beyond.  From  a  rocky  hill  in  the  rear,  I  could  see,  marked  out 
by  a  line  of  yellow  dried  grass,  the  bed  of  a  stream,  which  probably 
connected  the  lake  with  other  waters  in  the  spring. 

The  observed  latitude  of  this  encampment  is  42°  42'  37''. 

December  19.— After  two  hours'  ride  in  an  easterly  direction, 
through  a  low  country,  the  high  ridge  with  pine  forest  still  to  our 
right,  and  a  rocky  and  bald  but  lower  one  on  the  left,  we  reached  a 
considerable  fresh-water  stream,  which  issues  from  the  piney  moun- 
tains. So  far  as  we  had  been  able  to  judge,  between  this  stream  and 
the  lake  we  had  crossed  dividing  grounds;  and  there  did  not  appear 
to  be  any  connexion,  as  might  be  inferred  from  the  impure  condition 
of  the  lake  water. 

The  rapid  stream  of  pure  water,^*  roaring  along  between  banks 
overhung  with  aspens  and  willows,  was  a  refreshing  and  unexpected 
sight;  and  we  followed  down  the  course  of  the  stream,  which 
brought  us  soon  into  a  marsh,  or  dry  lake,  formed  by  the  expanding 
waters  of  the  stream.  It  was  covered  with  high  reeds  and  rushes,  and 
large  patches  of  ground  had  been  turned  up  by  the  squaws  in  dig- 
ging for  roots,  as  if  a  farmer  had  been  preparing  the  land  for  grain. 
I  could  not  succeed  in  finding  the  plant  for  which  they  had  been 
digging.  There  were  frequent  trails,  and  fresh  tracks  of  Indians; 
and,  from  the  abundant  signs  visible,  the  black-tailed  hare  appears 
to  be  numerous  here.  It  was  evident  that,  in  other  seasons,  this  place 
was  a  sheet  of  water.  Crossing  this  marsh  towards  the  eastern  hills, 
and  passing  over  a  bordering  plain  of  heavy  sands,  covered  with 
artemisia,  we  encamped  before  sundown  on  the  creek,  which  here 
was  very  small,  having  lost  its  water  in  the  marshy  grounds.  We 
found  here  tolerably  good  grass.  The  wind  to-night  was  high,  and 


94.  Probably  the  Chewaucan  River. 

593 


we  had  no  longer  our  huge  pine  fires,  but  were  driven  to  our  old 
resource  of  small  dried  willows  and  artemisia.  About  twelve  miles 
ahead,  the  valley  appears  to  be  closed  in  by  a  high,  dark-looking 
ridge. 

December  20. — Travelling  for  a  few  hours  down  the  stream 
this  morning,  we  turned  a  point  of  the  hill  on  our  left,  and  came 
suddenly  in  sight  of  another  and  much  larger  lake,  which,  along  its 
eastern  shore,  was  closely  bordered  by  the  high  black  ridge  which 
walled  it  in  by  a  precipitous  face  on  this  side.  Throughout  this  region 
the  face  of  the  country  is  characterized  by  these  precipices  of  black 
volcanic  rock,  generally  enclosing  the  valleys  of  streams,  and  fre- 
quently terminating  the  hills.  Often  in  the  course  of  our  journey  we 
would  be  tempted  to  continue  our  road  up  the  gentle  ascent  of  a 
sloping  hill,  which,  at  the  summit,  would  terminate  abruptly  in  a 
black  precipice.  Spread  out  over  a  length  of  20  miles,  the  lake,  when 
we  first  came  in  view,  presented  a  handsome  sheet  of  water;  and  I 
gave  to  it  the  name  of  Lake  Abert,^'^  in  honor  of  the  chief  of  the 
corps  to  which  I  belonged.  The  fresh-water  stream  we  had  followed 
emptied  into  the  lake  by  a  little  fall;  and  I  was  doubtful  for  a  mo- 
ment whether  to  go  on,  or  encamp  at  this  place.  The  miry  ground 
in  the  neighborhood  of  the  lake  did  not  allow  us  to  examine  the 
water  conveniently,  and,  being  now  on  the  borders  of  a  desert  coun- 
try, we  were  moving  cautiously.  It  was,  however,  still  early  in  the 
day,  and  I  continued  on,  trusting  either  that  the  water  would  be 
drinkable,  or  that  we  should  find  some  little  spring  from  the  hill 
side.  We  were  following  an  Indian  trail  which  led  along  the  steep 
rocky  precipice;  a  black  ridge  along  the  western  shore  holding  out 
no  prospect  whatever.  The  white  efflorescences  which  lined  the  shore 
like  a  bank  of  snow,  and  the  disagreeable  odor  which  filled  the  air 
as  soon  as  we  came  near,  informed  us  too  plainly  that  the  water  be- 
longed to  one  of  those  fetid  salt  lakes  which  are  common  in  this  re- 
gion. We  continued  until  late  in  the  evening  to  work  along  the  rocky 
shore,  but,  as  often  afterwards,  the  dry  inhospitable  rock  deceived 
us;  and,  halting  on  the  lake,  we  kindled  up  fires  to  guide  those  who 


95.  Lake  Abert,  about  twenty-five  air-line  miles  southwest  of  Summer  Lake, 
is  another  of  those  landlocked  bodies  of  water  of  the  region  into  which  a  high 
concentration  of  salts  has  leached  from  the  surrounding  land.  Like  Summer 
Lake,  it  supports  no  fish,  and  has  the  typical  pale  green  cast  of  an  alkaline 
lake.  A  steep  and  barren  escarpment  along  the  east  side,  which  JCF  later 
describes,  is  now  called  Abert  Rim. 

594 


were  straggling  along  behind.  We  tried  the  water,  but  it  was  impos- 
sible to  drink  it,  and  most  of  the  people  to-night  lay  down  without 
eating;  but  some  of  us,  who  had  always  a  great  reluctance  to  close 
the  day  without  supper,  dug  holes  along  the  shore,  and  obtained 
water,  which,  being  filtered,  was  sufficiently  palatable  to  be  used, 
but  still  retained  much  of  its  nauseating  taste.  There  was  very  little 
grass  for  the  animals,  the  shore  being  lined  with  a  luxuriant  growth 
of  chenopodiaceous  shrubs,  which  burned  with  a  quick  bright  flame, 
and  made  our  firewood. 

The  next  morning  we  had  scarcely  travelled  two  hours  along  the 
shore  when  we  reached  a  place  where  the  mountains  made  a  bay, 
leaving  at  their  feet  a  low  bottom  around  the  lake.  Here  we  found 
numerous  hillocks  covered  with  rushes,  in  the  midst  of  which  were 
deep  holes,  or  springs  of  pure  water;  and  the  bottom  was  covered 
with  grass,  which,  although  of  a  salt  and  unwholesome  quality,  and 
mixed  with  saline  efflorescences,  was  still  abundant,  and  made  a  good 
halting  place  to  recruit  our  animals;  and  we  accordingly  encamped 
here  for  the  remainder  of  the  day.  I  rode  ahead  several  miles  to  as- 
certain if  there  was  any  appearance  of  a  watercourse  entering  the 
lake;  but  found  none,  the  hills  preserving  their  dry  character,  and 
the  shore  of  the  lake  sprinkled  with  the  same  white  powdery  sub- 
stance, and  covered  with  the  same  shrubs.  There  were  flocks  of 
ducks  on  the  lake,  and  frequent  tracks  of  Indians  along  the  shore, 
where  the  grass  had  been  recently  burnt  by  their  fires. 

We  ascended  the  bordering  mountain,  in  order  to  obtain  a  more 
perfect  view  of  the  lake  in  sketching  its  figure;  hills  sweep  entirely 
around  its  basin,  from  which  the  waters  have  no  outlet. 

December  22. — To-day  we  left  this  forbidding  lake.  Impassable 
rocky  ridges  barred  our  progress  to  the  eastward,  and  I  accordingly 
bore  oflF  towards  the  south,  over  an  extensive  sage  plain.  At  a  con- 
siderable distance  ahead,  and  a  little  on  our  left,  was  a  range  of 
snowy  mountains,  and  the  country  declined  gradually  towards  the 
foot  of  a  high  and  nearer  ridge  immediately  before  us,  which  pre- 
sented the  feature  of  black  precipices,  now  becoming  common  to  the 
country.  On  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  snow  was  visible;  and  there  be- 
ing every  indication  of  a  stream  at  its  base,  we  rode  on  until  after 
dark,  but  were  unable  to  reach  it,  and  halted  among  the  sage  bushes 
on  the  open  plain,  without  either  grass  or  water.  The  two  India- 
rubber  bags  had  been  filled  with  water  in  the  morning,  which  af- 
forded sufficient  for  the  camp;  and  rain  in  the  night  formed  pools, 

595 


which  reHeved  the  thirst  of  the  animals.  Where  we  encamped  on  the 
bleak  sandy  plain,  the  Indians  had  made  huts  or  circular  enclosures, 
about  four  feet  high  and  twelve  feet  broad,  of  artemisia  bushes. 
Whether  these  had  been  forts  or  houses,  or  what  they  had  been  do- 
ing in  such  a  desert  place,  we  could  not  ascertain. 

December  23. — The  weather  is  mild;  the  thermometer  at  daylight 
38° ;  the  wind  having  been  from  the  southward  for  several  days.  The 
country  has  a  very  forbidding  appearance,  presenting  to  the  eye 
nothing  but  sage  and  barren  ridges.  We  rode  up  towards  the  moun- 
tain, along  the  foot  of  which  we  found  a  lake  [Anderson],  which 
we  could  not  approach  on  account  of  the  mud ;  and,  passing  around 
its  southern  end,  ascended  the  slope  at  the  foot  of  the  ridge,  where  in 
some  hollows  we  had  discovered  bushes  and  small  trees — in  such  sit- 
uations, a  sure  sign  of  water.  We  found  here  several  springs,  and  the 
hill  side  was  well  sprinkled  with  a  species  of  festuca — a  better  grass 
than  we  had  found  for  many  days.  Our  elevated  position  gave  us  a 
good  view  over  the  country,  but  we  discovered  nothing  very  en- 
couraging. Southward,  about  ten  miles  distant,  was  another  small 
lake,  towards  which  a  broad  trail  led  along  the  ridge;  and  this  ap- 
pearing to  afford  the  most  practicable  route,  I  determined  to  con- 
tinue our  journey  in  that  direction. 

December  24. — We  found  the  water  of  the  lake  tolerably  pure, 
and  encamped  at  the  farther  end.  There  were  some  good  grass  and 
canes  along  the  shore,  and  the  vegetation  at  this  place  consisted 
principally  of  chenopodiaceous  shrubs. 

December  25. — We  were  roused,  on  Christmas  morning,  by  a  dis- 
charge from  the  small  arms  and  howitzer,  with  which  our  people 
saluted  the  day;  and  the  name  of  which  we  bestowed  on  the  lake.^" 
It  was  the  first  time,  perhaps,  in  this  remote  and  desolate  region,  in 
which  it  had  been  so  commemorated.  Always,  on  days  of  religious 
or  national  commemoration,  our  voyageurs  expect  some  unusual 
allowance;  and,  having  nothing  else,  I  gave  them  each  a  little 
brandy,  (which  was  carefully  guarded,  as  one  of  the  most  useful 
articles  a  traveller  can  carry,)  with  some  coflfee  and  sugar,  which 
here,  where  every  eatable  was  a  luxury,  was  sufficient  to  make  them 


96.  The  lake  which  JCF  named  Christmas  Lake  was  one  of  those  in  the 
Warner  Lakes  group,  perhaps  either  Hart  Lake  (as  mc  Arthur  beheves)  or 
Crump  Lake.  From  personal  observation  we  are  inclined  to  choose  the  latter 
one,  south  of  Hart,  as  the  lake  which  JCF  visited.  In  this  view  we  are  sup- 
ported by  staff  members  in  the  supervisor's  office,  Fremont  National  Forest. 

596 


a  feast.  The  day  was  sunny  and  warm;  and,  resuming  our  journey, 
we  crossed  some  slight  dividing  grounds  into  a  similar  basin,  walled 
in  on  the  right  by  a  lofty  mountain  ridge.  The  plainly  beaten  trail 
still  continued,  and  occasionally  we  passed  camping  grounds  of  the 
Indians,  which  indicated  to  me  that  we  were  on  one  of  the  great 
thoroughfares  of  the  country.  In  the  afternoon  I  attempted  to  travel 
in  a  more  eastern  direction;  but,  after  a  few  laborious  miles,  was 
beaten  back  into  the  basin  by  an  impassable  country.  There  were 
fresh  Indian  tracks  about  the  valley,  and  last  night  a  horse  was 
stolen.  We  encamped  on  the  valley  bottom,  where  there  was  some 
cream-like  water  in  ponds,  colored  by  a  clay  soil  and  frozen  over. 
Chenopodiaceous  shrubs  constituted  the  growth,  and  made  again 
our  fire  wood.  The  animals  were  driven  to  the  hill,  where  there  was 
tolerably  good  grass. 

December  26. — Our  general  course  was  again  south.  The  country 
consists  of  larger  or  smaller  basins,  into  which  the  mountain  waters 
run  down,  forming  small  lakes;  they  present  a  perfect  level,  from 
which  the  mountains  rise  immediately  and  abruptly.  Between  the 
successive  basins,  the  dividing  grounds  are  usually  very  slight;  and 
it  is  probable  that,  in  the  seasons  of  high  water,  many  of  these  basins 
are  in  communication.  At  such  times  there  is  evidently  an  abun- 
dance of  water,  though  now  we  find  scarcely  more  than  the  dry 
beds.  On  either  side,  the  mountains,  though  not  very  high,  appear 
to  be  rocky  and  sterile.  The  basin  in  which  we  were  travelling  de- 
clined towards  the  southwest  corner,  where  the  mountains  indicated 
a  narrow  outlet;  and,  turning  round  a  rocky  point  or  cape,  we  con- 
tinued up  a  lateral  branch  valley,  in  which  we  encamped  at  night  on 
a  rapid,  pretty  near  the  ridge,  on  the  right  side  of  the  valley.  It  was 
bordered  with  grassy  bottoms  and  clumps  of  willows,  the  water 
partially  frozen.  This  stream  belongs  to  the  basin  we  had  left.  By  a 
partial  observation  to-night,  our  camp  was  found  to  be  directly  on 
the  42d  parallel  [Oregon-Nevada  line,  ten  miles  east  of  the  Cali- 
fornia line].  To-night  a  horse  belonging  to  Carson,  one  of  the  best 
we  had  in  the  camp,  was  stolen  by  the  Indians. 

December  27. — We  continued  up  the  valley  of  the  stream,  the 
principal  branch  of  which  here  issues  from  a  bed  of  high  mountains. 
We  turned  up  a  branch  to  the  left,  and  fell  into  an  Indian  trail, 
which  conducted  us  by  a  good  road  over  open  bottoms  along  the 
creek,  where  the  snow  was  five  or  six  inches  deep.  Gradually  ascend- 
ing, the  trail  led  through  a  good  broad  pass  in  the  mountain,  where 

597 


we  found  the  snow  about  one  foot  deep.  There  were  some  remark- 
ably large  cedars  in  the  pass,  which  were  covered  with  an  unusual 
quantity  of  frost,  which  we  supposed  might  possibly  indicate  the 
neighborhood  of  water;  and  as,  in  the  arbitrary  position  of  Mary's 
lake,  we  were  already  beginning  to  look  for  it,  this  circumstance 
contributed  to  our  hope  of  finding  it  near.  Descending  from  the 
mountain,  we  reached  another  basin,  on  the  flat  lake  bed  [Dry  or 
Alkali  Lake]  of  which  we  found  no  water,  and  encamped  among 
the  sage  on  the  bordering  plain,  where  the  snow  was  still  about  one 
foot  deep.  Among  this  the  grass  was  remarkably  green,  and  to-night 
the  animals  fared  tolerably  well.^^ 

December  28. — The  snow  being  deep,  I  had  determined,  if  any 
more  horses  were  stolen,  to  follow  the  tracks  of  the  Indians  into  the 
mountains,  and  put  a  temporary  check  to  their  sly  operations;  but 
it  did  not  occur  again. 

Our  road  this  morning  lay  down  a  level  valley,  bordered  by  steep 
mountainous  ridges,  rising  very  abruptly  from  the  plain.  Artemisia 
was  the  principal  plant,  mingled  with  Fremontia  and  the  chenopo- 
diaceous  shrubs.  The  artemisia  was  here  extremely  large,  being 
sometimes  a  foot  in  diameter  and  eight  feet  high.  Riding  quietly 
along  over  the  snow,  we  came  suddenly  upon  smokes  rising  among 
these  bushes;  and,  galloping  up,  we  found  two  huts,  open  at  the  top, 
and  loosely  built  of  sage,  which  appeared  to  have  been  deserted  at 
the  instant;  and,  looking  hastily  around,  we  saw  several  Indians  on 
the  crest  of  the  ridge  near  by,  and  several  others  scrambling  up  the 
side.  We  had  come  upon  them  so  suddenly,  that  they  had  been  well 
nigh  surprised  in  their  lodges.  A  sage  fire  was  burning  in  the 
middle;  a  few  baskets  made  of  straw  were  lying  about,  with  one  or 
two  rabbit  skins;  and  there  was  a  little  grass  scattered  about,  on  which 
they  had  been  lying.  "Tabibo — bo!"  they  shouted  from  the  hills — a 
word  which,  in  the  Snake  language,  signifies  white — and  remained 
looking  at  us  from  behind  the  rocks.  Carson  and  Godey  rode 
towards  the  hill,  but  the  men  ran  ofT  like  deer.  They  had  been  so 
much  pressed,  that  a  woman  with  two  children  had  dropped  behind 
a  sage  bush  near  the  lodge,  and  when  Carson  accidentally  stumbled 


97.  JCF  had  crossed  into  what  was  then  Mexican  territory,  now  northern 
Washoe  County,  Nev.,  and  had  entered  the  basin  of  the  Mud  Lakes.  For  the 
next  several  days  he  would  be  making  his  way  toward  Pyramid  Lake.  The 
bracketed  place-names  supplied  in  the  text  are  based  mainly  on  the  work  of 

MACK. 

598 


upon  her,  she  immediately  began  screaming  in  the  extremity  of  fear, 
and  shut  her  eyes  fast,  to  avoid  seeing  him.  She  was  brought  back 
to  the  lodge,  and  we  endeavored  in  vain  to  open  a  communication 
with  the  men.  By  dint  of  presents,  and  friendly  demonstrations,  she 
was  brought  to  calmness;  and  we  found  that  they  belonged  to  the 
Snake  nation,  speaking  the  language  of  that  people.  Eight  or  ten 
appeared  to  live  together,  under  the  same  little  shelter;  and  they 
seemed  to  have  no  other  subsistence  than  the  roots  or  seeds  they 
might  have  stored  up,  and  the  hares  which  live  in  the  sage,  and 
which  they  are  enabled  to  track  through  the  snow,  and  are  very 
skilful  in  killing.  Their  skins  afford  them  a  little  scanty  covering. 
Herding  together  among  bushes,  and  crouching  almost  naked  over 
a  little  sage  fire,  using  their  instinct  only  to  procure  food,  these  may 
be  considered,  among  human  beings,  the  nearest  approach  to  the 
mere  animal  creation.  We  have  reason  to  believe  that  these  had 
never  before  seen  the  face  of  a  white  man. 

The  day  had  been  pleasant,  but  about  two  o'clock  it  began  to 
blow;  and  crossing  a  slight  dividing  ground  we  encamped  on  the 
sheltered  side  of  a  hill,  where  there  was  good  bunch  grass,  having 
made  a  day's  journey  of  24  miles.  The  night  closed  in,  threatening 
snow;  but  the  large  sage  bushes  made  bright  fires. 

December  29. — The  morning  mild,  and  at  4  o'clock  it  commenced 
snowing.  We  took  our  way  across  a  plain,  thickly  covered  with  snow, 
towards  a  range  of  hills  in  the  southeast.  The  sky  soon  became  so 
dark  with  snow  that  little  could  be  seen  of  the  surrounding  country; 
and  we  reached  the  summit  of  the  hills  in  a  heavy  snow  storm.  On 
the  side  we  had  approached,  this  had  appeared  to  be  only  a  ridge  of 
low  hills;  and  we  were  surprised  to  find  ourselves  on  the  summit  of 
a  bed  of  broken  mountains,  which,  as  far  as  the  weather  would  per- 
mit us  to  see,  declined  rapidly  to  some  low  country  ahead,  presenting 
a  dreary  and  savage  character;  and  for  a  moment  I  looked  around 
in  doubt  on  the  wild  and  inhospitable  prospect,  scarcely  knowing 
what  road  to  take  which  might  conduct  us  to  some  place  of  shelter 
for  the  night.  Noticing  among  the  hills  the  head  of  a  grassy  hollow, 
I  determined  to  follow  it,  in  the  hope  that  it  would  conduct  us  to  a 
stream.  We  followed  a  winding  descent  for  several  miles,  the  hollow 
gradually  broadening  into  little  meadows,  and  becoming  the  bed  of 
a  stream  as  we  advanced ;  and  towards  night  we  were  agreeably  sur- 
prised by  the  appearance  of  a  willow  grove,  where  we  found  a  shel- 
tered camp,  with  water  and  excellent  and  abundant  grass.  The  grass, 

599 


which  was  covered  by  the  snow  on  the  bottom,  was  long  and  green, 
and  the  face  of  the  mountain  had  a  more  favorable  character  in  its 
vegetation,  being  smoother,  and  covered  with  good  bunch  grass. 
The  snow  was  deep,  and  the  night  very  cold.  A  broad  trail  had  en- 
tered the  valley  from  the  right,  and  a  short  distance  below  the  camp 
[at  High  Rock  Creek]  were  the  tracks  where  a  considerable  party  of 
Indians  had  passed  on  horseback,  who  had  turned  out  to  the  left, 
apparently  with  the  view  of  crossing  the  mountains  to  the  eastward. 

December  30. — After  following  the  stream  for  a  few  hours  in  a 
southeasterly  direction,  it  entered  a  cailon  where  we  could  not  fol- 
low; but  determined  not  to  leave  the  stream,  we  searched  a  passage 
below,  where  we  could  regain  it,  and  entered  a  regular  narrow  val- 
ley. The  water  had  now  more  the  appearance  of  a  flowing  creek; 
several  times  we  passed  groves  of  willows,  and  we  began  to  feel  our- 
selves out  of  all  difficulty.  From  our  position,  it  was  reasonable  to 
conclude  that  this  stream  would  find  its  outlet  in  Mary's  lake,  and 
conduct  us  into  a  better  country.  We  had  descended  rapidly,  and 
here  we  found  very  little  snow.  On  both  sides,  the  mountains 
showed  often  stupendous  and  curious-looking  rocks,  which  at  sev- 
eral places  so  narrowed  the  valley,  that  scarcely  a  pass  was  left  for 
the  camp.  It  was  a  singular  place  to  travel  through — shut  up  in  the 
earth,  a  sort  of  chasm,  the  little  strip  of  grass  under  our  feet,  the 
rough  walls  of  bare  rock  on  either  hand,  and  the  narrow  strip  of  sky 
above.  The  grass  to-night  was  abundant,  and  we  encamped  in  high 
spirits. 

December  31. — After  an  hour's  ride  this  morning,  our  hopes  were 
once  more  destroyed.  The  valley  opened  out,  and  before  us  again  lay 
one  of  the  dry  basins  [Soldier  Meadows].  After  some  search,  we  dis- 
covered a  high-water  outlet  [Soldier  Creek],  which  brought  us  in  a 
few  miles,  and  by  a  descent  of  several  hundred  feet,  into  another 
long  broad  basin,  in  which  we  found  the  bed  of  a  stream,  and  ob- 
tained sufficient  water  by  cutting  the  ice.  The  grass  on  the  bottoms 
was  salt  and  unpalatable. 

Here  we  concluded  the  year  1843,  and  our  new  year's  eve  was 
rather  a  gloomy  one.  The  result  of  our  journey  began  to  be  very  un- 
certain; the  country  was  singularly  unfavorable  to  travel;  the  grasses 
being  frequently  of  a  very  unwholesome  character,  and  the  hoofs  of 
our  animals  were  so  worn  and  cut  by  the  rocks,  that  many  of  them 
were  lame,  and  could  scarcely  be  got  along  [at  the  western  edge  of 
Black  Rock  Desert]. 

6oo 


New  Year's  day,  1844.— We  continued  down  the  valley,  between 
a  dry-looking  black  ridge  on  the  left  and  a  more  snowy  and  high 
one  on  the  right.  Our  road  was  bad  along  the  bottom,  being  broken 
by  gullies  and  impeded  by  sage,  and  sandy  on  the  hills,  where  there 
is  not  a  blade  of  grass,  nor  does  any  appear  on  the  mountains.  The 
soil  in  many  places  consists  of  a  fine  powdery  sand,  covered  with  a 
saline  efflorescence;  and  the  general  character  of  the  country  is 
desert.  During  the  day  we  directed  our  course  towards  a  black  cape, 
at  the  foot  of  which  a  column  of  smoke  indicated  hot  springs. 

January  2. — We  were  on  the  road  early,  the  face  of  the  country 
hidden  by  falling  snow.  We  travelled  along  the  bed  of  the  stream,  in 
some  places  dry,  in  others  covered  with  ice;  the  travelling  being  very 
bad,  through  deep  fine  sand,  rendered  tenacious  by  a  mixture  of  clay. 
The  weather  cleared  up  a  little  at  noon,  and  we  reached  the  hot 
springs  of  which  we  had  seen  the  vapor  the  day  before.  There  was  a 
large  field  of  the  usual  salt  grass  here,  peculiar  to  such  places.  The 
country  otherwise  is  a  perfect  barren,  without  a  blade  of  grass,  the 
only  plants  being  some  dwarf  Fremontias.  We  passed  the  rocky 
cape,  a  jagged  broken  point,  bare  and  torn.  The  rocks  are  volcanic, 
and  the  hills  here  have  a  burnt  appearance — cinders  and  coals  occa- 
sionally appearing  as  at  a  blacksmith's  forge.  We  crossed  the  large 
dry  bed  of  a  muddy  lake  in  a  southeasterly  direction,  and  encamped 
at  night  without  water  and  without  grass,  among  sage  bushes 
covered  with  snow.  The  heavy  road  made  several  mules  give  out 
to-day;  and  a  horse,  which  had  made  the  journey  from  the  States 
successfully  thus  far,  was  left  on  the  trail. 

January  3. — A  fog,  so  dense  that  we  could  not  see  a  hundred  yards, 
covered  the  country,  and  the  men  that  were  sent  out  after  the  horses 
were  bewildered  and  lost;  and  we  were  consequently  detained  at 
camp  until  late  in  the  day.  Our  situation  had  now  become  a  serious 
one.  We  had  reached  and  run  over  the  position  where,  according  to 
the  best  maps  in  my  possession,  we  should  have  found  Mary's  lake, 
or  river.  We  were  evidently  on  the  verge  of  the  desert  which  had 
been  reported  to  us;  and  the  appearance  of  the  country  was  so  for- 
bidding, that  I  was  afraid  to  enter  it,  and  determined  to  bear  away 
to  the  southward,  keeping  close  along  the  mountains,  in  the  full 
expectation  of  reaching  the  Buenaventura  river.  This  morning  I 
put  every  man  in  the  camp  on  foot — myself,  of  course,  among  the 
rest — and  in  this  manner  lightened  by  distribution  the  loads  of 
the  animals.  We  travelled  seven  or  eight  miles  along  the  ridge  bor- 

6oi 


dering  the  valley,  and  encamped  where  there  were  a  few  bunches  of 
grass  on  the  bed  of  a  hill  torrent,  without  water.  There  were  some 
large  artemisias;  but  the  principal  plants  are  chenopodiaceous  shrubs. 
The  rock  composing  the  mountains  is  here  changed  suddenly  into 
white  granite  [Granite  Range].  The  fog  showed  the  tops  of  the  hills 
at  sunset,  and  stars  enough  for  observations  in  the  early  evening,  and 
then  closed  over  us  as  before.  Latitude  by  observation,  40°  48'  \5'\ 

January  4. — The  fog  to-day  was  still  more  dense,  and  the  people 
again  were  bewildered.  We  travelled  a  few  miles  around  the  western 
point  of  the  ridge,  and  encamped  where  there  were  a  few  tufts  of 
grass,  but  no  water.  Our  animals  now  were  in  a  very  alarming  state, 
and  there  was  increased  anxiety  in  the  camp  [in  Granite  Creek 
Desert]. 

January  5. — Same  dense  fog  continued,  and  one  of  the  mules  died 
in  camp  this  morning.  I  have  had  occasion  to  remark,  on  such  oc- 
casions as  these,  that  animals  which  are  about  to  die  leave  the  band, 
and  coming  into  the  camp,  lie  down  about  the  fires.  We  moved  to  a 
place  where  there  was  a  little  better  grass,  about  two  miles  distant. 
Taplin,  one  of  our  best  men,  who  had  gone  out  on  a  scouting  ex- 
cursion, ascended  a  mountain  near  by,  and  to  his  great  surprise 
emerged  into  a  region  of  bright  sunshine,  in  which  the  upper  parts 
of  the  mountain  were  glowing,  while  below  all  was  obscured  in  the 
darkest  fog. 

January  6. — The  fog  continued  the  same,  and,  with  Mr.  Preuss 
and  Carson,  I  ascended  the  mountain,  to  sketch  the  leading  features 
of  the  country,  as  some  indication  of  our  future  route,  while  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick  explored  the  country  below.  In  a  very  short  distance  we 
had  ascended  above  the  mist,  but  the  view  obtained  was  not  very 
gratifying.  The  fog  had  partially  cleared  off  from  below  when  we 
reached  the  summit;  and  in  the  southwest  corner  of  a  basin  com- 
municating with  that  in  which  we  had  encamped,  we  saw  a  lofty 
column  of  smoke,  16  miles  distant,  indicating  the  presence  of  hot 
springs.  There,  also,  appeared  to  be  the  outlet  of  those  draining 
channels  of  the  country;  and,  as  such  places  afforded  always  more  or 
less  grass,  I  determined  to  steer  in  that  direction.  The  ridge  we  had 
ascended  appeared  to  be  composed  of  fragments  of  white  granite. 
We  saw  here  traces  of  sheep  and  antelope. 

Entering  the  neighboring  valley,  and  crossing  the  bed  of  another 
lake,  after  a  hard  day's  travel  over  ground  of  yielding  mud  and  sand, 
we  reached  the  springs,  where  we  found  an  abundance  of  grass, 

602 


which,  though  only  tolerably  good,  made  this  place,  with  reference 
to  the  past,  a  refreshing  and  agreeable  spot. 

This  is  the  most  extraordinary  locality  of  hot  springs  we  had  met 
during  the  journey.  The  basin  of  the  largest  one  has  a  circumference 
of  several  hundred  feet;  but  there  is  at  one  extremity  a  circular  space 
of  about  fifteen  feet  in  diameter,  entirely  occupied  by  the  boiling 
water.  It  boils  up  at  irregular  intervals,  and  with  much  noise.  The 
water  is  clear,  and  the  spring  deep;  a  pole  about  sixteen  feet  long 
was  easily  immersed  in  the  centre,  but  we  had  no  means  of  forming 
a  good  idea  of  the  depth.  It  was  surrounded  on  the  margin  with  a 
border  of  green  grass,  and  near  the  shore  the  temperature  of  the 
water  was  206°.  We  had  no  means  of  ascertaining  that  of  the  center, 
where  the  heat  was  greatest;  but,  by  dispersing  the  water  with  a  pole, 
the  temperature  at  the  margin  was  increased  to  208°,  and  in  the 
centre  it  was  doubtless  higher.  By  driving  the  pole  towards  the 
bottom,  the  water  was  made  to  boil  up  with  increased  force  and 
noise.  There  are  several  other  interesting  places,  where  water  and 
smoke  or  gas  escape,  but  they  would  require  a  long  description.  The 
water  is  impregnated  with  common  salt,  but  not  so  much  as  to  ren- 
der it  unfit  for  general  cooking;  and  a  mixture  of  snow  made  it 
pleasant  to  drink  [the  hot  springs  at  Gerlach,  Nev.] 

In  the  immediate  neighborhood,  the  valley  bottom  is  covered  al- 
most exclusively  with  chenopodiaceous  shrubs,  of  greater  luxuriance, 
and  larger  growth,  than  we  have  seen  them  in  any  preceding  part  of 
the  journey. 

I  obtained  this  evening  some  astronomical  observations. 

Our  situation  now  required  caution.  Including  those  which  gave 
out  from  the  injured  condition  of  their  feet,  and  those  stolen  by  In- 
dians, we  had  lost,  since  leaving  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  fifteen 
animals;  and  of  these,  nine  had  been  left  in  the  last  few  days.  I 
therefore  determined,  until  we  reach  a  country  of  water  and  vegeta- 
tion, to  feel  our  way  ahead,  by  having  the  line  of  route  explored 
some  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  in  advance,  and  only  to  leave  a  present 
encampment  when  the  succeeding  one  was  known. 

Taking  with  me  Godey  and  Carson,  I  made  to-day  a  thorough 
exploration  of  the  neighboring  valleys,  and  found  in  a  ravine  in  the 
bordering  mountains  a  good  camping  place,  where  was  water  in 
springs,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  grass  for  a  night.  Qvershading 
the  springs  were  some  trees  of  the  sweet  cottonwood,  which,  after  a 
long  interval  of  absence,  we  saw  again  with  pleasure,  regarding  them 

603 


as  harbingers  of  a  better  country.  To  us,  they  were  eloquent  of  green 
prairies  and  buffalo.  We  found  here  a  broad  and  plainly  marked 
trail,  on  which  there  were  tracks  of  horses,  and  we  appeared  to  have 
regained  one  of  the  thoroughfares  which  pass  by  the  watering  places 
of  the  country.  On  the  western  mountains  [Lake  Mountains]  of  the 
valley,  with  which  this  of  the  boiling  spring  communicates,  we  re- 
marked scattered  cedars — probably  an  indication  that  we  were  on 
the  borders  of  the  timbered  region  extending  to  the  Pacific.  We 
reached  the  camp  at  sunset  after  a  day's  ride  of  about  forty  miles. 
The  horses  we  rode  were  in  good  order,  being  of  some  that  were 
kept  for  emergencies,  and  rarely  used. 

Mr.  Preuss  had  ascended  one  of  the  mountains,  and  occupied  the 
day  in  sketching  the  country;  and  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  had  found,  a  few 
miles  distant,  a  hollow  of  excellent  grass  and  pure  water,  to  which 
the  animals  were  driven,  as  I  remained  another  day  to  give  them  an 
opportunity  to  recruit  their  strength.  Indians  appear  to  be  every 
where  prowling  about  like  wild  animals,  and  there  is  a  fresh  trail 
across  the  snow  in  the  valley  near. 

Latitude  of  the  boiling  springs,  40°  39'  46". 

On  the  9th  we  crossed  over  to  the  cottonwood  camp.  Among  the 
shrubs  on  the  hills  were  a  few  bushes  of  ephedra  occidentalis ,  which 
afterwards  occurred  frequently  along  our  road,  and,  as  usual,  the 
lowlands  were  occupied  with  artemisia.  While  the  party  proceeded  to 
this  place,  Carson  and  myself  reconnoitred  the  road  in  advance,  and 
found  another  good  encampment  for  the  following  day. 

January  10. — We  continued  our  reconnoisance  ahead,  pursuing  a 
south  direction  in  the  basin  along  the  ridge;  the  camp  following 
slowly  after.  On  a  large  trail  there  is  never  any  doubt  of  finding  suit- 
able places  for  encampments.  We  reached  the  end  of  the  basin, 
where  we  found,  in  a  hollow  of  the  mountain  which  enclosed  it,  an 
abundance  of  good  bunch  grass.  Leaving  a  signal  for  the  party  to  en- 
camp, we  continued  our  way  up  the  hollow,  intending  to  see  what 
lay  beyond  the  mountain.  The  hollow  was  several  miles  long,  form- 
ing a  good  pass  [Fremont  Pass],  the  snow  deepening  to  about  a  foot 
as  we  neared  the  summit.  Beyond,  a  defile  between  the  mountains 
descended  rapidly  about  two  thousand  feet;  and,  filling  up  all  the 
lower  space,  was  a  sheet  of  green  water,  some  twenty  miles  broad. 
It  broke  upon  our  eyes  like  the  ocean.  The  neighboring  peaks  rose 
high  above  us,  and  we  ascended  one  of  them  to  obtain  a  better  view. 
The  waves  were  curling  in  the  breeze,  and  their  dark-green  color 

604 


showed  it  to  be  a  body  of  deep  water.  For  a  long  time  we  sat  enjoy- 
ing the  view,  for  we  had  become  fatigued  with  mountains,  and  the 
free  expanse  of  moving  waves  was  very  grateful.  It  was  set  like  a 
gem  in  the  mountains,  which,  from  our  position,  seemed  to  enclose 
it  almost  entirely.  At  the  western  end  it  communicated  with  the 
line  of  basins  we  had  left  a  few  days  since;  and  on  the  opposite  side 
it  swept  a  ridge  of  snowy  mountains,  the  foot  of  the  great  Sierra.  Its 
position  at  first  inclined  us  to  believe  it  Mary's  lake,  but  the  rugged 
mountains  were  so  entirely  discordant  with  descriptions  of  its  low 
rushy  shores  and  open  country,  that  we  concluded  it  some  unknown 
body  of  water;  which  it  afterwards  proved  to  be.^^ 

On  our  road  down,  the  next  day,  we  saw  herds  of  mountain  sheep, 
and  encamped  on  a  little  stream  at  the  mouth  of  the  defile,  about  a 
mile  from  the  margin  of  the  water,  to  which  we  hurried  down  im- 
mediately. The  water  is  so  slightly  salt,  that,  at  first,  we  thought  it 
fresh,  and  would  be  pleasant  to  drink  when  no  other  could  be  had. 
The  shore  was  rocky — a  handsome  beach,  which  reminded  us  of  the 
sea.  On  some  large  granite  boulders  that  were  scattered  about  the 
shore,  I  remarked  a  coating  of  a  calcareous  substance,  in  some  places 
a  few  inches  and  in  others  a  foot  in  thickness.  Near  our  camp,  the 
hills,  which  were  of  primitive  rock,  were  also  covered  with  this  sub- 
stance, which  was  in  too  great  quantity  on  the  mountains  along  the 
shore  of  the  lake  to  have  been  deposited  by  water,  and  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  having  been  spread  over  the  rocks  in  mass.* 

*  The  label  attached  to  a  specimen  of  this  rock  was  lost;  but  I  append  an 
analysis  of  that  which,  from  memory,  I  judge  to  be  the  specimen. 


Carbonate  of  lime  .... 

77.31 

Carbonate  of  magnesia  . 

5.25 

Oxide  of  iron 

1.60 

Alumina 

1.05 

Silica 

8.55 

Organic   matter,   water,   and   loss   . 

6.24 

100.00 

98.  Pyramid  Lake,  in  Washoe  County,  northwestern  Nevada,  inside  the 
boundaries  of  the  Pyramid  Lake  Indian  Reservation.  The  lake,  about  twenty- 
five  miles  long  and  from  four  to  eleven  miles  wide,  is  fed  by  the  Truckee 
River  and  has  no  outlet.  Although  the  water  contains  a  high  concentration 
of  minerals,  it  does  support  fish  life.  The  shores  arc  inhabited  by  the  Northern 
Paiute  Indians  (but  JCF  thought  he  recognized  a  second  tribe  also).  For  a 
map  tracing  the  probable  route  of  the  expedition  around  the  lake,  see  the 
frontispiece  in  wheeler. 


605 


(U 

h-1 


as 

>^ 

fin 


606 


Where  we  had  haked,  appeared  to  be  a  favorite  camping  place  for 
Indians. 

January  13. — We  followed  again  a  broad  Indian  trail  along  the 
shore  of  the  lake  to  the  southward.  For  a  short  space  we  had  room 
enough  in  the  bottom ;  but,  after  travelling  a  short  distance,  the  water 
swept  the  foot  of  precipitous  mountains,  the  peaks  of  which  are 
about  3,000  feet  above  the  lake.  The  trail  wound  along  the  base  of 
these  precipices,  against  which  the  water  dashed  below,  by  a  way 
nearly  impracticable  for  the  howitzer.  During  a  greater  part  of  the 
morning  the  lake  was  nearly  hid  by  a  snow  storm,  and  the  waves 
broken  on  the  narrow  beach  in  a  long  line  of  foaming  surf,  five  or 
six  feet  high.  The  day  was  unpleasantly  cold,  the  wind  driving  the 
snow  sharp  against  our  faces;  and,  having  advanced  only  about  12 
miles,  we  encamped  in  a  bottom  formed  by  a  ravine,  covered  with 
good  grass,  which  was  fresh  and  green. 

We  did  not  get  the  howitzer  into  camp,  but  were  obliged  to  leave 
it  on  the  rocks  until  morning.  We  saw  several  flocks  of  sheep,  but 
did  not  succeed  in  kiUing  any.  Ducks  were  riding  on  the  waves,  and 
several  large  fish  were  seen.  The  mountain  sides  were  crusted  with 
the  calcareous  cement  previously  mentioned.  There  were  cheno- 
podiaceous  and  other  shrubs  along  the  beach;  and,  at  the  foot  of  the 
rocks,  an  abundance  of  ephedra  occidental'n ,  whose  dark-green  color 
makes  them  evergreens  among  the  shrubby  growth  of  the  lake. 
Towards  evening  the  snow  began  to  fall  heavily,  and  the  country 
had  a  wintry  appearance. 

The  next  morning  the  snow  was  rapidly  melting  under  a  warm 
sun.  Part  of  the  morning  was  occupied  in  bringing  up  the  gun;  and, 
making  only  nine  miles,  we  encamped  on  the  shore,  opposite  a  very 
remarkable  rock  in  the  lake,  which  had  attracted  our  attention  for 
many  miles.  It  rose,  according  to  our  estimate,  600  feet  above  the 
water;  and,  from  the  point  we  viewed  it,  presented  a  pretty  exact 
outline  of  the  great  pyramid  of  Cheops.  The  accompanying  drawing 
presents  it  as  we  saw  it.  Like  other  rocks  along  the  shore,  it  seemed 
to  be  incrusted  with  calcareous  cement.  This  striking  feature  sug- 
gested a  name  for  the  lake;  and  I  called  it  Pyramid  lake;  and  though 
it  may  be  deemed  by  some  a  fanciful  resemblance,  I  can  undertake 
to  say  that  the  future  traveller  will  find  a  much  more  striking  resem- 
blance between  this  rock  and  the  pyramids  of  Egypt,  than  there  is 
between  them  and  the  object  from  which  they  take  their  name. 

The  elevation  of  this  lake  above  the  sea  is  4,890  feet,  being  nearly 

607 


700  feet  higher  than  the  Great  Salt  lake,  from  which  it  lies  nearly 
west,  and  distant  about  eight  degrees  of  longitude.^^  The  position 
and  elevation  of  this  lake  make  it  an  object  of  geographical  interest. 
It  is  the  nearest  lake  to  the  western  rim,  as  the  Great  Salt  lake  is  to 
the  eastern  rim,  of  the  Great  Basin  which  lies  between  the  base  of 
the  Rocky  mountains  and  the  Sierra  Nevada;  and  the  extent  and 
character  of  which,  its  whole  circumference  and  contents,  it  is  so 
desirable  to  know. 

The  last  of  the  cattle  which  had  been  driven  from  the  Dalles  was 
killed  here  for  food,  and  was  still  in  good  condition. 

January  15. — A  few  poor-looking  Indians  made  their  appearance 
this  morning,  and  we  succeeded  in  getting  one  into  the  camp.  He 
was  naked,  with  the  exception  of  a  tunic  of  hare  skins.  He  told  us 
that  there  was  a  river  at  the  end  of  the  lake,  but  that  he  lived  in  the 
rocks  near  by.  From  the  few  words  our  people  could  understand,  he 
spoke  a  dialect  of  the  Snake  language;  but  we  were  not  able  to  un- 
derstand enough  to  know  whether  the  river  ran  in  or  out,  or  what 
was  its  course;  consequently,  there  still  remained  a  chance  that  this 
might  be  Mary's  lake. 

Groves  of  large  cottonwood,  which  we  could  see  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  indicated  that  it  was  a  stream  of  considerable  size;  and,  at 
all  events,  we  had  the  pleasure  to  know  that  now  we  were  in  a  coun- 
try where  human  beings  could  live.  Accompanied  by  the  Indian,  we 
resumed  our  road,  passing  on  the  way  several  caves  in  the  rock 
where  there  were  baskets  and  seeds;  but  the  people  had  disappeared. 
We  saw  also  horse  tracks  along  the  shore. 

Early  in  the  afternoon,  when  we  were  approaching  the  groves  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  three  or  four  Indians  met  us  on  the  trail.  We 
had  an  explanatory  conversation  in  signs,  and  then  moved  on  to- 
gether towards  the  village,  which  the  chief  said  was  encamped  on  the 
bottom. 

Reaching  the  groves,  we  found  the  inlet  of  a  large  fresh-water 
stream,  and  all  at  once  were  satisfied  that  it  was  neither  Mary's  river 
nor  the  waters  of  the  Sacramento,  but  that  we  had  discovered  a  large 
interior  lake,  which  the  Indians  informed  us  had  no  outlet.  It  is 
about  35  miles  long;  and,  by  the  mark  of  the  water  line  along  the 


99.  The  elevation  which  JCF  determined  by  the  boiling  point  of  water  is 
much  too  high.  Although  the  elevation  has  varied,  and  is  listed  at  3,800  feet 
by  the  U.S.  Geological  Survey,  it  probably  has  never  been  higher  than  3,950 
feet  for  thousands  of  years  (wheeler,  38). 


6o8 


shores,  the  spring  level  is  about  12  feet  above  its  present  waters.  The 
chief  commenced  speaking  in  a  loud  voice  as  we  approached;  and 
parties  of  Indians  armed  with  bows  and  arrows  issued  from  the 
thickets.  We  selected  a  strong  place  for  our  encampment — a  grassy 
bottom,  nearly  enclosed  by  the  river,  and  furnished  with  abundant 
fire  wood.  The  village,  a  collection  of  straw  huts,  was  a  few  hundred 
yards  higher  up.  An  Indian  brought  in  a  large  fish  to  trade,  which 
we  had  the  inexpressible  satisfaction  to  find  was  a  salmon  trout;  we 
gathered  round  him  eagerly.  The  Indians  were  amused  with  our 
delight,  and  immediately  brought  in  numbers;  so  that  the  camp  was 
soon  stocked.  Their  flavor  was  excellent — superior,  in  fact,  to  that  of 
any  fish  I  have  ever  known.  They  were  of  extraordinary  size — about 
as  large  as  the  Columbia  river  salmon — generally  from  two  to  four 
feet  in  length.^*'^  From  the  information  of  Mr.  Walker,  who  passed 
among  some  lakes  lying  more  to  the  eastward,  this  fish  is  common 
to  the  streams  of  the  inland  lakes.  He  subsequently  informed  me  that 
he  had  obtained  them  weighing  six  pounds  when  cleaned  and  the 
head  taken  oflF;  which  corresponds  very  well  with  the  size  of  those 
obtained  at  this  place.  They  doubtless  formed  the  subsistence  of  these 
people,  who  hold  the  fishery  in  exclusive  possession. 

I  remarked  that  one  of  them  gave  a  fish  to  the  Indian  we  had  first 
seen,  which  he  carried  off  to  his  family.  To  them  it  was  probably  a 
feast;  being  of  the  Digger  tribe,  and  having  no  share  in  the  fishery, 
living  generally  on  seeds  and  roots.  Although  this  was  a  time  of  the 
year  when  the  fish  have  not  yet  become  fat,  they  were  excellent,  and 
we  could  only  imagine  what  they  are  at  the  proper  season.  These 
Indians  were  very  fat,  and  appeared  to  live  an  easy  and  happy  life. 
They  crowded  into  the  camp  more  than  was  consistent  with  our 
safety,  retaining  always  their  arms;  and,  as  they  made  some  unsatis- 
factory demonstrations,  they  were  given  to  understand  that  they 
would  not  be  permitted  to  come  armed  into  the  camp;  and  strong 
guards  were  kept  with  the  horses.  Strict  vigilance  was  maintained 
among  the  people,  and  one-third  at  a  time  were  kept  on  guard  dur- 
ing the  night.  There  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  these  dispositions, 
uniformly  preserved,  conducted  our  party  securely  through  Indians 
famed  for  treachery. 

In  the  mean  time,  such  a  salmon-trout  feast  as  is  seldom  seen  was 


100.   Cutthroat  trout    (Salmo   clar/^ii),   a   species   which    tolerates    alkaline 
water. 

609 


going  on  in  our  camp;  and  every  variety  of  manner  in  which  fish 
could  be  prepared— boiled,  fried,  and  roasted  in  the  ashes— was  put 
into  requisition;  and  every  few  minutes  an  Indian  would  be  seen 
running  off  to  spear  a  fresh  one.  Whether  these  Indians  had  seen 
whites  before,  we  could  not  be  certain;  but  they  were  evidently  in 
communication  with  others  who  had,  as  one  of  them  had  some  brass 
buttons,  and  we  noticed  several  other  articles  of  civilized  manufac- 
ture. We  could  obtain  from  them  but  little  information  respecting 
the  country.  They  made  on  the  ground  a  drawing  of  the  river,  which 
they  represented  as  issuing  from  another  lake  in  the  mountains  three 
or  four  days  distant,  in  a  direction  a  little  west  of  south;  beyond 
which,  they  drew  a  mountain;  and  further  still,  two  rivers;  on  one  of 
which  they  told  us  that  people  like  ourselves  travelled.  Whether  they 
alluded  to  the  settlements  on  the  Sacramento,  or  to  a  party  from  the 
United  States  which  had  crossed  the  Sierra  about  three  degrees  to  the 
southward,  a  few  years  since,  I  am  unable  to  determine. 

I  tried  unsuccessfully  to  prevail  on  some  of  them  to  guide  us  for  a 
few  days  on  the  road,  but  they  only  looked  at  each  other  and 

laughed. 

1*111 
The  latitude  of  our  encampment,  which  may  be  considered  the 

mouth  of  the  inlet,  is  39°  5V  13''  by  our  observations. 

January  16.— This  morning  we  continued  our  journey  along  this 
beautiful  stream,  which  we  naturally  called  the  Salmon  Trout  river. 
Large  trails  led  up  on  either  side;  the  stream  was  handsomely  tim- 
bered with  large  cotton  woods;  and  the  waters  were  very  clear  and 
pure.  We  were  travelling  along  the  mountains  of  the  great  Sierra, 
which  rose  on  our  right,  covered  with  snow ;  but  below  the  tempera- 
ture was  mild  and  pleasant.  We  saw  a  number  of  dams  which  the 
Indians  had  constructed  to  catch  fish.  After  having  made  about  18 
miles,  we  encamped  under  some  large  cottonwoods  on  the  river  bot- 
tom, where  there  was  tolerably  good  grass  [on  the  Truckee  River 
near  Wadsworth]. 

January  17.— This  morning  we  left  the  river,  which  here  issues 
from  the  mountains  on  the  west.  With  every  stream  I  now  expected 
to  see  the  great  Buenaventura;  and  Carson  hurried  eagerly  to  search, 
on  every  one  we  reached,  for  beaver  cuttings,  which  he  always  main- 
tained we  should  find  only  on  waters  that  ran  to  the  Pacific;  and  the 
absence  of  such  signs  was  to  him  a  sure  indication  that  the  water  had 
no  outlet  from  the  great  basin.  We  followed  the  Indian  trail  through 
a  tolerably  level  country,  with  small  sage  bushes,  which  brought  us, 

6io 


after  20  miles  journey,  to  another  large  stream  [Carson  River],  tim- 
bered with  Cottonwood,  and  flowing  also  out  of  the  mountains,  but 
running  more  directly  to  the  eastward. 

On  the  way  we  surprised  a  family  of  Indians  in  the  hills;  but  the 
man  ran  up  the  mountain  with  rapidity;  and  the  woman  was  so  ter- 
rified, and  kept  up  such  a  continued  screaming,  that  we  could  do 
nothing  with  her,  and  were  obliged  to  let  her  go. 

January  18. — There  were  Indian  lodges  and  fish  dams  on  the 
stream.  There  were  no  beaver  cuttings  on  the  river;  but  below,  it 
turned  round  to  the  right;  and,  hoping  that  it  would  prove  a  branch 
of  the  Buenaventura,  we  followed  it  down  for  about  three  hours,  and 
encamped. 

I  rode  out  with  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  and  Carson  to  reconnoitre  the 
country,  which  had  evidently  been  alarmed  by  the  news  of  our  ap- 
pearance. This  stream  joined  with  the  open  valley  of  another  to  the 
eastward;  but  which  way  the  main  water  ran,  it  was  impossible  to 
tell.  Columns  of  smoke  rose  over  the  country  at  scattered  intervals — 
signals  by  which  the  Indians  here,  as  elsewhere,  communicate  to  each 
other  that  enemies  are  in  the  country.  It  is  a  signal  of  ancient  and 
very  universal  application  among  barbarians. 

Examining  into  the  condition  of  the  animals  when  I  returned  into 
the  camp,  I  found  their  feet  so  much  cut  up  by  the  rocks,  and  so 
many  of  them  lame,  that  it  was  evidently  impossible  that  they  could 
cross  the  country  to  the  Rocky  mountains.  Every  piece  of  iron  that 
could  be  used  for  the  purpose  had  been  converted  into  nails,  and  we 
could  make  no  further  use  of  the  shoes  we  had  remaining.  I  there- 
fore determined  to  abandon  my  eastern  course,  and  to  cross  the 
Sierra  Nevada  into  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento,  wherever  a  practi- 
cable pass  could  be  found.  My  decision  was  heard  with  joy  by  the 
people,  and  diffused  new  life  throughout  the  camp. 


101 


101.  As  we  have  noted  earlier,  there  was  nothing  in  JCF's  orders  taking 
him  to  California.  It  seems  likely  that  he  could  have  wintered  comfortably  on 
the  Walker  or  the  Truckee,  living  off  salmon  and  other  game,  with  ample 
grass  for  the  animals.  Perhaps  he  had  heard  so  much  talk  of  western  expan- 
sion, around  the  Benton  fireside,  that  he  could  not  resist  the  opportunity  to 
obtain  geographical  and  political  information  on  California.  Indeed,  Thomas 
Hart  Benton  would  not  have  hesitated  to  give  him  private,  verbal  orders 
which  extended  or  altered  the  written  ones  he  had  received  from  his  superior. 
Colonel  Abert.  In  any  case,  it  is  well  to  remember  that  his  narrative,  contain- 
ing his  own  justification  for  his  actions,  was  written  after  his  return. 

Adding  to  the  confusion  about  when  and  why  JCF  decided  to  enter  Cali- 

6ii 


Latitude,  by  observation,  39°  24'  16'\ 

January  19. — A  great  number  of  smokes  are  still  visible  this  morn- 
ing, attesting  at  once  the  alarm  which  our  appearance  had  spread 
among  these  people,  and  their  ignorance  of  us.  If  they  knew  the 
whites,  they  would  understand  that  their  only  object  in  coming 
among  them  was  to  trade,  which  required  peace  and  friendship;  but 
they  have  nothing  to  trade — consequently,  nothing  to  attract  the 
white  man ;  hence  their  fear  and  flight. 

At  daybreak  we  had  a  heavy  snow;  but  sat  out,  and,  returning  up  the 
stream,  went  out  of  our  way  in  a  circuit  over  a  little  mountain ;  and 
encamped  on  the  same  stream,  a  few  miles  above,  in  latitude  39°  19' 
21"  by  observation. ^*^^ 

January  20. — To-day  we  continued  up  the  stream,  and  encamped 
on  it  close  to  the  mountains.  The  freshly  fallen  snow  was  covered 
with  the  tracks  of  Indians,  who  had  descended  from  the  upper 
waters,  probably  called  down  by  the  smokes  in  the  plain. 

We  ascended  a  peak  of  the  range,  which  commanded  a  view  of 
this  stream  behind  the  first  ridge,  where  it  was  winding  its  course 
through  a  somewhat  open  valley,  and  I  sometimes  regret  that  I  did 
not  make  the  trial  to  cross  here;  but  while  we  had  fair  weather  be- 
low, the  mountains  were  darkened  with  falling  snow,  and,  feeling 
unwilling  to  encounter  them,  we  turned  away  again  to  the  south- 
ward.^*^^  In  that  direction  we  travelled  the  next  day  over  a  tolerably 
level  country,  having  always  the  high  mountains  on  the  west.  There 
was  but  little  snow  or  rock  on  the  ground;  and,  after  having  trav- 
elled 24  miles,  we  encamped  again  on  another  large  stream,  running 


fornia  is  a  comment  by  Preuss  made  16  Oct.,  before  the  party  had  even 
reached  the  Walla  Walla.  First  he  wrote,  "Since  it  is  now  certain  that  we  shall 
not  get  home  this  winer,  I  am  making  plans  in  my  spare  time  of  how  to  spend 
all  the  money  I  shall  have  earned  by  next  spring."  And  later,  "The  latest 
plan  now  is  to  turn  south  from  Fort  Vancouver  through  Mexican  territory. 
There  we  shall  have  to  find  the  route  from  Monterey  to  Santa  Fe  and  follow 
it.  We  hope  to  find  sufficient  grass  for  the  animals  there"  (preuss,  93-94). 

There  is  also  to  be  considered  Marcus  Whitman's  belief  that  JCF  was 
returning  home  at  once  "by  the  head  of  the  Missouri"  unless  he  decided  to 
charter  a  vessel  and  go  home  by  way  of  Panama  (see  note  73  above). 

102.  The  camp  on  19  Jan.  was  near  the  site  of  Fort  Churchill. 

103.  The  "winding  stream"  and  the  "open  valley"  were  Carson  River  and 
Carson  Valley.  Had  JCF  gone  westward  instead  of  turning  south,  he  would 
have  been  following  Walker's  route  of  1833  and  1843  up  the  Carson  River 
and  would  have  saved  a  long  and  futile  detour  to  the  south  (fletcher,  121). 

6l2 


off  to  the  northward  and  eastward,  to  meet  that  we  had  left.  It  ran 
through  broad  bottoms,  having  a  fine  meadow-land  appearance/*'^ 

Latitude  39°  or  53". 

January  22.— We  travelled  up  the  stream  for  about  14  miles  to  the 
foot  of  the  mountains,  from  which  one  branch  issued  in  the  south- 
west, the  other  flowing  from  SSE.  along  their  base.  Leaving  the 
camp  below,  we  ascended  the  range  through  which  the  first  stream 
passed,  in  a  canon;  on  the  western  side  was  a  circular  valley,  about 
15  miles  long,  through  which  the  stream  wound  its  way,  issuing 
from  a  gorge  in  the  main  mountain,  which  rose  abruptly  beyond. 
The  valley  looked  yellow  with  faded  grass;  and  the  trail  we  had  fol- 
lowed was  visible,  making  towards  the  gorge,  and  this  was  evidently 
a  pass;  but  again,  while  all  was  bright  sunshine  on  the  ridge  and  on 
the  valley  where  we  were,  the  snow  was  falling  heavily  in  the  moun- 
tains. I  determined  to  go  still  to  the  southward,  and  encamped  on  the 
stream  near  the  forks;  the  animals  being  fatigued  and  the  grass  toler- 
ably good.'"' 

The  rock  of  the  ridge  we  had  ascended  is  a  compact  lava,  assum- 
ing a  granitic  appearance  and  structure,  and  containing,  in  some 
places,  small  nodules  of  obsidian.  So  far  as  composition  and  aspect 
are  concerned,  the  rocks  in  other  parts  of  the  ridge  appears  to  be 
granite;  but  it  is  probable  that  this  is  only  a  compact  form  of  lava  of 
recent  origin. 


104.  The  party  was  on  the  Walker  River  a  few  miles  north  of  present  Yer- 
ington,  Nev. 

105.  Here  JCF  takes  the  East  Walker  and  begins  a  period  of  confused 
traveling.  A  week  later  he  will  be  camping  on  the  other  branch,  the  West 
Walker,  not  far  from  his  present  position. 

The  movements  of  the  expedition  before  and  during  the  Sierra  crossing 
have  been  the  subject  of  much  speculation.  Neither  JCF's  nor  Preuss'  journal, 
nor  the  1845  map,  are  of  much  help  in  solving  the  problem.  The  senior  editor 
of  this  edition  has  visited  the  area  and  has  traced  the  possible  routes  of  the 
men  on  U.S.G.S.  quadrangle  maps,  but  in  the  end  he  finds  himself  relying 
upon  published  and  unpublished  researches  of  others. 

SMITH,  DELLENBAUGH,  and  FARQt'HAR  are  among  those  who  have  attempted  to 
clarify  the  matter.  Relying  in  part  upon  those  writers,  but  supplementing  his 
research  with  actual  observation,  Vincent  P.  Gianella  published  a  study  of 
the  subject  in  1959.  In  the  annotations  that  follow,  we  cite  Gianella  and  others, 
and  also  rely  upon  an  exchange  of  correspondence  with  Fred  I.  Green,  of 
Reno,  Nev.,  who  has  spent  a  lifetime  in  the  area  and  has  some  interesting 
points  of  view.  He  has  not  published  his  own  version  of  the  crossing,  which 
differs  from  Gianella's,  but  marked  maps  and  other  exhibits  of  his  work  are 
available  at  the  Nevada  State  Museum,  Carson  City. 

613 


By  observation,  the  elevation  of  the  encampment  was  5,020  feet; 
and  the  latitude  38°  49' 54". 

January  23. — We  moved  along  the  course  of  the  other  branch  to- 
wards the  southeast,  the  country  affording  a  fine  road;  and,  passing 
some  slight  dividing  grounds,  descended  towards  the  valley  of  an- 
other stream.  There  was  a  somewhat  rough-looking  mountain  ahead, 
which  it  appeared  to  issue  from,  or  to  enter — we  could  not  tell 
which;  and  as  the  course  of  the  valley  and  the  inclination  of  the 
ground  had  a  favorable  direction,  we  were  sanguine  to  find  here  a 
branch  of  the  Buenaventura;  but  were  again  disappointed,  finding  it 
an  inland  water,  on  which  we  encamped  after  a  day's  journey  of  24 
miles.  It  was  evident  that,  from  the  time  we  descended  into  the  plain 
at  Summer  lake,  we  had  been  flanking  the  great  range  of  mountains 
which  divided  the  Great  Basin  from  the  waters  of  the  Pacific;  and 
that  the  continued  succession,  and  almost  connexion,  of  lakes  and 
rivers  which  we  encountered,  were  the  drainings  of  that  range.  Its 
rains,  springs,  and  snows,  would  sufficiently  account  for  these  lakes 
and  streams,  numerous  as  they  were. 

January  24. — A  man  was  discovered  running  towards  the  camp  as 
we  were  about  to  start  this  morning,  who  proved  to  be  an  Indian  of 
rather  advanced  age — a  sort  of  forlorn  hope,  who  seemed  to  have 
been  worked  up  into  the  resolution  of  visiting  the  strangers  who 
were  passing  through  the  country.^*'*'  He  seized  the  hand  of  the  first 
man  he  met  as  he  came  up,  out  of  breath,  and  held  on,  as  if  to  assure 
himself  of  protection.  He  brought  with  him  in  a  little  skin  bag  a 
few  pounds  of  the  seeds  of  a  pine  tree,  which  to-day  we  saw  for  the 
first  time,  and  which  Dr.  Torrey  has  described  as  a  new  species,  under 
the  name  of  pinus  monophyllus;  in  popular  language,  it  might  be 
called  the  nut  pine.  We  purchased  them  all  from  him.  The  nut  is 
oily,  of  very  agreeable  flavor,  and  must  be  very  nutritious,  as  it  con- 
stitutes the  principal  subsistence  of  the  tribes  among  which  we  were 
now  travelling.  By  a  present  of  scarlet  cloth,  and  other  striking  arti- 
cles, we  prevailed  upon  this  man  to  be  our  guide  of  two  days'  jour- 
ney. As  clearly  as  possible  by  signs,  we  made  him  understand  our  ob- 
ject; and  he  engaged  to  conduct  us  in  sight  of  a  good  pass  which  he 
knew.  Here  we  ceased  to  hear  the  Shoshonee  language;  that  of  this 
man  being  perfectly  unintelligible.  Several  Indians,  who  had  been 


106.  Probably  a  member  of  the  Washo  tribe. 


614 


waiting  to  see  what  reception  he  would  meet  with,  now  came 
into  camp;  and,  accompanied  by  the  new  comers,  we  resumed  our 
journey. 

The  road  led  us  up  the  creek,  which  here  becomes  a  rather  rapid 
mountain  stream,  fifty  feet  wide,  between  dark-looking  hills  without 
snow;  but  immediately  beyond  them  rose  snowy  mountains  on 
either  side,  timbered  principally  with  the  nut  pine.  On  the  lower 
grounds,  the  general  height  of  this  tree  is  twelve  to  twenty  feet,  and 
eight  inches  the  greatest  diameter;  it  is  rather  branching,  and  has  a 
peculiar  and  singular  but  pleasant  odor.  We  followed  the  river  for 
only  a  short  distance  along  a  rocky  trail,  and  crossed  it  at  a  dam 
which  the  Indians  made  us  comprehend  had  been  built  to  catch 
salmon  trout.  The  snow  and  ice  were  heaped  up  against  it  three  or 
four  feet  deep  entirely  across  the  stream. 

Leaving  here  the  stream,  which  runs  through  impassable  canons, 
we  continued  our  road  over  a  very  broken  country,  passing  through 
a  low  gap  between  the  snowy  mountains.  The  rock  which  occurs  im- 
mediately in  the  pass  has  the  appearance  of  impure  sandstone,  con- 
taining scales  of  black  mica.  This  may  be  only  a  stratified  lava;  on 
issuing  from  the  gap,  the  compact  lava,  and  other  volcanic  products 
usual  in  the  country,  again  occurred.  We  descended  from  the  gap 
into  a  wide  valley,  or  rather  basin,  and  encamped  on  a  small  tribu- 
tary to  the  last  stream,  on  which  there  was  very  good  grass.  It  was 
covered  with  such  thick  ice,  that  it  required  some  labor  with  pick- 
axes to  make  holes  for  the  animals  to  drink.  The  banks  are  lighdy 
wooded  with  willow,  and  on  the  upper  bottoms  are  sage  and  Fre- 
montia  with  ephedra  occidentaVis,  which  begins  to  occur  more  fre- 
quently. The  day  has  been  a  summer  one,  warm  and  pleasant;  no 
snow  on  the  trail,  which,  as  we  are  all  on  foot,  makes  travelling  more 
agreeable.  The  hunters  went  into  the  neighboring  mountains,  but 
found  no  game.  We  have  five  Indians  in  camp  to-night. 

January  25. — The  morning  was  cold  and  bright,  and  as  the  sun 
rose  the  day  became  beautiful.  A  party  of  twelve  Indians  came  down 
from  the  mountains  to  trade  pine  nuts,  of  which  each  one  carried  a 
little  bag.  These  seemed  now  to  be  the  staple  of  the  country;  and 
whenever  we  met  an  Indian,  his  friendly  salutation  consisted  in  offer- 
ing a  few  nuts  to  eat  and  to  trade;  their  only  arms  were  bows  and 
flint-pointed  arrows.  It  appeared  that,  in  almost  all  the  valleys,  the 
neighboring  bands  were  at  war  with  each  other;  and  we  had  some 


615 


difficulty  in  prevailing  on  our  guides  to  accompany  us  on  this  day's 
journey,  being  at  war  with  the  people  on  the  other  side  of  a  large 
snowy  mountain  which  lay  before  us. 

The  general  level  of  the  country  appeared  to  be  getting  higher, 
and  we  were  gradually  entering  the  heart  of  the  mountains.  Accom- 
panied by  all  the  Indians,  we  ascended  a  long  ridge,  and  reached  a 
pure  spring  at  the  edge  of  the  timber,  where  the  Indians  had  waylaid 
and  killed  an  antelope,  and  where  the  greater  part  of  them  left  us. 
Our  pacific  conduct  had  quieted  their  alarms;  and  though  at  war 
among  each  other,  yet  all  confided  in  us.  Thanks  to  the  combined 
effects  of  power  and  kindness— for  our  arms  inspired  respect,  and 
our  litde  presents  and  good  treatment  conciliated  their  confidence. 
Here  we  suddenly  entered  snow  six  inches  deep,  and  the  ground  was 
a  little  rocky  with  volcanic  fragments,  the  mountain  appearing  to  be 
composed  of  such  rock.  The  timber  consists  principally  of  nut  pines, 
{pinus  moTiophyllus,)  which  here  are  of  larger  size — 12  to  15  inches 
in  diameter ;  heaps  of  cones  lying  on  the  ground,  where  the  Indians 
have  gathered  the  seeds. 

The  snow  deepened  gradually  as  we  advanced.  Our  guides  wore 
out  their  moccasins;  and,  putting  one  of  them  on  a  horse,  we  en- 
joyed the  unusual  sight  of  an  Indian  who  could  not  ride.  He  could 
not  even  guide  the  animal,  and  appeared  to  have  no  knowledge  of 
horses.  The  snow  was  three  or  four  feet  deep  in  the  summit  of  the 
pass;  and  from  this  point  the  guide  pointed  out  our  future  road, 
declining  to  go  any  further.  Below  us  was  a  litde  valley;  and  beyond 
this,  the  mountains  rose  higher  still,  one  ridge  above  another,  pre- 
senting a  rude  and  rocky  outline.  We  descended  rapidly  to  the  val- 
ley; the  snow  impeded  us  but  little;  yet  it  was  dark  when  we  reached 
the  foot  of  the  mountain. 

The  day  had  been  so  warm,  that  our  moccasins  were  wet  with 
melting  snow;  but  here,  as  soon  as  the  sun  begins  to  decline,  the  air 
gets  suddenly  cold,  and  we  had  great  difficulty  to  keep  our  feet  from 
freezing — our  moccasins  being  frozen  perfectly  stifT.  After  a  hard 
day's  march  of  27  miles,  we  reached  the  river  some  time  after  dark, 
and  found  the  snow  about  a  foot  deep  on  the  bottom— the  river  be- 
ing entirely  frozen  over.  We  found  a  comfortable  camp,  where  there 
were  dry  willows  abundant,  and  we  soon  had  blazing  fires.       A 


107.  DELLENBAUGH,  215,  placcs  the  party  on  the  East  Walker  River,  just 
downstream  from  Bridgeport,  Calif. 

6i6 


little  brandy,  which  I  husbanded  with  great  care,  remained,  and  I  do 
not  know  any  medicine  more  salutary,  or  any  drink  (except  coffee) 
more  agreeable,  than  this  in  a  cold  night  after  a  hard  day's  march. 
Mr.  Preuss  questioned  whether  the  famed  nectar  even  possessed  so 
exquisite  a  flavor.  All  felt  it  to  be  a  reviving  cordial. 

The  next  morning,  when  the  sun  had  not  yet  risen  over  the  moun- 
tains, the  thermometer  was  2°  below  zero;  but  the  sky  was  bright 
and  pure,  and  the  weather  changed  rapidly  into  a  pleasant  day  of 
summer.  I  remained  encamped,  in  order  to  examine  the  country,  and 
allow  the  animals  a  day  of  rest,  the  grass  being  good  and  abundant 
under  the  snow. 

The  river  is  fifty  to  eighty  feet  wide,  with  a  lively  current,  and 
very  clear  water.  It  forked  a  little  above  our  camp,  one  of  its  branches 
coming  directly  from  the  south.  At  its  head  appeared  to  be  a  hand- 
some pass;  and  from  the  neighboring  heights  we  could  see,  beyond, 
a  comparatively  low  and  open  country,  which  was  supposed  to  form 
the  valley  of  the  Buenaventura.  The  other  branch  issued  from  a 
nearer  pass,  in  a  direction  S.  75°  W.,  forking  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  receiving  part  of  its  waters  from  a  little  lake.  I  was  in  ad- 
vance of  the  camp  when  our  last  guides  had  left  us;  but,  so  far  as 
could  be  understood,  this  was  the  pass  which  they  had  indicated,  and, 
in  company  with  Carson,  to-day  I  set  out  to  explore  it.  Entering  the 
range,  we  continued  in  a  northwesterly  direction  up  the  valley, 
which  here  bent  to  the  right.  It  was  pretty,  open  bottom,  locked  be- 
tween lofty  mountains,  which  supplied  frequent  streams  as  we  ad- 
vanced. On  the  lower  part  they  were  covered  with  nut-pine  trees, 
and  above  with  masses  of  pine,  which  we  easily  recognised,  from  the 
darker  color  of  the  foliage.  From  the  fresh  trails  which  occurred 
frequently  during  the  morning,  deer  appeared  to  be  remarkably 
numerous  in  the  mountain. 

We  had  now  entirely  left  the  desert  country,  and  were  on  the  verge 
of  a  region  which,  extending  westward  to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific, 
abounds  in  large  game,  and  is  covered  with  a  singular  luxuriance  of 
vegetable  life. 

The  little  stream  grew  rapidly  smaller,  and  in  about  twelve  miles 
we  had  reached  its  head,  the  last  water  coming  immediately  out  of 
the  mountain  on  the  right;  and  this  spot  was  selected  for  our  next 
encampment.  The  grass  showed  well  in  sunny  places;  but  in  colder 
situations  the  snow  was  deep,  and  began  to  occur  in  banks,  through 
which  the  horses  found  some  difficulty  in  breaking  a  way. 

617 


To  the  left,  the  open  valley  continued  in  a  southwesterly  direction, 
with  a  scarcely  perceptible  ascent,  forming  a  beautiful  pass;  the  ex- 
ploration of  which  we  deferred  until  the  next  day,  and  returned  to 
the  camp. 

To-day  an  Indian  passed  through  the  valley,  on  his  way  into  the 
mountains,  where  he  showed  us  was  his  lodge.  We  comprehended 
nothing  of  his  language;  and,  though  he  appeared  to  have  no  fear, 
passing  along  in  full  view  of  the  camp,  he  was  indisposed  to  hold 
any  communication  with  us,  but  showed  the  way  he  was  going,  and 
pointed  for  us  to  go  on  our  road. 

By  observation,  the  latitude  of  this  encampment  was  38°  18'  01'', 
and  the  elevation  above  the  sea  6,310  feet. 

January  27. — Leaving  the  camp  to  follow  slowly,  with  directions 
to  Carson  to  encamp  at  the  place  agreed  on,  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  and  my- 
self continued  the  reconnoissance.  Arriving  at  the  head  of  the  stream, 
we  began  to  enter  the  pass — passing  occasionally  through  open 
groves  of  large  pine  trees,  on  the  warm  side  of  the  defile,  where  the 
snow  had  melted  away,  occasionally  exposing  a  large  Indian  trail. 
Continuing  along  a  narrow  meadow,  we  reached  in  a  few  miles  the 
gate  of  the  pass,  where  there  was  a  narrow  strip  of  prairie,  about 
fifty  yards  wide,  between  walls  of  granite  rock.  On  either  side  rose 
the  mountains,  forming  on  the  left  a  rugged  mass,  or  nucleus,  wholly 
covered  with  deep  snow,  presenting  a  glittering  and  icy  surface.  At 
the  time,  we  supposed  this  to  be  the  point  into  which  they  were 
gathered  between  the  two  great  rivers,^"^  and  from  which  the  waters 
flowed  off  to  the  bay.  This  was  the  icy  and  cold  side  of  the  pass,  and  the 
rays  of  the  sun  hardly  touched  the  snow.  On  the  left,  the  mountains 
rose  into  peaks;  but  they  were  lower  and  secondary,  and  the  country 
had  a  somewhat  more  open  and  lighter  character.  On  the  right  were 
several  hot  springs,  which  appeared  remarkable  in  such  a  place.  In 
going  through,  we  felt  impressed  by  the  majesty  of  the  mountain, 
along  the  huge  wall  of  which  we  were  riding.  Here  there  was  no 
snow;  but  immediately  beyond  was  a  deep  bank,  through  which  we 
dragged  our  horses  with  considerable  effort.  We  then  immediately 
struck  upon  a  stream,  which  gathered  itself  rapidly,  and  descended 
quick;  and  the  valley  did  not  preserve  the  open  character  of  the  other 
side,  appearing  below  to  form  a  caiion.  We  therefore  climbed  one  of 


108.  Apparently  he  means  the  San  Joaquin  and  the  Sacramento. 

6i8 


the  peaks  on  the  right/°^  leaving  our  horses  below ;  but  we  were  so 
much  shut  up,  that  we  did  not  obtain  an  extensive  view,  and  what 
we  saw  was  not  very  satisfactory,  and  awakened  considerable  doubt. 
The  valley  of  the  stream  pursued  a  northwesterly  direction,  appear- 
ing below  to  turn  sharply  to  the  right,  beyond  which  further  view 
was  cut  off.  It  was,  nevertheless,  resolved  to  continue  our  road  the 
next  day  down  this  valley,  which  we  trusted  still  would  prove  that  of 
the  middle  stream  between  the  two  great  rivers.  Towards  the  sum- 
mit of  this  peak,  the  fields  of  snow  were  four  or  five  feet  deep  on  the 
northern  side;  and  we  saw  several  large  hares,  which  had  on  their 
winter  color,  being  white  as  the  snow  around  them. 

The  winter  day  is  short  in  the  mountains,  the  sun  having  but  a  small 
space  of  sky  to  travel  over  in  the  visible  part  above  our  horizon ;  and 
the  moment  his  rays  are  gone,  the  air  is  keenly  cold.  The  interest  of 
our  work  had  detained  us  long,  and  it  was  after  nightfall  when  we 
reached  the  camp. 

January  28. — To-day  we  went  through  the  pass  with  all  the  camp, 
and,  after  a  hard  day's  journey  of  twelve  miles,  encamped  on  a  high 
point  where  the  snow  had  been  blown  off,  and  the  exposed  grass 
afforded  a  scanty  pasture  for  the  animals.  Snow  and  broken  country 
together  made  our  travelling  difficult:  we  were  often  compelled  to 
make  large  circuits,  and  ascend  the  highest  and  most  exposed  ridges, 
in  order  to  avoid  snow,  which  in  other  places  was  banked  up  to  a 
great  depth. 

During  the  day  a  few  Indians  were  seen  circling  around  us  on 
snow  shoes,  and  skimming  along  like  birds;  but  we  could  not  bring 
them  within  speaking  distance.  Godey,  who  was  a  little  distance 
from  the  camp,  had  sat  down  to  tie  his  moccasins,  when  he  heard  a 
low  whistle  near,  and,  looking  up,  saw  two  Indians  half  hiding  be- 
hind a  rock  about  forty  yards  distant;  they  would  not  allow  him  to 
approach,  but,  breaking  into  a  laugh,  skimmed  off  over  the  snow, 
seeming  to  have  no  idea  of  the  power  of  fire  arms,  and  thinking 
themselves  perfectly  safe  when  beyond  arm's  length. 


110 


109.  Fred  I.  Green  (letter  of  8  June  1968)  believes  that  JCF  and  Fitzpat- 
rick  made  their  observations  from  an  unnamed  elevation  of  8,422  feet,  three 
miles  north  of  Burcham  Flat. 

110.  Green  believes  that  JCF  was  now  on  Mill  Creek,  a  stream  which  joins 
the  West  Walker  at  the  head  of  Antelope  Valley.  The  Indians  were  Mill 
Creek  Washo  whose  village  was  at  the  mouth  of  the  creek.  They  may  have 


619 


To-night  we  did  not  succeed  in  getting  the  howitzer  into  camp. 
This  was  the  most  laborious  day  we  had  yet  passed  through;  the 
steep  ascents  and  deep  snow  exhausting  both  men  and  animals.  Our 
single  chronometer  had  stopped  during  the  day,  and  its  error  in  time 
occasioned  the  loss  of  an  eclipse  of  a  satellite  this  evening.  It  had  not 
preserved  the  rate  with  which  we  started  from  the  Dalles,  and  this 
will  account  for  the  absence  of  longitudes  along  this  interval  of  our 
journey. 

January  29. — From  this  height  we  could  see,  at  a  considerable  dis- 
tance below,  yellow  spots  in  the  [Antelope]  valley,  which  indicated 
that  there  was  not  much  snow.  One  of  these  places  we  expected  to 
reach  to-night;  and  some  time  being  required  to  bring  up  the  gun,  I 
went  ahead  with  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  and  a  few  men,  leaving  the  camp 
to  follow,  in  charge  of  Mr.  Preuss.  We  followed  a  trail  down  a  hol- 
low where  the  Indians  had  descended,  the  snow  being  so  deep  that 
we  never  came  near  the  ground;  but  this  only  made  our  descent  the 
easier,  and,  when  we  reached  a  little  affluent  to  the  river  at  the  bot- 
tom, we  suddenly  found  ourselves  in  presence  of  eight  or  ten  In- 
dians. They  seemed  to  be  watching  our  motions,  and,  like  the  others, 
at  first  were  indisposed  to  let  us  approach,  ranging  themselves  like 
birds  on  a  fallen  log  on  the  hill  side  above  our  heads,  where,  being 
out  of  reach,  they  thought  themselves  safe.  Our  friendly  demeanor 
reconciled  them,  and,  when  we  got  near  enough,  they  immediately 
stretched  out  to  us  handfulls  of  pine  nuts,  which  seemed  an  exercise 
of  hospitality.  We  made  them  a  few  presents,  and,  telling  us  that 
their  village  was  a  few  miles  below,  they  went  on  to  let  their  people 
know  what  we  were.  The  principal  stream  still  running  through  an 
impracticable  caiion,  we  ascended  a  very  steep  hill,  which  proved 
afterwards  the  last  and  fatal  obstacle  to  our  little  howitzer,  which 
was  finally  abandoned  at  this  place.^"  We  passed  through  a  small 


been  on  the  way  to  Summit  Meadows,  where  they  caught  hares  in  the  deep 
snow  during  the  winter  months. 

HI.  The  late  Carl  P.  Russell  wrote  (russell,  275)  that  the  howitzer  was 
abandoned  on  the  East  Walker  River.  But  if  we  are  to  follow  the  theory  of 
Fred  I.  Green,  which  we  are  inclined  to  do,  we  must  place  the  location  on  Mill 
Creek.  Certainly  the  weapon  was  not  left  on  Lost  Cannon  Creek,  a  stream 
farther  west.  A  howitzer  on  display  at  the  Nevada  State  Museum  is  also  a 
brass  twelve-pounder,  one  of  a  dozen  made  in  1836  for  the  Army.  It  might 
be  the  one  which  JCF  had  to  leave  behind,  and  there  is  a  local  tradition  that 
the  JCF  weapon  was  found  several  decades  ago.  But  the  museum  staff  cannot 
trace  their  specimen  back  in  an  unbroken  line;  there  is  a  gap  in  the  records. 

620 


meadow  a  few  miles  below,  crossing  the  river,  which  depth,  swift  cur- 
rent, and  rock,  made  it  difficult  to  ford;  and,  after  a  few  more  miles 
of  very  difficult  trail,  issued  into  a  larger  prairie  bottom,  at  the 
farther  end  of  which  we  encamped,  in  a  position  rendered  strong  by 
rocks  and  trees.  The  lower  parts  of  the  mountain  were  covered  with 
the  nut  pine.  Several  [Mill  Creek  Washo]  Indians  appeared  on  the 
hill  side,  reconnoitring  the  camp,  and  were  induced  to  come  in; 
others  came  in  during  the  afternoon ;  and  in  the  evening  we  held  a 
council.  The  Indians  immediately  made  it  clear  that  the  waters  on 
which  we  were  also  belong  to  the  Great  Basin,  in  the  edge  of  which 
we  had  been  since  the  17th  of  December;  and  it  became  evident  that 
we  had  still  the  great  ridge  on  the  left  to  cross  before  we  could  reach 
the  Pacific  waters. 

We  explained  to  the  Indians  that  we  were  endeavoring  to  find  a 
passage  across  the  mountains  into  the  country  of  the  whites,  whom 
we  were  going  to  see ;  and  told  them  that  we  wished  them  to  bring 
us  a  guide,  to  whom  we  would  give  presents  of  scarlet  cloth,  and 
other  articles,  which  were  shown  to  them.  They  looked  at  the  re- 
ward we  offered,  and  conferred  with  each  other,  but  pointed  to  the 
snow  on  the  mountain,  and  drew  their  hands  across  their  necks,  and 
raised  them  above  their  heads,  to  show  the  depth;  and  signified  that 
it  was  impossible  for  us  to  get  through.  They  made  signs  that  we 
must  go  to  the  southward,  over  a  pass  through  a  lower  range,  which 
they  pointed  out;  there,  they  said,  at  the  end  of  one  day's  travel,  we 
would  find  people  who  lived  near  a  pass  in  the  great  mountain;  and 
to  that  point  they  engaged  to  furnish  us  a  guide.  They  appeared  to 
have  a  confused  idea,  from  report,  of  whites  who  lived  on  the  other 
side  of  the  mountain;  and  once,  they  told  us,  about  two  years  ago, 
a  party  of  twelve  men  like  ourselves  had  ascended  their  river,  and 
crossed  to  the  other  waters.  They  pointed  out  to  us  where  they  had 
crossed;  but  then,  they  said,  it  was  summer  time;  but  now  it  would 
be  impossible.  I  believe  that  this  was  a  party  led  by  Mr.  Chiles,  one 
of  the  only  two  men  whom  I  know  to  have  passed  through  the  Cal- 
ifornia mountains  from  the  interior  of  the  Basin— Walker  being  the 
other;  and  both  were  engaged  upwards  of  twenty  days,  in  the  sum- 
mer time,  in  getting  over.""  Chiles's  destination  was  the  bay  of  San 


Museum  Director  James  Calhoun  suggests  that  the  howitzer  in  his  care  may 
have  been  brought  west  by  dragoons. 

112.  Green  plausibly  suggests  that  this  was  Joseph  R.  Walker  and  a  party 
of  twelve  who  appeared  in  Los  Angeles  in  Feb.  1841  (not  in  the  summer,  as 

621 


Francisco,  to  which  he  descended  by  the  Stanislaus  river;  and 
Walker  subsequently  informed  me  that,  like  myself,  descending  to 
the  southward  on  a  more  eastern  line,  day  after  day  he  was  search- 
ing for  the  Buenaventura,  thinking  that  he  had  found  it  with  every 
new  stream,  until,  like  me,  he  abandoned  all  idea  of  its  existence, 
and,  turning  abruptly  to  the  right,  crossed  the  great  chain.  These 
were  both  western  men,  animated  with  the  spirit  of  exploratory  en- 
terprise which  characterizes  that  people. 

The  Indians  brought  in  during  the  evening  an  abundant  supply 
of  pine  nuts,  which  we  traded  from  them.  When  roasted,  their 
pleasant  flavor  made  them  an  agreeable  addition  to  our  now  scanty 
store  of  provisions,  which  were  reduced  to  a  very  low  ebb.  Our 
principal  stock  was  in  peas,  which  it  is  not  necessary  to  say  contain 
scarcely  any  nutriment.  We  had  still  a  little  flour  left,  some  coffee, 
and  a  quantity  of  sugar,  which  I  reserved  as  a  defence  against  star- 
vation. 

The  Indians  informed  us  that  at  certain  seasons  they  have  fish  in 
their  waters,  which  we  supposed  to  be  salmon  trout;  for  the  re- 
mainder of  the  year  they  live  upon  the  pine  nuts,  which  form  their 
great  winter  subsistence — a  portion  being  always  at  hand,  shut  up 
in  the  natural  storehouse  of  the  cones.  At  present,  they  were  pre- 
sented to  us  as  a  whole  people  living  upon  this  simple  vegetable. 

The  other  division  of  the  party  did  not  come  in  to-night,  but  en- 
camped in  the  upper  meadow,  and  arrived  the  next  morning.  They 
had  not  succeeded  in  getting  the  howitzer  beyond  the  place  men- 
tioned, and  where  it  had  been  left  by  Mr.  Preuss  in  obedience  to  my 
orders;  and,  in  anticipation  of  the  snow  banks  and  snow  fields  still 
ahead,  foreseeing  the  inevitable  detention  to  which  it  would  subject 
us,  I  reluctantly  determined  to  leave  it  there  for  the  time.  It  was  of 
the  kind  invented  by  the  French  for  the  mountain  part  of  their  war 
in  Algiers;  and  the  distance  it  had  come  with  us  proved  how  well  it 
was  adapted  to  its  purpose.  We  left  it,  to  the  great  sorrow  of  the 
whole  party,  who  were  grieved  to  part  with  a  companion  which 
had  made  the  whole  distance  from  St.  Louis,  and  commanded  re- 
spect for  us  on  some  critical  occasions,  and  which  might  be  needed 
for  the  same  purpose  again. 


JCF  says).  Walker's  presence  in  the  Los  Angeles  area  is  documented  by 
passages  in  the  Stearns  Papers,  CSmH.  It  is  also  possible  that  the  Indians  had 
seen,  or  heard  of,  a  part  of  the  Bartleson-Bidwell  caravan  which  crossed  the 
Sierra  north  of  Sonora  Pass  in  1841. 

622 


January  30. — Our  guide,  who  was  a  young  man,  joined  us  this 
morning;  and,  leaving  our  encampment  late  in  the  day,  we  de- 
scended the  river,  which  immediately  opened  out  into  a  broad  valley, 
furnishing  good  travelling  ground.  In  a  short  distance  we  passed 
the  village,  a  collection  of  straw  huts;  and  a  few  miles  below,  the 
guide  pointed  out  the  place  where  the  whites  had  been  encamped 
before  they  entered  the  mountain.  With  our  late  start  we  made  but 
ten  miles,  and  encamped  on  the  low  river  bottom,  where  there  was 
no  snow,  but  a  great  deal  of  ice;  and  we  cut  piles  of  long  grass 
to  lay  under  our  blankets,  and  fires  were  made  of  large  dry  willows, 
groves  of  which  wooded  the  stream.  The  river  took  here  a  north- 
easterly direction,  and  through  a  spur  from  the  mountains  on  the  left 
was  the  gap  where  we  were  to  pass  the  next  day. 

]aj2uary  31. — We  took  our  way  over  a  gently  rising  ground,  the 
dividing  ridge  being  tolerably  low;  and  traveUing  easily  along  a 
broad  trail,  in  twelve  or  fourteen  miles  reached  the  upper  part  of 
the  pass,  when  it  began  to  snow  thickly,  with  very  cold  weather.  The 
Indians  had  only  the  usual  scanty  covering,  and  appeared  to  suffer 
greatly  from  the  cold.  All  left  us,  except  our  guide.  Half  hidden  by 
the  storm,  the  mountains  looked  dreary;  and,  as  night  began  to  ap- 
proach, the  guide  showed  great  reluctance  to  go  forward.  I  placed 
him  between  two  rifles,  for  the  way  began  to  be  difficult.  Travelling 
a  litde  farther,  we  struck  a  ravine,  which  the  Indian  said  would 
conduct  us  to  the  river;  and  as  the  poor  fellow  suffered  gready, 
shivering  in  the  snow  which  fell  upon  his  naked  skin,  I  would  not 
detain  him  any  longer;  and  he  ran  off  to  the  mountain,  where  he 
said  there  was  a  hut  near  by.  He  had  kept  the  blue  and  scarlet  cloth 
I  had  given  him  tightly  rolled  up,  preferring  rather  to  endure  the 
cold  than  to  get  them  wet.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  one  of 
the  men  had  his  foot  frost  bitten ;  and  about  dark  we  had  the  satisfac- 
tion to  reach  the  bottoms  of  a  stream  timbered  with  large  trees, 
among  which  we  found  a  sheltered  camp,  with  an  abundance  of 
such  grass  as  the  season  afforded  for  the  animals.  We  saw  before  us, 
in  descending  from  the  pass,  a  great  continuous  range,  along  which 
stretched  the  valley  of  the  river;  the  lower  parts  steep,  and  dark  with 
pines,  while  above  it  was  hidden  in  clouds  of  snow.  This  we  felt 
instantly  satisfied  was  the  central  ridge  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the 


113.  The  expedition  is  in  Antelope  Valley,  which  it  entered  from  the  mouth 
of  West  Walker  Canyon. 

623 


great  California  mountain,  which  only  now  intervened  between  us 
and  the  waters  of  the  bay.  We  had  made  a  forced  march  of  26  miles, 
and  three  mules  had  given  out  on  the  road.  Up  to  this  point,  with 
the  exception  of  two  stolen  by  Indians,  we  had  lost  none  of  the 
horses  which  had  been  brought  from  the  Columbia  river,  and  a 
number  of  these  were  still  strong  and  in  tolerably  good  order.  We 
had  now  67  animals  in  the  band. 

We  had  scarcely  lighted  our  fires,  when  the  camp  was  crowded 
with  nearly  naked  Indians;  some  of  them  were  furnished  with  long 
nets  in  addition  to  bows,  and  appeared  to  have  been  out  on  the  sage 
hills  to  hunt  rabbits.  These  nets  were  perhaps  30  to  40  feet  long,  kept 
upright  in  the  ground  by  slight  sticks  at  intervals,  and  were  made 
from  a  kind  of  wild  hemp,  very  much  resembling  in  manufacture 
those  common  among  the  Indians  of  the  Sacramento  valley.  They 
came  among  us  without  any  fear,  and  scattered  themselves  about  the 
fires,  mainly  occupied  in  gratifying  their  astonishment.  I  was  struck 
by  the  singular  appearance  of  a  row  of  about  a  dozen,  who  were 
sitting  on  their  haunches  perched  on  a  log  near  one  of  the  fires,  with 
their  quick  sharp  eyes  following  every  motion. 

We  gathered  together  a  few  of  the  most  intelligent  of  the  Indians, 
and  held  this  evening  an  interesting  council.  I  explained  to  them  my 
intentions.  I  told  them  that  we  had  come  from  a  very  far  country, 
having  been  travelling  now  nearly  a  year,  and  that  we  were  desirous 
simply  to  go  across  the  mountain  into  the  country  of  the  other 
whites.  There  were  two  who  appeared  particularly  intelligent — one, 
a  somewhat  old  man.  He  told  me  that,  before  the  snows  fell,  it  was 
six  sleeps  to  the  place  where  the  whites  lived,  but  that  now  it  was 
impossible  to  cross  the  mountain  on  account  of  the  deep  snow ;  and 
showing  us,  as  the  others  had  done,  that  it  was  over  our  heads,  he 
urged  us  strongly  to  follow  the  course  of  the  river,  which  he  said 
would  conduct  us  to  a  lake  in  which  there  were  many  large  fish. 
There,  he  said,  were  many  people;  there  was  no  snow  on  the 
ground;  and  we  might  remain  there  until  the  spring.  From  their 
descriptions,  we  were  enabled  to  judge  that  we  had  encamped  on  the 
upper  water  of  the  Salmon  Trout  river.^^"*  It  is  hardly  necessary  to 


114.  The  route  today,  according  to  Green,  has  taken  them  through  the 
swampy  area  which  is  now  Topaz  Lake  in  Antelope  Valley.  They  are  still  on 
the  waters  of  the  Walker  River,  not  the  "Salmon  Trout"  or  East  Carson,  Green 
believes.  But  gianella,  55,  who  picks  up  the  route  at  this  point,  places  the 
expedition  several  miles  northwest  of  Antelope  Valley,  on  the  East  Carson. 

624 


say  that  our  communication  was  only  by  signs,  as  we  understood 
nothing  of  their  language;  but  they  spoke,  notwithstanding,  rapidly 
and  vehemently,  explaining  what  they  considered  the  folly  of  our 
intentions,  and  urging  us  to  go  down  to  the  lake.  Tah-ve,  a  word 
signifying  snow,  we  very  soon  learned  to  know,  from  its  frequent 
repetition.  I  told  him  that  the  men  and  the  horses  were  strong,  and 
that  we  would  break  a  road  through  the  snow;  and  spreading  before 
him  our  bales  of  scarlet  cloth,  and  trinkets,  showed  him  what  we 
would  give  for  a  guide.  It  was  necessary  to  obtain  one,  if  possible; 
for  I  had  determined  here  to  attempt  the  passage  of  the  mountain. 
Pulling  a  bunch  of  grass  from  the  ground,  after  a  short  discussion 
among  themselves,  the  old  man  made  us  comprehend,  that  if  we 
could  break  through  the  snow,  at  the  end  of  three  days  we  would 
come  down  upon  grass,  which  he  showed  us  would  be  about  six 
inches  high,  and  where  the  ground  was  entirely  free.  So  far,  he  said, 
he  had  been  in  hunting  for  elk;  but  beyond  that,  (and  he  closed  his 
eyes)  he  had  seen  nothing;  but  there  was  one  among  them  who  had 
been  to  the  whites,  and,  going  out  of  the  lodge,  he  returned  with  a 
young  man  of  very  intelligent  appearance.  Here,  said  he,  is  a  young 
man  who  has  seen  the  whites  with  his  own  eyes;  and  he  swore,  first 
by  the  sky,  and  then  by  the  ground,  that  what  he  said  was  true.  With 
a  large  present  of  goods,  we  prevailed  upon  this  young  man  to  be 
our  guide,  and  he  acquired  among  us  the  name  Melo — a  word  sig- 
nifying friend,  which  they  used  very  frequently.  He  was  thinly  clad, 
and  nearly  barefoot;  his  moccasins  being  about  worn  out.  We  gave 
him  skins  to  make  a  new  pair,  and  to  enable  him  to  perform  his  un- 
dertaking to  us.  The  Indians  remained  in  the  camp  during  the  night, 
and  we  kept  the  guide  and  two  others  to  sleep  in  the  lodge  with  us — 
Carson  lying  across  the  door,  and  having  made  them  comprehend 

It  seems  superfluous  in  an  edition  of  this  kind  to  present  the  detailed  notes 
needed  to  set  forth,  and  perhaps  to  reconcile,  the  two  versions  of  the  route  as 
seen  by  Green  and  (lianella.  This  is  a  task  for  historians  of  the  region  who 
like  to  climb.  Green's  route,  for  example,  passes  north  of  Red  Lake  and 
Gianella's  passes  south  of  it.  Green  proposes  that  JCF  viewed  Lake  Tahoe 
from  Stevens  Peak;  Gianella  says  it  was  Red  Lake  Peak.  Only  the  most  avid 
reader  of  the  Siena  Club  Bulletin  can  ponder  all  these  speculations  with 
complete  interest.  Since  (lianella's  observations  are  published  and  readily 
available,  and  since  our  correspondence  with  Green  does  not  give  us  a  clear 
picture  of  his  views  on  the  actual  crossing  of  the  summit  of  the  Sierra,  we 
shall  annotate  mainly  from  Gianella.  We  regret  that  an  injury  cut  short  Mr. 
Green's  correspondence  with  us  and  that  publication  could  not  await  his  re- 
covery. 

625 


the  use  of  our  fire  arms.  The  snow,  which  had  intermitted  in  the 
evening,  commenced  falhng  again  in  the  course  of  the  night,  and  it 
snowed  steadily  all  day.  In  the  morning  I  acquainted  the  men  with 
my  decision,  and  explained  to  them  that  necessity  required  us  to 
make  a  great  effort  to  clear  the  mountains.  I  reminded  them  of  the 
beautiful  valley  of  the  Sacramento,  with  which  they  were  familiar 
from  the  descriptions  of  Carson,  who  had  been  there  some  fifteen 
years  ago,  and  who,  in  our  late  privations,  had  delighted  us  in  speak- 
ing of  its  rich  pastures  and  abounding  game,  and  drew  a  vivid  con- 
trast between  its  summer  chmate,  less  than  a  hundred  miles  distant, 
and  the  falling  snow  around  us.  I  informed  them  (and  long  experi- 
ence had  given  them  confidence  in  my  observations  and  good  instru- 
ments) that  almost  directly  west,  and  only  about  70  miles  distant, 
was  the  great  farming  establishment  of  Captain  [John  Augustus] 
Sutter — a  gentleman  who  had  formerly  lived  in  Missouri,  and,  emi- 
grating to  this  country,  had  become  the  possessor  of  a  principality.  I 
assured  them  that,  from  the  heights  of  the  mountain  before  us,  we 
should  doubtless  see  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento  river,  and  with  one 
effort  place  ourselves  again  in  the  midst  of  plenty.  The  people  re- 
ceived this  decision  with  the  cheerful  obedience  which  has  always 
characterized  them;  and  the  day  was  immediately  devoted  to  the 
preparations  necessary  to  enable  us  to  carry  it  into  effect.  Leggings, 
moccasins,  clothing — all  were  put  into  the  best  state  to  resist  the 
cold.  Our  guide  was  not  neglected.  Extremity  of  suffering  might 
make  him  desert ;  we  therefore  did  the  best  we  could  for  him.  Leg- 
gings, moccasins,  some  articles  of  clothing,  and  a  large  green  blan- 
ket, in  addition  to  the  blue  and  scarlet  cloth,  were  lavished  upon 
him,  and  to  his  great  and  evident  contentment.  He  arrayed  himself 
in  all  his  colors;  and,  clad  in  green,  blue,  and  scarlet,  he  made  a  gay- 
looking  Indian;  and,  with  his  various  presents,  was  probably 
richer  and  better  clothed  than  any  of  his  tribe  had  ever  been  before. 
I  have  already  said  that  our  provisions  were  very  low;  we  had 
neither  tallow  nor  grease  of  any  kind  remaining,  and  the  want  of  salt 
became  one  of  our  greatest  privations.  The  poor  dog  which  had  been 
found  in  the  Bear  river  valley,  and  which  had  been  a  compagnon  de 
voyage  ever  since,  had  now  become  fat,  and  the  mess  to  which  it 
belonged  requested  permission  to  kill  it.  Leave  was  granted.  Spread 
out  on  the  snow,  the  meat  looked  very  good ;  and  it  made  a  strength- 
ening meal  for  the  greater  part  of  the  camp.  Indians  brought  in  two 
or  three  rabbits  during  the  day,  which  were  purchased  from  them. 

626 


The  river  was  40  to  70  feet  wide,  and  now  entirely  frozen  over.  It 
was  wooded  with  large  cottonwood,  willow,  and  grain  de  boeuj.  By 
observation,  the  latitude  of  this  encampment  was  38°  37'  18". 

February  2.— It  had  ceased  snowing,  and  this  morning  the  lower 
air  was  clear  and  frosty;  and  six  or  seven  thousand  feet  above,  the 
peaks  of  the  Sierra  now  and  then  appeared  among  the  rolling 
clouds,  which  were  rapidly  dispersing  before  the  sun.  Our  Indian 
shook  his  head  as  he  pointed  to  the  icy  pinnacles,  shooting  high  up 
into  the  sky,  and  seeming  almost  immediately  above  us.  Crossing 
the  river  on  the  ice,  and  leaving  it  immediately,  we  commenced  the 
ascent  of  the  mountain  along  the  vally  of  a  tributary  stream.  The 
people  were  unusually  silent;  for  every  man  knew  that  our  enter- 
prise was  hazardous,  and  the  issue  doubtful. 

The  snow  deepened  rapidly,  and  it  soon  became  necessary  to 
break  a  road.  For  this  service,  a  party  of  ten  was  formed,  mounted 
on  the  strongest  horses;  each  man  in  succession  opening  the  road 
on  foot,  or  on  horseback,  until  himself  and  his  horse  became  fa- 
tigued when  he  stepped  aside;  and,  the  remaining  number  passing 
ahead,  he  took  his  station  in  the  rear.  Leaving  this  stream,  and  pur- 
suing a  very  direct  course,  we  passed  over  an  intervening  ridge  to 
the  river  we  had  left.  On  the  way  we  passed  two  low  huts  entirely 
covered  with  snow,  which  might  very  easily  have  escaped  observa- 
tion. A  family  was  living  in  each;  and  the  only  trail  I  saw  in  the 
neighborhood  was  from  the  door  hole  to  a  nut-pine  tree  near,  which 
supplied  them  with  food  and  fuel.  We  found  two  similar  huts  on 
the  creek  where  we  next  arrived;  and,  travelling  a  litde  higher  up, 
encamped  on  its  banks  in  about  four  feet  depth  of  snow.  Carson 
found  near,  an  open  hill  side,  where  the  wind  and  the  sun  had 
melted  the  snow,  leaving  exposed  sufficient  bunch  grass  for  the  ani- 
mals to-night. 

The  nut  pines  were  now  giving  way  to  heavy  timber,  and  there 
were  some  immense  pines  on  the  bottom,  around  the  roots  of  which 
the  sun  had  melted  away  the  snow;  and  here  we  made  our  camps 
and  built  huge  fires."^  To-day  we  had  travelled  sixteen  miles,  and 
our  elevation  above  the  sea  was  6,760  feet. 

February  3. — Turning  our  faces  directly  towards  the  main  chain, 


115.  "The  route  was  southwesterly  up  Long  Valley,  and  probably  into 
Diamond  Valley,  then  south  across  the  low  hills  until  they  again  came  upon 
the  East  Carson.  They  went  into  camp  in  the  meadow  where  Markleeville 
Creek  joins  the  river,  about  a  mile  northeast  of  Markleeville"  (gianella,  55). 

627 


we  ascended  an  open  hollow  along  a  small  tributary  to  the  river, 
which,  according  to  the  Indians,  issues  from  a  mountain  to  the 
south.  The  snow  was  so  deep  in  the  hollow,  that  we  were  obliged  to 
travel  along  the  steep  hill  sides,  and  over  spurs,  where  wind  and  sun 
had  in  places  lessened  the  snow,  and  where  the  grass,  which  ap- 
peared to  be  in  good  quality  along  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  was 
exposed.  We  opened  our  road  in  the  same  way  as  yesterday,  but 
made  only  seven  miles;  and  encamped  by  some  springs  at  the  foot 
of  a  high  and  steep  hill,  by  which  the  hollow  ascended  to  another 
basin  in  the  mountain.^^^  The  little  stream  below  was  entirely  buried 
in  snow.  The  springs  were  shaded  by  the  boughs  of  a  lofty  cedar, 
which  here  made  its  first  appearance;  the  usual  height  was  120  to 
130  feet,  and  one  that  was  measured  near  by  was  6  feet  in  diameter. 

There  being  no  grass  exposed  here,  the  horses  were  sent  back  to 
that  which  we  had  seen  a  few  miles  blow.  We  occupied  the  remain- 
der of  the  day  in  beating  down  a  road  to  the  foot  of  the  hill,  a  mile 
or  two  distant;  the  snow  being  beaten  down  when  moist,  in  the 
warm  part  of  the  day,  and  then  hard  frozen  at  night,  made  a  foun- 
dation that  would  bear  the  weight  of  the  animals  the  next  morning. 
During  the  day  several  Indians  joined  us  on  snow  shoes.  These  were 
made  of  a  circular  hoop,  about  a  foot  in  diameter,  the  interior  space 
being  filled  with  an  open  network  of  bark. 

February  4. — I  went  ahead  early  with  two  or  three  men,  each  with 
a  led  horse,  to  break  the  road.  We  were  obliged  to  abandon  the 
hollow  entirely,  and  work  along  the  mountain  side,  which  was  very 
steep,  and  the  snow  covered  with  an  icy  crust.  We  cut  a  footing  as 
we  advanced,  and  trampled  a  road  through  for  the  animals;  but  oc- 
casionally one  plunged  outside  the  trail,  and  slided  along  the  field  to 
the  bottom,  a  hundred  yards  below.  Late  in  the  day  we  reached  an- 
other bench  in  the  hollow,  where,  in  summer,  the  stream  passed 
over  a  small  precipice.  Here  was  a  short  distance  of  dividing  ground 
between  the  two  ridges,  and  beyond  an  open  basin  [Faith  Valley], 
some  ten  miles  across,  whose  bottom  presented  a  field  of  snow.  At 
the  further  or  western  side  rose  the  middle  crest  of  the  mountain,  a 
dark-looking  ridge  of  volcanic  rock  [Elephant's  Back]. 

The  summit  line  presented  a  range  of  naked  peaks,  apparently 


116.  The  route  was  up  Markleeville  Creek  and  the  camp  at  Grovers 
Springs.  "The  difficulty  of  ascending  the  steep  mountain  was  to  detain  the 
main  party  at  Grovers  Springs  until  February  16"  (gianella,  56). 

628 


destitute  of  snow  and  vegetation;  but  below,  the  face  of  the  whole 
country  was  covered  with  timber  of  extraordinary  size.  Annexed 
you  are  presented  with  a  view  of  this  ridge  from  a  camp  on  the 
western  side  of  the  basin  [p.  636]. 

Towards  a  pass  which  the  guide  indicated  here,  we  attempted  in 
the  afternoon  to  force  a  road ;  but  after  a  laborious  plunging  through 
two  or  three  hundred  yards,  our  best  horses  gave  out,  entirely  re- 
fusing to  make  any  further  effort;  and,  for  the  time,  we  were 
brought  to  a  stand.  The  guide  informed  us  that  we  were  entering  the 
deep  snow,  and  here  began  the  difficulties  of  the  mountain;  and  to 
him,  and  almost  to  all,  our  enterprise  seemed  hopeless.  I  returned 
a  short  distance  back,  to  the  break  in  the  hollow,  where  I  met  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick."' 

The  camp  had  been  all  the  day  occupied  in  endeavoring  to  ascend 
the  hill,  but  only  the  best  horses  had  succeeded.  The  animals,  gen- 
erally, not  having  sufficient  strength  to  bring  themselves  up  without 
the  packs;  and  all  the  line  of  road  between  this  and  the  springs  was 
strewed  with  camp  stores  and  equipage,  and  horses  floundering  in 
snow.  I  therefore  immediately  encamped  on  the  ground  with  my 
own  mess,  which  was  in  advance,  and  directed  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  to 
encamp  at  the  springs,  and  send  all  the  animals,  in  charge  of  Tabeau, 
with  a  strong  guard,  back  to  the  place  where  they  had  been  pastured 
the  night  before.  Here  was  a  small  spot  of  level  ground,  protected 
on  one  side  by  the  mountain,  and  on  the  other  sheltered  by  a  little 
ridge  of  rock.  It  was  an  open  grove  of  pines,  which  assimilated  in 
size  to  the  grandeur  of  the  mountain,  being  frequently  six  feet  in 
diameter. 

To-night  we  had  no  shelter,  but  we  made  a  large  fire  around  the 
trunk  of  one  of  the  huge  pines;  and  covering  the  snow  with  small 
boughs,  on  which  we  spread  our  blankets,  soon  made  ourselves  com- 
fortable. The  night  was  very  bright  and  clear,  though  the  thermom- 
eter was  only  at  10°.  A  strong  wind,  which  sprang  up  at  sundown, 
made  it  intensely  cold;  and  this  was  one  of  the  bitterest  nights  dur- 
ing the  journey. 

Two  Indians  joined  our  party  here;  and  one  of  them,  an  old  man, 
immediately  began  to  harangue  us,  saying  that  ourselves  and  ani- 


117.  Cjoing  up  Markleeville  Creek  and  passing  along  Charity  Valley,  JCF 
camped  on  the  east  side  of  Faith  Valley  and  but  a  few  miles  from  the  main 
ridge  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 

629 


mals  would  perish  in  the  snow;  and  that  if  we  would  go  back,  he 
would  show  us  another  and  a  better  way  across  the  mountain.  He 
spoke  in  a  very  loud  voice,  and  there  was  a  singular  repetition  of 
phrases  and  arrangement  of  words,  which  rendered  his  speech  strik- 
ing, and  not  unmusical. 

We  had  now  begun  to  understand  some  words,  and,  with  the  aid 
of  signs,  easily  comprehended  the  old  man's  simple  ideas.  "Rock 
upon  rock — rock  upon  rock — snow  upon  snow — snow  upon  snow," 
said  he;  "even  if  you  get  over  the  snow,  you  will  not  be  able  to  get 
down  from  the  mountains."  He  made  us  a  sign  of  precipices,  and 
showed  us  how  the  feet  of  the  horses  would  slip,  and  throw  them 
off  from  the  narrow  trails  which  led  along  their  sides.  Our  Chinook, 
who  comprehended  even  more  readily  than  ourselves,  and  believed 
our  situation  hopeless,  covered  his  head  with  his  blanket,  and  began 
to  weep  and  lament.  "I  wanted  to  see  the  whites,"  said  he;  "I  came 
away  from  my  own  people  to  see  the  whites,  and  I  wouldn't  care  to 
die  among  them;  but  here" — and  he  looked  around  into  the  cold 
night  and  gloomy  forest,  and,  drawing  his  blanket  over  his  head, 
began  again  to  lament. 

Seated  around  the  tree,  the  fire  illuminating  the  rocks  and  the  tall 
bolls  of  the  pines  round  about,  and  the  old  Indian  haranguing,  we 
presented  a  group  of  very  serious  faces. 

February  5. — The  night  had  been  too  cold  to  sleep,  and  we  were 
up  very  early.  Our  guide  was  standing  by  the  fire  with  all  his  finery 
on ;  and  seeing  him  shiver  in  the  cold,  I  threw  on  his  shoulders  one 
of  my  blankets.  We  missed  him  a  few  minutes  afterwards,  and  never 
saw  him  again.  He  had  deserted.  His  bad  faith  and  treachery  were  in 
perfect  keeping  with  the  estimate  of  Indian  character,  which  a  long 
intercourse  with  this  people  had  gradually  forced  upon  my  mind. 

While  a  portion  of  the  camp  were  occupied  in  bringing  up  the 
baggage  to  this  point,  the  remainder  were  busied  in  making  sledges 
and  snow  shoes.  I  had  determined  to  explore  the  mountain  ahead, 
and  the  sledges  were  to  be  used  in  transporting  the  baggage. 

The  mountains  here  consisted  wholly  of  a  white  micaceous  gran- 
ite. 

The  day  was  perfectly  clear,  and,  while  the  sun  was  in  the  sky, 
warm  and  pleasant. 

By  observation,  our  latitude  was  38°  42' 26";  and  elevation,  by  the 
boiling  point,  7,400  feet. 


630 


February  6. — Accompanied  by  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  I  sat  out  to-day 
with  a  reconnoitring  party,  on  snow  shoes.  We  marched  all  in  single 
file,  trampling  the  snow  as  heavily  as  we  could.  Crossing  the  open 
basin,  in  a  march  of  about  ten  miles  we  reached  the  top  of  one  of 
the  peaks,  to  the  left  of  the  pass  indicated  by  our  guide.  Far  below 
us,  dimmed  by  the  distance,  was  a  large  snowless  valley,  bounded  on 
the  western  side,  at  the  distance  of  about  a  hundred  miles,  by  a  low 
range  of  mountains,  which  Carson  recognised  with  delight  as  the 
mountains  bordering  the  coast.  "There,"  said  he,  "is  the  little  moun- 
tain— it  is  15  years  ago  since  I  saw  it;  but  I  am  just  as  sure  as  if  I  had 
seen  it  yesterday."^^^  Between  us,  then,  and  this  low  coast  range, 
was  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento;  and  no  one  who  had  not  ac- 
companied us  through  the  incidents  of  our  life  for  the  last  few 
months  could  realize  the  delight  with  which  at  last  we  looked  down 
upon  it.  At  the  distance  of  apparently  30  miles  beyond  us  were  dis- 
tinguished spots  of  prairie;  and  a  dark  line,  which  could  be  traced 
with  the  glass,  was  imagined  to  be  the  course  of  the  river;  but  we 
were  evidently  at  a  great  height  above  the  valley,  and  between  us 
and  the  plains  extended  miles  of  snowy  fields  and  broken  ridges  of 
pine-covered  mountains. 

It  was  late  in  the  day  when  we  turned  towards  the  camp;  and  it 
grew  rapidly  cold  as  it  drew  towards  night.  One  of  the  men  became 
fatigued,  and  his  feet  began  to  freeze,  and,  building  a  fire  in  the 
trunk  of  a  dry  old  cedar,  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  remained  with  him  until 
his  clothes  could  be  dried,  and  he  was  in  a  condition  to  come  on. 
After  a  day's  march  of  20  miles,  we  straggled  into  camp,  one  after 
another,  at  night  fall;  the  greater  number  excessively  fatigued,  only 
two  of  the  party  having  ever  travelled  on  snow  shoes  before. 

All  our  energies  were  now  directed  to  getting  our  animals  across 
the  snow;  and  it  was  supposed  that,  after  all  the  baggage  had  been 
drawn  with  the  sleighs  over  the  trail  we  had  made,  it  would  be 
sufficiently  hard  to  bear  our  animals.  At  several  places,  between  this 
point  and  the  ridge,  we  had  discovered  some  grassy  spots,  where  the 
wind  and  sun  had  dispersed  the  snow  from  the  sides  of  the  hills, 
and  these  were  to  form  resting  places  to  support  the  animals  for  a 
night  in  their  passage  across.  On  our  way  across,  we  had  set  on  fire 


118.  Mount  Diablo.  Carson  had  been  in  California  in  1829-30  with  a  party 
of  trappers  under  the  leadership  of  Ewing  Young. 


631 


several  broken  stumps,  and  dried  trees,  to  melt  holes  in  the  snow  for 
the  camps.  Its  general  depth  was  5  feet;  but  we  passed  over  places 
where  it  was  20  feet  deep,  as  shown  by  the  trees. 

With  one  party  drawing  sleighs  loaded  with  baggage,  I  advanced 
to-day  [7  Feb.]  about  four  miles  along  the  trail,  and  encamped  at  the 
first  grassy  spot,  where  we  expected  to  bring  our  horses.  Mr.  Fitz- 
patrick,  with  another  party  remained  behind,  to  form  an  intermedi- 
ate station  between  us  and  the  animals. 

February  8. — The  night  has  been  extremely  cold;  but  perfectly 
still,  and  beautifully  clear.  Before  the  sun  appeared  this  morning,  the 
thermometer  was  3°  below  zero;  1°  higher,  when  his  rays  struck  the 
lofty  peaks;  and  0°  when  they  reached  our  camp. 

Scenery  and  weather,  combined,  must  render  these  mountains 
beautiful  in  summer;  the  purity  and  deep-blue  color  of  the  sky  are 
singularly  beautiful ;  the  days  are  sunny  and  bright,  and  even  warm 
in  the  noon  hours;  and  if  we  could  be  free  from  the  many  anxieties 
that  oppress  us,  even  now  we  would  be  delighted  here;  but  our  pro- 
visions are  getting  fearfully  scant.  Sleighs  arrived  with  baggage 
about  10  o'clock;  and  leaving  a  portion  of  it  here,  we  continued  on 
for  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  encamped  at  the  foot  of  a  long  hill  on  this 
side  of  the  open  bottom. 

Bernier  and  Godey,  who  yesterday  morning  had  been  sent  to 
ascend  a  higher  peak,  got  in,  hungry  and  fatigued.^^''  They  con- 
firmed what  we  had  already  seen.  Two  other  sleighs  arrived  in  the 
afternoon;  and  the  men  being  fatigued,  I  gave  them  all  tea  and 
sugar.  Snow  clouds  began  to  rise  in  the  SSW.;  and,  apprehensive  of 
a  storm,  which  would  destroy  our  road,  I  sent  the  people  back  to  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick,  with  directions  to  send  for  the  animals  in  the  morning. 
With  me  remained  Mr.  Preuss,  Mr.  Talbot,  and  Carson,  with  Jacob. 

Elevation  of  the  camp,  by  the  boiling  point,  is  7,920  feet. 

February  9. — During  the  night  the  weather  changed,  the  wind 
rising  to  a  gale,  and  commencing  to  snow  before  daylight;  before 
morning  the  trail  was  covered.  We  remained  quiet  in  camp  all  day, 
in  the  course  of  which  the  weather  improved.  Four  sleighs  arrived 


119.  Bernier  and  Godey  probably  climbed  a  peak  on  the  ridge  rising  above 
Winnemucca  Lake,  a  peak  one  mile  south  of  and  300  feet  higher  than  Ele- 
phant's Back.  GiANELLA,  58,  rejects  Farquhar's  suggestion  that  the  men  may 
have  climbed  Round  Top,  Red  Lake  Peak,  or  Stevens  Peak,  all  over  10,000 
feet  in  elevation.  Had  this  been  the  case  they  would  have  been  able  to  see  Lake 
Tahoe,  a  discovery  which  did  not  occur  until  six  days  later. 

632 


toward  evening,  with  the  bedding  of  the  men.  We  suflfer  much  from 
the  want  of  salt;  and  all  the  men  are  becoming  weak  from  insuf- 
ficient food. 

February  10. — Taplin  was  sent  back  with  a  few  men  to  assist  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick;  and  continuing  on  with  three  sleighs  carrying  a  part  of 
the  baggage,  we  had  the  satisfaction  to  encamp  within  two  and  a 
half  miles  of  the  head  of  the  hollow,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  last 
mountain  ridge.^^*^  Here  two  large  trees  had  been  set  on  fire,  and  in 
the  holes,  where  the  snow  has  been  melted  away,  we  found  a  com- 
fortable camp. 

The  wind  kept  the  air  filled  with  snow  during  the  day;  the  sky 
was  very  dark  in  the  southwest,  though  elsewhere  very  clear.  The 
forest  here  has  a  noble  appearance;  the  tall  cedar^"^  is  abundant;  its 
greatest  height  being  130  feet,  and  circumference  20,  three  or  four 
feet  above  the  ground;  and  here  I  see  for  the  first  time  the  white 
pine,^^^  of  which  there  are  some  magnificent  trees.  Hemlock 
spruce^^^  is  among  the  timber,  occasionally  as  large  as  8  feet  in  di- 
ameter four  feet  above  the  ground;  but,  in  ascending,  it  tapers  rap- 
idly to  less  than  one  foot  at  the  height  of  80  feet.  I  have  not  seen  any 
higher  than  130  feet,  and  the  slight  upper  part  is  frequently  broken 
off  by  the  wind.  The  white  spruce^"*  is  frequent;  and  the  red  pine, 
{pinus  Colorado  of  the  Mexicans,) ^^^  which  constitutes  the  beautiful 
forest  along  the  flanks  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  to  the  northward,  is 
here  the  principal  tree,  not  attaining  a  greater  height  than  140  feet, 
though  with  sometimes  a  diameter  of  10.  Most  of  these  trees  ap- 
peared to  differ  slightly  from  those  of  the  same  kind  on  the  other 
side  of  the  continent. 

The  elevation  of  the  camp,  by  the  boiling  point,  is  8,050  feet.  We 
are  now  1,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  South  Pass  in  the  Rocky 
mountains;  and  still  we  are  not  done  ascending.  The  top  of  a  flat 


120.  The  party  was  at  the  foot  of  Elephant's  Back,  on  the  western  side  of 
Faith  Valley,  probably  near  Forestdale  Creek  (gianella,  58).  smith,  144,  and 
DELLENBAUGH,  218,  both  place  the  camp  at  the  head  of  Hope  Valley. 

121.  Libocedrus  decurrens  Torr.,  incense  cedar,  later  described  from  the 
JCF  collection  at  the  headwaters  of  the  Sacramento  on  the  third  expedition, 
1846,  and  illustrated  with  a  handsome  plate  in  Plantae  Fremontiance  (1853). 

122.  Pinus  lambertiana  Dougl.,  sugar  pine. 

123.  Tsuga  mcrtensiana  (Bong.)  Carr.,  mountain  hemlock. 

124.  Abies  concolor  (Cord.  &  Glend.)  Lindl.,  white  fir. 

125.  Pinus  ponderosa,  Dougl.,  yellow  or  ponderosa  pine.  JCF's  vernacular 
name  and  the  Spanish  folk  name  allude  to  the  reddish  bark  plates. 

633 


ridge  near  was  bare  of  snow,  and  very  well  sprinkled  with  bunch 
grass,  sufficient  to  pasture  the  animals  two  or  three  days;  and  this 
was  to  be  their  main  point  of  support.  This  ridge  is  composed  of  a 
compact  trap,  or  basalt,  of  a  columnar  structure;  over  the  surface 
are  scattered  large  boulders  of  porous  trap.  The  hills  are  in  many 
places  entirely  covered  with  small  fragments  of  volcanic  rock. 

Putting  on  our  snow  shoes,  we  spent  the  afternoon  in  exploring  a 
road  ahead.  The  glare  of  the  snow,  combined  with  great  fatigue, 
had  rendered  many  of  the  people  nearly  blind;  but  we  were  for- 
tunate in  having  some  black  silk  handkerchiefs,  which,  worn  as 
veils,  very  much  relieved  the  eye. 

February  11, — High  wind  continued,  and  our  trail  this  morning 
was  nearly  invisible — here  and  there  indicated  by  a  little  ridge  of 
snow.  Our  situation  became  tiresome  and  dreary,  requiring  a  strong 
exercise  of  patience  and  resolution. 

In  the  evening  I  received  a  message  from  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  ac- 
quainting me  with  the  utter  failure  of  his  attempt  to  get  our  mules  and 
horses  over  the  snow — the  half-hidden  trail  had  proved  entirely  too 
slight  to  support  them,  and  they  had  broken  through,  and  were 
plunging  about  or  lying  half  buried  in  snow.  He  was  occupied  in 
endeavoring  to  get  them  back  to  his  camp ;  and  in  the  mean  time  sent 
to  me  for  further  instructions.  I  wrote  to  him  to  send  the  animals 
immediately  back  to  their  old  pastures;  and,  after  having  made 
mauls  and  shovels,  turn  in  all  the  strength  of  his  party  to  open  and 
beat  a  road  through  the  snow,  strengthening  it  with  branches  and 
boughs  of  the  pines. 

February  12. — We  made  mauls,  and  worked  hard  at  our  end  of 
the  road  all  the  day.  The  wind  was  high,  but  the  sun  bright,  and 
the  snow  thawing.  We  worked  down  the  face  of  the  hill,  to  meet 
the  people  at  the  other  end.  Towards  sundown  it  began  to  grow 
cold,  and  we  shouldered  our  mauls,  and  trudged  back  to  camp. 

February  13. — We  continued  to  labor  on  the  road;  and  in  the 
course  of  the  day  had  the  satisfaction  to  see  the  people  working 
down  the  face  of  the  opposite  hill,  about  three  miles  distant.  During 
the  morning  we  had  the  pleasure  of  a  visit  from  Mr.  Fitzpatrick, 
with  the  information  that  all  was  going  on  well.  A  party  of  Indians 
had  passed  on  snow  shoes,  who  said  they  were  going  to  the  western 
side  of  the  mountain  after  fish.  This  was  an  indication  that  the 
salmon  were  coming  up  the  streams;  and  we  could  hardly  restrain 


634 


our  impatience  as  we  thought  of  them,  and  worked  with  increased 
vigor. 

The  meat  train  did  not  arrive  this  evening,  and  I  gave  Godey 
leave  to  kill  our  little  dog,  (Tlamath,)  which  he  prepared  in  Indian 
fashion ;  scorching  of?  the  hair,  and  washing  the  skin  with  soap  and 
snow,  and  then  cutting  it  up  into  pieces,  which  were  laid  on  the 
snow.  Shortly  afterwards,  the  sleigh  arrived  with  a  supply  of  horse 
meat;  and  we  had  to-night  an  extraordinary  dinner — pea  soup,  mule, 
and  dog. 

February  14. — Annexed  [p.  636]  is  a  view  of  the  dividing  ridge  of 
the  Sierra,  taken  from  this  encampment.  With  Mr.  Preuss,  I  as- 
cended to-day  the  highest  peak  to  the  right;  from  which  we  had  a 
beautiful  view  of  a  mountain  lake  at  our  feet,  about  fifteen  miles  in 
length,  and  so  entirely  surrounded  by  mountains  that  we  could  not 
discover  an  outlet.^^^  We  had  taken  with  us  a  glass;  but,  though  we 
enjoyed  an  extended  view,  the  valley  was  half  hidden  in  mist,  as 
when  we  had  seen  it  before.  Snow  could  be  distinguished  on  the 
higher  parts  of  the  coast  mountains;  eastward,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 


126.  The  lake  was  certainly  Tahoe,  but  the  peak  from  which  JCF  viewed  it 
is  far  from  certain.  Stevens  Peak  is  the  choice  of  smith,  145,  and  farquhar, 
83,  and  it  has  the  advantage  of  being  closer  and  perhaps  providing  a  more 
unobstructed  view  of  the  lake  than  Gianella's  choice — which  is  Red  Lake 
Peak.  He  explains  that  what  JCF  called  "volcanic  conglomerate"  is  now  des- 
ignated volcanic  agglomerate,  or  breccia,  of  the  Sierran  andesites.  "The  vol- 
canic agglomerate  lies  on  the  surface  eroded  across  the  edges  of  the  steeply 
dipping,  metamorphosed,  Mesozoic  rocks.  These  old  .  .  .  rocks  have  acquired 
a  reddish  cast,  and  this  color  has  influenced  the  naming  of  the  peak,  as  well  as 
the  beautiful  little  [Red]  lake  lying  in  the  glaciated  canyon  at  the  southern 
base  of  the  mountain"  (gianella,  59).  The  large  lake  which  JCF  sighted  was 
called  Mountain  Lake  on  the  maps  in  the  early  editions  of  his  Report. 
Later  he  named  it  Lake  Bonpland  in  honor  of  Aime  Bonpland,  the  French 
botanist  who  accompanied  Baron  Alexander  von  Humboldt  to  South  America. 
It  is  so  labeled  on  Preuss'  map  of  1848  accompanying  the  Geographical  Mem- 
oir. In  the  1850s,  the  friends  of  California's  governor  John  Bigler  succeeded  in 
naming  the  lake  in  his  honor.  But  during  the  Civil  War,  Unionists  in  Cali- 
fornia sponsored  a  move  to  restore  to  the  lake  its  Washo  Indian  name,  under- 
stood to  be  Tahoe.  This  became  the  popular  name  but  was  not  made  official 
until  1945  (gudde  fl]). 

The  sketch  made  by  Preuss  (p.  636)  while  at  the  "Long  Camp"  is  used  by 
Gianella  to  support  his  assertion  that  JCF  climbed  Red  Lake  Peak.  In  re- 
producing the  sketch  he  gives  it  this  caption:  "Summit  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
Alpine  County,  California.  To  the  left  is  Elephant's  Back.  On  the  right  is  Red 
Lake  Peak  rising  above  the  canyon  leading  up  to  Carson  Pass  .  .  ."  (gia- 
nella, 60). 


635 


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636 


extend,  it  ranged  over  a  terrible  mass  of  broken  snowy  mountains, 
fading  off  blue  in  the  distance.  The  rock  composing  the  summit 
consists  of  a  very  coarse  dark  volcanic  conglomerate;  the  lower  parts 
appeared  to  be  of  a  slaty  structure.  The  highest  trees  were  a  few 
scattering  cedars  and  aspens.  From  the  immediate  foot  of  the  peak, 
we  were  two  hours  in  reaching  the  summit,  and  one  hour  and  a 
quarter  in  descending.  The  day  had  been  very  bright,  still,  and  clear, 
and  spring  seems  to  be  advancing  rapidly.  While  the  sun  is  in  the 
sky,  the  snow  melts  rapidly,  and  gushing  springs  cover  the  face  of 
the  mountain  in  all  the  exposed  places;  but  their  surface  freezes 
instantly  with  the  disappearance  of  the  sun. 

I  obtained  to-night  some  observations;  and  the  result  from  these, 
and  others  made  during  our  stay,  gives  for  the  latitude  38°  41' 57", 
longitude  120°  25'  57",  and  rate  of  the  chronometer  25".82. 

February  16. — We  had  succeeded  in  getting  our  animals  safely  to 
the  first  grassy  hill;  and  this  morning  I  started  with  Jacob  on  a  re- 
connoitring expedition  beyond  the  mountain.  We  travelled  along  the 
crests  of  narrow  ridges,  extending  down  from  the  mountain  in  the 
direction  of  the  valley,  from  which  the  snow  was  fast  melting  away. 
On  the  open  spots  was  tolerably  good  grass;  and  I  judged  we  should 
succeed  in  getting  the  camp  down  by  way  of  these.  Towards  sun- 
down we  discovered  some  icy  spots  in  a  deep  hollow;  and,  descend- 
ing the  mountain,  we  encamped  on  the  head  water  of  a  little  creek, 
where  at  last  the  water  found  its  way  to  the  Pacific. 

The  night  was  clear  and  very  long.  We  heard  the  cries  of  some 
wild  animals,  which  had  been  attracted  by  our  fire,  and  a  flock  of 
geese  passed  over  during  the  night.  Even  these  strange  sounds  had 
something  pleasant  to  our  senses  in  this  region  of  silence  and  deso- 
lation. 

We  started  again  early  in  the  morning.  The  creek  acquired  a  reg- 
ular breadth  of  about  20  feet,  and  we  soon  began  to  hear  the  rushing 
of  the  water  below  the  ice  surface,  over  which  we  travelled  to  avoid 
the  snow;  a  few  miles  below  we  broke  through,  where  the  water 
was  several  feet  deep,  and  halted  to  make  a  fire  and  dry  our  clothes. 
We  continued  a  few  miles  farther,  walking  being  very  laborious 
without  snow  shoes. 

I  was  now  perfectly  satisfied  that  we  had  struck  the  stream  on 
which  Mr.  Sutter  lived;  and,  turning  about,  made  a  hard  push,  and 
reached  the  camp  at  dark.  Here  we  had  the  pleasure  to  find  all  the 
remaining  animals,  57  in  number,  safely  arrived  at  the  grassy  hill 

637 


near  the  camp;  and  here,  also,  we  were  agreeably  surprised  with  the 
sight  of  an  abundance  of  salt.  Some  of  the  horse  guard  had  gone  to 
a  neighboring  hut  for  pine  nuts,  and  discovered  unexpectedly  a  large 
cake  of  very  white  fine-grained  salt,  which  the  Indians  told  them 
they  had  brought  from  the  other  side  of  the  mountain;  they  used 
it  to  eat  with  their  pine  nuts,  and  readily  sold  it  for  goods. 

On  the  19th,  the  people  were  occupied  in  making  a  road  and 
bringing  up  the  baggage;  and,  on  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day, 
February  20,  1844,  we  encamped  with  the  animals  and  all  the  ma- 
teriel of  the  camp,  on  the  summit  of  the  Pass  in  the  dividing  ridge, 
1,000  miles  by  our  travelled  road  from  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia.^^^ 

The  people,  who  had  not  yet  been  to  this  point,  climbed  the  neigh- 
boring peak  to  enjoy  a  look  at  the  valley. 

The  temperature  of  boiling  water  gave  for  the  elevation  of  the  en- 
campment 9,338  feet  above  the  sea. 

This  was  2,000  feet  higher  than  the  South  Pass  in  the  Rocky 
mountains,  and  several  peaks  in  view  rose  several  thousand  feet  still 
higher.  Thus,  at  the  extremity  of  the  continent,  and  near  the  coast, 
the  phenomenon  was  seen  of  a  range  of  mountains  still  higher  than 
the  great  Rocky  mountains  themselves.  This  extraordinary  fact  ac- 
counts for  the  Great  Basin,  and  shows  that  there  must  be  a  system 
of  small  lakes  and  rivers  here  scattered  over  a  flat  country,  and  which 
the  extended  and  lofty  range  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  prevents  from 
escaping  into  the  Pacific  ocean.  Latitude  38°  44';  longitude  120°  28'. 

Thus  this  Pass  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  which  so  well  deserves  its 
name  of  snowy  mountain,  is  eleven  degrees  west  and  about  four 
degrees  south  of  the  South  Pass. 

February  21. — We  now  considered  ourselves  victorious  over  the 
mountain;  having  only  the  descent  before  us,  and  the  valley  under 
our  eyes,  we  felt  strong  hope  that  we  should  force  our  way  down. 
But  this  was  a  case  in  which  the  descent  was  not  facile.  Still  deep 
fields  of  snow  lay  between,  and  there  was  a  large  intervening  space 
of  rough-looking  mountains,  through  which  we  had  yet  to  wind  our 
way.  Carson  roused  me  this  morning  with  an  early  fire,  and  we 
were  all  up  long  before  day,  in  order  to  pass  the  snow  fields  before 
the  sun  should  render  the  crust  soft.  We  enjoyed  this  morning  a 
scene,  at  sunrise,  which  even  here  was  unusually  glorious  and  beauti- 


127.  It    is    now   generally   conceded    that    the    party    traveled    not    through 
Carson  Pass,  but  an  unidentified  and  unnamed  pass  lying  farther  south. 

638 


ful.  Immediately  above  the  eastern  mountains  was  repeated  a  cloud- 
formed  mass  of  purple  ranges,  bordered  with  bright  yellow  gold; 
the  peaks  shot  up  into  a  narrow  line  of  crimson  cloud,  above  which 
the  air  was  filled  with  a  greenish  orange;  and  over  all  was  the  singu- 
lar beauty  of  the  blue  sky.  Passing  along  a  ridge  which  commanded 
the  lake  on  our  right,  of  which  we  began  to  discover  an  outlet 
through  a  chasm  on  the  west,  we  passed  over  alternating  open 
ground  and  hard-crusted  snow  fields  which  supported  the  animals, 
and  encamped  on  the  ridge  after  a  journey  of  6  miles.  The  grass  was 
better  than  we  had  yet  seen,  and  we  were  encamped  in  a  clump 
of  trees  twenty  or  thirty  feet  high,  resembling  white  pine.  With  the 
exception  of  these  small  clumps,  the  ridges  were  bare;  and,  where 
the  snow  found  the  support  of  the  trees,  the  wind  had  blown  it  up 
into  banks  ten  or  fifteen  feet  high.  It  required  much  care  to  hunt  out 
a  practicable  way,  as  the  most  open  places  frequently  led  to  im- 
passable banks.^^^ 

We  had  hard  and  doubtful  labor  yet  before  us,  as  the  snow  ap- 
peared to  be  heavier  where  the  timber  began  further  down,  with  few 
open  spots.  Ascending  a  height,  we  traced  out  the  best  line  we  could 
discover  for  the  next  day's  march,  and  had  at  least  the  consolation 
to  see  that  the  mountain  descended  rapidly.  The  day  had  been  one 
of  April ;  gusty,  with  a  few  occasional  flakes  of  snow ;  which,  in  the 
afternoon,  enveloped  the  upper  mountain  in  clouds.  We  watched 
them  anxiously,  as  now  we  dreaded  a  snow  storm.  Shortly  after- 
wards we  heard  the  roll  of  thunder,  and,  looking  towards  the  valley, 
found  it  all  enveloped  in  a  thunder  storm.  For  us,  as  connected  with 
the  idea  of  summer,  it  had  a  singular  charm;  and  we  watched  its 
progress  with  excited  feelings  until  nearly  sunset,  when  the  sky 
cleared  off  brightly,  and  we  saw  a  shining  line  of  water  directing 
its  course  towards  another,  a  broader  and  larger  sheet.  We  knew 
that  these  could  be  no  other  than  the  Sacramento  and  the  bay  of 
San  Francisco;  but,  after  our  long  wandering  in  the  rugged  moun- 


128.  The  crossing  was  a  trying  experience  for  the  animals,  preuss,  111, 
says  that  of  the  104  horses  and  mules  with  the  party  when  it  left  the  Colum- 
bia, only  fifty-three  had  now  survived.  Actually,  only  thirty-three  reached 
Sutter's  Fort.  The  descent  from  the  summit,  as  described  in  gianella,  62, 
was  northwest  and  down  the  high  ridge  between  Silver  Fork  and  the  head- 
waters of  the  Upper  Truckee  River.  Farther  down,  Strawberry  Creek  was  on 
the  left  and  Sayles  Canyon  on  the  right.  The  expedition  finally  reached  the 
American  River  at  Strawberry  \^alley. 


tains,  where  so  frequently  we  had  met  with  disappointments,  and 
where  the  crossing  of  every  ridge  displayed  some  unknown  lake  or 
river,  we  were  yet  almost  afraid  to  believe  that  we  were  at  last  to 
escape  into  the  genial  country  of  which  we  had  heard  so  many  glow- 
ing descriptions,  and  dreaded  again  to  find  some  vast  interior  lake, 
whose  bitter  waters  would  bring  us  disappointment.  On  the  southern 
shore  of  what  appeared  to  be  the  bay  could  be  traced  the  gleaming 
line  where  entered  another  large  stream;  and  again  the  Buenaven- 
tura rose  up  in  our  minds. 

Carson  had  entered  the  valley  along  the  southern  side  of  the  bay, 
and  remembered  perfectly  to  have  crossed  the  mouth  of  a  very  large 
stream,  which  they  had  been  obliged  to  raft;  but  the  country  then 
was  so  entirely  covered  with  water  from  snow  and  rain,  that  he  had 
been  able  to  form  no  correct  impression  of  watercourses. 

We  had  the  satisfaction  to  know  that  at  least  there  were  people 
below.  Fires  were  lit  up  in  the  valley  just  at  night,  appearing  to  be 
in  answer  to  ours;  and  these  signs  of  life  renewed,  in  some  measure, 
the  gayety  of  the  camp.  They  appeared  so  near,  that  we  judged  them 
to  be  among  the  timber  of  some  of  the  neighboring  ridges;  but, 
having  them  constantly  in  view  day  after  day,  and  night  after  night, 
we  afterwards  found  them  to  be  fires  that  had  been  kindled  by  the 
Indians  among  the  tulares,  on  the  shore  of  the  bay,  80  miles  distant. 

Among  the  very  few  plants  that  appeared  here,  was  the  common 
blue  flax.  To-night,  a  mule  was  killed  for  food. 

February  22. — Our  breakfast  was  over  long  before  day.  We  took 
advantage  of  the  coolness  of  the  early  morning  to  get  over  the  snow, 
which  to-day  occurred  in  very  deep  banks  among  the  timber;  but 
we  searched  out  the  coldest  places,  and  the  animals  passed  success- 
fully with  their  loads  the  hard  crust.  Now  and  then,  the  delay  of 
making  a  road  occasioned  much  labor  and  loss  of  time.  In  the  after 
part  of  the  day,  we  saw  before  us  a  handsome  grassy  ridge  point; 
and,  making  a  desperate  push  over  a  snow  field  10  to  15  feet  deep, 
we  happily  succeeded  in  getting  the  camp  across;  and  encamped  on 
the  ridge,  after  a  march  of  three  miles.  We  had  again  the  prospect 
of  a  thunder  storm  below;  and  to-night  we  killed  another  mule — 
now  our  only  resource  from  starvation. 

We  satisfied  ourselves  during  the  day  that  the  lake  had  an  outlet 
between  two  ranges  on  the  right ;  and  with  this,  the  creek  on  which 
I  had  encamped  probably  effected  a  junction  below.  Between  these, 
we  were  descending. 

640 


We  continued  to  enjoy  the  same  delightful  weather;  the  sky  of  the 
same  beautiful  blue,  and  such  a  sunset  and  sunrise  as  on  our  Atlantic 
coast  we  could  scarcely  imagine.  And  here  among  the  mountains, 
9,000  feet  above  the  sea,  we  have  the  deep-blue  sky  and  sunny  climate 
of  Smyrna  and  Palermo,  which  a  little  map  before  me  shows  are  in 
the  same  latitude/"^ 

The  elevation  above  the  sea,  by  the  boiling  point,  is  8,565  feet. 

February  23. — This  was  our  most  difficult  day:  we  were  forced  off 
the  ridges  by  the  quantity  of  snow  among  the  timber,  and  obliged  to 
take  to  the  mountain  sides,  where,  occasionally,  rocks  and  a  southern 
exposure  afforded  us  a  chance  to  scramble  along.  But  these  were 
steep,  and  slippery  with  snow  and  ice;  and  the  tough  evergreens  of 
the  mountain  impeded  our  way,  tore  our  skins,  and  exhausted  our 
patience.  Some  of  us  had  the  misfortune  to  wear  moccasins  with 
parfleche  soles,  so  slippery  that  we  could  not  keep  our  feet,  and  gen- 
erally crawled  across  the  snow  beds.  Axes  and  mauls  were  necessary 
to-day,  to  make  a  road  through  the  snow.  Going  ahead  with  Carson 
to  reconnoitre  the  road,  we  reached  in  the  afternoon  the  river  which 
made  the  outlet  of  the  lake.  Carson  sprang  over,  clear  across  a  place 
where  the  stream  was  compressed  among  rocks,  but  the  parfleche 
sole  of  my  moccasin  glanced  from  the  icy  rock,  and  precipitated  me 
into  the  river.  It  was  some  few  seconds  before  I  could  recover  myself 
in  the  current,  and  Carson,  thinking  me  hurt,  jumped  in  after  me, 
and  we  both  had  an  icy  bath.  We  tried  to  search  a  while  for  my  gun, 
which  had  been  lost  in  the  fall,  but  the  cold  drove  us  out;  and  mak- 
ing a  large  fire  on  the  bank,  after  we  had  partially  dried  ourselves 
we  went  back  to  meet  the  camp.  We  afterwards  found  that  the  gun 
had  been  slung  under  the  ice  which  lined  the  banks  of  the  creek. 

Using  our  old  plan  of  breaking  the  road  with  alternate  horses,  we 
reached  the  creek  in  the  evening  and  encamped  on  a  dry  open  place 
in  the  ravine.  Another  branch,  which  we  had  followed,  here  comes 
in  on  the  left;  and  from  this  point  the  mountain  wall,  on  which  we 
had  travelled  to-day,  faces  to  the  south  along  the  right  bank  of  the 
river,  where  the  sun  appears  to  have  melted  the  snow;  but  the  op- 
posite ridge  is  entirely  covered.  Here,  among  the  pines,  the  hill  side 


129.  Preuss,  the  usually  dour  cartographer,  was  in  a  mood  which  for  him 
can  only  be  described  as  rapturous:  "But  what  an  atmosphere!  One  does  not 
[often]  see  such  sunrises  and  morning  and  evening  glows.  .  .  .  We  are  in 
the  latitude  of  Smyrna  and  Palermo.  The  sky  is  as  blue  as  forget-me-nots" 
(pREUSS,  112). 

641 


produces  but  little  grass — barely  sufficient  to  keep  life  in  the  animals. 
We  had  the  pleasure  to  be  rained  upon  this  afternoon;  and  grass  was 
now  our  greatest  solicitude.  Many  of  the  men  looked  badly;  and 
some  this  evening  were  giving  out. 

February  24. — We  rose  at  three  in  the  moning,  for  an  astronomical 
observation,  and  obtained  for  the  place  a  latitude  of  38°  46' 58''; 
longitude  120°  34'  20".  The  sky  was  clear  and  pure,  with  a  sharp 
wind  from  the  northeast,  and  the  thermometer  2°  below  the  freezing 
point. 

We  continued  down  the  south  face  of  the  mountain;  our  road 
leading  over  dry  ground,  we  were  able  to  avoid  the  snow  almost  en- 
tirely. In  the  course  of  the  morning,  we  struck  a  foot  path,  which  we 
were  generally  able  to  keep ;  and  the  ground  was  soft  to  our  animal's 
feet,  being  sandy  or  covered  with  mould.  Green  grass  began  to  make 
its  appearance,  and  occasionally  we  passed  a  hill  scatteringly  covered 
with  it.  The  character  of  the  forest  continued  the  same ;  and,  among 
the  trees,  the  pine  with  sharp  leaves  and  very  large  cones  was  abun- 
dant, some  of  them  being  noble  trees.  We  measured  one  that  had  10 
feet  diameter,  though  the  height  was  not  more  than  130  feet.  All 
along,  the  river  was  a  roaring  torrent,  its  fall  very  great;  and,  de- 
scending with  a  rapidity  to  which  we  had  long  been  strangers,  to  our 
great  pleasure  oak  trees  appeared  on  the  ridge,  and  soon  became  very 
frequent;  on  these  I  remarked  unusually  great  quantities  of  mistletoe. 
Rushes  began  to  make  their  appearance ;  and  at  a  small  creek  where 
they  were  abundant,  one  of  the  messes  was  left  with  the  weakest 
horses,  while  we  continued  on. 

The  opposite  mountain  side  was  very  steep  and  continuous — un- 
broken by  ravines,  and  covered  with  pines  and  snow;  while  on  the 
side  we  were  travelling,  innumerable  rivulets  poured  down  from 
the  ridge.  Continuing  on,  we  halted  a  moment  at  one  of  these  rivu- 
lets, to  admire  some  beautiful  evergreen  trees,^'^**  resembling  live  oak, 
which  shaded  the  little  stream.  They  were  forty  to  fifty  feet  high,  and 
two  in  diameter,  with  a  uniform  tufted  top;  and  the  summer  green 
of  their  beautiful  foliage,  with  the  singing  birds,  and  the  sweet  sum- 
mer wind  which  was  whirling  about  the  dry  oak  leaves,  nearly 
intoxicated  us  with  delight;  and  we  hurried  on,  filled  with  excite- 
ment, to  escape  entirely  from  the  horrid  region  of  inhospitable  snow, 
to  the  perpetual  spring  of  the  Sacramento. 


130.  Quercus  wisUzenii  A.  DC,  canyon  oak. 

642 


When  we  had  travelled  about  ten  miles,  the  valley  opened  a  little 
to  an  oak  and  pine  bottom,  through  which  ran  rivulets  closely  bor- 
dered with  rushes,  on  which  our  half-starved  horses  fell  with  avidity; 
and  here  we  made  our  encampment.  Here  the  roaring  torrent  has 
already  become  a  river,  and  we  had  descended  to  an  elevation  of 
3,864  feet. 

Along  our  road  to-day  the  rock  was  a  white  granite,  which  appears 
to  constitute  the  upper  part  of  the  mountains  on  both  the  eastern  and 
western  slopes;  while  between,  the  central  is  a  volcanic  rock. 

Another  horse  was  killed  to-night,  for  food. 

February  25. — Believing  that  the  difficulties  of  the  road  were 
passed,  and  leaving  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  to  follow  slowly,  as  the  condition 
of  the  animals  required,  I  started  ahead  this  morning  with  a  party  of 
eight,  consisting  (with  myself)  of  Mr.  Preuss  and  Mr.  Talbot,  Car- 
son, Derosier,  Towns,  Proue,  and  Jacob.  We  took  with  us  some  of 
the  best  animals,  and  my  intention  was  to  proceed  as  rapidly  as 
possible  to  the  house  of  Mr.  Sutter,  and  return  to  meet  the  party  with 
a  supply  of  provisions  and  fresh  animals. 

Continuing  down  the  river,  which  pursued  a  very  direct  westerly 
course  through  a  narrow  valley,  with  only  a  very  slight  and  narrow 
bottom  land,  we  made  twelve  miles,  and  encamped  at  some  old  In- 
dian huts,  apparently  a  fishing  place  on  the  river.  The  bottom  was 
covered  with  trees  of  deciduous  foliage,  and  overgrown  with  vines 
and  rushes.  On  a  bench  of  the  hill  near  by,  was  a  field  of  fresh  green 
grass,  six  inches  long  in  some  of  the  tufts  which  I  had  the  curiosity  to 
measure.  The  animals  were  driven  here;  and  I  spent  part  of  the  after- 
noon sitting  on  a  large  rock  among  them,  enjoying  the  pauseless 
rapidity  with  which  they  luxuriated  in  the  unaccustomed  food. 

The  forest  was  imposing  to-day  in  the  magnificence  of  the  trees; 
some  of  the  pines,  bearing  large  cones,  were  10  feet  in  diameter; 
cedars  also  abounded,  and  we  measured  one  28^  feet  in  circumference 
four  feet  from  the  ground.  This  noble  tree  seemed  here  to  be  in  its 
proper  soil  and  climate.  We  found  it  on  both  sides  of  the  Sierra,  but 
most  abundant  on  the  west. 

February  16. — We  continued  to  follow  the  stream,  the  mountains 
on  either  hand  increasing  in  height  as  we  descended,  and  shutting  up 
the  river  narrowly  in  precipices,  along  which  we  had  great  difficulty 
to  get  our  horses. 

It  rained  heavily  during  the  afternoon,  and  we  were  forced  ofT  the 
river  to  the  heights  above;  whence  we  descended,  at  night-fall,  the 

643 


point  of  a  spur  between  the  river  and  a  fork  of  nearly  equal  size, 
coming  in  from  the  right.  Here  we  saw,  on  the  lower  hills,  the  first 
flowers  in  bloom,  which  occurred  suddenly,  and  in  considerable 
quantity;  one  of  them  a  species  of  gilia. 

The  current  in  both  streams  (rather  torrents  than  rivers)  was  bro- 
ken by  large  boulders.  It  was  late,  and  the  animals  fatigued;  and  not 
succeeding  to  find  a  ford  immediately,  we  encamped,  although  the 
hill  side  afforded  but  a  few  stray  bunches  of  grass,  and  the  horses, 
standing  about  in  the  rain,  looked  very  miserable. 

February  27. — We  succeeded  in  fording  the  stream,  and  made  a 
trail  by  which  we  crossed  the  point  of  the  opposite  hill,  which,  on 
the  southern  exposure,  was  prettily  covered  with  green  grass,  and 
we  halted  a  mile  from  our  last  encampment.  The  river  was  only 
about  sixty  feet  wide,  but  rapid,  and  occasionally  deep,  foaming 
among  boulders,  and  the  water  beautifully  clear.  We  encamped  on 
the  hill  slope,  as  there  was  no  bottom  level,  and  the  opposite  ridge  is 
continuous,  affording  no  streams. 

We  had  with  us  a  large  kettle;  and  a  mule  being  killed  here,  his 
head  was  boiled  in  it  for  several  hours,  and  made  a  passable  soup 
for  famished  people. 

Below,  precipices  on  the  river  forced  us  to  the  heights,  which  we 
ascended  by  a  steep  spur  2,000  feet  high.  My  favorite  horse,  Proveau, 
had  become  very  weak,  and  was  scarcely  able  to  bring  himself  to  the 
top.  Travelling  here  was  good,  except  in  crossing  the  ravines,  which 
were  narrow,  steep,  and  frequent.  We  caught  a  glimpse  of  a  deer, 
the  first  animal  we  had  seen;  but  did  not  succeed  in  approaching 
him.  Proveau  could  not  keep  up,  and  I  left  Jacob  to  bring  him  on, 
being  obliged  to  press  forward  with  the  party,  as  there  was  no  grass 
in  the  forest.  We  grew  very  anxious  as  the  day  advanced  and  no  grass 
appeared,  for  the  lives  of  our  animals  depended  on  finding  it  to- 
night. They  were  in  just  such  a  condition  that  grass  and  repose  for 
the  night  enabled  them  to  get  on  the  next  day.  Every  hour  we  had 
been  expecting  to  see  open  out  before  us  the  valley,  which,  from  the 
mountain  above,  seemed  almost  at  our  feet.  A  new  and  singular 
shrub,^'^^  which  had  made  its  appearance  since  crossing  the  moun- 
tain, was  very  frequent  to-day.  It  branched  out  near  the  ground, 
forming  a  clump  eight  to  ten  feet  high,  with  pale-green  leaves  of  an 
oval  form,  and  the  body  and  branches  had  a  naked  appearance,  as 


131.  Arctostaphylos  sp.,  manzanita. 

644 


if  stripped  of  the  bark,  which  is  very  smooth  and  thin,  of  a  chocolate 
color,  contrasting  well  with  the  pale  green  of  the  leaves.  The  day  was 
nearly  gone;  we  had  made  a  hard  day's  march,  and  found  no  grass. 
Towns  became  light-headed,  wandering  off  into  the  woods  without 
knowing  where  he  was  going,  and  Jacob  brought  him  back. 

Near  night-fall  we  descended  into  the  steep  ravine  of  a  handsome 
creek  thirty  feet  wide,  and  I  was  engaged  in  getting  the  horses  up 
the  opposite  hill,  when  I  heard  a  shout  from  Carson,  who  had  gone 
ahead  a  few  hundred  yards — "Life  yet,"  said  he,  as  he  came  up,  "life 
yet;  I  have  found  a  hill  side  sprinkled  with  grass  enough  for  the 
night."  We  drove  along  our  horses,  and  encamped  at  the  place  about 
dark,  and  there  was  just  room  enough  to  make  a  place  for  shelter  on 
the  edge  of  the  stream.  Three  horses  were  lost  to-day — Proveau;  a 
fine  young  horse  from  the  Columbia,  belonging  to  Charles  Towns; 
and  another  Indian  horse  which  carried  our  cooking  utensils;  the 
two  former  gave  out,  the  latter  strayed  off  into  the  woods  as  we 
reached  the  camp. 

February  29. — We  lay  shut  up  in  the  narrow  ravine,  and  gave  the 
animals  a  necessary  day;  and  men  were  sent  back  after  the  others. 
Derosier  volunteered  to  bring  up  Proveau,  to  whom  he  knew  I  was 
greatly  attached,  as  he  had  been  my  favorite  horse  on  both  expedi- 
tions. Carson  and  I  climbed  one  of  the  nearest  mountains;  the  forest 
land  still  extended  ahead,  and  the  valley  appeared  as  far  as  ever.  The 
pack  horse  was  found  near  the  camp,  but  Derosier  did  not  get  in. 

March  1.— Derosier  did  not  get  in  during  the  night,  and  leaving 
him  to  follow,  as  no  grass  remained  here,  we  continued  on  over  the 
uplands,  crossing  many  small  streams,  and  camped  again  on  the 
river,  having  made  6  miles.  Here  we  found  the  hill  side  covered 
(although  lightly)  with  fresh  green  grass;  and  from  this  time  for- 
ward we  found  it  always  improving  and  abundant. 

We  made  a  pleasant  camp  on  the  river  hill,  where  were  some 
beautiful  specimens  of  the  chocolate-colored  shrub,  which  were  a 
foot  in  diameter  near  the  ground,  and  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  high. 
The  opposite  ridge  runs  continuously  along,  unbroken  by  streams. 
We  are  rapidly  descending  into  the  spring,  and  we  are  leaving  our 
snowy  region  far  behind;  every  thing  is  getting  green;  butterflies  are 
swarming;  numerous  bugs  are  creeping  out,  wakened  from  their 
winter's  sleep;  and  the  forest  flowers  are  coming  into  bloom.  Among 
those  which  appeared  most  numerously  to-day  was  dodecatheon 
dentatum. 

645 


We  began  to  be  uneasy  at  Derosier's  absence,  fearing  he  might 
have  been  bewildered  in  the  woods,  Charles  Towns,  who  had  not  yet 
recovered  his  mind,  went  to  swim  in  the  river,  as  if  it  were  summer, 
and  the  stream  placid,  when  it  was  a  cold  mountain  torrent  foaming 
among  rocks.  We  were  happy  to  see  Derosier  appear  in  the  evening. 
He  came  in,  and,  sitting  down  by  the  fire,  began  to  tell  us  where  he 
had  been.  He  imagined  he  had  been  gone  several  days,  and  thought 
we  were  still  at  the  camp  where  he  had  left  us ;  and  we  were  pained 
to  see  that  his  mind  was  deranged.  It  appeared  that  he  had  been  lost 
in  the  mountain,  and  hunger  and  fatigue,  joined  to  weakness  of  body, 
and  fear  of  perishing  in  the  mountains,  had  crazed  him.  The  times 
were  severe  when  stout  men  lost  their  minds  from  extremity  of  suf- 
fering— when  horses  died — and  when  mules  and  horses,  ready  to  die 
of  starvation,  were  killed  for  food.  Yet  there  was  no  murmuring  or 
hesitation. 

A  short  distance  below  our  encampment,  the  river  mountains  ter- 
minated in  precipices,  and,  after  a  fatiguing  march  of  only  a  few 
miles,  we  encamped  on  a  bench  where  there  were  springs  and  an 
abundance  of  the  freshest  grass.  In  the  mean  time,  Mr.  Preuss  con- 
tinued on  down  the  river,  and,  unaware  that  we  had  encamped  so 
early  in  the  day,  was  lost.  When  night  arrived,  and  he  did  not  come 
in,  we  began  to  understand  what  had  happened  to  him;  but  it  was 
too  late  to  make  any  search, 

March  3. — We  followed  Mr.  Preuss's  trail  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance along  the  river,  until  we  reached  a  place  where  he  had  de- 
scended to  the  stream  below  and  encamped.  Here  we  shouted  and 
fired  guns,  but  received  no  answer;  and  we  concluded  that  he  had 
pushed  on  down  the  stream.  I  determined  to  keep  out  from  the  river, 
along  which  it  was  nearly  impracticable  to  travel  with  animals,  until 
it  should  form  a  valley.  At  every  step  the  country  improved  in 
beauty;  the  pines  were  rapidly  disappearing,  and  oaks  became  the 
principal  trees  of  the  forest.  Among  these,  the  prevailing  tree  was  the 
evergreen  oak,  (which,  by  way  of  distinction,  we  shall  call  the  live 
oak^;)  and  with  these,  occurred  frequently  a  new  species  of  oak  bear- 
ing a  long  slender  acorn,  from  an  inch  to  an  inch  and  a  half  in 
length,  which  we  now  began  to  see  formed  the  principal  vegetable 
food  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  region.  In  a  short  distance  we  crossed 
a  little  rivulet,  where  were  two  old  huts,  and  near  by  were  heaps  of 
acorn  hulls.  The  ground  round  about  was  very  rich,  covered  with  an 


646 


exuberant  sward  of  srass ;  and  we  sat  down  for  a  while  in  the  shade 
of  the  oaks,  to  let  the  animals  feed.  We  repeated  our  shouts  for  Mr. 
Preuss;  and  this  time  we  were  gratified  with  an  answer.  The  voice 
grew  rapidly  nearer,  ascending  from  the  river;  but  when  we  ex- 
pected to  see  him  emerge,  it  ceased  entirely.  We  had  called  up  some 
straggling  Indian — the  first  we  had  met,  although  for  two  days  back 
we  had  seen  tracks — who,  mistaking  us  for  his  fellows,  had  been 
only  undeceived  on  getting  close  up.  It  would  have  been  pleasant  to 
witness  his  astonishment;  he  would  not  have  been  more  frightened 
had  some  of  the  old  mountain  spirits  they  are  so  much  afraid  of  sud- 
denly appeared  in  his  path.  Ignorant  of  the  character  of  these  people, 
we  had  now  an  additional  cause  of  uneasiness  in  regard  to  Mr. 
Preuss;  he  had  no  arms  with  him,  and  we  began  to  think  his  chance 
doubtful.  We  followed  on  a  trail,  still  keeping  out  from  the  river, 
and  descended  to  a  very  large  creek,  dashing  with  great  velocity  over 
a  pre-eminently  rocky  bed  and  among  large  boulders.  The  bed  had 
sudden  breaks,  formed  by  deep  holes  and  ledges  of  rock  running 
across.  Even  here,  it  deserves  the  name  of  Roc\  creek,  which  we  gave 
to  it.  We  succeeded  in  fording  it,  and  toiled  about  three  thousand 
feet  up  the  opposite  hill.  The  mountains  now  were  getting  sensibly 
lower;  but  still  there  is  no  valley  on  the  river,  which  presents  steep 
and  rocky  banks ;  but  here,  several  miles  from  the  river,  the  country 
is  smooth  and  grassy;  the  forest  has  no  undergrowth;  and  in  the 
open  valleys  of  rivulets,  or  around  spring  heads,  the  low  groves  of 
live  oak  give  the  appearance  of  orchards  in  an  old  cultivated  country. 
Occasionally  we  met  deer,  but  had  not  the  necessary  time  for  hunt- 
ing. At  one  of  these  orchard  grounds,  we  encamped  about  noon  to 
make  an  effort  for  Mr.  Preuss.  One  man  took  his  way  along  a  spur 
leading  into  the  river,  in  hope  to  cross  his  trail;  and  another  took 
our  own  back.  Both  were  volunteers;  and  to  the  successful  man  was 
promised  a  pair  of  pistols— not  as  a  reward,  but  as  a  token  of  grati- 
tude for  a  service  which  would  free  us  all  from  much  anxiety. 

We  had  among  our  few  animals  a  horse  which  was  so  much  re- 
duced, that,  with  travelling,  even  the  good  grass  could  not  save  him; 
and,  having  nothing  to  eat,  he  was  killed  this  afternoon.  He  was  a 
good  animal,  and  had  made  the  journey  round  from  Fort  Hall. 

Dedecatheon  dentatum  continued  the  characteristic  plant  in  flower; 
and  the  naked-looking  shrub  already  mentioned  continued  char- 
acteristic, beginning  to  put  forth  a  small  white  blossom.  At  evenmg 


647 


the  men  returned,  having  seen  or  heard  nothing  of  Mr.  Preuss;  and  I 
determined  to  make  a  hard  push  down  the  river  the  next  morning, 
and  get  ahead  of  him. 

March  4. — We  continued  rapidly  along  on  a  broad  plainly-beaten 
trail,  the  mere  travelling  and  breathing  the  delightful  air  being  a 
positive  enjoyment.  Our  road  led  along  a  ridge  inclining  to  the  river, 
and  the  air  and  the  open  grounds  were  fragrant  with  flowering 
shrubs;  and  in  the  course  of  the  morning  we  issued  on  an  open  spur, 
by  which  we  descended  directly  to  the  stream.  Here  the  river  issues 
suddenly  from  the  mountains,  which  hitherto  had  hemmed  it  closely 
in;  these  now  become  softer,  and  change  sensibly  their  character;  and 
at  this  point  commences  the  most  beautiful  valley  in  which  we  had 
ever  travelled.  We  hurried  to  the  river,  on  which  we  noticed  a  small 
sand  beach,  to  which  Mr.  Preuss  would  naturally  have  gone.  We 
found  no  trace  of  him,  but,  instead,  were  recent  tracks  of  barefooted 
Indians,  and  little  piles  of  muscle  shells,  and  old  fires  where  they 
had  roasted  the  fish.  We  travelled  on  over  the  river  grounds,  which 
were  undulating,  and  covered  with  grass  to  the  river  brink.  We 
halted  to  noon  a  few  miles  beyond,  always  under  the  shade  of  the 
evergreen  oaks,  which  formed  open  groves  on  the  bottoms. 

Continuing  our  road  in  the  afternoon,  we  ascended  to  the  uplands, 
where  the  river  passes  round  a  point  of  great  beauty,  and  goes 
through  very  remarkable  dalles,  in  character  resembling  those  of  the 
Columbia  river,  and  which  you  will  find  mentioned  on  the  map  an- 
nexed. Beyond,  we  again  descended  to  the  bottoms,  where  we  found 
an  Indian  village,  consisting  of  two  or  three  huts ;  we  had  come  upon 
them  suddenly,  and  the  people  had  evidently  just  run  off.  The  huts 
were  low  and  slight,  made  like  beehives  in  a  picture,  five  or  six  feet 
high,  and  near  each  was  a  crate,  formed  of  interlaced  branches  and 
grass,  in  size  and  shape  like  a  very  large  hogshead.  Each  of  these 
contained  from  six  to  nine  bushels.  These  were  filled  with  the  long 
acorns  already  mentioned,  and  in  the  huts  were  several  neatly  made 
baskets,  containing  quantities  of  the  acorns  roasted.  They  were  sweet 
and  agreeably  flavored,  and  we  supplied  ourselves  with  about  half  a 
bushel,  leaving  one  of  our  shirts,  a  handkerchief,  and  some  smaller 
articles,  in  exchange.  The  river  again  entered  for  a  space  among  hills, 
and  we  followed  a  trail  leading  across  a  bend  through  a  handsome 
hollow  behind.  Here,  while  engaged  in  trying  to  circumvent  a  deer, 
we  discovered  some  Indians  on  a  hill  several  hundred  yards  ahead, 
and  gave  them  a  shout,  to  which  they  responded  by  loud  and  rapid 

648 


talking  and  vehement  gesticulation,  but  made  no  stop,  hurrying  up 
the  mountain  as  fast  as  their  legs  could  carry  them.  We  passed  on, 
and  again  encamped  in  a  grassy  grove. 

The  absence  of  Mr.  Preuss  gave  me  great  concern ;  and,  for  a  large 
reward,  Derosier  volunteered  to  go  back  on  the  trail.  I  directed  him 
to  search  along  the  river,  travelling  upward  for  the  space  of  a  day 
and  a  half,  at  which  time  I  expected  he  would  meet  Mr.  Fitzpatrick, 
whom  I  requested  to  aid  in  the  search ;  at  all  events,  he  was  to  go  no 
farther,  but  return  to  this  camp,  where  a  cache  of  provisions  was 
made  for  him. 

Continuing  the  next  day  down  the  river,  we  discovered  three 
squaws  in  a  little  bottom,  and  surrounded  them  before  they  could 
make  their  escape.  They  had  large  conical  baskets,  which  they  were 
engaged  in  filling  with  a  small  leafy  plant  {erodium  cicutanumY^^ 
just  now  beginning  to  bloom,  and  covering  the  ground  like  a  sward 
of  grass.  These  did  not  make  any  lamentations,  but  appeared  very 
much  impressed  with  our  appearance,  speaking  to  us  only  in  a  whis- 
per, and  offering  us  smaller  baskets  of  the  plant,  which  they  signified 
to  us  was  good  to  eat,  making  signs  also  that  it  was  to  be  cooked  by 
the  fire.  We  drew  out  a  little  cold  horse  meat,  and  the  squaws  made 
signs  to  us  that  the  men  had  gone  out  after  deer,  and  that  we  could 
have  some  by  waiting  till  they  came  in.  We  observed  that  the  horses 
ate  with  great  avidity  the  herb  which  they  had  been  gathering;  and 
here  also,  for  the  first  time,  we  saw  Indians  eat  the  common  grass — 
one  of  the  squaws  pulling  several  tufts,  and  eating  it  with  apparent 
relish.  Seeing  our  surprise,  she  pointed  to  the  horses;  but  we  could 
not  well  understand  what  she  meant,  except,  perhaps,  that  what  was 
good  for  the  one  was  good  for  the  other. 

We  encamped  in  the  evening  on  the  shore  of  the  river,  at  a  place 
where  the  associated  beauties  of  scenery  made  so  strong  an  impres- 
sion on  us  that  we  have  given  it  the  name  of  the  Beautiful  Camp. 
The  undulating  river  shore  was  shaded  with  the  live  oaks,  which 
formed  a  continuous  grove  over  the  country,  and  the  same  grassy 
sward  extended  to  the  edge  of  the  water;  and  we  made  our  fires 
near  some  large  granite  masses  which  were  lying  among  the  trees. 
We  had  seen  several  of  the  acorn  caches  during  the  day;  and  here 
there  were  two  which  were  very  large,  containing  each,  probably. 


132.  Erodium  cicutarium  (L.)  L'Her.  Filagree.  Here  the  Indians  were 
making  domestic  use  of  a  plant  almost  certainly  introduced  by  Spanish  ex- 
plorers and  Franciscan  missionaries  during  the  previous  century. 

649 


ten  bushels.  Towards  evening  we  heard  a  weak  shout  among  the 
hills  behind,  and  had  the  pleasure  to  see  Mr.  Preuss  descending  to- 
wards the  camp.  Like  ourselves,  he  had  travelled  to-day  25  miles,  but 
had  seen  nothing  of  Derosier.  Knowing,  on  the  day  he  was  lost,  that 
I  was  determined  to  keep  the  river  as  much  as  possible,  he  had  not 
thought  it  necessary  to  follow  the  trail  very  closely,  but  walked  on, 
right  and  left,  certain  to  find  it  somewhere  along  the  river,  searching 
places  to  obtain  good  views  of  the  country.  Towards  sunset  he 
climbed  down  towards  the  river  to  look  for  the  camp;  but,  finding 
no  trail,  concluded  that  we  were  behind,  and  walked  back  until 
night  came  on,  when,  being  very  much  fatigued,  he  collected  drift 
wood  and  made  a  large  fire  among  the  rocks.  The  next  day  it  be- 
came more  serious,  and  he  encamped  again  alone,  thinking  that  we 
must  have  taken  some  other  course.  To  go  back  would  have  been 
madness  in  his  weak  and  starved  condition,  and  onward  towards  the 
valley  was  his  only  hope,  always  in  expectation  of  reaching  it  soon. 
His  principal  means  of  subsistence  were  a  few  roots,  which  the  hunt- 
ers call  sweet  onions,  having  very  little  taste,  but  a  good  deal  of 
nutriment,  growing  generally  in  rocky  ground,  and  requiring  a  good 
deal  of  labor  to  get  as  he  had  only  a  pocket  knife.  Searching  for 
these,  he  found  a  nest  of  big  ants,  which  he  let  run  on  his  hand,  and 
stripped  them  off  in  his  mouth;  these  had  an  agreeable  acid  taste. 
One  of  his  greatest  privations  was  the  want  of  tobacco;  and  a  pleas- 
ant smoke  at  evening  would  have  been  a  relief  which  only  a  voya- 
geur  could  appreciate.  He  tried  the  dried  leaves  of  the  live  oak, 
knowing  that  those  of  other  oaks  were  sometimes  used  as  a  substi- 
tute; but  these  were  too  thick,  and  would  not  do.  On  the  4th  he  made 
seven  or  eight  miles,  walking  slowly  along  the  river,  avoiding  as 
much  as  possible  to  climb  the  hills.  In  little  pools  he  caught  some  of 
the  smallest  kind  of  frogs,  which  he  swallowed,  not  so  much  in  the 
gratification  of  hunger,  as  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  some  strength. 
Scattered  along  the  river  were  old  fire-places,  where  the  Indians  had 
roasted  muscles  and  acorns;  but  though  he  searched  diligently,  he 
did  not  there  succeed  in  finding  either.  He  had  collected  fire  wood 
for  the  night,  when  he  heard  at  some  distance  from  the  river  the 
barking  of  what  he  thought  were  two  dogs,  and  walked  in  that  direc- 
tion as  quickly  as  he  was  able,  hoping  to  find  there  some  Indian  hut, 
but  met  only  two  wolves ;  and,  in  his  disappointment,  the  gloom  of 
the  forest  was  doubled. 
Travelling  the  next  day  feebly  down  the  river,  he  found  five  or  six 

650 


Indians  at  the  huts  of  which  we  have  spoken;  some  were  painting 
themselves  black,  and  others  roasting  acorns.  Being  only  one  man, 
they  did  not  run  off,  but  received  him  kindly,  and  gave  him  a  wel- 
come supply  of  roasted  acorns.  He  gave  them  his  pocket  knife  in  re- 
turn, and  stretched  out  his  hand  to  one  of  the  Indians,  who  did  not 
appear  to  comprehend  the  motion,  but  jumped  back,  as  if  he  thought 
he  was  about  to  lay  hold  of  him.  They  seemed  afraid  of  him,  not 
certain  as  to  what  he  was. 

Travelling  on,  he  came  to  the  place  where  we  had  found  the 
squaws.  Here  he  found  our  fire  still  burning,  and  the  tracks  of  the 
horses.  The  sight  gave  him  sudden  hope  and  courage;  and,  follow- 
ing as  fast  as  he  could,  joined  us  at  evening. 

March  6.— We  continued  on  our  road,  through  the  same  sur- 
passingly beautiful  country,  entirely  unequalled  for  the  pasturage  of 
stock  by  any  thing  we  had  ever  seen.  Our  horses  had  now  become  so 
strong  that  they  were  able  to  carry  us,  and  we  travelled  rapidly— over 
four  miles  an  hour;  four  of  us  riding  every  alternate  hour.  Every  few 
hundred  yards  we  came  upon  a  little  band  of  deer;  but  we  were  too 
eager  to  reach  the  settlement  which  we  momentarily  expected  to 
discover,  to  halt  for  any  other  than  a  passing  shot.  In  a  few  hours  we 
reached  a  large  fork,  the  northern  branch  of  the  river,  and  equal  in 
size  to  that  which  we  had  descended.  Together  they  formed  a  beauti- 
ful stream,  60  to  100  yards  wide;  which  at  first,  ignorant  of  the  na- 
ture of  the  country  through  which  that  river  ran,  we  took  to  be  the 
Sacramento.^^^ 

We  continued  down  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  travelling  for  a 
while  over  a  wooded  upland,  where  we  had  the  delight  to  discover 
tracks  of  cattle.  To  the  southwest  was  visible  a  black  column  of 
smoke,  which  we  had  frequently  noticed  in  descending,  arising  from 
the  fires  we  had  seen  from  the  top  of  the  Sierra.  From  the  upland 
we  descended  into  broad  groves  on  the  river,  consisting  of  the  ever- 
green, and  a  new  species  of  white  oak  with  a  large  tufted  top,  and 
three  to  six  feet  in  diameter.  Among  these  was  no  brushwood ;  and 
the  grassy  surface  gave  to  it  the  appearance  of  parks  in  an  old  settled 
country.  Following  the  tracks  of  the  horses  and  catde  in  search  of 
people,  we  discovered  a  small  village  of  Indians.  Some  of  these  had 
on  shirts  of  civilized  manufacture,  but  were  otherwise  naked,  and  we 


133.  The  American  River  at  last.  They  had  been  traveHng  on  its  tributaries 
for  several  days. 

651 


could  understand  nothing  from  them;  they  appeared  entirely  aston- 
ished at  seeing  us. 

We  made  an  acorn  meal  at  noon,  and  hurried  on ;  the  valley  being 
gay  with  flowers,  and  some  of  the  banks  being  absolutely  golden 
with  the  Californian  poppy,  {eschscholtzia  crocea.)  Here  the  grass 
was  smooth  and  green,  and  the  groves  very  open;  the  large  oaks 
throwing  a  broad  shade  among  sunny  spots.  Shordy  afterwards  we 
gave  a  shout  at  the  appearance  on  a  little  bluff  of  a  neatly  built  adobe 
house  with  glass  windows.  We  rode  up,  but,  to  our  disappointment, 
found  only  Indians.  There  was  no  appearance  of  cultivation,  and  we 
could  see  no  cattle,  and  we  supposed  the  place  had  been  abandoned. 
We  now  pressed  on  more  eagerly  than  ever;  the  river  swept  round  in 
a  large  bend  to  the  right;  the  hills  lowered  down  entirely;  and, 
gradually  entering  a  broad  valley,  we  came  unexpectedly  into  a  large 
Indian  village,  where  the  people  looked  clean,  and  wore  cotton  shirts 
and  various  other  articles  of  dress.  They  immediately  crowded 
around  us,  and  we  had  the  inexpressible  delight  to  find  one  who 
spoke  a  little  indifferent  Spanish,  but  who  at  first  confounded  us  by 
saying  there  were  no  whites  in  the  country;  but  just  then  a  well- 
dressed  Indian  came  up,  and  made  his  salutations  in  very  well 
spoken  Spanish.  In  answer  to  our  inquiries,  he  informed  us  that  we 
were  upon  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos,  (the  river  of  the  Americans,) 
and  that  it  joined  the  Sacramento  river  about  10  miles  below.  Never 
did  a  name  sound  more  sweetly!  We  felt  ourselves  among  our  coun- 
trymen; for  the  name  of  America?!,  in  these  distant  parts,  is  applied 
to  the  citizens  of  the  United  States.  To  our  eager  inquiries  he  an- 
swered, "I  am  a  vaquero  (cow  herder)  in  the  service  of  Capt.  Sutter, 
and  the  people  of  this  rancheria  work  for  him."  Our  evident  satisfac- 
tion made  him  communicative;  and  he  went  on  to  say  that  Capt. 
Sutter  was  a  very  rich  man,  and  always  glad  to  see  his  country  peo- 
ple. We  asked  for  his  house.  He  answered,  that  it  was  just  over  the 
hill  before  us ;  and  offered,  if  we  would  wait  a  moment,  to  take  his 
horse  and  conduct  us  to  it.  We  readily  accepted  his  civil  offer.  In  a 
short  distance  we  came  in  sight  of  the  fort ;  and,  passing  on  the  way 
the  house  of  a  settler  on  the  opposite  side,  (a  Mr.  Sinclair,)  we  forded 
the  river;  and  in  a  few  miles  were  met  a  short  distance  from  the  fort 
by  Capt.  Sutter  himself.^'^"*  He  gave  us  a  most  frank  and  cordial  re- 


134.  Scotsman  John  Sinclair  (d.  1849)  had  been  in  the  employ  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company  in  Oregon,  and  editor  of  a  paper  in  Honolulu,  before 
coming  to  California  in   1839.  When  JCF  met  him  he  was  occupying  the 

652 


ception — conducted  us  immediately  to  his  residence — and  under  his 
hospitable  roof  we  had  a  night  of  rest,  enjoyment,  and  refreshment, 
which  none  but  ourselves  could  appreciate.  But  the  party  left  in  the 
mountains  with  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  were  to  be  attended  to;  and  the  next 
morning,  supplied  with  fresh  horses  and  provisions,  I  hurried  off  to 
meet  them.  On  the  second  day  we  met,  a  few  miles  below  the  forks 
of  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos;  and  a  more  forlorn  and  pitiable  sight 
than  they  presented  cannot  well  be  imagined.  They  were  all  on  foot 
—each  man,  weak  and  emaciated,  leading  a  horse  or  mule  as  weak 
and  emaciated  as  themselves.  They  had  experienced  great  difficulty 
in  descending  the  mountains,  made  slippery  by  rains  and  melting 
snows,  and  many  horses  fell  over  precipices,  and  were  killed;  and 
with  some  were  lost  the  pack^s  they  carried.  Among  these,  was  a  mule 
with  the  plants  which  we  had  collected  since  leaving  Fort  Hall, 
along  a  line  of  2,000  miles  travel.  Out  of  67  horses  and  mules  with 
which  we  commenced  crossing  the  Sierra,  only  33  reached  the  valley 
of  the  Sacramento,  and  they  only  in  a  condition  to  be  led  along.  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick  and  his  party,  travelling  more  slowly,  had  been  able  to 
make  some  little  exertion  at  hunting,  and  had  killed  a  few  deer.  The 

El  Paso  rancho,  north  of  New  Helvetia,  for  Eliab  Grimes,  to  whom  it  was 
granted  in  1844.  He  later  was  alcalde  of  the  Sacramento  district  (pioneer 
register).  "Capt.  Sutter"  is,  of  course,  the  prominent  John  Augustus  Sutter 
(1803-80),  a  Swiss  emigrant  whose  fame  in  California  renders  annotation 
needless.  His  colony  on  the  American  River,  at  its  juncture  with  the  Sacra- 
mento, was  to  become  one  of  the  principal  places  of  call  for  American  setders 
coming  into  the  area.  Biographies  include  gudde  [2]  and  dillon. 

In  addition  to  treating  Fremont's  debilitated  party  with  civility  and  gener- 
osity, Sutter  felt  it  his  duty  to  report  the  matter  to  the  U.S.  consul  at  Mon- 
terey, Thomas  Oliver  Larkin.  Larkin  commented  upon  JCF's  presence  in  a 
letter  to  the  Secretary  of  State,  12  April  1844  (DNA-59),  and  enclosed  an 
extract  from  Sutter's  letter  to  him.  Sutter  had  said,  in  part:  "On  the  6  instant 
[March]  Lieut.  J.  C.  Fremont  from  the  U.  States  exploring  expedition  arrived 
here  in  distress,  having  been  forced  to  deviate  from  his  course  on  account  of 
deep  snows,  loss  of  Animals  and  want  of  Provisions.  He  informed  me  of  hav- 
ing left  the  Columbia  River  a  short  distance  above  Fort  Vancouver  with  the 
intention  of  crossing  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Arkansas  River  eastward, 
through  the  lower  or  southern  part  of  Oregon  Territory,  but  finding  a  suc- 
cession of  high  mountains  covered  with  snow  which  with  the  distressed  condi- 
tion of  his  company  forced  him  to  abandon  his  route  and  strike  for  the  settle- 
ments of  California,  refit  and  cross  the  mountains  farther  to  the  South.  .  .  . 
The  visit  of  this  exploring  expedition  I  attribute  entirely  to  accident.  .  .  .  The 
starvation  and  fatigue  they  had  endured  rendered  them  truly  deplorable  ob- 
jects." 

Larkin's  letter  thus  provided  direct  news  of  JCF  to  Washington  long  before 
the  expedition  had  returned.  It  was  received  in  Washington  2  May  1845. 

653 


scanty  supply  was  a  great  relief  to  them;  for  several  had  been  made 
sick  by  the  strange  and  unwholesome  food  which  the  preservation  of 
life  compelled  them  to  use.  We  stopped  and  encamped  as  soon  as  we 
met;  and  a  repast  of  good  beef,  excellent  bread,  and  delicious  salmon, 
which  I  had  brought  along,  were  their  first  relief  from  the  sufferings 
of  the  Sierra,  and  their  first  introduction  to  the  luxuries  of  the  Sacra- 
mento. It  required  all  our  philosophy  and  forbearance  to  prevent 
plenty  from  becoming  as  hurtful  to  us  now,  as  scarcity  had  been 
before. 

The  next  day,  March  8th,  we  encamped  at  the  junction  of  the  two 
rivers,  the  Sacramento  and  Americanos;  and  thus  found  the  whole 
party  in  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Sacramento.  It  was  a  convenient 
place  for  the  camp;  and,  among  other  things,  was  within  reach  of 
the  wood  necessary  to  make  the  pack  saddles,  which  we  should  need 
on  our  long  journey  home,  from  which  we  were  farther  distant  now 
than  we  were  four  months  before,  when  from  the  Dalles  of  the 
Columbia  we  so  cheerfully  took  up  the  homeward  line  of  march. 

Captain  Sutter  emigrated  to  this  country  from  the  western  part  of 
Missouri  in  1838-39,  and  formed  the  first  settlement  in  the  valley, 
on  a  large  grant  of  land  which  he  obtained  from  the  Mexican  Gov- 
ernment. He  had,  at  first,  some  trouble  with  the  Indians;  but,  by  the 
occasional  exercise  of  well-timed  authority,  he  has  succeeded  in  con- 
verting them  into  a  peaceable  and  industrious  people.  The  ditches 
around  his  extensive  wheat  fields,  the  making  of  the  sun-dried 
bricks,  of  which  his  fort  is  constructed;  the  ploughing,  harrowing, 
and  other  agricultural  operations,  are  entirely  the  work  of  these 
Indians,  for  which  they  receive  a  very  moderate  compensation— 
principally  in  shirts,  blankets,  and  other  articles  of  clothing.  In  the 
same  manner,  on  application  to  the  chief  of  a  village,  he  readily  ob- 
tains as  many  boys  and  girls  as  he  has  any  use  for.  There  were  at  this 
time  a  number  of  girls  at  the  fort,  in  training  for  a  future  woollen 
factory ;  but  they  were  now  all  busily  engaged  in  constantly  watering 
the  gardens,  which  the  unfavorable  dryness  of  the  season  rendered 
neccessary.  The  occasional  dryness  of  the  seasons,  I  understood  to  be 
the  only  complaint  of  the  settlers  in  this  fertile  valley,  as  it  some- 
times renders  the  crops  uncertain.  Mr.  Sutter  was  about  making 
arrangements  to  irrigate  his  lands  by  means  of  the  Rio  de  los  Ameri- 
canos. He  had  this  year  sown,  and  altogether  by  Indian  labor,  three 
hundred  fanegas  of  wheat. 

A  few   years  since,   the   neighboring  Russian   establishment   of 

654 


Ross/^^  being  about  to  withdraw  from  the  country,  sold  to  him  a 
large  number  of  stock,  with  agricultural  and  other  stores,  with  a 
number  of  pieces  of  artillery  and  other  munitions  of  war;  for  these, 
a  regular  yearly  payment  is  made  in  grain. 

The  fort  is  a  quadrangular  adobe  structure,  mounting  12  pieces 
of  artillery,  (two  of  them  brass,)  and  capable  of  admitting  a  garrison 
of  a  thousand  men ;  this,  at  present,  consists  of  40  Indians,  in  uniform 
— one  of  whom  was  always  found  on  duty  at  the  gate.  As  might 
naturally  be  expected,  the  pieces  are  not  in  very  good  order.  The 
whites  in  the  employment  of  Capt.  Sutter,  American,  French  and 
German,  amount,  perhaps,  to  30  men.  The  inner  wall  is  formed  into 
buildings  comprising  the  common  quarters,  with  blacksmith  and 
other  workshops;  the  dwelling  house,  with  a  large  distillery  house, 
and  other  buildings,  occupying  more  the  centre  of  the  area. 

It  is  built  upon  a  pond-Hke  stream,  at  times  a  running  creek  com- 
municating with  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos,  which  enters  the  Sac- 
ramento about  two  miles  below.  The  latter  is  here  a  noble  river, 
about  three  hundred  yards  broad,  deep  and  tranquil,  with  several 
fathoms  of  water  in  the  channel,  and  its  banks  continuously  tim- 
bered. There  were  two  vessels  belonging  to  Capt.  Sutter  at  anchor 
near  the  landing — one  a  large  two-masted  lighter,  and  the  other  a 
schooner,  which  was  shortly  to  proceed  on  a  voyage  to  Fort  Van- 
couver for  a  cargo  of  goods. 

Since  his  arrival,  several  other  persons,  principally  Americans, 
have  established  themselves  in  the  valley.  Mr.  Sinclair,  from  whom 
I  experienced  much  kindness  during  my  stay,  is  settled  a  few  miles 
distant,  on  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos.  Mr.  Coudrois,^'^*'  a  gentleman 
from  Germany,  has  established  himself  on  Feather  river,  and  is  as- 
sociated with  Captain  Sutter  in  agricultural  pursuits.  Among  other 
improvements,  they  are  about  to  introduce  the  cultivation  of  rape 


135.  "Ross,"  which  because  of  its  fortifications  became  known  to  the  Cal- 
ifornians  as  Puerto  de  los  Rusos  and  to  the  Americans  as  Fort  Ross,  was  be- 
gun by  the  Russians  in  1812  and  formed  the  nucleus  of  their  Californian 
activities  in  agriculture,  sealing,  and  the  fur  trade  to  1841  (essig). 

136.  Theodor  Cordua  (1796-1857),  born  in  Mecklenburg  and  probably  of 
Spanish  descent.  Like  Sinclair  and  Sutter,  he  had  been  in  Honolulu  before 
coming  to  California.  In  1844,  he  received  Mexican  citizenship  and  grants  of 
land  on  the  Feather  River.  After  running  a  store  at  the  mines  during  the 
gold  rush,  and  losing  his  wealth,  he  returned  to  Hawaii  and  ultimately  to 
Germany  (cordua). 

655 


seed,  {brassica  rapus,y^'^  which  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  is 
admirably  adapted  to  the  climate  and  soil.  The  lowest  average  pro- 
duce of  wheat,  as  far  as  we  can  at  present  know,  is  35  fanegas  for 
one  sown;  but,  as  an  instance  of  its  fertility,  it  may  be  mentioned 
that  Senor  Val[l]ejo  obtained,  on  a  piece  of  ground  where  sheep  had 
been  pastured,  800  fanegas  for  eight  sown.  The  produce  being  dif- 
ferent in  various  places,  a  very  correct  idea  cannot  be  formed. 

An  impetus  was  given  to  the  active  little  population  by  our  arrival, 
as  we  were  in  want  of  every  thing.  Mules,  horses,  and  cattle,  were  to 
be  collected;  the  horse  mill  was  at  work  day  and  night,  to  make 
sufficient  flour;  the  blacksmith's  shop  was  put  in  requisition  for 
horse  shoes  and  bridle  bitts;  and  pack  saddles,  ropes,  and  bridles,  and 
all  the  other  little  equipment  of  the  camp,  were  again  to  be  provided. 

The  delay  thus  occasioned  was  one  of  repose  and  enjoyment, 
which  our  situation  required,  and,  anxious  as  we  were  to  resume  our 
homeward  journey,  was  regretted  by  no  one.  In  the  mean  time,  I 
had  the  pleasure  to  meet  with  Mr.  Chiles,  who  was  residing  at  a 
farm  on  the  other  side  of  the  river  Sacramento,  while  engaged  in  the 
selection  of  a  place  for  a  settlement,  for  which  he  had  received 
the  necessary  grant  of  land  from  the  Mexican  Government. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  we  had  parted  near  the  frontier  of  the 
States,  and  that  he  had  subsequently  descended  the  valley  of  Lewis's 
fork,  with  a  party  of  10  or  12  men,  with  the  intention  of  crossing 
the  intermediate  mountains  to  the  waters  of  the  bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. In  the  execution  of  this  design,  and  aided  by  subsequent  in- 
formation, he  left  the  Columbia  at  the  mouth  of  Malheur  river;  and, 
making  his  way  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Sacramento  with  a  part  of 
his  company,  travelled  down  that  river  to  the  settlements  of  Nueva 
Helvetia.  The  other  party,  to  whom  he  had  committed  his  wagons, 
and  mill  irons  and  saws,  took  a  course  farther  to  the  south,  and  the 
wagons  and  their  contents  were  lost. 

On  the  22d  we  made  a  preparatory  move,  and  encamped  near  the 
settlement  of  Mr.  Sinclair,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Rio  de  los  Ameri- 
canos. I  had  discharged  five  of  the  party:  Neal,  the  blacksmith,  (an 
excellent  workman,  and  an  unmarried  man,  who  had  done  his  duty 
faithfully,  and  had  been  of  very  great  service  to  me,)  desired  to  re- 
main, as  strong  inducements  were  offered  here  to  mechanics.  Al- 
though at  considerable  inconvenience  to  myself,  his  good  conduct 


137.  An  error  for  Brassica  napus  L. 

656 


induced  me  to  comply  with  his  request;  and  I  obtained  for  him, 
from  Captain  Sutter,  a  present  compensation  of  two  dollars  and  a 
half  per  diem,  with  a  promise  that  it  should  be  increased  to  five,  if 
he  proved  as  good  a  workman  as  had  been  represented.  He  was 
more  particularly  an  agricultural  blacksmith.  The  other  men  were 
discharged  with  their  own  consent.^^^ 

While  we  remained  at  this  place,  Derosier,  one  of  our  best  men, 
whose  steady  good  conduct  had  won  my  regard,  wandered  ofiF  from 
the  camp,  and  never  returned  to  it  again;  nor  has  he  since  been 
heard  of.'^' 

March  24.— We  resumed  our  journey  with  an  ample  stock  of  pro- 
visions and  a  large  cavalcade  of  animals,  consisting  of  130  horses  and 
mules,  and  about  thirty  head  of  catde,  five  of  which  were  milch 
cows.  Mr.  Sutter  furnished  us  also  with  an  Indian  boy,  who  had  been 
trained  as  a  vaquero,  and  who  would  be  serviceable  in  managing 
our  cavalcade,  a  great  part  of  which  were  nearly  as  wild  as  buffalo; 
and  who  was,  besides,  very  anxious  to  go  along  with  us.^'*"  Our  direct 
course  home  was  east;  but  the  Sierra  would  force  us  south,  above 
five  hundred  miles  of  travelling,  to  a  pass  at  the  head  of  the  San 
Joaquin  river.^"  This  pass,  reported  to  be  good,  was  discovered  by 
Mr.  Joseph  Walker,  of  whom  I  have  already  spoken,  and  whose 
name  it  might  therefore  appropriately  bear.  To  reach  it,  our  course 
lay  along  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin— the  river  on  our  right,  and 
the  lofty  wall  of  the  impassable  Sierra  on  the  left.  From  that  pass 
we  were  to  move  southeastwardly,  having  the  Sierra  then  on  the 


138.  The  others  discharged  included  Oliver  Beaulieu,  Philibert  Courteau, 
Thomas  Fallon,  and  Joseph  Verrot.  Beaulieu  and  Courteau  were  accused  of 
stealing  sugar  from  the  party's  supplies,  and  deductions  were  made  from  their 
final  pay.  JCF  encountered  them  again  in  California  in  1846,  when  he  bought 
supplies  from  Beaulieu  and  hired  Courteau  as  a  cattle  guard.  See  bill  of 
Beaulieu  to  JCF,  8  March  1846  (CSmH),  and  Courteau  voucher  (no.  4),  30 
Sept.  1846,  DNA-217,  T-135.  As  we  have  already  noted,  Fallon  took  an  active 
part  in  the  Bear  Flag  Revolt  and  for  a  short  time  was  mayor  of  San   Jose. 

139.  Baptiste  Derosier  wandered  on  the  plains  for  many  days  before  re- 
turning to  Sutter's  establishment.  He  finally  reached  Jefferson,  Mo.,  21  Nov. 
1845,  more  than  a  year  after  the  main  party  had  returned.  His  wife  Therese 
had  already  been  paid  $45  of  the  amount  due  him,  and  he  was  paid  the  rest 
when  he  returned  (DNA-217,  T-135,  voucher  no.  301). 

140.  According  to  Sutter,  Lieut.  Col.  Rafael  Tellez,  a  captain,  a  lieutenant, 
and  twenty-five  dragoons  arrived  on  27  March  to  inquire  about  JCF's  activi- 
ties in  California  (gudde  |2J,  100-101). 

141.  JCF  means  Tehachapi  Pass,  but  we  shall  see  soon  that  he  did  not 
use  it. 

657 


right,  and  reach  the  ''Spanish  trail,"  deviously  traced  from  one 
watering  place  to  another,  which  constituted  the  route  of  the  cara- 
vans from  Puebla  de  los  Angeles,  near  the  coast  of  the  Pacific,  to 
Sa?ita  Fe  of  New  Mexico.  From  the  pass  to  this  trail  was  150  miles. 
Following  that  trail  through  a  desert,  relieved  by  some  fertile  plains 
indicated  by  the  recurrence  of  the  term  vegas,  until  it  turned  to  the 
right  to  cross  the  Colorado,  our  course  would  be  northeast  until  we 
regained  the  latitude  we  had  lost  in  arriving  at  the  Eutah  lake,  and 
thence  to  the  Rocky  mountains  at  the  head  of  the  Arkansas.  This 
course  of  travelling,  forced  upon  us  by  the  structure  of  the  country, 
would  occupy  a  computed  distance  of  two  thousand  miles  before 
we  reached  the  head  of  the  Arkansas;  not  a  settlement  to  be  seen 
upon  it;  and  the  names  of  places  along  it,  all  being  Spanish  or  In- 
dian, indicated  that  it  had  been  but  little  trod  by  American  feet. 
Though  long,  and  not  free  from  hardships,  this  route  presented 
some  points  of  attraction,  in  tracing  the  Sierra  Nevada— turning  the 
Great  Basin,  perhaps  crossing  its  rim  on  the  south — completely  solv- 
ing the  problem  of  any  river,  except  the  Colorado,  from  the  Rocky 
mountains  on  that  part  of  our  continent — and  seeing  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  Great  Salt  lake,  of  which  the  northern  part  had 
been  examined  the  year  before. 

Taking  leave  of  Mr.  Sutter,  who,  with  several  gentlemen,  ac- 
companied us  a  few  miles  on  our  way,  we  travelled  about  eighteen 
miles,  and  encamped  on  the  Rio  de  los  Cosumnes,  a  stream  receiving 
its  name  from  the  Indians  who  live  in  its  valley.^''^  Our  road  was 
through  a  level  country,  admirably  suited  to  cultivation,  and  covered 
with  groves  of  oak  trees,  principally  the  evergreen  oak,  and  a  large 
oak  already  mentioned,  in  form  like  those  of  the  white  oak.  The 
weather,  which  here,  at  this  season,  can  easily  be  changed  from  the 
summer  heat  of  the  valley  to  the  frosty  mornings  and  bright  days 
nearer  the  mountains,  continued  delightful  for  travellers,  but  un- 
favorable to  the  agriculturists,  whose  crops  of  wheat  began  to  wear 
a  yellow  tinge  from  want  of  rain. 

March  25.— We  travelled  for  28  miles  over  the  same  delightful 
country  as  yesterday,  and  halted  in  a  beautiful  bottom  at  the  ford  of 


142.  The  route  from  24  March  through  31  March  takes  the  party  to  the 
Cosumnes  the  first  night  and  the  Mokelumne  the  next.  By  26  March,  they 
are  on  the  Calaveras  not  far  from  Stockton.  On  28  March,  they  camp  on  the 
Stanislaus  near  Ripon.  Next  day  they  travel  seventeen  miles  without  findmg 
a  crossing,  finally  ferrying  across  in  the  vicinity  of  the  San  Joaquin. 

658 


the  Rio  de  los  Mii\elemnes,  receiving  its  name  from  another  Indian 
tribe  Hving  on  the  river.  The  bottoms  on  the  stream  are  broad,  rich, 
and  extremely  fertile;  and  the  uplands  are  shaded  with  oak  groves. 
A  showy  lupinus  of  extraordinary  beauty,  growing  four  to  five  feet 
in  height,  and  covered  with  spikes  in  bloom,  adorned  the  banks  of 
the  river,  and  filled  the  air  with  a  light  and  grateful  perfume. 

On  the  26th  we  halted  at  the  Arroyo  de  las  Calaveras,  (Skull 
creek,)  a  tributary  to  the  San  Joaquin — the  previous  two  streams 
entering  the  bay  between  the  San  Joaquin  and  Sacramento  rivers. 
This  place  is  beautiful,  with  open  groves  of  oak,  and  a  grassy  sward 
beneath,  with  many  plants  in  bloom;  some  varieties  of  which  seem 
to  love  the  shade  of  the  trees,  and  grow  there  in  close  small 
fields.  Near  the  river,  and  replacing  the  grass,  are  great  quantities  of 
ammole,  (soap  plant,) ^^'"^  the  leaves  of  which  are  used  in  California 
for  making,  among  other  things,  mats  for  saddle  cloths.  A  vine 
with  a  small  white  flower,  {melothria?^^^  called  here  la  yerba 
buena,  and  which,  from  its  abundance,  gives  name  to  an  island  and 
town  in  the  bay,  was  to-day  very  frequent  on  our  road — sometimes 
running  on  the  ground  or  climbing  the  trees. 

March  27. — To-day  we  travelled  steadily  and  rapidly  up  the  valley ; 
for,  with  our  wild  animals,  any  other  gait  was  impossible,  and  mak- 
ing about  five  miles  an  hour.  During  the  earlier  part  of  the  day,  our 
ride  had  been  over  a  very  level  prairie,  or  rather  a  succession  of  long 
stretches  of  prairie,  separated  by  lines  and  groves  of  oak  timber, 
growing  along  dry  gullies,  which  are  filled  with  water  in  seasons  of 
rain;  and,  perhaps,  also,  by  the  melting  snows.  Over  much  of  this 
extent,  the  vegetation  was  sparse;  the  surface  showing  plainly  the 
action  of  water,  which,  in  the  season  of  flood,  the  Joaquin  spreads 
over  the  valley.  About  1  o'clock  we  came  again  among  innumerable 
flowers;  and  a  few  miles  further,  fields  of  the  beautiful  blue-flower- 
ing lupine,  which  seems  to  love  the  neighborhood  of  water,  indicated 
that  we  were  approaching  a  stream.  We  here  found  this  beautiful 
shrub  in  thickets,  some  of  them  being  12  feet  in  height.  Occasionally 
three  or  four  plants  were  clustered  together,  forming  a  grand  bou- 
quet, about  90  feet  in  circumference,  and  10  feet  high;  the  whole 


143.  Chlorogalum  pomeridianum  (DC.)  Kunth.  Evidently  widely  used  by 
native  Indians  as  food,  either  raw  or  cooked,  and  by  settlers  as  a  convenient 
soap.  Its  use  for  saddle  mats  is  seldom  mentioned. 

144.  Satureja  douglasii  (Benth.)  Briq.,  yerba  buena,  gave  San  Francisco  its 
name.  A  mixed  reference  here  involving  cucurbit  Echinocystis  watsoni. 

659 


summit  covered  with  spikes  of  flowers,  the  perfume  of  which  is  very 
sweet  and  grateful.  A  lover  of  natural  beauty  can  imagine  with  what 
pleasure  we  rode  among  these  flowering  groves,  which  filled  the  air 
with  a  light  and  delicate  fragrance.  We  continued  our  road  for  about 
half  a  mile,  interspersed  through  an  open  grove  of  live  oaks,  which, 
in  form,  were  the  most  symmetrical  and  beautiful  we  had  yet  seen 
in  this  country.  The  ends  of  their  branches  rested  on  the  ground, 
forming  somewhat  more  than  a  half  sphere  of  very  full  and  regular 
figure,  with  leaves  apparently  smaller  than  usual. 

The  Californian  poppy,  of  a  rich  orange  color,  was  numerous  to- 
day. Elk  and  several  bands  of  antelope  made  their  appearance. 

Our  road  was  now  one  continued  enjoyment;  and  it  was  pleasant, 
riding  among  this  assemblage  of  green  pastures  with  varied  flowers 
and  scattered  groves,  and  out  of  the  warm  green  spring,  to  look  at 
the  rocky  and  snowy  peaks  where  lately  we  had  suffered  so  much. 
Emerging  from  the  timber,  we  came  suddenly  upon  the  Stanislaus 
river,  where  we  hoped  to  find  a  ford,  but  the  stream  was  flowing 
by,  dark  and  deep,  swollen  by  the  mountain  snows;  its  general 
breadth  was  about  50  yards. 

We  travelled  about  five  miles  up  the  river,  and  encamped  without 
being  able  to  find  a  ford.  Here  we  made  a  large  coral,  in  order  to  be 
able  to  catch  a  sufficient  number  of  our  wild  animals  to  relieve  those 
previously  packed. 

Under  the  shade  of  the  oaks,  along  the  river,  I  noticed  erodium 
cicutarium  in  bloom,  eight  or  ten  inches  high.  This  is  the  plant 
which  we  had  seen  the  squaws  gathering  on  the  Rio  de  los  Ameri- 
canos. By  the  inhabitants  of  the  valley,  it  is  highly  esteemed  for 
fattening  cattle,  which  appear  to  be  very  fond  of  it.  Here,  where  the 
soil  begins  to  be  sandy,  it  supplies  to  a  considerable  extent  the  want 
of  grass. 

Desirous,  as  far  as  possible,  without  delay,  to  include  in  our  ex- 
amination the  San  Joaquin  river,  I  returned  this  morning  down  the 
Stanislaus  for  17  miles,  and  again  encamped  without  having  found  a 
fording  place.  After  following  it  for  8  miles  further  the  next  morn- 
ing, and  finding  ourselves  in  the  vicinity  of  the  San  Joaquin, 
encamped  in  a  handsome  oak  grove,  and,  several  cattle  being  killed, 
we  ferried  over  our  baggage  in  their  skins.  Here  our  Indian  boy,  who 
probably  had  not  much  idea  of  where  he  was  going,  and  began  to  be 
alarmed  at  the  many  streams  which  we  were  rapidly  putting  be- 
tween him  and  the  village,  deserted. 

66o 


Thirteen  head  of  cattle  took  a  sudden  fright,  while  we  were  driv- 
ing them  across  the  river,  and  galloped  oflf.  I  remained  a  day  in  the 
endeavor  to  recover  them;  but,  finding  they  had  taken  the  trail 
back  to  the  fort,  let  them  s.o  without  further  effort.  Here  we  had 
several  days  of  warm  and  pleasant  rain,  which  doubtless  saved  the 
crops  below. 

On  the  1st  of  April,  we  made  10  miles  across  a  prairie  without 
timber,  when  we  were  stopped  again  by  another  large  river,  which 
is  called  the  Rio  de  la  Merced,  (river  of  our  Lady  of  Mercy.) ^^"  Here 
the  country  had  lost  its  character  of  extreme  fertility,  the  soil  having 
become  more  sandy  and  light;  but,  for  several  days  past,  its  beauty 
had  been  increased  by  the  additional  animation  of  animal  life;  and 
now,  it  is  crowded  with  bands  of  elk  and  wild  horses;  and  along  the 
rivers  are  frequent  fresh  tracks  of  grizzly  bear,  which  are  unusually 
numerous  in  this  country. 

Our  route  had  been  along  the  timber  of  the  San  Joaquin,  gen- 
erally about  8  miles  distant,  over  a  high  prairie. 

In  one  of  the  bands  of  elk  seen  to-day,  there  were  about  200;  but 
the  larger  bands,  both  of  these  and  wild  horses,  are  generally  found 
on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  which,  for  that  reason,  I  avoided  cross- 
ing. I  had  been  informed  below,  that  the  droves  of  wild  horses  were 
almost  invariably  found  on  the  western  bank  of  the  river;  and  the 
danger  of  losing  our  animals  among  them,  together  with  the  wish  of 
adding  to  our  reconnoissance  the  numerous  streams  which  run  down 
from  the  Sierra,  decided  me  to  travel  up  the  eastern  bank. 

April  2. — The  day  was  occupied  in  building  a  boat,  and  ferrying 
our  baggage  across  the  river;  and  we  encamped  on  the  bank.  A  large 
fishing  eagle,  with  white  head  and  tail,  was  slowly  sailing  along, 
looking  after  salmon;  and  there  were  some  pretty  birds  in  the  tim- 
ber, with  partridges,  ducks,  and  geese  innumerable  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. We  were  struck  with  the  tameness  of  the  latter  bird  at  Hel- 
vetia, scattered  about  in  flocks  near  the  wheat  fields,  and  eating  grass 
on  the  prairie;  a  horseman  would  ride  by  within  30  yards,  without 
disturbing  them. 

April  3. — To-day  we  touched  several  times  the  San  Joaquin  river 
— here  a  fine-looking  tranquil  stream,  with  a  slight  current,  and 
apparently  deep.  It  resembled  the  Missouri  in  color,  with  occasional 
points  of  white  sand;  and  its  banks,  where  steep,  were  a  kind  of 


145.  Actually  the  Tuolumne,  which  will  require  all  the  next  day  to  cross. 

66i 


sandy  clay;  its  average  width  appeared  to  be  about  eighty  yards.  In 
the  bottoms  are  frequent  ponds,  where  our  approach  disturbed 
multitudes  of  wild  fowl,  principally  geese.  Skirting  along  the  timber, 
we  frequently  started  elk ;  and  large  bands  were  seen  during  the  day, 
with  antelope  and  wild  horses.  The  low  country  and  the  timber 
rendered  it  difficult  to  keep  the  main  line  of  the  river;  and  this  eve- 
ning we  encamped  on  a  tributary  stream,^^*'  about  five  miles  from  its 
mouth.  On  the  prairie  bordering  the  San  Joaquin  bottoms,  there 
occurred  during  the  day  but  little  grass,  and  in  its  place  was  a  sparse 
and  dwarf  growth  of  plants;  the  soil  being  sandy,  with  small  bare 
places  and  hillocks,  reminded  me  much  of  the  Platte  bottoms;  but, 
on  approaching  the  timber,  we  found  a  more  luxuriant  vegetation; 
and  at  our  camp  was  an  abundance  of  grass  and  pea  vines. 

The  foliage  of  the  oak  is  getting  darker;  and  every  thing,  except 
that  the  weather  is  a  little  cool,  shows  that  spring  is  rapidly  advanc- 
ing; and  to-day  we  had  quite  a  summer  rain. 

April  4.— Commenced  to  rain  at  daylight,  but  cleared  oflf  brighdy 
at  sunrise.  We  ferried  the  river  without  any  difficulty,  and  continued 
up  the  San  Joaquin.  Elk  were  running  in  bands  over  the  prairie  and 
in  the  skirt  of  the  timber.  We  reached  the  river  again  at  the  mouth 
of  a  large  slough,  which  we  were  unable  to  ford,  and  made  a  circuit 
of  several  miles  around.  Here  the  country  appears  very  flat;  oak  trees 
have  entirely  disappeared,  and  are  replaced  by  a  large  willow,  nearly 
equal  to  it  in  size.  The  river  is  about  a  hundred  yards  in  breadth, 
branching  into  sloughs,  and  interspersed  with  islands.  At  this  time 
it  appears  sufficiently  deep  for  a  small  steamer,  but  its  navigation 
would  be  broken  by  shallows  at  low  water.  Bearing  in  towards  the 
river,  we  were  again  forced  oflf  by  another  slough;  and,  passing 
around,  steered  towards  a  clump  of  trees  on  the  river,  and,  finding 
there  good  grass,  encamped.  The  prairies  along  the  left  bank  are 
alive  with  immense  droves  of  wild  horses ;  and  they  have  been  seen 
during  the  day  at  every  opening  through  the  woods  which  afforded 
us  a  view  across  the  river.  Latitude,  by  observation,  37°  08'  00";  longi- 
tude 120°  45' 22". 

April  5.— During  the  earlier  part  of  the  day's  ride,  the  country 
presented  a  lacustrine  appearance;  the  river  was  deep,  and  nearly  on 
a  level  with  the  surrounding  country;  its  banks  raised  like  a  levee, 
and  fringed  with  willows.  Over  the  bordering  plain  were  inter- 


146.  The  Merced,  which  will  be  ferried  the  following  day. 

662 


Rio 
!nEVA'HEL\'ETIA 


-^.!V| 


■  M-  ■  ■' 


M  o  r  N  T  A  I  N      jr  J 

LAKE  '1       O    -;? 


-.Vif. 


'I: 


i 


/^" 


CALK    A    MILES     TO     OHE      INCH 


Rio  dc  los  American 


spersed  spots  of  prairie  among  fields  of  tule  (bulrushes,)  which  in 
this  country  are  called  tulares,  and  little  ponds.  On  the  opposite  side, 
a  line  of  timber  was  visible,  which,  according  to  information,  points 
out  the  course  of  the  slough,  which,  at  times  of  high  water,  connects 
with  the  San  Joaquin  river— a  large  body  of  water  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  valley,  called  the  Tule  lakes  [Tulare  Lake].  The  river 
and  all  its  sloughs  are  very  full,  and  it  is  probable  that  the  lake  is 
now  discharging.  Here  elk  were  frequendy  started,  and  one  was 
shot  out  of  a  band  which  ran  around  us.  On  our  left,  the  Sierra 
maintains  its  snowy  height,  and  masses  of  snow  appear  to  descend 
very  low  towards  the  plains;  probably  the  late  rains  in  the  valley 
were  snow  on  the  mountains.  We  travelled  37  miles,  and  encamped 
on  the  river.  Longitude  of  the  camp,  120°  28'  34",  and  latitude  36° 
49'  12". 

April  6.— After  having  travelled  15  miles  along  the  river,  we  made 
an  early  halt,  under  the  shade  of  sycamore  trees.  Here  we  found  the 
San  Joaquin  coming  down  from  the  Sierra  with  a  westerly  course, 
and  checking  our  way,  as  all  its  tributaries  had  previously  done.  We 
had  expected  to  raft  the  river;  but  found  a  good  ford,  and  encamped 
on  the  opposite  bank,  where  droves  of  wild  horses  were  raising 
clouds  of  dust  on  the  prairie.  Columns  of  smoke  were  visible  in  the 
direction  of  the  Tule  lakes  to  the  southward— probably  kindled  in 
the  tulares  by  the  Indians,  as  signals  that  there  were  strangers  in  the 
valley. 

We  made,  on  the  7th,  a  hard  march  in  a  cold  chilly  rain  from 
morning  until  night— the  weather  so  thick  that  we  travelled  by 
compass.  This  was  a  traverse  from  the  San  Joaquin  to  the  waters  of 
the  Tule  lakes,  and  our  road  was  over  a  very  level  prairie  country. 
We  saw  wolves  frequently  during  the  day,  prowling  about  after  the 
young  antelope,  which  cannot  run  very  fast.  These  were  numerous 
during  the  day,  and  two  were  caught  by  the  people. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  discovered  timber,  which  was  found  to 
be  groves  of  oak  trees  on  a  dry  arroyo.  The  rain,  which  had  fallen  in 
frequent  showers,  poured  down  in  a  storm  at  sunset,  with  a  strong 
wind,  which  swept  off  the  clouds,  and  left  a  clear  sky.  Riding  on 
through  the  timber,  about  dark  we  found  abundant  water  in  small 
ponds,  20  to  30  yards  in  diameter,  with  clear  deep  water  and  sandy 
beds,  bordered  with  bog  rushes  {jtincus  effusus,)  and  a  tall  rush 
{scirpus  lacustris)  12  feet  high,  and  surrounded  near  the  margin 
with  willow  trees  in  bloom;  among  them  one  which  resembled  salix 

667, 


myricoides}'^'^  The  oak  of  the  groves  was  the  same  already  men- 
tioned, with  small  leaves,  in  form  like  those  of  the  white  oak,  and 
forming,  with  the  evergreen  oak,  the  characteristic  trees  of  the  val- 
ley. 

April  8. — After  a  ride  of  two  miles  through  brush  and  open  groves, 
we  reached  a  large  stream,  called  the  River  of  the  Lake  [King's 
River],  resembling  in  size  the  San  Joaquin,  and  being  about  100 
yards  broad.  This  is  the  principal  tributary  to  the  Tule  lakes,  which 
collect  all  the  waters  in  the  upper  part  of  the  valley.  While  we  were 
searching  for  a  ford,  some  Indians  appeared  on  the  opposite  bank, 
and,  having  discovered  that  we  were  not  Spanish  soldiers,  showed  us 
the  way  to  a  good  ford  several  miles  above. 

The  Indians  of  the  Sierra  make  frequent  descents  upon  the  settle- 
ments west  of  the  Coast  Range,  which  they  keep  constantly  swept 
of  horses;  among  them  are  many  who  are  called  Christian  Indians, 
being  refugees  from  Spanish  missions.  Several  of  these  incursions 
occurred  while  we  were  at  Helvetia.  Occasionally  parties  of  soldiers 
follow  them  across  the  Coast  Range,  but  never  enter  the  Sierra. 

On  the  opposite  side  we  found  some  forty  or  fifty  Indians,  who 
had  come  to  meet  us  from  the  village  below.  We  made  them  some 
small  presents,  and  invited  them  to  accompany  us  to  our  encamp- 
ment, which,  after  about  three  miles  through  fine  oak  groves,  we 
made  on  the  river.  We  made  a  fort,  principally  on  account  of  our 
animals.  The  Indians  brought  otter  skins,  and  several  kinds  of  fish, 
and  bread  made  of  acorns,  to  trade.  Among  them  were  several  who 
had  come  to  live  among  these  Indians  when  the  missions  were 
broken  up,  and  who  spoke  Spanish  fluently.  They  informed  us  that 
they  were  called  by  the  Spaniards  mansitos,  (tame,)  in  distinction 
from  the  wilder  tribes  of  the  mountains.  They,  however,  think  them- 
selves very  insecure,  not  knowing  at  what  unforeseen  moment  the 
sins  of  the  latter  may  be  visited  on  them.  They  are  dark-skinned,  but 
handsome  and  intelligent  Indians,  and  live  principally  on  acorns  and 
the  roots  of  the  tule,  of  which  also  their  huts  are  made. 

By  observation,  the  latitude  of  the  encampment  is  36°  24'  50",  and 
longitude  119°  4r  40". 

April  9. — For  several  miles  we  had  very  bad  travelling  over  what 
is  called  rotten  ground,  in  which  the  horses  were  frequently  up  to 
their  knees.  Making  towards  a  line  of  timber,  we  found  a  small  ford- 


147.  Probably  Salix  melanopsis  Nutt. 

664 


able  stream,  beyond  which  the  country  improved,  and  the  grass  be- 
came excellent ;  and,  crossing  a  number  of  dry  and  timbered  arroyos, 
we  travelled  until  late  through  open  oak  groves,  and  encamped 
among  a  collection  of  streams.  These  were  running  among  rushes 
and  willows;  and,  as  usual,  flocks  of  blackbirds  announced  our  ap- 
proach to  water.  We  have  here  approached  considerably  nearer  to 
the  eastern  Sierra,  which  shows  very  plainly,  still  covered  with 
masses  of  snow,  which  yesterday  and  to-day  has  also  appeared  abun- 
dant on  the  Coast  Range. 

April  10. — To-day  we  made  another  long  journey  of  about  forty 
miles,  through  a  country  uninteresting  and  flat,  with  very  little 
grass  and  a  sandy  soil,  in  which  several  branches  we  crossed  had 
lost  their  water.  In  the  evening  the  face  of  the  country  became  hilly; 
and,  turning  a  few  miles  up  towards  the  mountains,  we  found  a 
good  encampment  on  a  pretty  stream  [White  River]  hidden  among 
the  hills,  and  handsomely  timbered,  principally  with  large  cotton- 
woods,  {populus,  differing  from  any  in  Michaux's  Sylva.)  The 
seed  vessels  of  this  tree  were  now  just  about  bursting. 

Several  Indians  came  down  the  river  to  see  us  in  the  evening; 
we  gave  them  supper,  and  cautioned  them  against  stealing  our 
horses ;  which  they  promised  not  to  attempt. 

April  11. — A  broad  trail  along  the  river  here  takes  out  among  the 
hills.  "Buen  camino,"  (good  road,)  said  one  of  the  Indians,  of 
whom  we  had  inquired  about  the  pass;  and,  following  it  accord- 
ingly, it  conducted  us  beautifully  through  a  very  broken  country,  by 
an  excellent  way,  which,  otherwise,  we  should  have  found  extremely 
bad.  Taken  separately,  the  hills  present  smooth  and  graceful  outlines, 
but,  together,  make  bad  travelling  ground.  Instead  of  grass,  the  whole 
face  of  the  country  is  closely  covered  with  erodium  cicutarium, 
here  only  two  or  three  inches  high.  Its  height  and  beauty  varied 
in  a  remarkable  manner  with  the  locality,  being,  in  many  low  places 
which  we  passed  during  the  day,  around  streams  and  springs,  two 
and  three  feet  in  height.  The  country  had  now  assumed  a  character 
of  aridity;  and  the  luxuriant  green  of  these  little  streams,  wooded 
with  willow,  oak,  or  sycamore,  looked  very  refreshing  among  the 
sandy  hills. 

In  the  evening  we  encamped  on  a  large  creek  [Poso  Creek],  with 
abundant  water.  I  noticed  here  in  bloom,  for  the  first  time  since 
leaving  the  Arkansas  waters,  the  mirabilis  Jalapa. 

April  12. — Along  our  road   to-day  the  country  was  altogether 

665 


sandy,  and  vegetation  meager.  Ephedra  occidentalis,  which  we  had 
first  seen  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Pyramid  lake,  made  its  ap- 
pearance here,  and  in  the  course  of  the  day  became  very  abundant, 
and  in  large  bushes.  Towards  the  close  of  the  afternoon,  we  reached 
a  tolerably  large  river,  which  empties  into  a  small  lake  at  the  head 
of  the  valley;  it  is  about  thirty-five  yards  wide,  with  a  stony  and 
gravelly  bed,  and  the  swiftest  stream  we  have  crossed  since  leaving 
the  bay.^^^  The  bottoms  produced  no  grass,  though  well  timbered 
with  willow  and  cotton  wood;  and,  after  ascending  it  for  several 
miles,  we  made  a  late  encampment  on  a  little  bottom,  with  scanty 
grass.  In  greater  part,  the  vegetation  along  our  road  consisted  now  of 
rare  and  unusual  plants,  among  which  many  were  entirely  new. 

Along  the  bottoms  were  thickets  consisting  of  several  varieties  of 
shrubs,  which  made  here  their  first  appearance;  and  among  these 
was  Garrya  elliptica,  (Lindley,)  a  small  tree  belonging  to  a  very 
peculiar  natural  order,  and,  in  its  general  appearance,  (growing  in 
thickets,)  resembling  willow.  It  now  became  common  along  the 
streams,  frequently  supplying  the  place  of  salix  Ion gi folia. 

April  13. — The  water  was  low,  and  a  few  miles  above  we  forded 
the  river  at  a  rapid,  and  marched  in  a  southeasterFy  direction  over 
a  less  broken  country.  The  mountains  were  now  very  near,  occa- 
sionally looming  out  through  fog.  In  a  few  hours  we  reached  the 
bottom  of  a  creek  without  water,  over  which  the  sandy  beds  were 
dispersed  in  many  branches.  Immediately  where  we  struck  it,  the 
timber  terminated;  and  below,  to  the  right,  it  was  a  broad  bed  of 
dry  and  bare  sands.  There  were  many  tracks  of  Indians  and  horses 
imprinted  in  the  sand,  which,  with  other  indications,  informed  us 
was  the  creek  issuing  from  the  pass,  and  which  on  the  map  we  have 
called  Pass  [Tehachapi]  creek.  We  ascended  a  trail  for  a  few  miles 
along  the  creek,  and  suddenly  found  a  stream  of  water  five  feet 
wide,  running  with  a  lively  current,  but  losing  itself  almost  immedi- 
ately. This  little  stream  showed  plainly  the  manner  in  which  the 
mountain  waters  lose  themselves  in  sand  at  the  eastern  foot  of  the 
Sierra,  leaving  only  a  parched  desert  and  arid  plains  beyond.  The 
stream  enlarged  rapidly,  and  the  timber  became  abundant  as  we  de- 
scended. A  new  species  of  pine  made  its  appearance,  with  several 
kinds  of  oaks,  and  a  variety  of  trees;  and  the  country  changing  its 


148.  JCF  later  named  this  river  and  lake  Kern  River  and  Kern  Lake,  after 
Edward  M.  Kern,  the  topographer  and  artist  for  the  third  expedition. 

666 


appearance  suddenly  and  entirely,  we  found  ourselves  again  travel- 
ling among  the  old  orchard-like  places.  Here  we  selected  a  delightful 
encampment  in  a  handsome  green  oak  hollow,  where,  among  the 
open  bolls  of  the  trees,  was  an  abundant  sward  of  grass  and  pea 
vines.  In  the  evening  a  Christian  Indian  rode  into  the  camp,  well 
dressed,  with  long  spurs,  and  a  sombrero,  and  speaking  Spanish 
fluently.  It  was  an  unexpected  apparition,  and  a  strange  and  pleasant 
sight  in  this  desolate  gorge  of  a  mountain — an  Indian  face,  Spanish 
costume,  jingling  spurs,  and  horse  equipped  after  the  Spanish  man- 
ner. He  informed  me  that  he  belonged  to  one  of  the  [former]  Span- 
ish missions  to  the  south,  distant  two  or  three  days'  ride,  and  that 
he  had  obtained  from  the  priests  leave  to  spend  a  few  days  with  his 
relations  in  the  Sierra.  Having  seen  us  enter  the  pass,  he  had  come 
down  to  visit  us.  He  appeared  familiarly  acquainted  with  the  coun- 
try, and  gave  me  definite  and  clear  information  in  regard  to  the 
desert  region  east  of  the  mountains.  I  had  entered  the  pass  with  a 
strong  disposition  to  vary  my  route,  and  to  travel  directly  across 
towards  the  Great  Salt  lake,  in  the  view  of  obtaining  some  acquaint- 
ance with  the  interior  of  the  Great  Basin,  while  pursuing  a  direct 
course  for  the  frontier;  but  his  representation,  which  described  it  as 
an  arid  and  barren  desert,  that  had  repulsed  by  its  sterility  all  the 
attempts  of  the  Indians  to  penetrate  it,  determined  me  for  the 
present  to  relinquish  the  plan;  and,  agreeably  to  his  advice,  after 
crossing  the  Sierra,  continue  our  intended  route  along  its  eastern 
base  to  the  Spanish  trail.  By  this  route,  a  party  of  six  Indians,  who 
had  come  from  a  great  river  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  desert  to  trade 
with  his  people,  had  just  started  on  their  return.  He  would  himself 
return  the  next  day  to  San  Fernando;  and  as  our  roads  would  be  the 
same  for  two  days,  he  offered  his  services  to  conduct  us  so  far  on  our 
way.  His  offer  was  gladly  accepted.  The  fog,  which  had  somewhat 
interfered  with  views  in  the  valley,  had  entirely  passed  of?,  and  left 
a  clear  sky.  That  which  had  enveloped  us  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  pass  proceeded  evidently  from  fires  kindled  among  the  tulares 
by  Indians  living  near  the  lakes,  and  which  were  intended  to  warn 
those  in  the  mountains  that  there  were  strangers  in  the  valley.  Our 
position  was  in  latitude  35°  17'  XT',  and  longitude  118°  35'  03''. 

April  14. — Our  guide  joined  us  this  morning  on  the  trail;  and, 
arriving  in  a  short  distance  at  an  open  bottom  where  the  creek 
forked,  we  continued  up  the  right-hand  branch,  which  was  enriched 
by  a  profusion  of  flowers,  and  handsomely  wooded  with  sycamore, 

667 


oaks,  Cottonwood,  and  willow,  with  other  trees,  and  some  shrubby 
plants.  In  its  long  strings  of  balls,  this  sycamore  differs  from  that  of 
the  United  States,  and  is  the  platanus  occidentalis  of  Hooker — a  new 
species,  recently  described  among  the  plants  collected  in  the  voyage 
of  the  Sulphur.  The  cottonwood  varied  its  foliage  with  white  tufts, 
and  the  feathery  seeds  were  flying  plentifully  through  the  air.  Goose- 
berries, nearly  ripe,  were  very  abundant  on  the  mountain;  and  as  we 
passed  the  dividing  grounds,  which  were  not  very  easy  to  ascertain, 
the  air  was  filled  with  perfume,  as  if  we  were  entering  a  highly  cul- 
tivated garden;  and,  instead  of  green,  our  pathway  and  the  moun- 
tain sides  were  covered  with  fields  of  yellow  flowers,  which  here  was 
the  prevailing  color.  Our  journey  to-day  was  in  the  midst  of  an  ad- 
vanced spring,  whose  green  and  floral  beauty  offered  a  delightful 
contrast  to  the  sandy  valley  we  had  just  left.  All  the  day,  snow  was 
in  sight  on  the  butt  of  the  mountain,  which  frowned  down  upon  us 
on  the  right;  but  we  beheld  it  now  with  feelings  of  pleasant  security, 
as  we  rode  along  between  green  trees  and  on  flowers,  with  hum- 
ming birds  and  other  feathered  friends  of  the  traveller  enlivening 
the  serene  spring  air.  As  we  reached  the  summit  of  this  beautiful 
pass,^^^  and  obtained  a  view  into  the  eastern  country,  we  saw  at 
once  that  here  was  the  place  to  take  leave  of  all  such  pleasant  scenes 
as  those  around  us.  The  distant  mountains  were  now  bald  rocks 
again;  and  below,  the  land  had  any  color  but  green.  Taking  into 
consideration  the  nature  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  we  found  this  pass 
an  excellent  one  for  horses;  and  with  a  little  labor,  or  perhaps  with 
a  more  perfect  examination  of  the  localities,  it  might  be  made  suf- 
ficiently practicable  for  wagons.  Its  latitude  and  longitude  may  be 
considered  that  of  our  last  encampment,  only  a  few  miles  distant. 
The  elevation  was  not  taken — our  half-wild  cavalcade  making  it  too 
troublesome  to  halt  before  night,  when  once  started.^^^ 
We  here  left  the  waters  of  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  and,  though 


149.  Apparently  not  Tehachapi  Pass,  but  rather  Oak  Creek  Pass,  five  or  six 
air-line  miles  farther  south.  Preuss  told  R.  S.  Williamson,  during  the  Pacific 
Railroad  Survey  of  1853,  that  the  party  had  used  Oak  Creek  Pass,  and  an 
inspection  of  the  area  by  a  later  investigator  (see  johnson)  seems  to  bear 
him  out.  Certainly  it  was  not  Walker  Pass,  some  two  degrees  to  the  north,  as 
JCF  called  it  and  as  earlier  historians  believed  it  to  be. 

150.  On  18  April,  Preuss,  recording  that  the  cavalcade  consisted  of  124  head 
of  stock  and  twenty-one  men  (only  seventeen  of  whom  could  be  counted  on  to 
care  for  the  animals),  wondered  why  the  party  was  burdened  with  so  much 
livestock  (preuss,  125). 

668 


forced  upon  them  contrary  to  my  intentions,  I  cannot  regret  the 
necessity   which   occasioned   the   deviation.   It   made   me   well   ac- 
quainted with  the  great  range  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  of  the  Alta  Cal- 
ifornia, and  showed  that  this  broad  and  elevated  snowy  ridge  was 
a  continuation,  of  the  Cascade  Range  of  Oregon,  between  which 
and  the  ocean  there  is  still  another  and  a  lower  range,  parallel  to 
the  former  and  to  the  coast,  and  which  may  be  called  the  Coast 
Range.  It  also  made  me  well  acquainted  with  the  basin  of  the  San 
Francisco  bay,  and  with  the  two  pretty  rivers  and  their  valleys,  (the 
Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin,)  which  are  tributary  to  that  bay;  and 
cleared  up  some  points  in  geography  on  which  error  had  long  pre- 
vailed. It  had  been  constantly  represented,  as  I  have  already  stated, 
that  the  bay  of  San  Francisco  opened  far  into  the  interior,  by  some 
river  coming  down  from  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  upon 
which  supposed  stream  the  name  of  Rio  Buenaventura  had  been  be- 
stowed. Our  observations  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  in  the  long  distance 
from  the  head  of  the  Sacramento  [Klamath]  to  the  head  of  the  San 
Joaquin,  and  of  the  valley  below  it,  which  collects  all  the  waters  of 
the  San  Francisco  bay,  show  that  this  neither  is  nor  can  be  the  case. 
No  river  from  the  interior  does,  or  can,  cross  the  Sierra  Nevada— 
itself  more  lofty  than  the  Rocky  mountains;  and  as  to  the  Buenaven- 
tura, the  mouth  of  which  seen  on  the  coast  gave  the  idea  and  the 
name  of  the  reputed  great  river,  it  is,  in  fact,  a  small  stream  of  no 
consequence  [Salinas  River],  not  only  below  the  Sierra  Nevada,  but 
actually  below  the  Coast  Range— taking  its  rise  within  half  a  degree 
of  the  ocean,  running  parallel  to  it  for  about  two  degrees,  and  then 
falling  into  the  Pacific  near  Monterey.  There  is  no  opening  from  the 
bay  of  San  Francisco  into  the  interior  of  the  continent.  The  two  rivers 
which  flow  into  it  are  comparatively  short,  and  not  perpendicular  to 
the  coast,  but  lateral  to  it,  and  having  their  heads  towards  Oregon  and 
southern  California.  They  open  lines  of  communication  north  and 
south,  and  not  eastwardly;  and  thus  this  want  of  interior  communi- 
cation from  the  San  Francisco  bay,  now  fully  ascertained,  gives  great 
additional  value  to  the  Columbia,  which  stands  alone  as  the  only 
great  river  on  the  Pacific  slope  of  our  continent  which  leads  from 
the  ocean  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  opens  a  line  of  communica- 
tion from  the  sea  to  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi. 

Four  companeros  joined  our  guide  at  the  pass;  and  two  going 
back  at  noon,  the  others  continued  on  in  company.  Descending  from 
the  hills,  we  reached  a  country  of  fine  grass,  where  the  erodium 

669 


cicutarium  finally  disappeared,  giving  place  to  an  excellent  quality 
of  bunch  grass.  Passing  by  some  springs  where  there  was  a  rich 
sward  of  grass  among  groves  of  large  black  oak,  we  rode  over  a 
plain  on  which  the  guide  pointed  out  a  spot  where  a  refugee  Chris- 
tian Indian  had  been  killed  by  a  party  of  soldiers  which  had  unex- 
pectedly penetrated  into  the  mountains.  Crossing  a  low  sierra,  and 
descending  a  hollow  where  a  spring  gushed  out,  we  were  struck  by 
the  sudden  appearance  of  yucca  trees,^^^  which  gave  a  strange  and 
southern  character  to  the  country,  and  suited  well  with  the  dry  and 
desert  region  we  were  approaching.  Associated  with  the  idea  of  bar- 
ren sands,  their  stiff  and  ungraceful  form  makes  them  to  the  trav- 
eller the  most  repulsive  tree  in  the  vegetable  kingdom.  Following 
the  hollow,  we  shortly  came  upon  a  creek  timbered  with  large  black 
oak,  which  yet  had  not  put  forth  a  leaf.  There  was  a  small  rivulet 
of  running  water,  with  good  grass. 

April  15. — The  Indians  who  had  accompanied  the  guide  re- 
turned this  morning,  and  I  purchased  from  them  a  Spanish  saddle 
and  long  spurs,  as  reminiscences  of  the  time;  and  for  a  few  yards  of 
scarlet  cloth  they  gave  me  a  horse,  which  afterwards  became  food  for 
other  Indians. 

We  continued  a  short  distance  down  the  creek,  in  which  our 
guide  informed  us  that  the  water  very  soon  disappeared,  and  turned 
directly  to  the  southward  along  the  foot  of  the  mountain;  the  trail 
on  which  we  rode  appearing  to  describe  the  eastern  limit  of  travel, 
where  water  and  grass  terminated.  Crossing  a  low  spur,  which  bor- 
dered the  creek,  we  descended  to  a  kind  of  plain  among  the  lower 
spurs;  the  desert  being  in  full  view  on  our  left,  apparently  illimit- 
able. A  hot  mist  lay  over  it  to-day,  through  which  it  had  a  white  and 
glistening  appearance;  here  and  there  a  few  dry-looking  buttes  and 
isolated  black  ridges  rose  suddenly  upon  it.  "There,"  said  our  guide, 
stretching  out  his  hand  towards  it  [the  Mojave  Desert],  "there  are 
the  great  llanos,  (plains;)  no  hay  agua;  no  hay  zacate — nada:  there 
is  neither  water  nor  grass — nothing;  every  animal  that  goes  out  upon 
them,  dies."  It  was  indeed  dismal  to  look  upon,  and  hard  to  conceive 
so  great  a  change  in  so  short  a  distance.  One  might  travel  the  world 
over,  without  finding  a  valley  more  fresh  and  verdant — more  floral 


151.  Yucca  brevijolia  Engelm.  Joshua  tree.  It  is  historically  notable  that  the 
tree  yucca  was  not  described  by  botanists  until  1857,  when  it  was  made  a 
variety  of  Yucca  draconis,  the  dragon  tree  of  Teneriffe,  by  Torrey.  Engelmann 
gave  it  its  present  botanical  name  in  1871. 

670 


and  sylvan — more  alive  with  birds  and  animals — more  bounteously 
watered — than  we  had  left  in  the  San  Joaquin:  here,  within  a  few 
miles  ride,  a  vast  desert  plain  spread  before  us,  from  which  the  bold- 
est traveller  turned  away  in  despair. 

Directly  in  front  of  us,  at  some  distance  to  the  southward,  and 
running  out  in  an  easterly  direction  from  the  mountains,  stretched 
a  sierra,  having  at  the  eastern  end  (perhaps  50  miles  distant)  some 
snowy  peaks,  on  which,  by  the  information  of  our  guide,  snow 
resteci  all  the  year  [San  Gabriel  and  San  Bernardino  Mountains]. 

Our  cavalcade  made  a  strange  and  grotesque  appearance;  and  it 
was  impossible  to  avoid  reflecting  upon  our  position  and  composi- 
tion in  this  remote  solitude.  Within  two  degrees  of  the  Pacific  ocean; 
already  far  south  of  the  latitude  of  Monterey;  and  still  forced  on 
south  by  a  desert  on  one  hand,  and  a  mountain  range  on  the  other; 
guided  by  a  civilized  Indian,  attended  by  two  wild  ones  from  the 
Sierra;  a  Chinook  from  the  Columbia;  and  our  own  mixture  of 
American,  French,  German — all  armed ;  four  or  five  languages  heard 
at  once;  above  a  hundred  horses  and  mules,  half  wild;  American, 
Spanish,  and  Indian  dresses  and  equipments  intermingled — such 
was  our  composition.  Our  march  was  a  sort  of  procession.  Scouts 
ahead,  and  on  the  flanks;  a  front  and  rear  division;  the  pack  animals, 
baggage,  and  horned  cattle,  in  the  centre;  and  the  whole  stretching 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  along  our  dreary  path.  In  this  form  we  jour- 
neyed; looking  more  like  we  belonged  to  Asia  than  to  the  United 
States  of  America. 

We  continued  in  a  southerly  direction  across  the  plain,  to  which, 
as  well  as  to  all  the  country  so  far  as  we  could  see,  the  yucca  trees 
gave  a  strange  and  singular  character.  Several  new  plants  appeared, 
among  which  was  a  zygophyllaceous  shrub  {zygophyllum  Cali- 
jornicum,  Torr.  &  Frem.)  sometimes  10  feet  in  height;  in  form,  and 
in  the  pliancy  of  its  branches,  it  is  rather  a  graceful  plant.  Its  leaves 
are  small,  covered  with  a  resinous  substance;  and,  particularly  when 
bruised  and  crushed,  exhale  a  singular  but  very  agreeable  and  re- 
freshing odor.^'^"  This  shrub  and  the  yucca,  with  many  varieties  of 
cactus,  make  the  characteristic  features  in  the  vegetation  for  a  long 
distance  to  the  eastward.  Along  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  20  miles 
to  the  southward,  red  stripes  of  flowers  were  visible  during  the 
morning,  which  we  supposed  to  be  variegated  sandstones.  We  rode 


152.  Larrea  glutinosa  Engelm.  Creosote  bush. 

671 


rapidly  during  the  day,  and  in  the  afternoon  emerged  from  the 
yucca  forest  at  the  foot  of  an  outlier  of  the  Sierra  before  us,  and 
came  among  the  fields  of  flowers  we  had  seen  in  the  morning,  which 
consisted  principally  of  the  rich  orange-colored  Californian  poppy, 
mingled  with  other  flowers  of  brighter  tints.  Reaching  the  top  of 
the  spur,  which  was  covered  with  fine  bunch  grass,  and  where  the 
hills  were  very  green,  our  guide  pointed  to  a  small  hollow  in  the 
mountain  before  us,  saying,  "a  este  piedra  hay  agua."  He  appeared 
to  know  every  nook  in  the  country.  We  continued  our  beautiful 
road,  and  reached  a  spring  in  the  slope,  at  the  foot  of  the  ridge, 
running  in  a  green  ravine,  among  granite  boulders;  here  nightshade, 
and  borders  of  buckwheat,^"^  with  their  white  blossoms  around  the 
granite  rocks,  attracted  our  notice  as  familiar  plants.  Several  ante- 
lopes were  seen  among  the  hills,  and  some  large  hares.  Men  were 
sent  back  this  evening  in  search  of  a  wild  mule  with  a  valuable 
pack,  which  had  managed  (as  they  frequently  do)  to  hide  itself 
along  the  road. 

By  observation,  the  latitude  of  the  camp  is  34°  41' 42";  and  longi- 
tude 118°  20' 00".  The  next  day  the  men  returned  with  the  mule. 

April  Y7. — Crossing  the  ridge  by  a  beautiful  pass  of  hollows,  where 
several  deer  broke  out  of  the  thickets,  we  emerged  at  a  small  salt 
lake  [Elizabeth  Lake]  in  a  vallon  lying  nearly  east  and  west,  where 
a  trail  from  the  mission  of  San  Buenaventura  comes  in.  The  lake  is 
about  1,200  yards  in  diameter;  surrounded  on  the  margin  by  a  white 
salty  border,  which,  by  the  smell,  reminded  us  slightly  of  Lake 
Abert.  There  are  some  cottonwoods,  with  willow  and  elder,  around 
the  lake;  and  the  water  is  a  little  salt,  although  not  entirely  unfit  for 
drinking.  Here  we  turned  directly  to  the  eastward,  along  the  trail, 
which,  from  being  seldom  used,  is  almost  imperceptible;  and,  after 
travelling  a  few  miles,  our  guide  halted,  and,  pointing  to  the  hardly 
visible  trail,  "aqui  es  camina,"  said  he,  "no  se  pierde — va  siempre" 
He  pointed  out  a  black  butte  on  the  plain  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain, where  we  could  find  water  to  encamp  at  night;  and,  giving 
him  a  present  of  knives  and  scarlet  cloth,  we  shook  hands  and 
parted.  He  bore  off  south,  and  in  a  day's  ride  would  arrive  at  San 
Fernando,  one  of  several  missions  in  this  part  of  California,  where 
the  country  is  so  beautiful  that  it  is  considered  a  paradise,  and  the 


153.  The  nightshade  is  Solatium  xanti  Gray,  and  the  buckwheat  Eriogonum 
fasciculatum  Benth. 

672 


name  of  its  principal  town  {Puebla  de  los  Angeles)  would  make  it 
angelic.  We  continued  on  through  a  succession  of  valleys,  and  came 
into  a  most  beautiful  spot  of  flower  fields:  instead  of  green,  the  hills 
were  purple  and  orange,  with  unbroken  beds,  into  which  each  color 
was  separately  gathered.  A  pale  straw  color,  with  a  bright  yellow, 
the  rich  red  orange  of  the  poppy  mingled  with  fields  of  purple, 
covered  the  spot  with  a  floral  beauty;  and,  on  the  border  of  the 
sandy  deserts,  seemed  to  invite  the  traveller  to  go  no  farther.  Riding 
along  through  the  perfumed  air,  we  soon  after  entered  a  defile  over- 
grown with  the  ominous  artemisia  tridentata,  which  conducted  us 
into  a  sandy  plain  covered  more  or  less  densely  with  forests  of  yucca. 

Having  now  the  snowy  ridge  on  our  right,  we  continued  our  way 
towards  a  dark  hutte  belonging  to  a  low  sierra  in  the  plain,  and 
which  our  guide  had  pointed  out  for  a  landmark.  Late  in  the  day  the 
familiar  growth  of  cottonwood,  a  line  of  which  was  visible  ahead, 
indicated  our  approach  to  a  creek,  which  we  reached  where  the 
water  spread  out  into  sands,  and  a  little  below  sank  entirely.  Here 
our  guide  had  intended  we  should  pass  the  night;  but  there  was  not 
a  blade  of  grass,  and,  hoping  to  find  nearer  the  mountain  a  little  for 
the  night,  we  turned  up  the  stream.  A  hundred  yards  above,  we 
found  the  creek  a  fine  stream,  16  feet  wide,  with  a  swift  current.  A 
dark  night  overtook  us  when  we  reached  the  hills  at  the  foot  of  the 
ridge,  and  we  were  obliged  to  encamp  without  grass;  tying  up  what 
animals  we  could  secure  in  the  darkness,  the  greater  part  of  the  wild 
ones  having  free  range  for  the  night.  Here  the  stream  was  two  feet 
deep,  swift  and  clear,  issuing  from  a  neighboring  snow  peak.  A  few 
miles  before  reaching  this  creek,  we  had  crossed  a  broad  dry  river 
bed,  which,  nearer  the  hills,  the  hunters  had  found  a  bold  and  hand- 
some stream. 

April  18. — Some  parties  were  engaged  in  hunting  up  the  scattered 
horses,  and  others  in  searching  for  grass  above;  both  were  successful, 
and  late  in  the  day  we  encamped  among  some  spring  heads  of  the 
river,  in  a  hollow  which  was  covered  with  only  tolerably  good 
grasses,  the  lower  ground  being  entirely  overgrown  with  large 
bunches  of  the  coarse  stiff  grass,  {carex  sitchensis.) 

Our  latitude,  by  observation,  was  34°  27' 03";  and  longitude  117° 
13'  00". 

Travelling  close  along  the  mountain,  we  followed  up,  in  the  after- 
noon of  the  19th,  another  stream,  in  hopes  to  find  a  grass  patch  like 
that  of  the  previous  day,  but  were  deceived;  except  some  scattered 

673 


bunch  grass,  there  was  nothing  but  rock  and  sand;  and  even  the 
fertihty  of  the  mountain  seemed  withered  by  the  air  of  the  desert. 
Among  the  few  trees  was  the  nut  pine,  {pinus  monophyllus.) 

Our  road  the  next  day  was  still  in  an  easterly  direction  along  the 
ridge,  over  very  bad  travelling  ground,  broken  and  confounded 
with  crippled  trees  and  shrubs;  and,  after  a  difficult  march  of  18 
miles,  a  general  shout  announced  that  we  had  struck  the  object  of 
our  search — the  Spanish  trail — which  here  was  running  directly 
north/^^  The  road  itself,  and  its  course,  were  equally  happy  dis- 
coveries to  us.  Since  the  middle  of  December  we  had  continually 
been  forced  south  by  mountains  and  by  deserts,  and  now  would 
have  to  make  six  degrees  of  northing,  to  regain  the  latitude  on 
which  we  wished  to  cross  the  Rocky  mountains.  The  course  of  the 
road,  therefore,  was  what  we  wanted;  and,  once  more,  we  felt  like 
going  homewards.  A  road  to  travel  on,  and  the  right  course  to  go, 
were  joyful  consolations  to  us;  and  our  animals  enjoyed  the  beaten 
track  like  ourselves.  Relieved  from  the  rocks  and  brush,  our  wild 
mules  started  ofif  at  a  rapid  rate,  and  in  15  miles  we  reached  a  con- 
siderable river/''^  timbered  with  cottonwood  and  willow,  where  we 
found  a  bottom  of  tolerable  grass.  As  the  animals  had  suffered  a 
great  deal  in  the  last  few  days,  I  remained  here  all  next  day,  to  al- 
low them  the  necessary  repose;  and  it  was  now  necessary,  at  every 
favorable  place,  to  make  a  little  halt.  Between  us  and  the  Colorado 
river  we  were  aware  that  the  country  was  extremely  poor  in  grass, 
and  scarce  for  water,  there  being  many  jornadas,  (days'  journey,)  or 
long  stretches  of  40  to  60  miles,  without  water,  where  the  road  was 
marked  by  bones  of  animals. 

Although  in  California  we  had  met  with  people  who  had  passed 
over  this  trail,  we  had  been  able  to  obtain  no  correct  information 
about  it ;  and  the  greater  part  of  what  we  had  heard  was  found  to  be 
only  a  tissue  of  falsehoods.  The  rivers  that  we  found  on  it  were 
never  mentioned,  and  others,  particularly  described  in  name  and 


154.  JCF  struck  the  Spanish  Trail  a  few  miles  north  of  Cajon  Pass,  where 
the  trail  came  through  from  Los  Angeles.  Because  the  Hafens  have  carefully 
annotated  the  JCF  route  as  far  as  Little  Salt  Lake,  we  shall  cite  their  work  and 
offer  locations  more  frequently  than  we  might  otherwise  do  on  an  established 
trail.  We  have  also  profited,  as  always,  from  our  correspondence  with  Dale  L. 
Morgan. 

155.  He  is  now  on  the  Mojave  River,  which  he  reached  just  above  present 
Oro  Grande,  about  six  miles  northwest  of  Victorville  (hafen  &  hafen,  287). 
JCF  calls  the  river  the  Mohahve. 

674 


locality,  were  subsequently  seen  in  another  part  of  the  country.  It 
was  described  as  a  tolerably  good  sandy  road,  with  so  little  rock  as 
scarcely  to  require  the  animals  to  be  shod;  and  we  found  it  the 
roughest  and  rockiest  road  we  had  ever  seen  in  the  country,  and 
which  nearly  destroyed  our  band  of  fine  mules  and  horses.  Many 
animals  are  destroyed  on  it  every  year  by  a  disease  called  the  foot 
evil;  and  a  traveller  should  never  venture  on  it  without  having  his 
animals  well  shod,  and  also  carrying  extra  shoes. 

Latitude  34°  34'  11";  and  longitude  117°  13^00". 

The  morning  of  the  22d  was  clear  and  bright,  and  a  snowy  peak 
to  the  southward  shone  out  high  and  sharply  defined.  As  has  been 
usual  since  we  crossed  the  mountains  and  descended  into  the  hot 
plains,  we  had  a  gale  of  wind.  We  travelled  down  the  right  bank  of 
the  stream  [Mojave  River],  over  sands  which  are  somewhat  loose, 
and  have  no  verdure,  but  are  occupied  by  various  shrubs.  A  clear 
bold  stream,  60  feet  wide,  and  several  feet  deep,  had  a  strange  ap- 
pearance, running  between  perfecdy  naked  banks  of  sand.  The  eye, 
however,  is  somewhat  relieved  by  willows,  and  the  beautiful  green  of 
the  sweet  cottonwoods  with  which  it  is  well  wooded.  As  we  followed 
along  its  course,  the  river,  instead  of  growing  constantly  larger, 
gradually  dwindled  away,  as  it  was  absorbed  by  the  sand.  We  were 
now  careful  to  take  the  old  camping  places  of  the  annual  Santa  Fe 
caravans,  which,  luckily  for  us,  had  not  yet  made  their  yearly  pas- 
sage. A  drove  of  several  thousand  horses  and  mules  would  entirely 
have  swept  away  the  scanty  grass  at  the  watering  places,  and  we 
should  have  been  obliged  to  leave  the  road  to  obtain  subsistence  for 
our  animals.  After  riding  20  miles  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  we 
found  an  old  encampment,  where  we  halted.^'^^ 

By  observation,  the  elevation  of  this  encampment  is  2,250  feet. 

April  23.— The  trail  followed  still  along  the  river,  which,  in  the 
course  of  the  morning,  entirely  disappeared.  We  continued  along  the 
dry  bed,  in  which,  after  an  interval  of  about  16  miles,  the  water  re- 
appeared in  some  low  places,  well  timbered  with  cottonwood  and 
willow,  where  was  another  of  the  customary  camping  grounds 


157 


156.  About  sixteen  miles  southwest  of  Barstow,  Calif.,  near  a  railway  sta- 
tion named  Wild. 

157.  Although  he  mentions  marching  only  sixteen  miles,  his  table  of  dis- 
tances records  thirty-three.  He  passed  the  sites  of  Barstow  and  Daggett,  Calif., 
to  a  point  about  five  miles  below  Daggett,  southeast  of  present  Yermo.  His 
map  shows  that  he  crossed  to  the  north  bank  at  present  Barstow. 

675 


Here  a  party  of  six  Indians  came  into  camp,  poor  and  hungry,  and 
quite  in  keeping  with  the  character  of  the  country.  Their  arms  were 
bows  of  unusual  length,  and  each  had  a  large  gourd,  strengthened 
with  meshes  of  cord,  in  which  he  carried  water.  They  proved  to  be 
the  Mohahve  Indians  mentioned  by  our  recent  guide;  and  from  one 
of  them,  who  spoke  Spanish  fluently,  I  obtained  some  interesting  in- 
formation, which  I  would  be  glad  to  introduce  here.  An  account  of 
the  people  inhabiting  this  region  would  undoubtedly  possess  interest 
for  the  civilized  world.  Our  journey  homeward  was  fruitful  in  inci- 
dent; and  the  country  through  which  we  travelled,  although  a  desert, 
afforded  much  to  excite  the  curiosity  of  the  botanist;  but  limited 
time,  and  the  rapidly  advancing  season  for  active  operations,  oblige 
me  to  omit  all  extended  descriptions,  and  hurry  briefly  to  the  conclu- 
sion of  this  report. 

The  Indian  who  spoke  Spanish  had  been  educated  for  a  number 
of  years  at  one  of  the  Spanish  missions,  and,  at  the  breaking  up  of 
those  establishments,  had  returned  to  the  mountains,  where  he  had 
been  found  by  a  party  of  Mohahve  (sometimes  called  Amuchaba) 
Indians,  among  whom  he  had  ever  since  resided. 

He  spoke  of  the  leader  of  the  present  party  as  "mi  amo,"  (my  mas- 
ter.) He  said  they  lived  upon  a  large  river  in  the  southeast,  which 
the  "soldiers  called  the  Rio  Colorado;"  but  that,  formerly,  a  portion 
of  them  lived  upon  this  river,  and  among  the  mountains  which  had 
bounded  the  river  valley  to  the  northward  during  the  day,  and  that 
here  along  the  river  they  had  raised  various  kinds  of  melons.  They 
sometimes  came  over  to  trade  with  the  Indians  of  the  Sierra,  bringing 
with  them  blankets  and  goods  manufactured  by  the  Monquis  [Hopi] 
and  other  Colorado  [River]  Indians.  They  rarely  carried  home 
horses,  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  getting  them  across  the  desert, 
and  of  guarding  them  afterwards  from  the  Pa-utah  Indians,  who 
inhabit  the  Sierra,  at  the  head  of  the  Rio  Virgen,  (river  of  the 
Virgin.) 

He  informed  us  that,  a  short  distance  below,  this  river  finally  dis- 
appeared. The  two  different  portions  in  which  water  is  found  had 
received  from  the  priests  two  different  names;  and  subsequently  I 
heard  it  called  by  the  Spaniards  the  Rio  de  las  Animas,  but  on  the 
map  we  have  called  it  the  Mohahve  river. 

April  24.— We  continued  down  the  stream  (or  rather  its  bed)  for 
about  eight  miles,  where  there  was  water  still  in  several  holes,  and 


676 


encamped.^^^  The  caravans  somtimes  continued  below,  to  the  end  of 
the  river,  from  which  there  is  a  very  long  Jornada  of  perhaps  sixty 
miles,  without  water.  Here  a  singular  and  new  species  of  acacia,  with 
spiral  pods  or  seed  vessels,  made  its  first  appearance;  becoming 
henceforward,  for  a  considerable  distance,  a  characteristic  tree.  It  was 
here  comparatively  large,  being  about  20  feet  in  height,  with  a  full 
and  spreading  top,  the  lower  branches  declining  towards  the  ground. 
It  afterwards  occurred  of  smaller  size,  frequently  in  groves,  and  is 
very  fragrant.  It  has  been  called  by  Dr.  Torrey  spirolobium  odora- 
tum}^^  The  zygophyllaceous  shrub  had  been  constantly  characteristic 
of  the  plains  along  the  river;  and  here,  among  many  new  plants,  a 
new  and  very  remarkable  species  of  eriogonum  {eriogonum  in- 
fiatum,  Torr.  &  Frem.)  made  its  first  appearance. 

Our  cattle  had  become  so  tired  and  poor  by  this  fatiguing  travel- 
ling, that  three  of  them  were  killed  here,  and  the  meat  dried.  The 
Indians  had  now  an  occasion  for  a  great  feast,  and  were  occupied 
the  remainder  of  the  day  and  all  the  night  in  cooking  and  eating. 
There  was  no  part  of  the  animal  for  which  they  did  not  find  some 
use,  except  the  bones.  In  the  afternoon  we  were  surprised  by  the  sud- 
den appearance  in  the  camp  of  two  Mexicans — a  man  and  a  boy.  The 
name  of  the  man  was  Andreas  Fuentes;  and  that  of  the  boy,  (a  hand- 
some lad,  11  years  old,)  Pablo  Hernandez.  They  belonged  to  a  party 
consisting  of  six  persons,  the  remaining  four  being  the  wife  of 
Fuentes,  the  father  and  mother  of  Pablo,  and  Santiago  Giacome,  a 
resident  of  New  Mexico.^**^  With  a  cavalcade  of  about  thirty  horses, 
they  had  come  out  from  Puebla  de  los  Angeles,  near  the  coast,  under 
the  guidance  of  Giacome,  in  advance  of  the  great  caravan,  in  order  to 
travel  more  at  leisure,  and  obtain  better  grass.  Having  advanced  as 
far  into  the  desert  as  was  considered  consistent  with  their  safety,  they 


158.  Leaving  the  Spanish  Trail  temporarily,  the  expedition  today  continues 
down  the  river  to  the  site  of  what  was  later  Camp  Cady,  east  of  the  railroad 
station  of  Harvard  (hafen  &  hafen,  288). 

Dale  L.  Morgan  says  that  JCF's  reference  to  caravans  continuing  down  to  the 
end  of  the  river — Soda  Lake — then  making  a  Jornada  (perhaps  northward  to 
the  Amargosa  River),  is  the  only  reference  he  has  seen  on  the  subject. 

159.  Now  Prosopis  odorata,  with  a  number  of  common  names  such  as 
screwbean  mesquite,  screwpod  mesquite,  and  tornillo  (mc  kelvey,  873). 

160.  Santiago  (Jiacome  we  have  not  identified.  There  is  little  additional 
information  on  Andreas  Fuentes  and  Pablo  Hernandez,  but  see  p.  724,  notes 
193  and  194. 


677 


halted  at  the  Archilette,  one  of  the  customary  camping  grounds, 
about  80  miles  from  our  encampment,  where  there  is  a  spring  of 
good  water,  with  sufficient  grass;  and  concluded  to  await  there  the 
arrival  of  the  great  caravan.  Several  Indians  were  soon  discovered 
lurking  about  the  camp,  who,  in  a  day  or  two  after,  came  in,  and, 
after  behaving  in  a  very  friendly  manner,  took  their  leave,  without 
awakening  any  suspicions.  Their  deportment  begat  a  security  which 
proved  fatal.  In  a  few  days  afterwards,  suddenly  a  party  of  about  one 
hundred  Indians  appeared  in  sight,  advancing  towards  the  camp.  It 
was  too  late,  or  they  seemed  not  to  have  presence  of  mind  to  take 
proper  measures  of  safety;  and  the  Indians  charged  down  into  their 
camp,  shouting  as  they  advanced,  and  discharging  flights  of  arrows. 
Pablo  and  Fuentes  were  on  horse  guard  at  the  time,  and  mounted, 
according  to  the  custom  of  the  country.  One  of  the  principal  objects 
of  the  Indians  was  to  get  possession  of  the  horses,  and  part  of  them 
immediately  surrounded  the  band;  but,  in  obedience  to  the  shouts  of 
Giacome,  Fuentes  drove  the  animals  over  and  through  the  assailants, 
in  spite  of  their  arrows;  and,  abandoning  the  rest  to  their  fate,  car- 
ried them  off  at  speed  across  the  plain.  Knowing  that  they  would  be 
pursued  by  the  Indians,  without  making  any  halt  except  to  shift  their 
saddles  to  other  horses,  they  drove  them  on  for  about  sixty  miles,  and 
this  morning  left  them  at  a  watering  place  on  the  trail,  called  Agua  de 
Tomaso.  Without  giving  themselves  any  time  for  rest,  they  hurried  on, 
hoping  to  meet  the  Spanish  caravan,  when  they  discovered  my  camp. 
I  received  them  kindly,  taking  them  into  my  own  mess,  and  prom- 
ised them  such  aid  as  circumstances  might  put  it  in  my  power  to 
give. 

April  25. — We  left  the  river  abruptly,  and,  turning  to  the  north,  re- 
gained in  a  few  miles  the  main  trail,  (which  had  left  the  river  sooner 
than  ourselves,)  and  continued  our  way  across  a  lower  ridge  of  the 
mountain,  through  a  miserable  tract  of  sand  and  gravel.  We  crossed 
at  intervals  the  broad  beds  of  dry  gullies,  where  in  the  season  of 
rains  and  melting  snows  there  would  be  brooks  or  rivulets;  and  at 
one  of  these,  where  there  was  no  indication  of  water,  were  several 
freshly-dug  holes,  in  which  there  was  water  at  the  depth  of  two  feet. 
These  holes  had  been  dug  by  the  wolves  [coyotes],  whose  keen  sense 
of  smell  had  scented  the  water  under  the  dry  sand.  They  were  nice 
little  wells,  narrow,  and  dug  straight  down,  and  we  got  pleasant 
water  out  of  them. 

The  country  had  now  assumed  the  character  of  an  elevated  and 

678 


mountainous  desert;  its  general  features  being  black,  rocky  ridges, 
bald,  and  destitute  of  timber,  with  sandy  basins  between.  Where  the 
sides  of  these  ridges  are  washed  by  gullies,  the  plains  below  are 
strewed  with  beds  of  large  pebbles  or  rolled  stones,  destructive  to  our 
soft-footed  animals,  accustomed  to  the  grassy  plains  of  the  Sacra- 
mento valley.  Through  these  sandy  basins  sometimes  struggled  a 
scanty  stream,  or  occurred  a  hole  of  water,  which  furnished  camping 
grounds  for  travellers.  Frequently  in  our  journey  across,  snow  was 
visible  on  the  surrounding  mountains;  but  their  waters  rarely  reached 
the  sandy  plain  below,  where  we  toiled  along,  oppressed  with  thirst 
and  a  burning  sun.  But,  throughout  this  nakedness  of  sand  and 
gravel,  were  many  beautiful  plants  and  flowering  shrubs,  which  oc- 
curred in  many  new  species,  and  with  greater  variety  than  we  had 
been  accustomed  to  see  in  the  most  luxuriant  prairie  countries;  this 
was  a  peculiarity  of  this  desert.  Even  where  no  grass  would  take  root, 
the  naked  sand  would  bloom  with  some  rich  and  rare  flower,  which 
found  its  appropriate  home  in  the  arid  and  barren  spot. 

Scattered  over  the  plain,  and  tolerably  abundant,  was  a  handsome 
leguminous  shrub,  three  or  four  feet  high,  with  fine  bright-purple 
flowers.  It  is  a  new  psoralea,  and  occurred  frequently  henceforward 
along  our  road.^^^ 

Beyond  the  first  ridge,  our  road  bore  a  little  to  the  east  of  north, 
towards  a  gap  in  a  higher  line  of  mountains;  and,  after  travelling 
about  twenty-five  miles,  we  arrived  at  the  Agua  de  Tomaso — the 
spring  where  the  horses  had  been  left;  but,  as  we  expected,  they  were 
gone.  A  brief  examination  of  the  ground  convinced  us  that  they  had 
been  driven  off  by  the  Indians.  Carson  and  Godey  volunteered  with 
the  Mexican  to  pursue  them;  and,  well  mounted,  the  three  set  off  on 
the  trail.  At  this  stopping  place  there  were  a  few  bushes  and  very 
little  grass.  Its  water  was  a  pool;  but  near  by  was  a  spring,  which  had 
been  dug  out  by  Indians  or  travellers.  Its  water  was  cool — a  great 
refreshment  to  us  under  a  burning  sun.^*'^ 

In  the  evening  Fuentes  returned,  his  horse  having  failed;  but  Car- 
son and  Godey  had  continued  the  pursuit. 


161.  Instead  of  a  new  Psoralea  it  was  a  Dalea,  and  probably  D.  jremontii, 
a  species  collected  in  about  the  same  region  by  the  later  Death  Valley  expedi- 
tion (parish,  61). 

162.  Back  to  the  main  Spanish  Trail,  ascending  the  shoulder  of  Alvord 
Mountain  via  Spanish  Canyon  and  traveling  twenty-five  miles  to  Agua  de 
Tomaso  [Bitter  Spring]. 

679 


I  observed  to-night  an  occultation  of  a^  Cancri,  at  the  dark  Umb  of 
the  moon,  which  gives  for  the  longitude  of  the  place  116°  23' 28"; 
the  latitude,  by  observation,  is  35°  13'  08".  From  Helvetia  to  this 
place,  the  positions  along  the  intervening  line  are  laid  down  with  the 
longitudes  obtained  from  the  chronometer,  which  appears  to  have 
retained  its  rate  remarkably  well;  but  henceforward,  to  the  end  of 
the  journey,  the  few  longitudes  given  are  absolute,  depending  upon 
a  subsequent  occultation  and  eclipses  of  the  satellites. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  a  war-whoop  was  heard,  such  as 
Indians  make  when  returning  from  a  victorious  enterprise ;  and  soon 
Carson  and  Godey  appeared,  driving  before  them  a  band  of  horses, 
recognized  by  Fuentes  to  be  part  of  those  they  had  lost.  Two  bloody 
scalps,  dangling  from  the  end  of  Godey's  gun,  announced  that  they 
had  overtaken  the  Indians  as  well  as  the  horses.  They  informed  us, 
that  after  Fuentes  left  them,  from  the  failure  of  his  horse,  they  con- 
tinued the  pursuit  alone,  and  towards  nightfall  entered  the  moun- 
tains, into  which  the  trail  led.  After  sunset  the  moon  gave  light,  and 
they  followed  the  trail  by  moonshine  until  late  in  the  night,  when  it 
entered  a  narrow  defile,  and  was  difficult  to  follow.  Afraid  of  losing 
it  in  the  darkness  of  the  defile,  they  tied  up  their  horses,  struck  no 
fire,  and  lay  down  to  sleep  in  silence  and  in  darkness.  Here  they  lay 
from  midnight  till  morning.  At  daylight  they  resumed  the  pursuit, 
and  about  sunrise  discovered  the  horses;  and,  immediately  dismount- 
ing and  tying  up  their  own,  they  crept  cautiously  to  a  rising  ground 
which  intervened,  from  the  crest  of  which  they  perceived  the  en- 
campment of  four  lodges  close  by.  They  proceeded  quietly,  and  had 
got  within  thirty  or  forty  yards  of  their  object,  when  a  movement 
among  the  horses  discovered  them  to  the  Indians;  giving  the  war 
shout,  they  instantly  charged  into  the  camp,  regardless  of  the  num- 
ber which  the  four  lodges  would  imply.  The  Indians  received  them 
with  a  flight  of  arrows  shot  from  their  long  bows,  one  of  which 
passed  through  Godey's  shirt  collar,  barely  missing  the  neck;  our 
men  fired  their  rifles  upon  a  steady  aim,  and  rushed  in.  Two  Indians 
were  stretched  on  the  ground,  fatally  pierced  with  bullets;  the  rest 
fled,  except  a  lad  that  was  captured.  The  scalps  of  the  fallen  were 
instantly  stripped  off;  but  in  the  process,  one  of  them,  who  had  two 
balls  through  his  body,  sprung  to  his  feet,  the  blood  streaming  from 
his  skinned  head,  and  uttering  a  hideous  howl.  An  old  squaw,  pos- 
sibly his  mother,  stopped  and  looked  back  from  the  mountain  side 
she  was  climbing,  threatening  and  lamenting.  The  frightful  spectacle 

68o 


appalled  the  stout  hearts  of  our  men ;  but  they  did  what  humanity  re- 
quired, and  quickly  terminated  the  agonies  of  the  gory  savage.  They 
were  now  masters  of  the  camp,  which  was  a  pretty  little  recess  in  the 
mountain,  with  a  fine  spring,  and  apparently  safe  from  all  invasion. 
Great  preparations  had  been  made  to  feast  a  large  party,  for  it  was 
a  very  proper  place  for  a  rendezvous,  and  for  the  celebration  of  such 
orgies  as  robbers  of  the  desert  would  delight  in.  Several  of  the  best 
horses  had  been  killed,  skinned,  and  cut  up;  for  the  Indians  living  in 
mountains,  and  only  coming  into  the  plains  to  rob  and  murder, 
make  no  other  use  of  horses  than  to  eat  them.  Large  earthen  vessels 
were  on  the  fire,  boiling  and  stewing  the  horse  beef;  and  several  bas- 
kets, containing  fifty  or  sixty  pairs  of  moccasins,  indicated  the  pres- 
ence, or  expectation,  of  a  considerable  party.  They  released  the  boy, 
who  had  given  strong  evidence  of  the  stoicism,  or  something  else,  of 
the  savage  character,  in  commencing  his  breakfast  upon  a  horse's 
head  as  soon  as  he  found  he  was  not  to  be  killed,  but  only  tied  as  a 
prisoner.  Their  object  accomplished,  our  men  gathered  up  all  the 
surviving  horses,  fifteen  in  number,  returned  upon  their  trail,  and  re- 
joined us  at  our  camp  in  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day.  They  had  rode 
about  one  hundred  miles  in  the  pursuit  and  return,  and  all  in  thirty 
hours.  The  time,  place,  object,  and  numbers,  considered,  this  expedi- 
tion of  Carson  and  Godey  may  be  considered  among  the  boldest  and 
most  disinterested  which  the  annals  of  western  adventure,  so  full  of 
daring  deeds,  can  present.  Two  men,  in  a  savage  desert,  pursue  day 
and  night  an  unknown  body  of  Indians  into  the  defiles  of  an  un- 
known mountain — attack  them  on  sight,  without  counting  numbers 
— and  defeat  them  in  an  instant — and  for  what  ?  To  punish  the  rob- 
bers of  the  desert,  and  to  avenge  the  wrongs  of  Mexicans  whom  they 
did  not  know.  I  repeat:  it  was  Carson  and  Godey  who  did  this — the 
former  an  American,  born  in  the  Boonslick  country  of  Missouri;  the 
latter  a  Frenchman,  born  in  St.  Louis — and  both  trained  to  western 
enterprise  from  early  life. 


163 


163.  While  JCF  rejoiced  that  Carson  and  Godey  had  been  able  to  give  a 
"useful  lesson  to  these  American  Arabs"  (p.  684),  Preuss  thought  such 
butchery  disgusting.  "Are  these  whites  not  much  worse  than  Indians?  The 
more  noble  Indian  takes  from  the  killed  enemy  only  a  piece  of  the  scalp  as 
large  as  a  dollar,  somewhat  like  the  tonsure  of  a  priest.  These  two  heroes,  who 
shot  the  Indians  [while]  creeping  up  on  them  from  behind,  brought  along  the 
entire  scalp.  The  Indians  are  braver  in  a  similar  situation.  Before  they  shoot, 
they  raise  a  yelling  war  whoop.  Kit  and  Alex  sneaked,  like  cats,  as  close 
as  possible.  Kit  shot  an  Indian  in  the  back  .  .  ."  (preuss,  127). 

68i 


By  the  information  of  Fuentes,  we  had  now  to  make  a  long 
stretch  of  forty  or  fifty  miles  across  a  plain  which  lay  between  us  and 
the  next  possible  camp;  and  we  resumed  our  journey  late  in  the 
afternoon,  with  the  intention  of  travelling  through  the  night,  and 
avoiding  the  excessive  heat  of  the  day,  which  was  oppressive  to  our 
animals.  For  several  hours  we  travelled  across  a  high  plain,  passing, 
at  the  opposite  side,  through  a  canon  by  the  bed  of  a  creek  running 
northwardly  into  a  small  lake  beyond,  and  both  of  them  being 
dry.  We  had  a  warm,  moonshiny  night;  and,  travelling  directly 
towards  the  north  star,  we  journeyed  now  across  an  open  plain 
between  mountain  ridges;  that  on  the  left  being  broken,  rocky,  and 
bald,  according  to  the  information  of  Carson  and  Godey,  who  had 
entered  here  in  pursuit  of  the  horses.  The  plain  appeared  covered 
principally  with  the  zygophyllum  Calijornicum  already  mentioned; 
and  the  line  of  our  road  was  marked  by  the  skeletons  of  horses,  which 
were  strewed  to  a  considerable  breadth  over  the  plain.  We  were  after- 
wards always  warned,  on  entering  one  of  these  long  stretches,  by  the 
bones  of  these  animals,  which  had  perished  before  they  could  reach 
the  water.  About  midnight  we  reached  a  considerable  stream  bed, 
now  dry,  the  discharge  of  the  waters  of  this  basin,  (when  it  collected 
any,)  down  which  we  descended  in  a  northwesterly  direction.  The 
creek  bed  was  overgrown  with  shrubbery,  and  several  hours  before 
day  it  brought  us  to  the  entrance  of  a  canon,  where  we  found  water, 
and  encamped.  This  word  canon  is  used  by  the  Spaniards  to  signify 
a  defile  or  gorge  in  a  creek  or  river,  where  high  rocks  press  in  close, 
and  make  a  narrow  way,  usually  difficult,  and  often  impossible  to  be 
passed. 

In  the  morning  we  found  that  we  had  a  very  poor  camping 
ground:  a  swampy,  salty  spot,  with  a  little  long,  unwholesome  grass; 
and  the  water,  which  rose  in  springs,  being  useful  only  to  wet  the 
mouth,  but  entirely  too  salt  to  drink.  All  around  was  sand  and  rocks, 
and  skeletons  of  horses  which  had  not  been  able  to  find  support  for 
their  lives.  As  we  were  about  to  start,  we  found,  at  the  distance  of  a 
few  hundred  yards,  among  the  hills  to  the  southward,  a  spring  of 
tolerably  good  water,  which  was  a  relief  to  ourselves;  but  the  place 
was  too  poor  to  remain  long,  and  therefore  we  continued  on  this 
morning.  On  the  creek  were  thickets  of  spirolobium  odoratum 
(acacia)  in  bloom,  and  very  fragrant. 

Passing  through  the  canon,  we  entered  another  sandy  basin, 
through   which   the  dry   stream   bed   continued   its   northwesterly 

682 


course,  in  which  direction  appeared  a  high  snowy  mountain  [Amar- 
gosa  Range]. 

We  travelled  through  a  barren  district,  where  a  heavy  gale  was 
blowing  about  the  loose  sand,  and,  after  a  ride  of  eight  miles,  reached 
a  large  creek  of  salt  and  bitter  water,  running  in  a  westerly  direction, 
to  receive  the  stream  bed  we  had  left.  It  is  called  by  the  Spaniards 
Amargosa — the  bitter  water  of  the  desert.  Where  we  struck  it,  the 
stream  bends;  and  we  continued  in  a  northerly  course  up  the  ravine 
of  its  valley,  passing  on  the  way  a  fork  from  the  right,  near  which 
occurred  a  bed  of  plants,  consisting  of  a  remarkable  new  genus  of 
crucijerae. 

Gradually  ascending,  the  ravine  opened  into  a  green  valley,  where, 
at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  were  springs  of  excellent  water.  We  en- 
camped among  groves  of  the  new  acacia,  and  there  was  an  abun- 
dance of  good  grass  for  the  animals.^"^ 

This  was  the  best  camping  ground  we  had  seen  since  we  struck 
the  Spanish  trail.  The  day's  journey  was  about  12  miles. 

April  29. — To-day  we  had  to  reach  the  Archilette,  distant  seven 
miles,  where  the  Mexican  party  had  been  attacked;  and,  leaving  our 
encampment  early,  we  traversed  a  part  of  the  desert,  the  most  sterile 
and  repulsive  that  we  had  yet  seen.  Its  prominent  features  were  dark 
sierras,  naked  and  dry;  on  the  plains  a  few  straggling  shrubs — 
among  them,  cactus  of  several  varieties.  Fuentes  pointed  out  one 
called  by  the  Spaniards  bisnada,  which  has  a  juicy  pulp,  slightly  acid, 
and  is  eaten  by  the  traveller  to  allay  thirst.  Our  course  was  generally 
north;  and,  after  crossing  an  intervening  ridge,  we  descended  into  a 
sandy  plain,  or  basin,  in  the  middle  of  which  was  the  grassy  spot, 
with  its  springs  and  willow  bushes,  which  constitutes  a  camping 
place  in  the  desert,  and  is  called  the  Archilette.  The  dead  silence  of 
the  place  was  ominous;  and,  galloping  rapidly  up,  we  found  only  the 
corpses  of  the  two  men :  every  thing  else  was  gone.  They  were  naked, 
mutilated,  and  pierced  with  arrows.  Hernandez  had  evidently  fought, 
and  with  desperation.  He  lay  in  advance  of  the  willow  half-faced 
tent,  which  sheltered  his  family,  as  if  he  had  come  out  to  meet  dan- 


164.  During  26-28  April,  JCF  made  afternoon  and  nighttime  passages  to 
the  east  of  the  Avawatz  Mountains,  then  north  through  a  broad  valley  with 
two  dry  lakes,  then  northwest  to  the  Salt  Creek  Spring  on  the  edge  of  Amar- 
gosa Valley.  His  last  twenty  miles  were  on  the  present  route  of  highway  127, 
proceeding  north  from  Baker  toward  Shoshone  and  Death  Valley  (hafen  & 
HAFEN,  291). 

683 


ger,  and  to  repulse  it,  from  that  asylum.  One  of  his  hands,  and  both 
his  legs,  had  been  cut  off.  Giacome,  who  was  a  large  and  strong- 
looking  man,  was  lying  in  one  of  the  willow  shelters,  pierced  with 
arrows.  Of  the  women  no  trace  could  be  found,  and  it  was  evident 
they  had  been  carried  off  captive.  A  little  lap-dog,  which  had  be- 
longed to  Pablo's  mother,  remained  with  the  dead  bodies,  and  was 
frantic  with  joy  at  seeing  Pablo:  he,  poor  child,  was  frantic  with 
grief;  and  filled  the  air  with  lamentations  for  his  father  and  mother. 
Mi  padre!  Mi  madrel — was  his  incessant  cry.  When  we  beheld  this 
pitiable  sight,  and  pictured  to  ourselves  the  fate  of  the  two  women, 
carried  off  by  savages  so  brutal  and  so  loathsome,  all  compunction  for 
the  scalped-alive  Indian  ceased;  and  we  rejoiced  that  Carson  and 
Godey  had  been  able  to  give  so  useful  a  lesson  to  these  American 
Arabs,  who  lie  in  wait  to  murder  and  plunder  the  innocent  traveller. 

We  were  all  too  much  affected  by  the  sad  feelings  which  the  place 
inspired,  to  remain  an  unnecessary  moment.  The  night  we  were 
obliged  to  pass  there.  Early  in  the  morning  we  left  it,  having  first 
written  a  brief  account  of  what  had  happened,  and  put  it  in  the 
cleft  of  a  pole  planted  at  the  spring,  that  the  approaching  caravan 
might  learn  the  fate  of  their  friends.  In  commemoration  of  the  event, 
we  called  the  place  Agua  de  Hernandez— Hcrnsindez's  spring.^^^  By 
observation,  its  latitude  was  35°  5Y  2\" . 

April  30. — We  continued  our  journey  over  a  district  similar  to  that 
of  the  day  before.  From  the  sandy  basin,  in  which  was  the  spring,  we 
entered  another  basin  of  the  same  character,  surrounded  every  where 
by  mountains.  Before  us  stretched  a  high  range,  rising  still  higher  to 
the  left,  and  terminating  in  a  snowy  mountain. 

After  a  day's  march  of  24  miles,  we  reached  at  evening  the  bed  of 
a  stream  from  which  the  water  had  disappeared;  a  little  only  re- 
mained in  holes,  which  we  increased  by  digging;  and  about  a  mile 
above,  the  stream,  not  yet  entirely  sunk,  was  spread  out  over  the 
sands,  affording  a  little  water  for  the  animals.^*^^  The  stream  came 
out  of  the  mountains  on  the  left,  very  slightly  wooded  with  cotton- 
wood,  willow,  and  acacia,  and  a  few  dwarf  oaks;  and  grass  was 
nearly  as  scarce  as  water.  A  plant  with  showy  yellow  flowers  {Stan- 


165.  The  place  later  came  to  be  called  Resting  Springs. 

166.  Still  on  the  Spanish  Trail,  across  the  Nopah  Range  via  the  steep 
canyon  now  known  as  Emigrant  Pass,  and  moving  across  the  Pahrump  Valley 
to  a  dry  steam  bed.  Camp  was  made  at  Stump  Spring,  with  Charleston  Peak 
dominating  the  northeast  skyline  (hafen  &  hafen,  292). 

684 


leya  integrifolia)  occurred  abundantly  at  intervals  for  the  last  two 
days,  and  eriogonum  inflatum  was  among  the  characteristic  plants. 

May  1. — The  air  is  rough,  and  overcoats  pleasant.  The  sky  is  blue, 
and  the  day  bright.  Our  road  was  over  a  plain,  towards  the  foot  of 
the  mountain;  zygophyllum  Calif ornicum,  now  in  bloom  with  a 
small  yellow  flower,  is  characteristic  of  the  country;  and  cacti  were 
very  abundant,  and  in  rich  fresh  bloom  which  wonderfully  orna- 
ments this  poor  country.  We  encamped  at  a  spring  in  the  pass,  which 
had  been  the  site  of  an  old  village.  Here  we  found  excellent  grass, 
but  very  little  water.  We  dug  out  the  old  spring,  and  watered  some 
of  our  animals.  The  mountain  here  was  wooded  very  slightly  with 
the  nut  pine,  cedars,  and  a  dwarf  species  of  oak;  and  among  the 
shrubs  were  Purshia  tridentata,  artemisia,  and  ephedra  occidentalis. 
The  numerous  shrubs  which  constitute  the  vegetation  of  the  plains 
are  now  in  bloom,  with  flowers  of  white,  yellow,  red,  and  purple. 
The  continual  rocks,  and  want  of  water  and  grass,  begin  to  be  very 
hard  on  our  mules  and  horses;  but  the  principal  loss  is  occasioned  by 
their  crippled  feet,  the  greater  part  of  those  left  being  in  excellent 
order,  and  scarcely  a  day  passes  without  some  loss;  and,  one  by  one, 
Fuentes's  horses  are  constantly  dropping  behind.  Whenever  they 
give  out,  he  dismounts  and  cuts  off  their  tails  and  manes,  to  make 
saddle  girths;  the  last  advantage  one  can  gain  from  them. 

The  next  day,  in  a  short  but  rough  ride  of  12  miles,  we  crossed  the 
mountain;  and,  descending  to  a  small  valley  plain,  encamped  at  the 
foot  of  the  ridge,  on  the  bed  of  a  creek,  where  we  found  good  grass 
in  sufficient  quantity,  and  abundance  of  water  in  holes.  The  ridge  is 
extremely  rugged  and  broken,  presenting  on  this  side  a  continued 
precipice,  and  probably  affords  very  few  passes.  Many  digger  tracks 
are  seen  around  us,  but  no  Indians  were  visible. 

May  3. — After  a  day's  journey  of  18  miles,  in  a  northeasterly  direc- 
tion, we  encamped  in  the  midst  of  another  very  large  basin,  at  a 
camping  ground  called  las  Vegas — a  term  which  the  Spaniards  use 
to  signify  fertile  or  marshy  plains,  in  contradistinction  to  llanos, 
which  they  apply  to  dry  and  sterile  plains.^*'^  Two  narrow  streams  of 


167.  On  1  May,  JCF  crossed  the  eastern  part  of  Pahrump  Valley  and  as- 
cended a  long  slope  to  Mountain  Spring,  near  the  summit  of  the  pass  over 
a  section  of  the  Spring  Mountains.  On  2  May,  he  reached  Cottonwood  Spring 
near  the  present  village  of  Blue  Diamond,  Nev.,  and  on  3  May  arrived  at  Las 
Vegas  (The  Meadows).  Cottonwood  Spring  also  has  been  called  Pearl  Spring 
and  Ojo  de  Cayetana  (hafen  &  hafen,  292-93;  averett,  31).  At  Las  Vegas 

685 


clear  water,  four  or  five  feet  deep,  gush  suddenly,  with  a  quick  cur- 
rent, from  two  singularly  large  springs;  these,  and  other  waters  of 
the  basin,  pass  out  in  a  gap  to  the  eastward.  The  taste  of  the  water  is 
good,  but  rather  too  warm  to  be  agreeable;  the  temperature  being 
71°  in  the  one,  and  73°  in  the  other.  They,  however,  afforded  a  de- 
lightful bathing  place. 

May  4.— We  started  this  morning  earlier  than  usual,  travelling  in 
a  northeasterly  direction  across  the  plain.  The  new  acacia  (spiro- 
lobium  odoratum)  has  now  become  the  characteristic  tree  of  the 
country ;  it  is  in  bloom,  and  its  blossoms  are  very  fragrant.  The  day 
was  still,  and  the  heat,  which  soon  became  very  oppressive,  appeared 
to  bring  out  strongly  the  refreshing  scent  of  the  zygophyllaceous 
shrubs  and  the  sweet  perfume  of  the  acacia.  The  snowy  ridge  we  had 
just  crossed  looked  out  conspicuously  in  the  northwest.  In  about  five 
hours'  ride,  we  crossed  a  gap  in  the  surrounding  ridge,  and  the  ap- 
pearance of  skeletons  of  horses  very  soon  warned  us  that  we  were  en- 
gaged in  another  dry  Jornada,  which  proved  the  longest  we  had 
made  in  all  our  journey— between  fifty  and  sixty  miles  without  a 
drop  of  water. 

Travellers  through  countries  aflfording  water  and  timber  can  have 
no  conception  of  our  intolerable  thirst  while  journeying  over  the  hot 
yellow  sands  of  this  elevated  country,  where  the  heated  air  seems  to 
be  entirely  deprived  of  moisture.  We  ate  occasionally  the  hisnada, 
and  moistened  our  mouths  with  the  acid  of  the  sour  dock,  {rumex 
venosus.)  Hourly  expecting  to  find  water,  we  continued  to  press  on 
until  towards  midnight,  when,  after  a  hard  and  uninterrupted 
march  of  16  hours,  our  wild  mules  began  running  ahead;  and  in  a 
mile  or  two  we  came  to  a  bold  running  stream — so  keen  is  the  sense 
of  that  animal,  in  these  desert  regions,  in  scenting  at  a  distance  this 
necessary  of  life. 

According  to  the  information  we  had  received,  Sevier  river  was  a 
tributary  of  the  Colorado;  and  this,  accordingly,  should  have  been 
one  of  its  affluents.  It  proved  to  be  the  Rio  de  los  Angeles  (river  of 
the  Angels)— a  branch  of  the  Rio  Virgen  (river  of  the  Virgin.)^ 


,168 


he  regained  the  present  U.S.  route  91  and  Interstate  15,  from  which  he  had 
separated  on  25  April. 

168.  After  a  hard  daytime  journey,  the  expedition  reached  what  is  now  the 
Muddy  River.  The  route  from  Las  Vegas  was  essentially  that  now  followed  by 
U.S.  91  and  Interstate  15,  except  for  the  last  few  miles  when  the  party  de- 
scended California  Wash,  striking  the  river  about  midway  between  present 

686 


May  5. — On  account  of  our  animals,  it  was  necessary  to  remain  to- 
day at  this  place.  Indians  crowded  numerously  around  us  in  the 
morning;  and  we  were  obliged  to  keep  arms  in  hand  all  day,  to  keep 
them  out  of  the  camp.  They  began  to  surround  the  horses,  which, 
for  the  convenience  of  grass,  we  were  guarding  a  little  above,  on  the 
river..  These  were  immediately  driven  in,  and  kept  close  to  the  camp. 

In  the  darkness  of  the  night  we  had  made  a  very  bad  encampment, 
our  fires  being  commanded  by  a  rocky  bluff  within  50  yards;  but, 
notwithstanding,  we  had  the  river  and  small  thickets  of  willows  on 
the  other  side.  Several  times  during  the  day  the  camp  was  insulted 
by  the  Indians;  but,  peace  being  our  object,  I  kept  simply  on  the  de- 
fensive. Some  of  the  Indians  were  on  the  bottoms,  and  others  ha- 
ranguing us  from  the  bluffs;  and  they  were  scattered  in  every  direc- 
tion over  the  hills,  Their  language  being  probably  a  dialect  of  the 
Utah,  with  the  aid  of  signs  some  of  our  people  could  comprehend 
them  very  well.  They  were  the  same  people  who  had  murdered  the 
Mexicans;  and  towards  us  their  disposition  was  evidently  hostile,  nor 
were  we  well  disposed  towards  them.  They  were  barefooted,  and 
nearly  naked;  their  hair  gathered  up  into  a  knot  behind;  and  with 
his  bow,  each  man  carried  a  quiver  with  thirty  or  forty  arrows  par- 
tially drawn  out.  Besides  these,  each  held  in  his  hand  two  or  three  ar- 
rows for  instant  service.  Their  arrows  are  barbed  with  a  very  clear 
translucent  stone,  a  species  of  opal,  nearly  as  hard  as  the  diamond; 
and,  shot  from  their  long  bow,  are  almost  as  effective  as  a  gunshot. 
In  these  Indians,  I  was  forcibly  struck  by  an  expression  of  counte- 
nance resembling  that  in  a  beast  of  prey;  and  all  their  actions  are  those 
of  wild  animals.  Joined  to  the  restless  motion  of  the  eye,  there  is  a 
want  of  mind — an  absence  of  thought — and  an  action  wholly  by 
impulse,  strongly  expressed,  and  which  constantly  recalls  the  simi- 
larity. 

A  man  who  appeared  to  be  a  chief,  with  two  or  three  others, 
forced  himself  into  camp,  bringing  with  him  his  arms,  in  spite  of 


Moapa  and  Glendale,  Nev.  The  Indians  encountered  were  the  Southern 
Paiutes.  The  next  dry  drive  of  6  May,  Dale  L.  Morgan  believes,  was  along  a 
route  across  Mormon  Mesa,  heading  all  the  branches  of  Halfway  Wash,  and 
still  following  approximately  the  present  federal  highway  to  a  point  on  the 
Virgin  a  few  miles  below  present  Riverside,  Nev.  Corroboration  comes  from 
JCF  himself,  who  states  that  after  reaching  the  Virgin  he  ascended  it  twenty- 
eight  miles.  This  would  have  put  him  in  the  vicinity  of  Littlefield,  Ariz., 
where  he  left  the  river. 


687 


my  orders  to  the  contrary.  When  shown  our  weapons,  he  bored  his 
ear  with  his  fingers,  and  said  he  could  not  hear,  "Why,"  said  he, 
"there  are  none  of  you."  Counting  the  people  around  the  camp,  and 
including  in  the  number  a  mule  which  was  being  shod,  he  made  out 
22.  "So  many,"  said  he,  showing  the  number  "and  we — we  are  a 
great  many ;"  and  he  pointed  to  the  hills  and  mountains  round  about. 
"If  you  have  your  arms,"  said  he,  twanging  his  bow,  "we  have  these." 
I  had  some  difficulty  in  restraining  the  people,  particularly  Carson, 
who  felt  an  insult  of  this  kind  as  much  as  if  it  had  been  given  by  a 
more  responsible  being.  "Don't  say  that,  old  man,"  said  he;  "don't 
you  say  that — your  life's  in  danger" — speaking  in  good  English;  and 
probably  the  old  man  was  nearer  to  his  end  than  he  will  be  before 
he  meets  it. 

Several  animals  had  been  necessarily  left  behind  near  the  camp  last 
night;  and  early  in  the  morning,  before  the  Indians  made  their  ap- 
pearance, several  men  were  sent  to  bring  them  in.  When  I  was  be- 
ginning to  be  uneasy  at  their  absence,  they  returned  with  informa- 
tion that  they  had  been  driven  ofl  from  the  trail  by  Indians;  and, 
having  followed  the  tracks  in  a  short  distance,  they  found  the  ani- 
mals cut  up  and  spread  out  upon  bushes.  In  the  evening  I  gave  a 
fatigued  horse  to  some  of  the  Indians  for  a  feast;  and  the  village 
which  carried  him  off  refused  to  share  with  the  others,  who  made 
loud  complaints  from  the  rocks  of  the  partial  distribution.  Many  of 
these  Indians  had  long  sticks,  hooked  at  the  end,  which  they  used  in 
hauling  out  lizards,  and  other  small  animals,  from  their  holes.  Dur- 
ing the  day  they  occasionally  roasted  and  ate  lizards  at  our  fires. 
These  belong  to  the  people  who  are  generally  known  under  the 
name  of  Diggers;  and  to  these  I  have  more  particularly  had  reference 
when  occasionally  speaking  of  a  people  whose  sole  occupation  is  to 
procure  food  sufficient  to  support  existence.  The  formation  here  con- 
sists of  fine  yellow  sandstone,  alternating  with  a  coarse  conglomerate, 
in  which  the  stones  are  from  the  size  of  ordinary  gravel  to  six  or 
eight  inches  in  diameter.  This  is  the  formation  which  renders  the 
surface  of  the  country  so  rocky,  and  gives  us  now  a  road  alternately 
of  loose  heavy  sands  and  rolled  stones,  which  cripple  the  animals  in 
a  most  extraordinary  manner. 

On  the  following  morning  we  left  the  Rio  de  los  Angeles,  and 
continued  our  way  through  the  same  desolate  and  revolting  country, 
where  lizards  were  the  only  animal,  and  the  tracks  of  the  lizard 
eaters  the  principal  sign  of  human  beings.  After  twenty  miles'  march 

688 


through  a  road  of  hills  and  heavy  sands,  we  reached  the  most  dreary 
river  I  have  ever  seen — a  deep  rapid  stream,  almost  a  torrent,  passing 
swiftly  by,  and  roaring  against  obstructions.  The  banks  were  wooded 
with  willow,  acacia,  and  a  frequent  plant  of  the  country  already 
mentioned,  (Garry a  elliptica,)  growing  in  thickets,  resembling  wil- 
low, and  bearing  a  small  pink  flower.  Crossing  it,  we  encamped  on 
the  left  bank,  where  we  found  a  very  little  grass.  Our  three  remain- 
ing steers,  being  entirely  given  out,  were  killed  here.  By  the  boiling 
point,  the  elevation  of  the  river  here  is  4,060  feet ;  and  latitude  by  ob- 
servation, 36°  4r  33".  The  stream  was  running  towards  the  south- 
west, and  appeared  to  come  from  a  snowy  mountain  in  the  north. 
It  proved  to  be  the  Rio  Virgen — a  tributary  to  the  Colorado.  In- 
dians appeared  in  bands  on  the  hills,  but  did  not  come  into  camp. 
For  several  days  we  continued  our  journey  up  the  river,  the  bot- 
toms of  which  were  thickly  overgrown  with  various  kinds  of  brush; 
and  the  sandy  soil  was  absolutely  covered  with  the  tracks  of  Diggers, 
who  followed  us  stealthily,  like  a  band  of  wolves;  and  we  had  no 
opportunity  to  leave  behind,  even  for  a  few  hours,  the  tired  animals, 
in  order  that  they  be  brought  into  camp  after  a  little  repose.  A  horse 
or  mule,  left  behind,  was  taken  off  in  a  moment.  On  the  evening  of 
the  8th,  having  travelled  28  miles  up  the  river  from  our  first  en- 
campment on  it,  we  encamped  at  a  little  grass  plat,  where  a  spring 
of  cool  water  issued  from  the  bluff.  On  the  opposite  side  was  a  grove 
of  cottonwoods  at  the  mouth  of  a  fork,  which  here  enters  the  river. 
On  either  side  the  valley  is  bounded  by  ranges  of  mountains,  every 
where  high,  rocky,  and  broken.  The  caravan  road  was  lost  and 
scattered  in  the  sandy  country,  and  we  had  been  following  an  Indian 
trail  up  the  river.  The  hunters  the  next  day  were  sent  out  to  recon- 
noitre, and  in  the  mean  time  we  moved  about  a  mile  farther  up, 
where  we  found  a  good  little  patch  of  grass.  There  being  only  suf- 
ficient grass  for  the  night,  the  horses  were  sent  with  a  strong  guard 
in  charge  of  Tabeau  to  a  neighboring  hollow,  where  they  might 
pasture  during  the  day;  and,  to  be  ready  in  case  the  Indians  should 
make  any  attempt  on  the  animals,  several  of  the  best  horses  were 
picketed  at  the  camp.  In  a  few  hours  the  hunters  returned,  having 
found  a  convenient  ford  in  the  river,  and  discovered  the  Spanish  trail 
on  the  other  side. 

I  had  been  engaged  in  arranging  plants;  and,  fatigued  with  the 
heat  of  the  day,  I  fell  asleep  in  the  afternoon,  and  did  not  awake 
until  sundown.  Presently  Carson  came  to  me,  and  reported  that 

689 


Tabeau,  who  early  in  the  day  had  left  his  post,  and,  without  my 
knowledge,  rode  back  to  the  camp  we  had  left,  in  search  of  a  lame 
mule,  had  not  returned.  While  we  were  speaking,  a  smoke  rose  sud- 
denly from  the  cottonwood  grove  below,  which  plainly  told  us  what 
had  befallen  him;  it  was  raised  to  inform  the  surrounding  Indians 
that  a  blow  had  been  struck,  and  to  tell  them  to  be  on  their  guard. 
Carson,  with  several  men  well  mounted,  was  instantly  sent  down  the 
river,  but  returned  in  the  night  without  tidings  of  the  missing  man. 
They  went  to  the  camp  we  had  left,  but  neither  he  nor  the  mule  was 
there.  Searching  down  the  river,  they  found  the  tracks  of  the  mule, 
evidently  driven  along  by  Indians,  whose  tracks  were  on  each  side 
of  those  made  by  the  animal.  After  going  several  miles,  they  came 
to  the  mule  itself,  standing  in  some  bushes,  mortally  wounded  in  the 
side  by  an  arrow,  and  left  to  die,  that  it  might  be  afterwards 
butchered  for  food.  They  also  found,  in  another  place,  as  they  were 
hunting  about  the  ground  for  Tabeau's  tracks,  something  that 
looked  like  a  puddle  of  blood,  but  which  the  darkness  prevented 
them  from  verifying.  With  these  details  they  returned  to  our  camp, 
and  their  report  saddened  all  our  hearts. 

May  10.— This  morning,  as  soon  as  there  was  light  enough  to  fol- 
low tracks,  I  set  out  myself,  with  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  and  several  men, 
in  search  of  Tabeau.  We  went  to  the  spot  where  the  appearance  of 
puddled  blood  had  been  seen;  and  this,  we  saw  at  once,  had  been 
the  place  where  he  fell  and  died.^^^  Blood  upon  the  leaves,  and 
beaten  down  bushes,  showed  that  he  had  got  his  wound  about  twenty 
paces  from  where  he  fell,  and  that  he  had  struggled  for  his  life.  He 
had  probably  been  shot  through  the  lungs  with  an  arrow.  From  the 
place  where  he  lay  and  bled,  it  could  be  seen  that  he  had  been 
dragged  to  the  river  bank,  and  thrown  into  it.  No  vestige  of  what 
had  belonged  to  him  could  be  found,  except  a  fragment  of  his  horse 
equipment.  Horse,  gun,  clothes— all  became  the  prey  of  these  Arabs 
of  the  New  World. 

Tabeau  had  been  one  of  our  best  men,  and  his  unhappy  death 
spread  a  gloom  over  our  party.  Men,  who  have  gone  through  such 


169.  Tabeau  was  killed  in  the  vicinity  of  Littlefield,  Ariz.  The  Spanish 
Trail  crossed  and  recrossed  the  Virgin  in  this  reach  of  the  river,  but  JCF's 
map  shows  that  he  kept  to  the  south  bank  all  the  way  (and  thus  lost  the 
trail).  It  appears  that  Tabeau  was  killed  before  the  party  crossed  to  the  north 
bank  and  to  the  site  of  Littlefield. 


690 


dangers  and  sufferings  as  we  had  seen,  become  like  brothers,  and  feel 
each  other's  loss.  To  defend  and  avenge  each  other,  is  the  deep  feel- 
ing of  all.  We  wished  to  avenge  his  death ;  but  the  condition  of  our 
horses,  languishing  for  grass  and  repose,  forbade  an  expedition  into 
unknown  mountains.  We  knew  the  tribe  who  had  done  the  mis- 
chief— the  same  which  had  been  insulting  our  camp.  They  knew 
what  they  deserved,  and  had  the  discretion  to  show  themselves  to  us  no 
more.  The  day  before,  they  infested  our  camp;  now,  not  one  ap- 
peared; nor  did  we  ever  afterwards  see  but  one  who  even  belonged 
to  the  same  tribe,  and  he  at  a  distance. 

Our  camp  was  in  a  basin  below  a  deep  caiion — a  gap  of  two  thou- 
sand feet  deep  in  the  mountain — through  which  the  Rio  Virgen 
passes,  and  where  no  man  or  beast  could  follow  it.  The  Spanish  trail, 
which  we  had  lost  in  the  sands  of  the  basin,  was  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river.  We  crossed  over  to  it,  and  followed  it  northwardly 
towards  a  gap  which  was  visible  in  the  mountain.  We  approached 
it  by  a  defile,  rendered  difficult  for  our  barefooted  animals  by  the 
rocks  strewed  along  it;  and  here  the  country  changed  its  character. 
From  the  time  we  entered  the  desert,  the  mountains  had  been  bald 
and  rocky;  here  they  began  to  be  wooded  with  cedar  and  pine,  and 
clusters  of  trees  gave  shelter  to  birds — a  new  and  welcome  sight — 
which  could  not  have  lived  in  the  desert  we  had  passed. 

Descending  a  long  hollow,  towards  the  narrow  valley  of  a  stream, 
we  saw  before  us  a  snowy  mountain,  far  beyond  which  appeared 
another  more  lofty  still.  Good  bunch  grass  began  to  appear  on  the 
hill  sides,  and  here  we  found  a  singular  variety  of  interesting  shrubs. 
The  changed  appearance  of  the  country  infused  among  our  people 
a  more  lively  spirit,  which  was  heightened  by  finding  at  evening  a 
halting  place  of  very  good  grass  on  the  clear  waters  of  the  Santa 
Clara  fork  of  the  Rio  Virgen. 

May  11. — The  morning  was  cloudy  and  quite  cool,  with  a  shower 
of  rain — the  first  we  have  had  since  entering  the  desert,  a  period  of 
twenty-seven  days;  and  we  seem  to  have  entered  a  different  climate, 
with  the  usual  weather  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  Our  march  to-day 
was  very  laborious,  over  very  broken  ground,  along  the  Santa  Clara 
river;  but  then  the  country  is  no  longer  so  distressingly  desolate.  The 
stream  is  prettily  wooded  with  sweet  cottonwood  trees — some  of 
them  of  large  size;  and  on  the  hills,  where  the  nut  pine  is  often  seen, 
a  good  and  wholesome  grass  occurs  frequently.  This  cottonwood. 


691 


which  is  now  in  fruit,  is  of  a  different  species  from  any  in  Michaux's 
Sylva,  Heavy  dark  clouds  covered  the  sky  in  the  evening,  and  a  cold 
wind  sprang  up,  making  fires  and  overcoats  comfortable. 

May  12. — A  little  above  our  encampment,  the  river  forked;  and 
we    continued    up    the    right-hand    branch,    gradually    ascending 
towards  the  summit  of  the  mountain.  As  we  rose  towards  the  head 
of  the  creek,  the  snowy  mountain  on  our  right  showed  out  hand- 
somely— high  and  rugged  with  precipices,  and  covered  with  snow 
for  about  two  thousand  feet  from  their  summits  down.  Our  animals 
were  somewhat  repaid  for  their  hard  marches  by  an  excellent  camp- 
ing ground  on  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  which  forms  here  the  divid- 
ing chain  between  the  waters  of  the  Rio  Virgen,  which  goes  south 
to  the  Colorado,  and  those  of  Sevier  river,  flowing  northwardly,  and 
belonging  to  the  Great  Basin.  We  considered  ourselves  as  crossing 
the  rim  of  the  basin;  and,  entering  it  at  this  point,  we  found  here 
an  extensive  mountain  meadow,  rich  in  bunch  grass,  and  fresh  with 
numerous  springs  of  clear  water,  all  refreshing  and  delightful  to 
look  upon.  It  was,  in  fact,  that  las  Vegas  de  Santa  Clarar^  which 
had  been  so  long  presented  to  us  as  the  terminating  point  of  the  des- 
ert, and  where  the  annual  caravan  from  California  to  New  Mexico 
halted  and  recruited  for  some  weeks.  It  was  a  very  suitable  place 
to  recover  from  the  fatigue  and  exhaustion  of  a  month's  suffering 
in  the  hot  and  sterile  desert.  The  meadow  was  about  a  mile  wide, 
and  some  ten  miles  long,  bordered  by  grassy  hills  and  mountains- 
some  of  the  latter  rising  two  thousand  feet,  and  white  with  snow 
down  to  the  level  of  the  vegas.  Its  elevation  above  the  sea  was  5,280 
feet;  latitude,  by  observation,  37°  28'  28";  and  its  distance  from  where 
we  first  struck  the  Spanish  trail  about  four  hundred  miles.  Counting 
from  the  time  we  reached  the  desert,  and  began  to  skirt,  at  our 
descent  from  Walker's  [Oak  Creek]  Pass  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  we 
had  travelled  550  miles,  occupying  twenty-seven  days,  in  that  inhos- 
pitable region.  In  passing  before  the  great  caravan,  we  had  the  ad- 


170.  The  march  of  10  and  11  May  has  taken  the  party  away  from  the  Vir- 
gin at  the  mouth  of  Beaver  Dam  Wash,  back  onto  the  Spanish  Trail,  which 
they  had  lost  in  the  sand,  and  along  the  route  of  U.S.  highway  91,  to  pass 
over  the  Beaver  Dam  Mountains  down  to  Santa  Clara  River  (hafen  &  hafen, 
297). 

171.  Up  the  Santa  Clara  River  and  its  northern  fork,  Magotsu  Creek,  to  the 
place  now  called  Mountain  Meadows  in  southwestern  Utah.  In  1857,  this  spot 
would  be  the  site  of  the  massacre  by  fanatic  Mormons  of  a  train  of  emigrants 
from  Missouri  and  Arkansas  (j.  brooks). 

692 


vantage  of  finding  more  grass,  but  the  disadvantage  of  finding  also 
the  marauding  savages,  v^^ho  had  gathered  down  upon  the  trail, 
waiting  the  approach  of  that  prey.  This  greatly  increased  our  labors, 
besides  costing  us  the  life  of  an  excellent  man.  We  had  to  move  all 
day  in  a  state  of  watch,  and  prepared  for  combat — scouts  and  flank- 
ers out,  a  front  and  rear  division  of  our  men,  and  baggage  animals 
in  the  centre.  At  night,  camp  duty  was  severe.  Those  who  had  toiled 
all  day,  had  to  guard,  by  turns,  the  camp  and  the  horses  all  night. 
Frequently  one-third  of  the  whole  party  were  on  guard  at  once; 
and  nothing  but  this  vigilance  saved  us  from  attack.  We  were  con- 
stantly dogged  by  bands,  and  even  whole  tribes  of  the  marauders;  and 
although  Tabeau  was  killed,  and  our  camp  infested  and  insulted 
by  some,  while  swarms  of  them  remained  on  the  hills  and  mountain 
sides,  there  was  manifestly  a  consultation  and  calculation  going  on, 
to  decide  the  question  of  attacking  us.  Having  reached  the  resting 
place  of  the  Vegas  de  Santa  Clara,  we  had  complete  relief  from  the 
heat  and  privations  of  the  desert,  and  some  relaxation  from  the 
severity  of  camp  duty.  Some  relaxation,  and  relaxation  only — for 
camp  guards,  horse  guards,  and  scouts,  are  indispensable  from  the 
time  of  leaving  the  frontiers  of  Missouri  until  we  return  to  them. 
After  we  left  the  Vegas,  we  had  the  gratification  to  be  joined  by 
the  famous  hunter  and  trapper,  Mr.  Joseph  Walker,^^^  whom  I  have 
before  mentioned,  and  who  now  became  our  guide.  He  had  left 
California  with  the  great  caravan,  and  perceiving,  from  the  signs 
along  the  trail,  that  there  was  a  party  of  whites  ahead,  which  he 
judged  to  be  mine,  he  detached  himself  from  the  caravan,  with  eight 
men,  (Americans,)  and  ran  the  gauntlet  of  the  desert  robbers,  killing 
two,  and  getting  some  of  the  horses  wounded,  and  succeeded  in  over- 
taking us.  Nothing  but  his  great  knowledge  of  the  country,  great 
courage  and  presence  of  mind,  and  good  rifles,  could  have  brought 
him  safe  from  such  a  perilous  enterprise. 


172.  Mountaineer  Joseph  Reddeford  Walker  (1798-1876)  had  been  reared 
in  Roane  County,  Tenn.  In  1819,  he  moved  to  Missouri,  and  after  trading 
and  trapping  out  of  Independence,  he  joined  Captain  Bonneville's  company 
which  left  for  the  mountains  in  1832.  From  the  Green  River  rendezvous  in 
1833  he  set  out  westward,  first  to  Great  Salt  Lake,  then  to  the  Humboldt 
River,  and  on  to  what  is  known  as  Walker  Lake.  His  group  crossed  the  Sierra 
and  reached  Monterey,  Calif.  On  his  return  east  in  1834  he  recrossed  the 
mountains  by  what  is  now  Walker  Pass,  and  rejoined  Bonneville  in  Idaho.  As 
noted  earlier,  he  joined  Chiles'  emigrant  company  at  Fort  Bridger  in  Aug. 
1843  and  led  a  part  of  it  into  California. 

693 


May  13. — ^We  remained  one  day  at  this  noted  place  of  rest  and 
refreshment;  and,  resuming  our  progress  in  a  northeastwardly  direc- 
tion, we  descended  into  a  broad  valley,  the  water  of  which  is  tribu- 
tary to  Sevier  lake.  The  next  day  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Wah-satch 
range  of  mountains  on  the  right,  white  with  snow,  and  here  forming 
the  southeast  part  of  the  Great  Basin.  Sevier  lake,  upon  the  waters  of 
which  we  now  were,  belonged  to  the  system  of  lakes  in  the  eastern 
part  of  the  Basin — of  which,  the  Great  Salt  lake,  and  its  southern 
limb,  the  Utah  lake,^^^  were  the  principal — towards  the  region  of 
which  we  were  now  approaching.  We  travelled  for  several  days  in 
this  direction,  within  the  rim  of  the  Great  Basin,  crossing  little 
streams  which  bore  to  the  left  for  Sevier  lake;  and  plainly  seeing, 
by  the  changed  aspect  of  the  country,  that  we  were  entirely  clear  of 
the  desert,  and  approaching  the  regions  which  appertained  to  the 
system  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  We  met,  in  this  traverse,  a  few 
mounted  Utah  Indians,  in  advance  of  their  main  body,  watching  the 
approach  of  the  great  caravan. 

May  16. — We  reached  a  small  salt  lake,  about  seven  miles  long 
and  one  broad,  at  the  northern  extremity  of  which  we  encamped  for 
the  night.^^^  This  little  lake,  which  well  merits  its  characteristic 


173.  Utah  Lake  is  not  the  southern  limb  of  Great  Salt  Lake,  but  a  separate 
body  of  water,  connected  to  Great  Salt  Lake  by  the  Jordan  River.  Although 
JCF  does  express  some  puzzlement  over  the  fact  that  it  is  not  salt  water  (p. 
698),  he  leaves  little  doubt — on  his  map  as  well  as  in  his  narrative — that  he 
considers  Utah  Lake  a  part  of  the  larger  one  to  the  north. 

174.  As  Dale  L.  Morgan  has  pointed  out  during  his  patient  and  much- 
appreciated  consultations  with  us,  JCF  was  careless  with  his  narrative  after 
leaving  Mountain  Meadows.  His  narrative  says  he  lay  over  one  day  to  rest; 
his  table  of  distances  says  that  he  went  on  to  Pinto  Creek  at  present  Newcastle 
on  the  13th  and  rested  there  on  the  14th.  Pinto  Creek  is  almost  certainly 
where  he  met  Walker. 

From  Pinto  Creek  he  passed  north  of  the  Antelope  Range  and  east  to  Iron 
Springs,  and  his  map  shows  but  does  not  name  either  stream — both  of  which 
soon  fade  into  the  sands.  On  the  16th,  he  reached  Ojo  de  San  Jose  at  present 
Enoch,  Utah,  near  the  divide  between  Cedar  and  Parowan  (Little  Salt  Lake) 
valleys  near  the  southern  end  of  Little  Salt  Lake — not  the  northern  end  as  his 
narrative  states. 

If  the  route  on  the  map  is  to  be  accepted,  we  must  believe  that  he  traveled 
north  from  Ojo  de  San  Jose  and  passed  west  of  Little  Salt  Lake,  missing  a 
chance  to  strike  several  creeks  if  he  had  passed  east  of  the  lake.  He  then 
continued  on  from  Enoch,  west  of  the  hills  which  run  north-northeast  from 
there,  to  a  point  west  of  the  southwestern  end  of  Little  Salt  Lake,  and  then 
on  to  a  night  camp  at  Buckhorn  Springs,  the  only  tolerable  watering  place 
before  Beaver  Valley. 

694 


name,  lies  immediately  at  the  base  of  the  Wah-satch  range,  and 
nearly  opposite  a  gap  in  that  chain  of  mountains  through  which  the 
Spanish  trail  passes;  and  which,  again  falling  upon  the  waters  of 
the  Colorado,  and  crossing  that  river,  proceeds  over  a  mountainous 
country  to  Santa  Fe. 

May  17. — After  440  miles  of  travelling  on  a  trail,  which  served  for 
a  road,  we  again  found  ourselves  under  the  necessity  of  exploring  a 
track  through  the  wilderness.  The  Spanish  trail  had  borne  off  to  the 
southeast,  crossing  the  Wah-satch  range.  Our  course  led  to  the  north- 
east, along  the  foot  of  that  range,  and  leaving  it  on  the  right.  The 
mountain  presented  itself  to  us  under  the  form  of  several  ridges, 
rising  one  above  the  other,  rocky,  and  wooded  with  pine  and  cedar; 
the  last  ridge  covered  with  snow.  Sevier  river,  flowing  northwardly 
to  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  collects  its  principal  waters  from  this 
section  of  the  Wah-satch  chain.  We  had  now  entered  a  region  of 
great  pastoral  promise,  abounding  with  fine  streams,  the  rich  bunch 
grass,  soil  that  would  produce  wheat,  and  indigenous  flax  growing 
as  if  it  had  been  sown.  Consistent  with  the  general  character  of  its 
bordering  mountains,  this  fertility  of  soil  and  vegetation  does  not 
extend  far  into  the  Great  Basin.  Mr.  Joseph  Walker,  our  guide,  and 
who  has  more  knowledge  of  these  parts  than  any  man  I  know,  in- 
formed me  that  all  the  country  to  the  left  was  unknown  to  him,  and 
that  even  the  Digger  tribes,  which  frequented  Lake  Sevier,  could 
tell  him  nothing  about  it. 

May  20. — We  met  a  band  of  Utah  Indians,  headed  by  a  well- 
known  chief,  who  had  obtained  the  American  or  English  name  of 
Walker,  by  which  he  is  quoted  and  well  known.  They  were  all 
mounted,  armed  with  rifles,  and  use  their  rifles  well.  The  chief  had 
a  fusee,  which  he  had  carried  slung,  in  addition  to  his  rifle.  They 
were  journeying  slowly  towards  the  Spanish  trail,  to  levy  their  usual 
tribute  upon  the  great  Californian  caravan.  They  were  robbers  of  a 
higher  order  than  those  of  the  desert.  They  conducted  their  depreda- 
tions with  form,  and  under  the  color  of  trade  and  toll  for  passing 
through  their  country.  Instead  of  attacking  and  killing,  they  affect 


On  19  May,  he  camped  north  of  the  Beaver  River.  From  there  he  traveled 
north  into  Wildcat  Canyon  and  across  a  divide  to  Pine  Creek,  perhaps  to 
camp  there  or  at  Cove  Fort  farther  north  on  the  20th,  and  on  Chalk  Creek  at 
present  Fillmore  on  the  21st.  He  was  in  Round  or  Scipio  Valley  on  the  night 
of  22  May;  on  the  23rd  at  the  site  of  Yuba  Dam  on  the  Sevier  River;  on  the 
24th,  Salt  Creek  at  Nephi;  and  then  on  to  the  Spanish  Fork  River  on  25  May. 


695 


to  purchase — taking  the  horses  they  Hke,  and  giving  something  nom- 
inal in  return.  The  chief  was  quite  civil  to  me.  He  was  personally 
acquainted  with  his  namesake,  our  guide,  who  made  my  name 
known  to  him.  He  knew  of  my  expedition  of  1842;  and,  as  tokens 
of  friendship,  and  proof  that  we  had  met,  proposed  an  interchange 
of  presents.  We  had  no  great  store  to  choose  out  of;  so  he  gave  me 
a  Mexican  blanket,  and  I  gave  him  a  very  fine  one  which  I  had  ob- 
tained at  Vancouver. 

May  23. — We  reached  Sevier  river — the  main  tributary  of  the  lake 
of  the  same  name — which,  deflecting  from  its  northern  course,  here 
breaks  from  the  mountains  to  enter  the  lake.  It  was  really  a  fine 
river,  from  eight  to  twelve  feet  deep ;  and,  after  searching  in  vain  for 
a  fordable  place,  we  made  little  boats  (or,  rather,  rafts)  out  of  bul- 
rushes, and  ferried  across.  These  rafts  are  readily  made,  and  give  a 
good  conveyance  across  a  river.  The  rushes  are  bound  in  bundles, 
and  tied  hard;  the  bundles  are  tied  down  upon  poles,  as  close  as 
they  can  be  pressed,  and  fashioned  like  a  boat,  in  being  broader  in 
the  middle  and  pointed  at  the  ends.  The  rushes,  being  tubular  and 
jointed,  are  light  and  strong.  The  raft  swims  well,  and  is  shoved 
along  by  poles,  or  paddled,  or  pushed  and  pulled  by  swimmers,  or 
drawn  by  ropes.  On  this  occasion,  we  used  ropes — one  at  each  end — 
and  rapidly  drew  our  little  float  backwards  and  forwards,  from  shore 
to  shore.  The  horses  swam.  At  our  place  of  crossing,  which  was  the 
most  northern  point  of  its  bend,  the  latitude  was  39°  22'  19"'.  The 
banks  sustained  the  character  for  fertility  and  vegetation  which  we 
had  seen  for  some  days.  The  name  of  this  river  and  lake  was  an  in- 
dication of  our  approach  to  regions  of  which  our  people  had  been 
the  explorers.  It  was  probably  named  after  some  American  trapper 
or  hunter,  and  was  the  first  American  name  we  had  met  with  since 
leaving  the  Columbia  river."^  From  the  Dalles  to  the  point  where 
we  turned  across  the  Sierra  Nevada,  near  1,000  miles,  we  heard  In- 


175.  Not  true,  as  JCF  will  acknowledge  in  his  Geographical  Memoir  of 
1848.  The  name  is  a  corruption  of  the  Spanish  version,  Rio  Severo.  Reaching 
the  Sevier  and  crossing  it  near  the  present  Yuba  Dam,  the  expedition  here 
loses  Frangois  Badeau  in  the  accident  which  JCF  next  describes.  When  Arthur 
Shearer,  with  one  of  the  first  wagon  companies  to  travel  the  Salt  Lake-to- 
Los  Angeles  road,  was  at  the  site  on  6  Oct.  1849,  he  wrote:  "We  are  en- 
camped on  the  same  ground  that  Fremont  occupied  when  here  and  found  and 
burned  some  wood  cut  &  left  by  him.  Saw  grave  of  Bourdouxe  who  was  acci- 
dentally shot  at  this  place"  (CU-B).  There  seem  to  have  been  no  subsequent 
references  to  Badeau's  gravesite. 

696 


dian  names,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  distance  none;  from  Nueva 
Helvetia  (Sacramento)  to  las  Vegas  de  Santa  Clara,  about  1,000 
more,  all  were  Spanish;  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific,  French 
and  American  or  English  were  intermixed;  and  this  prevalence  of 
names  indicates  the  national  character  of  the  first  explorers. 

We  had  here  the  misfortune  to  lose  one  of  our  people,  Francois 
Badeau,  who  had  been  with  me  in  both  expeditions;  during  which 
he  had  always  been  one  of  my  most  faithful  and  efficient  men.  He 
was  killed  in  drawing  towards  him  a  gun  by  the  muzzle;  the  ham- 
mer being  caught,  discharged  the  gun,  driving  the  ball  through  his 
head.  We  buried  him  on  the  banks  of  the  river. 

Crossing  the  next  day  a  slight  ridge  along  the  river,  we  entered  a 
handsome  mountain  valley  [Tintic  Valley]  covered  with  fine  grass, 
and  directed  our  course  towards  a  high  snowy  peak,  at  the  foot  of 
which  lay  the  Utah  lake.  On  our  right  was  a  bed  of  high  mountains, 
their  summits  covered  with  snow,  constituting  the  dividing  ridge  be- 
tween the  Basin  waters  and  those  of  the  Colorado.  At  noon  we  fell  in 
with  a  party  of  Utah  Indians  coming  out  of  the  mountain,  and  in  the 
afternoon  encamped  on  a  tributary  to  the  lake,  which  is  separated 
from  the  waters  of  the  Sevier  by  very  slight  dividing  grounds. 

Early  the  next  day  we  came  in  sight  of  the  lake;  and,  as  we  de- 
scended to  the  broad  bottoms  of  the  Spanish  fork,  three  horsemen 
were  seen  galloping  towards  us,  who  proved  to  be  Utah  Indians — 
scouts  from  a  village,  which  was  encamped  near  the  mouth  of  the 
river.  They  were  armed  with  rifles,  and  their  horses  were  in  good 
condition.  We  encamped  near  them,  on  the  Spanish  fork,  which  is 
one  of  the  principal  tributaries  to  the  lake.  Finding  the  Indians 
troublesome,  and  desirous  to  remain  here  a  day,  we  removed  the 
next  morning  farther  down  the  lake,  and  encamped  on  a  fertile  bot- 
tom near  the  foot  of  the  same  mountainous  ridge  which  borders  the 
Great  Salt  lake,  and  along  which  we  had  journeyed  the  previous 
September.  Here  the  principal  plants  in  bloom  were  two,  which 
were  remarkable  as  affording  to  the  Snake  Indians — the  one  an 
abundant  supply  of  food,  and  the  other  the  most  useful  among  the 
applications  which  they  use  for  wounds.  These  were  the  kooyah 
plant,  growing  in  fields  of  extraordinary  luxuriance,  and  convollaria 
stellata,  which,  from  the  experience  of  Mr.  Walker,  is  the  best  reme- 
dial plant  known  among  those  Indians.  A  few  miles  below  us  was 
another  village  of  Indians,  from  which  we  obtained  some  fish — 
among  them  a  few  salmon  trout,  which  were  very  much  inferior  in 

697 


size  to  those  along  the  CaUfornian  mountains.  The  season  for  taking 
them  had  not  yet  arrived;  but  the  Indians  were  daily  expecting  them 
to  come  up  out  of  the  lake  [to  spawn]. 

We  had  now  accomplished  an  object  we  had  in  view  when  leaving 
the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia  in  November  last;  we  had  reached  the 
Utah  lake;  but  by  a  route  very  different  from  what  we  had  intended, 
and  without  sufficient  time  remaining  to  make  the  examinations 
which  were  desired.  It  is  a  lake  of  note  in  this  country,  under  the 
dominion  of  the  Utahs,  who  resort  to  it  for  fish.  Its  greatest  breadth 
is  about  15  miles,  stretching  far  to  the  north,  narrowing  as  it  goes, 
and  connecting  with  the  Great  Salt  lake.  This  is  the  report,  and 
which  I  believe  to  be  correct;  but  it  is  fresh  water,  while  the  other 
is  not  only  salt,  but  a  saturated  solution  of  salt;  and  here  is  a  problem 
which  requires  to  be  solved.  It  is  almost  entirely  surrounded  by 
mountains,  walled  on  the  north  and  east  by  a  high  and  snowy  range, 
which  supplies  to  it  a  fan  of  tributary  streams.  Among  these,  the 
principal  river  is  the  Timpan-ogo  [Provo  River] — signifying  Rock 
river — a  name  which  the  rocky  grandeur  of  its  scenery,  remarkable 
even  in  this  country  of  rugged  mountains,  has  obtained  for  it  from 
the  Indians.  In  the  Utah  language,  og-wdh-be,  the  term  for  river, 
when  coupled  with  other  words  in  common  conversation,  is  usually 
abbreviated  to  ogo;  timpan  signifying  rock.  It  is  probable  that  this 
river  furnished  the  name  which  on  the  older  maps  has  been  gen- 
erally applied  to  the  Great  Salt  lake;  but  for  this  I  have  preferred  a 
name  which  will  be  regarded  as  highly  characteristic,  restricting  to 
the  river  the  descriptive  term  Timpan-ogo,  and  leaving  for  the  lake 
into  which  it  flows  the  name  of  the  people  who  reside  on  its  shores, 
and  by  which  it  is  known  throughout  the  country. 

The  volume  of  water  afTorded  by  the  Timpan-ogo  is  probably 
equal  to  that  of  the  Sevier  river;  and,  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  there 
was  only  one  place  in  the  lake  valley  at  which  the  Spanish  fork  was 
fordable.  In  the  cove  of  mountains  along  its  eastern  shore,  the  lake 
is  bordered  by  a  plain,  where  the  soil  is  generally  good,  and  in 
greater  part  fertile;  watered  by  a  delta  of  prettily  timbered  streams. 
This  would  be  an  excellent  locality  for  stock  farms;  it  is  generally 
covered  with  good  bunch  grass,  and  would  abundantly  produce  the 
ordinary  grains. 

In  arriving  at  the  Utah  lake,  we  had  completed  an  immense  cir- 
cuit of  twelve  degrees  diameter  north  and  south,  and  ten  degrees 
east  and  west;  and  found  ourselves,  in  May,  1844,  on  the  same  sheet 

698 


of  water  which  we  had  left  in  September,  1843.  The  Utah  is  the 
southern  limb  of  the  Great  Salt  lake;  and  thus  we  had  seen  that 
remarkable  sheet  of  water  both  at  its  northern  and  southern  ex- 
tremity, and  were  able  to  fix  its  position  at  these  two  points.  The 
circuit  which  we  had  made,  and  which  had  cost  us  eight  months  of 
time,  and  3,500  miles  of  travelling,  had  given  us  a  view  of  Oregon 
and  of  North  California  from  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  Pacific 
ocean,  and  of  the  two  principal  streams  which  form  bays  or  harbors 
on  the  coast  of  that  sea.  Having  completed  this  circuit,  and  being 
now  about  to  turn  the  back  upon  the  Pacific  slope  of  our  continent, 
and  to  recross  the  Rocky  mountains,  it  is  natural  to  look  back  upon 
our  footsteps,  and  take  some  brief  view  of  the  leading  features  and 
general  structure  of  the  country  we  had  traversed.  These  are  pe- 
culiar and  striking,  and  differ  essentially  from  the  Atlantic  side  of 
our  country.  The  mountains  are  all  higher,  more  numerous,  and 
more  distinctly  defined  in  their  ranges  and  directions;  and,  what  is 
so  contrary  to  the  natural  order  of  such  formations,  one  of  these 
ranges,  which  is  near  the  coast,  (the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  Coast 
Range,)  presents  higher  elevations  and  peaks  than  any  which  are  to 
be  found  in  the  Rocky  mountains  themselves.  In  our  eight  months' 
circuit,  we  were  never  out  of  sight  of  snow;  and  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
where  we  crossed  it,  was  near  2,000  feet  higher  than  the  South  Pass 
in  the  Rocky  mountains.  In  height,  these  mountains  greatly  exceed 
those  of  the  Atlantic  side,  constantly  presenting  peaks  which  enter 
the  region  of  eternal  snow;  and  some  of  them  volcanic,  and  in  a 
frequent  state  of  activity.  They  are  seen  at  great  distances,  and  guide 
the  traveller  in  his  courses. 

The  course  and  elevation  of  these  ranges  give  direction  to  the 
rivers  and  character  to  the  coast.  No  great  river  does,  or  can,  take  its 
rise  below  the  Cascade  and  Sierra  Nevada  range;  the  distance  to  the 
sea  is  too  short  to  admit  of  it.  The  rivers  of  the  San  Francisco  bay, 
which  are  the  largest  after  the  Columbia,  are  local  to  that  bay,  and 
lateral  to  the  coast,  having  their  sources  about  on  a  line  with  the 
Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  and  running  each  in  a  valley  of  its  own,  be- 
tween coast  range  and  the  Cascade  and  Sierra  Nevada  range.  The 
Columbia  is  the  only  river  which  traverses  the  whole  breadth  of  the 
country,  breaking  through  all  the  ranges,  and  entering  the  sea. 
Drawing  its  waters  from  a  section  of  ten  degrees  of  latitude  in  the 
Rocky  mountains,  which  are  collected  into  one  stream  by  three  main 
forks  (Lewis's,  Clark's,  and  the  North  fork)  near  the  centre  of  the 

699 


Oregon  valley,  this  great  river  thence  proceeds  by  a  single  channel 
to  the  sea,  while  its  three  forks  lead  each  to  a  pass  in  the  mountains, 
which  opens  the  way  into  the  interior  of  the  continent.  This  fact  in 
relation  to  the  rivers  of  this  region  gives  an  immense  value  to  the 
Columbia.  Its  mouth  is  the  only  inlet  and  outlet  to  and  from  the 
sea;  its  three  forks  lead  to  the  passes  in  the  mountains;  it  is  therefore 
the  only  line  of  communication  between  the  Pacific  and  the  interior 
of  North  America;  and  all  operations  of  war  or  commerce,  of  na- 
tional or  social  intercourse,  must  be  conducted  upon  it.  This  gives  it 
a  value  beyond  estimation,  and  would  involve  irreparable  injury  if 
lost.  In  this  unity  and  concentration  of  its  waters,  the  Pacific  side  of 
our  continent  differs  entirely  from  the  Atlantic  side,  where  the 
waters  of  the  Allegany  mountains  are  dispersed  into  many  rivers, 
having  their  different  entrances  into  the  sea,  and  opening  many  lines 
of  communication  with  the  interior. 

The  Pacific  coast  is  equally  different  from  that  of  the  Atlantic.  The 
coast  of  the  Atlantic  is  low  and  open,  indented  with  numerous  bays, 
sounds,  and  river  estuaries,  accessible  every  where,  and  opening  by 
many  channels  into  the  heart  of  the  country.  The  Pacific  coast,  on 
the  contrary,  is  high  and  compact,  with  few  bays,  and  but  one  that 
opens  into  the  heart  of  the  country.  The  immediate  coast  is  what 
the  seamen  call  iron  bound.  A  little  within,  it  is  skirted  by  two  suc- 
cessive ranges  of  mountains,  standing  as  ramparts  between  the  sea 
and  the  interior  country;  and  to  get  through  which,  there  is  but  one 
gate,  and  that  narrow  and  easily  defended.  This  structure  of  the 
coast,  backed  by  these  two  ranges  of  mountains,  with  its  concentra- 
tion and  unity  of  waters,  gives  to  the  country  an  immense  military 
strength,  and  will  probably  render  Oregon  the  most  impregnable 
country  in  the  world. 

Differing  so  much  from  the  Atlantic  side  of  our  continent,  in 
coast,  mountains,  and  rivers,  the  Pacific  side  differs  from  it  in  an- 
other most  rare  and  singular  feature — that  of  the  Great  interior 
Basin,  of  which  I  have  so  often  spoken,  and  the  whole  form  and 
character  of  which  I  was  so  anxious  to  ascertain.  Its  existence  is 
vouched  for  by  such  of  the  American  traders  and  hunters  as  have 
some  knowledge  of  that  region;  the  structure  of  the  Sierra  Nevada 
range  of  mountains  requires  it  to  be  there;  and  my  own  observations 
confirm  it.  Mr.  Joseph  Walker,  who  is  so  well  acquainted  in  those 
parts,  informed  me  that,  from  the  Great  Salt  lake  west,  there  was  a 
succession  of  lakes  and  rivers  which  have  no  outlet  to  the  sea,  nor 

700 


any  connexion  with  the  Columbia,  or  with  the  Colorado  of  the  Gulf 
of  California.  He  described  some  of  these  lakes  as  being  large,  with 
numerous  streams,  and  even  considerable  rivers,  falling  into  them. 
In  fact,  all  concur  in  the  general  report  of  these  interior  rivers  and 
lakes;  and,  for  want  of  understanding  the  force  and  power  of  evap- 
oration, which  so  soon  establishes  an  equilibrium  between  the  loss 
and  supply  of  waters,  the  fable  of  whirlpools  and  subterraneous  out- 
lets has  gained  belief,  as  the  only  imaginable  way  of  carrying  off  the 
waters  which  have  no  visible  discharge.  The  structure  of  the  country 
would  require  this  formation  of  interior  lakes  for  the  waters  which 
would  collect  between  the  Rocky  mountains  and  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
not  being  able  to  cross  this  formidable  barrier,  nor  to  get  to  the 
Columbia  or  the  Colorado,  must  naturally  collect  into  reservoirs, 
each  of  which  would  have  its  little  system  of  streams  and  rivers  to 
supply  it.  This  would  be  the  natural  effect;  and  what  I  saw  went  to 
confirm  it.  The  Great  Salt  lake  is  a  formation  of  this  kind,  and  quite 
a  large  one;  and  having  many  streams,  and  one  considerable  river, 
four  or  five  hundred  miles  long,  falling  into  it.  This  lake  and  river 
I  saw  and  examined  myself;  and  also  saw  the  Wah-satch  and  Bear 
River  mountains  which  enclose  the  waters  of  the  lake  on  the  east, 
and  constitute,  in  that  quarter,  the  rim  of  the  Great  Basin.  After- 
wards, along  the  eastern  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  where  we  trav- 
elled for  forty-two  days,  I  saw  the  line  of  lakes  and  rivers  which  lie 
at  the  foot  of  that  Sierra;  and  which  Sierra  is  the  western  rim  of  the 
Basin.  In  going  down  Lewis's  fork  and  the  main  Columbia,  I  crossed 
only  inferior  streams  coming  in  from  the  left,  such  as  could  draw 
their  water  from  a  short  distance  only;  and  I  often  saw  the  moun- 
tains at  their  heads,  white  with  snow;  which,  all  accounts  said, 
divided  the  waters  of  the  desert  from  those  of  the  Columbia,  and 
which  could  be  no  other  than  the  range  of  mountains  which  form 
the  rim  of  the  Basin  on  its  northern  side.  And  in  returning  from 
California  along  the  Spanish  trail,  as  far  as  the  head  of  the  Santa 
Clara  fork  of  the  Rio  Virgen,  I  crossed  only  small  streams  making 
their  way  south  to  the  Colorado,  or  lost  in  sand — as  the  Mo-hah-ve; 
while  to  the  left,  lofty  mountains,  their  summits  white  with  snow, 
were  often  visible,  and  which  must  have  turned  water  to  the  north 
as  well  as  to  the  south,  and  thus  constituted,  on  this  part,  the  south- 
ern rim  of  the  Basin.  At  the  head  of  the  Santa  Clara  fork,  and  in  the 
Vegas  de  Santa  Clara,  we  crossed  the  ridge  which  parted  the  two 
systems  of  waters.  We  entered  the  Basin  at  that  point,  and  have 

701 


travelled  in  it  ever  since,  having  its  southeastern  rim  (the  Wah-satch 
mountain)  on  the  right,  and  crossing  the  streams  which  flow  down 
into  it.  The  existence  of  the  Basin  is  therefore  an  established  fact  in 
my  mind;  its  extent  and  contents  are  yet  to  be  better  ascertained.  It 
cannot  be  less  than  four  or  five  hundred  miles  each  way,  and  must 
lie  principally  in  the  Alta  California;  the  demarcation  latitude  of  42° 
probably  cutting  a  segment  from  the  north  part  of  the  rim.  Of  its 
interior,  but  little  is  known.  It  is  called  a  desert,  and,  from  what  I 
saw  of  it,  sterility  may  be  its  prominent  characteristic;  but  where 
there  is  so  much  water,  there  must  be  some  oasis.  The  great  river, 
and  the  great  lake,  reported,  may  not  be  equal  to  the  report;  but 
where  there  is  so  much  snow,  there  must  be  streams;  and  where 
there  is  no  outlet,  there  must  be  lakes  to  hold  the  accumulated 
waters,  or  sands  to  swallow  them  up.  In  this  eastern  part  of  the 
Basin,  containing  Sevier,  Utah,  and  the  Great  Salt  lakes,  and  the 
rivers  and  creeks  falling  into  them,  we  know  there  is  good  soil  and 
good  grass,  adapted  to  civilized  settlements.  In  the  western  part,  on 
Salmon  Trout  river,  and  some  other  streams,  the  same  remark  may 
be  made. 

The  contents  of  this  Great  Basin  are  yet  to  be  examined.  That  it  is 
peopled,  we  know;  but  miserably  and  sparsely.  From  all  that  I  heard 
and  saw,  I  should  say  that  humanity  here  appeared  in  its  lowest 
form,  and  in  its  most  elementary  state.  Dispersed  in  single  families; 
without  fire  arms;  eating  seeds  and  insects;  digging  roots,  (and 
hence  their  name) — such  is  the  condition  of  the  greater  part.  Others 
are  a  degree  higher,  and  live  in  communities  upon  some  lake  or 
river  that  supplies  fish,  and  from  which  they  repulse  the  miserable 
Digger.  The  rabbit  is  the  largest  animal  known  in  this  desert;  its 
flesh  affords  a  little  meat;  and  their  bag-like  covering  is  made  of  its 
skins.  The  wild  sage  is  their  only  wood,  and  here  it  is  of  extraordi- 
nary size — sometimes  a  foot  in  diameter,  and  six  or  eight  feet  high. 
It  serves  for  fuel,  for  building  material,  for  shelter  to  the  rabbits,  and 
for  some  sort  of  covering  for  the  feet  and  legs  in  cold  weather.  Such 
are  the  accounts  of  the  inhabitants  and  productions  of  the  Great 
Basin;  and  which,  though  imperfect,  must  have  some  foundation, 
and  excite  our  desire  to  know  the  whole. 

The  whole  idea  of  such  a  desert,  and  such  a  people,  is  a  novelty 
in  our  country,  and  excites  Asiatic,  not  American  ideas.  Interior 
basins,  with  their  own  systems  of  lakes  and  rivers,  and  often  sterile, 
are  common  enough  in  Asia;  people  still  in  the  elementary  state  of 

702 


families,  living  in  deserts,  with  no  other  occupation  than  the  mere 
animal  search  for  food,  may  still  be  seen  in  that  ancient  quarter  of 
the  globe;  but  in  America  such  things  are  new  and  strange,  un- 
known and  unsuspected,  and  discredited  when  related.  But  I  flatter 
myself  that  what  is  discovered,  though  not  enough  to  satisfy  curi- 
osity, is  sufficient  to  excite  it,  and  that  subsequent  explorations  will 
complete  what  has  been  commenced. 

This  account  of  the  Great  Basin,  it  will  be  remembered,  belongs 
to  the  Alta  California,  and  has  no  application  to  Oregon,  whose 
capabilities  may  justify  a  separate  remark.  Referring  to  my  journal 
for  particular  descriptions,  and  for  sectional  boundaries  between 
good  and  bad  districts,  I  can  only  say,  in  general  and  comparative 
terms,  that,  in  that  branch  of  agriculture  which  implies  the  cultiva- 
tion of  grains  and  staple  crops,  it  would  be  inferior  to  the  Atlantic 
States,  though  many  parts  are  superior  for  wheat;  while  in  the  rear- 
ing of  flocks  and  herds  it  would  claim  a  high  place.  Its  grazing 
capabilities  are  great;  and  even  in  the  indigenous  grass  now  there, 
an  element  of  individual  and  national  wealth  may  be  found.  In 
fact,  the  valuable  grasses  begin  within  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
of  the  Missouri  frontier,  and  extend  to  the  Pacific  ocean.  East  of  the 
Rocky  mountains,  it  is  the  short  curly  grass,  on  which  the  buffalo 
delight  to  feed,  (whence  its  name  of  buffalo,)  and  which  is  still  good 
when  dry  and  apparently  dead.  West  of  those  mountains  it  is  a 
larger  growth,  in  clusters,  and  hence  called  bunch  grass,  and  which 
has  a  second  or  fall  growth.  Plains  and  mountains  both  exhibit 
them;  and  I  have  seen  good  pasturage  at  an  elevation  of  ten  thou- 
sand feet.  In  this  spontaneous  product,  the  trading  or  travelling  cara- 
vans can  find  subsistence  for  their  animals;  and  in  military 
operations  any  number  of  cavalry  may  be  moved,  and  any  number 
of  cattle  may  be  driven;  and  thus  men  and  horses  be  supported  on 
long  expeditions,  and  even  in  winter  in  the  sheltered  situations. 

Commercially,  the  value  of  the  Oregon  country  must  be  great, 
washed  as  it  is  by  the  north  Pacific  ocean — fronting  Asia — producing 
many  of  the  elements  of  commerce — mild  and  healthy  in  its  climate 
— and  becoming,  as  it  naturally  will,  a  thoroughfare  for  the  East 
India  and  China  trade. 

Turning  our  faces  once  more  eastward,  on  the  morning  of  the 
27th  we  left  the  Utah  lake,  and  continued  for  two  days  to  ascend  the 
Spanish  fork,  which  is  dispersed  in  numerous  branches  among  very 

703 


rugged  mountains,  which  afford  few  passes,  and  render  a  familiar 
acquaintance  with  them  necessary  to  the  traveller.  The  stream  can 
scarcely  be  said  to  have  a  valley,  the  mountains  rising  often  abruptly 
from  the  water's  edge;  but  a  good  trail  facilitated  our  travelling,  and 
there  were  frequent  bottoms,  covered  with  excellent  grass.  The 
streams  are  prettily  and  variously  wooded;  and  every  where  the 
mountain  shows  grass  and  timber. 

At  our  encampment  on  the  evening  of  the  28th,  near  the  head  of 
one  of  the  branches  we  had  ascended,  strata  of  bituminous  limestone 
were  displayed  in  an  escarpment  on  the  river  bluffs,  in  which  were 
contained  a  variety  of  fossil  shells  of  new  species. 

It  will  be  remembered,  that  in  crossing  this  ridge  about  120  miles 
to  the  northward  in  August  last,  strata  of  fossiliferous  rock  were  dis- 
covered, which  have  been  referred  to  the  oolitic  period;  it  is  prob- 
able that  these  rocks  also  belong  to  the  same  formation. 

A  few  miles  from  this  encampment  we  reached  the  head  of  the 
stream;  and  crossing  by  an  open  and  easy  pass,  the  dividing  ridge 
which  separates  the  waters  of  the  Great  Basin  from  those  of  the 
Colorado,  we  reached  the  head  branches  of  one  of  its  larger  tribu- 
taries, which,  from  the  decided  color  of  its  waters,  has  received  the 
name  of  White  [Price]  river.  The  snows  of  the  mountains  were 
now  beginning  to  melt,  and  all  the  little  rivulets  were  running  by 
in  rivers,  and  rapidly  becoming  difficult  to  ford.  Continuing  a  few 
miles  up  a  branch  of  White  river,  we  crossed  a  dividing  ridge  be- 
tween its  waters  and  those  of  the  Uintah.  The  approach  to  the  pass, 
which  is  the  best  known  to  Mr.  Walker,  was  somewhat  difficult  for 
packs,  and  impracticable  for  wagons — all  the  streams  being  shut  in 
by  narrow  ravines,  and  the  narrow  trail  along  the  steep  hill  sides 
allowing  the  passage  of  only  one  animal  at  a  time.  From  the  sum- 
mit we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  snowy  Bear  River  range;  and  there 
were  still  remaining  beds  of  snow  on  the  cold  sides  of  the  hills  near 
the  pass.  We  descended  by  a  narrow  ravine,  in  which  was  rapidly 
gathered  a  little  branch  [Strawberry]  of  the  Uintah,  and  halted  to 
noon  about  1,500  feet  below  the  pass,  at  an  elevation,  by  the  boiling 
point,  of  6,900  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  next  day  [30  May]  we  descended  along  the  river,  and  about 
noon  reached  a  point  where  three  forks  come  together.  Fording  one 
of  these  with  some  difficulty,  we  continued  up  the  middle  branch, 
which,  from  the  color  of  its  waters,  is  named  the  Red  [Strawberry] 


704 


river.  The  few  passes,  and  extremely  rugged  nature  of  the  country, 
give  to  it  great  strength,  and  secure  the  Utahs  from  the  intrusion  of 
their  enemies.  Crossing  in  the  afternoon  a  somewhat  broken  high- 
land, covered  in  places  with  fine  grasses,  and  with  cedar  on  the  hill 
sides,  we  encamped  at  evening  on  another  tributary  to  the  Uintah, 
called  the  Duchesne  fork.  The  water  was  very  clear,  the  stream  not 
being  yet  swollen  by  the  melting  snows;  and  we  forded  it  without 
any  difficulty.  It  is  a  considerable  branch,  being  spread  out  by  islands, 
the  largest  arm  being  about  a  hundred  feet  wide;  and  the  name  it 
bears  is  probably  that  of  some  old  French  trapper. 

The  next  day  we  continued  down  the  river,  which  we  were  twice 
obliged  to  cross;  and,  the  water  having  risen  during  the  night,  it 
was  almost  every  where  too  deep  to  be  forded.  After  travelling  about 
sixteen  miles,  we  encamped  again  on  the  left  bank.^^^ 

I  obtained  here  an  occultation  of  8  Scorpii  at  the  dark  limb  of  the 
moon,  which  gives  for  the  longitude  of  the  place  112°  18' 30'',  and 
the  latitude  40°  18' 53". 

June  1. — We  left  to-day  the  Duchesne  fork,  and,  after  traversing  a 
broken  country  for  about  sixteen  miles,  arrived  at  noon  at  another 
considerable  branch,  a  river  of  great  velocity,  to  which  the  trappers 
have  improperly  given  the  name  of  Lake  Fork.  The  name  applied  to 
it  by  the  Indians  signifies  great  swiftness,  and  is  the  same  which  they 
use  to  express  the  speed  of  a  race  horse.  It  is  spread  out  in  various 
channels  over  several  hundred  yards,  and  is  every  where  too  deep 
and  swift  to  be  forded.  At  this  season  of  the  year,  there  is  an  uninter- 
rupted noise  from  the  large  rocks  which  are  rolled  along  the  bed. 
After  infinite  difficulty,  and  the  delay  of  a  day,  we  succeeded  in 
getting  the  stream  bridged,  and  got  over  with  the  loss  of  one  of  our 


176.  JCF's  narrative  and  map  do  not  agree  here,  and  the  narrative  is  in 
error.  The  route  from  27  through  31  May  has  taken  the  party  to  the  head- 
waters of  Spanish  Fork  in  the  Wasatch  Mountains,  across  the  divide  at 
Soldier  Summit  into  the  Colorado  River  basin,  to  the  waters  of  what  was  then 
the  South  White  and  is  now  the  Price.  Ascending  a  small  branch  of  the  Price, 
JCF's  expedition  reached  the  headwaters  of  the  "Uinta"  on  29  May.  He  then 
descended  Avintaquin  Creek  to  its  confluence  with  the  Strawberry  River, 
nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  Red  Creek.  Then  he  crossed  the  Strawberry  and 
went  up  the  northern  branch.  Red  Creek.  To  have  ascended  the  "middle" 
branch  would  have  taken  him  up  the  Strawberry  through  its  canyons  into 
Strawberry  Valley,  then  back  across  the  Wasatch  to  Utah  Valley.  According  to 
present  usage,  the  Duchesne  is  considered  the  main  river,  the  Strawberry  and 
the  Uinta  affluents. 


705 


animals.  Continuing  our  route  across  a  broken  country,  of  which 
the  higher  parts  were  rocky  and  timbered  with  cedar,  and  the  lower 
parts  covered  with  good  grass,  we  reached,  on  the  afternoon  of  the 
3d,  the  Uintah  fort,  a  trading  post  belonging  to  Mr.  A.  Roubideau,  on 
the  principal  fork  of  the  Uintah  river.^"  We  found  the  stream  nearly 
as  rapid  and  difficult  as  the  Lake  fork,  divided  into  several  channels, 
which  were  too  broad  to  be  bridged.  With  the  aid  of  guides  from  the 
fort,  we  succeeded,  with  very  great  difficulty,  in  fording  it;  and  en- 
camped near  the  fort,  which  is  situated  a  short  distance  above  the 
junction  of  two  branches  which  make  the  river. 

By  an  immersion  of  the  1st  satellite,  (agreeing  well  with  the  re- 
sult of  the  occultation  observed  at  the  Duchesne  fork,)  the  longitude 
of  the  post  is  109°  56'  42",  the  latitude  40°  2/  45". 

It  has  a  motley  garrison  of  Canadian  and  Spanish  engages  and 
hunters,  with  the  usual  number  of  Indian  women.  We  obtained  a 
small  supply  of  sugar  and  coffee,  with  some  dried  meat  and  a  cow, 
which  was  a  very  acceptable  change  from  the  p'moli  on  which  we 
had  subsisted  for  some  weeks  past.  I  strengthened  my  party  at  this 
place  by  the  addition  of  Auguste  Archambeau,  an  excellent  voyageur 
and  hunter,  belonging  to  the  class  of  Carson  and  Godey.^^^ 

On  the  morning  of  the  5th  we  left  the  fort*  and  the  Uintah  river, 

*  This  fort  was  attacked  and  taken  by  a  band  of  the  Utah  Indians  since  we 
passed  it;  and  the  men  of  the  garrison  killed,  the  women  carried  off.  Mr. 
Roubideau,  a  trader  of  St.  Louis,  was  absent,  and  so  escaped  the  fate  of  the 
rest. 


177.  Antoine  Robidoux  (1794-1860),  a  naturalized  Mexican  citizen  from 
Florissant,  Mo.  After  1825,  he  became  associated  with  the  fur  trade  around 
Santa  Fe,  Taos,  and  the  intermontane  corridor  northwest  of  New  Mexico.  The 
last  years  of  his  life  were  spent  in  St.  Joseph,  Mo.,  a  town  founded  by  his 
brother,  Joseph  Robidoux  III.  Antoine  Robidoux  actually  had  two  forts, 
and  authorities  differ  as  to  the  dates  of  establishment  as  well  as  the  mode  of 
destruction.  Wallace,  his  biographer,  thinks  that  Fort  Uintah  (sometimes 
known  as  Fort  Wintey  or  Fort  Robidoux)  was  established  in  the  early  1840s 
at  the  fork  of  Uinta  River  and  White  Rocks  Creek,  and  was  attacked  by 
Indians  in  the  winter  of  1844-45,  as  JCF  indicates  below.  On  the  other  hand, 
MORGAN  [2],  216,  218,  believes  it  was  established  as  early  as  1837  and  contends 
it  was  Fort  Uncompagre  (on  the  Gunnison)  which  was  attacked  by  Utes.  After 
the  destruction  of  Fort  Uncompagre,  Robidoux  abandoned  Fort  Uintah  and  it 
was  eventually  burned  by  mountain  man  Jim  Baker  to  prevent  renewed  com- 
petition for  the  Ute  trade. 

178.  Francois  Perrault  was  discharged  here.  Thomas  Cowie,  who  had 
emigrated  to  California  in  1843  with  the  Chiles-Walker  party,  was— along 
with  Archambeault — added  to  the  expedition.  Cowie  was  probably  one  of  the 
eight  men  traveling  with  Walker  when  he  joined  JCF  as  a  guide  on  25  May, 

706 


and  continued  our  road  over  a  broken  country,  which  afforded,  how- 
ever, a  rich  addition  to  our  botanical  collection  ;^^^  and,  after  a  march 
of  25  miles,  were  again  checked  by  another  stream,  called  Ashley's 
fork,  where  we  were  detained  until  noon  of  the  next  day. 

An  immersion  of  the  2d  satellite  gave  for  this  place  a  longitude  of 
109°  2/  or,  the  latitude  by  observation  being  40°  28'  07". 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day  we  succeeded  in  finding  a  ford; 
and,  after  travelling  fifteen  miles,  encamped  high  up  on  the  moun- 
tain side,  where  we  found  excellent  and  abundant  grass,  which  we 
had  not  hitherto  seen.  A  new  species  of  elymus}^^  which  had  a 
purgative  and  weakening  effect  upon  the  animals,  had  occurred 
abundantly  since  leaving  the  fort.  From  this  point,  by  observation 
7,300  feet  above  the  sea,  we  had  a  view  of  the  Colorado  [Green] 
below,  shut  up  amongst  rugged  mountains,  and  which  is  the  re- 
cipient of  all  the  streams  we  had  been  crossing  since  we  passed  the 
rim  of  the  Great  Basin  at  the  head  of  the  Spanish  fork. 

On  the  7th  we  had  a  pleasant  but  long  day's  journey,  through 
beautiful  little  valleys  and  a  high  mountain  country,  arriving  about 
evening  at  the  verge  of  a  steep  and  rocky  ravine,  by  which  we  de- 
scended to  "Brown  s  hole."^^^  This  is  a  place  well  known  to  trappers 
in  the  country,  where  the  caiions  through  which  the  Colorado  runs 
expand  into  a  narrow  but  pretty  valley,  about  sixteen  miles  in  length. 
The  river  was  several  hundred  yards  in  breadth,  swollen  to  the  top 
of  its  banks,  near  to  which  it  was  in  many  places  fifteen  to  twenty 
feet  deep.  We  repaired  a  skin  boat  which  had  been  purchased  at  the 
fort,  and,  after  a  delay  of  a  day,  reached  the  opposite  banks  with 
much  less  delay  than  had  been  encountered  on  the  Uintah  waters. 
According  to  information,  the  lower  end  of  the  valley  is  the  most 

and  only  now  becomes  a  paid  member  of  the  party.  In  Feb.  1844,  Walker 
had  applied  to  the  Mexican  authorities  in  California  for  a  pass  for  Cowie. 
Cowie  later  returned  to  California,  joined  the  Bear  Flaggers,  and  was  killed 
near  Santa  Rosa. 

179.  JCF  became,  in  1844  and  again  in  1845,  the  first  man  to  make  botani- 
cal collections  in  the  Uinta  Basin.  Not  until  the  twentieth  century  were  collec- 
tions again  made  there  (mc  kelvey,  878). 

180.  Not  identified. 

181.  Now  Brown's  Park,  an  area  lying  within  the  boundaries  of  Dinosaur 
National  Monument  in  northwestern  Colorado  and  northeastern  Utah.  Local 
residents  distinguish  between  Brown's  Park  (a  large  valley)  and  Brown's 
Hole,  a  smaller  valley  within  the  park.  JCF  camped  a  mile  or  so  above  the 
point  where  the  (Ireen  River  disappears  through  the  Gate  of  Lodore  into 
Lodore  Canyon. 

707 


eastern  part  of  the  Colorado;  and  the  latitude  of  our  encampment, 
which  was  opposite  to  the  remains  of  an  old  fort^^^  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  river,  was  40°  46'  27",  and,  by  observation,  the  elevation  above 
the  sea  5,150  feet.  The  bearing  to  the  entrance  of  the  canon  below 
was  south  20°  east.  Here  the  river  enters  between  lofty  precipices  of 
red  rock,  and  the  country  below  is  said  to  assume  a  very  rugged 
character;  the  river  and  its  affluents  passing  through  canons  which 
forbid  all  access  to  the  water.  This  sheltered  little  valley  was  formerly 
a  favorite  wintering  ground  for  the  trappers,  as  it  afforded  them 
sufficient  pasturage  for  their  animals,  and  the  surrounding  moun- 
tains are  well  stocked  with  game. 

We  surprised  a  flock  of  mountain  sheep  as  we  descended  to  the 
river,  and  our  hunters  killed  several.  The  bottoms  of  a  small  stream 
called  the  Vermillion  creek,  which  enters  the  left  bank  of  the  river  a 
short  distance  below  our  encampment,  were  covered  abundantly 
with  F.  vermicularis,  and  other  chenopodiaceous  shrubs.  From  the 
lower  end  of  Brown's  hole  we  issued  by  a  remarkably  dry  cafion, 
fifty  or  sixty  yards  wide,  and  rising,  as  we  advanced,  to  the  height 
of  six  or  eight  hundred  feet.  Issuing  from  this,  and  crossing  a  small 
green  valley,  we  entered  another  rent  of  the  same  nature,  still  nar- 
rower than  the  other,  the  rocks  on  either  side  rising  in  nearly  verti- 
cal precipices  perhaps  1,500  feet  in  height.  These  places  are 
mentioned,  to  give  some  idea  of  the  country  lower  down  on  the 
Colorado,  to  which  the  trappers  usually  apply  the  name  of  a  canon 
country.  The  canon  opened  upon  a  pond  of  water,  where  we  halted 
to  noon.  Several  flocks  of  mountain  sheep  were  here  among  the 
rocks,  which  rung  with  volleys  of  small  arms.  In  the  afternoon  we 
entered  upon  an  ugly,  barren,  and  broken  country,  corresponding 
well  with  that  we  had  traversed  a  few  degrees  north,  on  the  same 
side  of  the  Colorado.  The  Vermillion  creek  afiforded  us  brackish 
water  and  indifferent  grass  for  the  night. 

A  few  scattered  cedar  trees  were  the  only  improvement  of  the 
country  on  the  following  day;  and  at  a  little  spring  of  bad  water, 
where  we  halted  to  noon,  we  had  not  even  the  shelter  of  these  from 
the  hot  rays  of  the  sun.  At  night  we  encamped  in  a  fine  grove  of 


182.  Fort  Davy  Crockett,  according  to  l.  hafen  [1  ].  Carson  had  spent  much 
time  there  and  must  have  been  able  to  tell  his  chief  something  of  the  fort's  his- 
tory, but  nothing  of  this  is  recorded  by  JCF. 


708 


Cottonwood  trees,  on  the  banks  of  the  Elk  Head  river,  the  principal 
fork  of  the  Yampah  river,  commonly  called  by  the  trappers  the  Bear 
river.  We  made  here  a  very  strong  coral  and  fort,  and  formed  the 
camp  into  vigilant  guards.  The  country  we  were  now  entering  is 
constantly  infested  by  war  parties  of  the  Sioux  and  other  Indians, 
and  is  considered  among  the  most  dangerous  war  grounds  in  the 
Rocky  mountains;  parties  of  whites  having  been  repeatedly  de- 
feated on  this  river. 

On  the  11th  we  continued  up  the  river,  which  is  a  considerable 
stream,  fifty  to  a  hundred  yards  in  width,  handsomely  and  con- 
tinuously wooded  with  groves  of  the  narrow-leaved  cottonwood, 
{populus  atigustijolia;)  with  these  were  thickets  of  willow  and 
grain  du  beouf.  The  characteristic  plant  along  the  river  is  F.  vermi- 
cularis,  which  generally  covers  the  bottoms;  mingled  with  this,  are 
saline  shrubs  and  artemisia.  The  new  variety  of  grass  which  we  had 
seen  on  leaving  the  Uintah  fort  had  now  disappeared.  The  country 
on  either  side  was  sandy  and  poor,  scantily  wooded  with  cedars,  but 
the  river  bottoms  afforded  good  pasture.  Three  antelopes  were  killed 
in  the  afternoon,  and  we  encamped  a  little  below  a  branch  of  the 
river,  called  St.  Vrain's  fork.^^'*  A  few  miles  above  was  the  fort  at 
which  Frapp's  [Fraeb's]  party  had  been  defeated  two  years  since; 
and  we  passed  during  the  day  a  place  where  Carson  had  been  fired 
upon  so  close  that  one  of  the  men  had  five  bullets  through  his  body. 
Leaving  this  river  the  next  morning,  we  took  our  way  across  the 
hills,  where  every  hollow  had  a  spring  of  running  water,  with  good 
grass. 

Yesterday  and  to-day  we  have  had  before  our  eyes  the  high  moun- 
tains which  divide  the  Pacific  from  the  Mississippi  waters;  and  enter- 
ing here  among  the  lower  spurs,  or  foot  hills  of  the  range,  the  face 
of  the  country  began  to  improve  with  a  magical  rapidity.  Not  only 
the  river  bottoms,  but  the  hills,  were  covered  with  grass;  and  among 
the  usual  varied  flora  of  the  mountain  region,  these  were  occasionally 
blue  with  the  showy  bloom  of  a  lupinus.  In  the  course  of  the  morning 
we  had  the  first  glad  view  of  buffalo,  and  welcomed  the  appear- 


183.  The  route  of  8-11  June  has  taken  the  expedition  from  Brown's  Park, 
up  Vermillion  Creek  for  two  nights  of  camping  on  the  Little  Snake,  which 
JCF  mistakenly  calls  the  Elk  Head  (another  tributary  of  the  Yampa,  farther 
south).  He  camps  on  Battle  Creek,  at  the  mouth  of  which,  in  Routt  County, 
Colo.,  just  below  the  Wyoming  line,  Henry  Fraeb  was  killed. 


709 


ance  of  two  old  bulls  with  as  much  joy  as  if  they  had  been  messen- 
gers from  home;  and  when  we  descended  to  noon  on  St.  Vrain's 
fork,  an  affluent  of  Green  river,  the  hunters  brought  in  mountain 
sheep  and  the  meat  of  two  fat  bulls.  Fresh  entrails  in  the  river 
showed  us  that  there  were  Indians  above;  and,  at  evening,  judging 
it  unsafe  to  encamp  in  the  bottoms,  which  were  wooded  only  with 
willow  thickets,  we  ascended  to  the  spurs  above,  and  forted  strongly 
in  a  small  aspen  grove,  near  to  which  was  a  spring  of  cold  water. 
The  hunters  killed  two  fine  cows  near  the  camp.  A  band  of  elk 
broke  out  of  a  neighboring  grove;  antelopes  were  running  over  the 
hills;  and  on  the  opposite  river  plains,  herds  of  buffalo  were  raising 
clouds  of  dust.  The  country  here  appeared  more  variously  stocked 
with  game  than  any  part  of  the  Rocky  mountains  we  had  visited; 
and  its  abundance  is  owing  to  the  excellent  pasturage,  and  its  danger- 
ous character  as  a  war  ground. 

]une  13. — There  was  snow  here  near  our  mountain  camp,  and  the 
morning  was  beautiful  and  cool.  Leaving  St.  Vrain's  fork,  we  took 
our  way  directly  towards  the  summit  of  the  dividing  ridge.  The  bot- 
toms of  the  streams  and  level  places  were  wooded  with  aspens;  and 
as  we  neared  the  summit,  we  entered  again  the  piney  region.  We  had 
a  delightful  morning's  ride,  the  ground  affording  us  an  excellent 
bridle  path,  and  reached  the  summit  towards  midday,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  8,000  feet.  With  joy  and  exultation  we  saw  ourselves  once 
more  on  the  top  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  beheld  a  little  stream 
taking  its  course  towards  the  rising  sun.  It  was  an  affluent  of  the 
Platte,  called  Pullam's  fork,  and  we  descended  to  noon  upon  it.  It  is 
a  pretty  stream,  twenty  yards  broad,  and  bears  the  name  of  a  trap- 
per who,  some  years  since,  was  killed  here  by  the  Gros  Ventre  In- 
dians. 

Issuing  from  the  pines  in  the  afternoon,  we  saw  spread  out  before 
us  the  valley  of  the  Platte,  with  the  pass  of  the  Medicine  Butte  be- 
yond, and  some  of  the  Sweet  Water  mountains;  but  a  smoky  hazi- 
ness in  the  air  entirely  obscured  the  Wind  River  chain. 

We  were  now  about  two  degrees  south  of  the  South  Pass,  and  our 
course  home  would  have  been  eastwardly;  but  that  would  have 
taken  us  over  ground  already  examined,  and  therefore  without  the 
interest  which  would  excite  curiosity.  Southwardly  there  were  ob- 
jects worthy  to  be  explored,  to  wit:  the  approximation  of  the  head 
waters  of  three  different  rivers — the  Platte,  the  Arkansas,  and  the 


710 


Grand  River  fork  of  the  Rio  Colorado  of  the  gulf  of  CaHfornia;  the 
Passes  at  the  heads  of  these  rivers;  and  the  three  remarkable  moun- 
tain coves,  called  Parks,  in  which  they  took  their  rise.  One  of  these 
Parks  was,  of  course,  on  the  western  side  of  the  dividing  ridge;  and  a 
visit  to  it  would  require  us  once  more  to  cross  the  summit  of  the 
Rocky  mountains  to  the  west,  and  then  to  re-cross  to  the  east;  mak- 
ing, in  all,  with  the  transit  we  had  just  accomplished,  three  crossings 
of  that  mountain  in  this  section  of  its  course.  But,  no  matter.  The 
coves,  the  heads  of  the  rivers,  the  approximation  of  their  waters,  the 
practicability  of  the  mountain  passes,  and  the  locality  of  the  Three 
Parks,  were  all  objects  of  interest,  and,  although  well  known  to 
hunters  and  trappers,  were  unknown  to  science  and  to  history.  We 
therefore  changed  our  course,  and  turned  up  the  valley  of  the  Platte 
instead  of  going  down  it. 

We  crossed  several  small  affluents,  and  again  made  a  fortified 
camp  in  a  grove.  The  country  had  now  become  very  beautiful— rich 
in  water,  grass,  and  game;  and  to  these  were  added  the  charm  of 
scenery  and  pleasant  weather.^^^ 

]une  14.— Our  route  this  morning  lay  along  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain, over  the  long  low  spurs  which  sloped  gradually  down  to  the 
river,  forming  the  broad  valley  of  the  Platte.  The  country  is  beauti- 
fully watered.  In  almost  every  hollow  ran  a  clear,  cool  mountain 
stream ;  and  in  the  course  of  the  morning  we  crossed  seventeen,  sev- 
eral of  them  being  large  creeks,  forty  to  fifty  feet  wide,  with  a  swift 
current,  and  tolerably  deep.  These  were  variously  wooded  with 
groves  of  aspen  and  cottonwood,  with  willow,  cherry,  and  other 
shrubby  trees.  Buffalo,  antelope,  and  elk,  were  frequent  during  the 
day;  and,  in  their  abundance,  the  latter  sometimes  reminded  us 
slightly  of  the  Sacramento  valley. 

We  halted  at  noon  on  Potter's  fork— a  clear  and  swift  stream, 
forty  yards  wide,  and  in  many  places  deep  enough  to  swim  our  ani- 
mals; and  in  the  evening  encamped  on  a  pretty  stream,  where  there 
were  several  beaver  dams,  and  many  trees  recently  cut  down  by  the 
beaver.  We  gave  to  this  the  name  of  Beaver  Dam  creek,  as  now  they 
are  becoming  sufficiently  rare  to  distinguish  by  their  name  the 
streams  on  which  they  are  found.  In  this  mountain  they  occurred 


184.  JCF  has  crossed  the  Continental  Divide  in  the  Sierra  Madre  range,  and 
descended  to  the  valley  of  the  North  Platte  along  one  of  its  affluents  in  Carbon 
County,  Wyo. 


711 


more  abundantly  than  elsewhere  in  all  our  journey,  in  which  their 
vestiges  had  been  scarcely  seen. 

The  next  day  we  continued  our  journey  up  the  valley,  the  country 
presenting  much  the  same  appearance,  except  that  the  grass  was 
more  scanty  on  the  ridges,  over  which  was  spread  a  scrubby  growth 
of  sage ;  but  still  the  bottoms  of  the  creeks  were  broad,  and  afforded 
good  pasture  grounds.  We  had  an  animated  chase  after  a  grizzly 
bear  this  morning,  which  we  tried  to  lasso.  Fuentes  threw  the  lasso 
upon  his  neck,  but  it  slipped  off,  and  he  escaped  into  the  dense 
thickets  of  the  creek,  into  which  we  did  not  like  to  venture.  Our 
course  in  the  afternoon  brought  us  to  the  main  Platte  river,  here  a 
handsome  stream,  with  a  uniform  breadth  of  seventy  yards,  except 
where  widened  by  frequent  islands.  It  was  apparently  deep,  with  a 
moderate  current,  and  wooded  with  groves  of  large  willow. 

The  valley  narrowed  as  we  ascended,  and  presently  degenerated 
into  a  gorge,  through  which  the  river  passed  as  through  a  gate.  We 
entered  it,  and  found  ourselves  in  the  New  Park — a  beautiful  circular 
valley  of  thirty  miles  diameter,  walled  in  all  round  with  snowy 
mountains,  rich  with  water  and  with  grass,  fringed  with  pine  on  the 
mountain  sides  below  the  snow  line,  and  a  paradise  to  all  grazing 
animals.  The  Indian  name  for  it  signifies  "cow  lodge','  of  which  our 
own  may  be  considered  a  translation;  the  enclosure,  the  grass,  the 
water,  and  the  herds  of  buffalo  roaming  over  it,  naturally  presenting 
the  idea  of  a  park.  We  halted  for  the  night  just  within  the  gate,  and 
expected,  as  usual,  to  see  herds  of  buffalo;  but  an  Arapahoe  village 
had  been  before  us,  and  not  one  was  to  be  seen.  Latitude  of  the  en- 
campment 40°  52'  44".  Elevation  by  the  boiling  point,  7,720  feet.^^^ 

It  is  from  this  elevated  cove,  and  from  the  gorges  of  the  surround- 
ing mountains,  and  some  lakes  within  their  bosoms,  that  the  Great 
Platte  river  collects  its  first  waters,  and  assumes  its  first  form;  and 
certainly  no  river  could  ask  a  more  beautiful  origin. 

]une  16. — In  the  morning  we  pursued  our  way  through  the  Park, 
following  a  principal  branch  of  the  Platte,  and  crossing,  among 
many  smaller  ones,  a  bold  stream,  scarcely  fordable,  called  Lodge 
Pole  fork,  and  which  issues  from  a  lake  in  the  mountains  on  the  right. 


185.  Up  the  North  Platte  Valley  on  14  and  15  June.  His  Potter's  Fork 
may  be  present  Encampment  River,  and  Beaver  Dam  Creek  now  Beaver 
Creek.  On  the  15th,  he  entered  "New  Park,"  now  North  Park,  where  the 
river  passes  between  Independence  Mountain  and  Watson  Mountain,  not  far 
from  Colorado  highway  125. 

712 


ten  miles  long.  In  the  evening  we  encamped  on  a  small  stream,  near 
the  upper  end  of  the  Park.^^^  Latitude  of  the  camp  40°  33'  22". 

June  17. — We  continued  our  way  among  the  waters  of  the  Park, 
over  the  foot  hills  of  the  bordering  mountains,  where  we  found  good 
pasturage,  and  surprised  and  killed  some  buffalo.  We  fell  into  a 
broad  and  excellent  trail,  made  by  buffalo,  where  a  wagon  would 
pass  with  ease;  and,  in  the  course  of  the  morning,  we  [re]crossed  the 
summit  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  through  a  pass  which  was  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  we  had  ever  seen.  The  trail  led  among  the  aspens, 
through  open  grounds,  richly  covered  with  grass,  and  carried  us 
over  an  elevation  of  about  9,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  country  appeared  to  great  advantage  in  the  delightful  summer 
weather  of  the  mountains,  which  we  still  continued  to  enjoy.  De- 
scending from  the  pass,  we  found  ourselves  again  on  the  western 
waters;  and  halted  to  noon  on  the  edge  of  another  mountain  valley, 
called  the  Old  Park,  in  which  is  formed  Grand  river,  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal branches  of  the  Colorado  of  California.  We  were  now  moving 
with  some  caution,  as,  from  the  trail,  we  found  the  Arapahoe  village 
had  also  passed  this  way.  As  we  were  coming  out  of  their  enemy's 
country,  and  this  was  a  war  ground,  we  were  desirous  to  avoid  them. 
After  a  long  afternoon's  march,  we  halted  at  night  on  a  small  creek, 
tributary  to  a  main  fork  of  Grand  river,  which  ran  through  this  por- 
tion of  the  valley.^^"  The  appearance  of  the  country  in  the  Old  Park 
is  interesting,  though  of  a  different  character  from  the  New;  instead 
of  being  a  comparative  plain,  it  is  more  or  less  broken  into  hills,  and 
surrounded  by  the  high  mountains,  timbered  on  the  lower  parts  with 
quaking  asp  and  pines. 

]une  18. — Our  scouts,  who  were  as  usual  ahead,  made  from  a  butte 
this  morning  the  signal  of  Indians,  and  we  rode  up  in  time  to  meet  a 
party  of  about  30  Arapahoes.  They  were  men  and  women  going  into 
the  hills — the  men  for  game,  the  women  for  roots — and  informed  us 
that  the  village  was  encamped  a  few  miles  above,  on  the  main  fork 
of  Grand  river,  which  passes  through  the  midst  of  the  valley.  I  made 


186.  The  campsite  for  today  is  not  determined,  but  the  stream  he  calls 
Lodge  Pole  Fork  may  be  the  north  fork  of  the  North  Platte,  which  is  joined 
by  Lake  Creek  before  it  reaches  the  main  North  Platte.  A  lake  now  called 
Lake  John,  and  some  smaller  ones,  lie  in  the  foothills  to  the  right. 

187.  Recrossing  the  Divide  about  where  it  is  intersected  by  U.S.  highway 
40,  the  expedition  has  camped  on  Muddy  Creek,  an  affluent  of  the  Colorado. 
The  party  is  now  in  Middle  Park. 


them  the  usual  presents;  but  they  appeared  disposed  to  be  unfriendly, 
and  galloped  back  at  speed  to  the  village.  Knowing  that  we  had 
trouble  to  expect,  I  descended  immediately  into  the  bottoms  of 
Grand  river,  which  were  overflowed  in  places,  the  river  being  up, 
and  made  the  best  encampment  the  ground  afforded.  We  had  no 
time  to  build  a  fort,  but  found  an  open  place  among  the  willows, 
which  was  defended  by  the  river  on  one  side  and  the  overflowed  bot- 
toms on  the  other.  We  had  scarcely  made  our  few  preparations, 
when  about  200  of  them  appeared  on  the  verge  of  the  bottom, 
mounted,  painted,  and  armed  for  war.  We  planted  the  American  flag 
between  us;  and  a  short  parley  ended  in  a  truce,  with  something 
more  than  the  usual  amount  of  presents.  About  20  Sioux  were  with 
them — one  of  them  an  old  chief,  who  had  always  been  friendly  to 
the  whites.  He  informed  me  that,  before  coming  down,  a  council 
had  been  held  at  the  village,  in  which  the  greater  part  had  declared 
for  attacking  us — we  had  come  from  their  enemies,  to  whom  we 
had  doubtless  been  carrying  assistance  in  arms  and  ammunition ;  but 
his  own  party,  with  some  few  of  the  Arapahoes  who  had  seen  us  the 
previous  year  in  the  plains,  opposed  it.  It  will  be  remembered  that  it 
is  customary  for  this  people  to  attack  the  trading  parties  which  they 
meet  in  this  region,  considering  all  whom  they  meet  on  the  western 
side  of  the  mountains  to  be  their  enemies.  They  deceived  me  into  the 
belief  that  I  should  find  a  ford  at  their  village,  and  I  could  not  avoid 
accompanying  them;  but  put  several  sloughs  between  us  and  their 
village,  and  forted  strongly  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  which  was 
every  where  rapid  and  deep,  and  over  a  hundred  yards  in  breadth.  The 
camp  was  generally  crowded  with  Indians;  and  though  the  baggage 
was  carefully  watched  and  covered,  a  number  of  things  were  stolen. 
The  next  morning  we  descended  the  river  for  about  eight  miles, 
and  halted  a  short  distance  above  a  canon,  through  which  Grand 
river  issues  from  the  Park.^^^  Here  it  was  smooth  and  deep,  150  yards 
in  breadth,  and  its  elevation  at  this  point  6,700  feet.  A  frame  for  the 
boat  being  very  soon  made,  our  baggage  was  ferried  across;  the 
horses,  in  the  mean  time,  swimming  over.  A  southern  fork  of  Grand 
river  here  makes  its  junction,  nearly  opposite  to  the  branch  by  which 


188.  JCF  has  descended  the  Colorado  through  Middle  Park  and  is  now 
camping  near  Gore  Canyon  in  the  vicinity  of  Kremmling,  Colo.,  near  where 
the  present  Blue  River  comes  in  from  the  south. 


714 


we  had  entered  the  valley,  and  up  this  we  continued  for  about  eight 
miles  in  the  afternoon,  and  encamped  in  a  bottom  on  the  left  bank, 
which  afforded  good  grass.  At  our  encampment  it  was  70  to  90  yards 
in  breadth,  sometimes  widened  by  islands,  and  separated  into  several 
channels,  with  a  very  swift  current  and  bed  of  rolled  rocks. 

On  the  20th^^''  we  travelled  up  the  left  bank,  with  the  prospect  of 
a  bad  road,  the  trail  here  taking  the  opposite  side;  but  the  stream  was 
up,  and  nowhere  fordable.  A  piney  ridge  of  mountains,  with  bare 
rocky  peaks,  was  on  our  right  all  the  day,  and  a  snowy  mountain  ap- 
peared ahead.  We  crossed  many  foaming  torrents  with  rocky  beds, 
rushing  down  to  the  river;  and  in  the  evening  made  a  strong  fort  in 
an  aspen  grove.  The  valley  had  already  become  very  narrow,  shut  up 
more  closely  in  densely  timbered  mountains,  the  pines  sweeping 
down  the  verge  of  the  bottoms.  The  coq  de  prairie  itetrao  europhasi- 
anus)  was  occasionally  seen  among  the  sage. 

We  saw  to-day  the  returning  trail  of  an  Arapahoe  party  which  had 
been  sent  from  the  village  to  look  for  Utahs  in  the  Bayou  Salade, 
(South  Park;)  and  it  being  probable  that  they  would  visit  our  camp 
with  the  desire  to  return  on  horseback,  we  were  more  than  usually 
on  the  alert. 

Here  the  river  diminished  to  35  yards,  and,  notwithstanding  the 
number  of  affluents  we  had  crossed,  was  still  a  large  stream,  dashing 
swiftly  by,  with  a  great  continuous  fall,  and  not  yet  fordable.  We  had 
a  delightful  ride  along  a  good  trail  among  the  fragrant  pines;  and 
the  appearance  of  buffalo  in  great  numbers  indicated  that  there  were 
Indians  in  the  Bayou  Salade,  (South  Park,)  by  whom  they  were 
driven  out.  We  halted  to  noon  under  the  shade  of  the  pines,  and  the 
weather  was  most  delightful.  The  country  was  literally  alive  with 
buffalo;  and  the  continued  echo  of  the  hunter's  rifles  on  the  other 


189.  Here,  for  tfie  next  several  days,  JCF  does  not  always  provide  dates. 
Starting  on  the  20th,  he  goes  up  the  Blue  to  Hoosier  Pass,  then  down  the 
valley  of  the  Middle  Fork  of  the  South  Platte — not  the  South  Fork,  as  he 
surmises.  He  has  the  rugged  Mosquito  Range  on  his  right,  and  correctly  as- 
sumes that  beyond  it  to  the  left  lie  the  headwaters  of  the  Arkansas.  He  enters 
the  Arkansas  River  watershed  via  a  rough  country  that  gave  Zebulon  Pike 
trouble  in  the  winter  of  1806-7.  But,  unlike  Pike,  he  avoids  the  treacherous 
Royal  Gorge  of  the  Arkansas,  an  indication  that  he  probably  went  down 
Fourmile  Creek  and  struck  the  Arkansas  well  below  the  gorge.  His  camp  on 
28  June  was  in  the  vicinity  of  Canon  City,  Colo.,  and  he  reached  Pueblo  on 
the  29th. 


715 


side  of  the  river  for  a  moment  made  me  uneasy,  thinking  perhaps 
they  were  engaged  with  Indians ;  but  in  a  short  time  they  came  into 
camp  with  the  meat  of  seven  fat  cows. 

During  the  earher  part  of  the  day's  ride,  the  river  had  been  merely 
a  narrow  ravine  between  high  piney  mountains,  backed  on  both 
sides,  but  particularly  on  the  west,  by  a  line  of  snowy  ridges;  but, 
after  several  hours'  ride,  the  stream  opened  out  into  a  valley  with 
pleasant  bottoms.  In  the  afternoon  the  river  forked  into  three  appar- 
ently equal  streams;  broad  buffalo  trails  leading  up  the  left  hand,  and 
the  middle  branch  indicating  good  passes  over  the  mountains;  but 
up  the  right-hand  branch,  (which,  in  the  object  of  descending  from 
the  mountain  by  the  main  head  of  the  Arkansas,  I  was  most  desirous 
to  follow,)  there  was  no  sign  of  a  buffalo  trace.  Apprehending  from 
this  reason,  and  the  character  of  the  mountains,  which  are  known  to 
be  extremely  rugged,  that  the  right-hand  branch  led  to  no  pass,  I 
proceeded  up  the  middle  branch,  which  formed  a  flat  valley  bottom 
between  timbered  ridges  on  the  left  and  snowy  mountains  on  the 
right,  terminating  in  large  biittes  of  naked  rock.  The  trail  was  good, 
and  the  country  interesting;  and  at  nightfall  we  encamped  in  an 
open  place  among  the  pines,  where  we  built  a  strong  fort.  The 
mountains  exhibit  their  usual  varied  growth  of  flowers,  and  at  this 
place  I  noticed,  among  others,  thermopsis  montana,  whose  bright 
yellow  color  makes  it  a  showy  plant.  This  has  been  a  characteristic 
in  many  parts  of  the  country  since  reaching  the  Uintah  waters.  With 
fields  of  iris  were  aquilegia  ccerulea,  violets,  esparcette,  and  straw- 
berries. 

At  dark,  we  perceived  a  fire  in  the  edge  of  the  pines,  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  valley.  We  had  evidently  not  been  discovered,  and, 
at  the  report  of  a  gun,  and  the  blaze  of  fresh  fuel  which  was  heaped 
on  our  fires,  those  of  the  strangers  were  instantly  extinguished.  In 
the  morning,  they  were  found  to  be  a  party  of  six  trappers,  who  had 
ventured  out  among  the  mountains  after  beaver.  They  informed  us 
that  two  of  the  number  with  which  they  started  had  been  already 
killed  by  the  Indians — one  of  them  but  a  few  days  since — by  the 
Arapahoes  we  had  lately  seen,  who  had  found  him  alone  at  a  camp 
on  this  river,  and  carried  off  his  traps  and  animals.  As  they  were 
desirous  to  join  us,  the  hunters  returned  with  them  to  their  encamp- 
ment, and  we  continued  up  the  valley,  in  which  the  stream  rapidly 
diminished,  breaking  into  small  tributaries — every  hollow  affording 
water.  At  our  noon  halt,  the  hunters  joined  us  with  the  trappers. 

716 


While  preparing  to  start  from  their  encampment  they  found  them- 
selves suddenly  surrounded  by  a  party  of  Arapahoes,  who  informed 
them  that  their  scouts  had  discovered  a  large  Utah  village  in  the 
Bayou  Salade,  (South  Park,)  and  that  a  large  war  party,  consisting 
of  almost  every  man  in  the  village,  except  those  who  were  too  old  to 
go  to  war,  were  going  over  to  attack  them.  The  main  body  had 
ascended  the  left  fork  of  the  river,  which  afforded  a  better  pass  than 
the  branch  we  were  on;  and  this  party  had  followed  our  trail,  in  or- 
der that  we  might  add  our  force  to  theirs.  Carson  informed  them 
that  we  were  too  far  ahead  to  turn  back,  but  would  join  them  in  the 
bayou;  and  the  Indians  went  off  apparently  satisfied.  By  the  tempera- 
ture of  boiling  water,  our  elevation  here  was  10,430  feet;  and  still  the 
pine  forest  continued,  and  grass  was  good. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  continued  our  road — occasionally  through 
open  pines,  with  a  very  gradual  ascent.  We  surprised  a  herd  of  buf- 
falo, enjoying  the  shade  at  a  small  lake  among  the  pines;  and  they 
made  the  dry  branches  crack,  as  they  broke  through  the  woods.  In  a 
ride  of  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  and  having  ascended  perhaps 
800  feet,  we  reached  the  summit  of  the  dividing  ridge,  which  would 
thus  have  an  estimated  height  of  11,200  feet.  Here  the  river  spreads 
itself  into  small  branches  and  springs,  heading  nearly  in  the  summit 
of  the  ridge,  which  is  very  narrow.  Immediately  below  us  was  a 
green  valley,  through  which  ran  a  stream;  and  a  short  distance  op- 
posite rose  snowy  mountains,  whose  summits  were  formed  into  peaks 
of  naked  rock.  We  soon  afterwards  satisfied  ourselves  that  imme- 
diately beyond  these  mountains  was  the  main  branch  of  the  Arkan- 
sas river — most  probably  heading  directly  with  the  little  stream 
below  us,  which  gathered  its  waters  in  the  snowy  mountains  near  by. 
Descriptions  of  the  rugged  character  of  the  mountains  around  the  head 
of  the  Arkansas,  which  their  appearance  amply  justified,  deterred 
me  from  making  any  attempt  to  reach  it,  which  would  have  in- 
volved a  greater  length  of  time  than  now  remained  at  my  disposal. 

In  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  we  descended  from  the  summit  of 
the  Pass  into  the  creek  below,  our  road  having  been  very  much  con- 
trolled and  interrupted  by  the  pines  and  springs  on  the  mountain 
side.  Turning  up  the  stream,  we  encamped  on  a  bottom  of  good 
grass  near  its  head,  which  gathers  its  waters  in  the  dividing  crest  of 
the  Rocky  mountains,  and,  according  to  the  best  information  we 
could  obtain,  separated  only  by  the  rocky  wall  of  the  ridge  from  the 
head  of  the  main  Arkansas  river.  By  the  observations  of  the  evening, 

717 


the  latitude  of  our  encampment  was  39°  20'  24",  and  south  of  which, 
therefore,  is  the  head  of  the  Arkansas  river.  The  stream  on  which  we 
had  encamped  is  the  head  of  either  the  Fontaine-qui-bouit,  a  branch 
of  the  Arkansas,  or  the  remotest  head  of  the  south  fork  of  the  Platte; 
as  which,  you  will  find  it  laid  down  on  the  map.  But  descending  it 
only  through  a  portion  of  its  course,  we  have  not  been  able  to  settle 
this  point  satisfactorily. 

In  the  evening,  a  band  of  buffalo  furnished  a  little  excitement,  by 
charging  through  the  camp. 

On  the  following  day,  we  descended  the  stream  by  an  excellent 
buffalo  trail,  along  the  open  grassy  bottom  of  the  river.  On  our  right, 
the  bayou  was  bordered  by  a  mountainous  range,  crested  with  rocky 
and  naked  peaks;  and  below,  it  had  a  beautiful  park-like  character  of 
pretty  level  prairies,  interspersed  among  low  spurs,  wooded  openly 
with  pine  and  quaking  asp,  contrasting  well  with  the  denser  pines 
which  swept  around  on  the  mountain  sides.  Descending  always  the 
valley  of  the  stream,  towards  noon  we  descried  a  mounted  party 
descending  the  point  of  a  spur,  and,  judging  them  to  be  Arapahoes — 
who,  defeated  or  victorious,  were  equally  dangerous  to  us,  and  with 
whom  a  fight  would  be  inevitable — we  hurried  to  post  ourselves  as 
strongly  as  possible  on  some  willow  islands  in  the  river.  We  had 
scarcely  halted  when  they  arrived,  proving  to  be  a  party  of  Utah 
women,  who  told  us  that  on  the  other  side  of  the  ridge  their  village 
was  fighting  with  the  Arapahoes.  As  soon  as  they  had  given  us  this 
information,  they  filled  the  air  with  cries  and  lamentations,  which 
made  us  understand  that  some  of  their  chiefs  had  been  killed. 

Extending  along  the  river,  directly  ahead  of  us,  was  a  low  piney 
ridge,  leaving  between  it  and  the  stream  a  small  open  bottom,  on 
which  the  Utahs  had  very  injudiciously  placed  their  village,  which, 
according  to  the  women,  numbered  about  300  warriors.  Advancing  in 
the  cover  of  the  pines,  the  Arapahoes,  about  daylight,  charged  into 
the  village,  driving  off  a  great  number  of  their  horses,  and  killing 
four  men;  among  them,  the  principal  chief  of  the  village.  They 
drove  the  horses  perhaps  a  mile  beyond  the  village,  to  the  end  of  a 
hollow,  where  they  had  previously  forted  at  the  edge  of  the  pines. 
Here  the  Utahs  had  instandy  attacked  them  in  turn,  and,  according 
to  the  report  of  the  women,  were  getting  rather  the  best  of  the  day. 
The  women  pressed  us  eagerly  to  join  with  their  people,  and  would 
immediately  have  provided  us  with  the  best  horses  at  the  village;  but 
it  was  not  for  us  to  interfere  in  such  a  conflict.  Neither  party  were 

718 


our  friends,  or  under  our  protection;  and  each  was  ready  to  prey 
upon  us  that  could.  But  we  could  not  help  feeling  an  unusual  excite- 
ment at  being  within  a  few  hunderd  yards  of  a  fight,  in  which  500 
men  were  closely  engaged,  and  hearing  the  sharp  cracks  of  their 
rifles.  We  were  in  a  bad  position,  and  subject  to  be  attacked  in  it. 
Either  party  which  we  might  meet,  victorious  or  defeated,  was  cer- 
tain to  fall  upon  us;  and,  gearing  up  immediately,  we  kept  close 
along  the  pines  of  the  ridge,  having  it  between  us  and  the  village, 
and  keeping  the  scouts  on  the  summit,  to  give  us  notice  of  the  ap- 
proach of  Indians.  As  we  passed  by  the  village,  which  was  imme- 
diately below  us,  horsemen  were  galloping  to  and  fro,  and  groups  of 
people  were  gathered  around  those  who  were  wounded  and  dead, 
and  who  were  being  brought  in  from  the  field.  We  continued  to 
press  on,  and,  crossing  another  fork,  which  came  in  from  the  right, 
after  having  made  fifteen  miles  from  the  village,  fortified  ourselves 
strongly  in  the  pines,  a  short  distance  from  the  river. 

During  the  afternoon.  Pike's  Peak  had  been  plainly  in  view  before 
us,  and,  from  our  encampment,  bore  N.  87°  E.  by  compass.  This  was 
a  familiar  object,  and  it  had  for  us  the  face  of  an  old  friend.  At  its 
foot  were  the  springs,  where  we  had  spent  a  pleasant  day  in  coming 
out.  Near  it  were  the  habitations  of  civilized  men;  and  it  overlooked 
the  broad  smooth  plains,  which  promised  us  an  easy  journey  to  our 
home. 

The  next  day  we  left  the  river,  which  continued  its  course  towards 
Pike's  Peak;  and  taking  a  southeasterly  direction,  in  about  ten  miles 
we  crossed  a  gentle  ridge,  and  issuing  from  the  South  Park,  found 
ourselves  involved  among  the  broken  spurs  of  the  mountains  which 
border  the  great  prairie  plains.  Although  broken  and  extremely  rug- 
ged, the  country  was  very  interesting,  being  well  watered  by  numer- 
ous affluents  to  the  Arkansas  river,  and  covered  with  grass  and  a 
variety  of  trees.  The  streams,  which,  in  the  upper  part  of  their  course, 
ran  through  grassy  and  open  hollows,  after  a  few  miles  all  descended 
into  deep  and  impracticable  cafions,  through  which  they  found  their 
way  to  the  Arkansas  valley.  Here  the  buffalo  trails  we  had  followed 
were  dispersed  among  the  hills,  or  crossed  over  into  the  more  open 
valleys  of  other  streams. 

During  the  day  our  road  was  fatiguing  and  difficult,  reminding  us 
much,  by  its  steep  and  rocky  character,  of  our  travelling  the  year  be- 
fore among  the  Wind  river  mountains;  but  always  at  night  we  found 
some  grassy  bottom,  which  afforded  us  a  pleasant  camp.  In  the  deep 

719 


seclusion  of  these  little  streams,  we  found  always  an  abundant  pas- 
turage, and  a  wild  luxuriance  of  plants  and  trees.  Aspens  and  pines 
were  the  prevailing  timber;  on  the  creeks,  oak"  was  frequent;  but  the 
narrow-leaved  cottonwood,  {populus  angustijolia,)  of  unusually 
large  size,  and  seven  or  eight  feet  in  circumference,  was  the  princi- 
pal tree.  With  these  were  mingled  a  variety  of  shrubby  trees,  which 
aided  to  make  the  ravines  almost  impenetrable. 

After  several  days'  laborious  travelling,  we  succeeded  in  extricating 
ourselves  from  the  mountains,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  28th  en- 
camped immediately  at  their  foot,  on  a  handsome  tributary  to  the 
Arkansas  river.  In  the  afternoon  we  descended  the  stream,  winding 
our  way  along  the  bottoms,  which  were  densely  wooded  with  oak, 
and  in  the  evening  encamped  near  the  main  river.  Continuing  the 
next  day  our  road  along  the  Arkansas,  and  meeting  on  the  way  a 
war  party  of  Arapahoe  Indians,  (who  had  recently  been  committing 
some  outrages  at  Bent's  fort,  killing  stock  and  driving  off  horses,) 
we  arrived  before  sunset  at  the  Pueblo,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Fon- 
taine-qui-bouit  river,  where  we  had  the  pleasure  to  find  a  number 
of  our  old  acquaintances.  The  little  settlement  appeared  in  a  thriving 
condition;  and  in  the  interval  of  our  absence  another  [Hardscrabble] 
had  been  established  on  the  river,  some  thirty  miles  above. 

]u7ie  30. — Our  cavalcade  moved  rapidly  down  the  Arkansas,  along 
the  broad  road  which  follows  the  river,  and  on  the  1st  of  July  we  ar- 
rived at  Bent's  fort,  about  70  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Fontaine- 
qui-bouit.  As  we  emerged  into  view  from  the  groves  on  the  river,  we 
were  saluted  with  a  display  of  the  national  flag  and  repeated  dis- 
charges from  the  guns  of  the  fort,  where  we  were  received  by  Mr. 
George  Bent^^°  with  a  cordial  welcome  and  a  friendly  hospitality,  in 
the  enjoyment  of  which  we  spent  several  very  agreeable  days.  We  were 
now  in  the  region  where  our  mountaineers  were  accustomed  to  live; 
and  all  the  dangers  and  difficulties  of  the  road  being  considered  past, 
four  of  them,  including  Carson  and  Walker,  remained  at  the  fort. 


191 


190.  George  Bent  (1814-47),  brother  of  the  better  known  Charles  and  Wil- 
liam Bent,  was  really  the  builder  of  Fort  St.  Vrain  on  the  South  Platte,  and 
for  a  time  it  was  called  Fort  George  in  his  honor.  In  April  1844,  George 
was  left  in  charge  of  Bent's  Fort  by  William,  who  went  back  to  St.  Louis  and 
stayed  several  months  (carter  [1]). 

191.  The  other  two  were  Charles  Town,  who  was  actually  discharged  at 
"The  Pueblo,"  and  Louis  Anderson,  who  had  been  traveling  with  Walker. 
Cowie  and  Walker  had  both  been  members  of  the  Chiles-Walker  emigrant 
party  to  California  in  1843,  and  Anderson's  rate  of  pay,  $2.50  per  day  (which 

720 


On  the  5th  we  resumed  our  journey  down  the  Arkansas,  travelling 
along  a  broad  wagon  road,  and  encamped  about  twenty  miles  below 
the  fort.  On  the  way  we  met  a  very  large  village  of  Sioux  and 
Cheyenne  Indians,  who,  with  the  Arapahoes,  were  returning  from 
the  crossing  of  the  Arkansas,  where  they  had  been  to  meet  the  Kio- 
way  and  Camanche  Indians.  A  few  days  previous  they  had  mas- 
sacred a  party  of  fifteen  Delawares,  whom  they  had  discovered  in  a 
fort  on  the  Smoky  Hill  river,  losing  in  the  affair  several  of  their  own 
people.  They  were  desirous  that  we  should  bear  a  pacific  message  to 
the  Delawares  on  the  frontier,  from  whom  they  expected  retaliation; 
and  we  passed  through  them  without  any  difficulty  or  delay.  Dis- 
persed over  the  plain  in  scattered  bodies  of  horsemen,  and  family 
groups  of  women  and  children,  with  dog  trains  carrying  baggage, 
and  long  lines  of  pack  horses,  their  appearance  was  picturesque  and 
imposing. 

Agreeably  to  your  instructions,  which  required  me  to  complete,  as 
far  as  practicable,  our  examinations  of  the  Kansas,  I  left  at  this  en- 
campment the  Arkansas  river,  taking  a  northeasterly  direction  across 
the  elevated  dividing  grounds  which  separate  that  river  from  the 
waters  of  the  Platte.  On  the  7th  we  crossed  a  large  stream,  about 
forty  yards  wide,  and  one  or  two  feet  deep,  flowing  with  a  lively 
current  on  a  sandy  bed.  The  discolored  and  muddy  appearance  of  the 
water  indicated  that  it  proceeded  from  recent  rains;  and  we  are  in- 
clined to  consider  this  a  branch  of  the  Smoky  Hill  river,  although, 
possibly,  it  may  be  the  Pawnee  fork  of  the  Arkansas.  Beyond  this 
stream  we  travelled  over  high  and  level  prairies,  halting  at  small 
ponds  and  holes  of  water,  and  using  for  our  fires  the  bois  de  vache, 
the  country  being  without  timber.  On  the  evening  of  the  8th  we  en- 
camped in  a  Cottonwood  grove  on  the  banks  of  a  sandy  stream  bed, 
where  there  was  water  in  holes  sufficient  for  the  camp.  Here  several 
hollows,  or  dry  creeks  with  sandy  beds,  met  together,  forming  the 
head  of  a  stream  which  afterwards  proved  to  be  the  Smoky  Hill 
fork  of  the  Kansas  river. 

The  next  morning,  as  we  were  leaving  our  encampment,  a  num- 
ber of  Arapahoe  Indians  were  discovered.  They  belonged  to  a  war 


was  also  the  rate  for  Walker),  indicates  he  was  no  ordinary  voyageur.  JCF 
allowed  both  Anderson  and  Walker  an  additional  twenty  days  to  return  to  the 
"Snake  District"  (DNA-217,  T-135,  voucher  nos.  122  and   123,  5  July  1844; 

PIONEER  register). 


721 


party  which  had  scattered  over  the  prairie  in  returning  from  an  ex- 
pedition against  the  Pawnees. 

As  we  travelled  down  the  valley,  water  gathered  rapidly  in  the 
sandy  bed  from  many  litde  tributaries;  and  at  evening  it  had  become 
a  handsome  stream,  fifty  to  eighty  feet  in  width,  with  a  lively  cur- 
rent in  small  channels,  the  water  being  principally  dispersed  among 
quicksands. 

Gradually  enlarging,  in  a  few  days'  march  it  became  a  river  eighty 
yards  in  breadth,  wooded  with  occasional  groves  of  cottonwood.  Our 
road  was  generally  over  level  uplands  bordering  the  river,  which 
were  closely  covered  with  a  sward  of  buffalo  grass. 

On  the  10th  we  entered  again  the  buffalo  range,  where  we  had 
found  these  animals  so  abundant  on  our  outward  journey,  and  halted 
for  a  day  among  numerous  herds,  in  order  to  make  a  provision  of 
meat  sufficient  to  carry  us  to  the  frontier. 

A  few  days  afterwards,  we  encamped,  in  a  pleasant  evening,  on  a 
high  river  prairie,  the  stream  being  less  than  a  hundred  yards  broad. 
During  the  night  we  had  a  succession  of  thunder  storms,  with  heavy 
and  continuous  rain,  and  towards  morning  the  water  suddenly  burst 
over  the  banks,  flooding  the  bottoms,  and  becoming  a  large  river, 
five  or  six  hundred  yards  in  breadth.  The  darkness  of  the  night  and 
incessant  rain  had  concealed  from  the  guard  the  rise  of  the  water; 
and  the  river  broke  into  the  camp  so  suddenly,  that  the  baggage  was 
instandy  covered,  and  all  our  perishable  collections  almost  entirely 
ruined,  and  the  hard  labor  of  many  months  destroyed  in  a  moment. 

On  the  17th  we  discovered  a  large  village  of  Indians  encamped  at 
the  mouth  of  a  handsomely  wooded  stream  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
river.^^^  Readily  inferring,  from  the  nature  of  the  encampment,  that 
they  were  Pawnee  Indians,  and  confidently  expecting  good  treat- 
ment from  a  people  who  receive  regularly  an  annuity  from  the 
Government,  we  proceeded  directly  to  the  village,  where  we  found 
assembled  nearly  all  the  Pawnee  tribe,  who  were  now  returning  from 
the  crossing  of  the  Arkansas,  where  they  had  met  the  Kioway  and 
Camanche  Indians.  We  were  received  by  them  with  the  unfriendly 
rudeness  and  characteristic  insolence  which  they  never  fail  to  dis- 
play whenever  they  find  an  occasion  for  doing  so  with  impunity. 
The  little  that  remained  of  our  goods  was  distributed  among  them. 


192.  The  Indians  were  encamped  at  Big  Timber  Creek,  which  enters  the 
Smoky  Hill  River  near  the  present  Ellis-Rush  County  line  in  Kansas. 

722 


but  proved  entirely  insufficient  to  satisfy  their  greedy  rapacity;  and, 
after  some  delay,  and  considerable  difficulty,  we  -succeeded  in  extri- 
cating ourselves  from  the  village,  and  encamped  on  the  river  about 
fifteen  miles  below.* 

The  country  through  which  we  had  been  travelling  since  leaving 
the  Arkansas  river,  for  a  distance  of  260  miles,  presented  to  the  eye 
only  a  succession  of  far-stretching  green  prairies,  covered  with  the 
unbroken  verdure  of  the  buffalo  grass,  and  sparingly  wooded  along 
the  streams  with  straggling  trees  and  occasional  groves  of  cotton- 
wood;  but  here  the  country  began  perceptibly  to  change  its  char- 
acter, becoming  a  more  fertile,  wooded  and  beautiful  region,  covered 
with  a  profusion  of  grasses,  and  watered  with  innumerable  little 
streams,  which  were  wooded  with  oak,  large  elms,  and  the  usual 
varieties  of  timber  common  to  the  lower  course  of  the  Kansas  river. 

As  we  advanced,  the  country  steadily  improved,  gradually  assimi- 
lating itself  in  appearance  to  the  northwestern  part  of  the  State  of 
Missouri.  The  beautiful  sward  of  the  buffalo  grass,  which  is  regarded 
as  the  best  and  most  nutritious  found  on  the  prairies,  appeared  now 
only  in  patches,  being  replaced  by  a  longer  and  coarser  grass,  which 
covered  the  face  of  the  country  luxuriantly.  The  difference  in  the 
character  of  the  grasses  became  suddenly  evident  in  the  weakened 
condition  of  our  animals,  which  began  sensibly  to  fail  as  soon  as  we 
quitted  the  buffalo  grass. 

The  river  preserved  a  uniform  breadth  of  eighty  or  a  hundred 
yards,  with  broad  bottoms  continuously  timbered  with  large  cotton- 
wood  trees,  among  which  were  interspersed  a  few  other  varieties. 

While  engaged  in  crossing  one  of  the  numerous  creeks  which  fre- 
quently impeded  and  checked  our  way,  sometimes  obliging  us  to 
ascend  them  for  several  miles,  one  of  the  people  (Alexis  Ayot)  was 
shot  through  the  leg  by  the  accidental  discharge  of  a  rifle — a  mortify- 
ing and  painful  mischance,  to  be  crippled  for  life  by  an  accident, 
after  having  nearly  accomplished  in  safety  a  long  and  eventful  jour- 
ney. He  was  a  young  man  of  remarkably  good  and  cheerful  temper, 
and  had  been  among  the  useful  and  efficient  men  of  the  party. 

After  having  travelled  directly  along  its  banks  for  two  hundred 

*  In  a  recent  report  to  the  department,  from  Major  [Clifton]  Wharton,  who 
visited  the  Pawnee  villages  with  a  military  force  some  months  afterwards,  it  is 
stated  that  the  Indians  had  intended  to  attack  our  party  during  the  night  we 
remained  at  this  encampment,  but  were  prevented  by  the  interposition  of  the 
Pawnee  Loups. 


and  ninety  miles,  we  left  the  river,  where  it  bore  suddenly  oflF  in  a 
northwesterly  direction,  towards  its  junction  with  the  Republican 
fork  of  the  Kansas,  distant  about  sixty  miles;  and,  continuing  our 
easterly  course,  in  about  twenty  miles  we  entered  the  wagon  road 
from  Santa  Fe  to  Independence,  and  on  the  last  day  of  July  en- 
camped again  at  the  little  town  of  Kansas,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Missouri  river. 

During  our  protracted  absence  of  fourteen  months,  in  the  course  of 
which  we  had  necessarily  been  exposed  to  great  varieties  of  weather 
and  of  climate,  no  one  case  of  sickness  had  ever  occurred  among  us. 

Here  ended  our  land  journey;  and  the  day  following  our  arrival, 
we  found  ourselves  on  board  a  steamboat  rapidly  gliding  down  the 
broad  Missouri.  Our  travel-worn  animals  had  not  been  sold  and  dis- 
persed over  the  country  to  renewed  labor,  but  were  placed  at  good 
pasturage  on  the  frontier,  and  are  now  ready  to  do  their  part  in  the 
coming  expedition. 

On  the  6th  of  August  we  arrived  at  St.  Louis,  where  the  party  was 
finally  disbanded;  a  great  number  of  the  men  having  their  homes  in 
the  neighborhood. 

Andreas  Fuentes  also  remained  here,  having  readily  found  em- 
ployment for  the  winter,  and  is  one  of  the  men  engaged  to  ac- 
company me  the  present  year.^^^ 

Pablo  Hernandez  remains  in  the  family  of  Senator  Benton,  where 
he  is  well  taken  care  of,  and  conciliates  good  will  by  his  docility,  in- 
telligence, and  amiability. ^^^  General  Almonte,  the  Mexican  minister 
at  Washington,  to  whom  he  was  of  course  made  known,  kindly 
offered  to  take  charge  of  him,  and  to  carry  him  back  to  Mexico;  but 
the  boy  preferred  to  remain  where  he  was  until  he  got  an  education, 
for  which  he  shows  equal  ardor  and  aptitude. 


193.  JCF  paid  Fuentes  for  services  as  a  voyageur  from  the  time  he  was 
picked  up  on  the  trail  [1  May]  to  6  Sept.  1844.  See  Doc.  No.  95. 

194.  In  his  memoirs,  409,  JCF  noted  that  this  early  promise  of  Hernandez 
was  misleading,  and  that  he  was  led  into  wrong  courses  and  away  from  his 
friends.  For  a  time  he  was  in  Mexico,  but  "after  some  years  the  report  came 
to  us,"  Fremont  wrote,  "that  he  was  the  Joaquin  who  for  some  years  was  so 
well  known  as  a  robber  chief  in  the  San  Joaquin  Valley  and  the  mountain 
country.  Whether  or  not  this  was  so,  it  was  the  last  that  I  heard  of  Pablo."  If 
Fremont  means  to  suggest  that  Pablo  Hernandez  was  the  shadowy  bandit 
Joaquin  Murrieta,  who  became  the  folk  hero  of  John  Rollins  Ridge's  sensa- 
tional and  mythical  tale,  he  is  almost  certainly  in  error  (see  J.  H.  Jackson's 
introduction  to  ridge). 

724 


Our  Chinook  Indian  had  his  wish  to  see  the  whites  fully  gratified. 
He  accompanied  me  to  Washington,  and,  after  remaining  several 
months  at  the  Columbia  college,  was  sent  by  the  Indian  department 
to  Philadelphia,  where,  among  other  things,  he  learned  to  read  and 
write  well,  and  speak  the  English  language  with  some  fluency. 

He  will  accompany  me  in  a  few  days  to  the  frontier  of  Missouri, 
whence  he  will  be  sent  with  some  one  of  the  emigrant  companies  to 
the  village  at  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  C.  Fremont, 
Bt.  Capt.  Topi.  Etigineers. 


725 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES 


A  Loire 


THE  ROAD  TRAVELLED  BY  THE  EXPEDITION  IN   1843  AND  1844. 


OUTWARD  JOURNEY. 


From  Kansas  Landing  to  Fort  Vancouver. 


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.is   V 

Q    as 

1343. 

Miles. 

Miles. 

1843. 

Miles. 

Miles. 

May    29 

7 

7 

July    29 

6 

807 

30 

22 

29 

30 

24 

831 

31 

26 

55 

31 

30 

861 

June     1 

23 

78 

Aug.     1 

26 

887 

2 

22 

100 

2 

31 

918 

Medicine  Bow  river. 

3 

23 

123 

3 

26 

944 

4 

18 

141 

4 

18 

962 

North  fork. 

5 

19 

160 

6 

19 

981 

6 

14 

174 

7 

30 

1,011 

7 

8 

182 

8 

29 

1,040 

8 

5 

187 

Junction    of  Smoky 

9 

26 

1,066 

Sweet  Water. 

Hill    and    Repub- 

10 

23 

1,089 

lican  forks. 

11 

29 

1,118 

10 

1 

188 

12 

25 

1,143 

11 

24 

212 

13 

u 

1,152 

South  Pass. 

12 

28 

240 

1,167 

13 

18 

258 

14 

25 

1,192 

14 

17 

275 

15 

29 

1,221 

Green  river,   or   Rio 

16 

21 

296 

Colorado. 

17 

14 

310 

16 

26 

1,247 

18 

23 

333 

17 

21 

1,268 

19 

18 

351 

18 

32 

1,300 

20 

26 

377 

19 

28 

1,328 

21 

27 

404 

20 

30 

1,358 

22 

26 

430 

21 

26 

1,384 

23 

26 

456 

22 

37 

1,421 

24 

34 

490 

23 

12 

1,433 

25 

26 

516 

Crossing  of  the  Re- 

24 

22 

1,455 

publican. 

25 

8 

1,463 

Beer  Springs. 

26 

24 

540 

26 

21 

1,484 

27 

27 

567 

27 

21 

1,505 

28 

30 

597 

28 

27 

1,532 

29 

21 

618 

29 

17 

1,549 

30 

26 

644 

South  fork. 

30 

19 

1,568 

July      1 

32 

676 

31 

26 

1,594 

2 

29 

706 

Sept.   'l 

22 

1,616 

3 

28 

733 

2 

17 

1,633 

4 

18 

751 

St.  Train's  fort. 

3 

3 

1,636 

Mouth  of  Bear  river. 

26 

4 

755 

4 

6 

1,64« 

27 

26 

781 

5 

27 

1,669 

28 

SO 

801 

e 

I     25 

1,694 

Table  of  distances — Continued. 


1 

o  5 

"  i: 

i.s 

Date. 

2-S 
§1 

4:  ^3 

Localities. 

Date. 

2-3 

si 

Localities, 

II 

.11 
Q    at 

1843. 

M/es. 

Miles. 

1843. 

Miles. 

Miles. 

Sept.     8 

30 

1,714 

Shore   of   the  Salt 

Oct.     9 

24 

2,254 

A 

lake. 

10 

2 

2,256 

Fort  Boiee. 

9 

8 

1,722 

Island   in   the   Salt 

11 

20 

2,276 

lake. 

12 

27 

2,303 

10 

28 

1,750 

13 

20 

2,323 

12 

13 

1,763 

14 

22 

2,345 

13 

27 

1,790 

15 

26 

2,371 

14 

24 

1,814 

16 

13 

2,384 

15 

19 

1,833 

17 

21 

2,405 

16 

26 

1,859 

18 

20 

2,425 

17 

24 

1,883 

19 

21 

2,446 

18 

23 

1,906 

Fort  Hall. 

20 

12 

2,458 

22 

12 

1,918 

21 

5 

2,463 

24 

10 

1,928 

American    fallf    on 

22 

16 

2,479 

Lewis's  fork. 

24 

18 

2,497 

25 

13 

1,941 

25 

18 

2,515 

26 

17 

1,958 

26 

3 

2,518 

Fort  Nez  Perce,   at 

27 

20 

1,978 

the  mouth  of  Wa- 

28 

25 

2,003 

lahwalah  river. 

29 

24 

2,027 

28 

19 

2,537 

30 

26 

2,053 

29 

19 

2,556 

Oct.      1 

16 

2,069 

30 

21 

2,577 

2 

29 

2,098 

31 

26 

2,603 

3 

16 

2,114 

Nov.     1 

23 

2,626 

4 

19 

2,133 

2 

19 

2,645 

5 

26 

2,159 

3 

17 

2,662 

6 

22 

2,181 

4 

14 

2,676 

Dallea. 

7 

23 

2,204 

6  «&7 

90 

2,766 

Fort  Vancouver. 

8 

26 

2,230 

HOMEWARD    JOURNEY. 


From  the  Dalles  to  the  Missouri  river. 


ravel- 
day. 

S 

ravel - 

day. 

S 
^5 

Date. 

Localities. 

Date. 

si 
1-2 

|P 

Localities. 

Q~ 

q" 

«-" 

Q 

1843. 

Miles. 

Miles. 

1843. 

Miles. 

Miles. 

Nov.  25 

12 

12 

Dec.     4 

9 

147 

26 

22 

34 

5 

11 

158 

27 

13 

47 

6 

19 

177 

28 

21 

68 

7 

25 

202 

29 

21 

89 

8 

19 

221 

30 

10 

99 

9 

14 

235 

Dec.      1 

6 

105 

10 

15 

250 

Tlamath  taiw. 

2 

11 

116 

1              12 

5 

255 

3 

22 

138 

{ 

1             13 

12 

267 

Table  of  distances — Continued. 


1 

travel- 
day. 

a  . 

^5 

Date. 

8l 

ifi 

Localities. 

Date. 

ll 

Localities. 

1^ 

1 « 

5^ 

03      g^ 

1843. 

Miles. 

Miles. 

1844. 

Miles. 

Miles. 

Dec.    14 

21 

288 

Feb.  20 

3 

1,001 

Summit  of  the  Sierra 

15 

21 

309 

Nevada. 

16 

9 

318 

Summer  lake. 

21 

5 

1,006 

17 

6 

324 

22 

3 

1,009 

18 

20 

344 

23 

5 

1,014 

19 

21 

385 

U 

12 

1,026 

20 

26 

391 

Lake  Abert. 

25 

14 

1,040 

21 

6 

39V 

26 

14 

1,054 

22 

29 

426 

27 

1 

1,055 

23 

7 

433 

28 

10 

1,065 

24 

13 

446 

Christmas  lake. 

March  1 

6 

1,071 

25 

14 

460 

2  &3 

10 

1,081 

26 

21 

481 

4 

7 

1,088 

27 

24 

505 

5 

20 

1,108 

28 

16 

521 

6 

34 

1,142 

Nueva  Helvetia. 

29 

15 

536 

24 

16 

1,158 

30 

17 

5.')3 

25 

18 

1,176 

31 

IS 

571 

26 
27 

21 
42 

1,197 
1,239 

1844. 

28 

17 

1,256 

Jan.      1 

20 

591 

29 

8 

1,264 

2 

25 

616 

April    1 

10 

1,274 

3 

7 

623 

3 

22 

1,296 

4 

7 

630 

4 

18 

i;3l4 

5 

2 

632 

5 

37 

1,351 

6 

15 

647 

Gieat  Boiling  spring. 

6 

15 

1,366 

9 

11 

658 

7 

50 

1,416 

10 

10 

668 

8 

6 

1,422 

11 

10 

678 

9 

31 

1,453 

12 

6 

684 

Pyramid  lake^ 

10 

40 

1,493 

13 

12 

696 

11 

24 

1,517 

14 

9 

706 

12 

15 

1,532 

15 

12 

717 

13 

27 

1,559 

Pass    in   the  Sierra 

16 

18 

735 

Nevada. 

17 

22 

757 

14 

32 

1,591 

18 

8 

765 

15 

32 

1,623 

19 

18 

783 

17 

39 

1,662 

20 

5 

788 

18 

3 

1,665 

21 

24 

812 

19 

15 

1,680 

22 

14 

826 

20 

33 

1,713 

Spanish  trail  at  Mo- 

23 

25 

851 

hahve  river. 

24 

20 

871 

22 

20 

1,733 

25 

25 

896 

23 

33 

1,766 

27 

12 

908 

24 

8 

1,774 

28 

12 

920 

25 

25 

1,799 

29 

7 

927 

27 

43 

1,842 

30 

11 

938 

28 

12 

1,854 

31 

26 

964 

29 

7 

1,861 

Feb.      2 

16 

980 

30 

24 

1,885 

3 

7 

987 

May     1 

15 

1,900 

4 

3 

990 

2 

12 

1,912 

7 

4 

994 

3 

18 

1,930 

8 

1 

995 

4 

57 

1,987 

10 

3 

998 

6 

18 

2,005 

Rio  Viigen. 

Table  of  distances — Continued. 


travel- 
day. 

a 

travel- 
day. 

Date. 

Distance 
led  each 

II 

Localities. 

Date. 

11 

-2  S 

.2  ■» 

Localitie*. 

1844. 

Miles. 

Miles. 

1844. 

Miles. 

Miles. 

May      7 

10 

2,015 

June  21 

19 

2,898 

8 

18 

2,033 

22 

15 

2,913 

Bayou  Salade,  (South 

9 

1 

2,034 

Park.) 

10 

24 

2,058 

23 

36 

2,949 

U 

12 

2,070 

24 

21 

2,970 

12 

14 

2,084 

Vegas  de  Santa  Clara. 

25 

21 

2,991 

13 

15 

2,099 

26 

11 

3,002 

15 

21 

2,120 

27 

10 

3,012 

16 

17 

2,137 

28 

21 

3,033 

17 

17 

2,154 

29 

30 

3,063 

Pueblo,    on  the   Ar- 

19 

27 

2J81 

kansas. 

20 

22 

2,203 

30 

37 

3,100 

21 

31 

2,234 

July      1 

33 

3,133 

Bent's  fort. 

22 

23 

2,257 

5 

20 

3,153 

23 

12 

2,269 

Sevier  river. 

6 

31 

3,184 

24 

23 

2,292 

7 

31 

3,215 

25 

32 

2,324 

8 

28 

3,243 

Head  water  of  Smoky 

26 

9 

2,333 

Utah  lake. 

Hill    fork     of    the 

27 

22 

2,355 

Kansas. 

28 

25 

2,380 

9 

27 

3,270 

29 

25 

2,405 

10 

28 

3,298 

30 

31 

2,436 

12 

24 

3,322 

31 

16 

2,4.52 

13 

30 

3,352 

June     1 

16 

2,468 

15 

10 

3,362 

2 

8 

2,476 

16 

23 

3,385 

3 

21 

2,497 

Uintah  fort. 

17 

32 

3,417 

5 

26 

2,523 

18 

24 

3,441 

6 

15 

2,538 

19 

29 

3,470 

7 

30 

2,568 

Green  river,  (Brown's 

20 

29 

3,499 

hole.) 

21 

23 

3,522 

9 

36 

2,604 

22 

17 

3,539 

10 

30 

2,634 

23 

26 

3,565 

11 

30 

2,664 

24 

22 

3,587 

12 

26 

2,690 

25 

19 

3,606 

13 

26 

2,716 

26 

24 

3,630 

14 

23 

2,739 

27 

18 

3,648 

15 

25 

2,764 

New  Park. 

28 

22 

3,670 

16 

26 

2,790 

29 

12 

3,682 

17 

33 

2,823 

Old  Park. 

30 

12 

3,694 

18 

13 

2,836 

31 

8 

3,702 

Kansas  landing 

\9 

16 

2,852 

Aug.     1 

7 

3,709 

Missouri  river. 

20 

27 

2,879 

APPENDIX. 
A. 

Geological  Formations 

Nature  of  the  geological  formations  occupying  the  portion  of  Ore- 
gon and  North  California,  included  in  a  geographical  survey  under 
the  direction  of  Captain  Fremont:  by  fames  Hall,  palceontologist 
to  the  State  of  New  Yorf{. 

The  main  geographical  features  of  every  country,  as  well  as  its 
soils  and  vegetable  productions,  depend  upon  the  nature  of  its  geo- 
logical formations.  So  universally  true  is  this,  that  a  suite  of  the  rocks 
prevailing  in  any  country,  with  their  mineral  and  fossil  contents, 
will  convey  more  absolute  information  regarding  the  agricultural 
and  other  capabilities  of  that  country,  than  could  be  given  by  a  vol- 
ume written  without  reference  to  these  subjects.  Indeed,  no  survey 
of  any  unknown  region  should  be  made,  without  at  the  same  time 
preserving  collections  of  the  prevailing  rocks,  minerals,  and  fossils. 
The  attention  given  to  this  subject  in  the  foregoing  report  renders 
the  information  of  the  highest  value,  and  perfectly  reliable  in  ref- 
erence to  opinions  or  calculations  regarding  the  resources  of  the 
country. 

The  specimens  examined  present  a  great  variety  of  aspect  and 
composition;  but  calcareous  rocks  prevail  over  a  large  portion  of 
the  country  traversed  between  longitude  98°  and  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  river,  or  122°  west  from  Greenwich.  That  portion  of  the 
route  embraced  in  this  notice,  varies  in  latitude  through  seven  de- 
grees, viz:  38°  to  45°  north;  and  specimens  are  presented  in  nearly 
every  half  degree  of  latitude.  Such  a  collection  enables  us  to  form  a 
very  satisfactory  conclusion  regarding  this  portion  of  the  country  7 
in  width  and  24°  in  length;  having  an  extent  east  and  west  equal 
to  the  distance  between  the  Atlantic  coast  of  New  York  and  the 
Mississippi  river,  and  lying  in  the  temperate  latitudes  which  extend 
from  Washington  city  to  the  northern  limit  of  the  State  of  New 
York. 

Although  we  are  far  from  being  able  to  fix  the  minute  or  detailed 
geology,  this  collection  presents  us  with  sufficient  materials  to  form 
some  probable  conclusions  regarding  the  whole  region  from  this 
side  of  the  Rocky  mountains  westward  to  the  mouth  of  the  Colum- 
bia river.  But  it  is  not  within  my  province  to  dwell  upon  the  advan- 

730 


tages  opened  to  us  in  the  vast  field  which  the  researches  of  Captain 
Fremont  have  made  known.  I  therefore  proceed  to  a  description  of 
the  specimens  as  they  occur,  taking  them  in  the  order  from  east  to 
west.  This,  in  connexion  with  the  section  of  altitudes  on  which  the 
rocks  are  marked,  will  show  the  comparative  extent  of  different 
formations. 

Longitude  96^°,  latitude  38|° ;  Otter  cree\.—^\vt  single  specimen 
from  this  locality  is  a  yellowish,  impure  limestone,  apparently  con- 
taining organic  remains,  whose  structure  is  obliterated  by  crystalliza- 
tion. From  its  position  relatively  to  the  formations  farther  east,  I  am 
inclined  to  refer  it  to  the  cretaceous  formation. 

Longitude  98°,  latitude  39°;  Smoky  Hill  river. — The  specimens 
from  this  locality  are  numbered  26,  29,  31,  33,  and  88.  They  all  bear 
a  similar  character,  and  the  fossils  are  alike  in  each.  The  rock  is  an 
impure  limestone,  pretty  compact,  varying  in  color  from  dull  yellow- 
ish to  ashy  brown,  and  abounding  in  shells  of  a  species  of  Inocera- 
mus.  (See  description.) 

This  rock  probably  belongs  to  the  cretaceous  formation ;  the  lower 
part  of  which  has  been  indicated  by  Dr.  Morton  as  extending  into 
Louisiana,  Arkansas,  and  Missouri. 

Although  the  specimens  from  this  locality  bear  a  more  close  re- 
semblance to  the  upper  part  of  the  formation,  I  do  not  feel  justified 
in  referring  them  to  any  other  period.  This  formation  evidently 
underlies  large  tracts  of  country,  and  extends  far  towards  the  base  of 
the  Rocky  mountains. 

Longitude  105°,  latitude  39°. — The  specimens  from  this  locality 
are  a  somewhat  porous,  light-colored  limestone,  tough  and  fine 
grained.  One  or  two  fragments  of  fossils  from  this  locality  still  indi- 
cate the  cretaceous  period;  but  the  absence  of  any  perfect  specimens 
must  deter  a  positive  opinion  upon  the  precise  age  of  the  formation. 
One  specimen,  however,  from  its  form,  markings,  and  fibrous  struc- 
ture, I  have  referred  to  the  genus  inoceramus. 

It  is  evident,  from  the  facts  presented,  that  litde  of  important 
geological  change  is  observed  in  travelling  over  this  distance  of  7 
degrees  of  longitude.  But  at  what  depths  beneath  the  surface  the 
country  is  underlaid  by  this  formation,  I  have  no  data  for  deciding. 
Its  importance,  however,  must  not  be  overlooked.  A  calcareous  for- 
mation of  this  extent  is  of  the  greatest  advantage  to  a  country;  and 
the  economical  facilities  hence  afforded  in  agriculture,  and  the  uses 
of  civilized  life,  cannot  be  overstated. 

731 


The  whole  formation  of  this  region  is  probably,  with  some  varia- 
tions, an  extension  of  that  which  prevails  through  Louisiana,  Ar- 
kansas, and  Missouri. 

The  strata  at  the  locality  last  mentioned  are  represented  as  being 
vertical,  standing  against  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Rocky  mountains, 
immediately  below  Pike's  Peak. 

Longitude  106°,  latitude  41°.— At  this  point,  although  only  one 
degree  west  of  the  last-named  specimens,  we  find  a  total  change  in 
the  geology  of  the  region.  The  specimens  are  of  a  red  feldspathic 
granite,  showing  a  tendency  to  decomposition;  and,  from  the  in- 
formation accompanying  the  same,  this  rock  overlies  a  mass  of  similar 
granite,  in  more  advanced  stages  of  decomposition.  The  specimens 
present  nothing  peculiar  in  their  appearance ;  and  the  only  apparent 
difference  between  these  and  the  ordinary  red  feldspathic  granites  of 
more  eastern  localities,  is  their  finer  grain  and  dingy  color. 

Longitude  107°,  latitude  4H°.— The  specimens  from  this  locality 
are  of  crystalline  feldspathic  granite,  of  a  flesh-red  color,  apparently 
not  acted  on  by  the  weather,  and  presenting  the  common  appearance 
of  this  kind  of  granite  in  other  localities. 

No.  95,  "above  the  third  bed  of  coal,  in  the  lower  hill,  North  fork 
of  the  Platte  river,"  is  a  siliceous  clay  slate,  having  a  saline  taste. 

Longitude  110°,  latitude  41^°;  Nos.  99  and  104.— No.  99  is  a  fine- 
grained, soft,  argillaceous  limestone,  of  a  light  ash  color,  evidently 
a  modern  formation ;  but,  from  the  absence  of  fossils,  it  would  be  un- 
satisfactory to  assign  it  any  place  in  the  scale  of  formations.  The 
other  specimen.  No.  104,  is  a  compact  serpentine,  having  the  aspect 
of  a  greenstone  trap ;  and,  from  the  account  given,  is  probably  inter- 
stratified  with  the  limestone.  The  limestone  is  more  friable  and 
chalky  than  any  specimen  previously  noticed. 

Longitude  110^°,  latitude  4U°.— The  specimens  from  this  locality 
are  very  peculiar  and  remarkable.  The  first  is  a  friable  or  pulverulent 
green  calcareous  sand,  unctuous  to  the  touch,  but  remaining  un- 
altered on  exposure  to  the  atmosphere.  Its  character  is  very  similar 
to  the  green  sands  of  New  Jersey;  but  it  is  of  a  brighter  color,  and 
less  charged  with  iron.  The  second  specimen  is  of  similar  composi- 
tion, but  quite  solid — being,  in  fact,  a  green  limestone.  The  singular- 
ity of  the  specimen,  and  that  which  first  attracted  my  attention,  was 
the  efflorescence  of  a  salt  upon  its  surface,  which  appears  to  be,  in 
part,  chloride  of  sodium.  Supposing  this  to  be  accidental,  I  broke  a 
specimen,  and,  after  a  day  or  two,  a  similar  efflorescence  appeared 

732 


from  the  fresh  fracture;  leaving  no  doubt  but  the  salt  arise  from 
decomposition  of  substances  within  the  stone  itself. 

Longitude  111°,  latitude  41^° ;  Muddy  nV^r.— These  specimens  are 
of  a  yellowish-gray  oolitic  limestone,  containing  turbo,  cerithium, 
&c.  The  rock  is  a  perfect  oolite ;  and,  both  in  color  and  texture,  can 
scarcely  be  distinguished  from  specimens  of  the  Bath  oolite.  One  of 
the  specimens  is  quite  crystalline,  and  the  oolitic  structure  somewhat 
obscure.  In  this  instance,  the  few  fossils  observed  seem  hardly  suf- 
ficient to  draw  a  decisive  conclusion  regarding  the  age  of  the  forma- 
tion ;  but,  when  taken  in  connexion  with  the  oolitic  structure  of  the 
mass,  its  correspondence  with  the  English  oolites,  and  the  modern 
aspect  of  the  whole,  there  remains  less  doubt  of  the  propriety  of  re- 
ferring it  to  the  oolitic  period.  A  further  collection  from  this  inter- 
esting locality  would  doubtless  develop  a  series  of  fossils,  which 
would  forever  settle  the  question  of  the  relative  age  of  the  formation. 

A  few  miles  up  this  stream.  Captain  Fremont  has  collected  a  beau- 
tiful series  of  specimens  of  fossil  ferns.  The  rock  is  an  indurated  clay, 
wholly  destitute  of  carbonate  of  lime,  and  would  be  termed  a  "fire 
clay."  These  are  probably,  geologically  as  well  as  geographically, 
higher  than  the  oolite  specimens,  as  the  rocks  at  this  place  were 
observed  to  dip  in  the  direction  of  N.  65°  W.  at  an  angle  of  20  de- 
grees. This  would  show,  conclusively,  that  the  vegetable  remains 
occupy  a  higher  position  than  the  oolite.  Associated  with  these  vege- 
table remains,  were  found  several  beds  of  coal,  differing  in  thickness. 
The  section  of  strata  at  this  place  is  as  follows: 

ft.    in. 

Sandstone 10 

Coal 13 

Coal 13 

Indurated  clay,  with  vegetable  remains     .  20      0 

Clay 5      0 

Coal 

Clay 5      0 

Coal 

Clay 5      0 

Coal 

The  stratum  containing  the  fossil  ferns  is  about  20  feet  thick ;  and 
above  it  are  two  beds  of  coal,  each  about  15  inches.  These  are  suc- 
ceeded by  a  bed  of  sandstone.  Below  the  bed  containing  the  ferns, 
there  are  three  distinct  beds  of  coal,  each  separated  by  about  5  feet 

733 


of  clay.  Before  examining  the  oolitic  specimens  just  mentioned,  I 
compared  these  fossil  ferns  with  a  large  collection  from  the  coal 
measures  of  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio,  and  it  was  quite  evident  that 
this  formation  could  not  be  of  the  same  age.  There  are  several  speci- 
mens which  I  can  only  refer  to  the  Glossopteris  Phillipsii,  (see  de- 
scription,) an  oolitic  fossil;  and  this  alone,  with  the  general  character 
of  the  other  species,  and  the  absence  of  the  large  stems  so  common  in 
the  coal  period,  had  led  me  to  refer  them  to  the  oolitic  period.  I  con- 
ceive, however,  that  we  have  scarcely  sufficient  evidence  to  justify 
this  reference;  and  though  among  the  fossil  shells  there  are  none 
decidedly  typical  of  the  oolite,  yet  neither  are  they  so  of  any  other 
formation;  and  the  lithological  character  of  the  mass  is  not  reliable 
evidence.  Still,  viewed  in  whatever  light  we  please,  these  fossil  ferns 
must,  I  conceive,  be  regarded  as  mostly  of  new  species,  and  in  this 
respect  form  a  very  important  addition  to  the  flora  of  the  more  mod- 
ern geological  periods. 

In  passing  from  this  locality  westward  to  the  Bear  river.  Captain 
Fremont  crossed  a  high  mountain  chain,  which  is  the  dividing  ridge 
between  the  waters  of  Muddy  river  flowing  eastward,  and  those  of 
Muddy  creek  flowing  into  Bear  river  on  the  west.  The  gap  where 
the  ridge  was  crossed  is  stated  to  be  8,200  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  In  this  ridge,  115  miles  to  the  southward  of  the  locality  of 
the  fossils  last  mentioned,  were  collected  the  specimens  next  to  be 
named.  These  were  obtained  near  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  and 
probably  higher  than  the  point  where  Captain  Fremont's  party 
crossed. 

The  collection  from  this  locahty  (longitude  111°,  latitude  40°) 
consists  of  several  specimens  of  an  argillaceous,  highly  bituminous, 
and  somewhat  slaty  limestone,  loaded  with  fossils.  It  is  very  brittle, 
and  easily  shivered  into  small  fragments  by  a  blow  of  the  hammer. 
Its  natural  color  is  a  light  sepia,  but  it  bleaches  on  exposure  to  the 
atmosphere.  In  structure,  it  is  not  unlike  some  of  the  limestones 
of  the  lias  or  oolite  formations.  The  fossils  are  chiefly  one  species  of 
Cerithium  and  one  of  Mya;  and  besides  these  another  species  of 
Cerithium  and  a  Nucula  can  be  identified.  So  far  as  I  am  able  to 
ascertain,  these  fossils  are  undescribed,  and  will  therefore  be  re- 
garded as  new  species. 

It  may  be  considered  premature  to  decide  upon  the  geological 
position  of  this  mass.  It  may  belong  to  the  same  period,  though  far 
higher  in  the  series  than  those  in  the  same  longitude,  which  have 

734 


just  been  described.  In  the  locality  of  the  fossil  plants,  the  strata  dip 
W.  by  N.;  but,  from  the  structure  of  the  country,  it  is  evident  that 
there  is  a  change  in  the  direction  of  the  dip  before  reaching  the  high 
ridge  from  which  the  specimens  under  consideration  were  taken. 
Further  examination,  I  have  no  doubt,  will  set  this  question  at  rest. 

I  may  here  notice  the  interesting  fact  of  the  wide  extent  of  these 
formations,  showing  the  existence,  in  this  longitude,  of  these  cal- 
careous beds,  of  a  nature  precisely  like  those  of  the  modern  forma- 
tions of  western  Europe. 

A  few  miles  south  of  the  locality  of  these  fossils.  Captain  Fremont 
describes  the  occurrence  of  an  immense  stratum  of  fossil  salt;  and  the 
same  ridge  is  represented  as  bounding  the  Great  Salt  lake.  There 
would  therefore  seem  no  doubt  that  the  salt  in  question  is  associated 
with  the  strata  of  this  period,  and  probably  coeval  with  the  same. 

I  may  remark,  in  the  same  connexion,  that  the  surfaces  of  the 
specimens  containing  the  fossil  ferns  also  effloresce  a  salt,  which  is 
apparently  chloride  of  sodium.  This  fact  seems  to  indicate  the  pres- 
ence of  fossil  salt  at  this  distance  north  of  the  known  locality,  and 
is  a  circumstance  which  we  naturally  appropriate  as  part  of  the  evi- 
dence of  identity  in  the  age  of  the  formations. 

This  region  is  unquestionably  one  of  the  highest  interest,  both  as 
regards  its  economical  resources,  and  equally  so  in  the  contributions 
which  it  will  yield  to  geological  science.  In  the  specimens  from 
the  vegetable  locality,  I  have  been  able  to  indicate  seven  or  eight 
species  of  fossil  ferns,  most  of  which  are  new.  Further  researches  will 
doubtless  greatly  multiply  this  number.  Besides  these,  as  new  species 
probably  peculiar  to  our  continent,  they  have  a  higher  interest,  inas- 
much as  they  show  to  us  the  wide  extent  and  the  nature  of  the  vegeta- 
tion of  this  modern  coal  period.  In  the  broad  fields  of  the  west,  we 
shall  have  an  opportunity  of  tracing  it  over  large  and  unbroken 
areas,  and  many  highly  interesting  results  may  follow  its  comparison 
with  the  vegetation  of  the  true  carboniferous  period. 

Again:  since  these  deposites  have  evidently  been  made  over  large 
tracts  of  country,  it  is  not  unreasonable  to  suppose  that  the  quantity 
of  materials  accumulated  will  be  very  great,  and  that  we  may  expect 
to  find  profitable  coal  beds  in  the  rocks  of  this  age.  This  subject, 
besides  being  of  high  interest  to  science,  is  of  some  prospective  eco- 
nomical importance,  though  perhaps  too  remote  to  dwell  upon, 
while  the  country  remains  so  little  explored  as  at  present. 

Longitude  112°,  latitude  42°. — The  specimen  No.  72  is  a  grayish- 

735 


blue  limestone,  efflorescing  a  salt  upon  the  surface,  "from  the  Hot 
Salt  Springs  of  September  13,  1843."  No.  108  is  a  siliceous  limestone 
of  a  brownish-gray  color ;  where  exposed,  the  surface  becomes  porous, 
from  the  solution  and  removal  of  the  lime,  while  the  siliceous  par- 
ticles remain.  From  the  general  lithological  characters  of  the  speci- 
men, it  is  probably  a  modern  rock,  but  its  precise  age  cannot  be 
decided. 

Longitude  112°,  latitude  41^°. — The  single  specimen  from  this 
locality  is,  in  its  present  state,  "granular  quartz."  It  is,  however, 
very  evidently,  an  altered  sedimentary  rock,  with  the  lines  of  deposi- 
tion quite  distinctly  preserved.  This  rock  probably  comes  out  from 
under  the  siliceous  limestone  last  described,  both  having  been  altered 
by  modern  igneous  action.  The  character  of  the  specimens  from  the 
next  locality — three-quarters  of  a  degree  farther  west — may  perhaps 
throw  some  light  upon  the  present  condition  of  those  last  named. 

Longitude  112|°,  latitude  42|°;  at  the  American  Falls  of  Snake 
river. — The  collection  from  this  point  presents  the  following,  in  a 
descending  order.  These  specimens  are  numbered  94,  96,  97,  101,  102, 
106,  and  107: 

1.  A  botryoidal  or  concretionary  lava.  No.  94. 

2.  Obsidian,  No.  102. 

3.  Vitrified  sandstone.  No.  106. 

4.  A  whitish  ash-colored  chalk  or  limestone,  No.  107. 

5.  A  light  ashy  volcanic  sand.  No.  97. 

6.  Brown  sand,  volcanic.  (?) 

These  are  all  apparently  volcanic  products,  with,  probably,  the 
exception  of  Nos.  106  and  107,  which  may  be  sedimentary  products; 
the  first  altered  by  heat.  The  two  lower  deposites  are  evidently  vol- 
canic sand  or  "ashes;"  the  upper  of  these,  or  No.  5,  has  all  the  char- 
acters of  pulverized  pumice  stone,  and  is  doubtless  of  similar  origin. 

No.  107  is  an  impure  limestone,  but  little  harder  than  common 
chalk ;  and,  but  for  its  associations,  would  be  regarded  as  of  similar 
origin.* 

*  Since  this  was  written,  a  specimen  of  No.  107  has  been  submitted  to  the 
examination  of  Professor  Bailey,  who  finds  it  highly  charged  with  "calcareous 
polythalamia"  in  excellent  preservation.  He  remarks,  that  "the  forms  are, 
many  of  them,  such  as  are  common  in  chalk  and  cretaceous  marls;  but  as 
these  forms  are  still  living  in  our  present  oceans,  their  presence  does  not  af- 
ford conclusive  evidence  as  to  the  age  of  the  deposite  in  which  they  occur. 

736 


No.  106  is  apparently  a  vitrified  sandstone,  the  grains  all  rounded, 
and  the  surfaces  of  the  mass  highly  polished. 

No.  102  is  a  beautiful  black  obsidian. 

No.  94  is  a  mammillary  or  botryoidal  lava;  the  concretions 
having  a  radiated  structure,  the  mass  is  easily  frangible,  and  readily 
separates  into  small  angular  fragments. 

The  whole  of  this  series,  with  the  exception  of  No.  107,  may  be  re- 
garded as  of  volcanic  origin;  for  the  apparently  vitrified  sandstone 
may  be,  in  its  composition,  not  very  distinct  from  trap  or  basalt, 
though  it  is  more  vitreous,  and  its  fracture  fresher  and  brighter. 

Longitude  114^°,  latitude  42^°.— The  specimens  marked  No.  3 
are  of  light-colored  tufaceous  limestone  and  sificeous  limestone.  The 
specimens  appear  as  if  from  some  regular  formation,  broken  up  and 
thinly  coated  by  calcareous  matter  from  springs.  From  the  fact  ob- 
served by  Captain  Fremont,  that  these  fragments  enter  largely  into 
the  composition  of  the  soil,  we  may  presume  that  the  same  is  highly 
calcareous. 

The  specimen  No.  12,  from  the  same  locality,  consists  mainly  of 
small  fragments  of  the  crust,  claws,  &c.,  of  some  crustacean— prob- 
ably of  fresh-water  origin.  There  are  also  some  vertebrae  and  ribs 
of  fishes.  The  whole  is  so  unchanged,  and  of  such  recent  appearance, 
as  to  induce  a  belief  that  the  deposite  is  of  fresh-water  origin,  and 
due  to  the  desiccation  of  some  lake  or  stream.  Should  such  a  deposite 
be  extensive,  its  prospective  value  to  an  agricultural  community  will 
be  an  important  consideration.  But,  as  before  remarked,  there  is  evi- 
dently a  preponderance  of  calcareous  matter  throughout  the  whole 
extent  of  country  traversed. 

Longitude  115°,  latitude  43°.— The  specimens  from  this  locality 
are  numbered  16,  21,  and  39.  Nos.  16  and  21  are  angular  fragments 
of  impure  limestone  of  some  recent  geological  period,  and  No.  39 
consists  of  an  aggregation  of  pebbles  and  gravel.  The  pebbles  are  of 
black  siliceous  slate,  which  are  represented  as  forming  a  conglomer- 
ate with  the  limestone  fragments  just  mentioned.  The  limestone 
specimens  are  probably  broken  fragments  from  some  stratum  in  situ 


I  have,  however,  invariably  found  that  in  our  tertiary  deposites,  the  chalk 
polythalamia  are  accompanied  by  large  species  of  genera  peculiar  to  the  ter- 
tiary. Now,  as  these  are  entirely  wanting  in  the  specimen  from  Captain  Fre- 
mont, the  evidence,  as  jar  as  it  goes,  is  in  favor  of  the  view  that  the  specimen 
came  from  a  cretaceous  formation." 

737 


in  the  same  vicinity,  and  the  conglomerate  is  one  of  very  recent  for- 
mation. The  slate  pebbles  are  from  a  rock  of  much  older  date,  and 
w^orn  very  round  and  smooth,  while  the  limestone  bears  little  evi- 
dence of  attrition. 

The  gray  siliceous  limestone  specimens  contain  a  species  of  Tur- 
ritella,  and  a  small  bivalve  shell.  (See  descriptions  and  figures.) 

Longitude  115^°,  latitude  43|°. — The  two  specimens  from  this 
locality  are  of  volcanic  origin.  No.  46  is  a  reddish  compact  trap  or 
lava,  with  small  nodules  or  cavities  filled  with  analcime  and  stilbite. 
No.  52  is  a  coarse  and  porous  trap,  or  ancient  lava. 

Longitude  116°,  latitude  43^°. — The  single  specimen  from  this 
place  is  a  white  feldspathic  granite,  with  a  small  proportion  of 
quartz,  and  black  mica  in  small  scales.  The  specimen  contains  a 
single  garnet.  The  structure  is  somewhat  slaty,  and  from  appearances 
it  is  rapidly  destructible  from  atmospheric  agency. 

Longitude  117°,  latitude  44^°. — These  specimens  from  Brule  river 
are  numbered  4,  19,  41,  and  48. 

No.  4  is  a  slaty  limestone,  partially  altered,  probably  from  the 
proximity  of  igneous  rocks. 

No.  41  is  of  similar  character,  very  thinly  laminated,  and  of  a  dark 
color. 

No.  19  is  of  similar  character,  but  more  altered,  and  partially  crys- 
talline. The  lines  of  deposition  are,  however,  preserved. 

No.  48  has  the  appearance  of  a  compact  gray  feldspathic  lava ;  but 
there  are  some  apparent  lines  of  deposition  still  visible,  which  incline 
me  to  the  opinion  that  it  is  an  altered  sedimentary  rock. 

Longitude  117^°,  latitude  45°. — The  specimen  is  a  compact,  dark- 
colored  basalt,  showing  a  tendency  to  desquamate  upon  the  exposed 
surfaces.  This  rock  forms  the  mountains  of  Brule  river. 

Longitude  117^°,  latitude  45^°. — The  specimen  No.  110  is  a  fine- 
grained basalt  or  trap,  with  a  few  small  cells  filled  with  analcime. 
This  is  of  the  rock  forming  the  Blue  mountain. 

Longitude  118°,  latitude  45°. — The  single  specimen  (No.  43)  from 
this  locality  is  apparently  an  altered  siliceous  slate.  It  is  marked  by 
what  appear  to  be  lines  of  deposition,  the  thin  laminae  being  sepa- 
rated by  layers  of  mica. 

Longitude  119°,  latitude  38^°.— The  specimens  Nos.  14,  23,  45,  and 
51,  are  all  from  this  locality. 

No.  14  appears  to  be  a  decomposed  feldspar,  having  a  slightly 


738 


porous  structure;  it  is  very  light,  and  adheres  strongly  to  the  tongue. 

No.  23.  A  friable,  argillaceous  sandstone,  somewhat  porous  upon 
the  exposed  surfaces. 

No.  45.  A  compact  lava  of  a  sienitic  structure,  containing  obsidian. 
This  specimen  appears  much  like  some  of  the  porous  portions  of  trap 
dikes  which  cut  through  the  sienitic  rocks  of  New  England. 

No.  51.  Feldspar,  with  a  litde  black  mica.  The  specimen  is  prob- 
ably from  a  granite  rock,  though  its  structure  is  that  of  compact 
feldspar. 

Longitude  120°,  latitude  45^°.— The  single  specimen  (No.  20) 
from  this  locality  is  a  compact,  fine-grained  trap,  or  basalt,  with  a 
few  round  cavities  of  the  size  of  peas. 

Longitude  120^°,  latitude  38^°.— The  specimens  are  numbered  91, 
109,  and  117. 

No.  91  has  the  appearance  of  a  porous  trap,  or  basalt,  though  possi- 
bly the  production  of  a  modern  volcano.  It  is  thickly  spotted  with 
crystals  of  analcime,  some  apparently  segregated  from  the  mass,  and 
others  filling  vesicular  cavities. 

No.  117  is  a  compact  basalt,  the  specimen  exhibiting  the  character 
of  the  basalt  of  the  Hudson  and  Connecticut  river  valleys. 

No.  109  is  a  fine-grained  granite,  consisting  of  white  quartz  and 
feldspar,  with  black  mica.  Captain  Fremont  remarks  that  this  rock 
forms  the  eastern  part  of  the  main  California  mountain.  From  its 
granular  and  rather  loose  structure,  it  is  to  be  inferred  that  it  would 
undergo  rapid  decomposition  in  a  climate  like  ours. 

Longitude  121°,  latitude  44^.— The  specimens  from  this  locality 
are  numbered  53,  54,  55,  56,  57,  58,  59,  60,  and  61.  These  are  charac- 
teristic specimens  of  the  strata  composing  a  blufT  700  feet  high,  and 
are  numbered  in  the  descending  order. 

The  specimens  59,  60,  and  61,  are  three  specimens  of  what  appear 
to  be  very  fine  clay,  perfectly  free  from  carbonate  of  lime,  and  nearly 
as  white  as  ordinary  chalk.  These  three  specimens,  which  are  under- 
stood to  be  from  three  distinct  strata,  vary  but  slightly  in  their  char- 
acters— No.  61  being  of  the  lightest  color. 

No.  58  is  a  specimen  of  grayish  volcanic  breccia,  the  larger  portion 
consisting  of  volcanic  sand  or  ashes. 

Nos.  55,  56,  and  57,  are  of  the  same  character,  being,  however, 
nearly  free  from  fragments  or  pebbles,  and  composed  of  light  vol- 
canic sand,  or  scoria,  with  an  apparendy  large  admixture  of  clay 


739 


from  the  strata  below.  The  whole  is  not  acted  on  by  acids,  and,  so 
far  as  can  be  judged,  is  of  volcanic  origin. 

No.  58  is  of  similar  character  to  the  preceding  three  specimens, 
but  contains  more  fragments,  and  has  a  generally  coarser  aspect.* 

Longitude  121°,  latitude  45°. — These  specimens  are  numbered  7, 
35, 40, 47,  and  49. 

*  The  specimens  Nos.  59,  60,  and  61,  which  are  from  three  different  but 
contiguous  strata,  have  since  been  examined  by  Professor  J.  W.  Bailey,  of 
West  Point,  who  finds  them  charged  with  fluviatile  infusoria  of  remarkable 
forms. 

Below  are  descriptions  (accompanied  by  a  plate)  of  some  of  the  most  in- 
teresting forms,  which  were  sketched  by  him  with  a  camera-lucida  attached 
to  his  microscope.  It  has  not  been  considered  necessary  to  distinguish,  par- 
ticularly, to  which  of  the  strata  the  individuals  figured  belong,  as  no  species 
occur  in  one,  which  are  not  present  in  the  others.  They  are  evidently  deposites 
of  the  same  epoch,  and  differ  very  slightly  in  their  characters. 

Figs.  1,  2,  and  3.  Side  views  of  Eunotia  librile  of  Ehrenberg— The  species  is 
figured  and  described  by  Ehrenberg,  who  received  it  from  Real  del  Monte, 
Mexico.  It  resembles  Eunotia  Westermanni,  (Ehr.,)  but  differs  in  its  granula- 
tions. The  three  figures  are  from  individuals  of  different  age. 

Figs.  4  and  5.  Eunotia  gibba,  (Ehr.) — Identical  with  a  common  fresh- 
water species  now  living  at  West  Point. 

Fig.  6.  Pinnularia  pachyptera?  (Ehr.) — Ehrenberg's  figure  of  P.  pachyptera 
from  Labrador  is  very  similar  to  the  Oregon  species  here  represented. 

Figs.  7,  8,  and  9.  Cocconema  cymbijorme?  (Ehr.) — These  are  probably 
merely  varieties  of  the  same  species.  Fig.  8  is  rather  larger  than  C.  cymbi- 
forme  usually  grows  at  West  Point. 

Fig.  10.  Gomphonema  clavatum?  (Ehr.) — Front  view. 

Fig.  11.  Gomphonema  clavatum?  (Ehr.) — Side  view. 

Fig.  12  Gomphonema  minutissimum,  (Ehr.) — A  cosmopolite  species. 

Fig.  13.  Gallionella  {new  species,  a.) — This  is  evidently  identical  with  a 
large  species  which  I  have  described  and  figured  as  occurring  at  Dana's  lo- 
cality. (See  Silliman's  Journal  for  April,  1845.) 

Figs.  14  and  15.  Gallionella,  new  species?  S  {a — edge  view;  b — side  view.) 
— This  species  presents  remarkably  compressed  frustules,  which  are  marked  on 
their  circular  bases  with  radiant  lines.  It  is  particularly  abundant  in  Nos. 
59  and  61. 

Fig.  16.  Gallionella  distans? — This  very  minute  species  constitutes  the  chief 
mass  of  No.  60,  but  also  abounds  in  Nos.  59  and  61. 

Figs.  17  and  18.  Cocconeis  pratexta,  (Ehr.) — Appears  to  agree  with  a  species 
from  Mexico  figured  by  Ehrenberg. 

Fig.  19.  Fragillaria . 

Fig.  20.  Surirella . — A  fragment  only.  I  have  seen  several  fragments  of 

beautiful  Surirells,  but  have  not  yet  found  a  perfect  specimen  to  figure. 

Fig.  21.  Fragillaria  rhabdosoma? — Fragment. 

Figs.  22  and  23.  Spicules  of  fresh-water  sponges. — Spongilla. 

Fig.  24.  Four-sided  crystal  of ? 

Fig.  25.  Scale  =  10-lOOths  of  millimetre  magnified  equally  with  the  draw- 
ings. 

740 


Fossil  fresh-water  infusoria  from  Oregon 


741 


No.  7  Is  a  siliceous  sinter,  coated  externally  with  hydrate  of  iron. 

No.  35.  A  reddish,  rather  compact  lava.  The  color  is  owing  to  the 
presence  of  iron,  which  hastens  its  decomposition  on  exposure. 

No.  40.  A  reddish  brecciated  feldspathic  lava,  embracing  frag- 
ments of  light-colored  siliceous  sandstone  or  lava. 

No.  47.  Compact  trap,  or  basalt,  with  a  few  rounded  cavities.  This 
specimen  is  precisely  like  No.  20,  longitude  120°;  and,  from  the 
description  given,  appears  to  be  a  prevailing  rock  along  the  valley  of 
the  Columbia  river. 

No.  49.  An  imperfect  striped  agate,  with  the  centre  of  siliceous 
sinter.  This,  with  Nos,  7  and  40,  is  doubtless  associated  with  the 
basalt,  No.  47,  which  is  the  prevailing  rock. 

Longitude  122°,  latitude  45^°;  Cascades  of  the  Columbia  river. — 
From  this  place  are  the  specimens  numbered  9,  10,  13,  17,  18,  22,  24, 
25,  27, 30, 36,  37,  38,  and  44. 

Of  these  specimens,  Nos.  13  and  24  are  indurated  clay,  with  im- 
pressions of  leaves  of  dicotyledonous  plants. 

No.  17  is  a  fine  argillaceous  sandstone,  with  stems  and  leaves, 
which  still  retain  their  fibrous  structure. 

No.  30  is  a  specimen  of  dicotyledonous  wood,  partially  replaced  by 
stony  matter,  and  a  portion  still  retaining  the  fibrous  structure  and 
consistency  of  partially  carbonized  wood. 

Nos.  10,  25,  27,  and  38,  are  specimens  of  coal  from  the  same  lo- 
cality. (For  further  information  of  these,  see  analysis  of  specimens 
appended.) 

No.  22.  Carbonaceous  earth,  with  pebbles,  evidently  a  part  of  the 
formation  to  which  the  previous  specimens  are  referred. 

No.  18  is  a  compact  trap,  apparently  having  a  stratified  structure. 

No.  36.  A  porus  basaltic  lava,  with  crystals  of  analcime,  &c. 

No.  37.  Two  specimens — one  a  porous  or  rather  scoriaceous  lava  of 
a  reddish  color;  and  the  other  a  compact  gray  lava,  with  a  few  small 
cavities. 

No.  44.  A  brown  scoriaceous  lava. 

No.  44«.  A  small  specimen  of  compact  lava. 

Miscellaneous  specimens. 

No.  62.  A  coral  in  soft  limestone;  the  structure  too  much  obliter- 
ated to  decide  its  character.  (From  the  dividing  ridge  between  Bear 
creek  and  Bear  river,  at  a  point  8,200  feet  above  tide  water.) 

742 


No.  71.  Calcareous  tufa,  containing  the  remains  of  grasses,  twigs, 
moss,  &c. 

No.  81.  Calcareous  tufa  stained  with  iron. 

No.  98.  Ferruginous  calcareous  tufa,  containing  remains  of  twigs, 
&c. 

These  three  last-named  specimens  are  evidently  the  calcareous  de- 
posites  from  springs  holding  carbonate  of  lime  in  solution. 


743 


APPENDIX. 
B. 

Organic  Remains. 

Descriptions  of  organic  remains  collected  by  Captain  J.  C.  Fremont, 
in  the  geographical  survey  of  Oregon  and  North  California:  by 
fames  Hall,  paleontologist  to  the  State  of  New  York,. 

Plates  I  and  II. 

Fossil  ferns,  etc. 

The  specimens  here  described  are  all  from  one  locality,  in  longi- 
tude 111°,  latitude  41^°.  They  occur  in  a  light-gray  indurated  clay, 
which  is  entirely  free  from  calcareous  matter,  very  brittle,  and  hav- 
ing a  very  imperfect  slaty  structure.  Nearly  all  the  species  differ 
from  any  described  in  Brongniart's  "Hist.  Veg.  Foss.,"  in  Goppert's 
"Systema  Filicum  Fossilium,"  or  in  Phillips's  "Geology  of  York- 
shire." 

1.  Sphenopteris  Fremonti.  pi.  2,  figs.  3,  3  a.  (No.  118  of  collec- 
tion.) Compare  sphenopteris  crenulata;  Brong.  Hist.  Veg.  Foss.  i,  p. 
187,  t.  56,  f.  3. 

Description. — Frond  bipinnate,  (or  tripinnate?)  rachis  moderately 
strong,  striated;  pinnae  oblique  to  the  rachis,  rigid,  moderately  ap- 
proximate, alternate;  pinnules  subovate,  somewhat  decurrent  at  the 
base,  about  three  or  four  lobed;  fructification  very  distinct  in  round 
dots  (capsules)  of  carbonaceous  matter  upon  the  margins  of  the  pin- 
nules. 3  <?,  a  portion  twice  magnified. 

I  have  named  this  beautiful  and  unique  species  in  honor  of  Cap- 
tain Fremont,  and  as  a  testimony  of  the  benefits  that  science  has  de- 
rived from  his  valuable  explorations  on  the  west  of  the  Rocky 
mountains. 

2.  Sphenopteris  triloba.  PI.  1,  fig.  8.  (Nos.  65,  79,  and  80,  of  col- 
lection.) 

Description. — Frond  bipinnate,  or  tripinnate;  rachis  slender,  flexu- 
ous;  pinnae  long,  flexuous,  distant,  opposite,  perpendicular  to  the 
rachis;  pinnules  oblong,  sub-trilobate,  opposite  or  alternate,  narrow 
at  base,  distant,  perpendicular. 

The  distant,  long,  and  flexuous  pinnae,  with  the  small  trilobate  pin- 


744 


nules,  distinguish  this  species.  In  general  features,  it  approaches 
somewhat  the  sphetiopteris  rigid  a,  (Brong.,)  but  differs  essentially  in 
the  smaller  pinnules,  which  are  usually  nearly  opposite,  and  in  never 
being  more  than  sub-trilobate,  while  in  S.  rigida  they  are  often 
deeply  5-lobed. 

3.  Sphenopteris  (?)  paucifolia  pi.  2,  figs.  \,  \  a,  \  b,  \  c,  \  d. 
(No.  118  of  collection.) 

Description. — Frond  tripinnate;  rachis  rather  slender,  with  long, 
lateral,  straight  branches,  which  are  slightly  oblique;  pinnae  slender, 
nearly  at  right  angles,  alternate  and  opposite;  pinnules  minute,  oval- 
ovate,  somewhat  distant,  opposite  or  alternate,  expanded  or  attenuate 
at  base,  sometimes  deeply  bilobed  or  digitate;  midrib  not  apparent. 

This  species  was  evidently  a  beautiful  fern  of  large  size,  with 
slender,  sparse  foliage,  giving  it  a  peculiarly  delicate  appearance.  In 
some  of  its  varieties,  (as  figure  1  b,)  it  resembles  Sphenopteris  digi- 
tata;  Phillips's  Geol.  Yorkshire,  p.  147,  pi.  S,  figs.  6  and  7;  Sphen. 
Williamsoni,  Brong.  Hist.  Veg.  Foss.,  i,  p.  177,  t.  49,  figs.  6,  7,  and  8. 
The  fossil  under  consideration,  however,  is  quite  a  different  species. 
In  the  figure  1  a,  the  branches  and  pinnules  are  more  lax;  figure  1  d 
is  a  magnified  portion. 

In  its  general  aspect,  this  fossil  resembles  the  genus  Pachypteris,  to 
which  I  had  been  inclined  to  refer  it,  but  for  the  digitate  character 
of  the  pinnules  manifested  by  some  specimens. 

4.  Sphenopteris  (?)  trifoliata.  PL  2,  figs.  2,  2  a.  (No.  86  of  col- 
lection.) 

Description. — Frond  bipinnate;  pinnae  trifoliate;  pinnules  elliptic, 
narrowing  at  the  base;  rachis  slender,  flexuous;  fructification  ter- 
minal, raceme-like,  from  the  pinnules  gradually  becoming  single 
and  fructiferous. 

Fig.  2  a — part  of  the  fructiferous  portion  enlarged,  showing  the 
capsules,  apparently  immersejd  in  a  thickened  pinnule.  This  is  a  most 
beautiful  and  graceful  species,  approaching  in  some  respects  to  the 
S.  paucifolia  just  described. 

5.  Glossopteris  Phillipsh?  PI.  2,  figs.  5,5  a,  5  b,  5  c.  (Nos.  69,  82, 
and  86,  of  the  collection.)  Compare  Glossopteris  Phillipsii,  Brong. 
Hist.  Veg.  Foss.,  p.  225,  t.  61  bis,  fig.  2;  Pecopteris  paucifolia,  Phil- 
lips's Geol.  Yorkshire,  p.  119,  pi.  viii,  fig.  8. 

Description. — "Leaves  linear  lanceolate,  narrow,  narrowing  to- 
wards the  base  and  apex;  nervules  oblique,  dichotomous,  lax,  scarcely 


745 


distinct,  subimmersed  in  the  thick  parenchyma."  Brong.  ut  sup., 
p.  225. 

The  specimen  fig.  5  corresponds  precisely  with  the  figure  of  Bron- 
gniart,  pi.  61  bis,  fig.  5,  both  in  form  of  the  leaf  and  arrangement  of 
the  nervules,  so  as  to  leave  little  doubt  of  their  identity.  Figure  5  is  a 
nearly  perfect  leaf  of  this  species;  fig.  5  «  is  the  base  of  another 
specimen,  having  a  long  foot-stalk;  fig.  5  ^  is  the  base  of  another 
leaf  with  fructification  ( ?) ;  fig.  5  c  the  same  magnified.  This  struc- 
ture is  so  partial,  that  it  can  only  with  doubt  be  referred  to  the  fruc- 
tification of  the  plant;  and  it  is  not  improbable  that  the  same  may 
be  some  parasitic  body,  or  the  eggs  of  an  insect  which  have  been 
deposited  upon  the  leaf.  Whatever  this  may  have  been,  it  does  not 
appear  to  have  been  calcareous;  and  the  total  absence  of  calcareous 
matter  in  the  rock  is  an  objection  to  referring  the  same  to  flustra,  or 
any  of  the  parasitic  corals.  The  ferns  are  abundant  in  the  rock  at 
this  point,  and  many  of  them  unbroken,  and  evidently  not  far  or 
long  transported,  which,  had  they  been,  would  have  given  support 
to  the  supposition  of  this  body  being  coral. 

I  have  referred  this  species  to  the  Glossopteris  Phillipsii,  as  being 
the  only  description  and  figure  accessible  to  me,  to  which  this  fossil 
bears  any  near  resemblance.  The  geological  position  of  that  fossil  is 
so  well  ascertained  to  be  the  schists  of  the  upper  part  of  the  oolitic 
period,  that,  relying  upon  the  evidence  offered  by  a  single  species,  we 
might  regard  it  as  a  strong  argument  for  referring  all  the  other 
specimens  to  the  same  geological  period. 

The  two  following  species,  or  varieties  of  the  same  species,  have 
been  referred  with  doubt  to  the  genus  pecopteris;  but  a  close  exam- 
ination shows  the  midrib  only  partially  distinct,  and  in  some  cases 
scarcely  visible,  while  the  nervules  radiate  from  the  base.  In  other 
cases,  the  midrib  appears  well  marked  at  the  base,  but  disappears  in 
numerous  ramifications  before  reaching  the  apex.  The  character, 
therefore,  given  by  Brongniart,  of  "nervo  medio  valde  notato,  nee 
apice  evanescente,"  is  inapplicable  to  these  species;  but  the  same  fea- 
ture may  be  observed  in  some  figured  by  Brongniart  himself. 

6.  Pecopteris  undulata.  PL  1,  figs.  \,  \  a.  (Nos.  83  and  118  of 
collection.) 

Deseriptiofi. — Frond  bipinnate;  rachis  slender;  pinnae  long,  slightly 
oblique  to  the  rachis,  opposite  and  alternate;  pinnules  oblique,. oval- 
ovate,  broad  at  the  base,  and  the  lower  ones  sometimes  lobed,  grad- 
ually becoming  coadunate  towards  the  extremity  of  the  pinnae. 

746 


Fossil  ferns,  Plate  1 
747 


The  pinnules  have  often  an  apparently  continuous  smooth  outline ; 
but,  on  closer  examination,  they  appear  undulated,  or  indented  upon 
the  margin ;  and  many  of  them  are  obviously  so. 

7.  Pecopteris  undulata;  var.  PI.  1,  figs.  2,2  a,  2  b.  (No.  78  of  col- 
lection.) 

Description.— Vmnd  bipinnate;  rachis  slender;  pinnae  numerous, 
long,  and  gradually  tapering,  oblique  to  the  rachis;  pinnules  oval- 
ovate,  broad  at  base;  midrib  evanescent;  nervules  strong,  bifurcating 
towards  the  apex;  margins  lobed  or  indented,  particularly  in  those 
near  the  base  of  the  pinnae. 

This  species  may  be  regarded  as  a  variety  of  the  last,  though  the 
pinnules  are  longer  and  less  broad  proportionally;  but  the  general 
aspect  is  similar,  and  the  habit  of  the  plant  precisely  the  same. 

The  specimen  fig.  2  b  can  only  be  regarded  as  an  extreme  variety 
of  the  same  species,  v^hich  is  approached  in  some  of  the  enlarged 
pinnules,  as  fig.  2  a. 

8.  Pecopteris  (?)  odontopteroides.  PI.  1,  figs.  3  and  4.  (Nos.  78 
and  118  of  collection.) 

Description.— Frond  bipinnate?  pinnae  long  and  slender;  sec- 
ondary pinnae  sub-distant,  gradually  tapering,  nearly  perpendicular; 
pinnules  subrotund,  obtuse,  small,  approximate,  oblique,  alternate, 
and  coadunate  at  base;  nervules  strong,  diverging  from  base;  no  dis- 
tinct midrib. 

Fig.  4.  A  few  of  the  pinnae  near  the  termination  of  a  frond. 

The  arrangement  of  the  pinnules  and  nerves  in  this  species 
strongly  reminds  one  of  the  Odontopteris  Schlotheimii,  Brong.  Hist. 
Veg.  Foss.,  p.  256,  t.  78,  fig.  5— a  fossil  fern  of  the  Pennsylvania  coal 
measures;  but  this  is  essentially  different. 

The  aspect  of  the  three  last-named  plants  is  more  like  that  of  the 
true  coal-measure  ferns  than  any  of  the  others;  but  the  whole  as- 
sociation, and  their  fossil  condition,  demand  that  they  should  be  re- 
ferred to  a  very  modern  period. 

New  genus — trichopteris. 

Character.— Vrond  slender,  flexuous,  in  tufts  or  single,  branching 
or  pinnate;  branches  long,  very  slender. 

9.  Trichopteris  filamentosa.  PL  2,  fig.  6.  (No.  78  of  collection.) 
Compare  Fucoides  cequalis,  Brong.  Hist.  Veg.  Foss.,  p.  58,  t.  5,  figs. 
3  and  4. 

748 


Fossil  ferns,  Plate  2 
749 


Description. — Frond  pinnate  or  bipinnate;  rachis  long,  and  almost 
equally  slender  throughout;  branches  numerous,  regular,  alternate, 
simple,  elongated,  very  slender,  and  flexuous. 

The  branches  are  frequently  folded  back  upon  themselves,  and 
undulated,  lying  like  the  finest  thread  upon  the  surface  of  the  stone. 
This  species  is  very  delicate  and  graceful,  and  can  scarcely  be  ex- 
amined without  the  aid  of  a  magnifier.  This  fossil  is  very  similar  to 
the  Fucoides  cequalis  of  Brong.,  (from  the  lower  chalk,)  except  that 
the  branches  are  longer  and  undivided. 

10.  Trichopteris  gracilis,  pi.  1,  fig.  5.  (No.  84  of  collection.) 
Description. — Slender,    stems    numerous,    flexuous,    in    a    tuft, 

branched ;  branches  numerous,  slender,  oblique,  stronger  than  in  the 
last  species. 

This  species  is  more  robust  than  the  first  described,  but  evidently 
belongs  to  the  same  genus.  I  had  first  supposed  that  this  might  be  a 
collection  of  fern  stems,  stripped  of  their  foliage;  but  their  slender 
structure,  long  branches,  and  peculiar  arrangement,  with  the  ap- 
propriate proportion  of  all  the  parts,  forbid  its  reference  to  any  thing 
of  this  kind;  it  is  therefore  placed  in  a  new  genus. 

11.  Stems  of  ferns.  PI.  1,  fig.  7. 

The  stems  of  ferns,  denuded  of  leaves,  and  portions  only  of  the 
branches  remaining.  Great  numbers  of  these  stems  occur,  mingled 
with  fragments  of  leaves  and  other  portions  of  ferns  still  perfect. 

12.  Leaf  of  a  dycotyledonous  plant.  (?)  PI.  2,  fig.  4.  (Fr.  Aug. 
17,  and  No.  201  of  collection.) 

Description. — Leaf  ovate-lanceolate,  lobed,  lobes  acute,  mucronate; 
midrib  straight,  distinct,  dichotomous;  principal  divisions  going  to 
the  mucronate  points. 

This  leaf  has  the  aspect  of  the  leaf  of  a  dicotyledonous  plant,  and 
approaches  remotely  only  to  the  character  of  species  of  the  genus 
Phlebopteris  of  Brongniart,  which  are  regarded  as  such  by  Phillips, 
and  by  Lindley  and  Hutton.  The  specimen  was  not  observed  soon 
enough  to  make  a  satisfactory  comparison. 

Locality,  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  specimens  containing  the  pre- 
ceding fossils,  and  regarded  by  Captain  Fremont  as  belonging  to  the 
same  formation.  The  rock  containing  them  is  a  soft  or  very  partially 
indurated  clay,  very  unlike  the  hard  and  brittle  mass  containing  the 
other  species. 


750 


Plate  III. 
Fossil  shells,  &c. 


Figures  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  and  7,  are  from  longitude  111°,  latitude  40' 
Figures  11,  12,  and  13,  are  from  longitude  111°,  latitude  4U°. 
Figures  8,  9,  and  10,  are  from  longitude  115°,  latitude  43°. 
Figures  14  and  15,  leaves,  from  longitude  122°,  latitude  45^' 


o 
'2    • 


13.  Mya  tellinoides.*  PI.  3,  figs.  1  and  2.  Compare  unio  peregri- 
nus;  Phillips's  Geol.  Yorkshire,  pi.  7,  fig.  12.  (Nos.  8,  28,  and  32,  of 
collection.) 

Description.— OvsLte,  posterior  side  extended,  slope  gentle,  rounded 
at  the  extremity;  anterior  side  regularly  rounded;  surface  nearly 
smooth,  or  marked  only  by  lines  of  growth;  beaks  slightly  wrinkled; 
moderately  prominent. 

The  specimen  fig.  1  is  an  entire  shell;  fig.  2  is  a  cast  of  the  two 
valves  of  a  smaller  specimen,  retaining  a  small  portion  of  the  shell. 
Another  specimen,  larger  than  either  of  these,  presents  the  inside  of 
both  valves,  with  the  hinge  broken. 

Locality  in  longitude  111°,  latitude  40°,  in  slaty  bituminous  lime- 
stone. 

14.  NucuLA  Impressa  ( ?)  G.  PI.  3,  fig.  3.  (No.  32  of  collection.) 
D«<:n/7//o«.— Sub-elliptical;    posterior    extremity    somewhat    ex- 
panded; surface  smooth.  A  few  of  the  teeth  are  still  visible  on  the 
anterior  hinge  margin,  but  the  greater  part  of  the  hinge  line  is  ob- 
scured. 

Locality  in  longitude  111°,  latitude  40°,  in  slaty  bituminous  lime- 
stone. 

15.  Cytherea  parvula.  PI.  3,  figs.  10  and  10  a.  (No.  21  of  collec- 
tion.) Compare  hocardia  angulata?  Phillips's  Geol.  Yorkshire,  pi.  9, 

fig.  9. 

Descriptiofi.—0\2Ltc  trigonal;  umbones  elevated;  beaks  incurved; 
surface  marked  by  regular  concentric  lines  of  growth;  umbones  and 
beaks  with  a  few  stronger  wrinkles.  The  umbones  of  this  shell  are 


*  The  species,  where  no  authority  is  given,  are  regarded  as  new,  and  will  be 
so  understood. 


751 


scarcely  diverging  or  involute  enough  to  place  it  in  the  genus  Iso- 
cardia,  where  it  would  otherwise  very  naturally  belong. 

Locality  in  longitude  115°,  latitude  43°,  in  gray  argillaceous  lime- 
stone. Two  other  specimens  of  the  same  shell  were  noticed. 

16.  Pleurotomaria  uniangulata.  pi.  3,  figs.  4  and  5.  (Nos.  8  and 
32  of  collection.) 

Description. — Turbinate:  whorls,  about  six,  gradually  enlarging; 
convex  below,  and  angular  above;  suture  plain;  surface  marked  by 
fine  lines  of  growth.  Aperture  round-oval;  shell  thin,  fragile. 

The  specimens  are  all  imperfect,  and  more  or  less  crushed;  the 
figures,  however,  are  good  representations  of  the  fossil.  It  is  readily 
distinguished  by  its  fine  lines  of  growth,  resembling  a  species  of 
Helix,  and  by  the  angular  character  of  the  upper  part  of  each  whorl. 

Locality  in  longitude  111°,  latitude  40°,  in  a  dark  slaty  bituminous 
limestone. 

17.  Cerithium  tenerum.  pi.  3,  figs.  6,  6  a.  (Nos.  8,  32,  and  34,  of 
collection.) 

Description. — Elongated,  subulate;  whorls,  about  10,  marked  with 
strong  ridges,  which  are  again  crossed  by  finer  lines  in  the  direction 
of  the  whorls.  The  strong  vertical  ridges  are  often  obsolete  on  the 
last  whorl,  as  in  fig.  6  a,  and  the  spiral  lines  much  stronger. . 

This  shell  is  very  strongly  marked,  and  its  external  aspect  is  suf- 
ficient to  distinguish  it:  it  is  easily  fractured,  and,  from  the  nature 
of  the  matrix,  it  has  been  impossible  to  obtain  a  specimen  exhibiting 
the  mouth  perfectly. 

Locality,  same  as  the  preceding. 

18.  Cerithium  Fremonti.  PL  3,  figs.  7,  7  a.  (No.  28  of  collection.) 
Description. — Shell  terete,  ovate,  acute;  whorls,  about  nine,  con- 
vex; summit  of  each  one  coronated;  surface  marked  by  regular  rows 
of  pustular  knobs,  often  with  smaller  ones  between;  beak  small, 
sharp;  mouth  not  visible  in  the  specimen. 

This  is  a  very  beautifully  marked  shell,  with  the  summit  of  each 
whorl  crowned  with  a  row  of  short  spines. 
Locality,  same  as  the  preceding. 

19.  Natica  (?)  occiDENTALis.  PI.  3,  figs.  8,  8  a.  (Nos.  16  and  21  of 
collection.) 

Description. — Depressed,  conical,  or  sub-globose;  spire  short,  con- 
sisting of  about  five  whorls,  the  last  one  comprising  the  greater  part 
of  the  shell;  aperture  semi-oval,  rounded  at  both  extremities;  um- 
bilicus small.  Surface  marked  by  lines  of  growth. 

752 


Fossil  shells,  Plate  i 


753 


There  is  a  single  perfect  specimen  and  several  casts  of  this  delicate 
little  shell.  The  mouth  is  not  entire,  but  enough  remains  to  show 
that  the  lip  was  a  little  expanded ;  but  whether  the  columella  covered 
a  part  of  the  umbilicus  is  uncertain. 

Locality  in  longitude  115°,  latitude  43°,  in  a  gray  siliceous  lime- 
stone. 

20.  TuRRiTELLA  BiLiNEATA.  PI.  3,  fig.  9.  (No.  21  of  Collection.) 
Description. — Elongated,  subulate,  spire  rapidly  ascending;  whorls 

marked  by  a  double,  elevated,  spiral  line,  which  is  notched  in  the 
lower  whorls. 

The  specimen  figured  is  imperfect,  only  the  upper  part  of  the  shell 
remaining.  Several  casts  of  the  same  species  occur  in  the  specimens. 

Locality,  same  as  the  preceding. 

21.  Cerithium  nodulosum.  pi.  3,  figs.  11  and  12.  (Nos.  64,  68,  and 
74,  of  collection.) 

Description. — Elongated,  subulate;  spire  rapidly  ascending;  whorls 
about  seven;  the  sutures  marked  by  a  spiral  band;  surface  of 
whorls  marked  by  curved  striae,  or  elevated  lines,  in  the  direction  of 
the  lines  of  growth.  Whorls  carinated  with  a  row  of  protuberances 
along  the  centre. 

The  arched  lines  of  growth  are  more  distinct  upon  the  last  whorl, 
and  it  is  marked  beneath  by  a  few  spiral  lines. 

Fig.  11  is  a  perfect  specimen.  Fig.  12.  The  left-hand  figure  is  a 
cast  of  the  same  species ;  the  right-hand  figure  retains  the  shell  upon 
the  upper  part,  while  it  is  removed  from  the  lower  part. 

Locality  in  longitude  111°,  latitude  41^°,  in  yellowish-gray  oolitic 
limestone. 

22.  Turbo  paludin^formis.  PI.  3,  fig.  13.  (No.  64  of  collection.) 
Description. — Whorls,    about    four,    rapidly    enlarging,    convex, 

smooth;  mouth  round-oval;  columella  slightly  reflected;  volutions 
marked  by  fine  arched  striae  in  the  direction  of  the  lines  of  growth. 

A  small  portion  only  of  the  shell  remains  upon  the  specimen  fig- 
ured, but  it  is  retained  in  the  matrix.  This  fossil  occurs  in  gray  or 
yellowish  oolite,  associated  with  Cerithium  nodulosum,  and  other 
shells.  It  resembles  Paludina  in  form. 

Locality,  same  as  the  preceding. 

23.  Leaves  of  dicotyledonous  plants.  PI.  3,  figs.  14  and  15. 
The  specimens  have  not  been  satisfactorily  identified,  but  doubt- 
less belong  to  a  very  modern  tertiary  deposite. 

Locality,  Cascades  of  the  Columbia  river. 

754 


Plate  IV. 

24.  Inoceramus ?  PI.  4,  figs.  1  and  1  a.  (Nos.  26,  29,  31,  33, 

and  38,  of  collection.)  Compare  Inoceramus  mytiloides,  Sow.  Min. 
Con.,  tab.  442. 

Description. — Inequavalved,  depressed,  and  elongated;  surface 
marked  by  numerous  waved  lines  and  ridges;  convex  towards  the 
beaks;  beaks  short  and  obtuse,  somewhat  obsolete  in  old  specimens; 
hinge  line  oblique. 

In  the  old  specimens,  the  shell  appears  much  flattened,  except 
towards  the  beaks;  while  in  the  younger  specimens  it  is  more  con- 
vex, and  particularly  so  towards  the  beaks.  The  youngest  specimens 
are  finely  lined,  and  the  whole  surface  of  one  valve  quite  convex. 

This  fossil  apparently  exists  in  great  numbers,  as  in  the  specimens 
examined  there  were  individuals  in  all  stages  of  growth;  though 
mostly  broken  or  separated  valves.  The  same  species  was  collected 
by  the  late  Mr.  Nicollet,  near  the  Great  Bend  of  the  Missouri. 

Locality,  Smoky  Hill  river,  longitude  98°,  latitude  38°,  in  yellow- 
ish and  gray  limestone  of  the  cretaceous  formation. 

25.  Inoceramus ?  PI.  4,  fig.  2.  (No.  42  of  collection.)  Com- 
pare Inoceramus  involutus,  Sow.  Min.  Con.,  tab.  583. 

Description.— 'btm\c\xzw\2.x\  surface  flat,  with  the  margin  deflected; 
marked  by  strong,  regular  concentric  ridges,  which  become  attenu- 
ated on  either  side,  and  are  nearly  obsolete  towards  the  beak ;  beak  of 
one  valve  small,  not  elevated;  hinge  line  nearly  rectangular. 

The  strong  concentric  ridges  distinguish  this  fossil  from  any  other 
species.  The  specimen  figured  is  probably  the  flat  valve,  as  a  frag- 
ment of  a  large  and  much  more  convex  valve  accompanies  this  one, 
from  the  same  locality.  The  shell,  particularly  towards  the  margin, 
is  very  thick  and  fibrous. 

Locality,  near  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  in  longi- 
tude 105°,  latitude  39°,  in  light  yellowish-gray  limestone,  probably  of 
the  cretaceous  formation. 

Note. — The  specimens  figured  on  plate  III,  Nos.  1,  2,  4,  5,  and  6, 
have  the  appearance  of  fluviatile  shells,  and  would  have  been  so  re- 
garded but  for  the  occurrence  of  fig.  3,  which  appears  to  be  a  Nucula, 
and  fig.  7,  in  the  same  association,  the  sculpturing  of  which  is  unlike 
any  of  the  Melania  known  to  me.  It  is  not  improbable,  however,  that 
this  may  prove  a  fresh-water  deposite  of  vast  interest,  as  it  appears  to 

755 


be  of  great  extent,  and  occurs  at  a  great  elevation.  The  researches  of 
Capt.  Fremont,  in  his  future  explorations,  will  doubtless  set  this  ques- 
tion at  rest,  by  a  larger  collection  of  fossils  from  the  same  region. 


756 


Fossil  shells,  Plate  4 
757 


APPENDIX. 


Note  Concerning  the  Plants  Collected  in  the  Second 
Expedition  of  Captain  Fremont. 

When  Captain  Fremont  set  out  on  his  second  expedition,  he  was 
well  provided  with  paper  and  other  means  for  making  extensive 
botanical  collections;  and  it  was  understood  that,  on  his  return,  we 
should,  conjointly,  prepare  a  full  account  of  his  plants,  to  be  ap- 
pended to  his  report.  About  1,400  species  were  collected,  many  of 
them  in  regions  not  before  explored  by  any  botanist.  In  consequence, 
however,  of  the  great  length  of  the  journey,  and  the  numerous  acci- 
dents to  which  the  party  were  exposed,  but  especially  owing  to  the 
dreadful  flood  of  the  Kansas,  which  deluged  the  borders  of  the  Mis- 
souri and  Mississippi  rivers,  more  than  half  of  his  specimens  were 
ruined  before  he  reached  the  borders  of  civilization.  Even  the  portion 
saved  was  greatly  damaged;  so  that,  in  many  instances,  it  has  been 
extremely  difficult  to  determine  the  plants.  As  there  was  not  suffi- 
cient time  before  the  publication  of  Captain  Fremont's  report  for  the 
proper  study  of  the  remains  of  his  collection,  it  has  been  deemed  ad- 
visable to  reserve  the  greater  part  of  them  to  incorporate  with  the 
plants  which  we  expect  he  will  bring  with  him  on  returning  from 
his  third  expedition,  upon  which  he  has  just  set  out. 

The  loss  sustained  by  Captain  Fremont,  and,  I  may  say,  by  the 
botanical  world,  will,  we  trust,  be  partly  made  up  the  present  and 
next  seasons,  as  much  of  the  same  country  will  be  passed  over  again, 
and  some  new  regions  explored.  Arrangements  have  also  been  made, 
by  which  the  botanical  collections  will  be  preserved,  at  least  from  the 
destructive  effects  of  water;  and  a  person  accompanies  the  expedi- 
tion, who  is  to  make  drawings  of  all  the  most  interesting  plants. 
Particular  attention  will  be  given  to  the  forest  trees  and  the  vegetable 
productions  that  are  useful  in  the  arts,  or  that  are  employed  for  food 
or  medicine. 

John  Torrey. 


758 


n 


Descriptions  of  some  new  genera  and  species  of  plants,  collected  i 
Captain  /.  C.  Tremont's  exploring  expedition  to  Oregon  and 
North  California,  in  the  years  1843-44:  By  John  Torrey  and  J.  C. 
Fremont. 


195 


Cleomella  (?)  OBTUsiFOLiA.  To/T.  and  Frem. 

Branching  from  the  base,  and  diffuse;  leaflets  cuneate-obovate,  ob- 
tuse; style  fihform. 

Annual,  stem  smooth,  the  branches  spreading,  about  a  span  long, 
hairy  in  the  axils.  Leaves,  or  petioles,  an  inch  or  more  in  length;  the 
lamina  of  the  leaflets  4-6  lines  long,  apiculate  with  a  deciduous 
brisde,  nearly  smooth  above,  sparsely  strigose  underneath.  Pedicels 
solitary  and  axillary,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  branches,  longer  than 
the  petioles.  Calyx  much  shorter  than  the  corolla;  the  sepals  lacer- 
ately  3-5-toothed.  Petals  yellow,  oblong-lanceolate,  obtuse,  about  3 
lines  in  length.  Stamens  6,  unequal,  a  little  exserted;  anthers  linear- 
oblong,  recurved  when  old.  Torus  hemispherical.  Ovary  on  a  long 
slender  stipe,  obovate;  style  longer  than  the  ovary. 

On  the  American  fork  of  the  Sacramento  river;  March.  The  speci- 
mens are  not  in  fruit,  so  that  we  cannot  be  certain  as  to  the  genus; 
but  it  seems  to  be  a  Cleomella. 

Meconella  Californica.  Torr.  and  Frem. 

Leaves  obovate-spatulate;  stamens  11-12. 

On  the  American  fork  of  the  Sacramento  river. 

This  species  is  intermediate  between  Meconella  and  Platystigma. 
It  is  a  slender  annual,  3-4  inches  high,  with  the  radical  leaves  in 
rosulate  clusters,  and  more  dilated  at  the  extremity  than  in  M. 
Oregana.  The  flowers  also  are  much  larger.  The  torus,  which  is  like 
that  of  Eschschotzia,  is  very  distinct. 

Arctomecon.  Torr.  and  Frem. — n.  gen. 

Calyx  of  3  smooth  imbricated  caducous  sepals.  Petals  4,  obovate, 
regular.  Stamens  numerous;  anthers  oblong-linear:  the  cells  opening 


195.  Mohave  stinkweed.  Type  undoubtedly  from  the  Mojave  Desert,  cer- 
tainly not  collected  on  the  "American  fork  of  the  Sacramento  River."  Torrey 
again  correctly  interpreted  genus  from  incomplete  material. 

196.  JCF's  discovery  of  this  spectacular  genus  growing  in  the  wastes  of  the 
Amargosa  reminds  the  botanist  of  Bartram's  chancing  upon  the  highly  lo- 
calized Fran}{linia  on  the  banks  of  the  Altamaha  River  of  Georgia. 

759 


longitudinally.  Ovary  obovoid,  composed  of  6  carpels,  with  as  many 
narrow  intervalvular  placentae:  styles  none:  stigmas  coalescing  into  a 
small  hemispherical  6-angled  sessile  head,  the  angles  of  which  are 
opposite  the  placentae,  not  forming  a  projecting  disk.  Capsule  (im- 
mature) ovoid,  the  placentae  almost  filiform,  opening  at  the  summit 
by  6  valves,  which  separate  from  the  persistent  placentae.  Seeds  ob- 
long, smooth,  strophiolate. — A  perennial  herb,  with  a  thick  woody 
root.  Leaves  numerous,  mostly  crowded  about  the  root,  flabelliform- 
cuneate,  densely  clothed  with  long  gray  upwardly  barbellate  hairs, 
3-5  lobed  at  the  summit;  the  lobes  with  2-3  teeth,  which  are  tipped 
with  a  rigid  pungent  upwardly  scabrous  bristle.  Stem  scape-like, 
about  a  foot  high,  furnished  about  the  middle  with  one  or  two  small 
bract-like  leaves,  smooth  above,  rough  towards  the  base.  Flowers  in 
a  loose,  somewhat  umbellate,  simple  or  somewhat  compound  pan- 
icle; the  peduncles  elongated,  erect.  Petals  about  an  inch  long, 
yellow. 


Arctomecon  Californicum.  Torr.  and  Frem 


197 


This  remarkable  plant  was  found  in  only  a  single  station  in  the 
Californian  mountains,  on  the  banks  of  a  creek;  flowering  early  in 
May.  The  soil  was  sterile  and  gravelly.  Although  very  near  Papaver, 
it  differs  so  much  in  habit  and  in  the  strophiolate  seeds,  as  well  as  in 
other  characters,  that  it  must  be  a  distinct  genus. 

Kramerta. 

A  shrubby  species  of  this  genus  was  found  on  the  Virgen  river,  in 
California.  It  seems  to  be  K.  parvifolia  of  Bentham,  described  in  the 
voyage  of  the  Sulphur.  His  plant,  however,  was  only  in  fruit,  while 
our  specimens  are  only  in  flower.  Ours  grows  in  thick  bunches  1-2 
feet  high,  of  a  gray  aspect,  with  numerous  very  straggling  and  some- 
what spinescent  branches.  Leaves  scarcely  one-third  of  an  inch  long, 
obovate-spatulate.  The  flowers  are  scarcely  more  than  half  as  large  as 
in  K.  lanceolata.  Sepals  5,  unequal ;  claws  of  the  3  upper  petals  united 
into  a  column  below;  lamina  more  or  less  ovate;  the  two  lower  petals 
short  and  truncate.  Stamens  shorter  than  the  upper  petals;  the  fila- 
ments united  at  the  base  with  the  column  of  the  petals:  anthers  one- 


197.  Arctomecon  calijornica  Torr.  &  Frem.  Localized  endemic  poppy  yet  to 
be  found  in  California,  despite  its  specific  name. 

760 


Prosopis  odorata 
761 


celled,  with  a  membranaceous  summit,  the  orifice  of  which  is 
somewhat  dilated,  and  finally  lacerated.  Ovary  hairy  and  spinulose; 
style  rigid,  declined. 

OxYSTYLis.  Torr.  and  Frem. — n.  gen. 

Sepals  linear;  petals  ovate,  somewhat  unguiculate;  ovary  2-celled; 
the  cells  subglobose,  each  with  two  ovules:  style  pyramidal,  much 
larger  than  the  ovary.  Silicle  didymous:  the  carpels  obovoid-globose, 
one-seeded,  (or  rarely  two-seeded,)  indehiscent,  separating  from  the 
base  of  the  persistent  subulate  spinescent  style:  pericarp  crustaceo- 
coriaceous.  Seed  ovate,  somewhat  compressed;  testa  membranaceous, 
the  lining  much  thickened  and  fleshy.  Cotyledons  incumbent,  linear- 
oblong;  radicle  opposite  the  placentae. — A  smooth  annual  herb. 
Leaves  ternately  parted,  on  long  petioles;  the  leaflets  ovate  or  oblong, 
entire  petiolulate.  Flowers  in  numerous  axillary  crowded  short  capi- 
tate racemes,  small  and  yellow. 

OxYSTYLis  LUTEA.  ToTv.  and  Frem. 

On  the  Margoza  river,  at  the  foot  of  a  sandy  hill ;  only  seen  in  one 
place,  but  abundant  there.  The  specimens  were  collected  on  the  28th 
of  April,  and  were  in  both  flower  and  fruit. 

A  rather  stout  plant;  the  stem  erect,  a  foot  or  15  inches  high,  sim- 
ple or  a  little  branching  below,  leafy.  Leaflets  1-1 1  inch  long,  obtuse. 
Heads  of  flowers  about  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  not  elongating  in 
fruit.  Calyx  shorter  than  the  corolla;  the  sepals  acute,  yellowish, 
tipped  with  orange.  Petals  about  two  lines  long.  Fruit  consisting  of 
two  roundish  indehiscent  carpels,  which  at  maturity  separate  by  a 
small  base,  leaving  the  indurated  pointed  style.  The  epicarp  is  thin, 
membranaceous,  and  slightly  corrugated. 

This  remarkable  plant  seems  to  connect  Cruciferae  with  Cappari- 
daceae.  The  clusters  of  old  flower  stalks,  with  their  numerous 
crowded  spinescent  styles,  present  a  singular  appearance. 

Thamnosma.  Torr.  and  Frem. — n.  gen. 

Flowers  hermaphrodite,  (or  polygamous?)  Calyx  4-cleft.  Corolla 
4-petalled,  much  longer  than  the  calyx;  the  aestivation  valvate.  Sta- 
mens 8,  in  a  double  series,  all  fertile.  Ovaries  2,  sessile  and  connate  at 
the  summit  of  a  stipe,  each  with  5  or  6  ovules  in  2  series;  styles  united 

762 


into  one;  stigma  capitate.  Capsules  2,  sessile  at  the  summit  of  the 
stipe,  subglobose,  united  below,  (one  of  them  sometimes  abortive,) 
coriaceous,  1-3-seeded.  Seeds  curved,  with  a  short  beak,  black  and 
minutely  wrinkled ;  the  radicle  inferior.  Embryo  curved ;  cotyledons 
broadly  linear,  incumbent. 

Thamnosma  MONTANA.  Tovv.  and  V rem. 

A  shrub  of  the  height  of  one  or  two  feet,  branching  from  the  base, 
with  simple,  very  small  linear  wedge-shaped  leaves.  The  flowers  are 
apparently  dark  purple,  in  loose  terminal  clusters.  The  whole  plant 
has  a  strong  aromatic  odor,  and  every  part  of  it  is  covered  with  little 
glandular  dots.  Although  nearly  allied  to  Xanthoxylum,  we  regard  it 
as  a  peculiar  genus.  It  grows  in  the  passes  of  the  mountains,  and  on 
the  Virgen  river  in  Northern  California.  The  greater  part  of  it  was 
already  in  fruit  in  the  month  of  May. 


Prosopis  odorata.  Torr.  and  Frem 


198 


Branches  and  leaves  smooth;  spines  stout,  mostly  in  pairs,  straight; 
pinnae  a  single  pair;  leaflets  6-8  pairs,  oblong-linear,  slightly  falcate, 
somewhat  coriaceous,  rather  obtuse;  spikes  elongated,  on  short  pe- 
duncles; corolla  three  times  as  long  as  the  calyx;  stamens  exserted; 
legume  spirally  twisted  into  a  compact  cylinder. 

A  tree  about  20  feet  high,  with  a  very  broad  full  head,  and  the 
lower  branches  declining  to  the  ground ;  the  thorns  sometimes  more 
than  an  inch  long.  Leaves  smooth;  the  common  petiole  1-2  inches 
long,  and  terminated  by  a  spinescent  point;  leaflets  from  half  an  inch 
to  an  inch  long,  and  1-2  lines  broad,  somewhat  coriaceous,  sparingly 
but  prominently  veined  underneath.  Spikes  2-4  inches  long,  and 
about  one-third  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  Flowers  yellow,  very  fra- 
grant, nearly  sessile  on  the  rachis.  Calyx  campanulate,  somewhat 
equally  5-toothed,  smooth.  Petals  ovate-oblong,  hairy  inside.  Stamens 
10,  one-third  longer  than  the  corolla.  Anthers  tipped  with  a  slightly 
stipitate  gland.  Ovary  linear-oblong,  villous;  style  smooth;  stigma 
capitate,  concave  at  the  extremity.  Legumes  clustered,  spirally  twisted 


198.  Prosopis  julifiora  var.  torreyana  L.  Benson.  JCF  mistakenly  mixed  the 
leaves  of  common  mesquite  and  legumes  of  screwpod  mesquite,  leading  Tor- 
rey  to  propose  a  binomial  which  has  had  to  be  abandoned. 


into  a  very  close  rigid  cylinder,  which  is  from  an  inch  to  an  inch  and 
a  half  long,  and  about  two  lines  in  diameter,  forming  from  ten  to 
thirteen  turns,  many  seeded.  Sarcocarp  pulpy;  the  two  opposite  sides 
of  the  firm  endocarp  are  compressed  together  between  the  seeds, 
forming  a  longitudinal  kind  of  septum,  which  divides  the  pulp  into 
two  parts.  Seeds  ovate,  kidney-form,  compressed,  very  smooth  and 
hard.  Embryo  yellowish,  surrounded  with  a  thin  albumen. 

A  characteristic  tree  in  the  mountainous  part  of  Northern  Cali- 
fornia, particularly  along  the  Mohahve  and  Virgen  rivers,  flowering 
the  latter  part  of  April. 

This  species  belongs  to  the  section  strombocarpa  of  Mr.  Bentham,* 
which  includes  the  Acacia  strombulifera  of  Wildenow.  In  the  struc- 
ture of  the  pod  it  is  so  remarkable  that  we  at  one  time  regarded  it  as 
a  distinct  genus,  to  which  we  gave  the  name  of  Spirolobium. 

There  are  numerous  other  Leguminosae  in  the  collection,  includ- 
ing, as  might  be  expected,  many  species  of  Lupinus,  Astragalus,  Oxy- 
tropis,  and  Phaca,  some  of  which  are  new;  also,  Thermopsis  rhombi- 
folia  and  montana,  and  a  beautiful  shrubby  Psoralea  (or  some  allied 
genus)  covered  with  bright  violet  flowers. 


COWANIA  PLICATA.  D.  Dotl.  (  .?) 


199 


Specimens  of  this  plant,  without  a  ticket,  were  in  the  collection; 
doubtless  obtained  in  California.  It  may  prove  to  be  a  distinct  species 
from  the  Mexican  plant,  for  the  leaves  are  more  divided  than  they 
are  described  by  Don,  and  the  flowers  are  smaller.  The  genus  Co- 
wania  is  very  nearly  allied  to  Cercocarpus  and  Purshia,  notwithstand- 
ing its  numerous  ovaries.  The  lobes  of  the  calyx  are  imbricated,  as  in 
those  genera,  and  not  valvate,  as  in  Eudryadece,  to  which  section  it  is 
referred  by  Endlicher. 

Purshia  tridentata  formed  a  conspicuous  object  in  several  parts  of 
the  route,  not  only  east  of  the  mountains,  but  in  Oregon  and  Cali- 
fornia. It  is  covered  with  a  profusion  of  yellow  flowers,  and  is  quite 
ornamental.  Sometimes  it  attains  the  height  of  twelve  feet. 

*  In  Hooker's  Journal  of  Botany,  iv,  p.  351. 


199.  This  might  possibly  have  been  what  Torrey  later  described  as  Emplec- 
tocladus  jasciculatus.  When  he  published  this  name  in  Plantae  Fretnontiance 
(1853),  he  stated  that  the  label  of  origin  had  been  lost. 


764 


Spircea  ariafolia,  var.  discolor,  was  found  on  the  upper  waters  of 
the  Platte,  holding  its  characters  so  well  that  it  should  perhaps  be 
regarded  as  a  distinct  species. 

CEnothera  cLAVitFORMis.  Tovv.  and  Frem. 

Leaves  ovate  or  oblong,  denticulate  or  toothed,  pinnatified  at  the 
base,  with  a  long  naked  petiole;  scape  with  several  small  leaves,  8-12- 
flowered;  segments  of  the  calyx  longer  than  the  tube;  capsules 
clavate-cylindrical,  nearly  twice  as  long  as  the  pedicel.  Flowers  about 
as  large  as  in  CE.  pumila.  Grows  with  the  preceding. 

This  new  species  belongs  to  the  section  Chylismia  of  Nutt.  (Torr. 
and  Gr.  FL  N.  Am.  1,  p.  506.) 

CEnothera  deltoides.  Torr.  and  Frem. 

Annual:  canescently  strigose;  stem  low  and  stout;  leaves  rhombi- 
covate,  repandly  denticulate,  acute;  flowers  (large)  clustered  at  the 
summit  of  the  short  stem;  tube  of  the  calyx  nearly  twice  the  length  of 
the  segments:  petals  entire,  one-third  longer  than  the  slightly  de- 
clined stamens;  anthers  very  long,  fixed  by  the  middle;  style  ex- 
serted;  capsules  prismatic-cylindrical. 

Allied  to  (E.  famesii,  Torr.  and  Gr.,  and  belongs,  like  that  species, 
to  the  section  Eucenothera  and  sub-section  Onagra. 

CEnothera  canescens.  Torr.  and  Frem. 

Strigosely  canescent;  leaves  narrowly  lanceolate,  rather  obtuse, 
remotely  denticulate;  flowers  in  a  leafy  raceme;  tube  of  the  calyx 
rather  slender,  three  times  as  long  as  the  ovary,  and  one  third  longer 
than  the  segments;  petals  broadly  ovate,  entire. 

This  species  was  collected  (we  believe)  on  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Platte.  It  belongs  to  the  section  Eucenothera,  and  to  a  sub-section 
which  may  be  called  Gauropsis,  and  characterized  as  follows:  Peren- 
nial diffuse  herbs;  tube  of  the  calyx  linear;  capsule  obovate,  sessile, 
with  4-winged  angles  and  no  intermediate  ribs,  tardily  opening; 
seeds  numerous,  horizontal;  the  testa  membranaceous;  leaves  opaque. 

Besides  these  new  species,  many  other  CEnothera  were  collected; 


765 


among  which  may  be  mentioned  (E.  albicaulis,  alyssoides,  montana, 
and  Missouriensis.  Also,  Gayophytum  di^usum,  (from  the  Snake 
country,  growing  about  2  feet  high,)  Stenosiphon  virgatum,  and 
Gaura  coccinea. 

CoMPOSITiE. 

The  plants  of  this  family  were  placed  in  the  hands  of  Dr.  Gray  for 
examination;  and  he  has  described  some  of  them  (including  four 
new  genera)  in  the  Boston  Journal  of  Natural  History  for  January, 
1845.  He  has  since  ascertained  another  new  genus  among  the  speci- 
mens ;  and  we  fully  concur  with  him  in  the  propriety  of  dedicating  it 
to  the  late  distinguished  J.  N.  Nicollet,  Esq.,  who  spent  several  years 
in  exploring  the  country  watered  by  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri 
rivers,  and  who  was  employed  by  the  United  States  Government  in 
a  survey  of  the  region  lying  between  the  sources  of  those  rivers.  This 
gentleman  exerted  himself  to  make  known  the  botany  of  the  coun- 
try which  he  explored,  and  brought  home  with  him  an  interesting 
collection  of  plants,  made  under  his  direction,  by  Mr.  Charles  Geyer, 
of  which  an  account  is  given  in  the  report  of  Mr.  N.  The  following  is 
the  description  of  this  genus  by  Dr.  Gray: 

NicoLLETiA.  Gray. 

"Heads  heterogamous,  with  few  rays,  many  flowered.  Involucre 
campanulate,  consisting  of  about  8  oval  membranaceous  scales  in 
a  single  series;  the  base  calyculate,  with  one  or  two  smaller  scales. 
Receptacle  convex,  alveolate.  Corolla  of  the  disk  flowers  equally  5- 
toothed.  Branches  of  the  style  terminated  by  a  subulate  hisped  ap- 
pendage. Achenia  elongated,  slender,  canescently  pubescent.  Pappus 
double,  scarcely  shorter  than  the  corolla;  the  exterior  of  numerous 
scabrous,  unequal  bristles;  the  inner  of  5  linear-lanceolate  chaffy 
scales,  which  are  entire,  or  2-toothed  at  the  summit,  and  furnished 
with  a  strong  central  nerve,  which  is  produced  into  a  short  scabrous 
awn. — A  humble,  branching  (and  apparently  annual)  herb.  Leaves 
alternate,  pinnatified,  and  somewhat  fleshy,  (destitute  of  glands?); 
the  lobes  and  rachis  linear.  Heads  terminal,  solitary,  nearly  sessile, 
large,  (about  an  inch  long,)  with  one  or  two  involucrate  leaves  at 
the  base.  Corolla  yellow." 


766 


VyV'/'^ 


Arctomecon  californica 
767 


NicoLLETiA  occiDENTALis.  Gray.^^^ 

On  the  banks  of  the  Mohahve  river,  growing  in  the  naked  sands; 
flowering  in  April.  The  plant  has  a  powerful  and  rather  agreeable 
odor.  This  interesting  genus  (which  is  described  from  imperfect  ma- 
terials) belongs  to  the  tribe  Senecionide^,  and  the  sub-tribe  Tagiti- 
NEiE.  It  has  the  habit  of  Dissodia,  and  exhibits  both  the  chaffy  pappus 
of  the  division  TagetecE,  and  the  pappus  pilosus  of  Porophyllum* — 
Gray. 

Franseria  dumosa.  Gray. 

Shrubby,  much  branched;  leaves  pinnatified,  canescent  on  both 
sides,  as  are  the  branchlets;  the  divisions  3-7,  oval,  entire,  and  some- 
what lobed;  heads  rather  loosely  spiked;  involucre  of  the  sterile 
flowers  5-7  cleft,  strigosely  canescent;  of  the  fertile,  ovoid,  2-celled, 
2-flowered. 

A  shrub,  1-2  feet  high,  with  divaricate  rigid  branches.  Leaves 
scarcely  an  inch  long.  Fertile  (immature)  involucre  clothed  with 
straight  soft  lanceolate  subulate  prickles,  which  are  short  and  scale- 
like. 

On  the  sandy  uplands  of  the  Mohahve  river,  and  very  common  in 
all  that  region  of  North  California.  Flowering  in  April. 

Amsonia  tomentosa.  Torr.  and  Frem. 

SufTrutescent ;  clothed  with  a  dense  whitish  pubescence;  leaves 
lanceolate  and  ovate-lanceolate,  acute  at  each  end;  segments  of  the 
calyx  lanceolate-subulate;  corolla  slightly  hairy  externally. 

Stems  numerous,  erect,  12  to  18  inches  high,  woody,  below  simple 
or  branching.  Leaves  alternate;  the  lowest  small  and  spatulate,  or  re- 
duced to  scales;  the  others  about  2  inches  long,  and  varying  from  4 
to  8  lines  in  breadth;  entire,  acuminate  at  the  base.  Flowers  in  rather 
dense,  somewhat  fastigiate  terminal  clusters,  nearly  three-fourths  of 

*  It  should  be  stated  here,  that  the  notice  of  this  genus  by  Dr.  Gray  was 
drawn  up  in  Latin;  but  we  have  given  it  in  English,  that  it  may  be  uniform 
with  our  own  description. 


200.  Nicolletia  occidentalis  Gray,  named,  of  course,  for  JCF's  former  men- 
tor. Two  other  deserticolous  genera  based  on  JCF  collections,  Monoptilon  and 
Amphipappus,  were  described  at  the  same  time  by  Asa  Gray. 

768 


an  inch  long.  Calyx  about  one-third  the  length  of  the  corolla,  5- 
parted  to  the  base;  the  segments  narrow  and  hairy.  Corolla  with  the 
tube  ventricose  above;  the  segments  ovate-oblong.  Stamens  included; 
filaments  short;  anthers  ovate-sagittate.  Ovaries  oblong,  united  be- 
low, distinct  above,  smooth;  style  slender;  stigma  capitate,  with  a 
membranaceous  collar  at  the  base. 

The  specimens  of  this  plant  were  without  tickets;  but  they  were 
probably  collected  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  They  were  with- 
out fruit. 

AscLEPiAs  sPEciosA.  Tovr.  in  Ann.  Lye.  New  York,,  u,  p-  218. 

This  (as  was  stated  in  the  first  report)  is  A.  Douglasii  of  Hooker, 
well  figured  in  his  Flora  Boreali  Americana,  2,  t.  142.  It  has  a  wide 
range,  being  found  on  both  sides  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  from 
the  sources  of  the  St.  Peter's  to  those  of  the  Kansas  and  Canadian. 
The  fruit  was  collected  from  specimens  on  the  banks  of  the  Snake 
river.  It  is  almost  exactly  like  that  of  A.  Cornuti,  being  inflated, 
woolly,  and  covered  with  soft  spines. 

AcERATES  LATiFOLiA.  Tovr.  uud  FrSm. 

Stem  simple,  erect,  smooth;  leaves  roundish-ovate,  nearly  sessile, 
obtuse,  with  a  small  mucro,  smooth  on  both  sides;  umbel  solitary,  on 
a  terminal  peduncle,  few-flowered;  pedicels  slender;  segments  of  the 
corolla  ovate-lanceolate ;  lobes  of  the  crown  semilunar-ovate,  as  long 
as  the  column,  rather  obtuse,  cucullate. 

On  Green  river,  a  tributary  of  the  Colorado  of  the  West;  June. 
About  a  span  high.  Leaves  about  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  and  more 
than  an  inch  wide.  Flowers  few,  very  large,  apparently  yellowish. 
Fruit  not  seen. 


Eriogonum  inflatum.  Ton.  and  Frem 


201 


Smooth,  bi-trichotomous;  the  lower  part,  and  sometimes  the  two 
primary  divisions  of  the  stem,  much  inflated  and  calvate;  peduncles 


201.  Seven  Eriogonum  spedes  were  described  by  Torrey  and  by  Bentham, 
based  in  whole  or  part  on  JCF's  collections.  Either  JCF  paid  special  attention 
to  an  inconspicuous  plant  group,  or  Torrey  solicited  his  collecting  a  favorite 
genus. 

769 


divaricately  branched,  the  ultimate  divisions  filiform  and  solitary; 
involucre  few-flowered,  smooth ;  the  teeth  equal,  erect. 

The  specimens  of  this  plant  are  imperfect,  being  destitute  of  leaves, 
which  are  probably  wholly  radical.  It  is  a  foot  or  more  high.  The 
first  joint  of  the  stem,  or  rather  scape,  is  remarkably  dilated  and  fistu- 
lar  upward.  This  divides  into  three  or  more  branches,  the  two  primary 
ones  of  which  are  sometimes  inflated  like  the  first;  the  subdivi- 
sions are  dichotomous,  with  a  pedicellate  involucre  in  each  fork.  The 
involucres  are  about  a  line  in  diameter,  smooth,  5-6-flowered ;  and,  in 
all  the  specimens  that  I  examined,  only  5-toothed.  The  plant  was 
found  on  barren  hills  in  the  lower  part  of  North  California. 

Eriogonum  reniforme.  Torr.  and  Frem. 

Annual ;  leaves  radical,  on  long  petioles,  reniform,  clothed  with  a 
dense  hoary  tomentum;  stem  scape-like  naked,  3-forked  from  the 
base,  glaucous,  and  nearly  smooth;  the  divisions  divaricately  2-3- 
forked;  involucres  2-A  together,  on  slender  peduncles,  smooth,  cam- 
panulate,  5-toothed,  the  teeth  nearly  equal,  obtuse;  perigonium 
smooth. 

On  the  Sacramento  river;  March.  Allied  to  E.  vimineum  of  Ben- 
tham.  A  small  species,  with  very  minute  flowers. 

Eriogonum  cord  alum.  Torr.  and  Frem. 

Annual;  leaves  all  radical,  on  long  petioles,  roundish-ovate,  cor- 
date, very  obtuse,  slightly  pubescent  above,  hairy  underneath;  scape 
naked,  slender,  smooth  and  glaneous,  divaricately  branched,  the 
divisions  slender;  involucres  solitary,  on  filiform  peduncles,  cam- 
panulate,  smooth,  5-toothed,  the  teeth  nearly  equal,  rather  obtuse; 
perigonium  hairy. 

With  the  preceding,  from  which  it  is  easily  distinguished  by  the 
form  of  its  leaves  and  color  of  the  pubescence. 

Many  other  species  of  this  genus  were  collected  in  California  and 
the  Snake  country,  some  of  which  are  probably  new,  and  will  be 
described  in  the  next  report. 

Fremontia  vermicularis.  Torr.  in  Frem.  \st  report. 

This  curious  plant  is  always  found  in  saline  soils,  or  where  the 
atmosphere  is  saline.  Its  greatest  height  is  eight  feet.  It  is  a  char- 

770 


Fremontia  vermicularis 


771 


acteristic  feature  of  the  vegetation  throughout  a  great  part  of  Oregon 
and  North  CaHfornia.  About  Brown's  Hole,  on  Green  river,  it  oc- 
cupies almost  exclusively  the  bottoms  of  the  neighboring  streams.  It 
is  abundant  also  on  the  shores  of  a  salt  lake  in  lat.  38°  and  long. 
113°;  and  constantly  occurs  in  the  desert  region  south  of  the  Colum- 
bia, and  between  the  Cascade  range  and  the  Rocky  mountains,  as  far 
south  as  lat.  34°.  The  branches,  when  old,  become  spiny,  as  in  many 
other  plants  of  this  family. 

Since  the  description  of  this  genus  was  published  in  the  first  report, 
(March,  1843,)  Nees  has  given  it  the  name  of  Sarcobatus;  and  Dr. 
Seubert  has  published  an  account  of  it,  with  a  figure,  in  the  Botani- 
sche  Zeitung  for  1844.  This  we  have  not  yet  seen;  but,  from  the  re- 
marks of  Dr.  Lindley,  who  has  given  a  note  on  the  genus  in  Hooker's 
Journal  of  Botany  for  January,  1845,  it  would  seem  that  some  doubt 
existed  among  European  botanists  as  to  its  affinities,  as  they  had  not 
seen  the  ripe  seeds.  These  we  have  long  possessed,  and  unhesitatingly 
referred  it  to  Chenopodiaciae.  We  regret  that  our  sketches  of  the  stam- 
inate  flowers  were  mislaid  when  the  artist  was  engraving  the  figure. 

Obione  confertifglta.  Torr.  and  Frem. 

Stem  pubescent,  much  branched,  erect;  leaves  alternate,  ovate, 
rather  obtuse,  petiolate,  much  crowded,  entire,  somewhat  coriaceous, 
white  with  a  mealy  crust ;  bracts  broadly  ovate,  obtuse,  entire,  and  the 
sides  without  appendages  or  tubercles. 

A  small  shrub,  with  rigid  crooked  and  somewhat  spinescent 
branches,  and  of  a  whitish  aspect.  Leaves  varying  from  one-third  to 
half  an  inch  in  length,  abruptly  narrowed  at  the  base  into  a  petiole, 
thickly  clothed  with  a  white  mealy  substance. 

Flowers  apparently  dioecious.  Sterile  not  seen.  Bracts  of  the  fruit 
3-4  lines  long,  united  about  half  way  up,  distinct  above,  indurated  at 
the  base.  Styles  distinct.  Pericarp  very  thin.  Seed  roundish  ovate,  ros- 
tellate  upward;  the  testa  coriaceous.  Embryo  two-thirds  of  a  circle. 

On  the  borders  of  the  Great  Salt  lake.  From  the  description  of  0. 
coriacea,  Moq.,  our  plant  seems  to  be  a  near  ally  of  that  species. 

Pterochiton.  Torr.  and  Frem. — n.  gen. 

Flowers  dioecious.  Staminate  ....  Pistillate.  Perigonium  ovoid- 
tubular,  4-winged,  2-toothed  at  the  summit.  Ovary  roundish;  style 

772 


short;  stigmas  2,  linear.  Ovule  solitary,  ascending  from  the  base  of 
the  ovary,  campulitropous.  Fructiferous  perianth  indurated,  broadly 
4-winged,  closed,  minutely  2-toothed  at  the  summit;  the  wings 
veined  and  irregularly  toothed.  Utricle  very  thin  and  membrana- 
ceous, free.  Seed  ovate,  somewhat  compressed ;  the  podosperm  lateral 
and  very  distinct,  rostrate  upward.  Integument  double,  the  exterior 
somewhat  coriaceous,  brownish,  the  inner  one  thin.  Embryo  nearly  a 
circle,  surrounding  copious  mealy  albumen. 

Pterochiton  occidentale.  Torr.  and  Frem. 

An  unarmed  shrub,  1-2  feet  high,  with  numerous  slender 
branches,  which  are  clothed  with  a  grayish  nearly  smooth  bark. 
Leaves  alternate  or  fasciculate,  linear  oblanceolate,  narrowed  at  the 
base,  flat,  entire,  covered  with  a  whitish  mealy  crust,  flowers  some- 
what racemose,  on  short,  pedicels.  Fructiferous  calyx,  with  the  wings 
2-3  lines  wide,  semi-orbicular,  coriaceo-membranaceous,  mealy  like 
the  leaves,  strongly  veined;  the  margin  more  or  less  toothed.  Utricle 
free  from  the  indurated  cavity  of  the  perianth,  extremely  thin  and 
transparent.  Seed  conformed  to  the  utricle,  the  conspicuous  podo- 
sperm passing  along  its  side;  the  beak  pointing  obliquely  upward. 

This  is  one  of  the  numerous  shrubby  plants  of  the  Chenopodiace- 
ous  family,  that  constitute  a  large  part  of  the  vegetation  in  the  saline 
soils  of  the  west.  The  precise  locality  of  this  plant  we  cannot  indi- 
cate, as  the  label  was  illegible;  but  it  was  probably  from  the  borders 
of  the  Great  Salt  lake.  It  is  allied  to  Grayia  of  Hooker  and  Arnott,  a 
shrub  of  the  same  family,  which  was  found  in  several  places  on  both 
sides  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  often  in  great  abundance. 

PiNus  MONOPHYLLUS.  Tovr.  and  Frem.  {The  nut  pine.) 

Leaves  solitary,  or  very  rarely  in  pairs,  with  scarcely  any  sheaths, 
stout  and  rigid,  somewhat  pungent;  cones  ovoid,  the  scales  with  a 
thick  obtusely  pyramidal  and  protuberant  summit,  unarmed;  seeds 
large,  without  a  wing. 

A  tree  with  verticillate  branches  and  cylindrical-clavate  buds, 
which  are  about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  in  length.  The  leaves  are 
from  an  inch  to  two  and  a  half  inches  long:  often  more  or  less 
curved,  scattered,  very  stout,  terete,  (except  in  the  very  rare  case  of 
their  being  in  pairs,  when  they  are  semi-cylindrical,)  ending  in  a 

773 


spiny  tip.  Cones  about  2\  inches  long,  and  1|  inch  broad  in  the  wid- 
est part.  The  scales  are  of  a  light-brown  color,  thick;  the  summit  ob- 
tusely pyramidal  and  somewhat  recurved,  but  without  any  point. 
The  seeds  are  oblong,  about  half  an  inch  long,  without  a  wing;  or 
rather  the  wing  is  indissolubly  adherent  to  the  scale.  The  kernel  is 
of  a  very  pleasant  flavor,  resembling  that  of  Pinus  Pembra. 

This  tree,  which  is  remarkable  among  the  true  pines  for  its  soli- 
tary leaves,  is  extensively  diffused  over  the  mountains  of  Northern 
California,  from  long.  111°  to  120°,  and  through  a  considerable 
range  of  latitude.  It  is  alluded  to  repeatedly,  in  the  course  of  the 
narrative,  as  the  nut  pine. 

The  Coniferae  of  the  collection  were  numerous,  and  suffered  less 
than  most  of  the  other  plants.  Some  of  them  do  not  appear  to  have 
been  hitherto  described.  There  was  also  an  Ephedra,  which  does  not 
differ  essentially  from  E.  occidentalis ,  found  in  great  plenty  on  the 
sandy  uplands  of  the  Mohahve  river. 

Description  of  the  plates. 

Plate  1.  Arctomecon  Californicum.  F/^.  1,  a  stamen,  magnified; 
fig.  2,  an  ovule,  mag.;  fig.  3,  capsule,  nat.  size;  fig.  3,  («,)  stigma, 
mag.;  fig.  4,  the  same  cut  horizontally,  showing  the  sutures;  fig.  5, 
a  seed,  mag.;  fig.  6,  portion  of  a  hair  from  the  leaf,  mag.;  fig.  7,  bristle 
from  the  extremity  of  a  leaf  lobe,  mag.;  figs.  8  and  9,  leaves,  nat. 
size. 

Plate  2.  Prosopis  odorata.  Fig.  1,  a  flower,  mag.;  fig.  2,  pistil, 
mag.;  fig.  3,  cluster  of  ripe  legumes,  nat.  size. 

Plate  3.  Fremontia  vermicularis.  Fig.  1,  a  very  young  fertile 
flower,  mag.;  fig.  2,  an  ovule,  mag.;  fig.  3,  a  fertile  flower  more  ad- 
vanced, mag.;  fig.  4,  a  fertile  flower  at  maturity,  showing  the  broad- 
winged  border  of  the  calyx,  mag.;  fig.  5,  the  same  cut  vertically;  fig. 
6,  the  same  cut  horizontally;  fig.  7,  a  seed,  mag.;  fig.  8,  embryo, 
mag. 

Plate  4.  Pinus  monophyllus.  Fig.  1,  a  bud,  nat.  size;  figs.  2,  3,  4, 
and  5,  leaves,  nat.  size;  fig.  2,  (a,)  section  of  a  single  leaf;  fig.  5,  (a,) 
section  of  a  pair  of  leaves ;  fig.  6,  a  cone,  nat.  size;  fig.  7,  a  scale,  as 
seen  from  the  outside;  fig.  8,  inside  view  of  the  same. 


202.  An  error  for  Pinus  cembra,  an  ally  of  P.  monophylla  Torr.  &  Frem. 

774 


2/a)® 


odij 


Pinus  monophyllus 
775 


ASTRONOMICAL  OBSERVATIONS 


203 


The  map  which  accompanies  this  report  is  constructed  upon 
Flamsteed's  modified  projection,  on  a  scale  of  1  :  2,000,000,  and  based 
upon  the  astronomical  observations  made  during  the  campaigns 
of  1842  and  1843-44.  The  longitudes  are  referred  to  the  meridian  of 
Greenwich,  and  depend  upon  eighteen  principal  stations;  four  of 
which  are  determined  by  occulations  of  fixed  stars,  and  the  remain- 
ing fourteen  by  eclipses  of  the  satellites  of  Jupiter.  All  the  longitudes 
on  the  map  have  been  chronometrically  referred  to  these  positions. 

In  the  course  of  the  last  exploration,  it  became  evident  that  the 
longitudes  established  during  the  campaign  of  1842  were  collectively 
thrown  too  far  to  the  westward,  by  the  occultation  of  a^  Arietis,  to 
which  they  had  been  referred  by  the  chronometer.  This  occultation 
took  place  at  the  bright  limb  of  the  moon,  which  experience  has  re- 
cently shown  to  be  deserving  of  little  comparative  confidence.  This 
position  has  therefore  been  abandoned,  and  the  longitudes  depend- 
ing upon  it  have  been  referred  chronometrically  to  those  established 
in  1843  and  1844.  The  course  of  the  ensuing  expedition  will  inter- 
sect the  line  established  by  our  previous  operations,  at  various  points, 
which  it  is  proposed  to  correct  in  longitude  by  lunar  culminations, 
and  such  other  absolute  observations  as  may  be  conveniently  ob- 
tained. Such  a  position  at  the  mouth  of  the  Fontaine-qui-bouit,  on 
the  Arkansas  river,  will  be  a  good  point  of  reference  for  the  longi- 
tudes along  the  foot  of  the  mountains.  In  passing  by  the  Utah,  to 
the  southern  portion  of  the  Great  Salt  lake,  we  shall  have  an  oppor- 
tunity to  verify  our  longitudes  in  that  quarter;  and  as  in  the  course 
of  our  exploration  we  shall  touch  upon  several  points  previously  de- 
termined along  the  western  limit  of  our  recent  journey,  we  shall 
probably  be  able  to  form  a  reasonably  correct  frame  on  which  to  base 
the  construction  of  a  general  map  of  the  country.  In  that  now  pre- 
sented, we  have  carefully  avoided  to  lay  down  any  thing  as  certain 
which  may  not  be  found  in  the  field  books  of  our  surveys,  which 
were  greatly  facilitated  by  the  character  of  the  country  in  which  we 
were  operating. 


203.  Pages  330-558  of  the  Report,  which  constitute  the  detailed  tables  of 
astronomical  observations  made  during  the  expedition  of  1843-44,  are  not  re- 
printed here. 

776 


To  the  kindness  of  Captain  Wilkes  I  am  indebted  for  the  longi- 
tudes of  Fort  Vancouver  and  Nueva  Helvetia,  which  were  furnished 
to  me  before  the  publication  of  his  map.  Our  reconnoissance  is  con- 
nected with  his  surveys  by  those  positions. 

The  coast  line  of  the  Pacific  is  laid  down  according  to  the  survey 
of  Vancouver;  and  the  bay  of  San  Francisco  is  reduced  from  the 
copy  of  a  manuscript  map  of  a  detailed  survey,  in  the  possession  of 
Mr.  Sutter. 

J.  C.  Fremont. 


777 


Table  of  latitudes  and  longitudes  deduced  from  the  annexed  observations » 


1 

Date. 

Latitudes. 

Longitudes. 

1843. 

May   30 

38" 

49^ 

41" 

94° 

25'  31" 

June    1 

39 

01 

16 

95 

11  09 

4 

39 

11 

17 

95 

56  30 

5 

39 

08 

24 

96 

06  02 

10 

39 

Q3 

38 

96 

24  56 

12 

3^ 

22 

12 

97 

05  32 

15 

39 

32 

54 

98 

11  41 

17 

39 

37 

38 

98 

46  50 

19 

39 

42 

35 

99 

22  03 

22 

39 

53 

59  1 

100 

31   30 

23 

39 

49 

28 

100 

52  00 

25 

40 

05 

08 

101 

39  23 

38 

40 

29 

04 

102 

44  47 

30 

40 

31 

02 

103 

23  29 

July    1 

40 

17 

21 

104 

02  00 

7 

39 

43 

53 

105 

24  .34 

15 

38 

15 

23 

104 

58  30 

18 

38 

52 

10 

105 

22  45 

21 

39 

41 

45 

105 

25  38 

23 

40 

16 

52 

105 

12  23 

30 

41 

02 

19 

105 

35   17 

31 

41 

04 

00 

I 

- 

31 

41 

15 

02 

106 

16  54 

August  1 

41 

23 

08 

- 

n 

41 

45 

59 

- 

2 

41 

37 

16 

106 

47  25 

3 

41 

35 

48 

- 

6 

41 

35 

59 

107 

22  27 

Localities. 


Elm  grove. 

Small  tributary  to  the  I^aiisas. 

Buck  creek,  tributary  of  the  Kansas. 

Elk  creek,  tributary  of  the  Kansas. 

Encampment  on  the  Smoky  Hill  fork,  half  a  mile 

from  ita  junction  with  the  Republican. 
Tributary  to  the  Republican  fork. 

Tributary  to  the  Republican  fork. 

Tributary  to  Solomon's  fork  of  the  Republican. 

Tributary  to  Solomon's  fork  of  the  Republican. 

Tributary  to  Republican  fork. 

Prairie  Dog  river,  Republican  fork. 

Small  tributary  to  the  Republican. 

Encampment  on  a  small  lake  in  the  sandy  plain 
between  the  Republican  and  South  fork  of  the 
Platte  river. 

South  fork  of  the  Platte  river. 

South  fork,  9  miles  above  mouth  df  Beaver  fbrk. 

South  fork,  near  Cheity  creek. 

Junction  of  Arkansas  and  Boiling  Spring  rivers. 

BoiUng  Sj>rings. 

South  fork. 

St.  Vrain's  fort. 

High  prairie,  broken  by  huttes  and  boulders,  with 
scattered  cedars,  forming  dividing  grounds 
between  Laramie  and  Cache  a  la  Poudre 
rivers. 

Near  the  preceding. 

Laramie  river. 

Stream  discharging  into  a  lake. 
Fork  of  Laramie  river. 
Medicine  Bow  river. 
Tributarj-  to  the  North  fork. 
North  fork  of  the  Platte  river. 


Table  of  latitudes  and  longitudes — ^^Continued. 


Date. 


1843. 
August    8 

9 

9 

10 
13 
13 
14 
15 
16 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
21 
22 
24 
24 
25 
29 
30 
31 
2 
3 
7,  12 
8 
9 
10 


Sept 


Latitude^. 


42<'  02'  03" 

42  20  06 

42  31  17 

42  19  53 

42  18  08 

42  16  II 

41  53  5t 

41  46  54 

41  37  38 

41  29  53 

41  36  08 

41  34  24 

41  39  45 

41  53  55 

42  03  47 
42  10  27 
42  29  05 
42  36  56 
42  39  57 
42  07  18 
42  14  ?2 
41  59  31 
41  30  21 
41  30  22 
41  15  50 
41  11  26 
41  10  A% 
41  14  17 


107"  60'    07' 


Localities. 


109  25  55 


110  0&  05 


110  10 
110  25 
no  45 


28 
06 
58 


111   10  53 


111  42 
111   46 


08 
00 


112  15 

112  19 

112  06 

112  11 

112  21 


46 
30 
43 
SO 

05 


High  plateau  between  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic 

and  the  gulf  of  California. 
Gap  in  the  Sweet  Water  mountains. 

Sweet  Water  river. 

Sweet  Water  riVer. 

Near  South  pass,  on  a  small  affluent  to  the  Sandy 

fork  of  Qreen  river. 
Small  stream, '.tributary  to  the  Little  Sandy  river. 

Little  Sandy  river. 

Green  river,  left  bank. 

Green  river,  near  old  trading  post,  at  point  where 

the  road  to  the  Columbia  leaves  the  river. 
Black's  fork  of  Green  river. 

Black's  tork. 

Small  stream,  tributary  to  Ham's  fork. 

Muddy  river  of  Ham's  forb. 

Muddy  river. 

Bear  nver. 

Bear  river. 

Bear  river,  above  Thomas's  fork. 

Tullick's  fork  of  Bear  river 

Bear  river. 

Beer  springs. 

Entrance  of  the  beautiful  pass  with  the  remaik- 

able  rock. 
Branch  of  Roseaux  or  Reed  river. 

Swampy  place,  a  little  distance   from   Roseaoz 

creek. 
Bear  river,  near  the  mouth. 

Mouth  of  Bear  river. 

Weber's  fork. 

Weber's  fork,  very  near  the  month. 

Island  in  the  Great  Salt  lake. 

Halt  in  the  Mud. 


Table  of  latitudes  and  longitudes — Continued. 


Date. 


Latitudes. 


1843. 
Sqpt.   13 

15 

17 

21 
24 
28 
29 
30 
1 


Oct. 


Kov. 


2 

3 

7 

8 

10 

12 

14 

15 

16 

18 

19 

23 

26 

28 

30 

31 

5 

5 

11 

26 


41°  42'  43" 
42  12  57 

42  44  40 

43  01  30 
42  47  05 
42  29  57 
42  26  21 
42  38  44 
42  40  11 
42  53  40 

42  55  58 

43  35  21 
43  40  53 

43  49  22 

44  17  36 
44  37  44 
44  50  32 

44  59  29 

45  20  47 
45  38  07 

45  53  35 

46  03  46 
45  58  08 
45  50  05 
45  44  23 
45  35  55 
45  35  21 
45  33  09 
45  14  24 


Longitudes. 


112«  05'  12" 

112  15  04 

112  29  52 

112  29  54 

112  40  13 

114  06  04 

114  25  04 

114  35  12 

114  53  04 

115  04  46 

115  54  46 

116  22  40 
116  47  03 

116  56  45 

117  09  49 
117  24  21 
117  29  22 
117  28  26 

117  28  34 

118  00  39 


Localitics- 


119  22  18 

119  45  09 

120  55  00 
120  53  51 
122  06  15 


Bear  river,  south  of  the  gap— a  main  station. 

Roscaux  or  Reed  river. 

Pannack  river. 

Fort  Hall. 

Snake  river,  above  the  American  falL-. 

Snake  river. 

Rock  creek,  of  Snake  river. 

Snake  river,  opposite  to  the  River  spring. 

Snake  river,  2  miles  below  Fishing  falls. 

Snake  river. 

Ford  where  road  crosses  the  Snake  river. 

Big  Wood  river,  or  Riviere  Boisoe. 

Big  Wood  river,  or  Riviere  Boisee. 

Fort  Boisee. 

Snake  river,  liclow  Birch  creek. 

Head  water  of  Burnt  river,  (Riviere  Brulee.) 

Old  bed  of  Powder  river. 

Powder  river. 

Grand  Rond. 

Blue  mountains,  east  of  the  summit. 

Walahwalah  river,  foot  of  the  mountains. 

Fort  Ncz  Perce. 

Noon  halt— left  bank  of  the  Columbia. 

Left  bank  of  the  Columbia. 

Left  bank  of  the  Columbia. 

Missionary  station  at  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia. 

Station  on  hills  in  rear  of  the  mission. 

Right  bank  of  the  Columbia,  15  miles  below  the 

cascades. 
La-ge  branch  of  Fall  river,  {Riviere  aux  Chutes.) 


Table  of  latitudes  and  longitudes — Continued. 


Date. 

Latitudes. 

Ijongitudes. 

Localities. 

1843. 
Nov.       27 

45" 

06' 

45" 

121"  02' 

43" 

South  end  of  Taih  prairie. 

30 

44 

3.5 

23 

121      10 

25 

Main  branch  of  Fall  river. 

Dec.         5 

43 

55 

20 

- 

Fall  river,  (Union  Falls.) 

C 

43 

44 

15 

- 

Fall  river,  (Union  falls.) 

7 

43 

30 

36 

121     33 

50 

Fall  river,  (Union  Falls.) 

8 

43 

17 

49 

- 

Camp  in  a  pine  forest. 

10 

42 

56 

51 

- 

Tlamath  lake. 

13 

16 

42 
42 

51 

57 

26 
22 

121     20 

42 

Tributary   to   the  lake   and  head  water   of  the 

Tlamath  river. 
Summer  lake. 

18 

42 

42 

37 

- 

Summer  lake. 

24 

42 

23 

25 

- 

•  Christmas  lake. 

26 

42 

00 

09 

- 

Desert  valley  among  black  rocky  hills- 

29 

41 

27 

50 

- 

Camp  of  the  29th  to  30th. 

31 

41 

19 

55 

- 

New-year's  Eve  camp. 

1844. 
Jan.         3 

40 

48 

15 

— 

Camp  near  the  Mud  lake. 

6 

40 

39 

46 

- 

Camp  near  Great  Boiling  spring. 

15 

39 

51 

13 

- 

Pyramid  lake,  mouth  of  Salmon  Trout  river. 

18 

39 

24 

IG 

- 

Camp  on  a  river  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 

19 

39 

19 

21 

- 

Camp  on  a  river  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 

21 

39 

01 

53 

- 

Camp  on  a  river  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 

22 

38 

49 

54 

- 

Camp  on  a  river,  near  a  gap. 

23 

24 

38 
38 

36 
24 

19 

28 

— 

Camp  on  a  southern  branch  of  stream  of  encamp- 
ment of  22d  to  23d. 
Head  waters  of  a  stream. 

26 

38 

18 

01 

- 

Camp  on  a  large  stream. 

30 
Feb.         5 

38 
38 

37 
42 

18 
26 

— 

Camp  on  the  same  stream  which  we  encamped 
upon  on  the  night  of  the  18th  to  19th  January- 
First  camp  in  the  pass  of  ihe  Sierra  Nevada. 

14,  19 

38 

41 

57 

120     25 

57 

The  Long  camp. 

24 

38 

46 

58 

120     34 

20 

Rio  de  los  Americanos,  (high  in  the  mountain.) 

Mar.  10, 22 

38 

34 

42 

- 

NuEVA  Helvetia. 

Table  of  latitudes  and  longitudes — Continued, 


Date. 


1844. 
March    25 


April 


May 


Latitudes. 


25 

38° 

08' 

23" 

26 

38 

02 

48 

28 

37 

42 

26 

31 

37 

15 

43 

3 

37 

22 

05 

4 

37 

08 

00 

5 

36 

49 

12 

8 

36 

24 

50 

9 

36 

08 

38 

10 

35 

49 

10 

13 

35 

17 

12 

14 

35 

03 

00 

15 

34 

41 

42 

18 

34 

27 

03 

21 

34 

34 

11 

24 

34 

56 

00 

25 

35 

13 

08 

29 

35 

51 

21 

1 

35 

58 

19 

3 

36 

10 

20 

5 

36 

38 

56 

6 

36 

39 

33 

8 

36 

53 

03 

9 

36 

53 

40 

12 

37 

28 

28 

19 

38 

18 

20 

23 

39 

22 

19 

24 

39 

42 

15 

27 

40 

04 

27 

28 

39 

55 

11 

Longitudes. 


121°  23'  03" 

121  16  22 

121  07  13 

120  46  30 

120  58  03 

120  45  22 

120  28  34 

119  41  40 

119  22  02 

118  56  34 

118  35  03 

118  18  09 

118  20  00 

117  43  21 

117  13  00 

116  29  19 

116  23  28 


Localities. 


Rio  de  los  Mukelemnes. 

Rio  de  las  Calaveras. 

Stanislaus  river. 

Stanislaus  river. 

Large  tributary  of  the  San  Joaquin,  (no  name.) 

San  Joaquin  river. 

San  Joaquin  river. 

Lake  fork,  (of  the  Tulares.) 

Small  stream  affluent  to  the  lake,  (Tulares.) 

Small  stream  affluent  to  the  lake,  (Tulares.) 

Near   Pass  creek  in  the  mountains,    (Sierra  Ne- 
vada. ) 
Small  stream  east  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 

Rock  spring. 

Spring  heads  of  a  stream  among  foot  hills  of  the 

mountain. 
Mohahve  river,  on  the  Spanish  trail  from  Pueblo 

de  los  Angeles  to  Santa  F6. 
Mohahve  river,  on  the  Spanish  trail  from  Pueblo 

de  los  Angeles  to  Santa  Fe. 
Agua  de  Tomaso,  on  the  Spanish  trail. 

Hernandez  spring. 

Deep  Spring  hole  on  a  river  which  loses  itself  in 

the  sands. 
Las  Vegas,  (the  plains. ) 

Branch  of  the  Rio  Virgen. 

Rio  Virgen. 

Rio  Virgen. 

Rio  Virgen. 

Vegas  de  Santa  Clara. 

k  fine  rolling  prairie  at  the  spring  head  of  a  tribu- 
tary to  Sevier  lake. 
Sevier  river. 

First  stream  of  Utah  lake. 

Right-hand  branch  of  Spanish  fork. 

Head  of  Spaiiish  fork. 


Table  of  latitudes  and  longitudes — ^Continued. 


Date. 


1844. 
May       29 


Latitudes. 


■June 


July 


30 

3 

5 

7 

8 
10 
11 
13 
14 
15 
16 
19 
S2 
26 
28 

Ji9 

2 
9 
10 
13 
17 
19 
21 
22 
23 
28 


40«  00'   07" 
40     18     52 
40     27     45 
40     38     07 
40     46     27 

40  46     27 

41  01  48 
41  01  11 
41  1*8  48 
41  08  16 
40  52  44 
40  33  22 
39  57  26 
39  20  24 
38  39  22 
38  23  48 
38  15  23 
38  02  08 
38  51  15 
38  52  22 
38  46  57 
38  42  33 
38  43  32 
38  28  38 
38  31  38 
38  33  22 
38  46  50 


Longitudes. 


Localities. 


1120  18'    30" 
109     56    42 
109     27     07 


98     17     31 


98     04     34 


Head  of  Uintah  river. 

Duchesne  fork. 

Uintah  fort. 

Ashley's  fork. 

Brown's  Hole  on  Green  river. 

Green  river  in  Brown's  Hole. 

Elk  Head  river. 

Elk  Head  river. 

Valley   of  the  North  fork  of  Platte,  (foot  of  thfl 

mountains. ) 
VaUey  of  the  North  fork  of  Platte,  (higher.) 

New  Park. 

New  Park. 

Old  Park,  fork  of  Grand  river. 

Entrance  of  bayou  Salade — head  of  Fontaine-qui* 

bouit  ?     South  fork  of  the  Platte  ? 
Small  affluent  to  the  Arkansas. 

A  larger  affluent  to  the  Arkansas. 

Junction   of    Arkansas   and    Fontabe-qui-bouit 

rivers. 
Near  Bent's  fort  on  the  Arkansas  river. 

Smoky  Hill  river. 

Smoky  Hill  river. 

Smoky  Hill  river. 

Smoky  Hill  river,  below  Pawnee  village. 

Smoky  Hill  river. 

Three  miles  south  of  Smoky  Hill  fork. 

Between  Smoky  Hill  fork  and  the  Saata  Yi  trail. 

£anta  F6  road. 

Blackjack  on  the  Santa  Fe  road. 


METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS 
MADE  DURING  THE  JOURNEY. 

Comparison  of  barometers. 

According  to  three  observations  made  at  the  observatory  of  Paris, 
Lieutenant  Fremont's  barometer,  constructed  by  Bunten,  is  0.23  mil- 
limetres higher  than  the  standard  of  the  observatory. 

The  result  of  forty-three  comparative  observations  of  both  ba- 
rometers of  Mr.  Fremont  with  both  my  barometers,  gives  the  foUow^- 
ing: 

Barometer  E  (English)  =  E  (French)  -  0.051  inch  =  Fr.  (N.  Y.) 
-  0.034  inch  =  Fr.  (Bunten)  -  0.091  inch. 

Barometer  E  (French)  =  E  (English)  +  0.051  inch  =  Fr.  (N.  Y.) 
+  0.017  inch  ==  Fr.  (Bunten)  -  0.040  inch. 

Barometer  Fr.  (Bunten)  =  Fr.  (N.  Y.)  +  0.057  inch. 

Observations  from  May  1  to  May  11, 1843. 

Range  of  barometer  during  the  time,  =  0''.4. 
Range  of  thermometer,  =  60°  to  80°  Fahrenheit. 

G.  ENGELMANN. 
St.  Louis,  May,  13, 1843. 


784 


Table  of  meteorological  observations. 


Date. 


1843. 
June  10 


11 


12 


13 


14 


15 


Time. 


17 


18 

19 
20 

21 
22 
23 

24 
25 


Sunrise 

Ih.  41m.  p.  ra. 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunrise 

Noon 
Sunrise 
Ih.  p.  m. 
Sunset 

Simrise 

5h.  55m.  a.  m. 


Sunset 
1 6     Sunset 


4h.  47m.  a.  m. 
Noon 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Noon 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Noon 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Noon 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Noon 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunrise 


Barom. 


Attached.    Free 


Mill  int. 
7.'>3.74 
735.43 
733.95 
734.00 

728.95 

726.02 
726.15 
726.19 
724.96 

723.79 

721.67 


Thermometer. 


724.34 
724.72 

725.45 
723.42 

721.19 

720.80 

713.33 

712.07 
715.46 
712.53 
714.15 
714.29 
707.07 

708.49 
703.23 
701.15 

704.09 

703.04 
6M.78 
698.49 

689.19 


Cent. 

5.0 

22.0 

14.8 

8.8 

12.9 

24.9 
15.6 
25.1 
22.0 

16.3 

17.8 


Fahr. 
39.3 
69.0 
55.4 

I   48.6 

55.0 

75.4 
59.5 


AlU- 
tudes. 


Remarks. 


24.0 
19.1 

16.5 
21.1 

19.9 

16.1 


20.4 
31.5 
27.0 
20.8 
31.1 
25.3 

19.7 

28.4 
16.0 

9.0 

22.7 
18.6 
10.0 

15.7 


Feet. 
900 
938 
933 
933 

1,036 

1,331 
l,2fi7 


76.0  I  1,329 
1,406 


67.0 
60.0 


1,406 


61.6     1,486 


74.0 
64.0 


1,.555 
1,401 


60.0     1,347 


71.0 

69.0 
61.2 


25.7       78.2 


69.0 
86.0 
80.3 
69.0 
88.0 
77.0 

67.0 
83.8 
61.0 

47.4 

70.8 
65.4 
49.0 

59r5 


1,464 

1,535 

1,535 

1,911 

1,911 
1,868 
1,903 
1,903 
1,930 
2,135 

2,135 
2,386 
2,262 

2,262 

2,316 
2,354 
2,354 

2,822 


Clear  sky  ;  fog ;  wind  N. 
NE.  wind;  clear,  and  fine  cumuli. 
Slight  breeze  from  N W. ;  clear. 
Clear;  cumuli;  shght  breeze  from 

SW. 
Wind  S. ;  clear;  clouds  in  E.  ho- 
rizon. 
Wind  S. ;  clear;  few  cumuli. 
WindN. 

Wind  N.;  clear;  cumuli. 
Sky  covered  with  scattered  clouds; 

calm;  bright  sunset. 
Thunder  and  rain ;    rainbow  in 

the  W. 
At  sunset  last  night  a  very  vio- 
lent and  continuous  rain  com- 
menced, wind  N  W. ,  with  thun- 
der and  lightning,  for  half  an 
hour,  and  continued  moderate 
all  the  night.  This  morning 
calm  and  cloudy. 
Gentle  breeze  from  N W. ;  clear, 

and  cunmli. 
Wind  N.  60°  E. ;  heavy  rains  du- 
ring the  fore  part  of  the  day; 
clouds  and  sun  in  the  afternoon;* 
cloud-s,  with  the  appearance  of 
fair  weather. 
Sky  covered;  a  misty  rain;  wind 

S.  60°  E. 
Heavy  squalls  of  rain  during  the 
morning ;    wind    sliifting   from 
SE.  to  N. ,  and  settled  SE.  with 
clouds  and  sun. 
Clear,  and  some  cumuh;   slight 

breeze  from  N. 
Clear;  some  clouds  in  W.  hori- 
zon; wind  slight  from  SE. 
Wind  NE.;  sky  nearly  overcast 

with  clouds. 
Clear;  breeze  moderate  from  NE. 
Clear;  breeze  SE. 
Clear;  breeze  SE. 
Clear  sky;  wind  SE. 
Clear;  few  cumuli;  wind  S. 
Clear;  clouds  in  NW.;  wind  S. 

25°  E. 
Clear  and  cloudy;  wind  SE. 
Clear  and  clouds;  wind  SE. 
Clear,   and  some   clouds;    slight 

breeze  from  NW. 
Sky  partially  overcast,  wind  N. 

70°  W;  clear  in  NW. 
Clear;  wind  N.  70°  W. 
Cleat  and  calm. 
Clear;  light  breeze  from  S.  60* 

W. 
Clear;  wind  S.  20°  W. 


Table  of  meteorological  observations — Continued. 


Dat». 

Time. 

1843. 
June  25 

Noon 
Sunset 

- 

26 
27 

Sunrise 
Noon  (>) 
Sunrise 

-: 

28 

Noon 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

- 

29 

Sunset 
Sunrise 

. 

Ih.  26m.  p. 

m. 

Sunset 

- 

30 

Sunrise 
3h.  48m.  p 

m. 

Sunset 

- 

July      1 

Sunrise 

, 

2 

Noon 

Sunset 
Sunrise 
Noon 
Sunset 

- 

3 

Sunrise 

Noon 

Sunset 

", 

4 

Sunrise 

- 

I   Ih.  53m.  p.  m. 
3h.  53m.  p.  m. 


Sunset 
5      Sunrise 

7h.  53m.  a.  m. 
i  Noon 


Ih.  57m.  p.  ra. 

3h.  57m.  p.  m. 
6     5h.  3m.  a.  m. 


Barom. 

Thermometer. 

Alti- 
tudes. 

Remarks. 

Attached. 

Free. 

Millim. 

Cent. 

Fahr. 

Feet. 

686.60 

30.1 

90.5 

3,087 

Clears  wind  S.  35°  E. 

685.00 

21.1 

70.0 

3,037 

Clear;  slight  breeze  from  S.;  a 
few  clouds. 

684.08 

15.8 

59.5 

3;037 

Cahn  and  clear. 

681.02 

31.9 

88.3 

3,322 

Clear;  wind  S. 

672.33 

12.0 

53.5 

3,486 

Clear;  overcast  from  NW,  to 
NE. ;  slight  breeze  from  E. 

670.97 

29.4 

83.0 

3,732 

Overcast;  breeze  &om  N.  20°  E. 

667.20 

22.9 

73.0 

3,757 

Clear  and  cumuli;  breeze  N. 

667.75 

11.7 

52.0 

3,757 

Clear;  slight  breeze  from  W.;  a 
few  clouds. 

661.63 

25.8 

77.0 

4,070 

Clear;  breeze  from  SB. 

659.73 

16.8 

68.4 

4,070 

Clear;  breeze  moderate  from  N. 
80°  W. 

653.94 

30.0 

85.2 

4,532 

Clear;  breeze  moderate  from  N. 
80°  W. 

650.92 

23.9 

74.5 

4,590 

Clear;  some  clouds. 

6.50.29 

19.3 

66.7 

4,562 

Clear;  light  air  from  E. 

647.75 

14.8 

58.0 

4,621 

Clear;  slight  breeze  from  SW. 

655.76 

26.5 

76.0 

4,402 

Clear  and  clouds  in  the  horizon; 
strong  wind  from  NE. 

657.39 

20.6 

69.4 

4,089 

Heavy  clouds  arising  since  an 
hour;  sky  partially  co%-ered;  ap- 
pearance of  bad  weather;  gale 
of  wind  from  SE.,  and  light- 
ning from  the  same  quarter. 

663.74 

12.6 

54.0 

4,089 

Clear;  some  clouds;  moderate 
wind  from  N. 

663.60 

21.2 

70.0 

4,015 

Clear;  wind  N. ;  moderate. 

662.02 

15.8 

59.0 

3,976 

Clear;  wind  NE.;  moderate. 

661.75 

6.6 

43.0 

3,976 

Slight  breeze  from  NE. 

6.58.32 

27.7 

80.0 

4,336 

Clear;  strong  wind  from  S.  60°E. 

654.05 

21.9 

72.0 

4,419 

Clear;  moderate  breeze  from  S. 
3.5°  E. 

652.49 

10.0 

47.0 

4,419 

Calm  and  clear. 

649.91 

31.0 

87.5 

4,771 

Calm  and  clear. 

646.46 

25.5 

78.0 

4,760 

Slight  breeze  from  NW.;  sky 
covered  with  heavy  clouds;  a 
thunder  storm  passing  by. 

646.19 

10.6 

51.5 

4,760 

Air  SW.;  clear  and  clouds. 

643.55 

33.3 

85.5 

5,068 

Moderate  breeze  from  E.;  clear 
and  clouds. 

642.69 

34.2 

92.2 

5,143 

Moderate  breeze  from  E.;  clear 
and  clouds. 

641.34 

23.1 

74.0 

4,947 

Calm;  clear;  clouds  in  horizon. 

642.85 

14.0 

53.0 

4,947 

Calm  and  clear;  some  clouds. 

644.51 

23.7 

84.4 

_ 

Calm  and  clear;  soise  clouds. 

645.41 

29.4   ; 

85.0 

4,947 

Slight  breeze  fromNW.;  clear; 
clouds;  big  clouds  over  the 
mountains. 

645.14 

31.6 

88.6 

" 

Slight  breeze  from  NW. ;  clear; 
clouds;  big  clouds  over  the 
mountains. 

643.96 

31.3 

88.2 

5,027 

Slight  breeze  from  NW.;  thun- 
der storm  approaching. 

646.96 

17.4 

62.6 

4,721 

Cloudy;  air  from  S. 

Tahlt  of  meteorological  observations — Continued. 


Time. 

Barom. 

Thermometer. 

Alti- 
tudes. 

Date. 

Remarks. 

Attached. 

Free. 

1843. 

Millim. 

Cent. 

Fahr. 

Feet. 

July      6 

6h.  58m.  a.  m. 

647.91 

24.0 

82.4 

4,899 

Clear  and  cl  juds;  slight  breeze  or 
air  from  SW, 

7 

Noon 

639.55 

22.0 

73.0 

.5,103 

Clear;  clouds  in  horizon;  moder- 
ate breeze  from  N. 

Ih.  13m.  p.  m. 

638.84 

23.5 

78.5 

5,192 

Clear;  clouds  in  horizon;  moder- 
ate breeze  from  N. 

5h.  43m.  p.  m. 

635.13 

21.7 

69.2 

5.305 

Overcast  with  clouds;  a  little 
rain;  air  from  N. 

Sunset 

635.93 

18.0 

64.0 

5,203 

Clear  over  head;  cloudy  horizon; 
mountains  covered  with  dark 
clouds. 

8 

Sunrise 

635.61 

14.0 

55.5 

5,203 

Air  S. ;  clear;  cloudy  horizon. 

Noon 

631.43 

21.8 

72.0 

5,497 

Overcast;  rainy  appearance;  slight 
breeze  from  N.  60°  W. 

Ih.  29m.  p.  m. 

630.89 

22.3 

73.5 

5,531 

Overcast;  rainy  appearance;  slight 
breeze  from  N.  60°  W. 

9 

Sunrise 

623.05 

13.7 

55.0 

5,756 

Overcast;   air  from  E. 

Oh.  45m.  p.  m. 

604.64 

24.2 

70.1 

6,759 

Clear  and  clouds;  moderate  breeze 
from  N.  25°  E. 

2h.  45m.  p.  m. 

603.49 

20.0 

66.5 

6,770 

Overcast;  moderate  breeze  from 
N.  25°  E. 

Sunset 

601.96 

14.1 

57.0 

6,750 

Overcast;  calm;  moderate  breeze 
from  N.  25°  E. 

10 

Sunrise 

600.59 

10.2 

49.0 

6,750 

Overcast  with  rainy  clouds;  wind 
S.  30°  E. 

Noon 

609.20 

20.4 

68.0 

6,517 

Overcast,  and  some  blue  sky, 
wind  moderate  from  E. 

Oh.  45m.  p.  m. 

608.90 

20.2 

66.2 

6,520 

Overcast,  and  some  blue  sky; 
wind  moderate  from  E. 

5h.  30ra.  p.  m. 

615.86 

20.1 

74.0 

6,238 

Clear;  some  clouds;  wind  slight 
from  E. 

Sunset 

615.85 

17.1 

63.0 

- 

Clear;  some  clouds;  wind  slight 
from  E. 

Sunset 

615.85 

17.1 

63.0 

6,135 

Clear;  some  clouds,  wind  slight 
from  E. 

11 

Sunrise 

614.65 

10.9 

51.0 

6,135 

Wind  SE.;  clear. 

2h.   5ra.  p.  m. 

589.80 

21.1 

70.0 

7,464 

Overcast;  moderate  wind  SE. 

Sunset 

589.46 

18.8 

65  0 

7,305 

Clear  and  clouds;  slight  breeze 
fromSW. 

12 

Sunrise 

588.13 

7.8 

44.0 

7,305 

Clear;  slight  wind  from  NE. 

Ih.  20m.  p.  m. 

611.99 

32.0 

87.5 

6,544 

Clear;  sHght  wind  from  KE. 

3h.  20m.  p.  m. 

611.61 

32.4 

89.5 

6,577 

Clear;  moderate  wind  from  S. 

Sunset 

620.79 

21.5 

69.5 

5,797 

Clouds,  and  some  clear  sky; 
calm. 

13 

Sunrise 

621.40 

8.1 

46.0 

.5,797 

Clear;  breeze  from  NW. 

Noon 

633.51 

30.8 

87.0 

.5,518 

Clear,  and    some   clouds;    wind 

SE. 
Clear,    and    some  clouds;  wind 

4?j.  28m.  p.  m. 

633.00 

30.8 

85.0 

5,5.33 

SE. 

14 

Sunrise  (?)     - 

639.60 

13.8 

58.2 

5,086 

Clear  and  calm. 

Noon 

648.84 

32.1 

90.0 

4,885 

Clear  and  clouds;  cahn. 

Ih.  30m.  p.  m. 

648.20 

35.7 

88.5 

5,030 

Fresh  breeze  from  B. 

4h.  p.  m. 

646.51 

28.0 

82.5 

5,038 

Calm;  thunder  storm  approach- 

15 

Sunrise 

647.85 

15.8 

59.3 

4,655 

ing. 
Clear;  a  few  clouds;  calm. 

8h.  50m.  p.  m. 

648.39 

25.9 

83.0 

4,795 

Clear  and  clouds;  flaws  of  wind 
from  SW. 

Nofltt 

648.08 

32.9 

91.0 

4,881 

Clear;  clouds;  calm. 

Table  of 

meteorological  observations 

• — Continued. 

Thermometer. 

Alti- 
tudes. 

Date. 

Time. 

Barom. 

Remarks. 

. 

.M,  W^J  *  **  ***   A^^iF  ■ 

Attached. 

Free. 

1843. 

Millim. 

Cent. 

Fahr. 

Feet. 

July    15 

2h.  20m.  p.  m. 

647.49 

33.9 

94.2 

4,929 

Clear  and  clouds;  flaws  from 
SW. 

4h.  20m.  p.  m. 

646.69 

28.7 

83.5 

4,890 

Overcast;  moderate  breeze  from 
SW. 

Sunset 

646.70 

24.0 

74.8 

4,774 

Overcast;  calm;  dark  clouds  in 

E. 
Calm;  clear;  few  cumuli. 

16 

Sunrise 

646.36 

13.3 

57.0 

4,774 

Noon 

637.37 

28.2 

82.0 

5,324 

Strong  wind  from  N.  20°  E.; 
squall  of  rain  just  passing  over; 
masses  of  cumuli. 

Ih.  50m.  p.  m. 

637.37 

29.2 

84.5 

5,458 

Weather  growing  worse. 

17 

Sunrise 

634.19 

15.6 

."18.2 

5,292 

Cloudy;  some  clear  sky;  calm. 

Noon 

625.37 

26.5 

77.0 

5,851 

Wind  E. ;  clear;  some  cumuli; 
dark  clouds  above  the  moun- 
tains. 

Ih.  6m.  p.  m. 

625.37 

27.1 

78.5 

5,863 

Wind  E.;  clear;  some  cumuU; 
dark  clouds  above  the  moun- 
tains. 

18 

Sunrise 

617.88 

10.6 

49.0 

5,958 

Clear;  slight  breeze  from  W. 

5h.  27m.  a.  m. 

617.35 

12.4 

54  0 

6,020 

Clear;  slight  breeze  from  W. 

lOh.  50m.  a.  m. 

615.17 

27.8 

73.0 

6,318 

Clear  and  calm;  temperature  of 
upper  spring  =  69°. 0  Fahr., 
lower  spring  =  60°.  5  Fahr. 

Noon 

615.25 

29.2 

78.6 

6,351 

Clear;  some  cumuli;  darker  clouds 
over  the  mountains;  slight  breeze 
SE. 
Cloudy;  wind  NW.,  but  chang- 

Sunset 

613.90 

20.3 

66.0 

6,260 

ing  eveiy  instant;  temperature 

of  upper  spring  =  61°.0,  lower 

spring  =  58°.  0  Fahr. 

19 

Sunrise 

613.04 

13.6 

57.5 

6,260 

Clear;  a  slight  breeze  from  N W. ; 
temperature  of  upper  spring  = 
57°.  8,  lower  spring  54°.3  Fahr. 

Noon 

614.04 

29.7 

86.0 

6,337 

Moderate  breeze  from  N. ;  clouds; 

some  clear  sky;  thunder  storm 

inN. 
Cloudy  over  the  mountains;  clear 

Ih.  50m.  p.  m. 

613.26 

26.0 

77.5 

6,391 

in  N. ;  breeze  NE. 

Sunset 

606.80 

18.6 

62.5 

6,527 

Cloudy ;  thunder  storm  has  pass- 
ed; clear  above  the  mountains; 
breeze  from  S.,  but  changing 
every  moment  to  every  quarter. 

20 

Sunrise 

604.94 

7.6 

44.2 

6,527 

Clear  and  calm. 

Ih.  22m.  p.  m. 

608.56 

26.9 

77.2 

0,613 

Clear;  few  cumuli;  slight  breeze 
from  N. 

2h.  52m.  p.  m. 

608.16 

28.2 

78.5 

6,647 

Clear;  few  cumuli;  slight  breeze 
from  N. 

Sunset 

615.34 

20.6 

69.2 

6,122 

Cloudy;  calm. 

21 

Sunrise 

614.60 

7.4 

44.8 

6,122 

Slight  breeze  from  8E. ;  clear. 

Ih.  4m.   p.  m. 

633.30 

28.5 

83.5 

5,488 

Clear;  some  cumuli;  slight  breeze 
fromNW. 

2h.  32m.  p.  m. 

632.57 

24.3 

75.0 

5,457 

Thunder  storm,  with  rain,  ad- 
vancing from  NW. 

Sunset 

636.25 

21.8 

71.0 

5,192 

Cloudy;  some  clear  sky;  calm. 

22 

Sunrise 

634.50 

7.2 

44.4 

."5,192 

Clear;  air  from  SE. 

Oh.  37m.  p.  m. 

641.03 

31.9 

85.0 

5,161 

Clear;  air  from  NW. 

2h.   8m.  p.   m. 

641.03 

31.6 

86.0 

5,163 

Clear;  air  from  NW. 

Sunset 

641.19 

22.7 

73.0 

4,974 

Clear;  slight  breeze  from  E. 

Table  of  intltorological  obsej^vations — Continued. 


Thermometer. 

Alti- 
tudes. 

Date. 

Time. 

Barom. 

Tlpmarka. 

.liVQlXltXl  aO* 

Attached. 

Free. 

Feet. 

1843. 

Millim. 

Cent. 

Fahr. 

July   23 

Sunrise 

639.62 

7.4 

45.0 

4,974 

Cleat;  air  from  E. 

Noon 

645.29 

29.8 

85.0 

4,959 

Clear;  slight  breeze  from  E. 

2h.  p.  m. 

645.09 

36.6 

90.0 

5,026 

Clear;  slight  breeze  from  E. 

4h-  p.  m. 

641.49 

30.4 

88.3 

5,080 

Clear;  shght  breeze  from  E. 

Sunset 

643.35 

21.8 

74.0 

4,940 

Clear  and  calm. 

24 

5h.  .'J4m.  a.  m. 

612.95 

13.0 

55.0 

4,940 

Clear;  air  from  W. 

2h.  4m.  p.  m. 

641.70 

32.8 

89.0 

5,143 

Clear;  air  from   W.;  clouds  in 
horizon. 

4h.  4m.  p.  ra. 

640.95 

33.4 

88.5 

5,179 

Clear;  wind  from  E. 

25 

Sunrise 

641.39 

13.4 

55.0 

4,965 

Clear  and  clouds;  wind  N. 

lOh.  .5m.  a.  m. 

643.74 

27.7 

81.5 

4,991 

Clear  and  clouds;  wind  N. 

2h.  5m.  p.  m. 

643.  UO 

28.6 

82.0 

5,032 

Clear  and  clouds;  wind  N. 

4h.  5m.  p.  m. 

642.48 

27.8 

81.5 

5,048 

Clear  and  clouds;  wind  N. 

Sunset 

643.50 

20.8 

69.0 

4,857 

Clear  and  clouds;  breeze  from  S. 

26 

Sunrise 

644.35 

14.4 

58.0 

4,857 

Overcast;  air  from  N. 

Sunset 

644.00 

17.8 

64.0 

4,866 

CJear  and  clouds;  air  from  E. 

27 

Ih.  16m.  p.  m. 

642.29 

31.4 

87.0 

.5,128 

Clear  and  clouds;  breeze  from  N. 

3h.  p.  m. 

641.54 

32.7 

87.2 

5,170 

Clear  and  clouds;  thunder  storm 
coming  up  from  N. 

Sunset 

636.00 

24.4 

7p.O 

5,184 

Clear  and  clouds;  breeze  from  N. 

28 

Sunrise 

643.11 

15.0 

58.8 

5,184 

Overcast;  calm. 

Noon 

637.78 

22.1 

71.0 

5,210 

Overcast;  breeze  S.  25°  W. 

Ih.  26m   p,  m. 

637.40 

21.2 

68.2 

5,201 

Beginning  to  rain. 

29 

4h.  26m.  a.  m. 

631.85 

12.0 

53.0 

5,336  (  Fine  rain;  calm. 

6h.  56m.  p.  m. 

627.50 

14.0 

55.5 

5,557     Rainy. 

30 

5h.  11m.  a.  m. 

627.64 

11.6 

52.5 

5,530     Misty;  rainy  appearance;  calm. 

Noon 

6 12.  .53 

20.0 

64.5 

6,339     Clear  and  clouds;  slight   breeze 

from  SE. 

Ih.  26m.  p.  m. 

612.24 

20.6 

65.3 

6,359 

Clear  and  clouds;  shght  breeze 
from  SE. 

Sunset 

585.52 

12.3 

54.0 

7,521 

Clear;   moderate  breeze  from  S. 

31 

Sunrise 

584.40 

10.8 

48.0 

7,521 

Clear;  mist  still  in  horizon;  breeze 

W. 
Clear  and  clouds;  windN.24°W. 

Noon 

582.29 

22.6 

69.0 

7,844 

0h.>36m.  p.  m. 

.582  29 

22.5 

69.5 

7,847  1  Clear  andclouds;windN.24°VV. 

Sunset 

592.70 

17.7 

64.0 

7,178    Clear;  cloudy  in  horizon;  windE. 

Aug.     1 

Sunrise 

592.20 

6.2 

42.4 

7,178     Clear  and  calm. 

Noon 

592.19 

24.0 

72.0 

7,382    Clouds;  alittlc  rain;  a  liUle  clear; 

slight  breeze  from  NE. 

Oh.  54m.  p.  m. 

592.06 

24.8 

74.0 

7,408 

Clouds;  a  little  rain;  a  little  clear; 
.=light  breeze  from  NE. 

Sunset 

582.75 

16.4 

62.0 

7,730 

Clear  and  clouds;  breeze  from  NE. 

2 

Sunrise 

580.55 

11.0 

51.6 

7,730 

Clear;  wind  W. 

Noon 

579.79 

22.2 

73*.  0 

7,994 

Clear;  clouds;  strong  wind  from 

W. 
Clear;  clouds;  strong  wind  from 

W. 
Clear  and  calm. 

Ih.  24m.  p.  m. 

579.40 

22.2 

70.5 

7,995 

3 

Sunrise 

573.37 

1.2 

33.0 

7,602 

9h.  52m.  a.  m. 

572.37 

19.6 

68.8 

8,314    Sky   covered    with    'hin    misty 
clouds;  breeze  S.  70°  W. 

Sunset 

592.95 

18.4 

66.0 

7,143  ,  Clear;  clouds;    moderate   breeze 

from  W. 

4 

Sunrise 

593.64 

6.2 

33.5 

7,143 

Clear;  few  cumuli;  calm. 

Oh.  32m.  p.  m. 

602.88 

26.3 

79.5 

6,951 

Cloudy;   some  clear  sky;  slight 
breeze  from  S. 

Ih.  42m.  p.  m. 

602.88 

28.1 

80.0 

6,963 

Cloudy;  strong  breeze  from  S. 

5 

8h.  50m.  a.  m. 

604.71 

17.5 

64.0 

6,727     Clear  and  calm. 

9h.  50m.  a.  m. 

604.80 

19.6 

67.2 

6,755     Clear  and  calm. 

lOh.  50m.  a.  m. 

604.60 

21.3 

69.5 

6,786 

Clear  and  calm. 

Table  of  meteorological  observations — Continued. 


Thermometer. 

Alti- 
tudes. 

Date. 

Time. 

fiarom. 

Remarks. 

JL  V\-' t  A-Sl^A  XX^* 

Attached. 

Free. 

1843. 

Millim. 

Cent. 

Fahr. 

Feet. 

Aug.  5. 

Noon 

604.65 

24.4 

75.0 

6,825 

Clear^  calm;  cloudy. 

Oh.  50m.  p.  m. 

604.45 

25.5 

79.5 

6,881 

Clear;  calm;  cloudy. 

Ih.  50m.  p.  m. 

604.45 

25.8 

78.2 

6,875 

Clear;  calm;  cloudy. 

2h.  50m.  p.  m. 

604.45 

26.0 

77.5 

6,871 

Clear;  calm;  cloudy, 

3h.  50in.  p.  m. 

603.85 

26.5 

75.2 

6,888 

Clear;  W.  wind  in  squalls. 

4h.  50m.  p.  m. 

603.44 

25.8 

95.0 

- 

Free  thermometer  in  the  sun. 

Sunset 

603.09 

20.8 

70.0 

6,743 

(vlear;  some  clouds;  W.  wind  in 
squalls. 

6 

Sunrise 

602.70 

7.5 

46.0 

6,743 

Clear  and  calm. 

Sunset 

588.40 

19.3 

63.5 

7,490 

Cloudy;  thunder  storm  approach- 
ing; air  from  E.;  temperature 
of  spring,  46°  Fahr. 

7 

Sunrise 

587.19 

8  0 

43.0 

6,040 

Air  from  W.;  clear. 

Ih.  50m.  p.  m. 

597.59 

27.0 

79.5 

7,190 

Clear  and  clouds ;  breeze  from  W. 

Sunset 

596.70 

21.4 

69.8 

7,000 

Clear  and  cloudy;  slight  breeze 
from  W. 

8 

Sunrise 

596.40 

12.6 

52.0 

7,000 

Cloudy;  wind  from  E. 

2h.  28m.  p.  m. 

606.81 

25.5 

78.0 

6,784 

Cloudy;  wind  from  S. 

9 

Sunrise 

603.84 

11.1 

51.0 

6,594 

Cloudy;  rain  last  night;  wind 
from  N. 

Noon 

611.16 

24.8 

77.0 

6,483 

Clouds  and  clear;  wind  N  W. 

Ih.  7m.  p.  m.  - 

610.77 

26.5 

78.0 

6,517 

Clouds  and  clear;  wind  NW. 

10 

Sunrise 

614.05 

6.8 

41.0 

6,028 

Clear;  some  clouds;  calm. 

Noon 

610.80 

26.6 

78.0 

6,502 

Clear;  squalls  from  all  points. 

Sunset 

607.77 

22.0 

71.8 

6,557 

Moderate  breeze  from  NV. ;  clear; 
horizon  dirty. 

11 

Sunrise 

605.56 

12.8 

56.5 

6,557 

Clear;  fresh  breeze  from  W. 

2h.  8m.  p.  m.  • 

600.30 

22.6 

71.0 

6,926 

Hazy;  fresh  breeze  from  W. 

Sunset* 

599.39 

16.8 

61.2 

6,720 

Clear  and  clouds;  moderate  wind 
from  NW. 

12 

Sunrise 

600.14 

1.6 

31.8 

- 

Clear;  calm;  white  frost. 

Ih.  20m.  p.  m. 

587.45 

17.5 

60.5 

7.446 

Clear;  calm;  moderate  wind  from 

NW. 

Sunset 

587.76 

11.6 

52.8 

7,221 

Calm  and  clear. 

13 

Sunrise 

587.74 

—  1.5 

28.0 

7,221 

('aim  and  clear;  white  frost. 

lOh.  2m.  a.  m. 

587.03 

17.9 

64.2 

7,489 

At  the  divide;  moderate  breeze 
from  NW. 

Noon 

592.92 

21.6 

67.0 

7,242 

Moderate  breeze  from  NW. 

Oh.  40m.  p.  m, 

592.65 

22.1 

68.0 

7,265 

Moderate  breeze  from  N  W. 

Sunset 

595.20 

19.8 

67.2 

6,951 

Clear  and  calm. 

14 

Sunrise 

595.27 

1.2 

32.2 

6,951 

Clear;  air  from  NW. 

lOh.  50m.  a.  m. 

602.45 

24.8 

75.2 

6,846 

Clear;  slight  breeze  from  S. 

Noon 

602.44 

29.2 

86.1 

6,941 

Clear;  slight  breeze  from  S. 

Sunset 

602.52 

23.8 

75.0 

6,667 

Clear;  slight  breeze  from  NW. 

15 

Sunrise 

604.45 

2.4 

34.0 

6,667 

Clear;  wind  from  N. 

2h.  p.  m. 

611.50 

29.2 

84.2 

6,546 

Clear  over  head;  dirty  horizon; 
calm. 

3h.  p.  m. 

611.28 

29.8 

86.5 

6,516 

Clear  over  head;  dirty  horizon; 
calm. 

Sunset 

610.94 

19.0 

65.2 

6,238 

Clear  over  head;  dirty  horizon; 
calm. 

16 

Sunrise 

610.36 

3.2 

37.0 

6,238 

Clear  and  calm. 

Noon 

613.34 

30.1 

82.0 

6,399 

Clear  over  head;  horizon  dirty; 
wind  squally  from  N. 

Sunset 

613.31 

23.6 

74.3 

6,150 

Clear  over  head;  horizon  dirty; 
slight  breeze  from  N. 

17 

Sunrise 

614.24 

3.9 

38.4 

6,150 

Clear;  foggy  horizon;  air  from 
SW. 

Table  of  meteorological  observations — Continued. 


Date. 


1843. 
Aug.  17 

18 


19 


Time. 


20 


21 


2h.  3m.  p.  m. 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

2h.  p.  m. 
3h.  p.  m. 
Sunrise 
Noon 


Barom. 


Thermometer. 


22 


23 
24 


25 


26 


27 


Oh.  46m. 

P- 

m. 

Sunset 

^ 

Sunrise 

- 

Noon 

- 

Ih.  p.  m. 

4h.  I  Cm. 

P- 

m 

Sunrise 

Noon 

Ih.  5m.    p.   m. 

Sunset 

Suiuise 
Noon 

Ih.  30m.  p.  m. 

Sunrise 

Noon 

Oh.  45m.  p.  m. 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Noon 

Sunset 

Sunrise 


Noon 

Sunset 
Sunrise 

Noon 


Attached.   Free 


Millim. 
610.45 
610.68 
611.83 

607.04 
607.04 
606.30 
608.85 

608.54 

602.75 
602.05 

596.33 

596.33 

575.87 


607.06 

614.45 
613.93 

612.41 

612.29 
616.50 

616.02 

616.03 
614.88 
614.88 
618.77 
621.22 
624.34 

621.83 

620.84 


623.64 

638.67 
637.64 

635.86 
635.70 


Cent. 

29.1 

18.1 

5.3 

31.5 

31.9 

4.6 

32.9 

33.2 

25.0 
4.2 

27.7 

30.0 

27.2 


6.6 

31.6 
31.0 

18.8 

4.6 

28.7 

27.2 

8.6 
25.2 
25.7 
14.2 

7.7 
26.0 

16.8 

0. 


31.4 

22.6 
0. 

24.7 
26.1 


Alti- 
tudes- 


Fahr. 
84.0 
64. e 
38.1 

82.6 
82.0 
38.6 
88.0 

89.0 

72.2 
37.0 

80.5 

82.5 

79.2 


43.8 

89.0 
87.0 

65.0 

36.5 

84.8 


Remarks. 


Feet. 
6,558 
6,2^4 
6,234 

6,735 
6,732 
6,361 
6,640 

6,719 

6,661 
6,661 

7,227 

7,257 

8,234 


79.0  !  6,264 

47.2 
75.2 
74.5 
56.4 
45.4 
72.2 

62.5 

28.5 


83.3 

68.3 
29.0 

77.0 
79.5 


Clear;  foggy  horizon;  calm. 
Clear;  horizon  more  pure;  calm. 
Clear;  air  from  N.  80°  W.;  hazy 

horizon. 
Clear;  slight  breeze  from  W. 
Clear;  slight  breeze  from  W. 
Smoky  horizon;  calm  and  clear. 
Clear;    few    cumuli;    breeze   in 

squalls  from  8W. 
Clear;   few    cumuli;     breeze   in 

squalls  from  SW. 
Clear  and  calm;  horizon  not  pure. 
Clear,  and  dirty  horizon;  breeze 

from  NW. 
Moderate  wind  N.  60°  W.;  hazy 

sun. 
Moderate  wind  N.  60°  W. ;  hazy 

sun. 
Dividing  ridge;  smoky;  sun  faint; 
scattered  cumuli;  thunderstorm 
some  distance  in  E. ;  high  wind 
N.  60°  W. 
Smoky;  siui  faint;  cumuli;    air 

SE. 
Smoky;  sun  faint;  calm. 
Smoky;  sun  faint;  wind  in  squalls 

from  S. 
Cumuli:   thunder  storm  at  a  dis- 
tance; slight  breeze  from  N. 
Smoky;  scattered  curauU;  calm. 
Very  smoky;   sun   fauit;  cumuli; 

calm. 
Very  smoky;  high  wind  from  N. 
10°  W.;  rainy  appearance. 
5, 989     Smoky ;  clear;  cold  breeze  from  S. 
6,290    Wind  in  squalls  from  NW. 
6,288     Clear;  very  smoky. 
5,843    Clear  and  calm;  very  smoky. 
5,843     Clear;  hazy;  cold  wind  from  SE. 
5,841     Clear;   hazy;    breeze   in   squalls 

from  SE. 
5,738    Clear;  hazy ;  cahn;  temperature  of 

Big  Spring  =  6.1°. 0  Fahr. 
5,738    Clear;  smoky;  calm;  temperature 
r  Big  Spring  =  56°. 0  Fahr. 
of  ^  Steam  hole  ==  81°. 5     " 
^Steamboat    =  87°. 0     " 
5,958    Clear;    smoky;   moderate  breeze 

from  S.  25°  E. 
5,012    Clear;  smoky;  calm. 
5,012    Clear;     smoky;     some     cumuli; 

calm. 
5,320    Cloudy;   rainy   appearance;    not 
quite  so  smoky;   breeze  S.  70° 

5,347  I  Partly  clouded  sky. 


6,358 

6,416 
6,425 

6,185 

6,185 
6,281 


Table  of  meteorological  observations — Continued. 


Thermometer. 

Date. 

Time. 

Barom. 

Alti- 
tudes. 

Remarks. 

Attached. 

Free. 

1843. 

Millhn. 

Cent. 

Fahr. 

Feet. 

Aug.  27 

Sunset 

636.25 

20.8 

69.2 

5,142 

Dark  clbuds;    very    little    blue; 
slight  breeze  from  S. 

28 

Sunrise 

638.33 

14.6 

55.0 

5,142 

Slight    breeze    from    N. ;    light 
cVouds  all  over  the  sky;  thun- 
der storm  last  night,  with  mod- 
erate rain,  which  has  made  the 
air  clear. 

2h.  p.  m. 

648.50 

28.3 

78.0 

4,764 

Fresh  breeze  S.  30°  E.;   clear 
over  head;  clouds;  rain  in  the 

- 

horizon. 

Sunset 

647.77 

20.3 

65.0 

4,681 

Calm;  clear;  cumuli. 

29 

Sunrise 

646.70 

14.1 

54.0 

4,681 

Air  from  NW. ;  dark  rainy  cIoud» 
moving   on  the  horizon;   over 
head  not  so  dark;   considera- 
ble rain  last  night;  thunder  and 
wind. 

Noon 

629.32 

21.8 

71.0 

5,  .561 

Clear  and  clouds;  wind  from  E. 

Ih.  p.  m. 

629.55 

25.1 

76.0 

5,595 

Clear  and  clouds;  wind  from  E. 

30 

Sunrise 

623.40 

4.2 

39.0 

5,570 

Clear;   clouds  in  horizon;   con- 
stant thunder  storms,  with  rain 
last  night;  calm- 

Noon 

637.29 

19.8 

67.0 

5,169 

Wind  SW. ;  clouds  and  blue  sky. 

Ih.  30m.  p.  m. 

636.95 

22.7 

73.0 

5,228 

Strong  wind   SW.;   clouds  and 
blue  sky. 

Sunset 

644.49 

19.8 

64.0 

4,723 

Calm;  almost  overcast  with  heavy 
clouds. 

31 

Sunrise 

646.04 

8.2 

44.5 

4,723 

Clear;  sUght  breeze  from  S.  70" 
W. 

Noon 

649.63 

26.6 

71.0 

4,666 

Clear;  clouds;  calm;  began  to  rain 
at  sunset,  and  continued  almost 
the  whole  night. 

Sept.     1 

4h.  48m.  p.  m. 

659.55 

20.2 

65.0 

4,189 

Clear  and  clouds;   fresh  breeze 
from  S. 

Sunset 

658.91 

12.8 

54.5 

4,093 

Clear  and  calm;  few  clouds. 

2 

Simrise 

65904 

6.2 

41.2 

4,093 

Clear  and  calm. 

3 

.5h.  30m.  a.  m. 

658.39 

8.5 

45.5 

4,113 

Clear;  jur  from  N. 

8h.  50m.  a.  m. 

660.14 

22.6 

61.3 

4,170 

Clear;  air  from  S. 

9h.  50m.  a.  m. 

660.04 

22.0 

66.0 

4,190 

Clear;  air  from  S. 

10h.50m.  a.  m. 

660.15 

23.2 

69.0 

4,195 

Clear;  air  from  S. 

Noon 

660.27 

25.2 

72.5 

4,222 

Clear;  slight  breeze  from  S. 

2h.  p.  m. 

659.28 

23.7 

79.0 

4,282 

Clear;  slight  breeze  from  S. 

Sunset 

656.83 

16.2 

60.5 

4,247 

Clear  and  calm. 

4 

5h.  33m.  a.  m. 

655.78 

7.5 

42.0 

4,247 

Clear  and  calm. 

Sunset 

653.10 

22.8 

75,5 

4.526 

Calm;  clear,  and  clouds  in  the 
horizon. 

5 

Sunrise 

652.39 

18.0 

64.5 

4,526 

Wind  brisk  from   SE.;   clouds; 
rainy  appearance;  there  was  a 
thunder  storm  at  a  distance,  and 
some  rain  last  night. 

Sunset 

650. 1 1 

18.8 

65.0 

4,496 

Clear  over  head;  dark  clouds  in 
horizon;   thunder  storm,   with 
rain  in  the  afternoon. 

6 

Svmrise 

652.03 

8.6 

45.5 

4,496 

Clear  and  calm;  some  cumuli  in 
the  horizon. 

Sunset 

656.25 

15.7 

55.0 

4,173 

Clear  and  some  cumuli;   calm; 
thunder  storm,  with  some  rain 
and  a  gale  this  afternoon. 

7 

Sunrise 

658  21 

5.3 

39.5 

4,173 

Clear  and  calm. 

Table  of  meteorological  observations — Continued. 


Thermometer. 

Date. 

Time. 

Barom. 

Alti- 
tudes. 

Remarks. 

Attached. 

Free. 

1843. 

milim. 

Cent. 

Fahr. 

Feet. 

Sept.     7 

6h.  50m.  a 

m. 

658.95 

8.6 

47.0 

4,086 

Clear  and  calm. 

7h.  50m.  a 

m. 

659.44 

12.8 

55.7 

4,119 

Clear  and  calm. 

8h.  50m.  a. 

m. 

659.89 

15.0 

59.2 

4,125 

Clear  and  calm. 

9h.  50m.  a. 

m. 

660.09 

17.8 

64.5 

4,152 

Clear  and  calm. 

10h.50m.a 

m. 

660.10 

19.6 

67.2 

.4,172 

Clear,  and  gentle  breeee  from  N. 
25°  E. 

Noon 

- 

659.88 

24.6 

70.0 

4,218 

Clear,  and  wind  in  squalls  from 
same  quarter. 

Oh.  50m.  p. 

m. 

659.42 

23.3 

71.2 

4,235 

Clear,  and  wind  in  squalls  from 
S.  25°  W. 

Ih.  50m.  p. 

m. 

659.66 

27.0 

75.0 

4,258 

Clear,  and  wind  in  squalls  from 
S.  25°  W. 

Uh.  50m.  p. 

m. 

659.40 

27.8 

74.3 

4,271 

Clear,  and  wind  in  squalls  from 
S.  25°  W. 

3h.  50m.  p. 

m. 

659.12 

26.9 

72.0 

4,270 

Clear,  and  some  clouds  in  the  ho- 
rizon. 

4h.  50m.  p. 

m. 

659.03 

26.8 

73.0 

4,276 

Clear,  and  some  clouds  in  the  ho- 
rizon. 

Sunset 

- 

657.69 

15.7 

61.5 

4,181 

Clear  over  head;  light  clouds  in 
horizon;  calm. 

S 

Sunrise 

- 

656.59 

5.8 

40.9 

4,181 

Clear;  clouds  in  the  horizon; 
calm. 

4h.  p.  m. 

- 

657.22 

23.2 

73.0 

4,320 

Clear  over  head;  clouds  in  the  ho- 
rizon; air  from  SW. 

Sunset 

. 

656.71 

13.7 

64.0 

4,226 

Clear  over  head;  clouds  in  the  ho- 

1 

rizon;  air  from  SW.;  calm. 

9 

Sunrise 

- 

656.39 

10.0 

49.2     4,226 

Clear  and  calm. 

Oh.  18m.  p. 

m. 

658.39 

28.2 

75.0 

4,276 

Clear  over  head;  clouds  in  hori- 
zon; air  from  SE. 

4h.  40m.  p. 

m. 

638.82 

27.1 

— 

5,159 

On  the  peak  of  Crater  island;  air 
from  SE. 

5h.  23m.  p. 

m. 

656.05 

24.6 

72.0 

4,. 336 

On  the  shore  of  the  lake;  air  from 
SE. 

10 

Sunrise 

- 

654.11 

15.2 

59.0 

4,336 

Clear;  scattered  cumuli;  a  gale  of 
wind  S.  t^°  E. 

Oh.  52m.  p. 

m. 

654.22 

30.3 

86.8 

4,508 

At  the  foot  of  the  peninsula;  very 
violent  gale. 

Ih.  36m.  p. 

m. 

643.16 

31.0 

89.5 

5,020 

At  the  top  of  the  peninsula;  blue 
slcy,  with  scattered  llcpcy 
clouds;  heavy  near  the  hori- 
zon; wind  S.  20°  E. 

11 

6h.  50m.  a. 

m. 

652.04 

13.0 

53.0 

4,360 

The  whole  sky  covered  with  rainy 
clouds;  thunder,  lightning,  and 
lain  almost  all  the  night. 

8h.  a.  m. 

. 

652.57 

14.2 

.')8.0 

4,363 

Clearing  up;  calm. 

9h.  a.  m. 

- 

652.65 

11.9 

53.0 

4,354 

Strong  wind  from  N.  25°  E.; 
rainy  clouds. 

lOh.  a.  m. 

- 

653.01 

12.7 

55.0 

4,324 

Strong  wind  from  N.  25°  E.; 
rainy  clouds. 

llh.  a.  m. 

- 

653.60 

13.7 

57.0 

4,313 

Sirong  wind  from  N.  25°  E.; 
some  blue  sky. 

Noon 

- 

653.62 

12.2 

54.0 

4,293 

Sky  covered  with  rainy  clouds; 
strong  wind  from  N.  25°  E. 

Ih.  p.  m. 

- 

f.54.06 

14.8 

60.9 

4,315 

Sky  covered  with  rainy  clouds; 
some  blue  sky. 

2h.  p.  m. 

655.33 

22  7 

80.0 

4,353 

More  clear  sky;  sun;  moderate 
wind  from  N.  25°  E.  Free 
thermometer  in  the  sun. 

Table  oftnefeorological  observations — Continued. 


Thermometer. 

Alti- 
tudes. 

Date. 

Time. 

Barom. 

Remarks. 

^  9%JA^M%Jt^  A&  fcJ  * 

Attached. 

Free. 

1843. 

Millim. 

Cent. 

Fahr. 

Feet. 

Sept.  11 

3h.  p.  m. 

655.88 

22.7 

64.0 

4,289 

Clear;  clouds  scattered;  moderate 
wind  from  N.  25°  E. 

4h.  p.  m. 

656.65 

21.8 

63.0 

4,247 

Clear;  clouds  scattered;  sun; 
moderate  wind  from  N.  25°  E. 

5h.  p.  m. 

656.76 

20.6 

60.2 

4,222 

Clear;  clouds  scattered;  sun; 
moderate  wind  from  N.  35°  E. 

Sunset 

655.50 

9.8 

52.3 

4,080 

Clear. 

12 

Sunrise 

657.56 

2.3 

33.0 

4,030 

Clear  and  calm. 

Sunset 

€55.48 

9.2 

47.2 

4,119 

Clear  and  clouds;  calm. 

13 

Sunrise 

654.88 

3.0 

35.5 

4,119 

Clear  and  clouds;  calm. 

4h.  50m.  p.  m. 

657.51 

27.2 

82.0 

4,283 

Clear;  scattered  clouds;  sun; 
calm. 

Sunaet 

656.76 

18.8 

66.5 

4,179 

Clear;  scattered  clouds;  sun; 
calm. 

14 

Sunrise 

655.12 

8.2 

46.4 

4,179 

Clear;  few  scattered  clouds;  slight 
breeze  from  NW. 

3h.  50m.  p.  m. 

651.38 

30.0 

80.0 

4,564 

Clear  and  clouds;  sun;  moderate 
breeze  from  SE. 

Sunset 

650.25 

20.6 

67.5 

4,444 

Clear;  moderate  breeze  from  SE. 

15 

Sunrise 

648.28 

3.5 

37.5 

4,444 

Clear;  horizon  partly  covered  with 
cumuli;  air  from  NW. 

3h.  43m.  p.  m. 

640.15 

30.3 

83.0 

5,081 

Clear  and  scattered  clouds;  sun; 
fresh  wind  from  S. 

Sunset 

638.80 

22.6 

74.0 

.5,028 

Clear  and  scattered  clouds;  sun; 
fresh  wind  from  S. 

16 

Sunrise 

637.07 

11.1 

52.0 

5,028 

Calm  and  clear. 

3h.  56m.  p.  m. 

604.04 

14.6 

58.0 

6,280 

Dividing  ridge,  70  feet  below  the 
summit;  violent  gale  from  N. 
65°  W. ;  cumuli  in  same  quar- 
ter. 

6h.  20m.  p.  m. 

630.79 

11.1 

50.5 

5,144 

In  a  valley  below  the  divide;  sky 
clear;  cold  wind  from  NW. 

17 

6h.    9m.    a.  m. 

631.37 

—5.5 

21.5 

5,144 

Sky  clear  and  calm. 

31i.  56m.  p.  m. 

642.85 

20.0 

65.2 

4,849 

Sky  clear;  wind  from  W. 

Sunset 

642.35 

15.0 

58.6 

4,667 

Sky  clear;  wind  from  W. 

18 

Sunrise 

643.43 

—2.9 

25.1 

4,667 

Clear;  calm;  bank  of  fog  in  N. 

Sunset 

643.31 

16.4 

60.5 

4,779 

Fort  Hall;  clear  and  calm. 

19 

Sunset 

645.12 

6.3 

43.0 

4,764 

Sky  covered  with  rainy  dark 
ciouds;  strong  wind  from  S. 
25°  W. 

20 

Sunrise 

645.81 

3.7 

34.0 

4,764 

Rain  and  snow  during  the  whole 
night;  wind  N. 

Oh.  13m.  p.  m. 

649.12 

8.6 

44.8 

4,434 

Wind  N.;  sky  covered  with 
clouds. 

21 

Sunrise 

651.48 

—  0.2 

29.5 

4,239 

Clear  and  calm;  rain  last  night. 

9h.  50m.  a.  m. 

652.48 

12.0 

50.2 

4,342 

Clear  and  calm;  clouds  in  horizon. 

lOh.  50m.a.  m. 

652.59 

17.2 

55.6 

4,387 

Almost  cloudy  all  over;  air  SE. 

Sunset 

649.94 

9.5 

48.0 

4,504 

22 

Sunrise 

646.00 

5.6 

41.0 

4,504 

Wind  S.;  overcast  with  rainy 
clouds;  begins  to  rain. 

Sunset 

646,  39 

6.0 

42.5 

4,519 

Moderate  wind  from  S. ;  sky  part- 
ly clear;  partly  covered  with 
rainy  clouds  for  the  greatest 
part  of  the  day. 

23 

Sunrise 

647.50 

0.8 

32.0 

4,519 

Calm;  overcast;  snow  falling 
thick. 

7h.  a.  m. 

647.76 

6.1 

32.0 

4,487 

Calm;  overcast;  snow  falling 
thick. 

Table  of  meteorological  observations 

— Continued. 

Thermometer. 

AlU. 
tudes. 

Date. 

Time. 

Barom. 

T?pmnrks- 

JI%C11J<U  A.3« 

Attached. 

Free. 

1843. 

Millim. 

Cent. 

Fahr. 

Feet. 

Sept.  23 

8h.  a.  m. 

649.12 

12.8 

32.0 

4,463 

Calm;  overcast;  snowfallingthick. 

9h.  a.  m. 

648.90 

10.2 

35.0 

4,380 

Calm;  overcast;  snow  falling 
thick. 

lOh.  a.  m. 

648.31 

8.8 

40.0 

4,511 

Air  from  N.  20°  W.;  snow  fall- 
ing not  so  thick. 

llh.  a.  m. 

649.29 

18.3 

43.0 

4,531 

Heavy  wind  from  N. ;  snow  turn- 
ed into  rain. 

Noon 

649.16 

17.8 

43.0 

4,534 

A  little  rain;  somewhat  clearer 

in  the  N.  and  E.  horizon. 

Ih.  p.  m. 

648.95 

20.2 

47.0 

4,566 

More  clearing  up  in  that  comer; 
a  little  blue  spot. 

2h.  p.  m. 

648.65 

16.4 

47.5 

4,567 

More  moderate;  no  rain;  more 
clear  sky  in  N. 

3h.  p.  m. 

649.44 

18.6 

49.5 

4,554 

More  moderate;  no  rain;  more 
clear  sky  in  N. 

4h.  p.  m. 

649.43 

17.8 

49.5 

4,550 

More  moderate;  no  rain;  more 
clear  sky  in  N. 

5h.  p.  m. 

649.50 

18.2 

49.5 

4,550 

Wind  N.;  sky  improving  from 
NW.  to  NE. 

Sunset 

649.99 

19.8 

45.5 

4,520 

Nearly  calm;  clear  over  head; 
clouds  scattered. 

7h.  p.  m. 

649.80 

19.0 

45.0 

4,521 

Moderate  wind  from  N.;  sky 
cloudy;  clear  spots  between. 

8h.  p.  m. 

649.80 

17.0 

42.5 

4,499 

Air  from  N.;  sky  cloudy;  soma 
clear  spots. 

9h.  p.  m. 

651.14 

14.2 

41.0 

4,428 

More  clear. 

lOh.  p.  m. 

650.88 

12.9 

40.0 

4,422 

Cloudy;  a  few  stars  peeping  out. 

llh.  p.  m. 

650.94 

12.7 

37.0 

4,406 

Air  from  NE.;  sky  bright,  ex- 
cept in  E. 

Midnight 

650.51 

8.6 

37.0 

4,403 

Air  from  NE.;  southern  sky 
nearly  overcast;  northern  sky 
partly  bright,  partly  covered 
with  scattered  clouds. 

24 

Sunrise 

651.55 

15.6 

35.0 

4,388 

Calm;  overcast;  clear  in  the  W. 
horizon. 

Noon 

653.60 

13.0 

53.2 

4,357 

Breeze  from  S. ;  sky  clear;  some 
scattered  clouds. 

Sunset 

654.85 

10.5 

54.0 

4,240 

Clear;  breeze  from  S. 

25 

Sunrise 

65.'i.96 

15.7 

46.8 

4,240 

Clear;  gale  from  S. 

2h.  p.  m. 

6.55.25 

17.8 

64.0 

4,297 

Clear  and  clouds;  sun;  wind  S. 

3h.  p.  m. 

654.69 

16.5 

61.5 

4,305 

Clear  and  clouds;  wind  iS.  72°  E. 

4h.  p.  m. 

653.99 

15.6 

60.0 

4,324 

More  clouds. 

5h.  p.  m. 

653.62 

14.0 

57.0 

4,319 

More  clouds;  dark  in  the  W. 

Sunset 

6f3.07 

12.8 

55.0 

4,252 

Almost  overcast. 

26 

6h.  20m.  a.  m. 

653.39 

6.0 

40.2 

4,252 

Cloudy.;  clear;  rain  last  night; 
wind  S.  25°  W. 

Noon 

650.84 

9.8 

49.2 

4,340 

Cloudy;  rainy  appearance;  fresh 
wind  from  S  W . 

Sunset 

654.28 

8.0 

44.5 

4,045 

Clouds  and  clear;  wind  sharp 
from  SW. 

27 

Sunrise 

656.35 

—1.5 

24.0 

4,045 

Clear  and  calm;  white  frost  last 
night. 

Sunset 

651.46 

8.0 

46.5 

4,367 

Overcast  with  clouds;  cold  wind 
from  SE. 

28 

Sunrise 

646.16 

6.4 

40.0 

4,367 

Overca«;t  with  rainy  clouds;  slight 
breeze  from  S. 

Sunset 

654.60 

6.8 

45.0 

3,990 

Gale  from  S.  70°  W.;  clouds 
and  clear;  thunder  in  N. 

Table  of  meteorological  observations — Cotilinued. 


Thermometer. 

Time. 

Barom. 

Alti- 
tudes. 

Remarks. 

Date. 

Attached 

Free. 

1843. 

Millim. 

Cent. 

Fahr. 

Feet. 

Sept.  29 

Sunrise 

660.54 

4.2 

36.4 

3,990 

Cloudy  and  clear  overhead;  wind 
S.  70°  W. 

30 

Sunrise 

663.35 

12.0 

28.5 

3,727 

Light  clouds;  air  from  SE. 

Sunset 

682.21 

18.6 

65.5 

3,173 

Clear;  few  clouds;  wind  squally 
from  W. 

Oct.      1 

Sunrise 

677.10 

19.5 

55.5 

3,173 

Clear;  wind  from  W. 

Sunset 

688.21 

21.8 

74.0 

2,761 

Clear  and  calm. 

2 

Sunrise 

989.56 

16.0 

48.0 

2,761 

Clear  and  calm. 

Smiset 

684.90 

20.5 

70.0 

2,902 

Clear  and  calm. 

•3 

Sunrise 

684.81 

20.2 

42.0 

2,902 

Air  from  S.  65"  E. ;  Ught  clouds 
and  clear. 

4 

Sunrise 

689.87 

14.2 

47.0 

2,649 

Calm;  cumuli;  clear. 

Sun.set 

673.04 

13.0 

57.5 

3,172 

Cloudy;  gale  from  NW. 

5 

Sunrise 

677.65 

—  0.2 

32.0 

3,172 

Calm  and  clear. 

Sunset 

672.65 

9.2 

47.0 

3,226 

Overcast;  wind  NW. 

6 

Sunrise 

675.99 

7.7 

46.0 

3,226 

Overcast;  rainy  appearance;  wind 
from  NW. 

Sunset 

678.41 

10.7 

50.8 

3,061 

Clear;  some  scattered  cumuli; 
sun;  wind  NW. 

7 

Sunrise 

679.09 

7.9 

45.5 

3,061 

Clear;  wind  NW. 

Sunset 

698.91 

14.8 

57.0 

2,302 

Clear;  breeze  from  NW. 

8 

Sunrise 

697.85 

4.8 

38.2 

2,302 

Calm  and  clear. 

Sunset 

702.65 

16.9 

62.0 

2,197 

Calm;  clear,  but  cloudy  in  the 
horizon. 

9 

Sunrise 

699.76 

2.3 

36.0 

2,197 

Clear  and  calm. 

Sunset 

702.26 

20.6 

68.5 

2,192 

Clear  and  scattered  cumuli;  calm. 

10 

Sunrise 

704.11 

8.3 

43.0 

2,192 

Clear  over  head;  cumuU  in  the 
horizon;  calm. 

Sunset 

706.21 

17.3 

62.5 

1,998 

Clear  and  calm. 

11 

Sunrise 

706.44 

0.8 

33.0 

1,998 

Clear;  air  from  E. 

Sunset 

706.85 

19.2 

64.0 

2,000 

Clear  and  calm;  few  scattered 
cumuli. 

12 

Sunrise 

704.78 

—  4.3 

23.0 

2,000 

Clear  and  calm. 

Sunset 

709.43 

17.2 

62.0 

1,879 

Clear  and  calm. 

13 

Sunrise 

709.08 

—  0.8 

28.8 

1,879 

Clear;  few  cumuli;  air  from  W. 

Sunset 

703.46 

15.5 

59.0 

2,144 

Clear  and  light  clouds;  calm. 

14 

Sunrise 

705:46 

9.0 

46.0 

2,144 

Clear  and  calm. 

Sunset 

684.68 

10.8 

50.0 

2,802 

Clear  and  calm. 

15 

Sunrise 

685.25 

5.0 

40.0 

2,802 

Clear;  few  light  clouds';  calm. 

Sunset 

678.00 

16.2 

61.0 

3,100 

Clear,  and  some  cumuli;  calm. 

16 

Sunrise 

674.73 

—  6.6 

16.0 

3,100 

Calm;  clear,  with  few  cumuli. 

Sunset 

676.85 

16.0 

60.8 

3,092 

Wind  E. ;  clear  and  clouds. 

17 

Sunrise 

677.66 

—  2.3 

25.0 

3,092 

Clear  and  clouds;  calm. 

Sunset 

682.34 

17.0 

62.5 

2,940 

Cloudy;  wind  SE. 

18 

Sunrise 

684.65 

18.6 

48.0 

2,940 

Overcast;  rain  began  an  hour  be- 
fore sunrise;  calm. 

Sunset 

690.40 

10.0 

47.0 

2,607 

Cloudy;  rain  in  the  morning;  air 
fromN. 

19 

Sunrise 

688.72 

3.5 

35.0 

2,607 

Misty;  dew  point  =a  32".  5  Fahr. ; 
calm. 

Oh.  44m.  p.  m. 

688.72 

12.4 

52.0 

2,700 

At  the  foot  of  Blue  mountains. 

Sunset 

657.20 

7.6 

46.5 

3,831 

Blue  mountains. 

20 

Sunrise 

659.61 

4.3 

37.5 

a,  831 

Clear  and  calm;  a  bank  of  clouds 
in  SE.  horizon. 

8h.  26m.  a.  m. 

636.82 

10.6 

47.6 

4,766 

Blue  mountains. 

Sunset 

628.54 

2.8 

36.3 

4,989 

Blue  mountains;  clear  and  caUn. 

21 

Sunrise 

628.65 

0.8 

30.0 

4,989 

Blue  mountains;  clear  and  oalm. 

Table  i 

of  observations  with  the  thermometer. 

Date. 

Time. 

Thermometer. 

Remarks. 

1843. 

Deg.  Fahr. 

Oct    27 

Sunrise 

- 

Fort  Walahwalah. 

Sunset 

66.0 

28 

funrisfi 

52.0 

Sunset 

59.0 

29 

Sunrise 

38.0 

Sunset 

50.0 

30 

Sunrise 

28.0 

Sunset 

53.0 

31 

Sunrise 

24.0 

Sunset 

54.0 

Nov.     1 

Sunrise 

34.0 

Sunset 

56.3 

2 

Sunrise 

36.0 

Sunset 

46.0 

3 

Sunrise 

32.0 

Sunset 

44.0 

4 

Sunrise 

30.0 

Sunset 

52.0 

5 

Sunrise 

36.0 

Sunset 

50.0 

6 

Sunrise 

34.0 

7 

Sunset 

49.0 

8 

Sunrise 

42.0 

12 

Sunrise 

44.0 

Sunset 

50.0 

13 

Sunrise 

42.0 

Sunset 

51.5 

23 

Sunrise 

36.0 

Sunset 

41.0 

24 

Sunrise 

38.0 

Sunset 

40.5 

25 

Sunrise 

26.0 

26 

Sunrise 

20.0 

27 

Sunrise 

—  2.5 

Sunset 

28.0 

28 

Sunrise 

18.0 

Sunset 

28.0 

29 

Sunrise 

21.0 

30 

Sunrise 

37.0 

Sunset 

30.0 

Dec.      I 

Sunrise 

32.0 

Sunset 

42.0 

2 

Sunrise 

28.0 

Sunset 

34.0 

3 

Sunrise 

18.5 

4 

Sunrise 

19.fi 

Sunset 

34.0 

5 

Sunrise 

38.0 

Sunset 

28.2 

6 

Sunrise 

26.0 

Sunset 

40.0 

7 

Sunset 

42.0 

8 

Sunrise 

10.0 

Sunset 

42.0 

9 

Sunrise 

21.0 

Sunset 

39.0 

10 

Sunrise 

10.0 

Sunset 

38.5 

11 

Sunrise 

18.5 

Sunset 

39.5 

12 

Suitfiae 

32.0 

Table  of  ohst 

'rvatlons  with  the  thermometer — Continued. 

Date. 

Time. 

Thermometer. 

Remarks. 

1843. 

Deg.  Fahr. 

Dec.    12 

Sunset 

- 

39.5 

13 

Sunrise 

- 

0.0 

Sunset 

- 

26.0 

14 

Sunrise 

- 

10. 0 

Sunset 

- 

32.0 

15 

Sunrisfe 

- 

25.0 

Sunset 

- 

36.0 

16 

Sunrise 

- 

32.0 

17 

Sunrise 

- 

39.0 

Sunset 

- 

62.0 

18 

Sunrise 

- 

34.0 

Sunset 

- 

48.0 

19 

Sunrise 

- 

29.0 

Sunset 

- 

46.0 

20 

Sunrise 

- 

36.0 

Sunset 

- 

39.0 

21 

Sunrise 

- 

33.0 

Sunset 

- 

43,0 

SpHng  61°;  brisk  SE.  wind  all  day. 

22 

Daylight 

- 

39.0 

Wind  S. ;  overcast. 

23 

Daylight 

- 

38.0 

Sunset 

- 

39.0 

Cloudy;  little  rain. 

24 

Daylight 

- 

31.0 

Sunset 

- 

37.0 

Fair  day;  light  breeze  from  S. 

25 

Daylight 

- 

32.0 

Sunset 

- 

33.0 

Winds.;  fair. 

26 

Daylight 

- 

22.0 

Clouds  rising  around  the  horizoft. 

Sunset 

. 

30.0 

Cloudy;  light  SE.  wind. 

27 

Daylight 

- 

20.0 

Clear;  wind  SE. 

Sunset 

- 

23.0 

Calm;  sun  faint. 

28 

Daylight 

- 

18.0 

Calm;  reddish  clouds. 

Sunset 

. 

34.0 

Gentle  SE.  breeze. 

29 

Dayhght 

- 

33.0 

Light  snow  falling. 

Sunset 

. 

19.0 

Clear;  wind  WSW. 

30 

Daylight 

14.0 

Sunset 

. 

19.0 

Fair;  wind  S.  80°  W. 

31 

Daylight 

- 

17.0 

Sunset 

- 

27.0 

Fair;  moderate  SW.  wind. 

1844. 

Jan.      1 

Daylight 

- 

24.0 

Fair;  light  clouds  in  E. 

Sunset 

. 

28.0 

2 

Daylight 

- 

26.0 

Thick  snow  falling. 

3 

Daylight 

- 

iO.O 

Heavy  mist. 

Sunset 

- 

23.0 

Still  misty. 

4 

7h.  12m.  a. 

m. 

20.0 

Sunset 

> 

24.0 

Dense  mist  all  day. 

5 

6h.  25m.  a. 

ra. 

12.0 

Sunset 

. 

22.0 

Wind  NE. ;  dense  mist  as  on  the  two  preYious 

days. 

6 

Sunri.se 

_. 

8.0 

Mist  breaking  away;  clear  bright  sunshine. 

Sunset 

. 

21.0 

Clear;  nearly  calm. 

7 

7h.  12m.  a. 

m. 

6.0 

Slight  mist. 

Noon 

- 

31.0 

Evening 

- 

24.0 

Clear  sunset. 

8 

7h.  45m.  a. 

m. 

20.0 

Brisk  NE.  breeze;  bright  clouds  in  W. 

Noon 

_ 

35.0 

Evening 

. 

30.0 

Clear;  wind  from  ^"W  .—Temperature  of  the 

main 

spring  at  its  edge  206°;  thx  centre  is  doubtless 

at  the  boiling  point. 

9 

7h.  25m.  a. 

m. 

23.0 

Sunset 

. 

33.0 

A  little  snow  falling. 

10 

7h.  15m.  a. 

ra. 

22.0 

Sunset 

- 

29.0 

Overcast. 

Table  of  observations  with  the  thermometer — Continued. 


Date. 


Time. 


1844. 
Jan.    11 

12 

13 

14 


15 


16 


17 


18 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 

24 

^5 
26 


37 


Feb. 


Thermometer. 


28 

29 
30 

31 
1 


Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

3h.  14m.  p.  m. 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Uh.  ^,fim.  p.  m. 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 
Sunrise 

4h.  5m.  p.  m. 

Sunset 

Sunnsc 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunrise 

llh.  15m.  a.m. 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

4h.  25m.  p.  m. 


Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunrise 

Noon 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

6h.  15m.  p.  m. 

Suiuise 

Sunset 

3h.  45m.  p.  m. 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

9h.  p.  m. 


Deg.  Fahr. 
15.0 
20.0 
33.0 
2i^.O 
29.0 
31.0 
26.0 
28.0 
26.0 
31.0 
34.0 
34.0 
35.0 
17.0 
42.0 
28.0 
49.5 
39.0 
37.0 
35.0 
14.0 
41.0 
32.0 
30.0 

29.0 
30.0 

37.0 

36.0 
40.0 
42.0 
45.0 
36.0 
2.0 
2.0 
30.0 
47.0 
12.0 
33.0 
34.0 

27.0 

40.0 

34.0 

31.0 

39.0 

25.0 

27.0 

40.0 

24.0 

24.0 

3-'i.0 

31.0 

14.0 

26.0 

28.0 

20.0 

40.0 

12.0 


Remarks. 


Day  fair;  bright  sun. 

Partially  overcast;  wind  SW. 

Overcas"t;  winds.  20°  E. 

Snow  falling  thick;  wind  variable. 

Nearly  clear;  wind  N.  10°  W. 

Temperature  of  boiling  water  204°.4;  wind  N.  6°  W. 

Cloudy;  snow  falling;  wind  W. 

Clear;  fair. 

Fair;  light  wind  N.  50°  W.  all  day. 

Calm;  sun  bright. 

Reddish  clouds  in  E. 

Temperaiureofboilingwaier  2Q2°.7;\\indS.2Q°W. 

Snow  falling  from  9h.  till  llh.  a.  m;  sun  faint. 


Temperature  of  boiling  water  204°.  3;  wind  W. 

Overcast;  wind  SW. 

Snow  falling  fast  from  SW. ;  snow  ceased  at  lOh. 

a.  m. ;  sun  shone  out. 
Calm;  clear  sky. 
Wind  S.  2.1°  W. ;  clouds  rising  in  horizon;  light 

snow  falling  from  9h.  a.  m.  to  Ih.  p.  m. 
Temperature  of  boiling  water  204°. 2;  wind  high 

fVomSW. 
Sky  clear;  high  SW.  wind. 
Moderate  W.  wind;  dark  clouds  in  N. 
Calm;  sky  nearly  clear. 

Sky  clear;  sun  bright. 

Fair  day;  nearly  calm. 

Perfectly  clear;  calm. 

Temperature  of  bjiling  luater  202°. 2;  calm. 


Sky  unclouded  all  the  day. 

Temperature  of  boiling  water  202°;  light  breeze 
fromNW. 

Clear;  sun  bright;  moderate  SE.  wind. 

Reddish  clouds  in  horizon  to  E.  and  N.;  wind  SE. 

Calm  and  cloudy. 

Clouds  breaking  away. 

Cumuli  in  SE.   and  N. 

Overcast;  snow  falUng. 

Snowing  all  day. 


calm. 


Calm;  clear;  bright  sunshine. 

Temperature  of  boiling  water  201°.  5; 

Nearly  clear;  calm. 

Overcast. 

Temperature  of  boiling  water  201°. 5;  nearly  calm. 

Light  white  clouds  in  E. 

Strong  SW.  wind. 


Table  of  observations  with  the  thermometer — Continued. 


Date. 

Time. 

Thermometer. 

Remarks. 

1844. 

Deg.  Fahr. 

Feb.      5 

Sunrise 

10.0 

Noon 

48.0 

Clear  ;  moderate  S.  wind. 

Sunset 

24.0 

6 

Sunrise 

16.0 

Sky  unclouded ;  light  breeze  SW. 

Noon 

37.0 

Sky  unclouded ;  calm. 

Sunset 

26.0 

Oh.  25m.  p  m.  - 

37.5 

Temperature  of  boiling  water  200". 5;  calm. 

7 

Sunrise 

9.5 

Sunset 

28.0 

Sky  perfectly  clear  the  whole  day ;  light  variable  wind. 

8 

Sunrise 

—  2.5 

—  2.0 

Sun  shining  full  on  high  peaks. 

0.0 

Sun  shining  full  on  valley;  sky  cloudless;  calm. 

1  3h.  40m.  p.  m.  - 

38.0 

Temptratureofboilingwater  199®. 7;  light  easterly 
breeze;  nearly  clear. 

Sunset 

36.0 

Wind  E. ;  whitish  clohds  rising  in  the  horizon. 

9 

-          . 

28.5 

Just  before  sunrise. 

Sunrise 

29.0 

Strong  SW.  vrind;  light  fcud,  driving  rapidly. 

Noon 

44.0 

Moderate  WSW.  wind;  nearly  clear;  a  few  wind 
clouds  in  W. 

Sunset 

24.0 

W  ind  variable ;  nearly  clear ;  a  few  wind  clouds  in  W. 

10 

-          ~ 

36.0 

30m.  before  sunrise. 

Sunrise 

35.0 

Nearly  calm;  cloudy  in  SW. 

Noon 

42.0 

Wind  SE.;  white  clouds  in  W. 

Oh.  55m  p.  m.  - 

42.5 

Temperature  of  boiling  water  199°. 5;  moderate 
SE.  wind;  sky  nearly  clear. 

Sunset 

37.0 

Moderate  SE.  wind;  sky  partially  overcast. 

8h.  p.  m. 

39.0 

11 

Sunrise 

33.0 

Entirely  overcast;  wind  shifting. 

Noon 

35.0 

Clouds  breaking  away;  violent  gusts  of  wind  from  W. 

Sunset 

33.5 

Clearing  off;  moderate  wind  N.  80°  W. 

12 

Sunrise 

32.5 

Calm;  sky  nearly  clear. 

Sunset 

35.0 

Sky  clear;  gentle  W.  breeze. 

8h.  p.  m. 

33.0 

13 

>                    .                          - 

34.0 

30m.  before  sunrise. 

Sunrise 

33.0 

Calm;  cumuU  in  E.;  sun  faint. 

Sunset 

35.0 

Overcast;  calm. 

14 

Sunrise 

21.0 

Sky  clear;  moderate  westerly  wind. 

Sunset 

32.5 

Calm;  sky  nearly  clear. 

16 

Sunrise 

31.0 

Calm;  clouds  in  SW. ;  sun  faint. 

Noon 

41.0 

Calm;  watery  clouds  moving  from  SW.  to  NE. 

Sunset 

31.6 

Calm;  sky  nearly  clear. 

16 

Sunrise 

30.0 

Wind  SW. ;  rain  clouds  in  E. 

Sunset 

33.0 

Clear;  moderate  S.  wind. 

17 

Sunrise 

23.0 

Entirely  clear;  calm. 

Sunset 

32.0 

Entirely  clear;  calm. 

18 

Sunrise 

22.5 

Sky  very  clear;  nearly  calm. 

Sunset 

31.0 

Calm;  rain  clouds  in  W. 

19 

Sunrise 

23.0 

Cloudless  sky;  calm. 

Sunset 

32.0 

Cloudless  sky;  gentle  breeze  8.  60°  E. 

20 

Sunrise 

22.0 

Clear;  calm.' 

Sunset 

37.0 

Sky  clear;  brisk  wind  S.  70°  W. 

Ih.  41m. p. m.- 

47.0 

Temperature  of  boiling  water  197°. 5;  moderate 
wind  S.  68°  W. 

21 

Sunrise 

32.0 

Moderate  W.  wind;  scattered  watery  clouds. 

Noon 

46.0 

Cumuli  all  over  the  heavens;  nearly  calm;  snow 
felling  on  the  mountains  belund;  rain  on  the  edge 
of  the  valley  beyond. 

Sunset 

30.0 

Sky  still  cloudy;  strong  breeze  N.  65*  E. 

Table  of  observations  with  the  thermometer — Continued. 


Date. 

1844. 
Feb.   22 


23 

24 


March  9 
10 


11 
18 
13 

14 
16 
16 

17 
18 
19 
20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

26 

26 

27 

28 
29 

ao 

31 


Time. 


SunriBe 
Noon    " 
Ih.  15m. 


Thermometer. 


Remarks. 


p.  m. 


Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

2h.  45m.  p.  m. 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

4h.  20m.  p.  m. 


Deg.  Fahr. 
29.0 
40.0 
37.5 

31.0 
26.0 
48.0 
27.0 
60.0 

62.0 
34.0 
63.0 
64.0 


Stuu-ise 

. 

46.0 

Sunset 

- 

66.0 

Siuirise 

. 

31.0 

Sunset 

- 

63  0 

Sunrise 

- 

36.0 

Noon 

- 

76.0 

Sunset 

- 

68.0 

Sunrise 

- 

45.0 

Sunset 

- 

76.0 

Sunrise 

- 

44.0 

Sunset 

- 

74.0 

Sunrise 

- 

40.0 

Noon 

. 

84.0 

Sunset 

- 

68.0 

Sunrise 

. 

46.0 

Sunset 

. 

63.0 

Sunrise 

- 

38.0 

Sunset 

64.0 

Sunrise 

. 

41.0 

Sunset 

- 

68.0 

Sunrise 

. 

40.0 

Noon 

. 

81.0 

Noon 

. 

96.0 

Sunset 

- 

70.0 

Sunrise 

- 

4t.0 

Sunset 

. 

64.0 

Sunrise 

. 

36.0 

Sunset 

. 

64.0 

Surprise 

- 

44.0 

Sunset 

. 

63.0 

Sunrise 

. 

42.0 

Sunset 

• 

61.0 

Sunrise 

• 

4.^.0 

Sunset 

- 

63.0 

Sunrise 

. 

36.0 

Sunset 

- 

58  0 

Sunrise 

. 

45.0 

Sunset 

. 

60.0 

Sunrise 

• 

a.o 

Sunrise 

. 

36.0" 

Sunset 

. 

60.0 

Simriae 

. 

53.0 

Noon 

- 

55.0 

Sunset 

. 

66.0 

Suiuise 

. 

54.0 

Noon 

. 

62.0 

Sun  faint;  moderate  wind  N.  55°  E. 
Light  watery  rlouds  in  S. ;  wind  N.  40°  E. 
Temperature  of  boiling   water   198°.  7;    watery 

clouds  in  S. ;  calm. 
Sky  neariy  clear;  wind  N.  50°  E. 
CumuU  around  the  horizon;  moderate  S.  wind. 
Sky  clear;  calm. 
Sky  clear;  wind  E. 
Temperature  of  boiling  water  206";  sky  clear;  light 

breeze  from  N. 
Light  grayish  clouds  in  S.;  moderate  SE.  \nnd. 
Light  grayish  clouds;  sky  clear;  calm. 
Sky  cloudy;  wind  SW. 
Temperature  of  boiling  waier  2 11°.  6;  brisk  S. 

wind;  sky  nearly  clear. 
Sky  partially  overcast;  slight  rain  falling. 
Sky  clear;  no  air  stirring. 
Sky  unclouded;  calm. 
Clear  sky;  brisk  SW.  wind. 
No  clouds  visible;  calm. 
Strong  westerly  breeze. 

Light  watery  clouds  floating  in  hor.;  wind  from  NW. 
Moderate  wind  N.  10°  W. ;  unclouded. 
Clear;  perfectly  calm. 
Calm  and  cloudless. 
Reddish  clouds  around  the  setting  sun . 
No  wind;  sky  clear. 

No  air  stirring;  clear. 
Sky  clear;  calm. 
Slight  haze  in  N. ;  calm. 
Clear;  calm. 
Clear;  calm. 

Sky  unclouded ;  no  wind. 
Few  scattering  clouds  in  W. 
Calm;  unclouded. 
In  shade;  white  clouds  in  E. 
In  sun;  slight  breeze  N.  10°  E. 
Clear  sky;  no  wind. 
Sky  cloudy;  calm. 
Dark  clouds  in  E.;  wind  N.  70°  W. 
Scattered  wind  clouds;  wind  W. 
Very  cloudy;,  wind  S.  10°  E. 
Sky  nearly  clear;  moderate  SW.  wind. 
Reddish  clouds  in  W. ;  wind  SW. 
Sky  clear;  calm. 
Clear;  wind  S.  80°  W. 
Cloudy  in  E.;  sun  faint;  calm. 
Cloudy  in  horizon;  gentle  westerly  breexe. 
Sun  faint;  partially  overcast. 
Calm;  nearly  clear. 
Sky  overcast;  no  wind- 
Very  cloudy;  appearance  of  rain;  high  W.  wind. 
Calm;  clear. 

Few  dark  clouds  in  E.;  calm. 
Cloudy;  sun  faint. 
Overcast;  slight  rain  falling. 
Incessant  rain;  moderate  wind  8.  15°  W. 
Sky  clouded;  wind  SW. 
Heavy  rain;  wind  S.  80°  W. 


Table  of  observations   with  the  thermomeier — Continued. 


Dat3. 

Time. 

Thermometer . 

Wet  bulb. 

1844. 

Deg.  'Fafir. 

Deg. 

Mar.   31 

Sunset 

58.0 

April     1 

Sunrise 

52.0 

— 

Sunset 

60.0        1 

_ 

2 

Sunrise 

48.0        1 

„ 

Noon 

62.0 

_ 

Sunset 

.54.0 

«. 

3 

Sunrise 

43.0        ! 

_ 

Sunset 

66.0        j 

- 

4 

Sunrise 

41.0 

Sunset 

60.0 

_ 

& 

Sunrise 

37.0 

_ 

Sunset 

68.0 

_ 

6 

Sunrise 

35.0 

_ 

Noon 

90.0 

_ 

Noon 

98.0 

- 

' 

Sunset 

72.0 

7 

Sunrise 

49.0 

_ 

8 

Sunrise 

S5.0 

_ 

Sunset 

52.0 

- 

9 

Sunrise 

38.0 

Sunset 

52.0 

- 

10 

Sunrise 

36  0 

Sunset 

66.0 

_ 

11 

Sunriee 

37.0 

_ 

Sunset 

57.0 

- 

12 

Sunrise 

32.0 

_ 

Sunset 

62.0 

-1 

13 

Sunrise 

45.0 

— 

Sunset           .  - 

.W.O 

_ 

14 

Sunrise 

40.0 

_ 

Sunset 

53.0 

_ 

15 

Sunrise 

40.0 

^ 

Sunset 

56.0 

"" 

16 

Sunrise 

48.0 

Sunset 

54.0 

„ 

17 

Sunrise 

40.0 

_ 

18 

SonriM 

52.0 

- 

Sunset 

48.0 

19 

Sunrise 

30.0 

- 

Sunset 

54.9 

- 

20 

Sunrise 

47.0 

_ 

21 

Sunrise 

47.0 

Noon 

74  0 

- 

Noon 

82.0 

- 

Sunset 

53.0 

— 

22 

Sunrise 

47.0 

- 

i  Sunset 

60  0 

- 

Sunset 

_ 

- 

23 

Sunrise 

38.5 

38.0 

Sunset 

\           54.0 

50.0 

Remarks. 


Clearing  off;  wind  SW. 

Sky  nearly  clear;  calm. 

Dark  clouds  coming  up  in  W.^  calm. 

Cloudy;  light  easterly  wind. 

Rain  from  SW.;  overcast. 

Brisk  wind  S.  15°  E. ;  clearing  off. 

Sky  nearly  elear;  wind  E. 

Few   clouds  in   SE.;  strong  breeze  N. 

60°  W. 
Slight  rain  falling;  wind  S.  60°  W. 
Raining;  wind  from  SW. 
Sky  dear,  calm. 
Sky  clear,  calm. 
Sky  cloudless;  no  wind. 
In  shade. 
In  suui    sky   nearly   clear;   light    SE. 

breeze. 
Wind  S.  40°  E.;  cloudy  in  NE. 
Raining;  overclouded. 
Wind  N.  60°  VV.^  sky  nearly  clear. 
Heavy  clouds  m  W.;  moderate  wind  S. 

80°  W. 
Sky  clear  and  calm. 
Dark  cumuli  in  W..;  light  breeze  N.  &&* 

W. 
Perfectly  clear;  no  air  stirring. 
Nearly  clear;  calm. 
Sky  overcast;  cahn. 
Cloudy  in  horizon;  high  wind  in  N.  45"* 

W. 
Smoky;  sun  faint;  calm. 
Dense  smoke;  sun  obscured. 
Smoky  appearance  continues;  sun  faint. 
Sky  nearly  clear;  calm. 
Clear  and  calm. 

Moderate  wind  N.  80°.  W.;  clear. 
Clear  sky;  no  wind. 
High  wind  S.  15°  E  ;  unclouded. 
Clear;  moderate  wind  S.  20°  E. 
Brisk  breeze  S.  30°  E. ;  clear. 
Moderate  wind  S.  30°  E. ;  cloudy  in  E, 
Masses  of  clouds  o-er   the   sky;  light 

breeze  S.  60°  W, 
Clouds  over  setting  suu;  wind  S.  80°  W. 
Moderate  wind  S.  80°  W. ;  sky  nearly 

clear. 
Sky  overcast;  clouds  in  NW..;  wind  S- 

60°  W. 
Dark  cumuli  inE.;  moderate  wind  S. 

70°  W. 
Dense  mist  greater  part  of  the  day;  cold 

SW.  wind. 
Hazy;  sim  faint;  strong  wind  N.  80°  W. 
In  shade. 

In  sun;  sky  clear;  wind  N.  80°  W. 
Sky  clear;  brisk  wind  N.  80°  W. 
Perfectly  clear;  gentle  westerly  breeze. 
Bright  sunset;  moderate  west  wind. 
Temperature  of  boiling  umter  208°.  5. 
Clear  except  in  E . ;  coW  wind  N.  70°  W. 
Sky  covered  with  watery  cl'ds;  wind  W. 


Table  of  observations  with  the  therviometer — Continued. 


Date. 

Time. 

Thermometer. 

Wet  bulb. 

Remarks. 

1844. 

Dtg.  Fahr. 

Deg. 

April  24 

Sunrise 

48.0 

45.0 

Clouds  in  E.;  moderate  W.  wind. 

Woon 

76.0 

69.0 

Clear;  brisk  .wind  S.  80°  W. 

Sunset 

66.0 

58.5 

Clouds  breaking  away  after  a  sprinkling 
of  rain. 

25 

Sunrise 

51.5 

48.0 

Nearly  clear;  calm. 

Sunset 

62.0 

57.0 

(/louds  in  N.;  calm. 

26 

Sunrise 

42.0 

43.0 

Perfectly  clear;  calm. 

Noon 

90.0 

85.0 

Sky  clear;  shifting  breeze. 

Sunset 

80.5 

71.0 

Dark  clouds  in  the  N. ;  calm. 

27 

Sunrise 

44.0 

45.0 

Clear;  calm. 

Noon 

90.5 

78.0 

Thin  white  clouds  in  horizon;  southerly 
breeze  at  intervals. 

28 

Sunrise 

66.0 

59.5 

Nearlj'  clear;  calm. 

Sunset 

52.0 

48.5 

Heavy  clouds  in  NE. ;  strong  wind  S. 
15^  W. 

29 

Sunrise 

46.0 

47.5 

Scattered  clouds;  calm;   temptrature  of 
spring  used  66°. 

Noon 

69.0 

58.0 

Clouds;  wind  brisk  S.  30°  W. 

Sunset 

57.0 

54.5 

Cloudy;  moderate  wind  S.  20°  W. 

30 

Sunrise 

44.5 

43.0 

Cloudy  in  E. ;  cold  wind  S.  80°  E. 

Sunset 

60.5 

54.0 

Bright  sunset;  calm;  cumuli  on  near 
mountains. 

May      1 

Sunrise 

40.  T) 

42.0 

Very  clear;  calm. 

Sunset 

56.0 

48.0 

Calm;  brilliant  sunset. 

2 

Sunrise 

32.0 

35.5 

Clear;  calm. 

Sunset 

55.5 

60.0 

Clear;  calm. 

3 

Sunrise 

30.0 

34.0 

Clear;  calm. 

Sunset 

67.0 

63.0 

Clear;  calm. 

4 

Sunrise 

38.0 

41.5 

Clear;  light  breeze  N.  70°  W. 

52.0 

- 

/.  C  Larse  spring  73°. 
remperature  of  \  gjller  spring  71°. 

5 

Sunrise 

42.0 

41.0 

Clear;  calm. 

Noon 

104.0 

85.0 

Clear;  breeze  at  intervals. 

Sunset 

56.0 

50.0 

Clear;  shifting  breeze. 

Sunrise 

41.0 

40  0 

Clear;  calm. 

6h.  20m.  p  m. 

70.0 

- 

Temperature  of  boiling  water  205°. 7- 

Sunset 

70.5 

69.0 

7 

Sunrise 

42.0 

40.0 

Light  white  clouds  in  E.;  calm. 

Sunset 

76.0 

67.0 

Clear;  calm. 

8 

Sunrise 

42.5 

42.0 

Calm;  slight  haze. 

Sunset 

76.0 

69.0 

Clear;  moderate  wind  S.  40°  W. 

9 

Sunrise 

68.0 

56. 5 

Clouds  in  E.;  calm. 

70.0 

- 

Temperature  of  spring  76°. 

Noon 

94.0 

85.5 

Large  masses  of  white  cloud  in  NE. ; 
high  wind  S.  70°  W. 

Sunset 

70.0 

60.0 

Clear;  slight  breeze  S.  75°  VV. 

10 

,  Sunrise 

35.0 

41.5 

Clear;  calm. 

35.0 

- 

Temperaturs  of  river  4S°. 

Sunset 

66.0 

53.0 

Clear;  nearly  calm. 

11 

Sunrise 

53.5 

52.0 

Sky  mottled  with  dark  purple  clouds; 
moderate  wind  N.  80°  W. ;  shower  of 
rain  between  6h.  and  7h.  a.  m. 

Sunset 

53.0 

50.0 

Dark  clouds  over  the  sky;  brisk  wind  N. 
10°  E. 

12 

Sunrise 

44.0 

45  5 

Eastern  sky  clouded;  breeze  N.  15°  E. 

70.0 

" 

Temperature  of  boiUng  water  203°. 8; 
few  white  clouds  on  blue  sky;  moder- 
ate wind  N.  40°  E. 

Sunset 

46.0 

45.0 

Clear;  calm. 

)3 

Sunrise 

31.5 

33.0 

Sky  perfectly  clear;  Calm. 

Sunset 

56.0 

53.0 

Bright  sunset;  southerly  breeze. 

Table  of  observations  with  the  thermometer — Continued. 


Date. 

Time. 

Thermometer. 

Wet  bulb. 

Remarks. 

1844. 

Deg.   Fahr. 

Deg. 

May    14 

Sunrise 

42.0 

41.5 

Clear;  moderate  wind  S.  30°  W. 

Noon 

83.0 

68.5 

White  bank  of  clouds  in  N.;  strong  wind  S. 
30°  W. 

Sunset 

55.0 

50.0 

Sky  neariy  clear;  wind  high,  S.  30°  W. 

15 

Sunrise 

41.5 

41.0 

Scattered  clouds;  calm. 

Sunset 

61.0 

58.0 

Cloudy  in  horizon;  moderate  S.  wind. 

16 

Sunrise 

32.0 

32.5 

Nesuiy  clear;  wind  S. 

Sunset 

52.0 

48.0 

Very  cloudy;   few  drops  of  rain;  high  N. 

wind. 
Cloudy  in  horizon;  calm. 

17 

Sunrise 

33.0 

36.0 

Sunset 

52.0 

48.0 

Very  cloudy;  appearance  of  rain;  wind  S. 
70°  W. 

18 

Sunrise 

45.0 

42.5 

Overcast;  heavy  rain;  wind  S.  65°  W. 

Noon 

48.0 

52.0 

Heavy  and  incessant  rain;  wind  S.  65°  W. 

Sunset 

53.0 

50.5 

Clearing  off;  wind  N.  30°  E. 

19 

Sunrise 

29.5 

32.0 

Nearly  clear;  wind  N.  20°  E. 

Sunset 

60.0 

48.0 

Cloudy  in  horizon;  calm. 

20 

Sunrise 

39.0 

39.0 

Perfectly  clear;  calm. 

Noon 

88.5 

— 

Temperature  of  boiling  water  203°;  sky 
clear;  breeze  S.  30°  W. 

Sunset 

48.5 

47.5 

Nearly  clear;  calm. 

21 

Sunrise 

45.5 

46.5 

Clear;  calm. 

Sunset 

70.0 

61.0 

Very  cloudy;  mild  S.  wind. 

22 

Sunrise 

56.0 

52.0 

Reddish  clouds  in  E. ;  brisk  S.  wind. 

Sunset 

55.0 

50.0 

Cloudy;  wind  S. 

23 

Sunrise 

44.0 

43.5 

Cloudy  in  horizon;  cold  S.  wind. 

Sunset 

46.0 

41.0 

Scattered  clouds;  calm. 

24 

Sunrise 

41.5 

42.5 

Sky  overcast,  few  drops  of  rain. 

Sunset 

47.5 

48.0 

Sky  nearly  clear;  calm. 

25 

Sunrise 

30.5 

36.0 

Perfectly  clear;*  calm. 

Sunset 

65.0 

62.0 

Sky  clear;  calm;  Utah  lake. 

26 

Sunrise 

44.0 

45.5 

Sky  overcast;  calm. 

Sunset 

64.0 

60.0 

Very  cloudy;  high  wind  N.  20°  E. 

27 

Sunrise 

44.0 

46.0 

Clouded;  appearance  of  rain;  calm- 

Sunset 

45.0 

46.0 

Bright  sunset;  clear. 

28 

Sunrise 

35<0 

39,5 

Clear;  calm. 

Sunset 

46.0 

46.5 

Sky  very  clear;  calm. 

29 

Sunrise 

29.5 

33.0 

Clear  and  calm. 

Oh.  15m.  p.  m. 

66.0 

Station  on  Uintah  waters,  1,500  feet  below 
the  pass  in  the  dividing  ridge  between  the 
waters  of  White  and  Uintah  rivers;  tem- 
perature of  boiling  water  201°. 3;  sky  very 
clear  and  calm. 

Sunset 

45.0 

45.5 

Perfectly  clear;  calm. 

30 

Sunrise 

36.0 

35.0 

Sky  clear;  calm. 

Sunset 

58.0 

54.5 

Clear;  no  air  stirring- 

31 

Sunrise 

31.5 

36.0 

Clear;  calm. 

Sunset 

54.0 

53.5 

Clear;  calm. 

June     1 

Sunrise 

48.5 

49.0 

Clouded  in  E. ;  calm. 

Sunset 

62.0 

50.0 

Very  cloudy;  sprinkling  of  rainj  brisk  wind 
N.  70°  W. 

2 

Sunrise 

46.0 

45.0 

Scattered  clouds;  calm. 

Sunset 

64.0 

58.0 

Clouds  in  horizoii;  moderate  wind  N.  30°  W. 

3 

Sunrise 

42.0 

41.0 

Clear  and  calm. 

4 

Sunrise 

43.0 

42.0 

Clear  and  calm. 

Sunset 

66.0 

62.0 

Bright  sunset;  calm. 

6 

Sunrise 

48.0 

47.0 

Clear;  calm. 

Sunset 

68.0 

62.0 

Clear;  calm. 

6  ;  Sunrise 

44.5 

44.5 

Clear;  calm. 

i  Sunset 

72.0 

61.0 

Clear;  moderate  wind  N.  46°  E. 

Table  of  observations  with  the  thermometer — Continued. 


Date. 


1841. 
Jooe     6 


8 


Time. 


10 

U 

12 

13 

14 
15 

16 

17 
18 
19 

20 
21 
22 


23 
26 
27 

28 

29 

30 


.Tuly      1 


7h.  45m.  p.  m. 

Sunrise 
Sunset 

Sunrise 

Noon 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 
Sunset 

S  unripe 
Sunset 

Sunrise 
Sunset 

Sunrise 
)h.  p.  m 

Sunrise 
Sunset 
Sunrise 
Sunset 

Sunrise 
Sunset 
Sunrise 
Sunrise 


Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Simrise 

Sunset 

Noon 


Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Noon 

Sunset 

Sunrise 


Thermometer. 


Deg.  Fair. 
71.0 

52.0 
75.0 

45.0 
80.0 
70.0 
44.5 
72.0 

33.0 
65.0 

32.0 
60.0 

40.0 
60.0 

36.0 
76.5 


Wet  bulb. 


Deg. 


50.0 
72.0 

48.0 
75  0 
68.0 
44.0 
68.0 

38  0 
59.0 

37  5 

57.0 

42.0 
57.0 

38.0 


44.0 

43.0 

76.0 

66.0 

42.0 

42.6 

54.5 

53.0 

34.0 

36.0 

54.0 

52.0 

29.0 

36.0 

42.0 

42.5 

63.0 

- 

68.0 

61.0 

30.0 

36.0 

49.5 

48.5 

40.0 

39.0 

60  5 

- 

76.0 

49.0 

49.0 

33.0 

34.0 

46.0 

50.0 

38.0 

40.0 

62,0 

57.5 

42.0 

44.0 

74.0 

71.6 

44.0 

46.0 

74.5 

72.6 

66.0 

6.').0 

78.6 

76.0 

61.0 

61.0 

81.0 

80.0 

60.0 

60  0 

85  0 

84.0 

84.0 

80.0 

Remarks. 


66.0 


66.5 


Temperature  of  boiling  ttoier  200°.7j  sky 

clear;  moderate  wind  N.  45°  E. 
Sky  clear;  moderate  wind  N.  45°  E. 
Temperature  of  boiling  water  204°;  very 

cloudy. 
Very  clear;  calm. 

Sky  nearly  clear;  moderate  wind  S.  80°  W. 
Dark  heavy  clouds  over  the  sky. 
Clear;  calm. 
Dark  clouds  in  the  western  horizon;   light 

breeze  S.  70°  W. 
Sky  clear;  calm. 
Clouds  in  horizon;  moderate  wind  N.  40" 

E. 
Sky  nearly  clear;  calm. 
^ky  mottlid  vrith  clouds;  moderate  wind  S. 

65°  W. 
Sky  clear;  calm. 
Few  clouds  in  W. ;  moderate  wind  S.  40* 

W. 
Sky  clear;  calm. 
Temperature  of  boiling  water  199°. 5;  calm; 

thin  white  clouds  in  horizon. 
Sky  very  clear;  calm. 
Bright  sunset;  calm. 
Sky  clear;  calm. 
Temperature  of  boiling  water   200°;  sky 

clear;  slight  westerly  breeze. 
Clear;  calm. 
Bright  sunset;  calm. 
Perfectly  clear;  calm. 
Sky  clear;  calm. 

Temperature  ofbo'.ling  water  201°. 6;  clear; 

slight  westerly  breeze. 
Sky  nearly  clear;  calm.. 

Clear;  calm. 

Bright  sunset;  calm. 

Slight  mist;  southerly  breeze. 

Sky  mottled  with  clouds;  shifting  breeze. 

Fork  of  Grand  river,  1,600  feet  below  the 
divide;  temperature  of  boiling  water 
195°.  8;  clear;  southerly  breeze. 

Masses  of  white  clouds;  wind  variable. 

Sky  perfectly  clear;  calm. 

Clear;  calm. 

Clear;  calm. 

Bright  sunset;  calm. 

Cloudless  sky;  calm- 
Nearly  clear;  calm. 

Sky  clear;  calm. 

Clear;  shifting  breeze. 

Clear;  calm. 

Clouds  in  NE.;  moderate  wind  N.  60°  E- 

Sky  clear;  calm. 

Sky  clear,  southerly  breeze. 

Clear;  calm. 

Nearly  clear;  calm.. 

Dark  threatening  clouds  in  W.;  high  wind 
S.  50°  E. 

Masses  of  clouds  over  the  whole  sky ;  calm. 


Table  of  observations  loith  the  thermometer — Continued. 


Date. 


1844. 
July 


Time. 


Thermometer. 


3 

Sunset 

4 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

5 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

6 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

7 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

8 

Sunrise 

Noon 

Sunset 

9 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

10 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

11 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

12 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

13 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

14 

Sunset 

15 

Sunrise 

Noon 

Sunset 

16 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

17 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

18 

Sunrise 

19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset 

SUntise 

Sunset 

Sunrise 

Sunset  (?) 

Sunrise 

2h.  p.  m. 

Sunrise 

2h.  p.  m. 

Sunrise 

2h.  p   m. 

Sunrise 

2h.  p.  m. 

Sunrise 


Beg.  Fahr. 
80.0 
70.5 
82.0 
66.0 


Wet  bulb. 


72.0 

60.0 

69.0 
63.0 
73.5 
60.0 
78.0 
68.0 
80.0 
65.0 
74.0 
64.0 
82.0 
68.0 
83.0 
70.0 
82.0 
70.0 
84.0 
70.0 
100.0 
72.0 


Deg. 
76.5 
70.5 
77.0 
66.0 


62.0          i 

63.0 

75.0 

73.5 

65.5 

65.5 

80.0         i 

78.0 

64.5         1 

64.5 

91.0 

89.0 

81.0 

80.0 

68.0 

66.5 

79.5 

re.o 

63.0 

61.0 

82.5 

80.0 

68.0 

70.0 

79.0 

76.5 

70.0 

70.0 

88.0 

86.0 

73.0 

72.0 

80.0 

79.5 

82.0 

80.0 

72.0 

70.0 

79.0 

78.5 

76.0 

75.0 

70.5 

70.0 

73.5 

74.0 

68.0 

68.0 

80.0 

79.0 

68.6 

68.0 

71.5 

61.6 

66.0 
54.5 
71.0 
61.0 
76.0 
.69.0 
78.0 
64.0 
74.5 
64.0 
81.0 
67.0 

70.5 

71.0 

70.5 

71.0 


Remarks. 


Sky  cloudy;  thunder  and  lightning. 

Clouds  in  E.;  calm. 

Few  drops  of  rain;  calm. 

Clear  and  calm. 

Heavy  rain;  NW.  wind. 

Sky  overcast;  calm. 

Clouds  in  horizon;  calm. 

Very  cloudy;  calm. 

Westem  sky  clouded;  calm. 

Fair;  calm. 

Sky  clear  and  calm. 

Sky  partially  overcast;  calm;  thunder  and 

lightning,  with  heavy  rain  between  lOh. 

and  I  Ih.  p.  m. 
Nearly  clear;  calm. 
Clear;  no  air  stirring. 
Few  clouds;  calm. 

Clouds  passing  off  after  a  thunder  shower. 
Sky  clear;  calm. 

Storm  coming  up  from  westward. 
Thin  watery  clouds  moving  from  SW.   to 

NE;  breeze  variable. 
Cumuli  in  W;  wind  S.  10®  E. 
Sky  nearly  clear;  moderate  wind  S.  30"  E. 
Scattered  clouds;  calm. 
Clouded  every  where  except  in  the  zenith; 

sUght  breeze  S.  40°  E. 
Sky  cloudy;  sun  faint. 
Sky  entirely  overcast;  calm. 
Sun  and  clouds;  calm. 
Cloudy;  appearance  of  rain. 
Cloudy  every  where  except  around  the  set- 
ting sun;  drops  of  rain;  calm. 
Partially  overcast;  calm. 
Sky  clear;  moderate  wind  S.  26°  W. 
White  clouds  in  horizon;  moderate  wind  S. 

16°  W. 
Clouds  rising  in  eastward;  high  wind  S.  40° 

W. 
Sun  faint;  partially  overcast;  cold  wind  S. 

45°  E. 
Sky  nearly  clear;  calm. 
Sky  clear,  except  in  horizon;  calm. 
Sky  nearly  clear;  slight  breeze  S.  35°  E. 
Sky  clear;  calm. 
Sky  almost  clear;  calm. 
Cloudy,  except  in  the  zenith;  calm. 
Wind  clouds  in  W.;  moderate  wind S.  30°  E. 
Clear  and' calm. 

Low  dark  clouds  in  N. ;  high  wind  S.  46°  E. 
Sky  clear;  calm. 
Few  clouds;  moderate  wind  S. 
Overcast;  shifting  breeze. 

Very  clouded;  calm. 
Clear;  slight  breeze. 
Very  much  overcast;  calm. 

Misty  and  calm. 
Clear;  no  breeze. 
Clear;  calm. 


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tains, by  Howard  Stansbury.  Philadelphia,  1852. 

STEVENS  Stevens,  O.  A.  "Nicollet's  Expedition  of  1839,"  North  Dakota 
History,  21  (1954) :  75-82. 

SUNDER  Sunder,  John  E.  The  Fur  Trade  on  the  Upper  Missouri,  1840-65. 
Norman,  Okla.,  1965. 

TALBOT  Talbot,  Theodore.  The  Journals  of  Theodore  Talbot,  1843  and 
1849-52,  with  the  Fremont  Expedition  of  1843  and  with  the  First 
Military  Company  in  Oregon  Territory,  1849-1852.  Ed.  by  Charles 
H.  Carey.  Portland,  Ore.,  1931. 

8i6 


TAYLOR  Taylor,  Creswell.  "Charles  Bent  Has  Built  a  Fort,"  Bulletin  of 
the  Missouri  Historical  Society,  11   (Oct.  1954):  82-84. 

THOMPSON  Thompson,  Erwin.  Whitman  Mission:  National  Historical 
Site,  National  Park  Service  Historical  Handbook  Series  No.  37. 
Washington,  D.C.,  1964. 

TORREY  &  GRAY  Torrcy,  John,  and  Asa  Gray.  A  Flora  of  North  America: 
Containing  Abridged  Descriptions  of  All  the  Known  Indigenous 
and  Naturalized  Plants  Growing  North  of  Mexico.  2  vols.  New 
York,  183^-43. 

TRENHOLM  Trcnholm,  Virginia.  "The  Bordeaux  Story,"  Annals  of  Wyo- 
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VAN  RAVENSWAAY  Van  Ravcnswaay,  Charles.  "The  Anglo-American 
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Historical  Society,  14  (1957-58)  :  231-57. 

WALLACE  Wallace,  William  S.  "Antoine  Robidoux,"  in  The  Mountain 
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7  vols  to  date.  Glendale,  Calif.,  1965—.  4:261-73. 

WAUGH  Waugh,  Alfred  S.  Travels  in  Search  of  the  Elephant:  The  Wan- 
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Santa  Fe,  in  1845-1846.  Ed.  by  John  F.  McDermott.  St.  Louis,  1951. 

WERTENBAKER  Wertcubaker,  Thomas  J.  Princeton,  1746-1896.  Princeton, 
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WHEAT  [2]  .  "An  Unusual  Fremont  Document,"  Annual  Publica- 
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WHEELER  Wheeler,  Sessions  S.  The  Desert  La{e:  The  Story  of  Nevada's 
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wicKMAN    Wickman,  John  E.  "Peter  A.  Sarpy,"  in  The  Mountain  Men 
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1905.  Philadelphia,  1937. 

817 


INDEX 


The  following  abbreviations  are  used:  JCF  for  John  Charles  Fremont;  1842 
expedition  for  the  1842  Expedition  to  South  Pass;  1843-44  expedition  for  the 
Expedition  to  Oregon  and'  California;  MP  for  Map  Portfolio  (followed  by 
appropriate  page  number). 


Abert,  Lt.  James  W.:  and  1845  expedi- 
tion, 397n,  407;  biogra'phical  data, 
408n;  re  southern  Rockv  Mountains, 
422-23;  uses  JCFs  1845  map,  MP  13 

Abert,  Col.  John  James:  letters  from,  3, 
25,  28-29,  44-45,  46-48,  85,  94-95, 
96,  101,  121-22,  123-24,  126,  128,  159- 
60,  164,  342,  344-46,  347-48,  349, 
351-52,  353,  355-56,  393,  395-97,  398, 
403,  415,  416-17,  421,  422-23,  425; 
biographical  data,  3n;  letters  to,  44, 
84,  115,  354,  365-64,  419;  re  JCF  and 
Nicollet  surveys,  45;  orders  Des  Moines 
River  survey,  96;  orders  1842  expedi- 
tion, 121-22;  and  Rocky  Mountain 
survey,  159-60;  re  JCF  and  howitzer, 
345-46,  351-52;  and  expedition  zoolo- 
gist, 393;  plans  1845  expedition,  395-97 

Abies  concolor,  309,  633n 

Abies  lasiocarpa,  309 

A.  Bininger  &  Co.:  vouchers  to,  70,  141 

Abronia  jragrans,  306 

Abronia  mellijera.  See  A.  jragrans 

Abronia  micrantha,  306-7 

Abronia  §  (Tripterocalyx)  micranthum. 
See  A.  micrantha 

Absinthe.  See  Artemisia  tridentata 

Acacia.  See  Prosopis  pubescens 

Acacia  strombulijera.  See  Prosopis  strom- 
bulijera 

Acer  ate  s  angustijolius.  See  Asclepias 
stenophylla 

Acerates  latifolia.  See   Asclepias  crypto- 


cera 


Acerates  longijolia.  See  Asclepias  longi- 

jolia 
Acer  saccharinum,  121n 
Acer  saccharum ,   121n 
Achillea  millefolium,  299,  450 
Ackerman,  L.:  voucher  to,  82 
Actaea  rubra,  290 
Actinella     gran  di  flora.     See     Rydbergia 

grandiflora 
Adam    and    Eve.   See   Amplectrum    hy- 

emale 
Adams,  David,  146n,  147 
Adolphus  Meier  &  Co.:  vouchers  to,  107, 

380;  identified,  108n 
Agoseris  aurantiaca,  290,  300 
Agoseris  glauca  var.  parviflora,  300 
Agrostis  michauxiana.  See  A.  perennans 
Agrostis  perennans,  311 
Alder.  See  Alnus  tenuifolia 
Alexander,  B.  W.:  voucher  to,  380 
Alexander,  J.  H.,  132n 
Alexander  Crater:  geology  of,  483-84 
Alkali  Creek,  533 
Alkali  (Dry)  Lake,  598 
Allium,  459 

Allium  reticulatum.  See  A.  textile 
Allium  textile.  310,  459 
Almonte,    Gen.:    re    Pablo    Hernandez, 

724 
Alnus  tenuifolia,  513 
Alnus  viridis.  See  A.  tenuifolia 
Alpine     bilberry.    See     Vaccinium     sco- 

parium 
Alvord  Mountain,  679 


819 


Atnarella  arctophila,  304 

Amargosa  Range,  683 

Amargosa  River,  677n,  683 

Amargosa  Valley,  683n 

Amelanchier  alnijolia,  295,  455,  474,  475, 
516 

Amelanchier  diversijolia  var.  alnijolia. 
See  A.  alnijolia 

American  Fur  Company,  9n,  24,  43n, 
50,  51;  assists  Nicollet  1838  expedition, 
7;  vouchers  to,  32,  33,  34,  35-36,  37, 
39,  40,  41,  80,  81,  140;  furnishes  guide, 
116;  trapping  party,  183-84;  re  buffalo 
robes,  492.  See  also  Fort  Laramie;  P. 
Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company 

American  journal  oj  Science,  169 

American  journal  oj  Science  and  Arts, 
159n 

American  River,  639,  651,  653n,  654, 
656;  Indians  along,  651,  652 

Ammole  (ammoli).  See  Chlorogalum 
pomeridianum 

Amorpha  canescens,  176,  177,  178,  181, 
185,  194,  287,  294,  432 

Amorpha  jruticosa,  294 

Ampetu-washtoy  (Sioux  maiden),  7 

Amphicarpa  comosa,  293 

Amphicarpoea  monica.  See  Amphicarpa 
comosa 

Amplectrum  hyemale,  309 

Amsonia  tomentosa,  768 

Anantherix  viridis.  See  Asclepias  viridis 

Anderson,  Louis:  voucher  to,  383;  at 
Bent's  Fort,  720-21 

Anderson,  William  Marshall:  re  Grand 
Island,  182n;  re  Fort  William,  211n 

Andropogon  nutans.  See  Sorghastrum 
nutans 

Andropogon  scoparius,  311 

Androsace  occidentalis,  289,  300 

Anethum  graveolens.  See  Carum  gaird- 
neri;   Perideridia   gairdneri 

Angelrodt,  Eggers  &  Barth:  voucher  to, 
108 

Animals,  game:  abundant  on  prairies, 
179,  180,  181,  431,  433;  and  Sweet- 
water River,  249;  in  California,  658- 
62,  667;  in  Rocky  Mountains,  710,  711. 
See  also  Buffalo 

Antelope  (steamboat),  48,  50,  68n; 
voucher  to,  90 

Antelope  brush.  5*?^  Purshia  tridentata 


Antelope  Island,  505 

Antelope  Range,  694n 

Antelope  Valley,  619n,  620,  623n-25 

Antennaria.  See  Antennaria  microphylla 

Antennaria  microphylla,  440 

Apios  americana,  293 

Apios  tuberosa.  See  A.  americana 

Aplectrum  hyemale.  See  Amplectrum 
hyemale 

Aplopappus  jremontii,  393n 

Aplopappus  spinulosus.  See  Sideranthus 
spinulosus 

Apocynum    cannabinum,   304 

Applegate,  Jesse:  identified,  554n;  and 
fleet  of  boats,  554-55;  and  river  disaster, 
560,  561 n 

Aquilegia  coerulea,  289,  290,  716 

Arago,  Dominique  Francois,  5,  9n 

Arapaho  Indians,  240;  war  parties,  198- 
99,  363-64,  714-20  passim;  buffalo 
hunt,  199-200;  villages  described,  200- 
201,  437-38;  hostile,  709.  See  also 
Indians 

Arcand   (Ascaud),  Majese,  36 

Archambeault,  Auguste  (voyageur) : 
voucher  to,  383;  joins  1843-44  expedi- 
tion, 706 

Arctomecon  calijornica,  760 

Arctostaphylos  sp.,  644 

Arctostaphylos  uva-ursi,  300 

Arenaria  congesta,  292 

Ar gem  one  hispida,  291 

Argemone  mexicana  albiflora.  See  A. 
hispida 

Aristida  longiseta,  311,  433 

Aristida  pallens.  See  A.  longiseta 

Arkansas  River,  446;  survey  planned, 
160,  396;  watershed,  393n,  445;  head- 
waters of,  396,  710,  715n,  717;  valley 
of,  442,  720 

Armijo,  Jose  (Harmiyo,  Osea):  voucher 
to,  157;  identified,  157n;  joins  1842 
expedition,  204,  206,  207 

Arms  and  ammunition,  31—43  passim, 
69-83  passim,  85-94  passim,  104-15 
passim,  136-58  passim,  343,  346,  351, 
358,  415,  419;  on  1842  expedition,  279; 
on  1843-44  expedition,  428,  432,  462, 
577,  620,  641 
Arnica.  See  Arnica  julgens 

Arnica  angustijolia.  See  A.  julgens 

Arnica  julgens,  290 


820 


Arrowhead.  See  Sagittaria  sagittifolia 

Artemisia  biennis,  299 

Artemisia  campestris,  299 

Artemisia   cana,    299 

Artemisia  canadensis.  See  A.  campestris 

Artemisia  filifolia,  299,  434,  527 

Artemisia  frigida,  299 

Artemisia  lewisii,  299 

Artemisia  ludoviciana,   299 

Artemisia  tridentata,  299,  368,  441,  458, 
511,  537,  542,  582,  594,  595,  604,  615, 
673,  685,  709 

Artists,  347,  392,  395,  399,  401,  415 

Asclepias  cornuti.  See  A.  syriaca 

Asclepias  cryptocera,  769 

Asclepias  longifolia,  305 

Asclepias  speciosa,  287,  305,  769 

Asclepias  stenophylla,  305 

Asclepias  syriaca,  180n,  769 

Asclepias  tuberosa,  178,  305 

Asclepias  verticillata,  305 

Asclepias  viridis,  305 

Ashes:  see  Fraxinus  platycarpa;  blue- 
foliaged,  see  F.  pennsylvanica;  green, 
see  F.  pennsylvanica;  white,  see  F. 
americana 

Ash    Hollow    (Coulee   de   Frenes),    192 

Ashley,  William,  68n,  83 

Aspens:  see  Populus  tremuloides;  quak- 
ing, see  P.  tremuloides 

Assiniboine  River,  64 

Aster  adscendens,  297 

Aster  adscendens  var.  Fremontii.  See  A. 
jremontii 

Aster  an  din  us,  298 

Aster  commutatus,  297 

Aster  cordifolius,  297 

Aster  elegans,  298 

Aster  ericoides,  297 

Aster  falcatus.  See  A.  commutatus 

Aster  fremontii,  297 

Aster  glacialis,  298 

Aster  glaucus,  298 

Aster  integrijolius,  297 

Aster  laevis,  297 

Aster  laxif alius.  See  A.  Ion gij alius 

Aster  langifolius,  297 

Aster  multiflorus.  See  A.  ericoides 

Aster  nova-angliae.  See  A.  novae-angliae 

Aster  novae-angliae,  298 

Aster  navi-belgii,  297 

Aster  oblon  gij  alius,  297 


Aster    salsuginosus.    See    Erigeran    sal- 

suginosus 
Asters:  see  Aster  adscendens;  A.  andinus; 

A.  cordifolius;  A.  elegans;  A.  ericoides; 

A.  fremontii;  A.  glacialis;  A.  glaucus; 

A.    integrifolius;    A.    longifalius;    A. 

navi-belgii;   A.   oblon gifoli us;   golden, 

see  Chrysapsis  faliosa;  New  England, 

see  A.  navae-angliae;  smooth,  see  A. 

laevis 
Astor,  John  Jacob,  9n,  537n 
Astragalus.  See  Astragalus  \entrophyta; 

Oxytropis  lambertii 
Astragalus  agrestis,  294 
Astragalus  alpinus,  294 
Astragalus  eucosmus,  294 
Astragalus  gracilis,  294 
Astragalus    hypaglottis.    See    A.   agrestis 
Astragalus  l^entrophyta,  287 
Astragalus  mollissimus,  294 
Astragalus  tridactylicus,  294 
Astronomical  observations:  1842  expedi- 
tion, 312-13;  1843-44  expedition,  776- 

77 
Athabasca  Pass,  271n,  553 
Atriplex  canescens.   189,   305,  406,  446, 

497,  509,  511,  527,  595,  708;  as  fuel, 

597 
Atriplex  con fertif alia,  511,  773 
Audubon,  John  James,  68n,  347n;  letter 

to,  393 
Avawatz  Mountains,  683 
Avens.  See  Geum  canadense 
Avintaquin  Creek,  705n 
Ayot,  Alexis  (vayageur):  injured,  125n, 

723;  pension  to,  365n;  voucher  to,  383; 

on  1843-44  expedition,  427 
Ayot,  Honore  (vayageur) :  contract  with, 
124-25;  on  1842  expedition,  170,  192, 
266,  275-78 
Ayres,  B.  W.:  voucher  to,  109 

Badeau,  Frangois  (vayageur),  385n,  502; 
voucher  to  estate,  384,  389n;  death, 
389n,  696n,  697;  on  1843-44  expedi- 
tion, 427;  with  JCF  to  Snake  River, 
453 

Bailey,  John  W.,  581,  740n;  letter  to, 
408-9 

Baker,  Jim,  706n 

Balsamorrhiza  sagittata,  298 

Balsam  root.  See  Balsamorrhiza  sagittata 


821 


Baltimore  &  Ohio  Railroad:  voucher  to, 

115 
Bannock    (Pannack)    River,   483n,   516- 

17;  JCF  re  military  post,  516,  519-20; 

valley  of,  516-17,  521 
Baptisia  leucantha,  294 
Baptisia  leucanthia.  See  B.  leucantha 
Baptisier.  See  Gea,  Jean  Baptiste 
Barberry.  See  Berberis  aquifolium 
Barclay,  Alexander,  436n 
Bartleson,  John:  emigrant  train,  xix 
Basswood.  See  Tilia  americana 
Batschia    gmelini.     See     Uthospermum 

gmelini 
Battle  Creek,  709n,  710 
Bayou  Salade,  265-67,  443,  715.  See  also 

Colorado  Park  country 
Beale,  Lieut.  Edward  F.,  MP  16 
Bear,  grizzly,  243,  661 ;  sighted,  249,  438, 

712;  killed,  441 
Bearberry.  See  Arctostaphylos  twa-ursi 
Bearded     tongues.    See    Penstemon    al- 

bidum;  P.  angustifoUus;  P.  procerus 
Bear  Flag  Revolt,  463,  657n,  707n 
Bear  River,  448,  467n,  472n,  473n,  476, 

483n,  496,  498;  bay,  498 
Bear  River  valley,  505;  described,  471- 

82;  observations  taken,  476,  514,  516; 

JCF  re  military  post,  516 
Beaubien,  Charles,  445 
Beaulieu,  Oliver  (voyageur) :  voucher  to, 

382;  identified,  387n;  on  1843-44  ex- 
pedition,  427;    discharged   at   Sutter's 

Fort,  657n 
Beaver,  traces  of,  251,  260,  711 
Beaver  Creek,  201,  712n 
Beaver  Dam  Mountains,  692n 
Beaver  Dam  Wash,  692n 
Beaver  River,  695n 
Beaver  Valley,  694n 
Bec]{mannia    erucijormis.    See    B.    syzi- 

gachne 
Beckrnannia  syzigachne,  311 
Beckwourth   (Beckvi'ith),  James  P.,  202 
Bedstraw.  See  Galium  boreale 
Beer  (Soda)  Springs,  448,  476;  described, 

477;  analysis  of,  480;  temperature  of, 

482 
Beggarticks.  See  Bidens  connata 
Belford  and  Clark  and  Co.  (publishers), 

xxxvi 
Bell,  John,  98,  99n 


Bell,  Capt.  William  H.:  re  JCF's  request 
for  arms,  243-44n,  346,  41 9n 

Bellevue  (trading  post),  284,  285 

Belligny,  Gaspard  de,  52,  69n;  identified, 
19n 

Benoist  (Benoit),  Leonard  {voyageur), 
170;  voucher  to,  151;  on  Platte  River 
run, 275-78 

Bent,  Charles,  446 

Bent,  George:  hospitality  of,  720 

Bent,  William,  446n 

Benton,  John  Randolph,  157n;  on  1842 
expedition,  170;  and  Cheyenne  youth, 
185;  remains  at  Fort  Laramie,  227 

Benton,  Thomas  Hart,  xviii,  xxvi,  xxxiii, 
96,  271n,  406,  410,  411,  418,  611n; 
and  William  Perkins,  44;  and  Jessie's 
marriage,  103n;  re  western  surveys, 
122n,  I35n;  and  Des  Moines  River 
survey,  135;  letters  to,  159-60,  351-52; 
re  presents  for  Indians,  164-65;  letters 
from,  164-65,  414;  JCF  and  criticism, 
352;  and  ship  disaster,  360-61  n;  and 
coal  deposits,  400;  re  1848  map,  MP 
15-16 

Bent,  St.  Vrain  &  Co.,  203,  204n; 
vouchers  to,  156,  381,  383 

Bent's  Fort,  156n,  233,  446;  and  1845 
expedition,  407,  422-23;  attacked,  720 

Berberis  aquifolium,  291 

Bernier,  Baptiste  {voyageur),  632; 
voucher  to,  383;  on  1843-44  expedi- 
tion, 427;  with  JCF  to  Snake  River, 
453;  on  Salt  Lake,  502;  on  Columbia 
River  trip,  561 

Berthoud,  Ernest,  129,  130n 

Berthoud,  N.:  voucher  to,  379 

Berula  erecta,  296 

Betula  glandulosa,  289,  309 

Betula  nigra,  121n 

Betula  occidentalis ,  289,  309 

Biddle,  Nicholas,  522n 

Bidens  connata,  299 

Big  Blue  River,  177 

Bigler,  John,  635 

Big  root.  See  Ipomoea  leptophylla 

Big  Sandy  Creek,  254 

Big  Sioux  River,  19n,  58,  59,  67 

Big  Stone  Lake,  67 

Big  Swan  Lake  (Marah-tanka),  14 

Big  Timber  Creek,  722n 

Bijou  Creek,  202,  435 


822 


Billieau,  Cyprian:  voucher  to,  379 
Birch  Creek,  540 

Bircher,  Rudolph:  letter  from,  365 
Birches:    dwarf,   see   Bettda  glandulosa; 
mountain,  see  B.  occidentalis;  river,  see 
B.  nigra 
Bissonette,  Joseph,  146;  identified,  147n; 
as   interpreter,   224,   226;   letter   from, 
228-29;  leaves  1842  expedition,  241 
Bistort.   See   Polygonum    viviparum 
Bitter  Spring,  678,  679n 
Black  Canyon,  483 
Blackfeet  Indians:  hostile,  259 
Black  Hills  (Colo,  and  Wyo.),  204,  238; 
exploration  of,  205-10;  geology  of,  206, 
207,   208,   209-10;    observations   taken 
in,  206,  207,  208,  210;  Sioux  attacks  in, 
221;  Platte  River  in,  231 
Black  Night  (Sioux  chief),  229 
Black  Rock  Desert,  600 
Blacks  Fork,  462,  467n,  468,  469,  473n 
Black   (Big)   Vermillion  River:  observa- 
tions taken  at,  177 
Black  walnut.  See  Juglans  nigra 
Blair  and  Rives,  xix 
Blake,  John  A.:   vouchers  to,   137,   139, 

390 
Blanket  flower.  See  Gaillardia  aristata 
Blattner,   Jacob:    vouchers   to,    109,    143, 

380 
Blazing   stars.   See    Liatris   glabrata;    L. 
scariosa;    L.    spicata;    L.    spicata    var. 
resinosa;  Mentzelia  ntida 
Bluebells.  See   Campanula  rotundijolia; 

Mertensia  ciliata 
Blue  bonnets.  5^1?  Lupinus  leucophyllus; 

L.  sericeus 
Blue  cardinal  flower.  5^^  Lobelia  siphi- 

litica 
Blue  Earth  River,  17,  18n,  24 
Blue  flag.  See  his  missouriensis 
Blue  Mountains,  544,  546,  547,  549,  MP 

13 
Blue  River,  714n,  715n 
Blue  stem.  See  Andropogon  scoparius 
Blunt,      Edmund      and      George      W.: 

vouchers  to,  70,  136,  137,  139,  141 
Blunt-lobed  woodsia.  See  Woodsia  obtusa 
Boat,   India    rubber:    on    Kansas    River, 
I         173-74;   on  Platte  River,  275-78;   on 
Great  Salt  Lake,  502-11 
Boatmen.  See  Voyageurs 


Boiling  springs.  See  Manitou  Springs 
Bois  de   vache:   as  fuel,   190,  206,  213, 

249,  721 
Boise  River,  536,  537n 
Bom  bus  sp.,  270 

Bond,  William,  &  Son:  voucher  to,  113 
Bonneville,  Capt.  B.  L.  E.,  195,  506,  693 
Bonpland,   Aime:   JCF  names   lake  for, 

635n 
Books,  carried  and  consulted:  American 
nautical    almanacs,    42,    70;    English 
nautical  almanacs,  70,  139;  logarithm 
tables,  71 
Boone,  Albert  Gallatin:  as  trader,  144n; 

voucher  to,  379 
Boone   &   Hamilton,    144,    145;   voucher 

to,  381 
Bordeaux    (Boudeau),   James,   211,   218, 

222;  as  interpreter,  229 
Botanical   specimens:   collected   on    1842 
expedition,  15,   130,   158-59,   161,   165, 
261,   270,  282;   and  Nicollet's  expedi- 
tions,  45;    Torrey   and,    128-29,    163, 
169,  286-311,  758-75;  Gray  and,  133, 
158;  JCF  and,  163,   165-66,  653;  col- 
lected on  1843-44  expedition,  341,  346, 
347,  366-76  passim,  391,  394,  397-98, 
400,  402,  406,  409-14  passim.  522,  689, 
707.    See    also    individual    species    by 
modern  binomial 
Boucher,  Pierre  (voyageur),  36 
Bougar,  Joseph  {voyageur) :  vouchers  to, 

158,  378 
Bouis,  A.  R.,  218n 
Boulder  Lake,  257 

Boundary,  U.S.-Mexican:  JCF  to  reach 
(1843),   160;   to  survey    (1845),   396; 
and  western  travel,  525,  598n 
Bowman,  Nathl.:  voucher  to,  381 
Box  Elder  Creek,  238 
Bradlev,  Francis:  voucher  to,  381 
Brady,  Mathew,  xxxiii,  146n 
Brady's  Island,  188,  189 
Brant,   Henry   B.,    157n,    158n;   on    1842 
expedition,  170;  remains  at  Fort  Lara- 
mie, 227 
Brassica  napus,  656 
Brassica  rapus.  See  B.  napus 
Braya.  See  Smelows1{ia  americana 
Brazu,  T.[?],416 

Breadroots.   See  Psoralea  campestris;  P. 
collina 


823 


Breaker  of  Arrows  (Sioux  chief),  229 

Bredell,  Edward  and  John  C:  voucher 
to,  76 

Breese,  Samuel,  MP  9 

Brewer,  Henry  Bridgman:  voucher  to, 
382;  identified,  570-7 In 

Bricl^ellia  grandiflora,  297 

Bridger,  Jim:  and  1843—44  expedition, 
213-14,  221;  trading  posts,  467;  Indian 
attack  on,  462-63n 

Bridger  Creek,  471 

British  colony,  52.  See  also  Douglas, 
Thomas 

Brotnus  ciliatus,  311 

Brooke,  Brig.-Gen.  George  M.:  letter 
from,  49;  identified,  50n 

Broom  rape.  See  Orobanche  jasciculata 

Brown,  Mrs.  George,  xxxvi 

Brown,  Joseph  Renshaw,  20,  21n 

Brown's  Hole,  707,  708 

Brown's  Park,  707n,  709n 

Brownweed.    See    Gutierrezia    sarothrae 

Bruce,  J.  and  B.:  voucher  to,  379 

Brunelle,  Joseph  (voyageur),  36,  41; 
identified,  36n 

Bttc/iloe  dactyloides,  432,  433,  442,  709 

Buckhorn  Springs,  694n 

Buckingham,  E.  M.:  voucher  to,  142 

Buckley,  Samuel  Botsford,  159n 

Buckwheat.  See  Eriogonum  jasciculatum 

Buenaventura  River,  588,  601,  617;  sur- 
vey planned,  574,  610,  640;  declared  a 
myth,  669,  MP  12 

Buffalo:  herds,  51,  52,  56,  61,  65,  66, 
185-86,  433,  434-35;  hunting  of,  53- 
54,  63,  186,  190,  237-38;  "Indian  sur- 
round," 61,  62;  abundance  of,  184, 
185,  191,  195,  710;  as  food,  186,  190, 
237-38;  battle,  196;  scarcity  of,  273; 
disappearance  of,  490-92;  robes,  value 
of,  492;  and  Indian  economy,  492-94; 
and  intertribal  wars,  493 

Buffalo  bean.  See  Thermopsis  montana 

Buffalo  berries.  See  Shepherdia  argentea 

Buffalo  bur.  See  Solanum  rostratum 

Bull  Creek,  173n 

Bull's  Tail  (Sioux  chief),  229,  230 

Bumblebee.  See  Bombus  sp. 

Bundle  flower.  See  Desmanthus  leptolo- 
bus 

Burch,  Thomas  W.:  voucher  to,  157 

Burcham  Flat,  619n 


Bureau  of  Topographical  Engineers.  See 
Abert,  Col.  John  James;  United  States 
Corps   of   Topographical   Engineers 

Burke,  Joseph,  347n 

Burlington   (steamboat),  9n,  43n 

Burnett,  Peter  Hardeman:  JCF  on,  568; 
identified,  568n 

Burnt  (Brule)  River:  geology  along, 
542,  543 

Burscheim,  Dr.  See  Knieskern,  Peter 

Butte:  defined,  517-18 

Butte  aux  Os  (Bone  Hill) :  observations 
taken  at,  60 

Buttercup.  See  Ranunculus  cymbalaria 

Butterflyweed.  See  Gaura  coccinea 

Butternut.  See  ]uglans  cinerea 

Button  snakeroot.  See  Uatris  spicata 

Cacalia  tuber osa,  121n,  299 

Cache  la  Poudre  River,  205,  452,  454, 

455n 
Cache  camp,  281;  observations  taken  at, 

242 
Cadot,    Benjamin    {voyageur) :    voucher 

to,  150;  on  1842  expedition,  170 
Cailloun,  Joseph:  voucher  to,  380 
Cajon  Pass,  674n 
Calaveras  River,  658n,  659 
California  Battalion,  377,  453 
California  Indians:  speak  Spanish,  664; 

assist  JCF,  667-72.  See  also   Mohave 

Indians 
California  Wash,  686n 
Callirhoe  involucrata,  293 
C alii r hoe  digitata,  293 
Calystegia  sepium,  303 
Camass:   death,  see  Zigadenus  glaucus; 

white,  see  Z.  glaucus 
Camassia  esculenta,  475,  484,  494 
Cameron,  111 

Campanula  rotundifolia,  300 
Campbell,    Archibald:     letter     to,    424; 

identified,  424n 
Campbell,  John  A.   {voyageur):  returns 

at  Fort  Hall,  355n,  386n,  520;  voucher 

to,   382;   on    1843-44   expedition,   427 
Campbell,  John  Gill  (voyageur)  :  voucher 

to,  382;  on   1843-44  expedition,  427; 

discharged,   576;    identified,    576n 
Campbell,     Marguerite     Menager,     33; 

identified,  34n 
Campbell,  Col.  Robert:  letters  to,  347- 


824 


48,  350,  353,  355-56;  identified,  348- 
49;  JCF  requests  voucher  to,  362-63; 
voucher  to,  383 

Campbell,  Scott,  34n 

Campbell,  Wm.:  voucher  to,  380 

Campbell  &  Sublette:  voucher  to,  381 

Camp  Cady,  677n 

Campions.  See  Silene  acaulis;  S.  drum- 
mondii 

Canaigre.  See  Rumex  hymenosepalus 

Canyons:  defined,  275,  682;  described, 
275-77,  280 

Captain  Creek,  173n 

Car  ex  atrata,  289,  310 

Car  ex  aurea,  310 

Carex  barbarae,  673 

Car  ex  jestucacea,  310 

Carex  panicea,  289,  310 

Carex  sitchensis.  See  C.  barbarae 

Carey,  John,  134n 

Carpetweed.  See  Chamaesyce  polygoni- 
jolia 

Carson,  Christopher  (Kit),  145,  174, 
177,  179,  227n,  242,  243,  253,  265, 
266-67,  456,  548,  561,  573;  JCF  hires, 
126n;  vouchers  to,  151,  382;  identified, 
151  n;  on  1842  expedition,  170;  horse- 
manship of,  180;  on  buffalo  hunt,  186- 
87;  re  hostile  Indians,  233—34,  688; 
joins  1843-44  expedition,  445;  and 
mule  mission,  450;  to  Snake  River, 
453;  to  Fort  Hall,  469;  brings  sup- 
plies to  JCF,  499;  on  Great  Salt  Lake, 
502;  re  California,  626,  631;  to  Sutter's 
Fort,  643;  and  Spanish  Trail  massacre, 
679,  680-81,  684;  leaves  expedition  at 
Bent's  Fort,  720 

Carson  Pass,  635n,  638n 

Carson  River,  611,  61 2n;  valley  of,  612 

Carstens  &  Schuetze:  vouchers  to,  78, 
143 

Carter,  Luther  M.:  voucher  to,  381 

Cartography:  JCF's  training  in,  xxix- 
XXX ;  and  1842  expedition,  15,  27,  52, 
224;  surveying,  17,  47,  59,  118,  129, 
130,  257;  and  1843-44  expedition,  574; 
experts  in  western  American,  MP  5-7; 
JCF's  1845  map  used  by  others,  MP 
13.    See  also  Maps;  Preuss,  Charles 

Carum  gairdneri,  296,  458,  494 

Carvaiho,  Solomon  Nunes,  xxxiii 

Carya  glabra,  12  In 


Carya  illinoensis,  1 2 1  n 

Carya  ovata,  121n 

Cascade  range,  555n,  562,  563,  571 

Cassia,  golden.  See  Cassia  jasciculata 

Cassia  chamaecrista.  See  C.  jascictdata 

Cassia  jasciculata,  294 

Castilleja  linariaefolia,  288,  301 

Castilleja  miniata,  288,  301 

Castilleja  pallida.  See  C.  linariaefolia 

Catchfly.  See  Silene  drummondii 

Cat's   ear.   See  Pachystima   myrsinites 

Cattle:    exchange   industry,    554-55;    on 

route  to  California,  575,  639n,  653 
Cayuse    Indians:    presents    to,    541;    at 

Whitman  mission,  552;  JCF  and,  583 
C.  D.  Sullivan  &  Co.:  voucher  to,  383 
Ceanothus  americanus.  See  C.  sanguineus 
Ceanothus  mollissimus.  See  C.  ovatus 
Ceanothus  ovatus,  293 
Ceanothus  sanguineus,  293 
Ceanothus  velutinus,  293 
Cedar  River,  119,  177 
Cedars:    incense,   see   Ubocedrus   decur- 

rens;  red,  see  Juniperus  scopulorum 
Cedar  Valley,  694n 
Celtis  crassifolia.  See  C.  reticulata 
Celtis  occidentalis,  121n 
Celtis  reticulata,  182,  309,  500 
Centrocercus  urophasianus,  715 
Cerasus.  See  Prunus  melanocarpa 
Cerasus  Virginiana.  See  Prunus  serotina 
Cercocarpus  parvifolius,  287,  295 
Cerre,  Michel  Sylvestre:  identified,  86n; 

as  witness,  86,  87,  125 
Chalk  Creek,  695n 
Chamaesyce  polygonifolia,  308 
Chapman,  Manuel  (voyageur):  on  1843- 

44  expedition,  427;  voucher  to,  427n 
Charbonneau    (Chabonard),    Jean    Bap- 

tiste,  202;  identified,  202n;  camp,  203 
Chardon,  F.  A.,  202n 
Chardonnais,  Moise  {voyageur)  :  voucher 

to,  153;  on  1842  expedition,  170 
Charity  Valley,  629n 
Charleston  Peak,  684n 
Chartran     (Chartrand),     Joseph     {voya- 
geur), 68n,  83;  voucher  to,  86 
Chartrain,  L.  B.,  228-29 
Chenopodium  album,  305 
Chenopodium  zostcrijolium,  305 
Chequest    (Chiquest)    Creek,    116,    117, 

118 


825 


Cherokee    Indian    territory:    survey    of, 

XXX,  4,  14n,  19,  124 
Cherries:  black  chokeberry,  see  Prunus 

melanocarpa;  choke,  see  Prunus  sero- 

tina;  ground,  see  Physalis  pubescens, 

Physalis  virginiana 
Cherry  Creek:  observations  taken  at,  438 
Chewaucan  River,  593n 
Cheyenne  (Shayen)  Indians:  tribal  wars, 

60;  accompany  JCF,  184-200;  toilette 

of,  199;  as  hostiles,  214,  221,  222,  363- 

64,  463-64;  encountered,  240 
Chicago  &  Northwestern  Railway,  58 
Childs,  George,  xxxiii,  xxxiv 
Chiles   (Child),  Joseph  B.,  387n,  390n, 

621,     693;     identified,     284n,     429n; 

voucher    to,    382;    and    wagon    train, 

429-30,  525 
Chilton,  H.:  voucher  to,  379;  identified, 

384n 
Chilton,    James    R.:    vouchers    to,    145, 

158n,  379;  identified,  145n 
Chiming  bells.  See  Mertensia  ciliata 
Chimney  Rock,  207,  215,  217 
Chippewa  Indians,  13n,  15 
Chlorogalum  pomeridianum,  368,  659 
Chouteau,    Cyprian:    voucher    to,    144; 

trading  posts,  144n,  158,  169,  171;  ob- 
servations taken  at  post  of,  169 
Chouteau,    Francis:     voucher    to,     144; 

identified,  144n 
Chouteau,  Francis  Gesseau,  145n 
Chouteau,  Henri,  32n;  vouchers  to,  31- 

32,75 
Chouteau,    Pierre,    Jr.,    9.    See    also    P. 

Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company 
Chouteau,   Pierre   Menard:    voucher   to, 

144;  identified,  145n 
Chouteau  &  Barlow:  voucher  to,  76 
Chouteau-DeMun   party,   68n 
Chouteau's  Landing,  169 
Chrysopsis.  See  Chrysopsis  hispida 
Chrysopsis  foliosa,  298 
Chrysopsis  hispida,  298 
Chrysopsis  mollis.  See  C.  foliosa 
Chrysothamnus  graveolens,  298,  404n 
Chrysothamnus  viscidiflora,  290 
Chylismia,  765 
Cicuta  maculata,  260,  296 
Cinquefoils:   see   Potentilla  anserina;   P. 

diversi folia;   P.  gracilis;   P.   sericea   /3 

glabrata;  tall,  see  P.  arguta 


Circium  Virginianum.  See  Cirsium  altis- 

simum 
Cirsium  altissimum ,  299,  494,  515 
Clammyweed.  See  Polanisia  trachysperma 
Clapp,    Benjamin:    letter    from,    125-26; 

identified,  126n;  voucher  to,  148 
Clark,  Ransom   (foyageur) :  voucher  to, 
381;  identified,  386n;  on  1843-44  ex- 
pedition, 427 
Clark,  William  S.,  386n 
Clematis  lasianthi.  See  C.  ligusticifolia 
Clematis  ligusticifolia,  290,  455,   535 
Clematis  Virginiana.  See  C.  ligusticifolia 
Clement,    Joseph     (voyageur) :    voucher 

to,  150;  on  1842  expedition,  170 
Cleome  integrifolia.  See  C.  serrulata 
Cleomella  (?)   obtusi folia,  759 
Cleome  serrulata,  287 
Clewett,  James  {voyageur),  36,  37n 
Clovers:  see  Onobrychis  arenaria;  bush, 
see  Lespedeza  capitata;  owl's,  see  Or- 
thocarpus   luteus;    purple    prairie,   see 
Petalostemon     purpureum;     tick,     see 
Desmodium  glutinosum;  white  prairie, 
see  Petalostemon  candidum 
Coal  deposits,  461,  469,  470,  569 
Cobb,  Sam  T.,  xxivn 
College  of  Charleston,  xxv 
College  of  William  and  Mary,  xxiin 
Collier  &  Pettus:  voucher  to,  45 
Colonel    Woods    (steamboat):    voucher 

to,  381 
Colorado  Park  country,  265-67,  711-20 
Colorado  River:  headwaters  of,  161,  258, 
711;   described,  467,  676,  713-15;   In- 
dians   of,    676,    714.    See    also    Green 
River 
Columbia  (barque):  at  Vancouver,  566 
Columbia    Indians:    JCF   on,    557,    558, 
559-60;  reputation  of,  558,  559;  tombs 
of,  570 
Columbian  Museum  &  Savannah  Adver- 
tiser, xxivn 
Columbia    River:    headwaters    of,    161, 
258;  navigation  on,  554,  555,  560,  572; 
geology  along,  555;  falls  of,  559;  the 
Dalles,  560,  573;  trips  on,  561-66;  sub- 
merged forest,  572.  See  also  Fort  Van- 
couver 
Columbine.  See  Aquilegia  coerulea 
Commissioner    of    Indian    Affairs:    pro- 
vides Nicollet  circulars,  47 


826 


Common   horsetail.   See   Eqttisetum   ar- 

vense 
Common  yarrow.  See  Achillea  millefo- 
lium 
Compositae,  369,  766 
Coneflowers:  see  RudbecJ^ia  sp.;  prairie, 

see  Ratibida  columnaris 
Congressional  Globe,  xix 
Connell,  Robt.:  voucher  to,  390 
Convollaria  stellata.  See  Smilacina  stellata 
Conway,  James:  voucher  to,  380 
Conyza  canadense ,  298 
Cooper,  Maj.  Stephen:  letter  to,  411-12; 

and  1845  expedition,  411-12;  biograph- 
ical data,  412 
Coq   de   Prairie.   See   Centrocercus  uro- 

phasianus 
Coralberry.    See    Symphoricarpus    oreo- 

philus 
Cordua   (Coudrois),  Theodor,  655 
Coreopsis  tinctoria,  299 
Cornus  circinata.  See  C.  rugosa 
Corn  us  rugosa,  297 
Cornus  stolonijera,  297 
Cosmidium    gracile.    See    Thelesperma 

gracile 
Cosumnes  River,  658 
Coteau  des  Prairies:  named  by  voyageurs, 

24;  described,  67,  98 
Cottonwood  Creek,  234 
Cottonwood  Spring,  685n 
Cottonwood  River,  14,  15,  18n 
Cotton  woods:   see  Populus  angustifolia; 

P.  deltoides;  eastern,  see  P.  deltoides; 

narrow-leaved,    see     P.     angustifolia; 

tree,  see  P.  sargentii 
Coulter,  Thomas,  369n 
Coureurs   des   bois    (traders),    219,    220 
Cournoyer,  George,  41 
Courteau  (Cortot),  Philibert  {voyageur): 

voucher   to,  382;   identified,  386n;   on 

1843-44  expedition,  427;  discharged  at 

Sutter's  Fort,  657n 
Courthouse  Rock,  215 
Cove  Fort,  695n 
Cowania  plicata.  See  Emplectocladus  fas- 

cicidatus 
Cowie,  Thomas  {voyageur) :  voucher  to, 

383;  joins  1843—44  expedition,  706n 
Cow  parsnip.  See  Heracleum  maximum 
Coyotes:   water   holes  of,  678 
Cram,  Capt.  Thomas  }.,  377 


Crawford,  T.  Hartley:  letter  to,  417-18 

Creely  (Crelis),  Michael  (voyageur):  re- 
turns at  Fort  Hall,  355n,  386n,  520; 
voucher  to,  382;  on  1843-44  expedi- 
tion, 427 

Creosote  bush.  See  Larrea  glutinosa 

Crepis  glauca,  300 

Creuss,  William  {voyageur) :  returns  at 
Fort  Hall,  355n,  386n,  520;  voucher 
to,  382;  on  1843-44  expedition,  427 

Crooks,  Ramsay:  identified,  9n,  19n;  let- 
ters to,  99-100 

Crooks,  Abbott  &  Company,  126n 

Croton.  See  Croton  texensis 

Croton  capitatus,  308 

Croton  texensis,  308 

Crow  Creek,  206 

Crowfoot.   See  Ranunculus  scleratus 

Crow  Indians,  221,  222,  224;  Beck- 
wourth  with,  202n;  intertribal  wars, 
451,  462;  as  warriors,  493 

Cruciferae,  391,412,  683 

Crump  (Christmas)   Lake,  596n 

Cudweeds.  See  Gnaphalium  palustre;  G. 
uliginosum 

Cummings,  Mary,  102;  identified,  103n 

Cummings,  Mary  Jane:  as  JCF's  land- 
lady, 103n;  vouchers  to,  104,  110,  112 

Cummins,  Maj.  Richard  W.,  428;  identi- 
fied, 415n 

Currants:  see  Ribes  cereum;  bush,  see 
R.  aureum,  R.  cereum;  black,  see 
R.  montigerum,  R.  viscosissimum; 
swamp,  see  R.  echinatum;  yellow,  see 
R.  aureum 

Cycloloma  atriplicifolium,  305 

Cycloloma  platyphylla.  See  C.  atriplici- 
folium 

Daily    National    Intelligencer,    xix;     re 

1843—44  expedition,  355n 
Dakota  Central  Railway,  59 
Dalea  fremontii,  679 
The  Dalles.  See  Columbia  River 
Dana,  James  D.:  re  minerals,  169,  581 
Darlingtonia   hrachypoda.   See   Desman- 

thus  leptolobus 
Davis,  Saml.  H.  {voyageur):  voucher  to, 

383 
Day,    Horace:    vouchers    to,    141,    379; 

identified,  141  n 
Day,  John:  identified,  558n 


827 


Death  Valley,  683n 

Decatur,  Stephen,  xxvii 

Deep  Creek,  483n,  489 

Deer  brush.  See  Ceanothus  velutinus 

Deer  Creek,  238,  240 

De Forrest  (Deforest),  CUnton  {voya- 
geur):  returns  at  Fort  Hall,  355n, 
386n,  520;  voucher  to,  382;  on  1843- 
44  expedition,  427 

Delaware  Indians:  and  intertribal  wars, 
363,  364,  721 

Delphinium.     See     Delphinium     geyeri 

Delphinium  geyeri,  456 

Dentan  (Danton),  Samuel,  27,  28n 

Derosier,  Baptiste  (voyageur),  502,  643, 
645,  646;  voucher  to,  382;  on  1843-44 
expedition,  427;  with  JCF  to  Snake 
River,  453;  lost,  649-57n 

Derosier,  Therese:  voucher  to,  390n, 
657n 

Deschampsia  caespitosa,  311 

Deschutes  (Fall)  River,  558,  559,  575, 
577n,  578,  583 

Descoteaux  (voyageur),  170n,  265-66n, 
267;  on  1842  expedition,  181n;  on 
Platte  River  run,  275-78 

Desmanthus  leptolobus,  294 

DeSmet,  Pierre-Jean,  68n,  249 

Desmodium  acuminatum.  See  D.  glu- 
tinosum 

Desmodium  glutinosum,  294 

Des  Moines  River:  botany  along,  115, 
116;  geology  of,  115-18;  observations 
taken  on,  117,  118,  134;  dams  on,  118; 
rapids  of,  118,  134-35;  navigability  of, 
119,  134 

Des  Moines  River  survey,  96,  134-35; 
men  on,  115;  map  of,  115,  120n;  re- 
port of,  115-20;  log  of,  120;  report 
printed,  135n.  See  also  Financial  rec- 
ords for   Des  Moines   River   survey 

Devil's  Gate,  247,  249n,  464;  geology  of, 

162,  288;  plants  of,  166 
Devil's  Hole,  568 

Devils  Lake  (Lac  du  Diable),  20,  48,  62, 
64,  65,  69n;  observations  taken  at,  65; 
mapping  of  region  of,  MP  8,  9 
Diamond  Valley,  627n 
A  Diary  in  America,  21n 
Dickerson,  Mahlon,  xxvii-xxviii,  xxix 
Dickins,    Asbury:    letter    to,    421;    and 
Nicollet  map,  MP  9 


Dickson,  Robert,  68n 

Dickson   (Dixon),  WilHam,  52,  53,  57, 

61,  65,  68n,  82;  voucher  to,  80 
Dieteria.  See  Machaeranthera  viscosa 

Dieteria  cornonopifolia.  See  Machaeran- 
thera coronopifolia 

Dieteria  divaricata.  See  Machaeranthera 
divaricata 

Dieteria  pulverulenta.  See  Machaeran- 
thera pulverulenta 

Dieteria  viscosa.  See  Machaeranthera  vis- 
cosa 

Digger  Indians,  487,  598,  613;  language, 
497,  687;  treachery  of,  609-12;  lizard 
eaters,  688;  harass  1843-44  expedirion, 
687-88 

Dinnies  and  Radford:  vouchers  to,  106, 
142;  identified,  107n 

Disappointment  Island.  See  Fremont 
Island 

Distichlis  spicata,  189 

Docks:  see  Rumex  mexicanus;  sour,  see 
R.  hymenosepalus 

Dodecatheon  dentatum.  See  D.  radica- 
tum 

Dodecatheon  radicatum,  263,  289,  300, 
645,  647 

Dodge,  Col.  Henry,  437n 

Dodson,  Jacob,  xxxiv,  388n,  502,  632, 
637,  643,  644,  645;  voucher  to,  383; 
on  1843-44  expedition,  427;  identified, 
427-28n;  with  JCF  to  Snake  River, 
453;  on  Columbia  River  trip,  561 

Dogs:  Sibley's  wolfhounds,  7,  8;  join 
1843-44  expedition,  495;  killed  for 
food,  626,  635 

Dogwoods:  red  osier,  see  Cornus  stoloni- 
fera;  round-leaved,  see  C.  rugosa 

Dorion,  Jean  Baptiste:  vouchers  to,  79, 
80;  identified,  79n;  listed,  82,  89 

Douglas,  Thomas:  colony  of,  63-64,  69n 

Dousman,  Hercules  L.,  37n,  40,  41,  82; 
draft  to,  38 

Downes,  John:  voucher  to,  390 

Downes,  Com.  John,  xxix 

Doyle,  David:  re  Fremon-Pryor  scandal, 
xxii 

Doyle,  J.  B.,  436n 

Drayton,  Joseph,  401 

Drips,  Andrew:  letter  to,  125-26;  iden- 
tified, 126n 

Dry  (Alkali)  Lake,  598 


828 


Ducatel,  Julius  Timoleon,  132n 

Duchesne  River,  705 

Duckbill.  See  Pedicularis  groenlandica 

Dumes,  Jean  Baptiste:  voucher  to,  149; 
on  1842  expedition,  170;  leaves  expedi- 
tion, 241 

Dwight,  Frederick,  430,  499;  and  1843- 
44  expedition,  426;  identified,  427n 

Dyomme,  Benjamin,  35 


Eagle  Nest  rapids,  120,  134 
Eakin,  Constant  M.:   voucher   to,  93 
Earl   of  Selkirk.   See  Douglas,  Thomas 
East  Carson  River,  624n,  627n 
East  Fork  River,  254 
East  Plum  Creek,  447n 
East  Walker  River,  613n,  616n 
Echinocystis  watsoni,   659n 
Edosmia  Gairdneri.  See  Cartim  gairdneri 
Edwards,  John  Cummins,  134-35 
Edwd.  Perry  &  Co.:  voucher  to,  380 
1842  expedition,  169-285;  planned,  121- 
28  passim;  men  on,  170;  JCF  re  fortifi- 
cation of  area  of,  192,  201,  233;  area 
covered,    286-90.    See    also    Financial 
records   for    1842    expedition;    Kansas 
River    survey;    Platte    River    survey; 
South  Pass 
1843-44   expedition,   426-725;   men   on, 
427-28;   purpose   of,   428-29,   574-75, 
698-703.    See    also    Columbia    River; 
Financial  records  for   1843^4  expedi- 
tion; Great  Basin  country;  Great  Salt 
Lake;      Sierra      Nevada      Mountains; 
Snake  River;  Spanish  Trail 
1845    expedition:    plans    for,    367,    374; 
Abert  outlines,  395-97,  399,  403,  407-8, 
422-23,  424,  425 
Eld,    Henry:    re    Kern's    appointment, 

416n 
Elders:   see   Sambucus  canadensis;    box, 

see  Negnndo  aceroides 
Eleagnus  argentea,  289,  308 
Eleagnus  argenteus.  See  E.  argentea 
Elephant    head.    See    Pedicularis   groen- 
landica 
Elephant's  Back,  628,  632n,  633n,  635n 
Elizabeth  Lake:  salt,  672 
Elk  Head  River,  709 

Elk   Mountain    (Medicine   Butte),   459- 
60;  observations  taken  at,  459 


Elm  Grove,  429,  525 

Elms:  American,  see  Ulmus  americana; 
slippery,  see  U.  rubra 

Ely m  us,  707 

Ely m  us  canadensis,  311 

Elymus  virginicus,  311 

Emigrant  Pass,  684n 

Emigrants  encountered:  on  1842  expedi- 
tion, 175,  236;  on  1843-44  expedition, 
429,  468,  473,  476,  478,  516,  525,  526, 
532-33,  539,  546,  552,  554,  558,  560, 
567,568,571,572,677 

Emplectocladus  fasciculatus,  404n,  764 

Encampment  River,  71 2n 

Enchanted  Hill:  observations  taken  at, 
65 

Endicott,  George,  391,  397,  409;  identi- 
fied, 392n 

Endicott,  William,  392n 

Engages.  See  Voyageurs 

Engelmann,  George,  670;  vouchers  to, 
77,  78;  re  Lindheimer,  -158;  barometer 
check,  227,  273,  317,  372;  meteorologi- 
cal observations,  317-37;  re  JCF  and 
botanists,  346,  375;  letters  from,  346- 
47,  375;  letter  to,  371-72;  re  Liiders 
and  Geyer  collections,  371  n,  375 

Ephedra  nevadensis,  604,  607,  615,  666, 
685 

Ephedra  occidentalis.  See  E.  nevadensis 

Epilohium  adenocaulon ,  295 

Epilobium  an gusti folium,  295 

Epilohium  coloratum.  See  E.  adenocaulon 

Epilohium  spicatum.  See  E.  angusti- 
folium 

Epinettes  des  prairies.  See  Grindelia 
squarrosa 

Equipment:  on  1842  expedition,  11,  31- 
43  passim,  50,  55,  69-83  passim.  85-94 
passim,  104-15  passim,  123,  136-58 
passim,  193,  227,  231,  257,  259;  break- 
age and  loss  of,  226,  238,  242,  256,  265, 
273,  277,  279,  377-90  passim,  415,  449, 
549;  on  1843-44  expedition,  349,  352, 
377-90  passim,  417,  428,  496,  526,  561, 
566,  567,  577,  620,  784 

Equisetum  arvense,  179,  231,  235,  311, 
443,  446 

Equisetum  hyemale,  443,  501 

Erigeron  belli diastrum,  298 

Erigeron  canadensis.  See  Con\za  cana- 
dense 


829 


Erigeron  glabellum.  See  E.  glabellus 

Erigeron  glabellus,  298 

Erigeron  macranthum.  See  E.  macran- 
thus 

Erigeron  macranthus ,  298 

Erigeron  salsuginosus,  298 

Erigeron  strigosum.  See  E.  strigosus 

Erigeron  strigosus,  298 

Eriogonum.  See  E.  annuum;  E.  inftatum 

Eriogonum  annuum,  307 

Eriogonum  brevicaule,  307 

Eriogonum   caespitosum,   288,  307 

Eriogonum  cordalum.  See  E.  cor  datum 

Eriogonum  cordatum,  770 

Eriogonum  fasciculatum ,  672 

Eriogonum  fremontii.  See  B.  brevicaule 

Eriogonum  inflatum,  677,  685,  769 

Eriogonum  ovalifolium,  307 

Eriogonum  reniforme,  770 

Eriogonum  umbellatum,  307 

Er odium  cicutarium,  649,  660,  665,  669- 
70,  768 

Erysimum  asperum,  291 

Erysimum  cheiranthoides,  291 

Eschscholtzia  californica,  397,  652,  660, 
672 

Eschscholtzia  crocea.  See  E.  californica 

Esparcette.  5e(?  Onobrychis  arenaria 

Espy,  James  P.:  report  of,  409;  identi- 
fied, 410n 

Eupatorium  bruneri,  500 

Eupatorium  purpureum.  See  E.  bruneri 

Euphorbia  corollata,  308 

Euphorbia  marinata,  308 

Euphorbia  obtusata,  308 

Euphorbia  poly goni folia.  See  Chamaesyce 
polygonifolia 

European  larch.  5<fd'  Lan'r  occidentalis 

Eurotia  lanata,  288,  305 

Eustoma  russellianum ,  304 

Eutoca  sericea.  See  Phacelia  sericea 

Everlastings,  ^d-e-  Gnaphalium  palustre; 
G.  uliginosum 

Ewan,  Joseph,  xxxvii 

Ewan,  Nesta  Dunn,  xxxvii 

E.  Weber  &  Co.,  MP  10,  14 

Faith  Valley,  628,  629n,  633n 

Fall  Creek,  523 

Fallon,  Thomas  {voyageur) :  voucher 
to,  382;  identified,  386n,  453n;  dis- 
charged at  Sutter's  Fort,  657n 

Fall  River.  See  Deschutes  River 


False  Solomon's  seal.  See  Smilacina  stel- 
lata 

Faribault,  Alexander:  on  hunting  trip, 
17,  18;  identified,  19n;  listed,  39 

Faribault  (Ferribault),  David:  listed,  39, 
41  n;  identified,  40n 

Faribault,  Jean  Baptiste,  40n 

Farragut,  David  G.,  xxvii 

Feather  River,  655 

Fescue.  See  Festuca  ovina 

Festuca,  432,  516,  542,  596,  604,  627,  670, 
672,  674,  691,  692 

Festuca  nutans.  See  F.  obtusa 

Festuca  obtusa,  311 

Festuca  ovina,  311 

Field,  Matthew  C:  re  hostile  Indians, 
463n 

Fifteenmile  Creek,  577,  578 

Filagree.  See  Erodium  cicutarium 

Financial  records:  for  Nicollet's  1838 
expedition,  25-44  passim;  for  Nicollet's 
1839  expedition,  45-48,  69-83,  85-94; 
for  Des  Moines  River  survey,  104-15; 
for  1842  expedition,  123-28  passim, 
136-58,  378,  379;  for  1843-44  expedi- 
tion, 379-90 

Fireweed.  See  Epilobium  angustifolium 

Firs:  alpine,  see  Abies  lasiocarpa;  Doug- 
las, see  Pseudotsuga  menziesii;  white, 
see  A.  concolor 

1st  Dragoons:  survey  of  1838,  96 

Fischer,  William:  vouchers  to,  91,  106, 
139,  383;  identified,  91  n 

Fitzpatrick,  Thomas  ("Broken  Hand"), 
151n,  222n,  385n;  re  Platte  River  rap- 
ids, 183,  283;  and  Oregon  emigrants, 
222,  223;  voucher  to,  383;  as  JCF's 
assistant,  432-52n  passim,  522,  575, 
589-639  passim 

Flags,  expedition,  270n;  Abert  approves, 
45;  trimming  for,  75,  77,  78,  156;  en- 
sign purchased,  88,  385;  Benton  re, 
165 

Flandin,  J.  Eugene,  10,  14,  384n;  on 
Nicollet  1838  expedition,  lln;  salary 
of,  45,  74;  leaves  expedition,  48,  49n; 
vouchers  to,  74,  79,  379;  listed,  82 

Flandin,  Pierre,  lln 

Flaxes:  see  Linum  lewisii;  L.  rigidum; 
blue  flowering,  see  L.  lewisii 

Fleabanes:  see  Erigeron  bellidiastrum; 
E.  glabellus;  E.  macranthus;  E.  salsugi- 
nosus; daisy,  see  E.  strigosus 


830 


Flijgge,  C.  W.:  voucher  to,  382 

Fontenelle,  Lucien,  151n 

Fontenelle,  Fitzpatrick  &  Co.,  21  In 

Food:  feasdng  and  enjoyment  of,  17,  61, 
181,  190,  192,  245,  273,  451,  503,  514, 
528,  538,  562,  596,  617;  shortages  and 
hunger,  174,  212,  235,  241,  258,  355, 
439,  483,  502,  513,  552,  608,  626,  632, 
633,  640.  See  also  Indian  foods;  Sup- 
plies 

Forestdale  Creek,  633n 

Forget-me-not.   See   Myosotis   glomerata 

Fort  Adams,  146n,  147n 

Fort  Boise,  533,  537;  and  supplies,  538; 
Indians  of,  538 

Fort  Bridger,  467n,  468-69n,  693n.  See 
also  Bridger,  Jim 

Fort  Churchill,  612n 

Fort  Clark,  202n 

Fort  Crawford,  50n 

Fort  Davy  Crockett,  708 

Fort  George.  See  Fort  St.  Vrain 

Fort  Hall,  149n,  222,  452,  483;  location 
of,  453;  history  of,  518-19;  described, 
520;  JCF  re,  520,  521 

Fort  Jackson:  abandoned,  437n 

Fort  John,  83,  146n.  See  also  Fort  Lar- 
amie 

Fort  Lancaster,  437 

Fort  Laramie,  183,  232n;  described,  211, 
218-19;  history  of,  21  In;  Preuss 
reaches,  218;  suitable  for  military  post, 
233;  welcomes  JCF  party,  281-82, 
284 

Fort  Leavenworth,  122 

Fort  Leaven  worth-Fort  Snelling  road: 
survey  of,  96 

Fort  Lookout.  See  Fort  St.  Vrain 

Fort  Lucien.  See  Fort  Laramie 

Fort  Nez  Perce.  See  Fort  Walla  Walla 

Fort  Pierre,  51,  55,  68n,  211n,  218n, 
265n;  observations  taken  at,  52,  59 

Fort  Platte,  146,  147,  210,  224 

Fort  Ross,  654-55n 

Fort  St.  Vrain,  156n,  157n,  233,  447, 
450;  trip  to,  192-204;  described,  204; 
observations  taken  at,  205;  and  1843- 
44  expedition,  436 

Fort  Snelling,  7,  8,  12,  19n,  21n,  34n, 
38,  49,  69n;  location  of,  18n 

Fort  Uintah:  history  of  706n.  See  also 
Uintah  Fort 

Fort  Uncompagre,  706n 


Fort  Union,  68n 

Fort  Vancouver,  341,  612n;  1843-44  ex- 
pedition and,  166,  341,  566-67 

Fort  Vasquez:   abandoned,  437n 

Fort  Walla  Walla,  553;  and  emigrant 
trains,  554;  JCF  and  supplies,  555 

Fort  William  (Ore.),  203n 

Fort  William  (Wyo.).  See  Fort  Laramie 

Fossil  specimens:  of  1843—44  expedition, 
744-56 

Foster,  James:  voucher  to,  381 

Fountain  Creek  (Fontaine-qui-bouit), 
436,  449,  718;  described,  443;  observa- 
tions taken  at,  443 

Four  Mile  Creek:  observation  taken  at, 
458 

Fourmile  Creek,  715n 

Fournaise,  Joseph  (voyageur),  68n,  82, 
83n;  voucher  to,  86 

Fox  Indians,  15,  121n 

Fox  River,  115,  12 In 

Foxtail.  See  Hordeum  jubatum 

Fraeb  (Frapp),  Henry:  killed,  221,  222, 
709;  identified,  22 In 

Fragaria   virginiana,   398 

Franchere,  Gabriel,  19,  270-71n 

Francis,  H.,  37 

Franseria  discolor.  See  F.  tomentosa 

Franseria  dtimosa,  768 

Franseria  tomentosa,  298,  768 

Frasera  speciosa.  See  Swertia  radiata 

Fraxinus.  See  F.  pennsylvanica 

Fraxinus  americana,  434 

Fraxinus  pennsylvanica,  434 

Fraxinus  platycarpa,  305 

Frederick  Gebhardt  and  Co.,  19n 

Fremon,  Ann  Beverly  Whiting  Pryor 
(mother) :  biographical  data,  xxii-xxiv. 
See  also  Hale,  Mrs.  Ann  B. 

Fremon,  Charles  (father):  ancestry, 
xxii;  as  teacher,  xxii;  elopement,  xxiii; 
death,  xxiv 

Fremon,  Elizabeth    (sister),  xxiv;  died. 


XXVI 


Fremon,  Frank  (brother),  xxiv,  ll-12n, 

22 
Fremon,  Nina  (niece  and  ward),  12n 
Fremon-Prvor  scandal,  xxii-xxiv 
Fremont,  Elizabeth  Benton   (daughter), 

xxxi,  XXXV,  xxxvi,  132n,  270n,  361 
Fremont,  Frank  (son),  xxxiv," xxxvi 
Fremont,  Jessie  Benton,  xxi,  xxxiii,  xxxiv, 

xxxvi,    102,    132,    270n;    marriage    to 


831 


Fremont,  Jessie  Benton  (cont.) 

JCF,    xvii,    103n;    writings    of,    xvii, 
xviii,  xxxvi,  xxxviii;  as  amanuensis  for 
JCF,  xviii,  75,  81-82,  96,   111,   120n, 
377n,  574n;  and  howitzer,  346n;  letter 
to,  349;  letters  from,  352-53,  354-55, 
356-57,  358-59,  360,  361-62;  re  1843- 
44  expedition's  progress,  354-55,  356- 
57,  360,  361-62;  re  JCF  and  criticism, 
358-59 
Fremont,    John    Charles:    published    re- 
ports of,  xvii,  xix,  xxxi,  xxxii,  xxxiii, 
xxxiv,    xxxvi;    court-martial,  xvii,  xx, 
xxxii,  50n,  401  n;  in  politics,  xvii,  xxi; 
and  Lincoln,  xvii;  gold  mines  of,  xvii; 
death  of,  xvii,  xxxvi;  in  Civil  War, 
xvii,  XX,  xxxiv;  marriage,  xviii,  103n; 
poem  quoted,  xx-xxi;  parentage,  xxi- 
xxiii;  spelling  of  name,  xxiin,  xxxiii; 
education,  xxiv,  xxv;  appearance,  xxv; 
as    surveyor,    xxvi,    xxix,    xxx;    naval 
career,  xxvi,  xxvii,  xxviii;  and  Topo- 
graphical Engineers,  xxix,  xxx,  3,  9n, 
24,  44,  395;  as  governor  of  California, 
xxxii;   letters  from,   10,   12-13,  20-24, 
44,  48-49,  83-84,  99-100,  115,  128-29, 
131-32,  134-35,  161-63,  165-66,  343, 
354,  362-64,  366-68,  370-74,  375-77, 
391-92,  395,  397-98,  400-412,  415-16, 
418-19,    420-21,    423,    424;    hunting 
trip,   17-18,  19n;  vouchers  to,  38-39, 
378,   383;   romance,   96,   98,   99n;    re 
military    significance    of    exploration, 
233,  343,  345,  349,  351,  364,  407,  520, 
588,  700;  letters  to,  342,  344-46,  365, 
395-97,   398,   399,   403,   415,   416-17, 
422-23;  and  maps,  MP  5-16.  See  also 
Des  Moines  River  survey;  1842  expedi- 
tion;   1843-44    expedition;     1845    ex- 
pedition;   Nicollet's    1838    expedition; 
Nicollet's   1839  expedition 

Fremont  Butte,  254n,  273;  observations 
taken  at,  255 

Fremontia.  See  Sarcobatus  vermicularis 

Fremontia  vermicularis.   See  Sarcobatus 
vermicularis 

Fremont  Island,  483n,  510n 

Fremont  Pass,  604 

Fremont  Peak,  267n,  270n,  271n 

Fremont's  geranium.  See  Geranium  fre- 
montii 

French  Academy  of  Sciences,  5 


Freniere  (Frenier),  Louison,  52,  53,  61, 
65,  66,  82,  89;  rescues  JCF,  55,  56; 
described,  57;  identified,  69n;  voucher 
to,  79;  listed,  82,  89 

Fringed  loosestrife.  See  Steironema  cilia- 
turn 

Frink,  Walker,  &  Co.:  voucher  to,   142 

Frog  fruit.  See  Lippia  cuneijolia 

Fronchet,  Desire  (Francois  Dezirie),  36, 
37n 

Frye  &  Shaw:  voucher  to,  379;  identi- 
fied, 384n 

Fuentes,  Andreas,  724;  voucher  to,  383; 
and  Spanish  Trail  massacre,  677-79 

Funding:  for  1842  expedition,  3,  24,  28, 
29,  43^9,  94,  100,  122,  123,  126,  127, 
128,  164;  for  1843-44  expedition,  345, 
348,  350,  353,  354,  355-56,  358,  362, 
396,  403.  See  also  Financial  records 

Gaillardia  aristata,  449,  450 

Gales  and  Seaton,  xix 

Galium  boreale,  297 

Gallatin,  Albert,  MP  12 

Galpin,  Charles  E.,  218,  227 

Gannett  Peak,  270n,  27 In 

Garrya  elliptica.  See   G.  fremontii 

Garrya  fremontii,  666,  689 

Gate  of  Lodore,  707n 

Gaty,  Samuel,  77n 

Gaty,  Coonce  &  Beltshoover:  voucher  to, 

77 
Gaura  coccinea,  296,  413,  766 
Gauropsis,  765 
Gavin,  Daniel,  28n 
Gayophytum  diffusum,  413,  766 
Gea,  Jean   Baptiste    {voyageur),  25,  26, 

27n,  41 
Gedney,  Thomas   R.:   voucher   to,    138; 

identified,  138n 
Geese,  27,  661,  662 
Gentian  a  affinis,  304 
Gentiana  arctophila  densifiora.  See  Ama- 

rella  arctophila 
Gentiana  calycosa,  304 
Gentiana  fremontii.   See   G.   prostrata 
Gentiana  pneumonanthe.  See  G.  calycosa 
Gentiana  prostrata,  304 
Gentians:  see  Amarella  arctophila;  Gen- 
tiana affinis;  G.  calycosa;  moss,  see  G. 

prostrata;  prairie,  see  Eustoma  russel- 

lianum 


832 


Geological  specimens:  collected  on  1842 
expedition,  99;  on  1843—44  expedition, 
392,  395,  408,  469,  581,  730-56 

Geranium  fremontii,  288,  292 

Geranium  maculatum.  See  G.  richard- 
sonii 

Geranium  richardsonii,  450 

Gerardia.  See  Gerardia  tenuifolia 

Gerardia  longifolia.  See   G.  tenuifolia 

Gerardia  tenuifolia,  301 

Gerdes,  Ferdinand  H.:  letter  from,  101-2; 
identified,  I03n 

Gerlach,  Nev.,  603 

Gett,  W.  W.:  voucher  to,  382 

Geum  canadense,  295 

Geum  virginianum.  See  G.  canadense 

Geyer,  Charles  A.,  10,  45,  46,  52;  identi- 
fied, Iln;  on  Nicollet's  1838  expedi- 
tion, 14,  27;  salary,  45,  74;  vouchers 
to,  74,  75,  82,  85,  112;  financial  diffi- 
culties, 97,  99n;  and  Nicollet  geologi- 
cal specimens,  98;  JCF  re,  159n,  370- 
71;  and  Stewart  expedition,  347n 

Giacome,  Santiago:  death  of,  677-84 

Gibbs,  George:  and  JCF's  1845  map, 
MP  13 

Gilia.  See  Gilia  aggregata 

Gilia  aggregata,  288,  303,  439,  443 

Gilia  (Cantua)  longiflora.  See  G.  longi- 
flora 

Gilia  inconspicua,  303 

Gilia  longiflora,  303 

Gilia  pulc'hella.  See  G.  aggregata 

Gilmer,  Thomas,  361n 

Gilpin,  William:  on  1843—44  expedition, 
430;  identified,  430n;  at  the  Dalles, 
573 

Girardin,  L.  H.:  academy  of,  xxii;  re 
Fremon-Pryor  scandal,  xxii,  xxiii;  and 
pamphlet,  xxiiin 

Glasgow,  Edward  J.:  re  1843-44  expedi- 
tion, 361;  identified,  362n 

Glaux  maritima,  300 

Gliddon,  George  Robbins,  401n 

Glyceria  striata,  311 

Glycyrrhiza  lepidota,  293,  446,  500 

Gnaphalium  palustre,  299 

Gnaphalium  uliginosum,  299 

Goat,  mountain.  See  Ovis  canadensis 

Goat  Island,  245,  275;  return  to,  281 

Godey  (Godare),  Alexander,  619,  632, 
635;  voucher  to,  383;  identified,  452n; 


and  Spanish  Trail  massacre,  679-81, 
684 

Goebel,  David,  99 

Gold:  region  of  on  1848  map,  MP  16 

Goldenrods:  see  Solidago  incana;  S.  mis- 
souriensis;  S.  rigida;  late,  see  S.  sero- 
tina;  showy,  see  S.  speciosa 

Goodfellow,  David:  voucher  to,  379 

Gooseberries:  see  Ribes  irriguum;  R.  spe- 
ciosum;  fuchsia-flowered,  see  R.  speci- 
osum 

Goose  Creek,  527 

Goosefoot.  See  Chenopodium  zosterifo- 
lium 

Gordon,  Alexander,  347n 

Gore  Canyon,  714 

Goshen's  Hole,  209 

Grain  de  Boeuf.  See  Shepherdia  argentea 

Grand  Island,  182;  JCF  re  military  post 
at,  283 

Grand  Ronde  (Rond)  River:  JCF  re 
farming,  545;  valley  of,  545-47;  soil 
analysis,  546 

Granite  Creek  Desert,  602 

Granite  mountains:  observations  taken 
in,  250 

Granite  Range,  602 

Grant,  Richard:   at  Fort  Hall,  518-19n 

Grant,  Ulysses  S.:  Personal  Memoirs, 
xxxvi,  15 

Grapes:  see  Vitis  riparia;  Oregon,  see 
Berberis  aquifolium 

Grasses:  autumn  bent,  see  Agrostis  pe- 
rennans;  beargrass,  see  Yucca  glauca; 
blue-eyed,  see  Sisyrinchium  anceps; 
bluegrass,  see  Poa  fernaldiana,  P.  palu- 
stris;  brome,  see  Bromus  ciliatus;  buf- 
falo, see  Buchloe  dactyloides;  bunch, 
see  Festuca;  "coarse  stiflf,"  see  Carex 
barbarae;  crested  hair,  see  Koeleria 
cristata;  fescue,  see  Festuca  obtusa; 
hair,  see  Deschampsia  caespitosa;  In- 
dian, see  Sorghastrum  nutans;  manna, 
see  Glyceria  striata;  peppergrass,  see 
Lepidium  virginicum;  poverty,  see 
Aristida  longiseta;  salt,  see  Distichlis 
spicata;  slough,  see  Becl^mannia  syzi- 
gachne;  sweet,  see  Hierochloe  odorata; 
wire,  see  Aristida  longiseta,  Juncus 
echinatus 

Grasshopper  plague,  237,  240 

Gray,  Asa,  405;  letters  to,  130,  341,  346- 


833 


Gray,  Asa  (cont.) 
47,  375;  identified,  1 30-31  n;  letters 
from,  133,  158-59,  369,  391,  393,  394, 
412-14;  re  JCF's  botanical  collection, 
133,  158,  391,  392-93,  394,  412-14;  re 
Lindheimer,  158-59;  re  Jeffries  Wy- 
man,  369;  re  catalogue  of  plants,  393; 
and  pamphlet  for  catalogue,  393 

Greasewood.  See  Sarcobatus  vermicularis 

Great  Basin,  541,  573,  614,  621,  638,  667; 
explored,  694-709;  on  1845  map,  MP 
13 

Great  Bend:  rapids,  118,  120,  134,  135 

"Great  Events  during  the  Life  of  Major 
General  John  C.  Fremont,"  xxin,  xxxii, 
lln 

Great  Salt  Lake,  471-72;  trip  to,  482- 
501;  boat  expedition,  502-11;  and 
water  worms,  506;  analysis  of,  512; 
on  1845  map,  MP  12.  See  also  Fre- 
mont Island 

Greek  valerian.  See  Polemonium  caeru- 
leum 

Green,  James:  vouchers  to,  43,  71,  106, 
136;  identified,  43n 

Greene,  David:  re  JCF's  route,  552n 

Greenfield,  Jas.  T.:  voucher  to,  381 

Green  River,  459,  467n;  tributaries  of, 
254,  256;  names  for,  466-67;  observa- 
tions taken  at,  467;  sighted,  707.  See 
also  Colorado  River 

Greenthread.  See  Thelesperma  gracile 

Griffith,  D.  W.:  voucher  to,  380 

Grimes,  Eliab,  653n 

Grimsley,  Thornton:  voucher  to,  380 

Grimsley  and  Young:  vouchers  to,  79, 
109 

Grindelia  squarrosa,  298,  485 

Gromwells:  see  Uthospermutn  gtnelini; 
false,  see  Onosmodium  occidentale 

Gros  Ventre  Indians:  as  hostiles,  214, 
222,  710 

Groundnut.  See  Apios  americana 

Groundsel.  See  Senecio  triangularis 

Grovers  Springs,  628n 

Guernsey,  Wyo.,  23 In 

Guion  (Gouin),  Louis  {voyageur): 
vouchers  to,  149,  383,  388n,  390;  on 
1842  expedition,  170 

Guion,  Capt.  William  Bowling:  survey 
of,  96,  135n 

Gumplant.  See  Grindelia  squarrosa 


Gumweeds:     see     Grindelia    squarrosa; 

curlycup,  see  G.  squarrosa 
Gutierrezia  euthamiae.  See  G.  sarothrae 
Gutierrezia  sarothrae,  298 
Gymnocladus  dioicus,  121n 

Habenaria  hyperborea,  309 
Habenaria  leucophaea,  309 
Hackberries:  see  Celtis  occidentalis;  tree, 

see    C.    reticulata;    net-leaved,    see    C. 

reticulata;  western,  see  C.  reticulata 
Hale,  Mrs.  Ann  B.:  letter  to,  10;  iden- 
tified, lln 
Half-breeds:  defined,  63;  hunting  party 

of,  63-65;  Kildonan  colony  massacre, 

64;  trade,  65 
Halfway  Wash,  687n 
Hall,   [James],  374,  391,  397,  398 
Hall,  L.  W.,  xix 
Halsey,  Jacob:  voucher  to,  90 
Hamilton,  James  G.,  xxxiii 
Hams  Fork,  462,  468 
Hannah   (JCF's  nurse),  xxiv 
Harebell.  See  Campanula  rotundifolia 
Harmiyo,  Osea.  See  Armijo,  Jose 
Hartweg,  Carl  Theodor,  413;  identified, 

414n 
Harvey,  Thomas  H.,  364n 
Harvey,  W.  H.,  369 
Hassler,    Ferdinand    Rudolph,    94,    136, 

138,    139;    identified,    4n,    30n;    letter 

to,  30 
Hawken,   Jacob   and   Samuel:    vouchers 

to,  42,  156,  380;  identified,  42n 
"Hawken  rifle,"  42n 
Haymarket  Gardens,  xxiiin 
Hayne,  Robert  Young,  xxix 
Hedeoma  hispida,  456 
Hedeome.  See  Hedeoma  hispida 
Hedge  nettle.  See  Stachys  palustris 
Helen  Peak,  267n 

Helgenberg,  Henry:  voucher  to,  75 
Helianthella  umflora,  287,  290,  299 
Helianthi.  282,  514 
Helianthus   maximiliani.   See   H.    maxi- 

milianus 
Helianthus  maximilianus,  287,  299 
Helianthus  petiolaris,  191,  194,  282,  287, 

299 
Hemlocks:    mountain,    see    Tsuga    mer- 

tensiana;  water,  see  Cicuta  maculata; 

western,  see  T.  heterophylla 


834 


Hemp  dogbane.  See  Apocynttm   canna- 

binum 
Hendecandra  (?)  mtdti flora.  See  Croton 

texensis 
Heracleum  lanatutn.  See  H.  maximum 
Heracleum   maximum,  296 
Her  be  salee.  See  Distich  lis  spicata 
Hernandez,  Pablo,  724,  725n;  and  Span- 
ish Trail  massacre,  677-84 
Hickories:    pignut,    see    Carya    glabra; 

shagbark,  see  C.  ovata 
Hterochloe  odorata,  398 
High  Rock  Creek,  600 
Hitchcock,  Capt.  Ethan  Allen,  9n 
Hitz,  John:  voucher  to,  105 
Hobson,  John:  voucher  to,  380 
Hog  peanut.  See  Amphicarpa  comosa 
Hogweed.  See  Conyza  canadense 
Hogwort.  See  Croton  capitatus 
Holcomb  Creek,  121  n 
Holodisctis  discolor,  448n,  764 
Hooker,    William    Jackson,     159n,    287, 

288,  394 
Hoosier  Pass,  715n 
Hope  Valley,  633n 
Hopi     (Monquis)     Indians:    and    trade 

goods,  676 
Hordeum  jubatum,  311 
Horsebrush.  See  Tetradymia  inermis 
Horse  Creek,  205,  206n,  209,  217 
Horsemint.  See  Monarda  fistulosa 
Horse  Shoe  Creek,  235 
Horseweed.  See  Conyza  canadense 
Hot  Spring  Gate,  244;   temperature  of, 

280-81 
Hot  springs:  in  Colorado,  448;  of  Great 
Salt  Lake,  500;  in  Idaho,  534,  540;  in 
Nevada,  603.  See  also   Beer   Springs; 
Steamboat  Spring 
Howitzer,    xxxix;     JCF's    requests    for, 
343,  345-46n,  351,  419;  Abert  re,  345- 
46,    349;    and    hostile    Indians,    355n, 
462;  and  War  Department,  359n,  415; 
on  1843-44  expedition,  428,  512,  533, 
577,   592,   596,   607;   abandoned,   620, 
622 
Hudson's  Ray  Company:  and  Kildonan 
colony,  64;  voucher  to,  382;  and  buf- 
falo robes,  492;  and  river  express,  572. 
See  also  Fort  Hall;   Fort  Vancouver; 
Fort  Walla  Walla 
Humbert,  John  J.:  voucher  to,  107 


Humboldt,  Alexander  von,  xxxiii,  635n 

Humboldt  River,  693n 

Hummingbird  trumpet.  See  Gilia  aggre- 

gata 
Hurst,  Decatur,  xxvii 
Hymenopappus  corimbosus.  See  H.  co- 

rymbosus 
Hymenopappus  corymbosus,  299 
Hypopeltis  obtusa.  See   Woodsia  obttisa 

latan  (steamboat) :  returns  1 843—44  ex- 
pedition, 362n;  voucher  to,  383 

Independence   Mountain,   71 2n 

Independence  Rock,  223,  236,  240,  242; 
names  on,  247;  observations  taken  at, 
273;  JCF  engraves  cross  on,  273-74n 

Indian  balsam.  See  Leptotaenia  multi- 
fida 

Indian  foods:  acorns,  648;  filagree,  649; 
kamas  root,  484;  kooyah,  475;  lizards, 
688;  pine  nuts,  614-21;  prairie  pota- 
toes, 58;  roots,  593;  salmon,  529-31; 
thisde,  494;  trout,  697;  vampah,  296, 
458,  494 

Indian  paint  brush.  See  Castilleja  linari- 
aefolia;  C.  miniata 

Indian  plantain.  See  Cacalia  tuberosa 

Indians:  and  1842  expedition,  51,  61, 
116,  174,  184,  198,  240,  283;  gifts  for, 
52,  57,  164-65,  224;  hostile,  179,  180, 
214,  221,  228-29,  236,  237,  364,  678, 
687,  720;  and  alcohol,  190,  219,  221; 
dogs,  199,  225;  pipe  smoking,  201; 
portable  lodge,  231,  242;  and  1843-44 
expedition,  430,  435,  437,  445,  462, 
474,  487-90,  496,  506,  515,  516,  530, 
532,  538,  541,  544,  557,  559,  582,  584, 
586,  598,  608-29  passim,  634,  647-52, 
664-67,  676,  695,  697,  713-14,  717, 
718,  721,  722;  snow  shoes,  628.  See 
also  Indian  foods;  individual  tribes 

Indian  turnips.  See  Psoralea  campestris; 
P.  collina 

Indigoes:  bush,  see  Amorpha  jruticosa; 
false,  see  A.  fruticosa;  white  false,  see 
Baptisia  leucantha 

Inland  Jersey  tea.  See  Ceanothus  ovattis 

Ipomea   [Ipomoea]  leptophylla,  303,  446 

Iris.  See  Iris  missouriensis 

Irish,  Charles  W.:  letter  from,  58-59; 
identified,  69n 

Iris  missouriensis,  309 


835 


Iron  plant.  See  Sideranthus  spinulosus 
Iron  Springs,  694n 
Ironweed.  See  Vernonia  jasciculata 
Ironwood.  See  Ostrya  virginiana 
Island    Lake,    263,    267n,    271;    observa- 
tions taken  at,  263 
Islue,  Phineas  C:  voucher  to,  381 
Iva  axillaris,  298 

Jaccard,  Louis,  78n 

Jaccard  &  Co.:  vouchers  to,  77-78,  108, 

382 
Jaeger,    Benedict,    129,    130;    identified, 

130n 
James,  Edwin,  287,  288,  289 
Jameson,  Mr.,  116,  121n 
James  River,  20,  50,  56,  57,  60,  67,  69n 
Janisse     (Janis),    Auguste     {voyageur): 

identified,    153n;  on    1842  expedition, 

170,  267 
Jenkins,  Edward,  and  Sons:  voucher  to, 

71 
John  Day  River,  555n,  558 
Jordan  River,  694n 
Joshua  tree.  See  Yucca  brevifolia 
"Journal    of    Lieutenant    J.    W.    Abert, 

from    Bent's    Fort    to    St.    Louis,    in 

1845,"  408n 
Juglans  cinerea,  12 In 
Juglans  nigra,  121n 
Juncus  echinatus,  310,  443 
] uncus  effusus,  663 

Juneberry.  See  Atnelanchier  alnifolia 
Juniper.  See  Juniperus  scopulorum 
funiperus  scopulorum,  309 
Juniperus  virginiana.  See  /.  scopulorum 

Kamas  root.  See  Camassia  esculenta 

Kane,  Elisha  Kent,  xxxiii 

Kansas  Indians:  provide  JCF  with  food, 
174;  intertribal  wars,  364 

Kansas  River  valley:  geology  of,  162, 
287;  described,  171-81,  432-33;  ob- 
servations taken  in,  175,  176,  285,  431; 
soil  of,  286;  floods  of,  366-67,  368n; 
re  setdements  in,  442;  1843-44  expedi- 
tion returns  through,  723-24 

Kansas  River  survey,  170-81,  286.  See 
also  1842  expedition 

Kearny,  Stephen  Watts,  xvii,  141,  144n, 
167;  letter  to,  343;  and  JCF  re  arms, 
343,  344n,  346n 


Kellogg,  Benjamin,  218n 
Kellogg,  Florentine,  218n 
Kellogg,  Philander,  218,  219n 
Kenceleur,  William,  158n 
Kenner,  Jacob:  voucher  to,   107 
Kentrophyta    montana.    See    Astragalus 

l{entrophyta 
Kentucky  coffee  tree.  See  Gymnocladus 

dioicus 
Keokuk    (Indian    chief),    12 In;    village 

of,  118 
Kern,  Benjamin  J.,  401  n 
Kern,  Edward  M.,  xxxiii;  letters  to,  401, 

415-16;  and  1845  expedition,  401,  415, 

666n;  biographical  data,  401  n;  re  pay- 
ment, 415-16 
Kern,  Richard  H.,  401n 
Kern  Lake,  666 
Kern  River,  666 

Kildonan  settlement:  massacre  at,  64 
King,  Nicholas,  MP  12 
King,  William,  Jr.:  vouchers  to,  93,  137, 

140 
King's  River,  664 
Kinnikinnick.    See    Arctostaphylos   uva- 

ursi 
Kiowa  River,  440 
Kipp,  James,  68n 
Klamath    Indians:    village    of,    586-87; 

and    shell    adornments,    587;    provide 

guides,  589-90 
Klamath  (Tlamath)  Lake,  574,  575,  585, 

590n 
Klamath  Marsh,  585n 
Klamath  River,  568,  586 
Knieskern,  Peter,  377n 
Knotweed.  See  Polygonum  aviculare 
Koeleria  cristata,  311 
Kooyah.  See   Valeriana  ciliata 
Kraft,  Christopher:   voucher   to,   105 
Krameria.  See  K.  parvifolia 
Krameria  canescens,  760 
Krameria  lanceolata.  See  K.  canescens 
Krameria  parvifolia,  413,  760 
Kruger,  A.  W.:  voucher  to,  73 

Labonte's  Camp,  237 

Lacey,   Capt.    Edgar   Martin:    death    of, 

49,  50n 
Lac  qui   Parle   (trading  post),    16,   19n, 

32,  31,  42,  48,  50,  69n;  entertainment 

at,  17 


836 


Lactuca  pulchella,  300 

Ladies'  tresses.  See  Habenaria  hyper- 
borea;  H.  lencophaea 

Lady's  thumb.  See  Polygonum  persicaria 

Laframboise,  Joseph:  vouchers  to,  35, 
36;  identified,  35n 

Laidlaw,  William,  68n 

Lajeunesse,  Basil  (i/oyageur),  279,  281; 
vouchers  to,  149,  382;  identified,  149- 
50n;  on  1842  expedition,  170,  241,  264, 
266,  267;  and  rubber  boat,  173;  on 
South  Platte  trip,  192,  197;  JCF's  com- 
panion, 232;  on  Platte  River  run,  275- 
78;  returns  at  Fort  Hall,  355n,  386n,  • 
520;  on  1843-44  expedition,  427;  with 
JCF  to  Snake  River,  453;  on  Salt 
Lake,  502;  JCF  re,  520 

Lajeunesse,  Francois  {voyageur),  150n; 
returns  at  Fort  Hall,  355n,  386n,  502, 
520;  on  1843-44  expedition,  427;  with 
JCF  to  Snake  River,  453 

Lajoie,  Louis:  voucher  to,  379 

Lake  Abert:  saline,  594-95 

Lake  Anderson,  596 

Lake  Benton,  58 

Lake  Creek,  71 3n 

Lake  Fremont,  19n 

Lake  Hendricks,  58 

Lake  Itasca,  4n 

Lake  Jessie,  69n,  NfP  9 

Lake  John,  71 3n 

Lake  Kampeska,  59 

Lake  Mountains,  604 

Lake  of  the  Four  Hills,  66 

"Lake  of  the  Scattered  Small  Wood," 
58,59 

Lake  of  the  Serpents,  66 

Lake  Pepin,  25-26,  27n,  28n 

Lake  Poinsett,  59 

Lake  Preston,  58,  59 

Lake  Shetek  complex,  18n 

Lake  Tahoe,  625n,  632n,  635 

Lake  Te-tonka-ha,  58 

Lake  Thompson,  58,  59 

Lake  Travers  trading  post:  Indian  hos- 
tilities, 13 

Lake  Whitewood,  58 

Lake  Winnipeg,  64,  572 

Lambert,  Clement  (voyageur) ,  145,  146, 
152,  278,  279,  284;  vouchers  to,  110, 
147^8,  153;  identified,  110-1  In;  on 
1842    expedition,    170;    conducts    Fort 


Laramie  group,  192-93,  215,  265,  267; 
on  Platte  River  run,  275-78 

Lamb's  quarter.  See  Chenopodium  al- 
bum 

Lanctot,  Eusebe  {voyageur),  36 

Lanoix,  Pierre,  41 

Laramie  Fork,  452n 

Laramie  Mountain,  211,  234,  244,  457 

Laramie  Plains,  455 

Laramie  Range,  234;  composition  of, 
244 

Laramie  River,  192,  243;  geology  along, 
162;  headwaters  of,  177;  observations 
taken  on,  456 

Larente,  Registe  {voyageur) :  voucher  to, 
146;  on  1842  expedition,  170n;  leaves 
expedition,  226n 

Larix  occidentalis,  549,  554 

Larkin,  Thomas  Oliver:  and  1843-44 
expedition,  653n 

Larrea  glutinosa,  671,  677,  682 

Las  Vegas,  685-86n 

Lathyrus  linearis.  See  L.  palustris 

Lathyrus  palustris,  293,  432 

Lathyrus  strictus,  662,  667 

Latourville,  Mrs.,  40 

Latulippe,  Francois  {voyageur),  68n; 
listed,  83;  identified,  83n;  vouchers  to, 
86,  152;  and  1842  expedition,  170; 
joins  JCF  on  prairies,  184 

Lea,  Albert  M.,  96,  135n;  identified,  1 14n 

Lead  plant.  See  Amorpha  canescens 

Leavenworth,  Melines  C,  130;  identified, 
131n 

Lee,  Daniel,  560n,  561  n 

Lee,  Elizabeth  Blair,  xxxiii,  xxxiv 

Lee,  Henry  {voyageur) :  and  JCF's  let- 
ters, 354-55;  returns  at  Fort  Hall, 
355n,  386n,  520;  voucher  to,  382;  shoes 
for,  385n;  on  1843-44  expedition,  427; 
with  JCF  to  Snake  River,  453 

Lee,  Jason,  560n 

Lee,  John:  and  river  disaster,  183 

Lee,  Gen.  Robert  E.:  and  Mississippi 
River  navigation,  6,  9n 

Lefevre,  Jean  B.  {voyageur):  vouchers 
to,  148,   149;  on   1842  expedition,  170 

Leonard,  F.:  voucher  to,  380 

Lepachys  columnaris.  See  Ratibida  co- 
lumnaris 

Lepidium  ruderale.  See  L.  virginicum 

Lepidium  virginicum,  291 


837 


Leptotaenia  multifida,  509 

Lespedeza  capitata,  294 

L'Esperance,  L.  B.  (foyageur) :  voucher 

to,  148;  on  1842  expedition,  170 
Lesueur  River,  17 
Lewis  and  Clark  expedition,  171n,  202n, 

522;  map  of,  MP  12 
Lewis's  fork.  See  Snake  River 
Uatris  glabrata,  IBl 
Liatris  punctata,  297 
Liatris  pycnostachya,  121n 
Liatris  scariosa,  287,  297 
Liatris  spicata,  297 
Liatris  spicata  var.  resinosa,  121n 
Liatris  squarrosa.  See  L.  glabrata 
Liberty,  Mo.,  266n 
Libocedriis  decurrens,  633 
Library  of  Congress,  xxxi,  xxxvi 
Licorice.   See   Glycyrrhiza  lepidota 
Lincoln,  Abraham:  and  JCF,  xvii 
Lindheimer,     Ferdinand     Jakob,     159n; 

Gray  re,  158-59 
Unosyris  graveolens.  See  Chrysothamnus 

graveolens 
Linosyris   viscidifiora.   See    Chrysotham- 
nus viscidifiora 
Linseeds.  See  Linum  lewisii;  L.  rigidum 
Unum  lewisii,  292,  404n,  439,  450,  458, 

473,  516,  546,  640 
Linum   peremme    [perenne].  See  L.  le- 
wisii 
Linum  rigidum,  292 
Lippia  cuneifolia,  287,  301 
Lisianthus  Russelianus.  See  Eustoma  rus- 

sellianum 
Lithospermum  gmelini,  302 
Litde   Blue   River,    I73n,    178,    179;   ob- 
servations taken  at,  181 
Little  Deschutes  River,  584 
Little  Lost  River,  558n 
Little  Malad  River,  483n 
Little  Mountain,  500n 
Little  Muddy  Creek:  geology  of,  469 
Little  Salt  Lake,  674,  694 
Little  Sandy  Creek:   observations  taken 

at,  254;  camp,  254,  273 
Little  Snake  River,  221  n,  709n 
Little    Vermillion    River,    175;    observa- 
tions taken  at,  176 
Lobelias:  see  Lobelia  spicata;  blue,  see 

L.  siphilitica 
Lobelia  siphilitica,  300 


Lobelia  spicata,  300 

Locoweeds:  see  Oxytropis  lambertii; 
woolly,  see  Astragalus  mollissimus 

Lodgepole  Creek,   194,  206n,  207-8 

Lodore  Canyon,  707n 

Long,  Stephen  H.,  202n,  271,  MP  13; 
expedition  of,  288 

Long  Point,  265n 

Long's  Peak:  sighted,  192,  202,  435,  455 

Long  Valley,  627n 

Los  Angeles.  See  Puebla  de  los  Angeles 

Loup  fork,  283;  observations  taken  at, 
284 

Lousewort.  See  Pedicularis  groenlandica 

Lovell,  Robert  P.,  xxviin 

Low,  Emory:  voucher  to,  379;  identified, 
384n 

Lucas,  Fielding,  Jr.:  voucher  to,  71 

Lucier,  A.,  146 

Liiders  (Loeders),  Friedrich  George  Ja- 
cob: identified,  347n,  570n,  571;  JCF 
re,  370;  collection  lost,  571-72 

Liiders  Bay,  570,  571,  572 

Lungwort.  See  Mertensia  ciliata 

Lupines.  See  Lupinus  leucophyllus;  L. 
sericeus 

Lupinus  leucophyllus,  294 

Lupinus  leucopsis.  See  L.  sericeus 

Lupinus  ornatus.  See  L.  sericeus 

Lupinus  sericeus,  133,  294,  433,  441,  659 

Lupton,  Lancaster  P.,  146n,  437;  identi- 
fied, 437n 

Lycopus  americanus,  301 

Lycopus  sinuatus.  See  L.  americanus 

Lygodesmia  juncea,  300 

Lyons,  Mrs.  E.:  voucher  to,  77 

Lysimachia  ciliata.  See  Steironema 
ciliatum 

McBride,  John  R.,  473n 
McCrady,  Edward,  10,  lln 
McDermott,  B.:  voucher  to,  381 
McDowell,  James:  and  1845  expedition, 

395,  396,  400,  411;  identified,  395n 
McDuell,  George:  voucher  to,  104;  iden- 
tified, 105n 
McGee,  Milton  E.,  385n,  387n;  voucher 

to,  382 
McGunegle,  George  K.:  voucher  to,  380 
Machaeranthera  coronopifolia,  298 
Machaeranthera  divaricata,   535 
Machaeranthera  pulverulenta,  298 


838 


Machaeranthera  viscosa,  298,  495 
Mackenzie,  Alexander,  207n 
McKenzie,  K.:  voucher  to,  380 
McKenzie's  Point,  265n 
McKinlay,    Archibald:    at    Fort    Walla 

Walla,' 554,  577 
McLoughlin,  John:  at  Fort  Vancouver, 

566n;  assists  JCF,  566-67;  and  Buena- 
ventura River,  574n 
McMahon,  Bernard,  522n 
McNeill,  William  G.,  xxix 
Macrorhynchus    §    (Stylopappus)    troxi- 

moides.  See  Agoseris  aurantiaca 
Magee,  A.  B.  H.,  385n;  voucher  to,  381 
Magotsu  Creek,  692n 
Magpie:  sighted,  250,  494,  510 
Malad  River,  483n,  494,  495,  515 
Malaspina   expedition,   402n 
Malheur  River   (Riviere  aux  Malheurs), 

525,  539,  656 
Mallows:  false,  see  Sphaeralcea  coccinea; 

poppy,  see  CalUrhoe  digitata 
Malva  int'olucrata.  See  CalUrhoe  involu- 

crata 
Malva  pedata.  See  CalUrhoe  digitata 
Malva  rotundifoUa.  See  Sidalcea  Candida 
Man-in-the-ground.   See   Ipomoea   lepto- 

phylla 
Manitou     Springs:     described,     447-48; 

water  analysis  of,  448;  Preuss  re,  448; 

compared  to  Beer  Springs,  481,  482 
Manual  of  the  Botany  of  the  Northern 

United  States,  1 3 1  n 
Manzanita.  See  Arctostaphylos  sp. 
Maples:    ash-leaved,    see    Negundo    ace- 

roides;   silver,  see   Acer  saccharinum; 

sugar,  see  A.  saccharum 
Maps,  xix,  94,  95,    101,    115,    120,   129, 

131,  132,  134,  162,  171,  204,  421,  472, 

508,    512,    572,    588,    601,    705,   776; 

Colton's,    of    Iowa,    92;    Colton's,    of 

Missouri,  92;  Nicollet's  1843,  MP  7-9; 
JCF's  1843  and  1845,  MP  11-14;  Abert- 

Peck,  MP    13;    virtues   and  errors   of 

1845   map,   MP    13;   Preuss,  of  route 

from  Missouri  to  Oregon,  MP  14-15; 

JCF's  1848,  MP   15-16.  See  also  Map 

Portfolio 
Marcy,   William    L.:    letter    to,   414;    re 

William   Perkins,  414-15n;   and  arms 

for   1845  expedition,  419n 
Mariposa  grant,  xvii,  xxxiv,  lln 


Markleeville  Creek,  627n,  628,  629n 
Marly      (Morly),     Michel      {voyageur): 
voucher  to,   151;  on   1842  expedition, 
170 
Marryat,  Capt.  Frederick,  20,  21  n 
Marsh  Creek,  526 
Martin,  J.  L.,  353,  360,  405 
Martin,  William  J.,  390 
Mary's  Lake,  574,  588,  600,  601,  608 
Mathews,  J.  S. :  voucher  to,  380 
Maximilian,    Prince    of    Wied-Neuwied, 

265n 
Maxwell,  Lucien  Bonaparte,  144,  174, 
201,  262,  266;  identified,  145n;  voucher 
to,  148;  on  1842  expedition,  170,  192; 
on  buffalo  hunt,  186-87;  and  Arapaho, 
198;  on  1843-44  expedition,  428;  and 
Osage  war  partv,  430-31;  re  mules, 
436,  445,  446 
Maxwell,  Maxime  (voyageur) ,  26,  27,  36, 

41,  145;  identified,  28n 
May,  William  F.  P.,  52,  68n 
May  and  Hannas:  voucher  to,  82 
Mayer,  Brantz:  voucher  to,  69 
Mayflower.  See  Penstemon  albidum 
Mead  and  Adriance:  voucher  to,  78 
Meadow  rue.  See  ThaUctrum  cornuti 
Meconella  californica,  759 
Meconella  oregana,  759 
Medicine  Bow  Peak,  457n 
Medicine  Bow  range,  457,  459n 
Medicine  Bow  River,  459 
Medicine  Creek,  56 
Meech,  S.  W.:  vouchers  to,  72,  380 
Melcher,  A.  D.:  voucher  to,  113 
Melothria.  See  Echinocystis  watsoni 
Memoirs  of  My  Life,  xxxi,  xxxii,  xxxvi 
Menard,      Louis       (voyageur),       152n; 
vouchers   to,    152,   379,   381;   on    1842 
expedition,    170;    on    1843-44   expedi- 
tion, 427;  with  JCF  to  Snake  River, 
453 
Menard,  Pierre,  145n 
Menispermum  canadense,  290 
Mentha  arvensis,  203,  301 
Mentha  canadensis.  See  M.  arvensis 
Mentzclia  nuda,  296 
Merced  River,  662 
Mersch,  Karl  Friedrich,  347n 
Mertensia  ciliata,  289,  302 
Mesquites:    common,   see   Prosopis   juli- 
flora    var.    torreyana;    screwbean,    see 


839 


p.  odorata;  screwpod,  see  P.  odorata; 
tornillo,  see  P.  odorata 

Metcalf,  A.  C:  voucher  to,  381 

Meteorological  observations:  on  1842  ex- 
pedition, 317;  on  1843-44  expedition, 
784 

Metolius  River,  582 

Michaux,  Francois  Andre,  410 

Middle  Park,  713n 

Mile  (Chippeway)  River,  27 

Milfoil.   See   Achillea  millefolium 

Milkweeds:  see  Asclepias  longifolia;  A. 
speciosa;  A.  stenophylla;  butterfly,  see 
A.  tuberosa;  horsetail,  see  A.  verticil- 
lata;  spider,  see  A.  viridis 

Milkwort.  See  Poly  gala  alba 

Mill  Creek,  619n,  620,  621 

Miller,  Alfred  Jacob,  347n 

Miller  &  Kinzpeter:  voucher  to,  73 

Mimtdus  alsinoides.  See  M.  moschatus 

Mimtdus  lewisii,  301 

Mimtdus  moschatus,  301 

Minnesota  River,  7,  14,  23,  43,  44;  head- 
waters of,  67,  69n 

Mint.  See  Mentha  arvensis 

Mirabilis  jroebelii,  446,  665 

Mirabilis  jalapa.  See  M.  jroebelii;  M. 
multi flora 

Mirabilis  multi  flora,  665 

Mirabilis  nyctaginea,  306 

Missions:  Methodist,  560,  561;  in  Cali- 
fornia, 664-76  passim 

Missouri   (state)   boundary  survey,  135n 

Missouri  River:  headwaters  of,  67,  258; 
JCF's  chart  of,  68n;  topography  of, 
98;  boat  on,  285 

Missouri  River  Valley  survey.  See  Nicol- 
let's 1839  expedition 

Mitchell,  John  W.,  xxiv,  xxv 

Mitchell,  L.  B.:  voucher  to,  110 

Mohave  Indians:  as  Indian  traders,  676; 
water  gourd  of,  676.  See  also  Cali- 
fornia Indians 

Mohave  stinkweed.  See  Cleomella  obtusi- 
folia 

Mojave  Desert,  670,  672,  759,  MP  13 

Mojave  River,  674-77;  observations 
taken  at,  675 

Mokelumne   River,  658n,   659 

Monarda  fistulosa,  301 

Monkey  flowers.  See  Mimulus  lewisii; 
M.  moschatus 


Monsoon  (steamboat) :  vouchers  to,  107, 

109 
Montmort,  Count  de,  13,  27,  44;  identi- 
fied, 19n 
Montreuil,    Louis    {voyageur) :    voucher 

to,  383;  on  1843-44  expedition,  427 
Monument  Creek,  447n 
Moore,  Baker  &  Co.:  voucher  to,  142 
Mormon  Mesa,  687n 
Mormons:  and  JCF  re  Bear  River,  516; 

and  massacre  of  emigrants,  692n 
Mormon  tea.  See  Ephedra  nevadensis 
Morning     glories:     bush,    see    Ipomoea 

leptophylla;    wild,    see    Calystegia    se- 

pium 
Mosquitoes:    as   problem,   62,    178,    190, 

231,  438,  454 
Mosquito  Range,  715n 
Mountain  balm.  See  Ceanothus  velutinus 
Mountain      dandelion.      See      Agoseris 

aurantiaca 
Mountain  heath.  See  Phyllodoce  empetri- 

formis 
Mountain  Lake.  See  Boulder  Lake 
Mountain    mahogany.    See    Cercocarpus 

parvifolius 
Mountain  Meadows,  692-94n 
Mount  Baker,  571n 
Mount  Diablo:  Carson  sights,  631 
Mount    Hood:    sighted,    551,    555,    557, 

573,  578,  579 
Mount  Jefferson,  579,  580 
Mount  Rainier  (Regnier),  570,  571,  576, 

577 
Mount  St.  Helens:  sighted,  555,  563,  577; 

eruptions  of,  570,  571  n 
Muddy  Creek,  467n,  713n 
Muddy  River,  686n 
Mule  Creek,  117 
Mulgedium     pulchellum.     See     Lactuca 

pulchella 
Miiller,  Ludolph:  vouchers  to,  91,  92,  93 
Murphy,  Jos.:  voucher  to,  380 
Murrieta,  Joaquin,  724n 
Musenium  tenui folium,  296 
Mustards:     see     Thelypodium     integri- 

folium;    T.    linearifolium;    wormseed, 

see  Erysimum  cheiranthoides 
Myosotis  glomerata,  302 

Narrow-leaved    lathyrus.    See    Lathyrus 
palustris 


840 


Nasturtium  palustre.  See  Rorippa  islan- 
dica 

National  Archives:  JCF  writings  in, 
xxxi,  45n,  168 

Naylor,  Francis:  voucher  to,  138 

N.  Devillers  &  Co.:  voucher  to,  380 

Neal,  Samuel  (voyageur) :  voucher  to, 
382;  on  1843-44  expedition,  427;  dis- 
charged at  Sutter's  Fort,  656-57 

Nebraska  River:  Indian  name  for,  283. 
See  also  Platte  River 

Negundo  acerotdes,  189,  290,  293,  433- 
34,  455 

Negundo  jraxinifoUtim.  See  N.  acerotdes 

Nena  Creek,  579 

Netherson,  A.,  Ill 

Nevins,  Allan,  99n 

Newell  Bay,  232n 

New  Helvetia.  See  Sutter's  Fort 

New  Park.  See  Colorado  Park  country 

New  York  Times,  xxivn,  xxvn,  xxvin, 
lln 

Nez  Coupee  (Indian  guide),  39 

Nez  Perce  Indians:  and  horses,  582,  584 

Nicollet,  Joseph  Nicolas,  xxx,  5,  46,  48, 
49,  52,  55,  57,  68,  84,  96,  100;  and 
JCF's  name,  xxiin,  xxxviii;  maps,  xxxi, 
4n,  19n,  60,  67,  94-95,  96,  98,  101, 
131-34,  MP  7-9;  and  1838  expedition, 
3,  12-27;  reputation,  4n;  JCF  re,  5-24 
passim;  speech  to  Sioux,  Tl-l'i\  letters 
from,  30,  97-99;  vouchers  to,  42,  73, 
75,  87,  90,  91,  92,  104,  106,  112,  113, 
114,  140,  143,  157,  378;  re  botanical 
specimens,  45;  ill  health,  45n,  83,  97, 
100,  122n;  letters  to,  47,  131-32;  and 
1839  expedition,  50-68;  offered  Sioux 
wife,  52;  re  Geyer's  finances,  97;  re 
geological  specimens,  98;  and  report, 
409 

Nicolletia,  369,  766 

Nicolletia  occidentalis,  768 

Nicollet's  1838  expedition,  12-27;  funds 
allocated  for,  3;  men  on,  7;  route  of, 
18-19n;  financial  records  of,  25-44 
passim 

Nicollet's  1839  expedition,  50-68;  men 
on,  13;  financial  records  of,  45—48, 
69-83,  85-94;  funds  allocated  for,  46- 
47;  route  of,  51,  56,  62,  66,  69n 

Nightshade.  See  Solatium  xanti 

Nopah  Range,  684n 


North  Park,  71 2n 

North  Platte  River,  439,  460,  461  n,  710, 

711n,  712,  713 
North   West  Company,   63,    537n;    and 

Kildonan  massacre,  64;  merges  with 

Hudson's  Bay  Company,  64 
Nuttall,  Thomas,  134n 
Nycterium  luteum.  See  Solanum  rostra- 

tum 

Oak  Creek  Pass,  668n 

Oaks:  see  Quercus  gamhelii;  Q.  titahen- 
sis;  black,  see  Q.  velutina;  black  jack, 
see  Q.  marilandica;  bur,  see  Q.  macro- 
carpa;  California  black,  see  Q.  \ellog- 
gii;  canyon,  see  Q.  wislizenii;  ever- 
green, see  Q.  wislizenii;  "large  black," 
see  Q.  \elloggii;  shingle,  see  Q.  im- 
hricaria;  valley,  see  Q.  lobata;  white, 
see  Q.  alba 

Obione  confertijolia.  See  Atriplex  con- 
fertifolia 

Obione  coriacea.  See  Atriplex  canescens 

Obione  rigida.  See  Atriplex  canescens 

O'Blinis,  R.  Mc:  voucher  to,  380 

Oenothera  albicaulis.  See  O.   nuttallii 

Oenothera  alyssoides.  See  O.  boothii 

Oenothera  biennis.  See  O.  strigosa 

Oenothera  boothii,  413,  766 

Oenothera  caespitosa,  413,  766 

Oenothera  canescens,  413,  765 

Oenothera  clavaejormis.  See  O.  clavi- 
jormis 

Oenothera  claviformis,  765 

Oenothera  dcltoides,  765 

Oenothera  drummondii,  296 

Oenothera  fremontii,  295,  413,  766 

Oenothera  jamesii,  765 

Oenothera  tnissouriensis.  See  O.  fremontii 

Oenothera  montana.  See  O.  caespitosa 

Oenothera  nuttallii.  288,  295,  413,  766 

Oenothera  pallida,  295,  413 

Oenothera  pcrcnnis,  765 

Oenothera  pumila.  See  O.  perennis 

Oenothera  rhombipetala,  295 

Oenothera  serrulata,  295 

Oenothera  speciosa,  296 

Oenothera  strigosa,  295 

Oenothera  trichocalyx.  See  O.  pallida 

Ogden,  Peter  Skene,  539 

Oglallah  Indians.  See  Sioux  Indians 

Ojo  de  San  Jose,  694n 


Old  Park.  See  Colorado  Park  country 

Old  plainsman.  See  Hymenopappus 
corymbosus 

Oliorie  [Obione]  canescens.  See  Atriplex 
canescens 

Onions:  see  Allium;  wild,  see  A.  textile 

Onobrychis  arenaria,  440,  441,  443,  450, 
458 

Onobrychis  sativa.  See  O.  arenaria 

Onosmodium  molle.  See  O.  occidentale 

Onosmodium  occidentale ,  302 

Opuntia  missouriensis.  See  O.  polyacan- 
tha 

Opuntia  polyacantha,  179,  181,  185,  206, 
253,  280,  296,  443,  509 

Orchids:  bog,  see  Habenaria  hyperborea, 
H.  leucophaea;  twisted  stalk,  see 
Spiranthes  cernua 

Oregon  emigrants,  xviii;  JCF  preceded 
by,  175,  178,  189;  and  hostile  Indians, 
221-22;  1843-44  expedition  and,  429- 
30,  472;  graves  of,  468;  camp  of  de- 
scribed, 473-74;  on  Snake  River,  523, 
529;  at  Fort  Vancouver,  567;  on  Co- 
lumbia River,  571 

Oregon  Trail,  171  n;  JCF  re  forts,  233; 
1843-44  expedition  on,  464-82  passim; 
observations  taken  on,  533 

Oreophila  myrtijolia.  See  Pachystima 
myrsinites 

Orobanche  fasciculata,  301 

Orthocarpus  luteus,  301 

Osage  Indians:  war  party,  430-31 

Ostrya  virginiana,  121n 

Otter  Creek,  430 

Otter  Hat  (Sioux  chief),  229 

Ovis  canadensis,  245,  265,  372,  463,  605, 
607,  708 

Owen,  Jas.  M.:  voucher  to,  381 

Oxalis  stricta,  292 

Oxen,  459,  529 

Oxybaphus  nyctaginea.  See  Mirabilis 
nyctaginea 

Oxyria  digyna,  289,  307 

Oxyria  reniformis.  See  O.  digyna 

Oxystylis,  762 

Oxystylis  lutea,  762 

Oxytropis  lambertii,  294,  456 

Oxytropis  plattensis.  See  O.  lambertii 

Pachypodium  integrifolium.  See  Thely- 
podium  integrifolium;  T.  lineari- 
folium 


Pachystima  myrsinites,  289 

Packesayso  (Sauk  Indian),  111;  voucher 
to,  110 

Page,  J.  S.:  voucher  to,  75 

Pahrump  Valley,  684n,  685n 

Paiute  Indians,  608 

Papin,  Joseph,  145n 

Papin,  Pierre  Didier,  69n,  86;  voucher 
to,  90 

Parker,  George  and  T.:  voucher  to,  92 

Parnassia.  See  Parnassia  fimbriata 

Parnassia  fimbriata,  289,  292 

Parowan  Valley,  694n 

Parrott,  Enoch  G.,  xxviin 

Parthenium    integrifolium,    12 In 

Pass  Creek,  460n 

Pathfinder  Reservoir,  275n 

Patten,  Richard,  423 

Pawnee  Creek,  429n 

Pawnee  Indians:  intertribal  wars,  176, 
179,  364,  722;  encampment,  180;  pro- 
vide JCF  with  food,  283;  as  hostiles, 
442 

Payette,  Francois,  537,  538,  543,  547 

Peale,  Titian  Ramsay,  372n 

Peas:  golden,  see  Thermopsis  montana; 
partridge,  see  Cassia  fasciculata;  yel- 
low, see  T.  montana 

Pea  vine.  See  Lathyrus  strictus 

P.  Chouteau,  Jr.,  and  Company:  vouchers 
to,  82,  87-89,  111,  154-55,  156,  378; 
letters  to,  127,  128;  re  assistance  to 
1843-44  expedition,  344 

P.  D.  Papin  Co.,  86n 

Pecan.  See  Carya  illinoensis 

Peck,  Lieut.  William  Guy,  423;  and 
1845  expedition,  397n,  MP  13;  bio- 
graphical data,  408n 

Pedicularis  groenlandica,  289,  301 

Pedicularis  surrecta.  See  P.  groenlandica 

Peery,  E.  T.:  voucher  to,  383 

Peery,  Thos.:  voucher  to,  380 

Pelican,  498 

Pelican  Lakes,  15,  20 

Pemmican:  carried  on  expeditions,  32, 
81;  preparation  methods,  64—65 

Penn,  S.,  Jr.:  voucher  to,  379 

Penstemon  albidum,  301 

Penstemon  angustifolius,  301 

Penstemon  procerus,  289,  301 

Pentstemon  albidum.  See  Penstemon 
albidum 


842 


Pentstemon  caeruleus.  See  Penstemon 
angustifolius 

Pentstemon  micranthus.  See  Penstemon 
procerus 

Pepin,  Louis:  voucher  to,  145 

Pepperwort.    See    Lepidium    virginicum 

Pei'ideridia  gairdneri,  458,  493 

Perkins,  H.  W.  K.:  assists  JCF,  561, 
575,  576;  identified,  561n 

Perkins,  William  (Chinook  Indian),  630, 
725n;  voucher  to,  383;  identified, 
388n;  Benton  re,  414;  Caspar  Wistar 
and,  417-18;  joins  1843-44  expedi- 
tion, 576,  577n 

Perrault  (Parraw,  Pera),  Alexis  {voya- 
ge w-):  voucher  to,  382;  returns  at 
Fort  Hall,  355n,  386n,  520;  on  1843- 
44  expedition,  427 

Perrault  (Parraw,  Pera),  Francois  {voya- 
geur),  387n;  voucher  to,  382;  on 
1843-44  expedition,  427;  discharged 
at  Fort  Uintah,  706n 

Perry,  Abraham,  35n 

Perry,  Mary  Ann,  35 

Personnel:  on  1842  expedition,  7,  170, 
232,  285;  names  of,  13-14,  19,  346-47, 
427;  hiring  of,  45,  50,  52,  99,  124-25, 
184,  204,  226,  568,  706;  duties  assigned, 
259,  275,  352,  432,  453,  502,  632,  643; 
on  1843-44  expedition,  343,  355,  358, 
393.  395,  396,  399,  407,  411,  422,  424, 
425,  426-28,  562,  575,  671;  discharge 
of,  519-20,  576,  656-57,  724.  See  also 
Financial  records 

Pestuca  ovina.  See  Festuca  ovina 

Petalostemon  candidtim,  294 

Petalostemon  purpureum ,  294 

Petalostemon  violacetim.  See  P.  pur- 
pureum 

Pfister,  F.  v.,  148,  151 

Phaca  astragalina.  See  Astragalus  alpinus 

Phaca  elegans.  See  Astragalus  eucosmus 

Phaca  longifolia,  294 

Phaca  §  (Orophaca)  digitata.  See  Astra- 
galus tridactylicus 

Phacelia  hastata,  302 

Phacelia  leucophylla.  See  P.  hastata 

Phacelia  sericea,  302 

Phelps,  Sumner,  121n 

Phelps,  William,  116,  119;  identified, 
121n 

Philibert,  Gabriel:  voucher  to,  380 

Phillips,  N.:  voucher  to,  380 


Phinney,  H.  E.,  xix 

Phleum  alpinum,  289,  311 

Phloxes:  see  Phlox  muscoides;  P.  pilosa; 
moss,  see  P.  hoodii 

Phlox  hoodii,  302 

Phlox  muscoides,  289,  302 

Phlox  pilosa,  302 

Photographv,  xxxiii,  145— 46n,  249 

Phyllodoce    empetriformis,    300 

Physalis  pubescens,  304 

Physalis  pumila.  See  P.  virginiana 

Physalis  virginiana,  304 

Physaria  australis,  291 

Pigott,  John  T.:  voucher  to,  379 

Pigweeds.  See  Chenopodium  album;  C. 
zosterijolium 

Pike,  Benjamin,  &  Sons:  voucher  to,  141 

Pike,  Zebulon,  41,  202n,  715n,  MP  13 

Pikes  Peak,  205,  442-43,  446,  719; 
sighted,  438,  440 

Pilinophytum  capitatum.  See  Cretan 
capitatus 

Pine  Creek,  695n 

Pines:  balsam,  see  Abies  lasiocarpa;  lim- 
ber, see  Pinus  flexilis;  nut,  see  P. 
cembra,  P.  monophylla;  red,  see  P. 
ponderosa;  rock,  see  P.  ponderosa; 
sugar,  see  P.  lambertiana;  white,  see 
P.  lambertiana;  yellow,  see  P.  pon- 
derosa 

Pinks:  alpine,  see  Silene  acaulis;  desert, 
see  Ptiloria  ramosa;  moss,  see  Phlox 
hoodii;  rock,  see  Talinum  parviflorum 

Pinto  Creek,  694n 

Pinus  (Abies)  alba.  See  Abies  concolor 

Pinus  cembra,  774 

Pinus  Colorado.  See  P.  ponderosa 

Pinus  flexilis,  309 

Pinus  lambertiana,  392,  633 

Pinus  larix.  See  Larix  occidentalis 

Pinus  monophylla.  402,  406,  413,  414, 
420,  423,  430,  614,  616,  617,  620,  621, 
627,  674,  773-74 

Pinus  monophyllus.  See  P.   monophylla 

Pinus  near  balsamea.  See  Abies  lasiocarpa 

Pinus  ponderosa,  309,  633 

Pinus  rigida.  See  P.  ponderosa 

Pinus  undetermined.  Sec  P.  flexilis 

Pirate  (steamboat),  68n 

Place-names:  JCF  re,  15,  63,  658,  696 

Plain  City,  Utah,  500n 

Plantae  Fremontiance,  41  In 

Plantago  eriopoda,  288,  305 


843 


Plantago  gnaphaloides.  See  P.  purshii 
Plantago  purshii,  305 

Plantains.  See  Plantago  eriopoda;  P.  pur- 
shii 

Platantis  occidentalis.  See  P.  racemosa 

Platanus  racemosa,  668 

Platanthera  hyperborea.  See  Habenaria 
hyperborea 

Platanthera  leucophaea.  See  Habenaria 
leucophaea 

Platte   River,    169,   450;    geology  along, 

182,  239-49  passim,  274-81  passim; 
navigation    on,    183,    283;    rapids    of, 

183,  283;  quicksand  in,  189,  282; 
warm  springs,  231,  280,  281n;  head- 
waters of,  258,  710;  river  run,  275-78; 
forded,  283-84,  454;  valley  of  de- 
scribed, 284-85 

Platte  River  survey,  170-284,  287,  288; 
to  South  Platte,  192-243;  to  Black 
Hills  country,  205-10;  to  Sweetwater 
River,  249-52;  in  Wind  River  Moun- 
tains, 254-71;  and  Nicollet's  1843  map, 
MP  9.  See  also  1842  expedition 

Plattesmouth,  Nebr.,  284n 

Ploudre,  Edward:  vouchers  to,  107,  379 

Plympton,  Maj.  Joseph,  21,  24;  identi- 
fied, 21  n 

Poa  crocata.  See  P.  palustris 

Poa  fernaldiana,  311 

Poa  laxa.  See  P.  fernaldiana 

Poa  nervata.  See  Glyceria  striata 

Poa  palustris,  311 

Poinsett,  Joel  R.,  xxvn,  xxvi,  xxix,  4,  5, 
10,  lln,  43n;  re  JCF  and  Topographi- 
cal Engineers,  4,  24;  letters  to,  12-13, 
21-24,  83-84,  94-95;  letter  from,  95 

Poinsett,  Mrs.  Joel,  13,  84 

Polanisia  trachysperma,  291 

Polemonium  caeruleum,  289,  303 

Polkinhorn,  H.,  xix 

Polkinhorn  and  Campbell:  vouchers  to, 
109,  139 

Poly  gala.  See  P.  alba 

Poly  gala  alba,  291 

Polygonum  amphibium,  307 

Polygonum  aviculare,  307 
Polygonum  persicaria,  307 
Polygonum  viviparum,  307 
Polyotus  angustifolius.  See  Asclepias  ste- 
nophylla 


Polyotus  longijolia.  See  Asclepias  longi- 

jolia 
Poly  taenia  nuttallii,  296 
Poore,  E.  W.  and  G.:  voucher  to,  380 
Poppies:  see  Arctomecon  calif  or  nica;  Cal- 
ifornia,  see  Eschscholtzia   californica; 
prickly,  see  Argemone  hispida;  purple 
poppy   mallow,   see   Callirhoe   involu- 
crata 
Populus  angustifolia,  308,  449,  455,  459, 

513,  709 
Populus  canadensis.  See  P.  sargentii 
Populus   deltoides,    179,    182,    189,    203, 

205,  233,  236,  238,  243,  252,  308 
Populus  monilifera.  See  P.  deltoides 
Populus  sargentii,  502 
Populus  tremul aides,  251,  256,  259,  260, 

308,  439,  451,  458 
Porter,  James  M.,  346n,  359n 
Portneuf  River,  482,  518,  519n,  520 
Poso  Creek,  665 
Potatoes:  prairie,  see  Psoralea  esculenta; 

swamp,  see  Sagittaria  sagittifolia 
Potentilla  anserina,  295 
Potentilla  arguta,  295 
Potentilla  diversifolia,  295 
Potentilla  fruticosa,  295 
Potentilla  gracilis,  289,  295 
Potentilla  sericea  /3  glabrata,  295 
Potra,  Benjamin  (voyageur) :  voucher  to, 

149;  on  1842  expedition,  170 
Poundcake  Rock,  440,  450 
Povertyweed.  See  Iva  axillaris 
Powder  River,  543,  544;  soil  analysis  of 

valley  of,  545 
Power,   James    (voyageur) :    voucher   to, 
381;  on  1843-^4  expedition,  427;  dis- 
charged, 453 
Prairie  dog,  433;  villages,  188,  440-41 
Prairie  du  Chien,  19n,  27,  44,  50n,  67, 

69n,  81 
Prairie  Dog  River,  434 
Prairie  mimosa.  See  Desmanthus  lepto- 

lobus 

Prairie   parsley.   See  Polytaenia   nuttallii 

Prairies:  fire  in,   18;  description  of,  56- 

57;  soil  of,   162,   178,  189;  wolves  in, 

180,    190-91;    drought   on,    235,    236, 

240.  See  also  Animals,  game;  Buffalo 

Pratte,  Bernard,  9n 

Pratte,  Chouteau  and  Company:   letters 
to,  25,  28-29,  46;  voucher  to,  37;  re 


844 


expedition  finances,  45,  46.  See  also 
American  Fur  Company 

Prele.  See  Equisetum  arvense 

Preston,  Idaho,  485 

Preuss,  Charles,  69,  73,  192,  193,  242, 
267,  283,  548,  550,  551,  617,  632,  633; 
vouchers  to,  136,  138,  140,  156,  378, 
383;  identified,  136n;  re  JCF  and  da- 
guerreotype, 146n;  gun  to,  155;  and 
Nicollet's  map,  157;  on  1842  expedi- 
tion, 170,  185,  378n;  from  journal  of, 
212-18;  and  hostile  Indians,  214-15; 
re  scenery,  250n,  256,  265,  266;  on 
Platte  River  run,  275-78;  and  Hot 
Springs,  280,  281  n;  re  JCF's  achieve- 
ment, 282;  on  1843-44  expedition, 
370,  372,  426,  595,  604,  635;  re  Mani- 
tou  Springs,  448;  to  Snake  River,  453; 
re  howitzer,  465n;  and  tobacco  root, 
475;  on  Great  Salt  Lake,  502-11;  on 
Columbia  River  trip,  561-66;  re  Cali- 
fornia, 641;  lost,  646-51;  re  Carson's 
Indian  scalping,  681n;  cartographic 
work  of,  MP  10-16 

Prevaud,  Z.:  voucher  to,  380 

Prevost,  Chs.,  41 

Price  River,  209,  704,  705n 

Prickly  pear.  See  Opuntia  polyacantha 

Primroses:  evening,  see  Oenothera  drum- 
mondii,  O.  frcmontii,  O.  nuttallii,  O. 
pallida,  O.  rhombipetala,  O.  serrulata, 
O.  strigosa;  rock,  see  Androsace  occi- 
dentalis;  white  evening,  see  O.  nut- 
tallii, O.  speciosa 

Promontory  range,  498,  505 

Prosopis    juliflora    var.    torreyana,    763 

Prosopis  odorata,  617,  682,  683,  684,  688. 
See  also  P.  jtdiflora  var.  torreyana 

Prosopis  pubescens,  368,  398,  407 

Prosopis  Strom  bulif era,  764 

Proue  (Proulx,  Proux),  Raphael  {voya- 
getir),  643;  vouchers  to,  153,  383; 
identified,  153-54n;  on  1842  expedi- 
tion, 172;  on  1843-44  expedition,  427; 
with  JCF  to  Snake  River,  453;  dis- 
charged at  Sutter's  Fort,  657n 

Provencalle,  Louis,  34 

Provo    (Timpan-ogo)    River,   698 

Provost  (Provinceau),  Etienne,  151n; 
listed,  50,  83;  identified,  68n;  voucher 
to,  87 

Prunus  melanocarpa,  455 


Prunus  serotina,  208,  232,  243,  455,  513 

Pryor,  John:  and  wife's  desertion,  xxii- 
xxiii;  biographical  data,  xxiii 

Psetidotsuga  menziesii,  448n 

Psoralea  argophylla,  294 

Psoralea  campestris,  294 

Psoralea  collina,  294 

Psoralea  esctdenta,  58,  237,  294,  430,  679 

Psoralea  floribunda,  294,  432 

Psoralea  lance olata,  294 

Psoralea  onobrychis,  115 

Psoralia  Orobrychis.  See  Psoralea  ono- 
brychis 

Pterochiton,  111-11 

Pterochiton  occidentale.  See  Atriplex 
canescens 

Ptiloria  ramosa,  299 

Puebla  de  los  Angeles,  622n,  658,  673, 
674n,  677 

Pueblo,  Colo.:  trading  post  at,  436,  71 5n, 
720;  described,  445 

Pullam's  Fork,  710 

Pulliam,  Mark  R.  C:  voucher  to,  381 

Pulmonaria  ciliata.  See  Mertensia  ciliata 

Purple  heather.  See  Phyllodoce  empetri- 
jormis 

Purshia  tridentata,  294,  402,  495,  533, 
535,  685;  as  fuel,  557 

Putty  root.  See  Am  plectrum  hyemale 

Pyramid  Lake,  598n,  605n;  water  analy- 
sis of,  605;  boulders  in,  605-7 

Quenon,  Louis,  41 

Quercus  alba,   121n.  See  also   Q.  gam- 

belii;  Q.  utahensis 
Quercus  gambelii,  434,   448n,   513,   651, 

658 
Quercus  imbricaria,  115 
Quercus  \elloggii,  646,  647,  648,  660 
Quercus  lobata,  402n 
Quercus  macrocarpa,  121n 
Quercus  marilandica,   1 1 5 
Quercus  utahensis,  51 3n 
Quercus  t'elutina,  121n 
Quercus  wislizenii,  642 
Quinine,   wild.  See  Parthenium   integri- 

folium 

Rabbit     brushes.     See     Chrysothamnus 

graveolens;  C.  viscidifiora 
Rabbits:   method  of  hunting,  624 
Raccoon    (River)    fork.  See  Dcs  Moines 

River  survey 


845 


Raft  River  (Riviere  aux  Cajeux),  526 

Rafts:  bulrush,  696 

Ragworts.  See  Senecio  fiUjolius;  S.  jre- 

tnontii;  S.  hydrophilus;  S.  rapijolius; 

S.  serra;  S.  spartioides;  S.  subnudus; 

S.  triangularis 
Randolph,  T.  Jefferson,  xxiin 
Ranunculus  cymbalaria,  290 
Ranunculus  scleratus,  290 
Rape  seed.  See  Brassica  napus 
Rati bi da  columnaris,  298 
Rattleweed.  See  Astragalus  eucosmus 
Rattlesnake  Creek,  535n 
Raymond,  Gilbert,  100 
Red  baneberry.  See  Actaea  rubra 
Red   Buttes,  214,   224,  242-43;   observa- 
tions taken  at,  224 
Red  Cedar  River,  19n 
Red  Cloud  (Sioux  chief),  147n 
Red  Creek,  705n 
Red  Dog  (Sioux  chief),  17 
Red  Lake  Peak,  625n,  632n,  635n 
Red  Pipe  Stone  Quarry,  15,  19n,  24,  58; 

described,  16,  20-21 
Red  raspberry.  See  Rubus  strigosus 
Red  River:  1845  expedition  to  survey, 

396 
Red  River  of  the  North,  52,  60,  63-64, 

65;  valley  of,  66 
Red  Rock  rapids,  120,  134 
Redstem  Ceanothus.  See  Ceanothus  san- 
guineus 
Red   Wing    (Indian    chief) :    village    of, 

28n 
Reed  (Reid),  John:  massacred,  536 
Renard,    Charles:    vouchers    to,    93-94, 

379;  identified,  94 
Renshaw,  Com.  James,  xxvii 
Renville,  Joseph,  16-17,  49,  53,  67,  69n; 

biographical  data,  19n;  presents  to,  37; 

voucher  to,  80.  See  also  Lac  qui  Parle 
Renville,   Joseph,  Jr.,    16,    19n,   33;   gun 

presented  to,  40 
Republican   River,  341,  429n;   valley  of 

described,  434-35 
Republican     and     Savannah      Evening 

Ledger,  xxxivn 
Reshiner    (Ryhiner),   Charles:   vouchers 

to,  74,  81 
Resting  Springs,  684n 
Rhodiola  integrifolia,  289 
Rhus  glabra,  500 


Rhus  trilobata,  292 

Ribes  aureum,  522 

Ribes  cereum,  208,  296,  446,  448,  455 

Ribes  echinatum ,  296 

Ribes  irriguum,  208,  288,  296,  413,  668 

Ribes  lacustre.  See  R.  montigenum;  R. 

echinatum 
Ribes  montigenum,  296 
Ribes  speciosum,  668 
Ribes  viscosissimum,  522n 
Richard,  Auguste:  voucher  to,  114 
Richard,  John,  147n 
Richards,  M.,  81 
Richardson,  J.,  32 
Richmond  Enquirer,  xxiin,  xxiiin 
Riggs,  William  H.  C:  voucher  to,   138 
Roberton,  J.,  xxv 
Robidoux,  Antoine,  706 
Robidoux,  Joseph,  III,  706n 
Robinson,  Moncure,  xxiin 
Rock  Creek,  527 
Rocky  Mountain  bee  plant.  See  Cleome 

serrulata 
Rocque  (Rock)   Augustin:  home  of,  26; 

identified,  27n;  listed,  81 
Rocque,  Louis,  41 
Rodriquez,  P.  I.,  xxviii 
Rogers,  G.  W.:  voucher  to,  380 
Rogers,  James:  voucher  to,  381;  identi- 
fied,   386n;    on     1843-44    expedition, 

428;  leaves  expedition,  452 
Rogers,    Thomas     Jefferson:     identified, 

385n;    on     1843-44    expedition,    428; 

leaves  expedition,  452 
Rolette,  Joseph,  37,  41;  listed,  40 
Rorippa  islandica,  291 
Rosa  blanda,  133,   177,  295,  535 
Rosa  foliolosa,  133,  177,  295,  535 
Ross  &  Cowe:  voucher  to,  380 
Round  Valley,  695n 
Rowena  (steamboat) :  voucher  to,  143 
Roy,  Pierre-Georges:  re  Charles  Fremon, 

xxiin 
Royal  Gorge,  71 5n 
Rubus  strigosus,  295 
Rudbecl{ia  sp.,  121n 
Rumex  hymenosepalus,  686 
Rum  ex  mexicanus,  307 
Rumex  salicifolius.  See  R.  mexicanus 
Rumex  venosus.  See  R.  hymenosepalus 
Ruelle,  Joseph  (voyageur) ,  153n;  voucher 

to,  153;  on  1842  expedition,  170 


846 


Rushes:  see  Equisetum  hyemale;  ] uncus 
echinatus;  bog,  see  J.  effusus;  bulrush, 
see  Scirpus  acutus;  tall,  see  S.  califor- 
ntctis 

Rydbergia  grandiflora,  299 

Ryes:  Canada  wild,  see  Elymus  canaden- 
sis; wild,  see  E.  virginicus 

Ryhiner,  F.,  81n 

Sacagawea  Peak,  267n 

Sacramento    River,    525,    563,    574,    575, 

61 8n,  639-49  passim,  653n;  valley  of, 

631,  642,  654 
Sage,    Rufus    B.,    183-84n,    437n;    and 

JCFs  1845  map,  MP  13 
Sagebrushes.   See  Artemisia   biennis;  A. 

campestris;   A.   cana;    A.   filijolia;   A. 

tridentata 
Sage  grouse.  See  Centrocercus  urophasi- 

anus 
Sages:   see   Artemisia  jrigida;   blue,  see 

Salvia  pitcheri;  white,  see  A.  jrigida, 

A.  hidoi'iciana,  Eurotia  lanata;  wood, 

see  Tettcrium  canadense 
Sagittaria  sagitti folia,  309 
St.^ Charles' College,  lOOn 
St.  Francisville  (Francisville),  110,  121  n 
St.  Helena,  203 
St.  Mary's  College,  100 
St.  Paul's  Church,  xxiv 
St.  Peter's  River,  7,  10,  17,  24;  rapids  on, 

135.  See  also  Minnesota  River 
St.  Thaddeus'  Church,  lln 
St.  Vrain,  Ceran,  446n 
St.  Vrain,  Marcellin:  hospitality  of,  204, 

205,  436;  identified,  204n 
St.  Vrain's  Fort.  See  Fort  St.  Vrain 
Salinas  River,  669 
Salix  interior.  308,  496 
Salix  longifolia.  See  S.  interior;  S.  mela- 

nopsis 
Salix  melanopsis,  664 
Salix  muhlenbergii.  See  S.  tristis 
Salix     myricoides.     See     S.     scouleriana 
Salix  scouleriana,  663-64 
Salix  tristis,  176,  179,  189,  194,  205,  208, 

243,  255,  308,  457-58,  459 
Salmo  clar\ii,  609-10,  622,  697 
Salmon  Falls  (Fishing  Falls),  490,  529-30 
Salmon  River  Mountains,  526,  527,  531 
Salmon  Trout  River.  See  Truckee  River 
Salorgue,  T.:  voucher  to,  380 


Salt  brush.  See  Atriplex  canescens 

Salt  Creek,  512n 

Salt  Creek  Spring,  683n 

Salt  reed-grass.  See  Spartina  cynosuroides 

Salvia  aurea.  See  S.  pitcheri 

Salvia  pitcheri,  301 

Sambucus  canadensis,   116 

San  Bernardino  Mountains,  671 

Sand  puffs.  See  Abronia  fragrans;  A. 
micrantha 

Sand  verbena.  See  Abronia  fragrans 

Sandwort.  See  Arenaria  congesta 

Sandy  Creek  (Otoe  fork),  178;  soil  of, 
287 

Sanford,  John  F.  A.,  34,  68n,  99;  re 
buffalo  robes,  492 

San  Francisco  Bay  country,  668-69 

San  Gabriel  Mountains,  671 

San  Joaquin  River,  618,  657;  valley,  659- 
70  passim;  observations  taken  in,  662 

Santa  Clara  River,  691,  692n 

Santa  Fe,  658 

Santa  Fe  Trail,  171,  173,  268;  trade  on, 
68n,  144n,  412,  445 

Sarcobatus.  See  S.  vermicularis 

Sarcobatus  vermicularis,  305,  306,  394, 
402,  403,  405,  406,  409,  509,  511,  598, 
601,  615,  708,  709,  770-72 

Sarcodes  sanguinea,  411n 

Sargent,  Thomas  Denny,  lln 

Sarpy,  John  B.,  147,  149-53  passim;  iden- 
tified, 149n 

Sarpy,  Oscar  (voyageur) :  voucher  to, 
381 ;  on  1843-44  expedition,  427;  leaves 
expedition,  436 

Sarpy,  Peter  A.:  voucher  to,  147;  iden- 
tified, 147n;  provides  boat,  284,  285 

Satureja  douglasii,  659 

Sauk  Indians,  15,  121n 

Sawtooth  Mountains,  535n 

Sayles  Canyon,  639n 

Scammon,  Lieut.  Eliakim,  98;  identified, 
99n 

Scarlet  gaura.  See  Gaura  coccinea 

Scatterwood  Lakes,  69n 

Scenes  in  the  Rocl(y  Mountains,  184n 

Schran\ia  angustata.  See  S.  microphylla 

Schrank,ia  microphylla,  433 

Schran^ia  nuttallii,  294 

Schranl{ia  uiicinata.  See  S.  nuttallii 

Scipio  Vallev,  695n 

Scirpus  acutus,  663,  664 


847 


Scirpus  calif  amicus ,  663 

Scirpus  lacustris.  See  S.  californicus 

Scorpionweeds.  See  Phacelia  hastata;  P. 

sericea 
Scott,  Capt.  Martin,  20,  2 In 
Scotts  Bluff,  217,  228n 
Scullcap.  See  Scutellaria  galericulata 
Scurf  peas:   see  Psoralea  floribunda;  P. 

lanceolata;  P.  onobrychis;  silver-leaved, 

see  P.  argophylla 
Scutellaria  galericulata,  301 
Sea  blite.  See  Suaeda  erecta 
Sea  milkwort.  See  Glaux  maritima 
Sedges:  see  Carex  atrata;  C.  festucacea; 

C.  panicea;  golden,  see  C.  aurea 
Sedum    rhodiola.    See   Rhodiola  integri- 

folia 
Semple,  Robert,  64 
Senecio  filif alius,  299 
Senecio  fremantii,  289 
Senecio  hydrophilus,  289 
Senecio  lanceolatus.  See  S.  serra 
Senecio  rapifolius,  287,  299 
Senecio  serra,  299 
Senecio  spartioides,  288 
Senecio  subnudus,  290 
Senecio  triangularis,  290 
Serviceberry.   See   Amelanchier  alnifolia 
Sesleria  dactyloides.  See  Buchlo'e  dacty- 

laides 
Sevenmile  Lakes,  457n 
Sevier  Lake,  694,  696 
Sevier  River,  686,  692,  695n,  696 
Shadberry.  See  Amelanchier  alnifolia 
Shaw,  L.  D.  W.:  voucher  to,  381 
Shearer,   Arthur:   re   Badeau's   gravesite, 

696n 
Sheep,  mountain.  See  Ovis  canadensis 
Shepherd,  A.:  voucher  to,  104 
Shepherdia  argentea.  232,  238,  288,  308, 

627 
Shepherdia  canadensis,  289,  308 
Sheyenne    (Shayen)    River,   60,   61,    65, 

69n,  MP  9 
Sholfield,  Wm.  G.:  voucher  to,  379 
Shooting    stars.    See    Dodecatheon    radi- 

catum 
Shoshone  Falls,  528,  529 
Shoshoni  Indians.  See  Snake  Indians 
Sibbaldia  procumbens,  295 
Sibille,  Jean,  146n 
Sibille,  Adams  &  Co.:   voucher  to,   146; 

trading  post,  210 


Sibley,  Henry  Hastings,  24,  33,  34,  35, 
38,  81;  trading  post,  7,  8;  dogs,  7,  8; 
identified,  9n;  assists  Nicollet's  1838 
expedition,  13;  and  hunting  trip,  17- 
18,  19n;  letters  to,  20-21,  48-49;  draft 
to,  38;  cigars  from  JCF,  49 

Sida  caccinea.  See  Sphaeralcea  coccinea 

Sidalcea  Candida,  496 

Sideranthtis  spinulosus,  298 

Sierra  Nevada  Mountains:  crossing  of, 
589-639;  pass  through,  638;  descent, 
640-51 

Silene  acaulis,  289,  292 

Silene  drummondii,  289,  292 

Silliman,  Benjamin,  159n 

Silverberry.  See  Eleagnus  argentea 

Silver  Fork,  639n 

Silverplant.  See  Erioganum   avalifolium 

Simonds,  Daniel  {voyageur),  150n; 
voucher  to,  150;  on  1842  expedition, 
170 

Simpson,  George,  436n 

Simpson,  }as.  M.:  voucher  to,  381 

Simpson,  Robert:  voucher  to,  73 

Sinclair,  John:  rancho  of,  652,  656;  iden- 
tified, 653n 

Sioux  Indians:  tribal  wars,  13n;  and 
1838  expedition,  14,  15,  16,  26;  and 
Red  Pipe  Stone  legend,  16;  hunting 
trip,  17-18;  as  hostiles,  20,  214,  221, 
225,  236-37;  and  smallpox,  20;  and 
Nicollet,  22-23;  village  described,  51- 
52;  dress  of  woman,  51;  presents  to, 
52,  57;  buffalo  "surround,"  61;  feasts 
with,  61-62,  225;  at  Fort  Laramie, 
211;  JCF  parleys  with,  224-30;  in 
Platte  River  valley,  240,  282 

Sioux  River.  See  Big  Sioux  River 

Sissiton  (Sisseton)  Sioux.  See  Sioux  In- 
dians 

Sisson,  E.:  voucher  to,  380 

Sisyrinchium  anceps,  309 

Sium   (?)  incisum.  See  Berula  erecta 

Skeleton  plant.  See  Lygodesmia  juncea 

Skunk:  eaten,  486 

Skyrocket.   See   Gilia  aggregata 

Sloan,  A.:  voucher  to,  379 

Smelows\ia  americana,  291 

Smilacina  stellata,  310,  697 

Smith,  Lieut.  E.  Kirby,  21 

Smith,  Jedediah,  473;  and  Indian -attack, 
588-89n;  and  Gallatin  map,  MP  12; 
and  George  Gibbs,  MP  13 


848 


Smith,  Thomas  L.  ("Pegleg"),  473n 

Smith's  Fork:  history  of  name,  473n 

Smith's  Fork  Creek,  473n 

Smoky  Hill  River,  429n,  431,  442,  721, 
722n 

Snakeberry.  See  Actaea  rubra 

Snake  Indians,  214,  222;  intertribal  wars, 
451,  462-63;  and  yampah,  458;  on 
Oregon  Trail,  474;  and  expedition 
flag,  475;  food  of,  475,  484,  494;  in 
Salt  Lake  area,  484,  486;  village  de- 
scribed, 489-90;  condition  of,  490.  See 
also  Snake  River  Indians 

Snake  Indian  woman:  joins  1843—44  ex- 
pedition, 453;  leaves  near  Bridger's 
fort,  468 

Snake  River,  203n,  452,  453,  483,  520, 
522^0;  geology  of,  522-23;  American 
Falls  of,  522-26;  forded,  532;  observa- 
tions taken  on,  533,  540;  valley  of, 
536n 

Snake  River  Indians:  salmon  fisheries  of, 
529-31;  described,  531-32;  condition 
of,  538-39,  544 

Snakeroot.  See  Liatris  punctata 

Snakes:  prairie,  175;  rattlesnakes,  282, 
494 

Snakeweed.  See  Gutierrezia  sarothrae 

Snowberry.  See  Symphoricarpus  occiden- 
talis 

Snow-on-the-mountain.  See  Euphorbia 
marginata 

Snow  Peak,  267 

Snow  plant.  See  Sarcodes  sanguinea 

Soapberry.  See  Shepherdia  canadensis 

Soap  Creek,  1 17 

Soap  plant.  See  Chlorogalum  pomeri- 
dianum 

Soapweed.  See  Yucca  glauca 

Soda  Lake,  677n 

Soda  Point,  483n 

Soda  Springs.  See  Beer  Springs 

Solanum  rostratum,  303 

Solanum  xanti,  672 

Soldier  Creek,  600 

Soldier  Meadows,  600 

Soldier  Summit,  705n 

Solidago  gigantea.  See  5.  serotina 

Solidago  incana,  289,  298 

Solidago  missouriensis,  298 

Solidago  rigida,  298 

Solidago  serotina,  298 

Solidago  speciosa,  298 


Solidago  virga-aurea,  298 

Solomon's  Fork,  429n 

Sorghastrum  nutans,  311 

Sorrels:  see  Rumex  mexicanus;  moun- 
tain, see  Oxyria  digyna;  sheep,  see 
Oxalis  stricta;  yellow  wood,  see  Oxalis 
stricta 

Sour-top  bilberry.  See  Vaccinium  oreo- 
philum 

Southern  Paiute  Indians:  JCF  re,  687; 
hostile,  687-88.  See  also  Digger  In- 
dians 

South  Park.  See  Colorado  Park  country 

South  Pass,  252,  710;  described,  253-54, 
463;  importance  of,  465,  553;  distances 
from,  466 

South  Platte  River,  429n,  435,  450,  452n, 
715n 

Southwest  Museum,  xxin 

Spalding,  Henry  H.,  552n 

Spanish:  in  Colorado,  203—4 

Spanish  Canyon,  679n 

Spanish  Fork  River,  695n,  697,  703,  705n 

Spanish  Peaks:  sighted,  443 

Spanish  Trail,  658,  667;  1843-44  expedi- 
tion along,  674-92;  massacre  on,  677- 
84;  observations  taken  on,  680;  camps 
on,  683,  685,  692-93 

Spartina  cynosuroides,  189,  310 

Specular ia  amplexicaulus.  See  S.  per- 
joliata 

Specularia  perfoliata,  300 

Speedwell.  See  Veronica  wormskjoldii 

Spencer,  John  Canfield,  168 

Sphaeralcea  coccinea,  293,  432,  433 

Spiderwort.  See  Tradescantia  occidentalis 

Spiraea  ariaefolia.  See  Holodiscus  dis- 
color 

Spiranthes  cernua,  309 

Spirolobium  odorata^  See  Prosopis  pu- 
bescens 

Spotted  Tail   (Sioux  chief),  147n 

Sprague,  Isaac,  41  In 

Spring  Mountains,  685n 

Spruces:  hemlock,  see  Tsuga  merten- 
siana,  T.  heteroph\lla;  white,  see  Abies 
concolor 

Spurges:  see  Chamaesyce  polygonifolia; 
Euphorbia  obtusata;  flowering,  see  E. 
corollata 

Squaw  bush.  See  Rhus  trilobata 

Squirrel,  Siberian,  265 

Squirreltail.  See  Hordeum  jubatum 


849 


Stachys  aspera.  See  S.  palustris 

Stachys  palustris,  301 

Stafftree.  See  Pachystima  myrsinites 

Stambaugh,  Samuel  C,  34n 

Stambaugh  and  Sibley:  voucher  to,  33; 
listed,  39 

Standing  Rock  Pass,  483n,  487 

Stanislaus  River,  622,  658,  660 

Stanley  a  integrifolia.  See  S.  pinnata 

Stanley  a  pinnata,  684-85 

Steamboat  Spring,  476n,  477;  water  anal- 
ysis of,  478;  temperature  of,  482 

Steironema  ciliatum,  300 

Stenosiphon  linifolius,  766 

Stenosiphon  virgatum.  See  S.  linifolius 

Stephanomeria  runcinata.  See  Ptiloria 
ratnosa 

Stevens,  Maj.  Simon,  xxivn 

Stevens  Peak,  625n,  632n,  635n 

Stewart,  Arthur,  123n,  140n;  vouchers 
to,  140,  379;  and  astronomical  ob- 
servations, 312-13 

Stewart,  Lucien:  voucher  to,  381 

Stewart,  William  Drummond,  150n, 
202n,  347n,  359n 

Stiletsi  (Indian  chief),  578 

Stockton,  Robert  F.,  xxxii 

Stockton  and  Falls  and  Co.:  voucher  to, 
72 

Stone,  W.  J.,  94,  95,  98,  131;  identified, 
95n;  re  Nicollet's  map,  131 

Stonecrop.  See  Rhodiola  integrifolia 

Strawberry.  See  Fragaria  virginiana 

Strawberry  Creek,  639n 

Strawberry  River,  704,  705n 

Strawberry  Valley,  639n,  705n 

Stromhocarpa.  See  Prosopis  pubescens 

Stump  Spring,  684n 

Suaeda  erecta,  305 

Sublette,  Milton,  473n 

Sublette,  William  L.,  21  In 

Sueda  maritima.  See  Suaeda  erecta 

Sullivan,  John  C:  survey  of,  135n 

Sulphur-flower.  See  Eriogonum  umbella- 
tum 

Sumach.  See  Rhus  glabra 

Summer  Lake,  591-92 

Summit  Meadows,  620n 

Sunflowers:  see  Helianthella  uni flora ; 
Maximilian's,  see  Helianthus  maximi- 
lianus;  prairie,  see  Helianthus  petiolaris 

Supplies:  for  1842  expedition,  10,  31-43 


passim,  69-83  passim,  85-94  passim, 
104-15  pasism,  136-58  passim,  205, 
284-85;  for  1843-44  expedition,  377- 
90  passim.  436,  462,  469,  575,  657.  See 
also  Financial  records 
Sutter,  John  Augustus:  vouchers  to,  382, 
387n;  re  1843-44  expedition,  652-53n; 
biographical  data,  654;  ships  of,  655. 
See  also  Sutter's  Fort 
Sutter's    Fort:    community    of,    654—56; 

1843-44  expedition  at,  654 
S.  V.  Farnsworth  &  Co.:  voucher  to,  380 
Sweet     goldenweed.      See     Sideranthus 

spinulosus 
Sweetwater    River:    Sioux    attacks    near, 
214,    223;    route   along,    242,    249-52; 
valley  of  described,  249,  464;  geology 
along,    249,    250,    251,    252,    288;    ob- 
servations   taken    on,    251,    253,    273, 
465;  confluence  with  Platte,  274,  275n 
Swertia.  See  Swertia  pcrennis;  S.  radiata 
Swertia  perennis,  304 
Swertia  perennis  )3  obtusa.  See  S.  perennis 
Swertia  radiata,  289,  304 
S.  Wing  &  Co.:  voucher  to,  78 
Sycamore.  See  Platanus  racemosa 
Sycan  River,  590n 
Symphoricarpus  occidentalis,  297 
Symphoricarpus  oreophilus,  297 
Symphoricarpus    vulgaris.    See   S.    oreo- 
philus 

Tabeau,  Jean  Baptiste  {voyageur),  629; 
vouchers  to  estate,  383,  388n,  390n;  on 
1843-44  expedition,  427;  killed,  689-91 

Table  Rock,  253 

Talbot,  Adelaide:  letters  to,  352-53,  354- 
55,  358-59;  identified,  353n;  JCF  and 
son  of,  354,  356-57,  362 

Talbot,  Isham,  353n 

Talbot,  Theodore:  re  JCF's  writings, 
xxxii-xxxiii;  identified,  353n;  health, 
358,  362;  and  1843-44  expedition,  378, 
426;  voucher  to,  384;  and  1845  expedi- 
tion, 396;  re  Dwight,  427n;  with  Fitz- 
patrick,  453;  re  hostile  Indians,  462- 
63n 

Talcott,  Lieut.  Col.  George:  letter  to, 
400;  re  arms  and  1845  expedition, 
419n 

Taliaferro,  Lawrence,  9n,  12,  19n,  28n; 
and  Indian  peace,  13n 


850 


Talinum  parviforum ,  292 

Talle  de  Chcnes:  observarions  taken  at, 
60 

Taos,  N.M.,  203,  204,  205;  trouble  in, 
445 

Taplin,  Charles  (I'oyageur),  602,  633; 
voucher  to,  383;  on  1843—44  expedi- 
tion, 427 

Tavlor,  Franck:  voucher  to,  92 

Taylor,  R.  O.:  voucher  to,  380 

Taylor  and  Marshall:  voucher  to,  77 

Tavlor,  Wilde,  &  Co.,  xix 

Tea  Prairie  River,  565 

Tehachapi  Creek,  666 

Tehachapi  Pass,  657n,  668n 

Tellez,  Lieut.  Col.  Rafael,  657n 

Tessier,  Francois  {voyageur) :  voucher 
to,  150;  on  1842  expeclition,  170 

Tesson  (Tissant),  Baptiste  {voyageur): 
returns  at  Fort  Hall,  355n,  386n,  520; 
voucher  to,  382;  on  1843-44  expedi- 
tion, 427 

Teton  Indians.  See  Sioux  Indians 

Tetiadymia  inermis,  133,  299 

Tetrao  europhasianus.  See  Centrocercus 
tirophasianus 

Teucrium  canadense,  301 

Thalictrum  megacarpum,  290 

T halictrum  cornuti,  290 

Thamnosma,  762 

Thamnosma  montana,  763 

Thelesperma  gracile,  299 

Thelypodium  integrijolium,  291 

Thelypodium  linearijolium,  291 

Thermopsis  montana,  288,  294,  764 

Thermopsis  rhombijolia,  764 

Thistles:  see  Cirsium  altissimum;  tall, 
see  C.  altissimum 

Thomas's  Fork,  473 

Thompson  River,  205,  454 

Thoroughwort.  See  Brickellia  grandi- 
flora 

Three  Buttes,  517,  522 

Three  Island  Crossing,  533n 

Tickseed.  See  Coreopsis  tinctoria 

Tick  trefoil.  See  Desm odium  glutino- 
sum 

Tiernan,  N.:  voucher  to,  380 

Tilghman,  Stedman  Richard,  358,  359n 

Tilia  americana,  121n 

Tillot,  H.,  89 

Timothy.  See  Phleum  alpinum 


Tintic  Valley,  697 
Tisius,  Hendrick:  voucher  to,   142 
Titcomb  Lakes,  267 
Titcomb  Valley,  267n 
Tobacco:  and  voyageurs,  183-84 
Tobacco  root.  See  Valeriana  ciliata 
Torrey,  John,  146,  230;  letters  to,  128- 
29,  133,  158-59,  161-63,  165-66,  366- 
68,    370-71,    372-74,    375-77,   391-92, 
395,    397-98,    400,    402,    403,    404-5, 
406-7,  409-11,  412-14,  418-19,  420-21, 
423;    botanical    collection    to,    128-29, 
130,  370,  373-74,  375-77,  403-5,  410- 
11;  identified,  129n;  re  JCF,  130;  let- 
ters from,  130,  341;  geological  data  to, 
161-63;  and  botanical  catalogue,  341, 
374,   404-5,   409-10,   420-21,   423;   re 
writing  preface,   287-90;   re  route  of 
1842  expedition,  286-89;  told  of  1845 
expedition,  367,  374;  and  1843-44  ex- 
pedition report,  395 
Totten,  Col.  Joseph  Gilbert,  358,  359n 
Town,    Charles,    643,    645,    646,    720; 
voucher   to,  382;  on    1843-44  expedi- 
tion, 446 
Townsend,  Charlotte  Holmes:  letter  to, 

405 
Townsend,  John  Kirk:  biographical  data, 

394n 
Tradescantia  occidentalis,   180,   185,  310 
Tradescantia   virginica.  See   T.   occiden- 
talis 
Trappers  and  traders,  183,  203,  213,  445. 

See  also  individual  names 
Traverse  des  Sioux:  described,  14 
Triplett,  Thomas:  voucher  to,  93 
Trout,  cutthroat.  See  Salmo  clarl^ii 
Troximon     parviflorum.     See     Agoseris 

glauca  var.  paruiflora 
Truckee  River,  605n,  610,  611,  615 
Tsuga  heterophylla,  633 
Tsuga  mertensiana,  633 
Tulare  (tule)-  See  Scirpus  acutus 
Tulare  Lake,  663 
Tuolumne  River,  661 
Turner,  Talton:  voucher  to,  381 
Twinpod.  See  Physaria  australis 
Two  Buttes.  See  Fremont  Butte 
Tygh  Valley,  578 

Uintah  Fort,  387n,  388n,  389n.  See  also 
Fort  Uintah 


851 


Uinta  River,  704-5n,  706n;  basin  of,  707 

Ulmus  americana,  12 In 

Ulmus  julva.  See  U.  rubra 

Ulmus  rubra,  12 In,  189,309 

Umatilla    (Umatilah)    River,    555;    JCF 

re  farming,  547;  valley  of,  547-49 
United    States   Corps   of   Topographical 

Engineers,  xxix,  xxx,  3n,  4,  6,  9n,  24, 

44,    47n.    See   also    Abert,    Col.    John 

James 
United  States  Magazine  and  Democratic 

Review,  xix 
United  States  Post  Office:  voucher  to,  92 
U.S.S.  Independence,  xxix 
U.S.S.  Natchez,  xxvi,  xxvii,  xxviii 
U.S.S.  Princeton,  360-61n 
United    States    War    Department:    and 

western   expeditions,  46,  47,   85,  346, 

351,359n,  396,  397 
University   of   Illinois:    and   JCF    letter, 

99n 
Upper  Truckee  River,  639n 
Upshur,  Abel,  361  n 
Utah  Hot  Springs,  500-501,  513n 
Utah  Indians.  See  Ute  Indians 
Utah    Lake,    512n,   694,   697,   698,   699, 

703;  on  1845  map,  MP  13 
Utah  Valley,  705n 

Ute  Indians:  as  hostiles,  445;  and  inter- 
tribal wars,  451,  718,  719;  and  Spanish 

caravans,  694,  695 

Vaccinium    myrtilloides.    See    V.    oreo- 

philum 
Vaccinium  oreophilum ,  289,  300 
Vaccinium  scoparium,  289,  300 
Vaccinium  uliginosum.  See  V.  scoparium 
Valeriana  ciliata,  402,  410,  475,  494,  515, 

697 
Valeriana  edulis.  See  V.  ciliata 
Valley  Forge   (steamboat) :   voucher   to, 

379 
Vancouver,   George:   JCF  and  his  map, 

MP  12 
Vanderburgh,  William  H.,  126n 
Van  Horseigh,  Father,  103n 
Vasquez,   Auguste    (foyageur) :    returns 
at  Fort  Hall,  355n,  386n,  520;  vouch- 
ers to,  379,  381;  on  1843-44  expedition, 
427;  with  JCF  to  Snake  River,  453 
Vauchard,  Charles,  112n.  See  also  Vessar 
Vauchard,  Louis,  1 12n.  See  also  Vessar 


Venus'  looking-glass.  See  Specularia  per- 
joliata 

Verbena  bracteata,  302 

Verbena  hastata,  302 

Verbena  stricta,  302 

Vermillion  Creek,  708,  709 

Vernonia  jasciculata,  297 

Veronica  alpina.  See  V.  wormskjoldii 

Veronica  wormsf^joldii,  289,  301 

Verot,  Jean  Marcel  Pierre  Auguste,  26; 
identified,  27-28n 

Verrot,  Joseph  {voyageur) :  voucher  to, 
382;  on  1843^4  expedition,  427;  dis- 
charged at  Sutter's  Fort,  657n 

Vervains:  see  Verbena  bracteata;  V. 
stricta;  blue,  V.  hastata 

Vesicaria  didymocarpa.  See  Physaria  aus- 
tralis 

Vessar,  111;  identified,  112n,  121n 

Vetches:  see  Astragalus  agrestis;  A.  tri- 
dactylicus;  alpine,  see  A.  alpinus;  milk, 
see  A.  gracilis,  A.  \entrophyta 

Vetchling.  See  Lathyrus  palustris 

Vtola,  398 

Violet.  See  Viola 

Virginia  Patriot,  xxiin,  xxiiin 

Virgin  River,  676,  686-87n,  690,  691 

Virgin's  bower.  See  Clematis  ligustici- 
folia 

Vitis  riparia,  293 

Voglesang,  Jacob:  voucher  to,  380 

Volcanic  rock,  527-34  passim,  536,  570, 
580,  601,  634 

Voyageurs:  on  Nicollet  expeditions,  7, 
13;  re  Coteau  des  Prairies,  15;  on  Des 
Moines  River  survey,  115;  on  1842  ex- 
pedition, 170;  and  tobacco,  183-84;  on 
Platte  River  run,  275-78;  on  1843-44 
expedition,  427.  See  also  Financial 
records 

Wade,  S.:  voucher  to,  381 

Wasatch  Mountains,  472n,  513,  592,  694, 
695,  702,  705n 

Walker,  Joseph  Reddeford,  506n,  62 In, 
622n,  657;  voucher  to,  383;  and  wagon 
train,  429n;  worms,  eating  of,  506;  re 
Great  Salt  Lake,  512;  joins  1843-44 
expedition,  693;  biographical  data, 
693n;  leaves  expedition  at  Bent's  Fort, 
720 

Walker  (Ute  chief):  JCF  and,  695-96; 
exchanges  gifts,  696 


852 


Walker  Lake,  693n 

Walker  Pass,  668n,  693n 

Walker  River,  61 3n,  624n 

Walla  Walla  River,  550,  551,  612.  See  also 

Fort  Walla  Walla;  Whitman,  Marcus 
Walsh,  J.  and  E.:  voucher  to,  381 
Ward,  Edward  C,  xxviii 
War  Department.  See  United  States  War 

Department 
Warm  Spring,  231,  232n 
Warm  Spring  Canyon,  232n 
Warm  Springs  River,  580 
Warren,  Gouverneur,  xxxivn 
Washington,  D.C.:  in  1838,  4-5 
Washo    Indians:    JCF    among,    614-30; 

snow  shoes,  619,  634;   refuse  guides, 

621 ;  salt  gatherers,  638 
Water  cress.  See  Rorippa  islandica 
Water   horehound.  See  Lycoptis  ameri- 

canus 
Water  parsnip.  See  Berula  erecta 
Water  smartweed.  See  Polygonum  am- 

phibium 
Watson,  Benjn.:  voucher  to,  380 
Watson  Mountain,  71 2n 
Waugh,  Alfred:  re  James  McDowell,  395 
Weathers,  James  M.:  voucher  to,  381 
Weber  River,  483n,  500n,  501,  513n 
Wells,  James,  25,  26;  identified,  27n 
Western  mugwort.  See  Artemisia  ludo- 

viciana 
Western   wallflower.   See  Erysimum   as- 

perum 
Weston  Creek,  483n 
West  Walker  Canyon,  623n 
West  Walker  River,  613n,  619n 
Weymouth,  George,  274 
Wharton,  Maj.  Clifton:  re  Pawnee  war 

party,  268,  728 
White,   Elijah:    and   Hastings   emigrant 

party,    xviii,    222n;    in    Oregon,    173; 

precedes  JCF,  175 
White,   Patrick    {voyageur) :   returns   at 

Fort  Hall,  355n,   386n,   520;   voucher 

to,  382;  on  1843-44  expedition,  427 
White  Crane  (Indian  chief),  578 
White  River,  209,  578,  665 
White  Rocks  Creek,  706n 
Whitman,    Marcus,    61 2n;    voucher    to, 

354;  assists   1843-44  expedition,  354n; 

wagon    train,   429-30n;   mission,   551, 

552 


Whitman,  Perrin,  429n 

Wiggins,  Oliver  P.,  227-28n 

Wild  alfalfa.  See  Psoralea  floribunda 

Wild  bean.  See  Apios  americana 

Wild  bergamot.  See  Monarda  fistulosa 

Wildcat  Canyon,  695n 

Wild   four  o'clock.  See  Mirabilis  nycta- 

ginea 
Wild  horses,  195-96,  661-62 
Wild  lettuce.  See  Lactuca  pulchella 
Wild  lilac.  See  Ceanothus  sanguineus 
Wild  roses.  See  Rosa  blanda;  R.  joliolosa 
Wild  sensitive  plants.  See  Schran\ia  mi- 

crophylla;  S.  nuttallii 
Wiley  &  Putnam,  xix 
Wilkes,  Capt.  Charles,  161n,  169;  survey 
of,    160;    expedition,   401n,    426;    JCF 
and,  562 
Wilkins,  William:  letter  to,  363-64;  iden- 
tified, 364n 
Willamette  River,  203n,  567 
Willard  (Clear)  Creek,  500,  513 
Williams,  Lemuel:  voucher  to,  114 
Williams,  Capt.  William  G.,  xxix,  xxx, 

10,  123,  124n,  424n 
Williamson,  R.  S.,  668n 
Williamson  River,  586n 
Willow    herbs.    See    Epilobium    adeno- 

caulon:  E.  angustijolium 
Willows:  see  Salix  tristis;  thicket,  see  S. 
interior;    red,   see   S.   tristis;    sandbar, 
see  S.  interior 
Wilson,  George:  voucher  to,  381 
Wind  River  Mountains:  described,  250, 
255,   256,   259-71;    route   in,   254-71; 
geology  of,  254;  ascent  of  north  pass, 
259-72;    observations    taken    in,    266, 
270,  271;  flag  planted,  270;  JCFs  loca- 
tions questioned,  271  n 
Winged  pigweed.  See  Cycloloma  atripli- 

cifolium 
Winnemucca  Lake,  632n 
Winterfat.  See  Eurotia  lanata 
Wislizenus,  Friedrich   Adolph,  372,  478 
Wistar,    Caspar:     letter    from,    417-18; 

identified,  418n 
Wolfberry.  See  Symphoricarpus  occiden- 

talis 
Wolves,  188,  190-91,  650,  663 
Wood,  John:  re  Fremon-Pryor  scandal, 
xxiii 


853 


Woodbury,  Levi:  letter  to,  95;  identified, 

95n 
Woodrow  Wilson  Peak,  267n,  270n,  271  n 
Woodsia  obtusa,  311 
Wooten,  John  A.,  xxvi 
Wormwoods.  See  Artemisia  biennis;  A. 

campestris;  A.  cana;  A.  filifolia 
Wright,  Tiery   {voyageur) :  voucher  to, 

383;  on  1843-44  expedition,  427 
Wright,  W.,  50n 
Wiirdemann,  William:  voucher  to,  138- 

39;  identified,  139n 
Wyeth,    Capt.     Nathaniel     Jarvis,     203; 

identified,  203n;  JCF  and  men  of,  445 
Wyeth's  Creek,  178 
Wyman,    Jeffries,    369,    373;    identified, 

369n 


Xervier,  453n 


Yampah.  See  Carum  gairdneri;  Peride- 

ridia  gairdneri 
Yampa  River,  458,  502,  709n 


Yankton    (Yancton,  Yanktonou)    Sioux. 

See  Sioux  Indians 
Yellow  parilla.  See  Menispermum  cana- 

dense 
Yerba  buena.  See  Satureja  douglasii 
Young,  Ewing,  63 In 
Yuccas:  see  Yucca  glauca;  tree,  see  Y. 

brevijolia 
Yucca  angustifolia.  See  Y.  glauca 
Yucca  brevijolia,  670,  671,  673 
Yucca  draconis.  See  Y.  brevifolia 
Yucca  glauca,  310 

Zantzinger,  Capt.  John  P.,  xxvii,  xxviii 

Zierlein,  Henry  L.:  voucher  to,  73 

Zigadenus  glaucus,  310 

Zindel,  Louis  {voyageur)^  50,  83;  iden- 
tified, 68n;  vouchers  to,  81,  86,  383; 
on  1843-44  expedition,  427;  and  artil- 
lery, 428;  with  JCF  to  Snake  River, 
453 

Zoological  specimens:  Abert  inquires  re, 
393 

Zygophyllum  californicum.  See  Larrea 
glutinosa 


854 


{Continued  from  front  flap) 

brief  career  as  a  major  general  in  the  Civil 
War  was  a  near  disaster. 

This  volume  is  the  first  of  a  series  of 
three  which  deal  with  the  aspect  of  Fre- 
mont's career  which  was  most  significant 
for  his  times — his  exploratory  journeys 
across  the  West. 

Volume  1  collects  Fremont's  personal 
and  public  papers  pertinent  to  his  early 
travels,  gathered  from  scores  of  sources 
throughout  the  United  States.  To  provide 
background,  the  earliest  documents  cover 
his  explorations  in  the  upper  Mississippi 
Valley  with  Joseph  N.  Nicollet.  Also  in- 
cluded are  Fremont's  official  reports  of  the 
1842  expedition  to  South  Pass  and  the 
Wind  River  Mountains  and  of  the  1843- 
44  expedition  to  Oregon  and  California. 
Vividly  reflected  in  these  accounts  is  Fre- 
mont's interest  in  botany,  natural  science, 
and  photography. 

The  accompanying  Map  Portfolio  con- 
tains the  Nicollet  map  of  1843  as  well  as 
those  which  chart  Fremont's  first  three 
western  expeditions,  and  illustrates  the 
meticulous  care  that  the  explorer  and  his 
assistant  Charles  Preuss  brought  to  map- 
making. 

Forthcoming  volumes  in  the  series  will 
be: 

Volume  2:  The  Bear  Flag  Revolt  and 
the  Court-Martial 

VoLvu^ 3 '.Travels  from  1848  to  1854 

Donald  Jackson,  the  author  of  several 
books  on  the  Mississippi  Valley  and  trans- 
Mississippi  history,  is  currently  editor  of 
The  Papers  of  George  Washington  at  the 
University  of  Virginia.  He  has  received 
numerous  honors  for  his  work,  including 
the  Western  Heritage  Award  in  1965  and 
the  Award  of  Merit  from  the  American 
Association  for  State  and  Local  History  in 
1966.  Mary  Lee  Spence  has  taught  history 
at  Southwest  Texas  State  University  and 
Pennsylvania  State  University. 


Science  in  the  British  Colonies  of  America 
by  raymond  phineas  stearns 

In  a  volume  of  remarkable  scope,  Raymond  Stearns  brings  together  for 
the  first  time  the  full  story  of  American  colonial  science  with  all  its  patrons, 
contributors,  and  contributions  to  the  "new  science"  of  the  western  world 
from  1520  to  1770.  ".  .  .  Stearns  has  produced  a  magnificent  document. 
There  is  nothing  like  it  in  all  the  literature  on  American  history  or  on  the 
history  of  science  in  America,  nor  is  there  hkely  to  be  for  some  time." 
—I.  Bernard  Cohen,  Harvard  University.    1970.  32  illus.  800  pages.  $20.00. 

Lewis  and  Clark:  Pioneering  Naturalists 
by  paul  russell  outright 

"Not  until  the  present  book  .  .  .  has  anyone  attempted  to  view  the  ex- 
pedition's contribution  to  natural  history  synoptically,  bringing  together 
all  that  is  known  about  the  aims,  observations,  and  achievements  of  the 
explorers  in  the  various  fields  of  natural  history  .  .  .  and  about  the  total 
impact  of  all  this  activity  on  the  development  of  natural  history  in  the 
United  States.  This  is  the  task  which  Paul  Outright  undertook,  and  he  has 
accomplished  it  admirably:'— Science.  ".  .  .  brings  the  participants  to  life 
in  a  remarkable  way.  .  .  .  Cutright's  addition  to  the  already  voluminous 
literature  of  the  Lewis  and  Clark  expedition  is  of  the  greatest  interest  to 
naturalists  and  ethnologists."— iVa/wr-f.  "...  a  wealth  of  scientific  detail 
in  a  style  which  will  please  historian  and  naturalist  alike."— T^e  Journal 
of  American  History.  1969.  19  illus.  506  pages.  $12.50. 

Letters  of  the  Lewis  and  Clark  Expedition 
With  Related  Documents,  1783-1854 

edited  BY  DONALD  JACKSON 

"This  man-size  volume  of  just  under  750  pages  presents  428  documents 
covering  all  aspects  of  the  great  Lewis  and  Clark  expedition :  its  authoriza- 
tion, planning,  and  outfitting;  foreign  reaction  to  it;  Indian  policy  and 
diplomacy  in  connection  with  it;  the  natural  history  resulting  from  it;  its 
financmg;  and  Lewis'  tragic  death  (with  an  opinion  as  to  whether  it  was 
murder  or  suicide)  ...  a  stupendous  ]ohr—The  American  Historical 
Review.  "Hereafter,  no  one  in  his  right  mind  will  call  himself  an  authority 
on  Lewis  and  Clark  without  having  consulted  this  volume."— T/zf  Ameri- 
can Scholar.  "...  a  fascinating  novel  in  letters  .  .  .  history  of  a  kind 
that  no  longer  happens— history  where  the  facts  are  romance."— T^d-  New 
^or\er.  1962.  17  illus.  728  pages.  $10.00. 

University  of  Illinois  Press        Urbana,  Chicago,  London 

252  00086  2